The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

On Jun 18, 5:59*pm, Ignoramus6708
wrote:
The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

Try Lowe's and Home Depot. Not every store around here stocks it. They
also have painted raised-seam siding that looks better. A few roofing
companies have told me they can't sell it that cheap.

The zinc coating is very thin. I spray LPS3 on every year or so to
keep rust spots from growing.

jsw

Home Depot in our area(southern Indiana) has carried it in the past (have
not checked lately). 8' x 3' sheets if I recall correctly.
Lyndell

"Ignoramus6708" wrote in message
...
The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

"Ignoramus6708" wrote in message
...
The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.


Pick up a nickle ad and find someone who builds pole barns....call and see
if he has any remnants he will sell.

--

On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 16:59:23 -0500, Ignoramus6708
wrote:

The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

Borg, Blowes, larger lumber yards, farm supply yards, other home
improvement stores. It's everywhere.

26" x 8' $12.98 each at the Borg.

--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson

Local farm and ranch store. Used on lots of out buildings.
Thin means lighter to lift and cheaper - fits many a budget.

Martin

On 6/18/2011 4:59 PM, Ignoramus6708 wrote:
The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 16:59:23 -0500, Ignoramus6708
wrote:

The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

Ask the second question...aluminum...or steel

I vote for steel..but I dont live in an area with a lot of rain

Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 15:27:44 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
wrote:

On Jun 18, 5:59*pm, Ignoramus6708
wrote:
The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

Try Lowe's and Home Depot. Not every store around here stocks it. They
also have painted raised-seam siding that looks better. A few roofing
companies have told me they can't sell it that cheap.

Raised seam painted, seems like what Iggy would need to match the
neighborhood. In a dark color



The zinc coating is very thin. I spray LPS3 on every year or so to
keep rust spots from growing.

jsw

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

"Ignoramus6708" wrote in message
...
The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

On 2011-06-19, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 16:59:23 -0500, Ignoramus6708
wrote:

The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

Ask the second question...aluminum...or steel

I vote for steel..but I dont live in an area with a lot of rain

Gunner


I would definitely use aluminum ,is it also available corrugated?

"Ignoramus6708" wrote in message
...
The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

The Borgs have some, but the best place is a local manufacturer or supplier.
Now, easier said than done. Many don't like to sell to the public, as they
have distributors. But they do sell over runs and odd stuff. At times.
Check your local yellow pages. I happen to be lucky enough to be 30 miles
from a Fabral manufacturer, and have snagged some real deals from them,
including, just bring a chain and drag this dog off stuff. I am currently
locating appprox. 1400 sf of Mighty Rib Fabral sheeting. I have about half
of it, and I'll find the other half for 20% of retail if I just wait. For
you, I'd say the Borgs are your only best hope, unless you have a
manufacturer in your area.

Check with manufacturers and distributors for "cover sheets". These are
good sheets that are put on the outside of a bundle and banded on to protect
the pristine inner pieces. Good stuff, just not pristine. And cheap, too.

HTH

Steve

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Jun 18, 5:59 pm, Ignoramus6708
wrote:
The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

Try Lowe's and Home Depot. Not every store around here stocks it. They
also have painted raised-seam siding that looks better. A few roofing
companies have told me they can't sell it that cheap.

The zinc coating is very thin. I spray LPS3 on every year or so to
keep rust spots from growing.

jsw

Does it have to be galvanized? The Mighty Rib I get from Fabral has 11
layers of coatings, and I tell ya, I've let it lay out in the weather, sheet
stacked on sheet, and no rust or galvanic reaction. The stuff at the borgs
isn't quite that good, but hey, it's for a generator shed.

Steve

"Gunner Asch" wrote

Ask the second question...aluminum...or steel

I vote for steel..but I dont live in an area with a lot of rain

Gunner

Fergaddabout aluminum. Flimsy, and rips out easily, plus cost is higher. I
used to get aluminum manufactured home awnings complete from a manufacturer
in Las Vegas, but they had reinforcement at half or less the distance of
steel components. Rain does not bother either aluminum or properly treated
steel. I've seen carports that were 30 years old with no rust, both
galvanized and painted. No aluminum ones, though. They are a one time
deal. Very little chance of repairs, or sometimes, even matching profiles.

