"It is not so necessary any more that I know the answers, but now I desire
more to understand the questions."

Went out and pulled the wire harness loose from my trailer wheels. Blocked
it up. Took off the wheels and hubs. All looked good. Hooked up juice to
it, but nothing moved. Did find out how hot shorted 12v. wires get, and how
fast.

Aha, thinks I. Maybe the hub needs to be on there. So, I put the hub back
on, spun the wheel, hit the jumper, and it works like a charm. I guess the
activation of these brakes isn't really a many parts moving at a time thing.
Looks like they probably move 1/8" or so.

So, it looks like I need to just chase down the bad connection/ground.

Which brings us to the next question. It is said these need to be hooked up
parallel, not series. There are two greens coming out of the magnet. How
would I find the hot and the ground? Can I just run two lines, and jump
them at the first wheel, then run the wires to dead end at the second wheel?
The other wires to the bulbs are all in another housing, so it is only two
wires.

And do I bring it back and cut the ground near the tongue, and put on two
eye connectors, and screw them to the frame?

Looks like all is good, just have a break somewhere in the wiring, or it got
smashed somewhere. Looked formidable at first, but chasing it down one
component at a time, eliminating this, and that, and gaining another level
of understanding in the process is nice. Trailer lights have never been a
good thing for me. I thought brakes would be similar, but since there are
only two wires, not as much as lighting. There is more to the controller,
and the different things different controllers do. Now that I'm going to be
doing more heavy duty towing, it is nice to get an introduction to these
systems, wiring them from the start, and troubleshooting them after install.

Thanks for the help.

Steve

Steve B laid this down on his screen :
"It is not so necessary any more that I know the answers, but now I desire
more to understand the questions."

Went out and pulled the wire harness loose from my trailer wheels. Blocked
it up. Took off the wheels and hubs. All looked good. Hooked up juice to
it, but nothing moved. Did find out how hot shorted 12v. wires get, and how
fast.

Aha, thinks I. Maybe the hub needs to be on there. So, I put the hub back
on, spun the wheel, hit the jumper, and it works like a charm. I guess the
activation of these brakes isn't really a many parts moving at a time thing.
Looks like they probably move 1/8" or so.

So, it looks like I need to just chase down the bad connection/ground.

Which brings us to the next question. It is said these need to be hooked up
parallel, not series. There are two greens coming out of the magnet. How
would I find the hot and the ground? Can I just run two lines, and jump them
at the first wheel, then run the wires to dead end at the second wheel? The
other wires to the bulbs are all in another housing, so it is only two wires.

And do I bring it back and cut the ground near the tongue, and put on two eye
connectors, and screw them to the frame?

As far as I remember the Aus design rules forbid using the coupling as
the only ground. The ground must be a wire in the harness between the
two vehicles.

Looks like all is good, just have a break somewhere in the wiring, or it got
smashed somewhere. Looked formidable at first, but chasing it down one
component at a time, eliminating this, and that, and gaining another level of
understanding in the process is nice. Trailer lights have never been a good
thing for me. I thought brakes would be similar, but since there are only
two wires, not as much as lighting. There is more to the controller, and the
different things different controllers do. Now that I'm going to be doing
more heavy duty towing, it is nice to get an introduction to these systems,
wiring them from the start, and troubleshooting them after install.

Thanks for the help.

Steve

--
John G

Steve B explained :


Thanks for the help.

Steve

Be ever so nice if you kept the thread together and even modify the
title if that is really necessary.

Electrics 101 would be a good subject to study then you could save a
lot of angst.

--
John G

On 8/17/2012 5:13 PM, Steve B wrote:
"It is not so necessary any more that I know the answers, but now I desire
more to understand the questions."

Went out and pulled the wire harness loose from my trailer wheels. Blocked
it up. Took off the wheels and hubs. All looked good. Hooked up juice to
it, but nothing moved. Did find out how hot shorted 12v. wires get, and how
fast.

