On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 22:22:05 -0700, Gunner Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 22:36:04 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 10:49:55 -0500, Richard
wrote:

On 8/17/2012 9:41 PM, wrote:

I generally run the wires through a peice of garden hose down the
tongue and frame and strap the hose solidly to the frame with conduit
straps.


That's an excellent tip.
I ran mine through PVC tube.
The garden hose doesn't break when it flexes. Particularly when cold.


Ayup. I use PVC simply because in MY world..it never freezes. Clare
does indeed use the proper stuff for his.

The current trailer I did with EMT. Simply because I planned on high
winter elevations.

Wiring the trailer in conduit down the chassis is a good thing - But
there's a much better way to handle the connector whip.

I put a 6-pin Round Commercial socket connector on the tongue of the
trailer, and wire up a Male-Male cable for between the tow vehicle and
the trailer, just like the Nose-Box on Commercial trailers.

This allows for different wiring between the two - My cars are all
wired with the 6-Pin Round but I have cables that go 4-Flat or
7-Round Commercial to 6-Round Commercial also.

Keep an extra chunk of the proper 14-5/12-1 PVC Jacket Trailer Lead
Cable on hand with one 6-Pin Round end already attached, and you can
always make what you need given a few minutes time. Or just Hotwire
it to the car harness with Bullet Connectors and quick-taps... Ugly,
but effective.

All trailers get wired Commercial style too - 2 sets of red
taillights. Two for Stop/tail, and two for Turn/Tail. If you hook up
to an American car it just uses the two Turn lights for Stop/Turn, and
if you hook up to a Japanese/European car with a separate Stop circuit
you do not need a light converter, it just plugs in.

-- Bruce --