I have an asphalt driveway that has always looked horrible. It was put in when I built the house in 1998. It is uneven, has cracks, crators, etc.

I have an aspalt batch plant 13 miles away where I can purchase hot mix, loaded in my trailer for 70 bucks a ton. My idea would be to "skim coat" the driveway with the small aggregate hot batch.

Obviously, I don't have on eof those several ton rollers that the highway department has. The only thing I have is a concrete roller I made for my yard. (I took one of those concrete form tubes, filled it in concrete with a bar through the center as an axle, and made an angle iron fram to push it with the lawnmower.

I am assuming this would not be adequate. Would renting a vibratory compactor work? Will the hot asphalt "stick" to it just creating a mess?

I was worried about keeping the hot mix hot while traveling 13 miles. The guy at the plant said it would be no problem. Is this true? Is there some way to ensure the stuff stays hot short of purchasing expensive equipment?

I don't have the money to pay someone to tear the driveway out and start over and to be honest, contractors for the most part in my neck of the woods are not known for very good work or being reliable. (not all but most I have ran into)

I appreciate any help as I have not worked with asphault. My idea is to haul it home, shovel it on the driveway, use a rake to spread it out evenly and then compact it.

Is this going to look stupid?????

On Thu, 21 Aug 2014 05:35:23 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

I have an asphalt driveway that has always looked horrible. It was put in when
I built the house in 1998. It is uneven, has cracks, crators, etc.

I have an aspalt batch plant 13 miles away where I can purchase hot mix,
loaded in my trailer for 70 bucks a ton. My idea would be to "skim
coat" the driveway with the small aggregate hot batch.

Obviously, I don't have on eof those several ton rollers that the highway
department has. The only thing I have is a concrete roller I made for
my yard. (I took one of those concrete form tubes, filled it in
concrete with a bar through the center as an axle, and made an angle
iron fram to push it with the lawnmower.

I am assuming this would not be adequate. Would renting a vibratory
compactor work? Will the hot asphalt "stick" to it just creating a
mess?

you need water to keep it from sticking. I have not really fiqured
out the secret.


I was worried about keeping the hot mix hot while traveling 13 miles.
The guy at the plant said it would be no problem. Is this true? Is
there some way to ensure the stuff stays hot short of purchasing
expensive equipment?

It will stay hot. I had a driveway done and the mix sat in the truck
for about 2 hours while they got every thing ready.



I don't have the money to pay someone to tear the driveway out and
start over and to be honest, contractors for the most part in my neck
of the woods are not known for very good work or being reliable. (not
all but most I have ran into)

Join Angies list. $10.00/yr.


I appreciate any help as I have not worked with asphault. My idea
is to haul it home, shovel it on the driveway, use a rake to spread it
out evenly and then compact it.

Is this going to look stupid?????

If you haul one ton at a time you will end up with a bunch of small
patches. and you will see it looks like a patchwork quilt.

Blacktop has very little strength, under 2" thick it likes to peel up
in sheets. at the very least you will need to tar coat the driveway
to help it stick.


Concrete is more of a DIY project you can do a section at a time to
control cost. 6" thick and it will outlast your kids. unless your
driveway gets truck traffic.

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

How would you do concrete a section at a time?

On Thursday, August 21, 2014 5:35:23 AM UTC-7, stryped wrote:
I have an asphalt driveway that has always looked horrible. It was put in when I built the house in 1998. It is uneven, has cracks, crators, etc.



I have an aspalt batch plant 13 miles away where I can purchase hot mix, loaded in my trailer for 70 bucks a ton. My idea would be to "skim coat" the driveway with the small aggregate hot batch.



Obviously, I don't have on eof those several ton rollers that the highway department has. The only thing I have is a concrete roller I made for my yard. (I took one of those concrete form tubes, filled it in concrete with a bar through the center as an axle, and made an angle iron fram to push it with the lawnmower.



I am assuming this would not be adequate. Would renting a vibratory compactor work? Will the hot asphalt "stick" to it just creating a mess?



I was worried about keeping the hot mix hot while traveling 13 miles. The guy at the plant said it would be no problem. Is this true? Is there some way to ensure the stuff stays hot short of purchasing expensive equipment?



I don't have the money to pay someone to tear the driveway out and start over and to be honest, contractors for the most part in my neck of the woods are not known for very good work or being reliable. (not all but most I have ran into)



I appreciate any help as I have not worked with asphault. My idea is to haul it home, shovel it on the driveway, use a rake to spread it out evenly and then compact it.



Is this going to look stupid?????


Why do you constantly post questions on various topics before doing any research?

On Thursday, August 21, 2014 11:12:27 AM UTC-7, stryped wrote:
How would you do concrete a section at a time?

Why don't you go to a library and get a book on doing concrete work and then ask advanced questions here?

Do you think you have an obligation to make some effort to learn before asking idiot question after idiot question here?

The problem is my blacktop is not level. I am not sure how you eould pour separate slabs and get both dlabs even with each other.

"stryped" wrote in message
...
I have an asphalt driveway that has always looked horrible. It was put
in when I built the house in 1998. It is uneven, has cracks, crators,
etc.

I have an aspalt batch plant 13 miles away where I can purchase hot
mix, loaded in my trailer for 70 bucks a ton. My idea would be to
"skim coat" the driveway with the small aggregate hot batch.

Obviously, I don't have on eof those several ton rollers that the
highway department has. The only thing I have is a concrete roller I
made for my yard. (I took one of those concrete form tubes, filled it
in concrete with a bar through the center as an axle, and made an
angle iron fram to push it with the lawnmower.

I am assuming this would not be adequate. Would renting a vibratory
compactor work? Will the hot asphalt "stick" to it just creating a
mess?

I was worried about keeping the hot mix hot while traveling 13 miles.
The guy at the plant said it would be no problem. Is this true? Is
there some way to ensure the stuff stays hot short of purchasing
expensive equipment?

I don't have the money to pay someone to tear the driveway out and
start over and to be honest, contractors for the most part in my neck
of the woods are not known for very good work or being reliable. (not
all but most I have ran into)

I appreciate any help as I have not worked with asphault. My idea is
to haul it home, shovel it on the driveway, use a rake to spread it
out evenly and then compact it.

Is this going to look stupid?????

=======

I had some asphalt work done that included a drain which they sculpted
by hand with shovels, wide rakes and long-handled rammers. The crew
they brought in figured out to about one man per 4-5 square yards.
They moved the asphalt mix from the dump truck with wheelbarrows,
spread it with rakes and compacted it with a roller a little smaller
than a Bobcat.

It did NOT look like a job I could do satisfactorily myself without
OJT experience. A neighbor who has worked on a paving crew didn't try
do do his own asphalt walk by himself. It's hard enough to rake a
large patch of sand smooth without the time pressure.

You might look into "rap", Recycled Asphalt Product, or its ground-up
concrete equivalent. I'm told it makes a decent temporary driveway and
an excellent base for proper paving later.

stryped wrote:
The problem is my blacktop is not level. I am not sure how you eould
pour separate slabs and get both dlabs even with each other.


Not a problem. Do you want to do individual pours because of money or
lack of help or ?? This sort of determines the approach you use for the
pour(s)

Keyed slabs are poured daily all over the world. As for the blacktop not
being level, it won't be there so you can make the base level. If you
need to slope the concrete some that isn't a problem either.

--
Steve W.

stryped wrote:
The problem is my blacktop is not level. I am not sure how you eould
pour separate slabs and get both dlabs even with each other.

Not level, poured in sections. One thing I would do different would be
to add keys between the sections to keep the slabs aligned. I would also
follow my normal procedure and overbuild. I'd have re-bar and mesh as
well as fiber in the mix.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dh8OMMTW-eo
--
Steve W.

On Thu, 21 Aug 2014 21:36:11 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"stryped" wrote in message
...
I have an asphalt driveway that has always looked horrible. It was put
in when I built the house in 1998. It is uneven, has cracks, crators,
etc.

I have an aspalt batch plant 13 miles away where I can purchase hot
mix, loaded in my trailer for 70 bucks a ton. My idea would be to
"skim coat" the driveway with the small aggregate hot batch.

Obviously, I don't have on eof those several ton rollers that the
highway department has. The only thing I have is a concrete roller I
made for my yard. (I took one of those concrete form tubes, filled it
in concrete with a bar through the center as an axle, and made an
angle iron fram to push it with the lawnmower.

I am assuming this would not be adequate. Would renting a vibratory
compactor work? Will the hot asphalt "stick" to it just creating a
mess?

I was worried about keeping the hot mix hot while traveling 13 miles.
The guy at the plant said it would be no problem. Is this true? Is
there some way to ensure the stuff stays hot short of purchasing
expensive equipment?

I don't have the money to pay someone to tear the driveway out and
start over and to be honest, contractors for the most part in my neck
of the woods are not known for very good work or being reliable. (not
all but most I have ran into)

I appreciate any help as I have not worked with asphault. My idea is
to haul it home, shovel it on the driveway, use a rake to spread it
out evenly and then compact it.

Is this going to look stupid?????

=======

I had some asphalt work done that included a drain which they sculpted
by hand with shovels, wide rakes and long-handled rammers. The crew
they brought in figured out to about one man per 4-5 square yards.
They moved the asphalt mix from the dump truck with wheelbarrows,
spread it with rakes and compacted it with a roller a little smaller
than a Bobcat.

It did NOT look like a job I could do satisfactorily myself without
OJT experience. A neighbor who has worked on a paving crew didn't try
do do his own asphalt walk by himself. It's hard enough to rake a
large patch of sand smooth without the time pressure.

You might look into "rap", Recycled Asphalt Product, or its ground-up
concrete equivalent. I'm told it makes a decent temporary driveway and
an excellent base for proper paving later.

I would strongly suggest that you get a reputable driveway paver to
come in, apply a "tack coat" i.e. either an emulsion of asphalt and
water, or asphalt diluted with solvent spray, then resurface with a
fine aggregate topping mix. My driveway was reconstructed in 1997 and,
although I have some cracking in the outer couple feet I will wait
another ten years before I power wash and fill them, then have it
resurfaced. BTW, I have never had it painted (sealed).
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada

On Thursday, August 21, 2014 9:38:57 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
stryped wrote:

The problem is my blacktop is not level. I am not sure how you eould

pour separate slabs and get both dlabs even with each other.
Actually both. It is mainly just myself. Although if needed I could get my dad to help. He is older and can only do so much.

I would have to rent most of the tools.




Not a problem. Do you want to do individual pours because of money or

lack of help or ?? This sort of determines the approach you use for the

pour(s)



Keyed slabs are poured daily all over the world. As for the blacktop not

being level, it won't be there so you can make the base level. If you

need to slope the concrete some that isn't a problem either.



--

Steve W.

On Thu, 21 Aug 2014 11:12:27 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

How would you do concrete a section at a time?
That's simple - you WILL need expansion joints. Crib one section,
pour, remove cribbing- crib second section - install tentest or
whatever you are using for your expansion joint, pour second section -
repeat.

On Thu, 21 Aug 2014 16:59:18 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

The problem is my blacktop is not level. I am not sure how you eould pour separate slabs and get both dlabs even with each other.
As usual .Stryped - you are trying to do a $5000 job for 5 bux - it
ain't gonna happen. The old asphalt WILL have to come out. Anything
else is putting lipstick on a pig.

stryped wrote:
On Thursday, August 21, 2014 9:38:57 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
stryped wrote:

The problem is my blacktop is not level. I am not sure how you
eould pour separate slabs and get both dlabs even with each
other.
Actually both. It is mainly just myself. Although if needed I could
get my dad to help. He is older and can only do so much.

I would have to rent most of the tools.

OK how big an area? Got any friends?

Those numbers can dictate how large a pour you can do at once.

I have poured a 24' X 30' X 6" with just 2 helpers. Not fun but it got done.


To remove the old asphalt I would rent a wet concrete saw. Then cut a
two square foot (or so) grid through the asphalt, from end to end and
side to side. Now visit a box store or HF and buy a BIG pry bar like
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-lb-p...bar-95971.html
and a tamper like
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-x-...per-69891.html

That will allow you to remove the current stuff in easily handled
sections. Buy the boards for the forms and screeds in the slab thickness
you want. Rough cut works great, if you use normal dimensional lumber
watch your calculations and dimensions when you lay out the forms. 2X4
being 3.5 inches means you need to leave a 1/2 inch space under it for a
4" stab.

Get your re-bar and steel grid sheet. Rent the tools you need.

Dig out the asphalt in the size you want to work with, Place your forms
where you want them. Rake,fill,tamp the area as needed to make a nice
even thickness slab. Set in the reinforcement. To key the slabs I
usually use a simple method. On the form I use on the edge to be keyed I
will add a rib like this
http://www.concretenetwork.com/concr...on-joints.html

BUT I also drill holes through the rib for re-bar to come through so
that the bar stabilizes the joint. By removing the asphalt in sections
as you work you still have a usable surface. Once the edge that is keyed
is done you could backfill the hole until you want to pour the next section.

OR if you can get a few friends together you could likely pour the
entire thing in one shot. Then it's done.


--
Steve W.

On Thu, 21 Aug 2014 23:04:44 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

stryped wrote:
The problem is my blacktop is not level. I am not sure how you eould
pour separate slabs and get both dlabs even with each other.

Not level, poured in sections. One thing I would do different would be
to add keys between the sections to keep the slabs aligned. I would also
follow my normal procedure and overbuild. I'd have re-bar and mesh as
well as fiber in the mix.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dh8OMMTW-eo

Personally..Ied make up a form and pour a ****load of interlocking
pavers, then lay em out when ready.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interlo...oncrete_pavers

http://www.artfire.com/ext/shop/stud...tore/0/0/56705

http://rockmolds.com/driveway-pavers/

http://stores.ebay.com/Olde-World-Co...i.html?_fsub=9

Make up a couple dozen a day on the weekends and before long you have
enough to do your driveway


--
"Living in the United States now is like being a Tampon.
We're in a great place, just at a bad time."

Gunner Asch on Sat, 23 Aug 2014 12:50:52 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Thu, 21 Aug 2014 23:04:44 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

stryped wrote:
The problem is my blacktop is not level. I am not sure how you eould
pour separate slabs and get both dlabs even with each other.

Not level, poured in sections. One thing I would do different would be
to add keys between the sections to keep the slabs aligned. I would also
follow my normal procedure and overbuild. I'd have re-bar and mesh as
well as fiber in the mix.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dh8OMMTW-eo

Personally..Ied make up a form and pour a ****load of interlocking
pavers, then lay em out when ready.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interlo...oncrete_pavers

http://www.artfire.com/ext/shop/stud...tore/0/0/56705

http://rockmolds.com/driveway-pavers/

http://stores.ebay.com/Olde-World-Co...i.html?_fsub=9

Make up a couple dozen a day on the weekends and before long you have
enough to do your driveway

The folks who had this place before me made a bunch of them. I'm
still digging them up out of the yard.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."