I have taken a few pictures of my indoor forklift.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Nissan-Forklift/

My first question, do you think that tires need replacement ($700) or
not? Pressing new tires is $700.

My second question is about the side shift. I looked at it and it is
clearly not connected to the forklift in any way. There is two
hydraulic nipples on the reel mount and no lines going to the
forklift.

Why can this be so, realistically, and do you think that it is an easy
DIY job to fix? Do you think that they unhooked it because it was
leaking? Or what would be the typical reason?:

thanks

i

must be hangover from yesterday, ?I meaNT FORKLIFT questions

On 2011-11-06, Ignoramus14302 wrote:
I have taken a few pictures of my indoor forklift.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Nissan-Forklift/

My first question, do you think that tires need replacement ($700) or
not? Pressing new tires is $700.

My second question is about the side shift. I looked at it and it is
clearly not connected to the forklift in any way. There is two
hydraulic nipples on the reel mount and no lines going to the
forklift.

Why can this be so, realistically, and do you think that it is an easy
DIY job to fix? Do you think that they unhooked it because it was
leaking? Or what would be the typical reason?:

thanks

i

Ignoramus14302 wrote:
must be hangover from yesterday, ?I meaNT FORKLIFT questions

On 2011-11-06, Ignoramus14302
wrote:
I have taken a few pictures of my indoor forklift.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Nissan-Forklift/

My first question, do you think that tires need replacement ($700) or
not? Pressing new tires is $700.

My second question is about the side shift. I looked at it and it is
clearly not connected to the forklift in any way. There is two
hydraulic nipples on the reel mount and no lines going to the
forklift.

Why can this be so, realistically, and do you think that it is an
easy DIY job to fix? Do you think that they unhooked it because it
was leaking? Or what would be the typical reason?:

thanks

i
I figgered you musta posted it from your iPhone ... the speelchuck is well
known for stuff like that .
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

On 11/6/2011 11:12 AM, Ignoramus14302 wrote:
I have taken a few pictures of my indoor forklift.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Nissan-Forklift/

My first question, do you think that tires need replacement ($700) or
not? Pressing new tires is $700.

My second question is about the side shift. I looked at it and it is
clearly not connected to the forklift in any way. There is two
hydraulic nipples on the reel mount and no lines going to the
forklift.

Why can this be so, realistically, and do you think that it is an easy
DIY job to fix? Do you think that they unhooked it because it was
leaking? Or what would be the typical reason?:

thanks

i
I just got back from the plant after doing some forklift work. We don't
like to run it while people are there working. Even propane exhaust stinks!

Yes, your tires look very worn. Measure the thickness at several places
and compare the most worn area to new tires. Then you will know for sure.

As far as the side shift, look at the cylinder and see if the
connections have been capped or plugged. If so, remove and try to force
the fork assembly to move. If no caps, try to move the assembly.

The pictures show damage to the fork assembly and perhaps some welding
repairs. Is the bent part binding the side shift assembly?

I suspect the assembly is bound up somewhere and would stick to one side
or the other, so someone solved the problem be centering the assembly
and then removing the hoses.

Just my $0.02 worth!

Paul

On Sun, 06 Nov 2011 13:12:46 -0600, Ignoramus14302
wrote:

I have taken a few pictures of my indoor forklift.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Nissan-Forklift/

My first question, do you think that tires need replacement ($700) or
not? Pressing new tires is $700.

My second question is about the side shift. I looked at it and it is
clearly not connected to the forklift in any way. There is two
hydraulic nipples on the reel mount and no lines going to the
forklift.

Why can this be so, realistically, and do you think that it is an easy
DIY job to fix? Do you think that they unhooked it because it was
leaking? Or what would be the typical reason?:

thanks

i

I wouldn't put $700 into tires if it was me. You're only going to use
this 1 - 2 hours a week right?

Why don't you try air pressure to move the forks side to side. You can
see if something is bent that way. I doubt somebody would disable this
valuable feature over a minor leak but you never know.

My view on fork lifts - use them as you bought them. Then get another
when it dies. Or you might buy another entire lift for $700 and use it
as the donor machine. There are a LOT of old fork lifts out there.

Karl

On 2011-11-06, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sun, 06 Nov 2011 13:12:46 -0600, Ignoramus14302
wrote:

I have taken a few pictures of my indoor forklift.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Nissan-Forklift/

My first question, do you think that tires need replacement ($700) or
not? Pressing new tires is $700.

