I finally have got enough time to look at my trailer and tried to find
out why electricals were [mostly] not working. I did some standard
troubleshooting tricks and found out that I have a bad ground
connection. When I cleaned up an area of the trailer with an angle
grinder and hooked up a 12v negative to that, instead of white on the
plug, the lights lit up.

This trailer uses the body of the trailer as a negative ground. I have
a feeling that it does not work well after rust sets in.

I would like to ask if it makes sence to just redo it all, rip out and
throw everything away, and make new wiring.

Since I have forklifts, I can easily turn the trailer to the side or
upside down.



i

Ignoramus15400 wrote:
I finally have got enough time to look at my trailer and tried to find
out why electricals were [mostly] not working. I did some standard
troubleshooting tricks and found out that I have a bad ground
connection. When I cleaned up an area of the trailer with an angle
grinder and hooked up a 12v negative to that, instead of white on the
plug, the lights lit up.

This trailer uses the body of the trailer as a negative ground. I have
a feeling that it does not work well after rust sets in.

Just like 99% of trailers out there.


I would like to ask if it makes sence to just redo it all, rip out and
throw everything away, and make new wiring.

That would be the best way. Use a standard trailer color code and run
power/ground to ALL lights.

Run the wiring in conduit and on the front end install a sealed junction
box. In it connect all the grounds to one point. All the markers to
another, turn signals and such go to their own spots.
When you do this I would suggest adding back-up lights. Charging circuit
for on-board battery. Plus any other items you might want later.


Since I have forklifts, I can easily turn the trailer to the side or
upside down.



i



--
Steve W.

On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:

I finally have got enough time to look at my trailer and tried to find
out why electricals were [mostly] not working. I did some standard
troubleshooting tricks and found out that I have a bad ground
connection. When I cleaned up an area of the trailer with an angle
grinder and hooked up a 12v negative to that, instead of white on the
plug, the lights lit up.

This trailer uses the body of the trailer as a negative ground. I have
a feeling that it does not work well after rust sets in.

It was built like a damned Brit car, eh? That sucks. ;/


I would like to ask if it makes sence to just redo it all, rip out and
throw everything away, and make new wiring.

Absolutely. It'll take you 1-3 hours and cost under $50, unless you
already have some UV-rated extension cabling. Does it have a channel
or box frame? Feed it through a box frame or clip it to channel. Run
separate grounds, then ground through the connector. I prefer 7-wire.


Since I have forklifts, I can easily turn the trailer to the side or
upside down.

Sure! You could flip it up and lean it securely and safely, just like
this guy did to weld his gas tank: http://goo.gl/4Bxoe ( NOT! )

--
Win first, Fight later.

--martial principle of the Samurai

On 2012-01-02, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:

I finally have got enough time to look at my trailer and tried to find
out why electricals were [mostly] not working. I did some standard
troubleshooting tricks and found out that I have a bad ground
connection. When I cleaned up an area of the trailer with an angle
grinder and hooked up a 12v negative to that, instead of white on the
plug, the lights lit up.

This trailer uses the body of the trailer as a negative ground. I have
a feeling that it does not work well after rust sets in.

It was built like a damned Brit car, eh? That sucks. ;/

OK, what kind of cable should I use, to avoid deterioration over the
years in Illinois weather.

i

On 1/1/2012 9:18 PM, Ignoramus15400 wrote:
On 2012-01-02, Larry wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:

I finally have got enough time to look at my trailer and tried to find
out why electricals were [mostly] not working. I did some standard
troubleshooting tricks and found out that I have a bad ground
connection. When I cleaned up an area of the trailer with an angle
grinder and hooked up a 12v negative to that, instead of white on the
plug, the lights lit up.

This trailer uses the body of the trailer as a negative ground. I have
a feeling that it does not work well after rust sets in.

It was built like a damned Brit car, eh? That sucks. ;/

OK, what kind of cable should I use, to avoid deterioration over the
years in Illinois weather.

i


Normal trailer wiring harness - inside PCV pipe.

On 2012-01-02, Richard wrote:
On 1/1/2012 9:18 PM, Ignoramus15400 wrote:
On 2012-01-02, Larry wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:

I finally have got enough time to look at my trailer and tried to find
out why electricals were [mostly] not working. I did some standard
troubleshooting tricks and found out that I have a bad ground
connection. When I cleaned up an area of the trailer with an angle
grinder and hooked up a 12v negative to that, instead of white on the
plug, the lights lit up.

This trailer uses the body of the trailer as a negative ground. I have
a feeling that it does not work well after rust sets in.

