Hi,

I have a 16.5" floor mounted Delta drill press with a wobbling chuck
and need to remove it. I've tried tapping the chuck with a hammer
but it won't come off.

Before I get really agressive, I thought I better ask if this is the right
technique for getting it off or is there another way? If this is the right
way, how hard should I hit it?

Thank,
Dave.

You may want to go to your auto parts house and get a ball joint removal
fork.
If you beat too aggressively with a hammer directly on the chuck there is
risk of bending the quill shaft.

Some stores even loan them.

Don Dando



Dave Rathnow wrote in message
news:T9OCf.153678$km.37169@edtnps89...
Hi,

I have a 16.5" floor mounted Delta drill press with a wobbling chuck
and need to remove it. I've tried tapping the chuck with a hammer
but it won't come off.

Before I get really agressive, I thought I better ask if this is the right
technique for getting it off or is there another way? If this is the
right
way, how hard should I hit it?

Thank,
Dave.

Dave Rathnow wrote:

Hi,

I have a 16.5" floor mounted Delta drill press with a wobbling chuck
and need to remove it. I've tried tapping the chuck with a hammer
but it won't come off.

Before I get really agressive, I thought I better ask if this is the right
technique for getting it off or is there another way? If this is the right
way, how hard should I hit it?

Thank,
Dave.


this might help

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.w...0699f650580268

You are using the tapered key arn't you?


"Dave Rathnow" wrote in message
news:T9OCf.153678$km.37169@edtnps89...
Hi,

I have a 16.5" floor mounted Delta drill press with a wobbling chuck
and need to remove it. I've tried tapping the chuck with a hammer
but it won't come off.

Before I get really agressive, I thought I better ask if this is the right
technique for getting it off or is there another way? If this is the
right
way, how hard should I hit it?

Thank,
Dave.

I've heard this advice before. This is NOT the way to do it. Spindle and/or
chuck damage can result. There are essentially three mounting methods. (1)
Screw on. This method is often used on smaller tools. Not likely on your
Delta. Male taper on the end of the spindle that fits into a tapered hole on
the chuck. To remove these, chuck removal wedges are available. These are
slipped around the shaft just above the chuck and squeezed together with a C
clamp, driving the chuck off. This avoids the beating and damage associated
with other methods. (3) The chuck is mounted to a taper shaft that fits into
the spindle. If you have one of these, lower the spindle. There will be
slots on the side of it to take a drift key. Even after removing this from
the spindle, you will still need the chuck removal wedges to get the chuck
off of the shank. Generally though, Joe Homeowner will not want to invest
the time or the money in the proper tools (about $20.00) and will take the
expedient rout, take a hammer and beat hell out of it.

"Don Dando" wrote in message
...
You may want to go to your auto parts house and get a ball joint removal
fork.
If you beat too aggressively with a hammer directly on the chuck there is
risk of bending the quill shaft.

Some stores even loan them.

Don Dando



Dave Rathnow wrote in message
news:T9OCf.153678$km.37169@edtnps89...
Hi,

I have a 16.5" floor mounted Delta drill press with a wobbling chuck
and need to remove it. I've tried tapping the chuck with a hammer
but it won't come off.

Before I get really agressive, I thought I better ask if this is the
right
technique for getting it off or is there another way? If this is the
right
way, how hard should I hit it?

Thank,
Dave.

CW wrote:
I've heard this advice before. This is NOT the way to do it. Spindle and/or
chuck damage can result. There are essentially three mounting methods. (1)
Screw on. This method is often used on smaller tools. Not likely on your
Delta. Male taper on the end of the spindle that fits into a tapered hole on
the chuck. To remove these, chuck removal wedges are available. These are
slipped around the shaft just above the chuck and squeezed together with a C
clamp, driving the chuck off. This avoids the beating and damage associated
with other methods. (3) The chuck is mounted to a taper shaft that fits into
the spindle. If you have one of these, lower the spindle. There will be
slots on the side of it to take a drift key. Even after removing this from
the spindle, you will still need the chuck removal wedges to get the chuck
off of the shank. Generally though, Joe Homeowner will not want to invest
the time or the money in the proper tools (about $20.00) and will take the
expedient rout, take a hammer and beat hell out of it.


CW is right on target, although he left out something.

For the chuck that is mounted on a male taper - whether it's on the
spindle itself or on an arbor inserted into the spindle - there can be
other things holding the chuck on. One is an external threaded locking
ring, another is a locking screw inside the chuck. The locking screw
is likely to be LH thread.

The simplest thing to do is to get the owner's manual and/or parts
diagram to figure out what might be holding it.

The chuck removal wedges are, from MSC, $6.65 a pair.

John Martin