My second question is about the side shift. I looked at it and it is
clearly not connected to the forklift in any way. There is two
hydraulic nipples on the reel mount and no lines going to the
forklift.

Why can this be so, realistically, and do you think that it is an easy
DIY job to fix? Do you think that they unhooked it because it was
leaking? Or what would be the typical reason?:

thanks

i

I wouldn't put $700 into tires if it was me. You're only going to use
this 1 - 2 hours a week right?

I think that it is close to an hour per day so far. It has only been 2
days, so I cannot tell with certainty. Probably 4-6 hours per week.


Why don't you try air pressure to move the forks side to side. You can
see if something is bent that way. I doubt somebody would disable this
valuable feature over a minor leak but you never know.

Good point.

My view on fork lifts - use them as you bought them. Then get another
when it dies. Or you might buy another entire lift for $700 and use it
as the donor machine. There are a LOT of old fork lifts out there.

I like this, intuitively, but I like screwing with stuff, which I
think is not always a good habit. I will try to wait with wheels. I
think, though, that new wheels will make it easier to ride it on
gravel. But then again, if I fix the brakes on the Cat, it will not be
that necessary.

i

On Nov 6, 5:38*pm, Ignoramus14302 ignoramus14...@NOSPAM.
14302.invalid wrote:
On 2011-11-06, Karl Townsend wrote:





On Sun, 06 Nov 2011 13:12:46 -0600, Ignoramus14302
wrote:

I have taken a few pictures of my indoor forklift.

*http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Nissan-Forklift/

My first question, do you think that tires need replacement ($700) or
not? Pressing new tires is $700.

My second question is about the side shift. I looked at it and it is
clearly not connected to the forklift in any way. There is two
hydraulic nipples on the reel mount and no lines going to the
forklift.

Why can this be so, realistically, and do you think that it is an easy
DIY job to fix? Do you think that they unhooked it because it was
leaking? Or what would be the typical reason?:

thanks

i

I wouldn't put $700 into tires if it was me. You're only going to use
this 1 - 2 hours a week right?

I think that it is close to an hour per day so far. It has only been 2
days, so I cannot tell with certainty. Probably 4-6 hours per week.

Why don't you try air pressure to move the forks side to side. You can
see if something is bent that way. I doubt somebody would disable this
valuable feature over a minor leak but you never know.

Good point.

My view on fork lifts - use them as you bought them. Then get another
when it dies. Or you might buy another entire lift for $700 and use it
as the donor machine. There are a LOT of old fork lifts out there.

I like this, intuitively, but I like screwing with stuff, which I
think is not always a good habit. I will try to wait with wheels. I
think, though, that new wheels will make it easier to ride it on
gravel. But then again, if I fix the brakes on the Cat, it will not be
that necessary.

i- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Good plan.

Forklifts are like trailers...if it doesn't serve your purpose, go
find the next one that does.

TMT

On Sun, 06 Nov 2011 13:12:46 -0600, Ignoramus14302
wrote:

I have taken a few pictures of my indoor forklift.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Nissan-Forklift/

My first question, do you think that tires need replacement ($700) or
not? Pressing new tires is $700.

My second question is about the side shift. I looked at it and it is
clearly not connected to the forklift in any way. There is two
hydraulic nipples on the reel mount and no lines going to the
forklift.

Why can this be so, realistically, and do you think that it is an easy
DIY job to fix? Do you think that they unhooked it because it was
leaking? Or what would be the typical reason?:

thanks

i

1, Your tires are fine.
2. The sideshift was probably disconnected after some dickwad
sideshifted and nearly overturned the forklift.

Mine came unhooked as well. Got hoses and it works just fine

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On 2011-11-07, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 06 Nov 2011 13:12:46 -0600, Ignoramus14302
wrote:

I have taken a few pictures of my indoor forklift.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Nissan-Forklift/

My first question, do you think that tires need replacement ($700) or
not? Pressing new tires is $700.

My second question is about the side shift. I looked at it and it is
clearly not connected to the forklift in any way. There is two
hydraulic nipples on the reel mount and no lines going to the
forklift.

Why can this be so, realistically, and do you think that it is an easy
DIY job to fix? Do you think that they unhooked it because it was
leaking? Or what would be the typical reason?:

thanks

i

1, Your tires are fine.
2. The sideshift was probably disconnected after some dickwad
sideshifted and nearly overturned the forklift.

