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"It is not so necessary any more that I know the answers, but now I desire
more to understand the questions." Went out and pulled the wire harness loose from my trailer wheels. Blocked it up. Took off the wheels and hubs. All looked good. Hooked up juice to it, but nothing moved. Did find out how hot shorted 12v. wires get, and how fast. Aha, thinks I. Maybe the hub needs to be on there. So, I put the hub back on, spun the wheel, hit the jumper, and it works like a charm. I guess the activation of these brakes isn't really a many parts moving at a time thing. Looks like they probably move 1/8" or so. So, it looks like I need to just chase down the bad connection/ground. Which brings us to the next question. It is said these need to be hooked up parallel, not series. There are two greens coming out of the magnet. How would I find the hot and the ground? Can I just run two lines, and jump them at the first wheel, then run the wires to dead end at the second wheel? The other wires to the bulbs are all in another housing, so it is only two wires. And do I bring it back and cut the ground near the tongue, and put on two eye connectors, and screw them to the frame? Looks like all is good, just have a break somewhere in the wiring, or it got smashed somewhere. Looked formidable at first, but chasing it down one component at a time, eliminating this, and that, and gaining another level of understanding in the process is nice. Trailer lights have never been a good thing for me. I thought brakes would be similar, but since there are only two wires, not as much as lighting. There is more to the controller, and the different things different controllers do. Now that I'm going to be doing more heavy duty towing, it is nice to get an introduction to these systems, wiring them from the start, and troubleshooting them after install. Thanks for the help. Steve |
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Steve B laid this down on his screen :
"It is not so necessary any more that I know the answers, but now I desire more to understand the questions." Went out and pulled the wire harness loose from my trailer wheels. Blocked it up. Took off the wheels and hubs. All looked good. Hooked up juice to it, but nothing moved. Did find out how hot shorted 12v. wires get, and how fast. Aha, thinks I. Maybe the hub needs to be on there. So, I put the hub back on, spun the wheel, hit the jumper, and it works like a charm. I guess the activation of these brakes isn't really a many parts moving at a time thing. Looks like they probably move 1/8" or so. So, it looks like I need to just chase down the bad connection/ground. Which brings us to the next question. It is said these need to be hooked up parallel, not series. There are two greens coming out of the magnet. How would I find the hot and the ground? Can I just run two lines, and jump them at the first wheel, then run the wires to dead end at the second wheel? The other wires to the bulbs are all in another housing, so it is only two wires. And do I bring it back and cut the ground near the tongue, and put on two eye connectors, and screw them to the frame? As far as I remember the Aus design rules forbid using the coupling as the only ground. The ground must be a wire in the harness between the two vehicles. Looks like all is good, just have a break somewhere in the wiring, or it got smashed somewhere. Looked formidable at first, but chasing it down one component at a time, eliminating this, and that, and gaining another level of understanding in the process is nice. Trailer lights have never been a good thing for me. I thought brakes would be similar, but since there are only two wires, not as much as lighting. There is more to the controller, and the different things different controllers do. Now that I'm going to be doing more heavy duty towing, it is nice to get an introduction to these systems, wiring them from the start, and troubleshooting them after install. Thanks for the help. Steve -- John G |
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Steve B explained :
Thanks for the help. Steve Be ever so nice if you kept the thread together and even modify the title if that is really necessary. Electrics 101 would be a good subject to study then you could save a lot of angst. -- John G |
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On 8/17/2012 5:13 PM, Steve B wrote:
"It is not so necessary any more that I know the answers, but now I desire more to understand the questions." Went out and pulled the wire harness loose from my trailer wheels. Blocked it up. Took off the wheels and hubs. All looked good. Hooked up juice to it, but nothing moved. Did find out how hot shorted 12v. wires get, and how fast. Aha, thinks I. Maybe the hub needs to be on there. So, I put the hub back on, spun the wheel, hit the jumper, and it works like a charm. I guess the activation of these brakes isn't really a many parts moving at a time thing. Looks like they probably move 1/8" or so. So, it looks like I need to just chase down the bad connection/ground. Which brings us to the next question. It is said these need to be hooked up parallel, not series. There are two greens coming out of the magnet. How would I find the hot and the ground? Can I just run two lines, and jump them at the first wheel, then run the wires to dead end at the second wheel? The other wires to the bulbs are all in another housing, so it is only two wires. full marks. It's a coil, Steve. The hot side is the side connected to the positive battery terminal. :) Brake and ground each fan out to each of the brake assemblies. Hot side to the green wire, ground side to the other green wire. (as you described) Now that I'm going to be doing more heavy duty towing, it is nice to get an introduction to these systems, wiring them from the start, and troubleshooting them after install. Thanks for the help. Steve |
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On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 15:13:51 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote: "It is not so necessary any more that I know the answers, but now I desire more to understand the questions." Went out and pulled the wire harness loose from my trailer wheels. Blocked it up. Took off the wheels and hubs. All looked good. Hooked up juice to it, but nothing moved. Did find out how hot shorted 12v. wires get, and how fast. Aha, thinks I. Maybe the hub needs to be on there. So, I put the hub back on, spun the wheel, hit the jumper, and it works like a charm. I guess the activation of these brakes isn't really a many parts moving at a time thing. Looks like they probably move 1/8" or so. Correct - the magnet is attracted to the turning drum, which drags the lever forward, applying the brake. So, it looks like I need to just chase down the bad connection/ground. Which brings us to the next question. It is said these need to be hooked up parallel, not series. There are two greens coming out of the magnet. How would I find the hot and the ground? Doesn't matter - they are not polarity sensitive Can I just run two lines, and jump them at the first wheel, then run the wires to dead end at the second wheel? The other wires to the bulbs are all in another housing, so it is only two wires. And do I bring it back and cut the ground near the tongue, and put on two eye connectors, and screw them to the frame? GENERALLY one green wire from each magnet is joined together and brought forward to the trailer connector, and the other green wire from each magnet is connected to the trailer frame with an eye connector and screw. 2 brakes on each side? you can connect the two together and ground them on one screw. The ground from the trailer connector gets fastened to the frame at the hitch - often using one of the hitch (ball connector) bolts. Run all the wires in as protected a location as possible - no good if they get torn off. Looks like all is good, just have a break somewhere in the wiring, or it got smashed somewhere. Looked formidable at first, but chasing it down one component at a time, eliminating this, and that, and gaining another level of understanding in the process is nice. Trailer lights have never been a good thing for me. I thought brakes would be similar, but since there are only two wires, not as much as lighting. There is more to the controller, and the different things different controllers do. Now that I'm going to be doing more heavy duty towing, it is nice to get an introduction to these systems, wiring them from the start, and troubleshooting them after install. I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit straps. Thanks for the help. Steve |
Answers and questions
On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 15:13:51 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote: "It is not so necessary any more that I know the answers, but now I desire more to understand the questions." Went out and pulled the wire harness loose from my trailer wheels. Blocked it up. Took off the wheels and hubs. All looked good. Hooked up juice to it, but nothing moved. Did find out how hot shorted 12v. wires get, and how fast. Aha, thinks I. Maybe the hub needs to be on there. So, I put the hub back on, spun the wheel, hit the jumper, and it works like a charm. I guess the activation of these brakes isn't really a many parts moving at a time thing. Looks like they probably move 1/8" or so. So, it looks like I need to just chase down the bad connection/ground. Which brings us to the next question. It is said these need to be hooked up parallel, not series. There are two greens coming out of the magnet. How would I find the hot and the ground? Can I just run two lines, and jump them at the first wheel, then run the wires to dead end at the second wheel? The other wires to the bulbs are all in another housing, so it is only two wires. First try checking continuity between each wire and ground - the brake body. If no continuity try hooking them up one way and testing the brake and then reverse the connection and test again. The polarity of the brake wiring may not be critical to the operation of the brake. And do I bring it back and cut the ground near the tongue, and put on two eye connectors, and screw them to the frame? Looks like all is good, just have a break somewhere in the wiring, or it got smashed somewhere. Looked formidable at first, but chasing it down one component at a time, eliminating this, and that, and gaining another level of understanding in the process is nice. Trailer lights have never been a good thing for me. I thought brakes would be similar, but since there are only two wires, not as much as lighting. There is more to the controller, and the different things different controllers do. Now that I'm going to be doing more heavy duty towing, it is nice to get an introduction to these systems, wiring them from the start, and troubleshooting them after install. Thanks for the help. Steve Cheers, John B. |
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"Richard" wrote in message m... On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote: I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit straps. That's an excellent tip. I ran mine through PVC tube. PVC is some tough stuff, but then so is a piece of Goodyear hose. For me, considering flexibility and longevity, I'll take the hose idea. Thanks. Steve |
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On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 10:49:55 -0500, Richard
wrote: On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote: I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit straps. That's an excellent tip. I ran mine through PVC tube. The garden hose doesn't break when it flexes. Particularly when cold. |
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On 8/18/2012 5:58 PM, Steve B wrote:
wrote in message m... On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote: I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit straps. That's an excellent tip. I ran mine through PVC tube. PVC is some tough stuff, but then so is a piece of Goodyear hose. For me, considering flexibility and longevity, I'll take the hose idea. Thanks. Steve I didn't have any scrap hose... |
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"Richard" wrote I didn't have any scrap hose... I buy them at yard sales, particularly the very good ones for a buck or so for just such things. And some of them, the good ones with the heavy brass fittings, are worth the cost of fixing them. Right now, I just bought two trees, and they will need guy ropes for a couple of years. Got lots of hose to make protectors for the bark. I get stuff from the trash, too. I found a 50' electrical cord in the trash curbside the other day. It was cut about a foot from one of the connectors. Really heavy copper extension cord. I'd say it was a solid $25 retail. Fixit plug, $4. My truck has this auto pilot thing, and headed straight for it. One day, got two graphite rods, one with an Ambassadeur reel on it. Guess someone had parted company, and the other was disposing of unwanted items. I pile stuff up, and twice a year, have a big gar(b)age sale, most of which is profit. Steve |
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On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 22:36:04 -0400, wrote:
On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 10:49:55 -0500, Richard wrote: On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote: I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit straps. That's an excellent tip. I ran mine through PVC tube. The garden hose doesn't break when it flexes. Particularly when cold. Ayup. I use PVC simply because in MY world..it never freezes. Clare does indeed use the proper stuff for his. The current trailer I did with EMT. Simply because I planned on high winter elevations. Gunner One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure - and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy. - Jeff Cooper |
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On 8/18/2012 5:58 PM, Steve B wrote:
"Richard" wrote in message m... On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote: I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit straps. That's an excellent tip. I ran mine through PVC tube. PVC is some tough stuff, but then so is a piece of Goodyear hose. For me, considering flexibility and longevity, I'll take the hose idea. Thanks. Steve Here is an idea that has worked well for me on my 1/2 dozen trailers. The part that usually gets damaged, shorted, ripped, or whatever is the relatively short piece of wire between the truck and the trailer. I mounted an electricians 4square box on the trailer and ran conduit (I've used both plastic and EMT - the EMT needs a lot fewer clamps and fasteners) back to the axles and other pieces on to the lights. Use a heavy multistrand lead from trailer connector to 4square and stranded copper wires in the conduits. Put a blank plate on the 4square with the colors marked with a Sharpie. Make all the connections with twist locks so they can be changed or checked easily. Chasing down problems is sure a lot more simple with this set up. I've not needed to change out any of the stranded, but it would be really easy. -- ___________________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . Dan G remove the seven |
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"DanG" wrote Here is an idea that has worked well for me on my 1/2 dozen trailers. The part that usually gets damaged, shorted, ripped, or whatever is the relatively short piece of wire between the truck and the trailer. I mounted an electricians 4square box on the trailer and ran conduit (I've used both plastic and EMT - the EMT needs a lot fewer clamps and fasteners) back to the axles and other pieces on to the lights. Use a heavy multistrand lead from trailer connector to 4square and stranded copper wires in the conduits. Put a blank plate on the 4square with the colors marked with a Sharpie. Make all the connections with twist locks so they can be changed or checked easily. Chasing down problems is sure a lot more simple with this set up. I've not needed to change out any of the stranded, but it would be really easy. I have a lot of extra electrical parts, and that sounds like a good idea. Thanks. Steve |
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On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 10:44:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote: "DanG" wrote Here is an idea that has worked well for me on my 1/2 dozen trailers. The part that usually gets damaged, shorted, ripped, or whatever is the relatively short piece of wire between the truck and the trailer. I mounted an electricians 4square box on the trailer and ran conduit (I've used both plastic and EMT - the EMT needs a lot fewer clamps and fasteners) back to the axles and other pieces on to the lights. Use a heavy multistrand lead from trailer connector to 4square and stranded copper wires in the conduits. Put a blank plate on the 4square with the colors marked with a Sharpie. Make all the connections with twist locks so they can be changed or checked easily. Chasing down problems is sure a lot more simple with this set up. I've not needed to change out any of the stranded, but it would be really easy. I have a lot of extra electrical parts, and that sounds like a good idea. Thanks. Steve Be sure to give the wirenuts a little shot of grease before putting the cover back on. It helps prevent the wire from corroding away. Gunner One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure - and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy. - Jeff Cooper |
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On 2012-08-25, Gunner wrote:
On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 10:44:37 -0700, "Steve B" wrote: "DanG" wrote [ ... ] Put a blank plate on the 4square with the colors marked with a Sharpie. Mark on the *inside* of the plate, to protect the markings from mud wear. And perhaps spritz with some clear enamel as well. Make all the connections with twist locks so they can be changed or checked easily. Wirenuts? [ ... ] Be sure to give the wirenuts a little shot of grease before putting the cover back on. It helps prevent the wire from corroding away. My own preference for this sort of thing is to put a Jones Barrier strip inside the box, and use properly sized and crimped ring or fork terminals to connect to the barrier strip. Note that most crimp terminals don't work well with solid wire, but stranded was the choice we started with anyway. :-) The crimped terminal stay with the wire no matter how many times you need to disconnect things. Wirenuts result in progressively frayed wires with stranded wire. BTW There is a rather rare quick disconnect where identical terminals are crimped on each of two wires, the two are crossed, and then brought out to straight, causing a J-hook on each end to clasp the flat blade on the other end. Slide some Vinyl sleeving over the joined pair. I call them "handshake splices" but I don't know the official name. I've only seen them made by AMP. Use the terminals in the order of the color code, and match the color number to the terminal number. 0 Black 1 Brown 2 Red 3 Orange 4 Yellow 5 Green 6 Blue 7 Violet 8 Grey (slate if you want to avoid two colors starting with 'G') 9 White There are ways to remember the color vs numbers order above. (Ask if you need one and if someone else does not jump in with all of them first. :-) Beware -- don't use the color of the insulation on the crimp terminals for this. The color of the insulation on the terminals has another meaning -- the size of the wire to be used in that particular terminal. There are three normal colors, which repeat in a cycle, but I'll just list the ones most like to be needed in trailer wiring. Red 22-18 Ga Blue 16-14 Ga Yellow 12-10 Ga And maybe for something weird Red 8 Ga which needs a hydraulic crimping tool, as do the larger ones not listed here. Each should be crimped with a different crimper, marked for the size range (some of the older red ones are marked 22-16 Ga), or a crimper with multiple crimp locations marked by color. (The hydraulic crimping tools have interchangeable dies for 8, 6, 4, and 2 ga, and (in a larger head) for 1-0, 2-0, 3-0 and 4-0.) The AMP crimpers for blue usually have one handle dipped in blue paint and the other in green paint. The others have both handles dipped in the matching color. Any *good* crimper will have a ratchet which forces you to complete the crimp before you can release it. And it will also emboss in the plastic insulation either one or two raised dots to show the inspector that the right tool was used. (Red is 1, Blue is 2, Yellow is 1, large red embosses the numeral '8' instead, as do the larger ones up through 4-0. Or -- if you don't have room for the terminal strip, another choice is crimped on ring terminals with a short bolt and nut holding them together, and heat-shrink sleeving on over the pair (or three or four) to insulate them from the other sets of terminals. In either case, the grease, or a spritz some good contact cleaner is a good idea anyway -- just as with the wirenuts. Another form of terminal strip is one with a bunch of male (quick-disconnect) spade terminals sticking up connected together in pairs or fours, and each wire terminating with a crimper-on female quick-disconnect (spade). Ideally, use the pre-insulated crimp spade females so if you pull one off the male terminal and it touches the chassis (either while testing, or a loose terminal and a heavy bump), you don't form a short. Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 22:22:05 -0700, Gunner Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 22:36:04 -0400, wrote: On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 10:49:55 -0500, Richard wrote: On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote: I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit straps. That's an excellent tip. I ran mine through PVC tube. The garden hose doesn't break when it flexes. Particularly when cold. Ayup. I use PVC simply because in MY world..it never freezes. Clare does indeed use the proper stuff for his. The current trailer I did with EMT. Simply because I planned on high winter elevations. Wiring the trailer in conduit down the chassis is a good thing - But there's a much better way to handle the connector whip. I put a 6-pin Round Commercial socket connector on the tongue of the trailer, and wire up a Male-Male cable for between the tow vehicle and the trailer, just like the Nose-Box on Commercial trailers. This allows for different wiring between the two - My cars are all wired with the 6-Pin Round but I have cables that go 4-Flat or 7-Round Commercial to 6-Round Commercial also. Keep an extra chunk of the proper 14-5/12-1 PVC Jacket Trailer Lead Cable on hand with one 6-Pin Round end already attached, and you can always make what you need given a few minutes time. Or just Hotwire it to the car harness with Bullet Connectors and quick-taps... Ugly, but effective. All trailers get wired Commercial style too - 2 sets of red taillights. Two for Stop/tail, and two for Turn/Tail. If you hook up to an American car it just uses the two Turn lights for Stop/Turn, and if you hook up to a Japanese/European car with a separate Stop circuit you do not need a light converter, it just plugs in. -- Bruce -- |
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On 26 Aug 2012 03:04:59 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote: On 2012-08-25, Gunner wrote: On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 10:44:37 -0700, "Steve B" wrote: "DanG" wrote [ ... ] Put a blank plate on the 4square with the colors marked with a Sharpie. Mark on the *inside* of the plate, to protect the markings from mud wear. And perhaps spritz with some clear enamel as well. Make all the connections with twist locks so they can be changed or checked easily. Wirenuts? Ayup. [ ... ] Be sure to give the wirenuts a little shot of grease before putting the cover back on. It helps prevent the wire from corroding away. My own preference for this sort of thing is to put a Jones Barrier strip inside the box, and use properly sized and crimped ring or fork terminals to connect to the barrier strip. Note that most crimp terminals don't work well with solid wire, but stranded was the choice we started with anyway. :-) The crimped terminal stay with the wire no matter how many times you need to disconnect things. Wirenuts result in progressively frayed wires with stranded wire. BTW There is a rather rare quick disconnect where identical terminals are crimped on each of two wires, the two are crossed, and then brought out to straight, causing a J-hook on each end to clasp the flat blade on the other end. Slide some Vinyl sleeving over the joined pair. I call them "handshake splices" but I don't know the official name. I've only seen them made by AMP. Use the terminals in the order of the color code, and match the color number to the terminal number. 0 Black 1 Brown 2 Red 3 Orange 4 Yellow 5 Green 6 Blue 7 Violet 8 Grey (slate if you want to avoid two colors starting with 'G') 9 White There are ways to remember the color vs numbers order above. (Ask if you need one and if someone else does not jump in with all of them first. :-) Beware -- don't use the color of the insulation on the crimp terminals for this. The color of the insulation on the terminals has another meaning -- the size of the wire to be used in that particular terminal. There are three normal colors, which repeat in a cycle, but I'll just list the ones most like to be needed in trailer wiring. Red 22-18 Ga Blue 16-14 Ga Yellow 12-10 Ga And maybe for something weird Red 8 Ga which needs a hydraulic crimping tool, as do the larger ones not listed here. Each should be crimped with a different crimper, marked for the size range (some of the older red ones are marked 22-16 Ga), or a crimper with multiple crimp locations marked by color. (The hydraulic crimping tools have interchangeable dies for 8, 6, 4, and 2 ga, and (in a larger head) for 1-0, 2-0, 3-0 and 4-0.) The AMP crimpers for blue usually have one handle dipped in blue paint and the other in green paint. The others have both handles dipped in the matching color. Any *good* crimper will have a ratchet which forces you to complete the crimp before you can release it. And it will also emboss in the plastic insulation either one or two raised dots to show the inspector that the right tool was used. (Red is 1, Blue is 2, Yellow is 1, large red embosses the numeral '8' instead, as do the larger ones up through 4-0. Or -- if you don't have room for the terminal strip, another choice is crimped on ring terminals with a short bolt and nut holding them together, and heat-shrink sleeving on over the pair (or three or four) to insulate them from the other sets of terminals. In either case, the grease, or a spritz some good contact cleaner is a good idea anyway -- just as with the wirenuts. Another form of terminal strip is one with a bunch of male (quick-disconnect) spade terminals sticking up connected together in pairs or fours, and each wire terminating with a crimper-on female quick-disconnect (spade). Ideally, use the pre-insulated crimp spade females so if you pull one off the male terminal and it touches the chassis (either while testing, or a loose terminal and a heavy bump), you don't form a short. Enjoy, DoN. One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure - and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy. - Jeff Cooper |
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"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
... BTW There is a rather rare quick disconnect where identical terminals are crimped on each of two wires, the two are crossed, and then brought out to straight, causing a J-hook on each end to clasp the flat blade on the other end. Slide some Vinyl sleeving over the joined pair. I call them "handshake splices" but I don't know the official name. I've only seen them made by AMP. Enjoy, DoN. These are becoming the standard low voltage DC connectors for winches, ham radio and model airplane battery packs: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anderson_Powerpole http://tinyurl.com/92bhlve jsw |
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On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:12:06 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote: "DoN. Nichols" wrote in message ... BTW There is a rather rare quick disconnect where identical terminals are crimped on each of two wires, the two are crossed, and then brought out to straight, causing a J-hook on each end to clasp the flat blade on the other end. Slide some Vinyl sleeving over the joined pair. I call them "handshake splices" but I don't know the official name. I've only seen them made by AMP. Enjoy, DoN. These are becoming the standard low voltage DC connectors for winches, ham radio and model airplane battery packs: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anderson_Powerpole http://tinyurl.com/92bhlve I ended up with that very deal when I put built the removable receiver winch for my Tundra. Available at NAPA stores nationwide. -- "Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round... |
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On 2012-08-26, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message ... BTW There is a rather rare quick disconnect where identical terminals are crimped on each of two wires, the two are crossed, and then brought out to straight, causing a J-hook on each end to clasp the flat blade on the other end. Slide some Vinyl sleeving over the joined pair. I call them "handshake splices" but I don't know the official name. I've only seen them made by AMP. Enjoy, DoN. These are becoming the standard low voltage DC connectors for winches, ham radio and model airplane battery packs: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anderson_Powerpole http://tinyurl.com/92bhlve Those are nice things -- but not what I was talking about. It is not sure whether they are still made. The blades look somewhat like this: __ (___ End view __ :__:__,------{=====} (top view with the 'U' shown in the upper one at the left hand end here. The crimp barrel is the "{=====}" part and should be shown larger than it is. _ / |___ ______ |_|___:______{=====} The hook at the end grips both sides of the opposite blade. The place marked ',' in the second drawing and ':' in the third is an offeset bend to bring the blade in line with the middel of the hook. The only size that I have seen was with the red crimp barrel (22-16 ga). And the only place I have seen them used in a commercial product was in the Ampex rack-mount 10-1/2" reel to reel tape decks, for connecting the brake solenoids and the pinch roller solenoid to the rest of the wiring. Aha! I *do* still have a pair (and would love to find more). Check out this for images of mine -- *much* better than my attempts at ASCII graphics above. http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/AMP-handshake/index.html They normally have a vinyl sleev slipped over them after mating. Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
Answers and questions
On 27 Aug 2012 02:44:25 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote: On 2012-08-26, Jim Wilkins wrote: "DoN. Nichols" wrote in message ... BTW There is a rather rare quick disconnect where identical terminals are crimped on each of two wires, the two are crossed, and then brought out to straight, causing a J-hook on each end to clasp the flat blade on the other end. Slide some Vinyl sleeving over the joined pair. I call them "handshake splices" but I don't know the official name. I've only seen them made by AMP. Enjoy, DoN. These are becoming the standard low voltage DC connectors for winches, ham radio and model airplane battery packs: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anderson_Powerpole http://tinyurl.com/92bhlve Those are nice things -- but not what I was talking about. It is not sure whether they are still made. The blades look somewhat like this: __ (___ End view __ :__:__,------{=====} (top view with the 'U' shown in the upper one at the left hand end here. The crimp barrel is the "{=====}" part and should be shown larger than it is. _ / |___ ______ |_|___:______{=====} The hook at the end grips both sides of the opposite blade. The place marked ',' in the second drawing and ':' in the third is an offeset bend to bring the blade in line with the middel of the hook. The only size that I have seen was with the red crimp barrel (22-16 ga). And the only place I have seen them used in a commercial product was in the Ampex rack-mount 10-1/2" reel to reel tape decks, for connecting the brake solenoids and the pinch roller solenoid to the rest of the wiring. Aha! I *do* still have a pair (and would love to find more). Check out this for images of mine -- *much* better than my attempts at ASCII graphics above. http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/AMP-handshake/index.html They normally have a vinyl sleev slipped over them after mating. Gawd, I haven't seen those since the early '70s, Don! Ancient historical items, eh? I called 'em knife-switch connectors. -- The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold. -- Glenn Doman |
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