Aha, thinks I. Maybe the hub needs to be on there. So, I put the hub back
on, spun the wheel, hit the jumper, and it works like a charm. I guess the
activation of these brakes isn't really a many parts moving at a time thing.
Looks like they probably move 1/8" or so.

So, it looks like I need to just chase down the bad connection/ground.

Which brings us to the next question. It is said these need to be hooked up
parallel, not series. There are two greens coming out of the magnet. How
would I find the hot and the ground? Can I just run two lines, and jump
them at the first wheel, then run the wires to dead end at the second wheel?
The other wires to the bulbs are all in another housing, so it is only two
wires.

full marks.

It's a coil, Steve.
The hot side is the side connected to the positive battery terminal.

Brake and ground each fan out to each of the brake assemblies.
Hot side to the green wire, ground side to the other green wire.
(as you described)




Now that I'm going to be
doing more heavy duty towing, it is nice to get an introduction to these
systems, wiring them from the start, and troubleshooting them after install.

Thanks for the help.

Steve

On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 15:13:51 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

"It is not so necessary any more that I know the answers, but now I desire
more to understand the questions."

Went out and pulled the wire harness loose from my trailer wheels. Blocked
it up. Took off the wheels and hubs. All looked good. Hooked up juice to
it, but nothing moved. Did find out how hot shorted 12v. wires get, and how
fast.

Aha, thinks I. Maybe the hub needs to be on there. So, I put the hub back
on, spun the wheel, hit the jumper, and it works like a charm. I guess the
activation of these brakes isn't really a many parts moving at a time thing.
Looks like they probably move 1/8" or so.


Correct - the magnet is attracted to the turning drum, which drags the
lever forward, applying the brake.
So, it looks like I need to just chase down the bad connection/ground.

Which brings us to the next question. It is said these need to be hooked up
parallel, not series. There are two greens coming out of the magnet. How
would I find the hot and the ground?

Doesn't matter - they are not polarity sensitive

Can I just run two lines, and jump
them at the first wheel, then run the wires to dead end at the second wheel?
The other wires to the bulbs are all in another housing, so it is only two
wires.

And do I bring it back and cut the ground near the tongue, and put on two
eye connectors, and screw them to the frame?

GENERALLY one green wire from each magnet is joined together and
brought forward to the trailer connector, and the other green wire
from each magnet is connected to the trailer frame with an eye
connector and screw. 2 brakes on each side? you can connect the two
together and ground them on one screw. The ground from the trailer
connector gets fastened to the frame at the hitch - often using one of
the hitch (ball connector) bolts. Run all the wires in as protected a
location as possible - no good if they get torn off.

Looks like all is good, just have a break somewhere in the wiring, or it got
smashed somewhere. Looked formidable at first, but chasing it down one
component at a time, eliminating this, and that, and gaining another level
of understanding in the process is nice. Trailer lights have never been a
good thing for me. I thought brakes would be similar, but since there are
only two wires, not as much as lighting. There is more to the controller,
and the different things different controllers do. Now that I'm going to be
doing more heavy duty towing, it is nice to get an introduction to these
systems, wiring them from the start, and troubleshooting them after install.

I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the
tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit
straps.

Thanks for the help.

Steve

On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 15:13:51 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

"It is not so necessary any more that I know the answers, but now I desire
more to understand the questions."

Went out and pulled the wire harness loose from my trailer wheels. Blocked
it up. Took off the wheels and hubs. All looked good. Hooked up juice to
it, but nothing moved. Did find out how hot shorted 12v. wires get, and how
fast.

Aha, thinks I. Maybe the hub needs to be on there. So, I put the hub back
on, spun the wheel, hit the jumper, and it works like a charm. I guess the
activation of these brakes isn't really a many parts moving at a time thing.
Looks like they probably move 1/8" or so.

So, it looks like I need to just chase down the bad connection/ground.