Mine came unhooked as well. Got hoses and it works just fine


This is great and what I personally suspect also. I will indeed do
this. I will try compressed air first.

i

On 2011-11-06, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 11/6/2011 11:12 AM, Ignoramus14302 wrote:
I have taken a few pictures of my indoor forklift.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Nissan-Forklift/

My first question, do you think that tires need replacement ($700) or
not? Pressing new tires is $700.

My second question is about the side shift. I looked at it and it is
clearly not connected to the forklift in any way. There is two
hydraulic nipples on the reel mount and no lines going to the
forklift.

Why can this be so, realistically, and do you think that it is an easy
DIY job to fix? Do you think that they unhooked it because it was
leaking? Or what would be the typical reason?:

thanks

i
I just got back from the plant after doing some forklift work. We don't
like to run it while people are there working. Even propane exhaust stinks!

Yes, your tires look very worn. Measure the thickness at several places
and compare the most worn area to new tires. Then you will know for sure.

As far as the side shift, look at the cylinder and see if the
connections have been capped or plugged. If so, remove and try to force
the fork assembly to move. If no caps, try to move the assembly.

The pictures show damage to the fork assembly and perhaps some welding
repairs. Is the bent part binding the side shift assembly?

I suspect the assembly is bound up somewhere and would stick to one side
or the other, so someone solved the problem be centering the assembly
and then removing the hoses.

Just my $0.02 worth!

Paul

Paul, thanks. I will check it out in some depth soon. Great ideas.

i

On 2011-11-08, jeff wrote:
Iggi, I can't tell if there even is a cylinder on this sideshifter.
Looks like its missing. If there is one on there then find some
hoses and hook them up and see what happens. If the truck drives
kinda smooth then I would run those tires. They look chunky.

The ride (even on smooth floor) is kind of bumpy due to chunky tires.

A lot bigger issue with this lift will be what kind of loads you will
be lifting with this thing. The heels of the forks look worn badly,
probably due to worn lift chains and or worn tires. They look like
they have been dragging on the floor for a while. That will seriously
decrease the lifts lifting capacity

What do you mean by heels of the forks? I am sorry. Do you mean where
the bottom of forks touches the forklift?

I am kinda hoping that I can move 5,000 lbs with it.

i

On 2011-11-08, jeff wrote:
On Sun, 06 Nov 2011 13:12:46 -0600, Ignoramus14302
wrote:

I have taken a few pictures of my indoor forklift.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Nissan-Forklift/

My first question, do you think that tires need replacement ($700) or
not? Pressing new tires is $700.

My second question is about the side shift. I looked at it and it is
clearly not connected to the forklift in any way. There is two
hydraulic nipples on the reel mount and no lines going to the
forklift.

Why can this be so, realistically, and do you think that it is an easy
DIY job to fix? Do you think that they unhooked it because it was
leaking? Or what would be the typical reason?:

thanks

i
Upon second look... no sideshift cylinder.. the sideshifter had
plates welded to the carriage locking it in place. Why someone would
do this rather then repair is beyond me... What else may have been
repaired on the cheap?

As far as other replies as to sideshifts causing roll overs, All
lifts are rated for specific loads at certain heights with
attachments, a sideshifter being an attachment. If all is well with
the lift and an operator isn't doing anything stupid then a lift will
not tip over. Then again with the stupid factor, all bets are off.

I will look at it again tomorrow or the day after.

Fork list:

1. Salad fork
2. Soup fork
3. Gravy fork
4. Steak Fork

etc.

I'm still trying to figure out what is a "foork". "Foork
calling Forson! Come in, Forson!" Foork and Findy?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 2011-11-08, jeff wrote:
On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 19:52:01 -0600, Ignoramus29635
wrote:

On 2011-11-08, jeff wrote:
Iggi, I can't tell if there even is a cylinder on this sideshifter.
Looks like its missing. If there is one on there then find some
hoses and hook them up and see what happens. If the truck drives
kinda smooth then I would run those tires. They look chunky.

The ride (even on smooth floor) is kind of bumpy due to chunky tires.