Steve

"Ignoramus6708" wrote in message
...
On 2011-06-19, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 16:59:23 -0500, Ignoramus6708
wrote:

The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

Ask the second question...aluminum...or steel

I vote for steel..but I dont live in an area with a lot of rain

Gunner


I would definitely use aluminum ,is it also available corrugated?

Yes, but you don't want it. It's too delicate for most things and it looks
like hell when it gets dented, which it will.

If you want to protect your galvanized steel, clean it good with an alkaline
cleaner, coat it with primer made for zinc ("gutter-grip" primer is the old
term for it), and paint it with a good exterior paint. Since your project is
so small, this shouldn't be a hardship.

It should last for years that way.

I'm surprised that someone didn't bring up ternplate. You don't want that,
either.

--
Ed Huntress

Ignoramus6708 wrote:

The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

Be prepared to add some mass - steel plate, stick-on lead sheet, etc. to
de-tune the structure from resonating like crazy when the generator is
running.

On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 21:36:47 -0500, Ignoramus6708
wrote:

On 2011-06-19, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 16:59:23 -0500, Ignoramus6708
wrote:

The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

Ask the second question...aluminum...or steel

I vote for steel..but I dont live in an area with a lot of rain

Gunner


I would definitely use aluminum ,is it also available corrugated?

Yes, it is, but you'll play hell trying to find some that's also
galvanized.

--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck

On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 21:36:47 -0500, Ignoramus6708
wrote:

On 2011-06-19, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 16:59:23 -0500, Ignoramus6708
wrote:

The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

Ask the second question...aluminum...or steel

I vote for steel..but I dont live in an area with a lot of rain

Gunner


I would definitely use aluminum ,is it also available corrugated?

ayup. Very much so. And other patterns which may..may break up the
outline and make it look like a simple garden shed..which is the best
camoflauge I can think of in this case.

Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 19:44:39 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote

Ask the second question...aluminum...or steel

I vote for steel..but I dont live in an area with a lot of rain

Gunner

Fergaddabout aluminum. Flimsy, and rips out easily, plus cost is higher. I
used to get aluminum manufactured home awnings complete from a manufacturer
in Las Vegas, but they had reinforcement at half or less the distance of
steel components. Rain does not bother either aluminum or properly treated
steel. I've seen carports that were 30 years old with no rust, both
galvanized and painted. No aluminum ones, though. They are a one time
deal. Very little chance of repairs, or sometimes, even matching profiles.

Steve

One idea..and Ive used this on stuff around the property..is garage
doors. 3 garage doors..removals from houses that went to rollups..would
do the job nicely. And often times they will give you those for simply
hauling them away (the installers)

Gunner


--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

"Steve B" fired this volley in
:

Does it have to be galvanized? The Mighty Rib I get from Fabral has 11
layers of coatings,

Mighty Rib IS galvanized, and aluminized, AND primed, AND painted.

The generic term is "Galvalume roofing", and it can be had in all variety
of paints, non-painted, etc.

It lasts a long time. Around here, a 3' wide sheet runs you $2.00 per
linear foot. (cut to length, delivery extra)

LLoyd

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Ask the second question...aluminum...or steel

I vote for steel..but I dont live in an area with a lot of rain


Steel, properly surface treated (*read that as "Galvalume"*) AND properly
cut lasts longer than anything else, including fiberglas shingles.

"Properly cut" means shorn, not sawn. Some manufacturers of galvalume-type
roofing will void the warrantee if you saw it.

LLoyd

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

I wonder why it matters. Sawing is so quick, it doesn't get/stay hot
for long.


I don't know that it really does, and have no way of proving it. I can
tell you what my local (Tampa) vendor _says_, though:

He says that shearing helps "wipe the coatings across the cut edges",
which he says improves the corrosion resistance of cut edges. He says
that sawing leaves only bare, unprotected metal.

Whatever... I suspect it's malarky, but he includes in his 30 year
warrantee that sawn sheets void the warrantee. So you shear, whether or
not you want to.

FWIW, power shears are just as fast (maybe faster) than sawing; but
they're damnably expensive!

LLoyd

Acid Rain and oak drips eat Al nicely.

Most anything eats steel. The trick is to use washers of plastic or
rubber to be between the nail head and the metal. Otherwise you cut
the galvanization. The next best is to get some cold galvanization
paint and over spray each nail head and scratch. Watch for tree limbs
that bend and trash the surface.

Martin

On 6/18/2011 10:53 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
lid wrote in message
...
On 2011-06-19, Gunner wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 16:59:23 -0500, Ignoramus6708
wrote:

The generator is finally connected to the home via a proper transfer
switch.

I need to build a little house for my generator. Dimensions are,
appx. 4x7 feet, 6 ft tall. I would prefer to build it from unistruts
and corrugated metal bolted to it, to make the generator easily
accessible.

My question is where can I find light gauge, galvanized currugated
metal.

i

Ask the second question...aluminum...or steel

I vote for steel..but I dont live in an area with a lot of rain

Gunner


I would definitely use aluminum ,is it also available corrugated?

Yes, but you don't want it. It's too delicate for most things and it looks
like hell when it gets dented, which it will.

If you want to protect your galvanized steel, clean it good with an alkaline
cleaner, coat it with primer made for zinc ("gutter-grip" primer is the old
term for it), and paint it with a good exterior paint. Since your project is
so small, this shouldn't be a hardship.

It should last for years that way.

I'm surprised that someone didn't bring up ternplate. You don't want that,
either.

One could just re-coat the edge with cold galvanization.
I'd think about using a metal building roof. It isn't wavy
but something like square like lines.

Martin


Martin

On 6/19/2011 10:07 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Larry fired this volley in
:

I wonder why it matters. Sawing is so quick, it doesn't get/stay hot
for long.


I don't know that it really does, and have no way of proving it. I can
tell you what my local (Tampa) vendor _says_, though:

He says that shearing helps "wipe the coatings across the cut edges",
which he says improves the corrosion resistance of cut edges. He says
that sawing leaves only bare, unprotected metal.

Whatever... I suspect it's malarky, but he includes in his 30 year
warrantee that sawn sheets void the warrantee. So you shear, whether or
not you want to.

FWIW, power shears are just as fast (maybe faster) than sawing; but
they're damnably expensive!

LLoyd

On Jun 19, 11:35*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 10:07:14 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
...
He says that shearing helps "wipe the coatings across the cut edges",
which he says improves the corrosion resistance of cut edges. *He says
that sawing leaves only bare, unprotected metal.
...

I cut it with an abrasive cut-off wheel in an angle grinder. The
diluted LPS3 I spray on it has kept the cut edges from rusting
significantly for at least 5 years, despite the acids from oak
leaves.

jsw

On Jun 20, 6:46*am, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Jun 19, 11:35*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 10:07:14 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
...
He says that shearing helps "wipe the coatings across the cut edges",
which he says improves the corrosion resistance of cut edges. *He says
that sawing leaves only bare, unprotected metal.
...

I cut it with an abrasive cut-off wheel in an angle grinder. The
diluted LPS3 I spray on it has kept the cut edges from rusting
significantly for at least 5 years, despite the acids from oak
leaves.

jsw

I went out back and examined the edges of this log shed roof, built
some time between Aug 2007 and Oct 2008:
https://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/...88504883032706
The lower edge is a mix of factory sheared and abrasive cut edges with
the burrs and slivers left on. The cut pieces were from an older, 5'
shed roof that I had rebuilt to use full 8' panels.

The slivers are still grey on both the zinc and steel sides and only a
little rust brown color shows in a few places. I probably haven't
sprayed those panels since they went up.

Somewhere I read that the zinc was observed to migrate onto the cut
steel edge. I can't tell, but the thin slivers and burrs on my roof
panels are still intact.

jsw

On Mon, 20 Jun 2011 03:46:16 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
wrote:

On Jun 19, 11:35Â*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 10:07:14 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
...
He says that shearing helps "wipe the coatings across the cut edges",
which he says improves the corrosion resistance of cut edges. Â*He says
that sawing leaves only bare, unprotected metal.
...

I cut it with an abrasive cut-off wheel in an angle grinder. The

Marked with a Sharpie?


diluted LPS3 I spray on it has kept the cut edges from rusting
significantly for at least 5 years, despite the acids from oak
leaves.

OMG! The dreaded Oak Rust rears its ugly head again...
(See silly thread on the Wreck for more info.

--
The more passions and desires one has,
the more ways one has of being happy.
-- Charlotte-Catherine

On Jun 20, 8:26*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Mon, 20 Jun 2011 03:46:16 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins

wrote:
On Jun 19, 11:35*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
...
I cut [corrugated roofing] with an abrasive cut-off wheel in an angle grinder....

Marked with a Sharpie?
...

Yep. Only the crests. I've enough chain saw log-slabbing experience to
cut a straight line by eye.

jsw

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 19:44:39 -0700, "Steve B"
? wrote:

?
?"Gunner Asch" ? wrote
?
?? Ask the second question...aluminum...or steel
??
?? I vote for steel..but I dont live in an area with a lot of rain
??
?? Gunner
?
?Fergaddabout aluminum. Flimsy, and rips out easily, plus cost is higher. I
?used to get aluminum manufactured home awnings complete from a manufacturer
?in Las Vegas, but they had reinforcement at half or less the distance of
?steel components. Rain does not bother either aluminum or properly treated
?steel. I've seen carports that were 30 years old with no rust, both
?galvanized and painted. No aluminum ones, though. They are a one time
?deal. Very little chance of repairs, or sometimes, even matching profiles.
?
?Steve
?
One idea..and Ive used this on stuff around the property..is garage
doors. 3 garage doors..removals from houses that went to rollups..would
do the job nicely. And often times they will give you those for simply
hauling them away (the installers)


I see a lot of surplus metal roofing on the local Craig's list.

--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

On Mon, 20 Jun 2011 07:15:54 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
wrote:

On Jun 20, 8:26Â*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Mon, 20 Jun 2011 03:46:16 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins

wrote:
On Jun 19, 11:35Â*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
...
I cut [corrugated roofing] with an abrasive cut-off wheel in an angle grinder....

Marked with a Sharpie?
...

Yep. Only the crests. I've enough chain saw log-slabbing experience to
cut a straight line by eye.

That's probably a very handy bit of experience, Jim.

--
Do not taunt Happy Fun Ball!

On Jun 20, 10:58*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:
...
Yep. Only the crests. I've enough chain saw log-slabbing experience to
cut a straight line by eye.

That's probably a very handy bit of experience, Jim.
...

Yeah, I've been helping a neighbor move his above-ground pool deck
back for pool replacement and painting, then into place again, so I've
done some rough free-hand carpentry on the jacking supports and
cribbing. Today's project is precision notching some pole shed posts
(=tree trunks) for the roof beams with the chainsaw and slick chisel.

jsw

On Tue, 21 Jun 2011 05:03:07 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
wrote:

On Jun 20, 10:58Â*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:
...
Yep. Only the crests. I've enough chain saw log-slabbing experience to
cut a straight line by eye.

That's probably a very handy bit of experience, Jim.
...

Yeah, I've been helping a neighbor move his above-ground pool deck
back for pool replacement and painting, then into place again, so I've
done some rough free-hand carpentry on the jacking supports and

Sounds like, erm, fun.


cribbing. Today's project is precision notching some pole shed posts
(=tree trunks) for the roof beams with the chainsaw and slick chisel.

I keep looking at (and moving) that half a leaf spring I have and
wondering why I haven't yet made a slick for myself. I traded some web
work for tools from an old shipbuilder (you old timers would remember
Dave Fleming.) I picked up a nice old Satanley #10 but he wouldn't
give up his James Swan slick, not that I blame him.

--
"Human nature itself is evermore an advocate for liberty.
There is also in human nature a resentment of injury, and
indignation against wrong. A love of truth and a veneration
of virtue. These amiable passions, are the latent spark. If
the people are capable of understanding, seeing and feeling
the differences between true and false, right and wrong,
virtue and vice, to what better principle can the friends of
mankind apply than to the sense of this difference?"
--John Adams

On Jun 21, 8:53*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jun 2011 05:03:07 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
....
cribbing. Today's project is precision notching some pole shed posts
(=tree trunks) for the roof beams with the chainsaw and slick chisel.

I keep looking at (and moving) that half a leaf spring I have and
wondering why I haven't yet made a slick for myself. I traded some web
work for tools from an old shipbuilder (you old timers would remember
Dave Fleming.) I picked up a nice old Satanley #10 but he wouldn't
give up his James Swan slick, not that I blame him.
...

When I was little we moved into a house that had lots of old tools in
the basement, including a set of socketed wood chisels. My father and
I didn't really appreciate them and pounded the handles with a hammer,
then when the wood was gone we hammered on the socket.

Some day I will follow Alexander Weygers' instructions to reforge the
sockets and fit new handles.
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Moder.../dp/0898158966

jsw

On Tue, 21 Jun 2011 06:07:20 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
wrote:

On Jun 21, 8:53Â*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jun 2011 05:03:07 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
....
cribbing. Today's project is precision notching some pole shed posts
(=tree trunks) for the roof beams with the chainsaw and slick chisel.

I keep looking at (and moving) that half a leaf spring I have and
wondering why I haven't yet made a slick for myself. I traded some web
work for tools from an old shipbuilder (you old timers would remember
Dave Fleming.) I picked up a nice old Satanley #10 but he wouldn't
give up his James Swan slick, not that I blame him.
...

When I was little we moved into a house that had lots of old tools in
the basement, including a set of socketed wood chisels. My father and
I didn't really appreciate them and pounded the handles with a hammer,
then when the wood was gone we hammered on the socket.

Some day I will follow Alexander Weygers' instructions to reforge the
sockets and fit new handles.
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Moder.../dp/0898158966

You'd da@#edwell better, dude. That's some heavy karma you have to
repay.

--
"Human nature itself is evermore an advocate for liberty.
There is also in human nature a resentment of injury, and
indignation against wrong. A love of truth and a veneration
of virtue. These amiable passions, are the latent spark. If
the people are capable of understanding, seeing and feeling
the differences between true and false, right and wrong,
virtue and vice, to what better principle can the friends of
mankind apply than to the sense of this difference?"
--John Adams

On Jun 21, 10:31*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jun 2011 06:07:20 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
...
When I was little we moved into a house that had lots of old tools in
the basement, including a set of socketed wood chisels. My father and
I didn't really appreciate them and pounded the handles with a hammer,
then when the wood was gone we hammered on the socket.

Some day I will follow Alexander Weygers' instructions to reforge the
sockets and fit new handles.
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Moder...der-Weygers/dp...

You'd da@#edwell better, dude. That's some heavy karma you have to
repay.

If only that was enough.

jsw

On Tue, 21 Jun 2011 05:03:07 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
wrote:

On Jun 20, 10:58*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:
...
Yep. Only the crests. I've enough chain saw log-slabbing experience to
cut a straight line by eye.

That's probably a very handy bit of experience, Jim.
...

Yeah, I've been helping a neighbor move his above-ground pool deck
back for pool replacement and painting, then into place again, so I've
done some rough free-hand carpentry on the jacking supports and
cribbing. Today's project is precision notching some pole shed posts
(=tree trunks) for the roof beams with the chainsaw and slick chisel.

jsw
Guy I worked for in 1954 considered himself a recreational property
developer. His inherited property consisted of about two miles of
lakeshore on which he was building cottages every fifty feet. His
construction tool kit consisted of a chain saw and an axe, he may also
have owned a claw hammer.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada