Is there someone who has a Bridgeport "E" shaper head able to take some
measurements of the clapper box? I just got an "E" head, but it's
missing the clapper box. It looks simple enough to fabricate one, but it
would help to have a dimensioned sketch to work from.

Thanks,

Pete C.

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 12:23:32 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Is there someone who has a Bridgeport "E" shaper head able to take some
measurements of the clapper box? I just got an "E" head, but it's
missing the clapper box. It looks simple enough to fabricate one, but it
would help to have a dimensioned sketch to work from.

Thanks,

Pete C.

I have one, outside. The high temp was below zero AGAIN. I don't go
out in anything close to that more than a couple minutes.

I held back hoping another would step up to the plate. email me in a
month, I'll tear in down, photo, and draw it up for you.

karl

Karl Townsend wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 12:23:32 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Is there someone who has a Bridgeport "E" shaper head able to take some
measurements of the clapper box? I just got an "E" head, but it's
missing the clapper box. It looks simple enough to fabricate one, but it
would help to have a dimensioned sketch to work from.

Thanks,

Pete C.

I have one, outside. The high temp was below zero AGAIN. I don't go
out in anything close to that more than a couple minutes.

I held back hoping another would step up to the plate. email me in a
month, I'll tear in down, photo, and draw it up for you.

karl

I know the feeling, my shaper head sat on a palette in the shop for a
week until the weather warmed up a bit and I had the ambition to go out
and work on it. The cast AL belt housing had been whacked / dropped at
some point so I had to TIG weld that back together to start with. My TIG
on cast AL could use some more practice, but with a few weld / grind
cycles I got it back together.

I've found enough pictures and exploded views of the clapper box to be
able to estimate most of the dimensions and I don't think they're
particularly critical. I've started fabrication from a chunk of 1144 bar
leftover from my lathe change gear project (only piece on hand large
enough). I'm working on the mount to the ram currently, the socket is
bored and I'm figuring the size and alignment of the two setscrew and
pin combos to attach it.

It looks like the toolbits are 5/8" shank, so I'm looking at about 7/8"
wide and estimating about 1 1/8" high for the toolholder part. The
spring is the part I haven't quite figured out yet, I'm not sure if I'll
be able to make a flat spring like they apparently used, or perhaps use
a coil spring with a piece of shim stock over it as a substitute.

What do you have for lube in the gearcase? I see they spec Mobil 600W
which is still available in expensive 5gal or larger. From what I see it
doesn't have a "common" cross reference as it's listed for steam
applications, but it seems outside of steam compatibility it's
essentially SAE 140 weight gear oil so I'm wondering if some good Mobil
synthetic gear oil would be an adequate substitute that I can get in
quart size.

On Fri, 28 Feb 2014 10:45:42 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:

What do you have for lube in the gearcase? I see they spec Mobil 600W
which is still available in expensive 5gal or larger. From what I see it
doesn't have a "common" cross reference as it's listed for steam
applications, but it seems outside of steam compatibility it's
essentially SAE 140 weight gear oil so I'm wondering if some good Mobil
synthetic gear oil would be an adequate substitute that I can get in
quart size.

See Mobil SHC 634. It's a synthetic commonly used in small worm gears.
McMaster carries it in quarts.

********************

Mobil Oil SHC 634 Synthetic Gear Oil, ISO 460, SAE 140, 32-oz
In stock1-5 Each $19.43
6 or more $17.49

2158K66

You ordered this on 10/07/09.


Extreme pressure additives strengthen these nondetergent oils to
withstand heavy loads found in gears and gear-drive systems. These
products are compliant under all state VOC rules in effect on October
1, 2010.

Mobil SHC—These oils are synthetic, which means less frequent oil
changes. Color is orange.ISO Grade 460
SAE Grade 140
AGMA Grade 7
Saybolt Seconds Universal @ 100° F 2,236
Additional Specifications 32 oz.
Mobil SHC 634
MSDS

--
Ned Simmons

On Fri, 28 Feb 2014 10:45:42 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Karl Townsend wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 12:23:32 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Is there someone who has a Bridgeport "E" shaper head able to take some
measurements of the clapper box? I just got an "E" head, but it's
missing the clapper box. It looks simple enough to fabricate one, but it
would help to have a dimensioned sketch to work from.

Thanks,

Pete C.

I have one, outside. The high temp was below zero AGAIN. I don't go
out in anything close to that more than a couple minutes.

I held back hoping another would step up to the plate. email me in a
month, I'll tear in down, photo, and draw it up for you.

karl

I know the feeling, my shaper head sat on a palette in the shop for a
week until the weather warmed up a bit and I had the ambition to go out
and work on it. The cast AL belt housing had been whacked / dropped at
some point so I had to TIG weld that back together to start with. My TIG
on cast AL could use some more practice, but with a few weld / grind
cycles I got it back together.

I've found enough pictures and exploded views of the clapper box to be
able to estimate most of the dimensions and I don't think they're
particularly critical. I've started fabrication from a chunk of 1144 bar
leftover from my lathe change gear project (only piece on hand large
enough). I'm working on the mount to the ram currently, the socket is
bored and I'm figuring the size and alignment of the two setscrew and
pin combos to attach it.

It looks like the toolbits are 5/8" shank, so I'm looking at about 7/8"
wide and estimating about 1 1/8" high for the toolholder part. The
spring is the part I haven't quite figured out yet, I'm not sure if I'll
be able to make a flat spring like they apparently used, or perhaps use
a coil spring with a piece of shim stock over it as a substitute.

What do you have for lube in the gearcase? I see they spec Mobil 600W
which is still available in expensive 5gal or larger. From what I see it
doesn't have a "common" cross reference as it's listed for steam
applications, but it seems outside of steam compatibility it's
essentially SAE 140 weight gear oil so I'm wondering if some good Mobil
synthetic gear oil would be an adequate substitute that I can get in
quart size.

I'd use regular gear oil. its just a low speed low pressure gear box.

The clapper design is particularly poor on this slotter. doesn't want
to snap back. then it will grab. I've found i need to "Help" it by
prying with a screw driver while its moving if you just want to shave
another thou or two. A MUCH stronger spring design would really help.

That's the reason it lives outside, not a very good tool. Still, its
the only answer sometimes. there's just not enough room in the heated
shop for all my toys.

Karl

On Fri, 28 Feb 2014 12:38:35 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


What do you have for lube in the gearcase? I see they spec Mobil 600W
which is still available in expensive 5gal or larger. From what I see it
doesn't have a "common" cross reference as it's listed for steam
applications, but it seems outside of steam compatibility it's
essentially SAE 140 weight gear oil so I'm wondering if some good Mobil
synthetic gear oil would be an adequate substitute that I can get in
quart size.

I'd use regular gear oil. its just a low speed low pressure gear box.


The 600W is specified because of the worm reducer in the gearbox. 600W
used to be available in quarts from Boston Gear, not sure if it still
is. BG rates their boxes slightly higher when SHC634 is used instead
of 600W.

But I agree, for the limited use these shapers typically see, gear oil
is probably fine. The number of times I actually used the thing, and
the high price they fetch, is why mine went on ebay years ago.

--
Ned Simmons

Karl Townsend wrote:


snippage


I'd use regular gear oil. its just a low speed low pressure gear box.

The clapper design is particularly poor on this slotter. doesn't want
to snap back. then it will grab. I've found i need to "Help" it by
prying with a screw driver while its moving if you just want to shave
another thou or two. A MUCH stronger spring design would really help.

That's the reason it lives outside, not a very good tool. Still, its
the only answer sometimes. there's just not enough room in the heated
shop for all my toys.

Karl

Odd, it looks like a pretty simple and foolproof design. Have you
dismantled it to see if there is a chip jamming it up or something?

Ned Simmons wrote:

On Fri, 28 Feb 2014 12:38:35 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


What do you have for lube in the gearcase? I see they spec Mobil 600W
which is still available in expensive 5gal or larger. From what I see it
doesn't have a "common" cross reference as it's listed for steam
applications, but it seems outside of steam compatibility it's
essentially SAE 140 weight gear oil so I'm wondering if some good Mobil
synthetic gear oil would be an adequate substitute that I can get in
quart size.

I'd use regular gear oil. its just a low speed low pressure gear box.


The 600W is specified because of the worm reducer in the gearbox. 600W
used to be available in quarts from Boston Gear, not sure if it still
is. BG rates their boxes slightly higher when SHC634 is used instead
of 600W.

But I agree, for the limited use these shapers typically see, gear oil
is probably fine. The number of times I actually used the thing, and
the high price they fetch, is why mine went on ebay years ago.

--
Ned Simmons

Think Mobil 1 75W-140 synthetic gear oil will do the trick?

On Fri, 28 Feb 2014 14:41:21 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Ned Simmons wrote:

On Fri, 28 Feb 2014 12:38:35 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


What do you have for lube in the gearcase? I see they spec Mobil 600W
which is still available in expensive 5gal or larger. From what I see it
doesn't have a "common" cross reference as it's listed for steam
applications, but it seems outside of steam compatibility it's
essentially SAE 140 weight gear oil so I'm wondering if some good Mobil
synthetic gear oil would be an adequate substitute that I can get in
quart size.

I'd use regular gear oil. its just a low speed low pressure gear box.


The 600W is specified because of the worm reducer in the gearbox. 600W
used to be available in quarts from Boston Gear, not sure if it still
is. BG rates their boxes slightly higher when SHC634 is used instead
of 600W.

But I agree, for the limited use these shapers typically see, gear oil
is probably fine. The number of times I actually used the thing, and
the high price they fetch, is why mine went on ebay years ago.

--
Ned Simmons

Think Mobil 1 75W-140 synthetic gear oil will do the trick?

Assuming the worm gear in the shaper is bronze, maybe not. It looks
like the EP additives in Mobil1 are not compatible with copper base
alloys.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ow_Metals.aspx

Most industrial gear oils, e.g. Mobilgear, are OK with copper alloys.
I think this is less likely to be true with automotive gear oils.

--
Ned Simmons

On Fri, 28 Feb 2014 14:25:54 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Karl Townsend wrote:


snippage


I'd use regular gear oil. its just a low speed low pressure gear box.

The clapper design is particularly poor on this slotter. doesn't want
to snap back. then it will grab. I've found i need to "Help" it by
prying with a screw driver while its moving if you just want to shave
another thou or two. A MUCH stronger spring design would really help.

That's the reason it lives outside, not a very good tool. Still, its
the only answer sometimes. there's just not enough room in the heated
shop for all my toys.

Karl

Odd, it looks like a pretty simple and foolproof design. Have you
dismantled it to see if there is a chip jamming it up or something?

I would disagree on design after using it. The point of the cutter is
way ahead of the clapper arangement as opposed to right angles like
you see on a regular shaper. NOT a rigid idea. Good for reaching down
inside though like cutting a key way inside a bore.

Of course, i'm the kind of guy that don't like R8 tooling either. Not
rigid enough.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:

On Fri, 28 Feb 2014 14:25:54 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Karl Townsend wrote:


snippage


I'd use regular gear oil. its just a low speed low pressure gear box.

The clapper design is particularly poor on this slotter. doesn't want
to snap back. then it will grab. I've found i need to "Help" it by
prying with a screw driver while its moving if you just want to shave
another thou or two. A MUCH stronger spring design would really help.

That's the reason it lives outside, not a very good tool. Still, its
the only answer sometimes. there's just not enough room in the heated
shop for all my toys.

Karl

Odd, it looks like a pretty simple and foolproof design. Have you
dismantled it to see if there is a chip jamming it up or something?

I would disagree on design after using it. The point of the cutter is
way ahead of the clapper arangement as opposed to right angles like
you see on a regular shaper. NOT a rigid idea.

Technically it isn't really. It has a side port you can put a toolbit in
at a right angle like a conventional shaper and that point should be
quite rigid. Also the length of the tool you install out front is up to
you so that could be pretty short as well.

Good for reaching down
inside though like cutting a key way inside a bore.

Yes, good when it's not a through hole so you can't broach it. Also good
for (and why I wanted one) internal splines and gears.


Of course, i'm the kind of guy that don't like R8 tooling either. Not
rigid enough.

R8 works fine for me, but so does the 40 taper on the CNC mill. I adapt
to whatever tools I have available, whether it's mills in the shop, or
the stove in the kitchen.