A lot bigger issue with this lift will be what kind of loads you will
be lifting with this thing. The heels of the forks look worn badly,
probably due to worn lift chains and or worn tires. They look like
they have been dragging on the floor for a while. That will seriously
decrease the lifts lifting capacity

What do you mean by heels of the forks? I am sorry. Do you mean where
the bottom of forks touches the forklift?

I am kinda hoping that I can move 5,000 lbs with it.

i
this is a link to cascades fork page

http://www.cascorp.com/downloads/links/3014162/$FILE/ForkArmWearCaliperGuide.pdf

This was great. I will measure everything. Thanks.

At the very least the drive tires should be replaced as this will
smoothen out the ride, all four would be nice. I don't know how
much money you have in this thing

I bought this thing for $500. Four tires press-on replacement costs
$760. Which is something I would not actually mind doing, if it
improves handling of this forklift. I am just not experienced enough
to tell if it would.

but if a dealer gets a hold of it your wallet will get lighter in a
hurry. A local tech would be the way to go if there are any in your
area.

Ack about dealers. They want $100 per hour just to come to my
building. I asked two of them for a quote on parts, no one even got
back to me, despite promising to do so.

The heel is the position that transfers to a vertical point on the
fork . There is almost never any wear on the vertical part of a fork,
most will be at the bottom rear (heel) due to worn tires, worn not
adjusted chains. This is where a fork will bend, break under load.
If your an inch of the ground with a stable load, scary but probably
ok. 8 to 10" with a nice piece of equipment and you ain't going be
happy.

I got it. I will carefully measure the forks.

It also looks like the side shift hanger bearings are worn badly or
even missing as well. This would cause the side shifter to not work
even it everything else was hooked up.

There should also be another two hoses coming down the mast from the
hose reel to the front on the machine then to the third function hydro
valve (side shift). It looks like those hoses are missing as well.

They are missing.

Looking at the data plate should tell you the rated load. Looks like
42 inch forks. 5,000 lbs will probably be a bit much without knowing
what the data plate says

This is a Nissan model C50, with 60 inch forks (I measured).

Any idea what I can lift with it?


Trying to not be negative but not working too well....

And I appreciate it.

Forklift tech for 25 years or so... I've seen lots of cobbled stuff
over the years. All is fine until someone gets hurt. Then **** hits
the fan. You running the lift is one thing, someone else might cost
you big time.

Thanks a lot for your opinions.

i

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 22:04:33 -0500, jeff wrote:


Forklift tech for 25 years or so... I've seen lots of cobbled stuff
over the years. All is fine until someone gets hurt. Then **** hits
the fan. You running the lift is one thing, someone else might cost
you big time.

If you ever stumble across a Baker/Linde B PL-30 forklift (hydrostatic
drive)..I need the electronic speed control modual that bolts to the
firewall and operates the carby, and maintains the engine speed, no
matter the load.

Propane carburation with a big solenoid that opens/closes the throttle
via that paperback dictionary sized box of electronics.

Need one really badly

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 23:52:58 -0600, Ignoramus29635
wrote:

Looking at the data plate should tell you the rated load. Looks like
42 inch forks. 5,000 lbs will probably be a bit much without knowing
what the data plate says

This is a Nissan model C50, with 60 inch forks (I measured).

Any idea what I can lift with it?

Make: Nissan
Capacity: 5000
Year: 1997
Hours: 9684
Tire Type: Cushion
Fuel: LPG
Mast Type: Three Stage
Mast Lift Height: 187
Attachment: Sideshifter
Unit#: L-750
Clean Used Nissan C50 Forklift. This Unit Is A Rental Retirement
& A Great Buy! Excellent Warehouse Forklift W/ New Tires & Recently
Painted! 30 Day Powertrain Warranty.


Our Price:$6,532.49


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

Ignoramus29635 wrote:
On 2011-11-08, jeff wrote:
Iggi, I can't tell if there even is a cylinder on this sideshifter.
Looks like its missing. If there is one on there then find some
hoses and hook them up and see what happens. If the truck drives
kinda smooth then I would run those tires. They look chunky.

The ride (even on smooth floor) is kind of bumpy due to chunky tires.

A lot bigger issue with this lift will be what kind of loads you will
be lifting with this thing. The heels of the forks look worn badly,
probably due to worn lift chains and or worn tires. They look like
they have been dragging on the floor for a while. That will seriously
decrease the lifts lifting capacity

What do you mean by heels of the forks? I am sorry. Do you mean where
the bottom of forks touches the forklift?

The heel of the forks are the area of the forks right at the bend of the
steel. Notice how the steel is thicker about 6" or so away from the
bend? The difference between the thick part and the worn part is where
the problem is.

Oh and if the ride is bumpy when you're on a smooth surface replace the
tires. They get to the point where the load on the rubber is high enough
to split them (the rims and floor work like a pair of dikes and the
pressure crushes the rubber till it shears.


I am kinda hoping that I can move 5,000 lbs with it.

i


--
Steve W.

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 22:51:23 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 22:04:33 -0500, jeff wrote:


Forklift tech for 25 years or so... I've seen lots of cobbled stuff
over the years. All is fine until someone gets hurt. Then **** hits
the fan. You running the lift is one thing, someone else might cost
you big time.

If you ever stumble across a Baker/Linde B PL-30 forklift (hydrostatic
drive)..I need the electronic speed control modual that bolts to the
firewall and operates the carby, and maintains the engine speed, no
matter the load.

Propane carburation with a big solenoid that opens/closes the throttle
via that paperback dictionary sized box of electronics.

Need one really badly

If all else fails... You might be able to switch over to a mechanical
governor, or an electronic one meant for a generator set.

Don't raise the drawbridge, Lower the river. ;-)

They do have belt-drive governors with fancy linkage set-ups where you
have a manual slider on the dash like a lawnmower to set the speed, or
a potentiometer for the electronic ones, and the governor arm runs the
throttle to hold your engine speed set-point.

Does the big solenoid run a butterfly valve on a throttle body, or is
it directly pulsing the fuel/air supply?

And Plan C is a hydraulic cylinder on the main pump that cuts the
throttle as system pressure increases - so if you aren't moving and
you hit the lift hydraulics, the drop in pump pressure off the relief
set-point gasses the engine to match. There have to be old-school
mechanical solutions for that, for ancient fork trucks.

-- Bruce --

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 17:46:13 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:


Oh and if the ride is bumpy when you're on a smooth surface replace the
tires. They get to the point where the load on the rubber is high enough
to split them (the rims and floor work like a pair of dikes and the
pressure crushes the rubber till it shears.

Eventually it gets bad enough where the tire rubber comes totally off
where it's vulcanized to the steel ring at the center, and the tire
falls off. Then you aren't going anywhere.

If it's bad enough, and you plan to keep the truck for a few years,
get the tires done.

Keep the receipt, you might get a few extra bucks at resale ("Tires
only have 25 miles and 40 hours on them!") if you have to sell it
faster than you thought.

Wonder if they make little Hubodometers in Forklift sizes... I know
they don't for 4.80X8 or 14" - 15" trailer sizes.

Iggy Wrote:
I am kinda hoping that I can move 5,000 lbs with it.

With the extra long forks (and info from Gunner) you can - BUT.

You'll have to "choke up" on the load - get it up closer to the mast
to be in the normal range of the factory length forks.

If you have your load out on the tip of the forks, you'll have to
derate to (guessing) 3,500# or so. There will be a chart somewhere.

Load too much weight on the forks and/or too far out, and the rear
tires of the forklift will be real light - hit the brakes, and the
rear of the truck will pop up on you as the load drops.

If the load was up high and the pallet falls/rolls off the forks as it
tips way forward, suddenly the 4-ton counterweight is heavier again -
and you land back on the wheels rather violently.

(For a diagram of this, see the "Barrel Of Bricks Trick" - the falling
barrel yanks you up in the air - then the wooden barrel of bricks hits
the ground and the bottom breaks out, and suddenly you're much heavier
than the remains of the barrel.)

If the action didn't get you hurt slamming into the steering wheel
face-first when the truck tipped forward, the equal and opposite
reaction of it all going back down sure the hell will. Bronco Busting
something the size of a bull elephant.

Never Push It Too Far - that's how people get hurt, sometimes killed.

-- Bruce --

On 11/6/2011 5:38 PM, Ignoramus14302 wrote:
On 2011-11-06, Karl wrote:
On Sun, 06 Nov 2011 13:12:46 -0600, Ignoramus14302
wrote:

I have taken a few pictures of my indoor forklift.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Nissan-Forklift/

My first question, do you think that tires need replacement ($700) or
not? Pressing new tires is $700.

