I'm making a brake line tee for a guy , and I'm having trouble getting an
acceptable fit . The compression nut reads 9.85 mm x 1mm pitch . The tap I
bought measures 10.10 ... and the nut is way too loose in the threads . I'm
wondering if this auto parts store tap is oversize ... might be OK for a
bolt thru a bracket or something , but I'm not using it for this job . Is
there a chart somewhere that has size data for taps by fit class ?

--
Snag

"BQ340" wrote in message
...
On 7/13/2013 9:39 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I'm making a brake line tee for a guy , and I'm having trouble getting an
acceptable fit . The compression nut reads 9.85 mm x 1mm pitch . The tap
I
bought measures 10.10 ... and the nut is way too loose in the threads .
I'm
wondering if this auto parts store tap is oversize ... might be OK for a
bolt thru a bracket or something , but I'm not using it for this job . Is
there a chart somewhere that has size data for taps by fit class ?


Flare fittings should be used for brakes, not compression.

For a brake line its typically a double flare fitting. Also, amazingly
enough if you "over" tighten them they are more likely to leak then if you
under tighten them.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"BQ340" wrote in message
...
On 7/13/2013 9:39 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I'm making a brake line tee for a guy , and I'm having trouble getting
an
acceptable fit . The compression nut reads 9.85 mm x 1mm pitch . The tap
I
bought measures 10.10 ... and the nut is way too loose in the threads .
I'm
wondering if this auto parts store tap is oversize ... might be OK for a
bolt thru a bracket or something , but I'm not using it for this job .
Is
there a chart somewhere that has size data for taps by fit class ?


Flare fittings should be used for brakes, not compression.

For a brake line its typically a double flare fitting. Also, amazingly
enough if you "over" tighten them they are more likely to leak then if you
under tighten them.



Yup , double flare . Looks like a little button on the end of the tube . Bob
, you wouldn't happen to know the included angle of that seat ? Looks like a
135 deg bit would work , 118 is too steep , it only contacts on the outside
edge . I can grind a bit to any angle in between , thanks to my neighbor .
He gave me a DD500X for fixing his older model.

--
Snag

On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 21:51:42 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"BQ340" wrote in message
...
On 7/13/2013 9:39 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I'm making a brake line tee for a guy , and I'm having trouble getting
an
acceptable fit . The compression nut reads 9.85 mm x 1mm pitch . The tap
I
bought measures 10.10 ... and the nut is way too loose in the threads .
I'm
wondering if this auto parts store tap is oversize ... might be OK for a
bolt thru a bracket or something , but I'm not using it for this job .
Is
there a chart somewhere that has size data for taps by fit class ?


Flare fittings should be used for brakes, not compression.

For a brake line its typically a double flare fitting. Also, amazingly
enough if you "over" tighten them they are more likely to leak then if you
under tighten them.



Yup , double flare . Looks like a little button on the end of the tube . Bob
, you wouldn't happen to know the included angle of that seat ? Looks like a
135 deg bit would work , 118 is too steep , it only contacts on the outside
edge . I can grind a bit to any angle in between , thanks to my neighbor .
He gave me a DD500X for fixing his older model.
Do yourself and the guy and just BUY the proper brake line tee.
Standard Weatherhead fittings are readilly available.

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 21:51:42 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"BQ340" wrote in message
...
On 7/13/2013 9:39 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I'm making a brake line tee for a guy , and I'm having trouble getting
an
acceptable fit . The compression nut reads 9.85 mm x 1mm pitch . The
tap
I
bought measures 10.10 ... and the nut is way too loose in the threads
.
I'm
wondering if this auto parts store tap is oversize ... might be OK for
a
bolt thru a bracket or something , but I'm not using it for this job .
Is
there a chart somewhere that has size data for taps by fit class ?


Flare fittings should be used for brakes, not compression.

For a brake line its typically a double flare fitting. Also, amazingly
enough if you "over" tighten them they are more likely to leak then if
you
under tighten them.



Yup , double flare . Looks like a little button on the end of the tube .
Bob
, you wouldn't happen to know the included angle of that seat ? Looks like
a
135 deg bit would work , 118 is too steep , it only contacts on the
outside
edge . I can grind a bit to any angle in between , thanks to my neighbor .
He gave me a DD500X for fixing his older model.
Do yourself and the guy and just BUY the proper brake line tee.
Standard Weatherhead fittings are readilly available.

Wasn't my idea to begin with ... this is for my neighbor , done a fair bit
of work for him already . I do want this done right .
--
Snag

On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 22:06:03 -0400, BQ340
wrote:

On 7/13/2013 9:39 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I'm making a brake line tee for a guy , and I'm having trouble getting an
acceptable fit . The compression nut reads 9.85 mm x 1mm pitch . The tap I
bought measures 10.10 ... and the nut is way too loose in the threads . I'm
wondering if this auto parts store tap is oversize ... might be OK for a
bolt thru a bracket or something , but I'm not using it for this job . Is
there a chart somewhere that has size data for taps by fit class ?


Flare fittings should be used for brakes, not compression.


MikeB

Correct


--
""Almost all liberal behavioral tropes track the impotent rage of small
children. Thus, for example, there is also the popular tactic of
repeating some stupid, meaningless phrase a billion times" Arms for
hostages, arms for hostages, arms for hostages, it's just about sex, just
about sex, just about sex, dumb,dumb, money in politics,money in
politics, Enron, Enron, Enron. Nothing repeated with mind-numbing
frequency in all major news outlets will not be believed by some members
of the populace. It is the permanence of evil; you can't stop it." (Ann
Coulter)

Terry Coombs laid this down on his screen :
wrote in message
...
On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 21:51:42 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"BQ340" wrote in message
...
On 7/13/2013 9:39 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I'm making a brake line tee for a guy , and I'm having trouble getting
an
acceptable fit . The compression nut reads 9.85 mm x 1mm pitch . The
tap
I
bought measures 10.10 ... and the nut is way too loose in the threads .
I'm
wondering if this auto parts store tap is oversize ... might be OK for
a
bolt thru a bracket or something , but I'm not using it for this job .
Is
there a chart somewhere that has size data for taps by fit class ?


Flare fittings should be used for brakes, not compression.

For a brake line its typically a double flare fitting. Also, amazingly
enough if you "over" tighten them they are more likely to leak then if
you
under tighten them.



Yup , double flare . Looks like a little button on the end of the tube .
Bob
, you wouldn't happen to know the included angle of that seat ? Looks like
a
135 deg bit would work , 118 is too steep , it only contacts on the outside
edge . I can grind a bit to any angle in between , thanks to my neighbor .
He gave me a DD500X for fixing his older model.
Do yourself and the guy and just BUY the proper brake line tee.
Standard Weatherhead fittings are readilly available.

Wasn't my idea to begin with ... this is for my neighbor , done a fair bit
of work for him already . I do want this done right .

Get a Professonal made part.
If you make it and fails you will never hear the end of it.

I had an amature job fail on a brake line 400 miles into the desert
north east of Alice Springs a long time ago. That was no fun. :/
Fortunatly there is very very little traffic out there.
And I had to make a new flare with a Phillips screwdriver to get
home!!!
It had been made by the previous owner,before I bought the vehicle. :-Z

--
John G

On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 21:51:42 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"BQ340" wrote in message
...
On 7/13/2013 9:39 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I'm making a brake line tee for a guy , and I'm having trouble getting
an
acceptable fit . The compression nut reads 9.85 mm x 1mm pitch . The tap
I
bought measures 10.10 ... and the nut is way too loose in the threads .
I'm
wondering if this auto parts store tap is oversize ... might be OK for a
bolt thru a bracket or something , but I'm not using it for this job .
Is
there a chart somewhere that has size data for taps by fit class ?


Flare fittings should be used for brakes, not compression.

For a brake line its typically a double flare fitting. Also, amazingly
enough if you "over" tighten them they are more likely to leak then if you
under tighten them.



Yup , double flare . Looks like a little button on the end of the tube .

Nope, that's a compression fitting. http://tinyurl.com/pz9afu5
25 seconds into the video, you'll see the brass sleeve/button.


Bob
, you wouldn't happen to know the included angle of that seat ? Looks like a
135 deg bit would work , 118 is too steep , it only contacts on the outside
edge . I can grind a bit to any angle in between , thanks to my neighbor .
He gave me a DD500X for fixing his older model.

Terry, I'm not sure you have the proper picture on the task.
Here's the picture for a double flared tube. The seat must be a
convex shape, not concave, so the bit will have to have a cone rather
than a point. http://tinyurl.com/o9mxa69 And the nut will have an
inner flare to the tip to mate the bell of the tube.

When I was wrenching, I only saw the Japanese style, not the Euro.
http://tinyurl.com/pnhvbdo Which is the one you're working on?

--
However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results.
-- Sir Winston Churchill

The ISO/DIN or bubble flare in your link below and I have an M10 x 1 tap
, but it cuts an oversize thread - which is the whole problem here. The
vehicle in question is a Ford Mustang , late model 90-something , I think
.. He's putting a different master cylinder on because he's using a rear axle
with disc brakes , and I'm also making an adapter plate to mount that .
--
Snag

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message When I
was wrenching, I only saw the Japanese style, not the Euro.
http://tinyurl.com/pnhvbdo Which is the one you're working on?

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
The ISO/DIN or bubble flare in your link below and I have an M10 x 1 tap
, but it cuts an oversize thread - which is the whole problem here. The
vehicle in question is a Ford Mustang , late model 90-something , I
think . He's putting a different master cylinder on because he's using a
rear axle with disc brakes , and I'm also making an adapter plate to mount
that .
--
Snag

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message When
I was wrenching, I only saw the Japanese style, not the Euro.
http://tinyurl.com/pnhvbdo Which is the one you're working on?



The most likely cause of the problem is that it might not be a metric
fitting but a more common 3/8-24 fitting.
The 3/8 has a smaller major diameter but is so close to the metric that the
3/8-24 will thread into a 10-1 (not suggested) but the 10-1 will not fit
into a 3/8-24 hole.

Paul K. Dickman

"Paul K. Dickman" wrote in message
...

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
The ISO/DIN or bubble flare in your link below and I have an M10 x 1
tap , but it cuts an oversize thread - which is the whole problem here.
The vehicle in question is a Ford Mustang , late model 90-something , I
think . He's putting a different master cylinder on because he's using a
rear axle with disc brakes , and I'm also making an adapter plate to
mount that .
--
Snag

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
When I was wrenching, I only saw the Japanese style, not the Euro.
http://tinyurl.com/pnhvbdo Which is the one you're working on?



The most likely cause of the problem is that it might not be a metric
fitting but a more common 3/8-24 fitting.
The 3/8 has a smaller major diameter but is so close to the metric that
the 3/8-24 will thread into a 10-1 (not suggested) but the 10-1 will not
fit into a 3/8-24 hole.

Paul K. Dickman

Nope , this fitting will not thread into a 3/8-24 hole - though some of
the lines he's got must , as the proportioning valve he brought down has 2
holes threaded for it - but those also have the conical flare seat , not the
concave "bubble" flare .
The nut that goes in this fitting on the 1 piece of tube I've got for
fitment purposes measures 9.85MM and the thread profile matches exactly
with the tap I bought . As I said , this tap cuts an oversize thread , it
measures 10.11 MM . Allowing for truncated thread profiles , the tap should
measure just UNDER 10MM , not over .
--
Snag
Thanks to Larry Jacques , I now have a drawing
of the flare , and can match the seat profile exactly .

On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 22:44:02 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 21:51:42 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"BQ340" wrote in message
...
On 7/13/2013 9:39 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I'm making a brake line tee for a guy , and I'm having trouble getting
an
acceptable fit . The compression nut reads 9.85 mm x 1mm pitch . The
tap
I
bought measures 10.10 ... and the nut is way too loose in the threads
.
I'm
wondering if this auto parts store tap is oversize ... might be OK for
a
bolt thru a bracket or something , but I'm not using it for this job .
Is
there a chart somewhere that has size data for taps by fit class ?


Flare fittings should be used for brakes, not compression.

For a brake line its typically a double flare fitting. Also, amazingly
enough if you "over" tighten them they are more likely to leak then if
you
under tighten them.



Yup , double flare . Looks like a little button on the end of the tube .
Bob
, you wouldn't happen to know the included angle of that seat ? Looks like
a
135 deg bit would work , 118 is too steep , it only contacts on the
outside
edge . I can grind a bit to any angle in between , thanks to my neighbor .
He gave me a DD500X for fixing his older model.
Do yourself and the guy and just BUY the proper brake line tee.
Standard Weatherhead fittings are readilly available.

Wasn't my idea to begin with ... this is for my neighbor , done a fair bit
of work for him already . I do want this done right .

You are working on a "critical safety system". "doing it right"
generally involves using parts made and certified for the purpose..

Buy the correct brake part for thr job. This coming from a licenced
auto mechanic and a machinist.

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 08:14:41 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

The ISO/DIN or bubble flare in your link below and I have an M10 x 1 tap
, but it cuts an oversize thread - which is the whole problem here. The
vehicle in question is a Ford Mustang , late model 90-something , I think
. He's putting a different master cylinder on because he's using a rear axle
with disc brakes , and I'm also making an adapter plate to mount that .
All the parts for the disk brake conversion are available from Ford
and the aftermarket as that setup was used on the Ford Explorer. As
well as on the Mustang Cobra. Being a Ford it will be a standard
double flare - NOT a bubble flare - unless he is using brake parts
from a Euro Ford, perhaps.

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 11:11:46 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:
As I said , this tap cuts an oversize thread , it
measures 10.11 MM . Allowing for truncated thread profiles , the tap should
measure just UNDER 10MM , not over .

The OD of normal taps is always larger than the nominal thread size.
Look at the thread tables in Machinery's Handbook and you'll see that
the major diameter of internal threads is the nominal diameter with a
plus tolerance.

10.11 mm OD for an M10x1 tap sounds about right.

--
Ned Simmons

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 11:11:46 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:


"Paul K. Dickman" wrote in message
...

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
The ISO/DIN or bubble flare in your link below and I have an M10 x 1
tap , but it cuts an oversize thread - which is the whole problem here.
The vehicle in question is a Ford Mustang , late model 90-something , I
think . He's putting a different master cylinder on because he's using a
rear axle with disc brakes , and I'm also making an adapter plate to
mount that .
--
Snag

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
When I was wrenching, I only saw the Japanese style, not the Euro.
http://tinyurl.com/pnhvbdo Which is the one you're working on?



The most likely cause of the problem is that it might not be a metric
fitting but a more common 3/8-24 fitting.
The 3/8 has a smaller major diameter but is so close to the metric that
the 3/8-24 will thread into a 10-1 (not suggested) but the 10-1 will not
fit into a 3/8-24 hole.

Paul K. Dickman

Nope , this fitting will not thread into a 3/8-24 hole - though some of
the lines he's got must , as the proportioning valve he brought down has 2
holes threaded for it - but those also have the conical flare seat , not the
concave "bubble" flare .
The nut that goes in this fitting on the 1 piece of tube I've got for
fitment purposes measures 9.85MM and the thread profile matches exactly
with the tap I bought . As I said , this tap cuts an oversize thread , it
measures 10.11 MM . Allowing for truncated thread profiles , the tap should
measure just UNDER 10MM , not over .
--
Snag
Thanks to Larry Jacques , I now have a drawing
of the flare , and can match the seat profile exactly .


There is something wrong with your logic. Ignoring the question of
what fits what I believe you will find that all taps cut a larger
diameter then the nominal size of the fastener. If, for example you
were to thread a 10 mm rod in the lathe and than drilled and tapped a
10 mm hole the male rod, being 10 mm must be threaded into a larger
hole, otherwise it would be an interference fit and damned hard to
screw in :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 08:14:41 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

The ISO/DIN or bubble flare in your link below and I have an M10 x 1 tap
, but it cuts an oversize thread - which is the whole problem here. The
vehicle in question is a Ford Mustang , late model 90-something , I think
. He's putting a different master cylinder on because he's using a rear axle
with disc brakes , and I'm also making an adapter plate to mount that .

I think Clare has the best idea. Just buy the tee. Much
safer/easier.

--
However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results.
-- Sir Winston Churchill

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 14:01:44 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 08:14:41 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

The ISO/DIN or bubble flare in your link below and I have an M10 x 1 tap
, but it cuts an oversize thread - which is the whole problem here. The
vehicle in question is a Ford Mustang , late model 90-something , I think
. He's putting a different master cylinder on because he's using a rear axle
with disc brakes , and I'm also making an adapter plate to mount that .
All the parts for the disk brake conversion are available from Ford
and the aftermarket as that setup was used on the Ford Explorer. As
well as on the Mustang Cobra. Being a Ford it will be a standard
double flare - NOT a bubble flare - unless he is using brake parts
from a Euro Ford, perhaps.

Right. Bag o' worms, wot?

--
However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results.
-- Sir Winston Churchill

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 17:41:33 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 14:01:44 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 08:14:41 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

The ISO/DIN or bubble flare in your link below and I have an M10 x 1 tap
, but it cuts an oversize thread - which is the whole problem here. The
vehicle in question is a Ford Mustang , late model 90-something , I think
. He's putting a different master cylinder on because he's using a rear axle
with disc brakes , and I'm also making an adapter plate to mount that .
All the parts for the disk brake conversion are available from Ford
and the aftermarket as that setup was used on the Ford Explorer. As
well as on the Mustang Cobra. Being a Ford it will be a standard
double flare - NOT a bubble flare - unless he is using brake parts
from a Euro Ford, perhaps.

Right. Bag o' worms, wot?
Mabee he's putting non-Ford brakes on it - like Jag?? Real easy to
fix that too. Put a flare adapter fitting on the Euro part and use SAE
double flare lines trhoughout. And BUY the proper part. You cannot
afford to make them at the price they sell for.

Just DO NOT screw around with brakes without knowing EXACTLY what you
are doing.

On 2013-07-14, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 11:11:46 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:
As I said , this tap cuts an oversize thread , it
measures 10.11 MM . Allowing for truncated thread profiles , the tap should
measure just UNDER 10MM , not over .

The OD of normal taps is always larger than the nominal thread size.
Look at the thread tables in Machinery's Handbook and you'll see that
the major diameter of internal threads is the nominal diameter with a
plus tolerance.

And what you want to do to check the diameter of threads is to
measure the *pitch* diameter -- which is usually done on male threads
with three wires of selected diameter down in the Vs -- two on one side
and one on the other. This measures the surfaces which should mate.

The drawing below should be viewed with a fixed pitch font like
Courier. Any of the variable pitch fonts will cause the later
(right-most) parts to fall out of alignment on your screen.

~~~~~~~~~~
| | -- micrometer anvil
|________|
/\ /\()/\()/\ /\ /\ /\ /\
/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \



/\ /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ /\
/ \/ \/()\/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \
_________
| |
| | -- Micrometer spindle
| |
~~~~~~~

The above shows how the wires should be placed, but they should be a
little bigger than shown (limits of ASCII graphics), so they project
above the thread crests. Then your micrometer can give you a precise
reading which can be converted to the pitch diameter by subtraction of a
constant which you look up.

10.11 mm OD for an M10x1 tap sounds about right.

Yes -- this makes a sharp V crest to the internal threads, to
clear any reasonable shape of crest on the mating threads -- Sharp,
flat-crested, or rounded.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"John B." wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 11:11:46 -0500, "Terry Coombs"

wrote:
"Paul K. Dickman" wrote in message
...


There is something wrong with your logic. Ignoring the question of
what fits what I believe you will find that all taps cut a larger
diameter then the nominal size of the fastener. If, for example you
were to thread a 10 mm rod in the lathe and than drilled and tapped
a
10 mm hole the male rod, being 10 mm must be threaded into a larger
hole, otherwise it would be an interference fit and damned hard to
screw in :-)
John B.

This one is easy to check. I measured a few 1/4" and 3/8" Greenfield
taps at 0.0015 - 0.002" under the nominal diameter.
jsw

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 22:06:34 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 11:11:46 -0500, "Terry Coombs"

wrote:
"Paul K. Dickman" wrote in message
...


There is something wrong with your logic. Ignoring the question of
what fits what I believe you will find that all taps cut a larger
diameter then the nominal size of the fastener. If, for example you
were to thread a 10 mm rod in the lathe and than drilled and tapped
a
10 mm hole the male rod, being 10 mm must be threaded into a larger
hole, otherwise it would be an interference fit and damned hard to
screw in :-)
John B.

This one is easy to check. I measured a few 1/4" and 3/8" Greenfield
taps at 0.0015 - 0.002" under the nominal diameter.
jsw


Then they won't cut proper UN threads. The *minimum* major diameter
for 1/4-20 UNC - 2B (and 1B & 3B) internal threads is .2500. Likewise,
the minimum major diameter is equal to the nominal size (the basic
major diameter) for all 1B, 2B and 3B UN threads. Similar rules apply
to metric threads.

--
Ned Simmons

On 15 Jul 2013 01:54:04 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-07-14, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 11:11:46 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:
As I said , this tap cuts an oversize thread , it
measures 10.11 MM . Allowing for truncated thread profiles , the tap should
measure just UNDER 10MM , not over .

The OD of normal taps is always larger than the nominal thread size.
Look at the thread tables in Machinery's Handbook and you'll see that
the major diameter of internal threads is the nominal diameter with a
plus tolerance.

And what you want to do to check the diameter of threads is to
measure the *pitch* diameter -- which is usually done on male threads
with three wires of selected diameter down in the Vs -- two on one side
and one on the other. This measures the surfaces which should mate.

The drawing below should be viewed with a fixed pitch font like
Courier. Any of the variable pitch fonts will cause the later
(right-most) parts to fall out of alignment on your screen.

~~~~~~~~~~
| | -- micrometer anvil
|________|
/\ /\()/\()/\ /\ /\ /\ /\
/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \



/\ /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ /\
/ \/ \/()\/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \
_________
| |
| | -- Micrometer spindle
| |
~~~~~~~

The above shows how the wires should be placed, but they should be a
little bigger than shown (limits of ASCII graphics), so they project
above the thread crests. Then your micrometer can give you a precise
reading which can be converted to the pitch diameter by subtraction of a
constant which you look up.

10.11 mm OD for an M10x1 tap sounds about right.

Yes -- this makes a sharp V crest to the internal threads, to
clear any reasonable shape of crest on the mating threads -- Sharp,
flat-crested, or rounded.

But not sharp sharp, just sharper than the mating external thread.

--
Ned Simmons

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 22:06:34 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

This one is easy to check. I measured a few 1/4" and 3/8" Greenfield
taps at 0.0015 - 0.002" under the nominal diameter.
jsw


Then they won't cut proper UN threads. The *minimum* major diameter
for 1/4-20 UNC - 2B (and 1B & 3B) internal threads is .2500.
Likewise,
the minimum major diameter is equal to the nominal size (the basic
major diameter) for all 1B, 2B and 3B UN threads. Similar rules
apply
to metric threads.
Ned Simmons

OK, many of my tools were second-hand. New 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 taps
measured 3-4 thousandths over nominal size.
jsw

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 08:14:41 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote:

The ISO/DIN or bubble flare in your link below and I have an M10 x 1
tap , but it cuts an oversize thread - which is the whole problem here.
The vehicle in question is a Ford Mustang , late model 90-something , I
think . He's putting a different master cylinder on because he's using
a rear axle with disc brakes , and I'm also making an adapter plate to
mount that .

Forgive me if someone's already said this, but -- you can buy all sorts
of brake line fittings. Tee joints should be easy. Even adapters from
one thread type to another should be available if you're willing to mail-
order from performance shops.

It's not something that I'd want to mess with, other than perhaps to put
a notch in my gun-butt: "been there, done that, look ain't I competent."
Having done it I'd probably never do it again.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On Mon, 15 Jul 2013 14:52:49 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 08:14:41 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote:

The ISO/DIN or bubble flare in your link below and I have an M10 x 1
tap , but it cuts an oversize thread - which is the whole problem here.
The vehicle in question is a Ford Mustang , late model 90-something , I
think . He's putting a different master cylinder on because he's using
a rear axle with disc brakes , and I'm also making an adapter plate to
mount that .

Forgive me if someone's already said this, but -- you can buy all sorts
of brake line fittings. Tee joints should be easy. Even adapters from
one thread type to another should be available if you're willing to mail-
order from performance shops.

It's not something that I'd want to mess with, other than perhaps to put
a notch in my gun-butt: "been there, done that, look ain't I competent."
Having done it I'd probably never do it again.


Most..not all perhaps..but MOST NAPA stores have those adapters (at
least in my area) and their website lists all kinds

http://www.napaonline.com/




--
""Almost all liberal behavioral tropes track the impotent rage of small
children. Thus, for example, there is also the popular tactic of
repeating some stupid, meaningless phrase a billion times" Arms for
hostages, arms for hostages, arms for hostages, it's just about sex, just
about sex, just about sex, dumb,dumb, money in politics,money in
politics, Enron, Enron, Enron. Nothing repeated with mind-numbing
frequency in all major news outlets will not be believed by some members
of the populace. It is the permanence of evil; you can't stop it." (Ann
Coulter)

On Mon, 15 Jul 2013 08:34:06 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 22:06:34 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

This one is easy to check. I measured a few 1/4" and 3/8" Greenfield
taps at 0.0015 - 0.002" under the nominal diameter.
jsw


Then they won't cut proper UN threads. The *minimum* major diameter
for 1/4-20 UNC - 2B (and 1B & 3B) internal threads is .2500.
Likewise,
the minimum major diameter is equal to the nominal size (the basic
major diameter) for all 1B, 2B and 3B UN threads. Similar rules
apply
to metric threads.
Ned Simmons

OK, many of my tools were second-hand. New 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 taps
measured 3-4 thousandths over nominal size.
jsw


You got me wondering so I checked some taps I have that are old enough
to be marked "USS." USS threads were superseded by National (NC, NF)
threads, which were in turn replaced by UN threads. Even the USS taps
I checked, which happened to be Greenfield taps, had a major dia
greater than nominal. What I don't know, because the oldest MH I have
covers only National threads in detail, is whether the USS standard
insisted on the oversize major dia.

--
Ned Simmons

On Mon, 15 Jul 2013 14:52:49 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 08:14:41 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote:

The ISO/DIN or bubble flare in your link below and I have an M10 x 1
tap , but it cuts an oversize thread - which is the whole problem here.
The vehicle in question is a Ford Mustang , late model 90-something , I
think . He's putting a different master cylinder on because he's using
a rear axle with disc brakes , and I'm also making an adapter plate to
mount that .

Forgive me if someone's already said this, but -- you can buy all sorts
of brake line fittings. Tee joints should be easy. Even adapters from
one thread type to another should be available if you're willing to mail-
order from performance shops.

It's not something that I'd want to mess with, other than perhaps to put
a notch in my gun-butt: "been there, done that, look ain't I competent."
Having done it I'd probably never do it again.
Most of the required fittings are in stock at any reasonably
equipped auto parts store. I can get just about anything from any of
5 or 6 within 5 miles by just walking in - and overnight from any of
them.

On Mon, 15 Jul 2013 13:09:35 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 15 Jul 2013 14:52:49 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Sun, 14 Jul 2013 08:14:41 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote:

The ISO/DIN or bubble flare in your link below and I have an M10 x 1
tap , but it cuts an oversize thread - which is the whole problem here.
The vehicle in question is a Ford Mustang , late model 90-something , I
think . He's putting a different master cylinder on because he's using
a rear axle with disc brakes , and I'm also making an adapter plate to
mount that .

Forgive me if someone's already said this, but -- you can buy all sorts
of brake line fittings. Tee joints should be easy. Even adapters from
one thread type to another should be available if you're willing to mail-
order from performance shops.

It's not something that I'd want to mess with, other than perhaps to put
a notch in my gun-butt: "been there, done that, look ain't I competent."
Having done it I'd probably never do it again.


Most..not all perhaps..but MOST NAPA stores have those adapters (at
least in my area) and their website lists all kinds

http://www.napaonline.com/

NAPA always has the best price on custom made hydraulic hoses, too.

--
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to
succeed is more important than any one thing.
-- Abraham Lincoln