It was built like a damned Brit car, eh? That sucks. ;/

OK, what kind of cable should I use, to avoid deterioration over the
years in Illinois weather.

i


Normal trailer wiring harness - inside PCV pipe.

I am sorry, but what do you mean by "normal trailer wiring harness"? I
thought that I would need to do all wiring connections from individual
wires?

i

Ignoramus15400 wrote:
On 2012-01-02, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:

I finally have got enough time to look at my trailer and tried to find
out why electricals were [mostly] not working. I did some standard
troubleshooting tricks and found out that I have a bad ground
connection. When I cleaned up an area of the trailer with an angle
grinder and hooked up a 12v negative to that, instead of white on the
plug, the lights lit up.

This trailer uses the body of the trailer as a negative ground. I have
a feeling that it does not work well after rust sets in.
It was built like a damned Brit car, eh? That sucks. ;/

OK, what kind of cable should I use, to avoid deterioration over the
years in Illinois weather.

i

Use common trailer harness wiring and you can redo it in another 3 years.

Use GOOD wire inside conduit and run separate grounds and feeds for each
light.
Seal the connections and use good components, use LED lights and you won't
need to touch it for over 20 years unless you crash it.

Make it so that you can replace the plug and the stinger cable on the
vehicle
end, that way when you forget to unhook it OR a hitch fails you can just
replace
the stinger without tearing out the rest of the harness.

Use a common trailer harness clipped to the frame and you can replace it
in 3-4 years just like you are now.
Also make sure you use a coupler end that has enough connections for all
the points you have including ground.
That may take a 6 pin or a 7 pin.
--
Steve W.

On 1/1/2012 10:34 PM, Ignoramus15400 wrote:
On 2012-01-02, wrote:
On 1/1/2012 9:18 PM, Ignoramus15400 wrote:
On 2012-01-02, Larry wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:

I finally have got enough time to look at my trailer and tried to find
out why electricals were [mostly] not working. I did some standard
troubleshooting tricks and found out that I have a bad ground
connection. When I cleaned up an area of the trailer with an angle
grinder and hooked up a 12v negative to that, instead of white on the
plug, the lights lit up.

This trailer uses the body of the trailer as a negative ground. I have
a feeling that it does not work well after rust sets in.

It was built like a damned Brit car, eh? That sucks. ;/

OK, what kind of cable should I use, to avoid deterioration over the
years in Illinois weather.

i


Normal trailer wiring harness - inside PCV pipe.

I am sorry, but what do you mean by "normal trailer wiring harness"? I
thought that I would need to do all wiring connections from individual
wires?

i

Trailer wiring harnesses are available off the shelf in many connector
types and wire lengths.
16 ga for light circuits but heavier for other uses...
12 for brakes - hmmm - I missed that one.

All details at: http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

As you're certainly not the first to do this, what you need
is a replacement, sealed, modular wiring harness.

Unless you need/want to invest in the tools, connectors, etc
gary


I finally have got enough time to look at my trailer and tried to find
out why electricals were [mostly] not working. I did some standard
troubleshooting tricks and found out that I have a bad ground
connection. When I cleaned up an area of the trailer with an angle
grinder and hooked up a 12v negative to that, instead of white on the
plug, the lights lit up.

This trailer uses the body of the trailer as a negative ground. I have
a feeling that it does not work well after rust sets in.

I would like to ask if it makes sence to just redo it all, rip out and
throw everything away, and make new wiring.

Since I have forklifts, I can easily turn the trailer to the side or
upside down.



i

On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:

I finally have got enough time to look at my trailer and tried to find
out why electricals were [mostly] not working. I did some standard
troubleshooting tricks and found out that I have a bad ground
connection. When I cleaned up an area of the trailer with an angle
grinder and hooked up a 12v negative to that, instead of white on the
plug, the lights lit up.

Yes. White is typically used for other features on newer vehicle/hookups

This trailer uses the body of the trailer as a negative ground. I have
a feeling that it does not work well after rust sets in.

Ya think?

I would like to ask if it makes sence to just redo it all, rip out and
throw everything away, and make new wiring.

Or simply get out the cupwheel on the angle grinder, remove the ground
stud and clean it up a bit, put the wire back on the stud with a
lockwasher..then spritz a bit of paint over it, then go on to the next
one..you have at the least..3 ground areas that need clean up


Since I have forklifts, I can easily turn the trailer to the side or
upside down.



i

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 21:18:21 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:

On 2012-01-02, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:

I finally have got enough time to look at my trailer and tried to find
out why electricals were [mostly] not working. I did some standard
troubleshooting tricks and found out that I have a bad ground
connection. When I cleaned up an area of the trailer with an angle
grinder and hooked up a 12v negative to that, instead of white on the
plug, the lights lit up.

This trailer uses the body of the trailer as a negative ground. I have
a feeling that it does not work well after rust sets in.

It was built like a damned Brit car, eh? That sucks. ;/

OK, what kind of cable should I use, to avoid deterioration over the
years in Illinois weather.

Why, the -good- stuff, of course. groan Look for "trailer cable".
http://www.awcwire.com/ProductSpec.a...=Trailer-Cable etc.

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx Handy reference.

--
Win first, Fight later.

--martial principle of the Samurai

On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 22:34:45 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:

On 2012-01-02, Richard wrote:
On 1/1/2012 9:18 PM, Ignoramus15400 wrote:
On 2012-01-02, Larry wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:

I finally have got enough time to look at my trailer and tried to find
out why electricals were [mostly] not working. I did some standard
troubleshooting tricks and found out that I have a bad ground
connection. When I cleaned up an area of the trailer with an angle
grinder and hooked up a 12v negative to that, instead of white on the
plug, the lights lit up.

This trailer uses the body of the trailer as a negative ground. I have
a feeling that it does not work well after rust sets in.

It was built like a damned Brit car, eh? That sucks. ;/

OK, what kind of cable should I use, to avoid deterioration over the
years in Illinois weather.

i


Normal trailer wiring harness - inside PCV pipe.

I am sorry, but what do you mean by "normal trailer wiring harness"? I
thought that I would need to do all wiring connections from individual
wires?

I've always used jacketed cable and only pulled out wires for the
terminations. I'd slit the jacket, expose the ground/backup wires,
solder leads onto them, and then tape well.

Get a holder for your black tape. It makes it much easier to wrap
cable. I've made 20' harnesses this way, too. It takes great
patience.

When I was looking for a holder to refer you to, this image came up
and caught my eye. It might be best to keep it in your office at the
warehouse, not at home. wink http://goo.gl/VLjGo It's for Japanese
Scotch tape, I think.

This is more like the holder I have: http://goo.gl/b8Lyw The
circular depression wraps around the wires while you wrap. It keeps
the tape tighter than winding by hand, and helps prevent wrinkles,
keeping the harness drier.

Another tip: If you ever loan out the trailer or use other people's
vehicles to tow it, install a 4-wire cable end in addition to the 7
and keep a couple extra vehicle ends so you can quickly hook up if you
need to. They're a couple bucks each, plus scotchblocks.
http://goo.gl/Sahwi


--
Win first, Fight later.

--martial principle of the Samurai

On 1/2/2012 14:41, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:
I would like to ask if it makes sence to just redo it all, rip out and
throw everything away, and make new wiring.

Or simply get out the cupwheel on the angle grinder, remove the ground
stud and clean it up a bit, put the wire back on the stud with a
lockwasher..then spritz a bit of paint over it, then go on to the next
one..you have at the least..3 ground areas that need clean up

I'd do this once and if it fails in less than 10 years,
redo the wiring then.. Why bother if it works..

Kristian Ukkonen.

On Mon, 02 Jan 2012 18:06:15 +0200, Kristian Ukkonen
wrote:

On 1/2/2012 14:41, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:
I would like to ask if it makes sence to just redo it all, rip out and
throw everything away, and make new wiring.

Or simply get out the cupwheel on the angle grinder, remove the ground
stud and clean it up a bit, put the wire back on the stud with a
lockwasher..then spritz a bit of paint over it, then go on to the next
one..you have at the least..3 ground areas that need clean up

I'd do this once and if it fails in less than 10 years,
redo the wiring then.. Why bother if it works..

Because you really don't want to drive out 100 miles, pick something
up, and realize that the lighting system has gone out on you. Murphy
says: this usually happens when it's dark and raining or snowing.

Simple tickets have a tendency of costing a minimum of $262 nowadays,
for "court costs".

--
In the depth of winter, I finally learned
that within me there lay an invincible summer.
-- Albert Camus

On Mon, 02 Jan 2012 18:06:15 +0200, Kristian Ukkonen
wrote:

On 1/2/2012 14:41, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:
I would like to ask if it makes sence to just redo it all, rip out and
throw everything away, and make new wiring.

Or simply get out the cupwheel on the angle grinder, remove the ground
stud and clean it up a bit, put the wire back on the stud with a
lockwasher..then spritz a bit of paint over it, then go on to the next
one..you have at the least..3 ground areas that need clean up

I'd do this once and if it fails in less than 10 years,
redo the wiring then.. Why bother if it works..

Kristian Ukkonen.

Bingo!

Oh..Piva!!

Gunner, 1/2 Finn



One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Mon, 02 Jan 2012 13:23:49 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Jan 2012 18:06:15 +0200, Kristian Ukkonen
wrote:

On 1/2/2012 14:41, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:
I would like to ask if it makes sence to just redo it all, rip out and
throw everything away, and make new wiring.

Or simply get out the cupwheel on the angle grinder, remove the ground
stud and clean it up a bit, put the wire back on the stud with a
lockwasher..then spritz a bit of paint over it, then go on to the next
one..you have at the least..3 ground areas that need clean up

I'd do this once and if it fails in less than 10 years,
redo the wiring then.. Why bother if it works..

Because you really don't want to drive out 100 miles, pick something
up, and realize that the lighting system has gone out on you. Murphy
says: this usually happens when it's dark and raining or snowing.

Simple tickets have a tendency of costing a minimum of $262 nowadays,
for "court costs".

If you do the clean up work properly..the lighting isnt going to go out
in 100 miles, unless you were hit from the rear by a semi

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On 2012-01-03, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jan 2012 13:23:49 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Jan 2012 18:06:15 +0200, Kristian Ukkonen
wrote:

On 1/2/2012 14:41, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:
I would like to ask if it makes sence to just redo it all, rip out and
throw everything away, and make new wiring.

Or simply get out the cupwheel on the angle grinder, remove the ground
stud and clean it up a bit, put the wire back on the stud with a
lockwasher..then spritz a bit of paint over it, then go on to the next
one..you have at the least..3 ground areas that need clean up

I'd do this once and if it fails in less than 10 years,
redo the wiring then.. Why bother if it works..

Because you really don't want to drive out 100 miles, pick something
up, and realize that the lighting system has gone out on you. Murphy
says: this usually happens when it's dark and raining or snowing.

Simple tickets have a tendency of costing a minimum of $262 nowadays,
for "court costs".

If you do the clean up work properly..the lighting isnt going to go out
in 100 miles, unless you were hit from the rear by a semi

I have a special copper-filled conductive grease, which, I hope, will
make a difference.

i

On Mon, 02 Jan 2012 06:42:17 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Another tip: If you ever loan out the trailer or use other people's
vehicles to tow it, install a 4-wire cable end in addition to the 7
and keep a couple extra vehicle ends so you can quickly hook up if you
need to. They're a couple bucks each, plus scotchblocks.
http://goo.gl/Sahwi

No way will I lend my big flat deck trailer to anyone except my
sons. If asked, I question if the would-be borrower has (1) electric
brakes (2) a 14 pin double row flat socket on the car. That kills
the "loan" every time. No problem lending my worn out 7 x 4 box
trailer, it has a standard 7 pin plug. All our vehicles have
standard round 6 & 7 pin sockets + the 14 pin.

Alan

In article ,
Ignoramus16953 wrote:

On 2012-01-03, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jan 2012 13:23:49 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Jan 2012 18:06:15 +0200, Kristian Ukkonen
wrote:

On 1/2/2012 14:41, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:36 -0600, Ignoramus15400
wrote:
I would like to ask if it makes sence to just redo it all, rip out and
throw everything away, and make new wiring.

Or simply get out the cupwheel on the angle grinder, remove the ground
stud and clean it up a bit, put the wire back on the stud with a
lockwasher..then spritz a bit of paint over it, then go on to the next
one..you have at the least..3 ground areas that need clean up

I'd do this once and if it fails in less than 10 years,
redo the wiring then.. Why bother if it works..

Because you really don't want to drive out 100 miles, pick something
up, and realize that the lighting system has gone out on you. Murphy
says: this usually happens when it's dark and raining or snowing.

Simple tickets have a tendency of costing a minimum of $262 nowadays,
for "court costs".

If you do the clean up work properly..the lighting isnt going to go out
in 100 miles, unless you were hit from the rear by a semi

I have a special copper-filled conductive grease, which, I hope, will
make a difference.

This sounds like ordinary anti-seize paste. The standard anti-oxidation
paste (used on aluminum wire connections) is zinc dust in silicon grease.

But welding or soldering a piece of copper or brass to the steel frame
will make for a permanent fix.

Joe Gwinn

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
...
But welding or soldering a piece of copper or brass to the steel frame
will make for a permanent fix.
...
Joe Gwinn

I've had good results from tapping a hole and installing a stainless steel
(vehicles) or brass (antennas) grounding screw dipped in LPS3. On the
antennas which don't see road salt Ox-Gard paste lasts for years. I've mixed
brass, steel, stainless and aluminum without corrosion problems up there.

jsw