My second question is about the side shift. I looked at it and it is
clearly not connected to the forklift in any way. There is two
hydraulic nipples on the reel mount and no lines going to the
forklift.

Why can this be so, realistically, and do you think that it is an easy
DIY job to fix? Do you think that they unhooked it because it was
leaking? Or what would be the typical reason?:

thanks

i

I wouldn't put $700 into tires if it was me. You're only going to use
this 1 - 2 hours a week right?

I think that it is close to an hour per day so far. It has only been 2
days, so I cannot tell with certainty. Probably 4-6 hours per week.


Why don't you try air pressure to move the forks side to side. You can
see if something is bent that way. I doubt somebody would disable this
valuable feature over a minor leak but you never know.

Good point.

My view on fork lifts - use them as you bought them. Then get another
when it dies. Or you might buy another entire lift for $700 and use it
as the donor machine. There are a LOT of old fork lifts out there.

I like this, intuitively, but I like screwing with stuff, which I
think is not always a good habit. I will try to wait with wheels. I
think, though, that new wheels will make it easier to ride it on
gravel. But then again, if I fix the brakes on the Cat, it will not be
that necessary.

i


I sure wouldn't change tires expecting one of those indoor hard tired
machines to perform off pavement at all. They will get stuck and spin
on a good sized gob of spit. They are marvelous machines on a smooth
hard surface. They are helpless even on hard packed gravel.

On 11/7/2011 5:52 PM, Ignoramus29635 wrote:

I will look at it again tomorrow or the day after.

Iggy, before you get too involved with fork lifts, you need to watch
this German training video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqd4aPs5WTA.

Paul

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 06:51:44 -0800, Paul Drahn
wrote:

On 11/7/2011 5:52 PM, Ignoramus29635 wrote:

I will look at it again tomorrow or the day after.

Iggy, before you get too involved with fork lifts, you need to watch
this German training video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqd4aPs5WTA.

Well put, Paul. Now, Ig. Please be careful with the new forklift or
you may drop something important, as this chap did:
http://goo.gl/zIBLZ

--
Resolve to be thyself: and know, that he who finds himself, loses his misery.
-- Matthew Arnold

On 11/9/2011 9:26 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
....

you may drop something important, as this chap did:
http://goo.gl/zIBLZ
....

I was _sure_ there was a truck there when I last looked, Sarge!!!

--

On 2011-11-09, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 11/7/2011 5:52 PM, Ignoramus29635 wrote:

I will look at it again tomorrow or the day after.

Iggy, before you get too involved with fork lifts, you need to watch
this German training video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqd4aPs5WTA.

Paul

I would say, authors of this particular movie have a very peculiar
sense of humor.

I

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 19:47:04 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 22:51:23 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 22:04:33 -0500, jeff wrote:


Forklift tech for 25 years or so... I've seen lots of cobbled stuff
over the years. All is fine until someone gets hurt. Then **** hits
the fan. You running the lift is one thing, someone else might cost
you big time.

If you ever stumble across a Baker/Linde B PL-30 forklift (hydrostatic
drive)..I need the electronic speed control modual that bolts to the
firewall and operates the carby, and maintains the engine speed, no
matter the load.

Propane carburation with a big solenoid that opens/closes the throttle
via that paperback dictionary sized box of electronics.

Need one really badly

If all else fails... You might be able to switch over to a mechanical
governor, or an electronic one meant for a generator set.

Don't raise the drawbridge, Lower the river. ;-)

They do have belt-drive governors with fancy linkage set-ups where you
have a manual slider on the dash like a lawnmower to set the speed, or
a potentiometer for the electronic ones, and the governor arm runs the
throttle to hold your engine speed set-point.

Does the big solenoid run a butterfly valve on a throttle body, or is
it directly pulsing the fuel/air supply?

It runs the butterfly valve.

And Plan C is a hydraulic cylinder on the main pump that cuts the
throttle as system pressure increases - so if you aren't moving and
you hit the lift hydraulics, the drop in pump pressure off the relief
set-point gasses the engine to match. There have to be old-school
mechanical solutions for that, for ancient fork trucks.

Im not a good enough hybridist to figure out how to do that. Sigh

Ive set the idle up as high as the adjuster will go..which isnt all that
high..and I limp around when I absolutely have to under high idle
power. Which makes using it an utter pain in the ass.

Gunner


-- Bruce --

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch