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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
The 3-jaw chuck has been on for at least a year. I need to change chucks.
It mounts on a taper and is drawn in and pushed off with a threaded collar. The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. Any ideas from someone familiar with a RP? Here's a pix of one like mine. http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mn...?091006/8905/2 |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
On Tue, 15 May 2012 16:13:41 -0400, "Tom Gardner" wrote:
The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. First put some heavy duty padding on the ways but make sure you're wearing good quality steel toed boots just in case. Next get the BFH and the heat source and any other tools you've used so far out of the way. Then at a convenient predetermined time have RogerN pray the chuck onto the padding. |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message ... The 3-jaw chuck has been on for at least a year. I need to change chucks. It mounts on a taper and is drawn in and pushed off with a threaded collar. The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. Any ideas from someone familiar with a RP? Here's a pix of one like mine. http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mn...?091006/8905/2 I don't have a RP but why not pass a large bar in from the tailstock and clamp on it with the chuck. Then try the bfh that way? maybe..... :) phil k. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
On 5/15/2012 6:05 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:
"Tom wrote in message ... The 3-jaw chuck has been on for at least a year. I need to change chucks. It mounts on a taper and is drawn in and pushed off with a threaded collar. The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. Any ideas from someone familiar with a RP? Here's a pix of one like mine. http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mn...?091006/8905/2 I don't have a RP but why not pass a large bar in from the tailstock and clamp on it with the chuck. Then try the bfh that way? maybe..... :) phil k. It took me a while but I see what you mean! If I can shock the chuck on the taper, maybe the collar will budge. Good idea Phil, thanks. |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
Tom Gardner wrote:
The 3-jaw chuck has been on for at least a year. I need to change chucks. It mounts on a taper and is drawn in and pushed off with a threaded collar. The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. Any ideas from someone familiar with a RP? Here's a pix of one like mine. http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mn...?091006/8905/2 Sounds like an L fitting as I have a lathe with a L00 but have never had a problem with it sticking. I think in the circumstance I would tighten the collar to try and remove it, maybe even pound on the C spanner a bit to make sure it's tensioned, then warm the chuck to try and break the grip and hopefully it'll pop free. I've suggested this to my neighbour to free the rear axle hubs on his Morgan, IIRC a 5 degree included angle taper on the end off the half shaft, and once the puller was done up tight and the hub warmed they just popped off. |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
Tom Gardner wrote:
The 3-jaw chuck has been on for at least a year. I need to change chucks. It mounts on a taper and is drawn in and pushed off with a threaded collar. The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. Any ideas from someone familiar with a RP? Here's a pix of one like mine. http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mn...?091006/8905/2 Are you turning it the right way? The wrench handle goes over the top pushing it to the back. John |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
On 2012-05-15, Tom Gardner wrote:
The 3-jaw chuck has been on for at least a year. I need to change chucks. It mounts on a taper and is drawn in and pushed off with a threaded collar. The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. Any ideas from someone familiar with a RP? Here's a pix of one like mine. http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mn...?091006/8905/2 O.K. That looks like a L-00 (or likely larger) spindle nose. Of course no photo shows the spindle nose with no chuck installed, but at least one view from the back shows the notched collar. I don't have a RP, but my 12x24" Clausing has a L-00 spindle so I am familiar with removing and installing chucks and collet closers. Which way are you trying to drive the collar? The threaded part is on the back of the chuck, not on the spindle, and it is a normal right-hand thread, so you want to drive the top of the ring towards the back of the lathe to loosen it. Put a piece of wood (thick plywood or thicker non-plywood shaped to cradle the chuck on top of the bed before you start driving. If that is as big as it looks, you certainly don't want to find yourself having to catch that chuck in a hurry. Good Luck, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
On 5/15/2012 9:27 PM, John wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote: The 3-jaw chuck has been on for at least a year. I need to change chucks. It mounts on a taper and is drawn in and pushed off with a threaded collar. The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. Any ideas from someone familiar with a RP? Here's a pix of one like mine. http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mn...?091006/8905/2 Are you turning it the right way? The wrench handle goes over the top pushing it to the back. John Yep! Every time I change the chuck I have to look at the thread and make sure that I'm turning it right. I've even used a .401 air chissle with a bit I made just for the collar. Even though the chucks are a bitch, that is the sweetest lathe in the world! |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
On 5/15/2012 9:58 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2012-05-15, Tom wrote: The 3-jaw chuck has been on for at least a year. I need to change chucks. It mounts on a taper and is drawn in and pushed off with a threaded collar. The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. Any ideas from someone familiar with a RP? Here's a pix of one like mine. http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mn...?091006/8905/2 O.K. That looks like a L-00 (or likely larger) spindle nose. Of course no photo shows the spindle nose with no chuck installed, but at least one view from the back shows the notched collar. I don't have a RP, but my 12x24" Clausing has a L-00 spindle so I am familiar with removing and installing chucks and collet closers. Which way are you trying to drive the collar? The threaded part is on the back of the chuck, not on the spindle, and it is a normal right-hand thread, so you want to drive the top of the ring towards the back of the lathe to loosen it. Put a piece of wood (thick plywood or thicker non-plywood shaped to cradle the chuck on top of the bed before you start driving. If that is as big as it looks, you certainly don't want to find yourself having to catch that chuck in a hurry. Good Luck, DoN. As soon as the taper hold is broken there is 4 or 5 inches to go to get the chuck off the nose. We have a winch over the lathe, those chucks are heavy and I'm old(er). It's still the sweetest lathe in the world and at 7.5 or 10 hp (I forget) it's got all the balls I ever needed and it's accurate. I need to change the chuck to trepan 4" holes in twelve 8"x 1" rounds of D-2 for circular shear blades. I sold the design to a company in Germany 20 years ago for $20k, they couldn't get theirs to work properly. They make cutting equipment among other things. |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
On 5/15/2012 9:58 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2012-05-15, Tom wrote: The 3-jaw chuck has been on for at least a year. I need to change chucks. It mounts on a taper and is drawn in and pushed off with a threaded collar. The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. Any ideas from someone familiar with a RP? Here's a pix of one like mine. http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mn...?091006/8905/2 O.K. That looks like a L-00 (or likely larger) spindle nose. Of course no photo shows the spindle nose with no chuck installed, but at least one view from the back shows the notched collar. I don't have a RP, but my 12x24" Clausing has a L-00 spindle so I am familiar with removing and installing chucks and collet closers. Which way are you trying to drive the collar? The threaded part is on the back of the chuck, not on the spindle, and it is a normal right-hand thread, so you want to drive the top of the ring towards the back of the lathe to loosen it. Put a piece of wood (thick plywood or thicker non-plywood shaped to cradle the chuck on top of the bed before you start driving. If that is as big as it looks, you certainly don't want to find yourself having to catch that chuck in a hurry. Good Luck, DoN. Oh, the collar IS on the spindle, the chuck has threads. |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
"Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message ... On 5/15/2012 9:58 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote: On 2012-05-15, Tom wrote: The 3-jaw chuck has been on for at least a year. I need to change chucks. It mounts on a taper and is drawn in and pushed off with a threaded collar. The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. Any ideas from someone familiar with a RP? Here's a pix of one like mine. http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mn...?091006/8905/2 O.K. That looks like a L-00 (or likely larger) spindle nose. Of course no photo shows the spindle nose with no chuck installed, but at least one view from the back shows the notched collar. I don't have a RP, but my 12x24" Clausing has a L-00 spindle so I am familiar with removing and installing chucks and collet closers. Which way are you trying to drive the collar? The threaded part is on the back of the chuck, not on the spindle, and it is a normal right-hand thread, so you want to drive the top of the ring towards the back of the lathe to loosen it. Put a piece of wood (thick plywood or thicker non-plywood shaped to cradle the chuck on top of the bed before you start driving. If that is as big as it looks, you certainly don't want to find yourself having to catch that chuck in a hurry. Good Luck, DoN. Oh, the collar IS on the spindle, the chuck has threads. Here ya go: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Armstrong-33...em43afad 8a2d Where's Altoooovez when you need him? Best Regards Tom. -- http://fija.org/ |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
On 5/15/2012 11:00 PM, azotic wrote:
"Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message ... On 5/15/2012 9:58 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote: On 2012-05-15, Tom wrote: The 3-jaw chuck has been on for at least a year. I need to change chucks. It mounts on a taper and is drawn in and pushed off with a threaded collar. The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. Any ideas from someone familiar with a RP? Here's a pix of one like mine. http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mn...?091006/8905/2 O.K. That looks like a L-00 (or likely larger) spindle nose. Of course no photo shows the spindle nose with no chuck installed, but at least one view from the back shows the notched collar. I don't have a RP, but my 12x24" Clausing has a L-00 spindle so I am familiar with removing and installing chucks and collet closers. Which way are you trying to drive the collar? The threaded part is on the back of the chuck, not on the spindle, and it is a normal right-hand thread, so you want to drive the top of the ring towards the back of the lathe to loosen it. Put a piece of wood (thick plywood or thicker non-plywood shaped to cradle the chuck on top of the bed before you start driving. If that is as big as it looks, you certainly don't want to find yourself having to catch that chuck in a hurry. Good Luck, DoN. Oh, the collar IS on the spindle, the chuck has threads. Here ya go: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Armstrong-33...em43afad 8a2d Where's Altoooovez when you need him? Best Regards Tom. Yea BABY! That and a twenty foot pipe... |
#13
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Removing chuck from Reed-Prentice lathe
"whoyakidding" wrote in message ... On Tue, 15 May 2012 16:13:41 -0400, "Tom Gardner" wrote: The taper is holding tight after beating the spanner wrench for an hour with a BFH. I even heated the collar. I'll try to get some Kroil in there but it looks like a tough road. First put some heavy duty padding on the ways but make sure you're wearing good quality steel toed boots just in case. Next get the BFH and the heat source and any other tools you've used so far out of the way. Then at a convenient predetermined time have RogerN pray the chuck onto the padding. Probably he can't tie his own shoes, either.. |
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