Which brings us to the next question. It is said these need to be hooked up
parallel, not series. There are two greens coming out of the magnet. How
would I find the hot and the ground? Can I just run two lines, and jump
them at the first wheel, then run the wires to dead end at the second wheel?
The other wires to the bulbs are all in another housing, so it is only two
wires.
First try checking continuity between each wire and ground - the brake
body. If no continuity try hooking them up one way and testing the
brake and then reverse the connection and test again. The polarity of
the brake wiring may not be critical to the operation of the brake.

And do I bring it back and cut the ground near the tongue, and put on two
eye connectors, and screw them to the frame?

Looks like all is good, just have a break somewhere in the wiring, or it got
smashed somewhere. Looked formidable at first, but chasing it down one
component at a time, eliminating this, and that, and gaining another level
of understanding in the process is nice. Trailer lights have never been a
good thing for me. I thought brakes would be similar, but since there are
only two wires, not as much as lighting. There is more to the controller,
and the different things different controllers do. Now that I'm going to be
doing more heavy duty towing, it is nice to get an introduction to these
systems, wiring them from the start, and troubleshooting them after install.

Thanks for the help.

Steve

Cheers,
John B.

On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote:

I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the
tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit
straps.


That's an excellent tip.
I ran mine through PVC tube.

"Richard" wrote in message
news
On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote:

I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the
tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit
straps.


That's an excellent tip.
I ran mine through PVC tube.

PVC is some tough stuff, but then so is a piece of Goodyear hose. For me,
considering flexibility and longevity, I'll take the hose idea.

Thanks.

Steve

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 10:49:55 -0500, Richard
wrote:

On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote:

I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the
tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit
straps.


That's an excellent tip.
I ran mine through PVC tube.
The garden hose doesn't break when it flexes. Particularly when cold.

On 8/18/2012 5:58 PM, Steve B wrote:
wrote in message
news
On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote:

I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the
tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit
straps.


That's an excellent tip.
I ran mine through PVC tube.

PVC is some tough stuff, but then so is a piece of Goodyear hose. For me,
considering flexibility and longevity, I'll take the hose idea.

Thanks.

Steve



I didn't have any scrap hose...

On 8/18/2012 9:36 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 10:49:55 -0500,
wrote:

On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote:

I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the
tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit
straps.


That's an excellent tip.
I ran mine through PVC tube.
The garden hose doesn't break when it flexes. Particularly when cold.


what's that? Cold?

"Richard" wrote

I didn't have any scrap hose...

I buy them at yard sales, particularly the very good ones for a buck or so
for just such things. And some of them, the good ones with the heavy brass
fittings, are worth the cost of fixing them. Right now, I just bought two
trees, and they will need guy ropes for a couple of years. Got lots of hose
to make protectors for the bark.

I get stuff from the trash, too. I found a 50' electrical cord in the trash
curbside the other day. It was cut about a foot from one of the connectors.
Really heavy copper extension cord. I'd say it was a solid $25 retail.
Fixit plug, $4. My truck has this auto pilot thing, and headed straight for
it. One day, got two graphite rods, one with an Ambassadeur reel on it.
Guess someone had parted company, and the other was disposing of unwanted
items. I pile stuff up, and twice a year, have a big gar(b)age sale, most
of which is profit.

Steve

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 22:36:04 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 10:49:55 -0500, Richard
wrote:

On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote:

I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the
tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit
straps.


That's an excellent tip.
I ran mine through PVC tube.
The garden hose doesn't break when it flexes. Particularly when cold.


Ayup. I use PVC simply because in MY world..it never freezes. Clare
does indeed use the proper stuff for his.

The current trailer I did with EMT. Simply because I planned on high
winter elevations.

Gunner

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper

On 8/18/2012 5:58 PM, Steve B wrote:
"Richard" wrote in message
news
On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote:

I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the
tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit
straps.


That's an excellent tip.
I ran mine through PVC tube.

PVC is some tough stuff, but then so is a piece of Goodyear hose. For me,
considering flexibility and longevity, I'll take the hose idea.

Thanks.

Steve




Here is an idea that has worked well for me on my 1/2 dozen trailers.
The part that usually gets damaged, shorted, ripped, or whatever is the
relatively short piece of wire between the truck and the trailer. I
mounted an electricians 4square box on the trailer and ran conduit (I've
used both plastic and EMT - the EMT needs a lot fewer clamps and
fasteners) back to the axles and other pieces on to the lights. Use a
heavy multistrand lead from trailer connector to 4square and stranded
copper wires in the conduits. Put a blank plate on the 4square with the
colors marked with a Sharpie. Make all the connections with twist locks
so they can be changed or checked easily. Chasing down problems is
sure a lot more simple with this set up. I've not needed to change out
any of the stranded, but it would be really easy.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

"DanG" wrote

Here is an idea that has worked well for me on my 1/2 dozen trailers. The
part that usually gets damaged, shorted, ripped, or whatever is the
relatively short piece of wire between the truck and the trailer. I
mounted an electricians 4square box on the trailer and ran conduit (I've
used both plastic and EMT - the EMT needs a lot fewer clamps and
fasteners) back to the axles and other pieces on to the lights. Use a
heavy multistrand lead from trailer connector to 4square and stranded
copper wires in the conduits. Put a blank plate on the 4square with the
colors marked with a Sharpie. Make all the connections with twist locks
so they can be changed or checked easily. Chasing down problems is sure
a lot more simple with this set up. I've not needed to change out any of
the stranded, but it would be really easy.

I have a lot of extra electrical parts, and that sounds like a good idea.
Thanks.

Steve

On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 10:44:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"DanG" wrote

Here is an idea that has worked well for me on my 1/2 dozen trailers. The
part that usually gets damaged, shorted, ripped, or whatever is the
relatively short piece of wire between the truck and the trailer. I
mounted an electricians 4square box on the trailer and ran conduit (I've
used both plastic and EMT - the EMT needs a lot fewer clamps and
fasteners) back to the axles and other pieces on to the lights. Use a
heavy multistrand lead from trailer connector to 4square and stranded
copper wires in the conduits. Put a blank plate on the 4square with the
colors marked with a Sharpie. Make all the connections with twist locks
so they can be changed or checked easily. Chasing down problems is sure
a lot more simple with this set up. I've not needed to change out any of
the stranded, but it would be really easy.

I have a lot of extra electrical parts, and that sounds like a good idea.
Thanks.

Steve

Be sure to give the wirenuts a little shot of grease before putting
the cover back on. It helps prevent the wire from corroding away.

Gunner

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper

On 2012-08-25, Gunner wrote:
On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 10:44:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"DanG" wrote

[ ... ]

Put a blank plate on the 4square with the
colors marked with a Sharpie.

Mark on the *inside* of the plate, to protect the markings from
mud wear. And perhaps spritz with some clear enamel as well.

Make all the connections with twist locks
so they can be changed or checked easily.

Wirenuts?

[ ... ]

Be sure to give the wirenuts a little shot of grease before putting
the cover back on. It helps prevent the wire from corroding away.

My own preference for this sort of thing is to put a Jones
Barrier strip inside the box, and use properly sized and crimped ring or
fork terminals to connect to the barrier strip. Note that most crimp
terminals don't work well with solid wire, but stranded was the choice
we started with anyway. :-)

The crimped terminal stay with the wire no matter how many times
you need to disconnect things. Wirenuts result in progressively frayed
wires with stranded wire.

BTW There is a rather rare quick disconnect where identical
terminals are crimped on each of two wires, the two are crossed,
and then brought out to straight, causing a J-hook on each end
to clasp the flat blade on the other end. Slide some Vinyl
sleeving over the joined pair. I call them "handshake splices"
but I don't know the official name. I've only seen them made by
AMP.

Use the terminals in the order of the color code, and match the
color number to the terminal number.

0 Black
1 Brown
2 Red
3 Orange
4 Yellow
5 Green
6 Blue
7 Violet
8 Grey (slate if you want to avoid two colors starting with 'G')
9 White

There are ways to remember the color vs numbers order above.
(Ask if you need one and if someone else does not jump in with all of
them first. :-)

Beware -- don't use the color of the insulation on the crimp
terminals for this. The color of the insulation on the terminals has
another meaning -- the size of the wire to be used in that particular
terminal. There are three normal colors, which repeat in a cycle, but
I'll just list the ones most like to be needed in trailer wiring.


Red 22-18 Ga
Blue 16-14 Ga
Yellow 12-10 Ga

And maybe for something weird

Red 8 Ga

which needs a hydraulic crimping tool, as do the larger ones not listed
here.

Each should be crimped with a different crimper, marked for the size
range (some of the older red ones are marked 22-16 Ga), or a crimper
with multiple crimp locations marked by color. (The hydraulic crimping
tools have interchangeable dies for 8, 6, 4, and 2 ga, and (in a larger
head) for 1-0, 2-0, 3-0 and 4-0.)

The AMP crimpers for blue usually have one handle dipped in blue
paint and the other in green paint. The others have both handles dipped
in the matching color.

Any *good* crimper will have a ratchet which forces you to
complete the crimp before you can release it.

And it will also emboss in the plastic insulation either one or
two raised dots to show the inspector that the right tool was used.
(Red is 1, Blue is 2, Yellow is 1, large red embosses the numeral '8'
instead, as do the larger ones up through 4-0.


Or -- if you don't have room for the terminal strip, another
choice is crimped on ring terminals with a short bolt and nut holding
them together, and heat-shrink sleeving on over the pair (or three or
four) to insulate them from the other sets of terminals.

In either case, the grease, or a spritz some good contact
cleaner is a good idea anyway -- just as with the wirenuts.

Another form of terminal strip is one with a bunch of male
(quick-disconnect) spade terminals sticking up connected together in
pairs or fours, and each wire terminating with a crimper-on female
quick-disconnect (spade). Ideally, use the pre-insulated crimp spade
females so if you pull one off the male terminal and it touches the
chassis (either while testing, or a loose terminal and a heavy bump),
you don't form a short.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 22:22:05 -0700, Gunner Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 22:36:04 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 10:49:55 -0500, Richard
wrote:

On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote:

I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the
tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit
straps.


That's an excellent tip.
I ran mine through PVC tube.
The garden hose doesn't break when it flexes. Particularly when cold.


Ayup. I use PVC simply because in MY world..it never freezes. Clare
does indeed use the proper stuff for his.

The current trailer I did with EMT. Simply because I planned on high
winter elevations.

Wiring the trailer in conduit down the chassis is a good thing - But
there's a much better way to handle the connector whip.

I put a 6-pin Round Commercial socket connector on the tongue of the
trailer, and wire up a Male-Male cable for between the tow vehicle and
the trailer, just like the Nose-Box on Commercial trailers.

This allows for different wiring between the two - My cars are all
wired with the 6-Pin Round but I have cables that go 4-Flat or
7-Round Commercial to 6-Round Commercial also.

Keep an extra chunk of the proper 14-5/12-1 PVC Jacket Trailer Lead
Cable on hand with one 6-Pin Round end already attached, and you can
always make what you need given a few minutes time. Or just Hotwire
it to the car harness with Bullet Connectors and quick-taps... Ugly,
but effective.

All trailers get wired Commercial style too - 2 sets of red
taillights. Two for Stop/tail, and two for Turn/Tail. If you hook up
to an American car it just uses the two Turn lights for Stop/Turn, and
if you hook up to a Japanese/European car with a separate Stop circuit
you do not need a light converter, it just plugs in.

-- Bruce --

On 26 Aug 2012 03:04:59 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2012-08-25, Gunner wrote:
On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 10:44:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"DanG" wrote

[ ... ]

Put a blank plate on the 4square with the
colors marked with a Sharpie.

Mark on the *inside* of the plate, to protect the markings from
mud wear. And perhaps spritz with some clear enamel as well.

Make all the connections with twist locks
so they can be changed or checked easily.

Wirenuts?

Ayup.

[ ... ]

Be sure to give the wirenuts a little shot of grease before putting
the cover back on. It helps prevent the wire from corroding away.

My own preference for this sort of thing is to put a Jones
Barrier strip inside the box, and use properly sized and crimped ring or
fork terminals to connect to the barrier strip. Note that most crimp
terminals don't work well with solid wire, but stranded was the choice
we started with anyway. :-)

The crimped terminal stay with the wire no matter how many times
you need to disconnect things. Wirenuts result in progressively frayed
wires with stranded wire.

BTW There is a rather rare quick disconnect where identical
terminals are crimped on each of two wires, the two are crossed,
and then brought out to straight, causing a J-hook on each end
to clasp the flat blade on the other end. Slide some Vinyl
sleeving over the joined pair. I call them "handshake splices"
but I don't know the official name. I've only seen them made by
AMP.

Use the terminals in the order of the color code, and match the
color number to the terminal number.

0 Black
1 Brown
2 Red
3 Orange
4 Yellow
5 Green
6 Blue
7 Violet
8 Grey (slate if you want to avoid two colors starting with 'G')
9 White

There are ways to remember the color vs numbers order above.
(Ask if you need one and if someone else does not jump in with all of
them first. :-)

Beware -- don't use the color of the insulation on the crimp
terminals for this. The color of the insulation on the terminals has
another meaning -- the size of the wire to be used in that particular
terminal. There are three normal colors, which repeat in a cycle, but
I'll just list the ones most like to be needed in trailer wiring.


Red 22-18 Ga
Blue 16-14 Ga
Yellow 12-10 Ga

And maybe for something weird

Red 8 Ga

which needs a hydraulic crimping tool, as do the larger ones not listed
here.

Each should be crimped with a different crimper, marked for the size
range (some of the older red ones are marked 22-16 Ga), or a crimper
with multiple crimp locations marked by color. (The hydraulic crimping
tools have interchangeable dies for 8, 6, 4, and 2 ga, and (in a larger
head) for 1-0, 2-0, 3-0 and 4-0.)

The AMP crimpers for blue usually have one handle dipped in blue
paint and the other in green paint. The others have both handles dipped
in the matching color.

Any *good* crimper will have a ratchet which forces you to
complete the crimp before you can release it.

And it will also emboss in the plastic insulation either one or
two raised dots to show the inspector that the right tool was used.
(Red is 1, Blue is 2, Yellow is 1, large red embosses the numeral '8'
instead, as do the larger ones up through 4-0.


Or -- if you don't have room for the terminal strip, another
choice is crimped on ring terminals with a short bolt and nut holding
them together, and heat-shrink sleeving on over the pair (or three or
four) to insulate them from the other sets of terminals.

In either case, the grease, or a spritz some good contact
cleaner is a good idea anyway -- just as with the wirenuts.

Another form of terminal strip is one with a bunch of male
(quick-disconnect) spade terminals sticking up connected together in
pairs or fours, and each wire terminating with a crimper-on female
quick-disconnect (spade). Ideally, use the pre-insulated crimp spade
females so if you pull one off the male terminal and it touches the
chassis (either while testing, or a loose terminal and a heavy bump),
you don't form a short.

Enjoy,
DoN.

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...


BTW There is a rather rare quick disconnect where identical
terminals are crimped on each of two wires, the two are crossed,
and then brought out to straight, causing a J-hook on each end
to clasp the flat blade on the other end. Slide some Vinyl
sleeving over the joined pair. I call them "handshake splices"
but I don't know the official name. I've only seen them made by
AMP.


Enjoy,
DoN.

These are becoming the standard low voltage DC connectors for winches,
ham radio and model airplane battery packs:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anderson_Powerpole

http://tinyurl.com/92bhlve

jsw

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:12:06 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...


BTW There is a rather rare quick disconnect where identical
terminals are crimped on each of two wires, the two are crossed,
and then brought out to straight, causing a J-hook on each end
to clasp the flat blade on the other end. Slide some Vinyl
sleeving over the joined pair. I call them "handshake splices"
but I don't know the official name. I've only seen them made by
AMP.


Enjoy,
DoN.

These are becoming the standard low voltage DC connectors for winches,
ham radio and model airplane battery packs:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anderson_Powerpole

http://tinyurl.com/92bhlve

I ended up with that very deal when I put built the removable receiver
winch for my Tundra. Available at NAPA stores nationwide.

--
"Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round...

On 2012-08-26, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...


BTW There is a rather rare quick disconnect where identical
terminals are crimped on each of two wires, the two are crossed,
and then brought out to straight, causing a J-hook on each end
to clasp the flat blade on the other end. Slide some Vinyl
sleeving over the joined pair. I call them "handshake splices"
but I don't know the official name. I've only seen them made by
AMP.


Enjoy,
DoN.

These are becoming the standard low voltage DC connectors for winches,
ham radio and model airplane battery packs:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anderson_Powerpole

http://tinyurl.com/92bhlve

Those are nice things -- but not what I was talking about.

It is not sure whether they are still made. The blades look
somewhat like this:
__
(___ End view

__
:__:__,------{=====} (top view with the 'U' shown in the upper one
at the left hand end here. The crimp barrel
is the "{=====}" part and should be shown
larger than it is.
_
/ |___ ______
|_|___:______{=====}

The hook at the end grips both sides of the opposite blade. The
place marked ',' in the second drawing and ':' in the third is
an offeset bend to bring the blade in line with the middel of
the hook.

The only size that I have seen was with the red crimp barrel
(22-16 ga). And the only place I have seen them used in a commercial
product was in the Ampex rack-mount 10-1/2" reel to reel tape decks, for
connecting the brake solenoids and the pinch roller solenoid to the rest
of the wiring.

Aha! I *do* still have a pair (and would love to find more).
Check out this for images of mine -- *much* better than my attempts at
ASCII graphics above.

http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/AMP-handshake/index.html

They normally have a vinyl sleev slipped over them after mating.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 27 Aug 2012 02:44:25 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2012-08-26, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...


BTW There is a rather rare quick disconnect where identical
terminals are crimped on each of two wires, the two are crossed,
and then brought out to straight, causing a J-hook on each end
to clasp the flat blade on the other end. Slide some Vinyl
sleeving over the joined pair. I call them "handshake splices"
but I don't know the official name. I've only seen them made by
AMP.


Enjoy,
DoN.

These are becoming the standard low voltage DC connectors for winches,
ham radio and model airplane battery packs:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anderson_Powerpole

http://tinyurl.com/92bhlve

Those are nice things -- but not what I was talking about.

It is not sure whether they are still made. The blades look
somewhat like this:
__
(___ End view

__
:__:__,------{=====} (top view with the 'U' shown in the upper one
at the left hand end here. The crimp barrel
is the "{=====}" part and should be shown
larger than it is.
_
/ |___ ______
|_|___:______{=====}

The hook at the end grips both sides of the opposite blade. The
place marked ',' in the second drawing and ':' in the third is
an offeset bend to bring the blade in line with the middel of
the hook.

The only size that I have seen was with the red crimp barrel
(22-16 ga). And the only place I have seen them used in a commercial
product was in the Ampex rack-mount 10-1/2" reel to reel tape decks, for
connecting the brake solenoids and the pinch roller solenoid to the rest
of the wiring.

Aha! I *do* still have a pair (and would love to find more).
Check out this for images of mine -- *much* better than my attempts at
ASCII graphics above.

http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/AMP-handshake/index.html

They normally have a vinyl sleev slipped over them after mating.

Gawd, I haven't seen those since the early '70s, Don! Ancient
historical items, eh? I called 'em knife-switch connectors.

--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman