I have an old cement mixer. The shaft size that is on there for the steel
wheels is about .7000+. I have some rubber tires with tubes that have a hub
axle diameter of .625, or thereabouts. I know that all rods come in
standard fractional sizes. Is there some standard deduction when one is
calculating a shaft versus an opening size so it will just slide on, and not
be a press fit requiring hydraulics, beating with a large hammer, or
immersion in dry ice or liquid nitrogen? This is going to be max 200 rpm
for 200 yds, so it is not critical. Is there a place to buy this slightly
less than nominal diameter material in a cold rolled, so it will be a little
stiffer than the normal rod?

Thanks

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Get a free electronic book before they run out!

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 16:06:21 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have an old cement mixer. The shaft size that is on there for the steel
wheels is about .7000+. I have some rubber tires with tubes that have a hub
axle diameter of .625, or thereabouts. I know that all rods come in
standard fractional sizes. Is there some standard deduction when one is
calculating a shaft versus an opening size so it will just slide on, and not
be a press fit requiring hydraulics, beating with a large hammer, or
immersion in dry ice or liquid nitrogen? This is going to be max 200 rpm
for 200 yds, so it is not critical. Is there a place to buy this slightly
less than nominal diameter material in a cold rolled, so it will be a little
stiffer than the normal rod?

Thanks

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Get a free electronic book before they run out!

Why not take a piece of 3/4" rod, and turn the ends down to 5/8" and put
a cotter pin in each end so the wheels dont fall off? If you want to be
fancy..you can thread both ends for .625 and put a lock nut on both
ends?

Gunner


I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 16:06:21 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have an old cement mixer. The shaft size that is on there for the steel
wheels is about .7000+. I have some rubber tires with tubes that have a hub
axle diameter of .625, or thereabouts. I know that all rods come in
standard fractional sizes. Is there some standard deduction when one is
calculating a shaft versus an opening size so it will just slide on, and not
be a press fit requiring hydraulics, beating with a large hammer, or
immersion in dry ice or liquid nitrogen? This is going to be max 200 rpm
for 200 yds, so it is not critical. Is there a place to buy this slightly
less than nominal diameter material in a cold rolled, so it will be a little
stiffer than the normal rod?


Grade five or grade eight bolts should work well.

Otherwise, I bet your tires are made to take standard dimension stuff
and work. Mcmaster carr has a great selection of high quality rod.

karl

Thanks

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Get a free electronic book before they run out!

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 16:06:21 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have an old cement mixer. The shaft size that is on there for the steel
wheels is about .7000+. I have some rubber tires with tubes that have a hub
axle diameter of .625, or thereabouts. I know that all rods come in
standard fractional sizes. Is there some standard deduction when one is
calculating a shaft versus an opening size so it will just slide on, and not
be a press fit requiring hydraulics, beating with a large hammer, or
immersion in dry ice or liquid nitrogen? This is going to be max 200 rpm
for 200 yds, so it is not critical. Is there a place to buy this slightly
less than nominal diameter material in a cold rolled, so it will be a little
stiffer than the normal rod?

Thanks

Steve
Max clearance would be .001".

On Aug 22, 5:06*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I have an old cement mixer. *The shaft size that is on there for the steel
wheels is about .7000+. *I have some rubber tires with tubes that have a hub
axle diameter of .625, or thereabouts. *I know that all rods come in
standard fractional sizes. *Is there some standard deduction when one is
calculating a shaft versus an opening size so it will just slide on, and not
be a press fit requiring hydraulics, beating with a large hammer, or
immersion in dry ice or liquid nitrogen? *This is going to be max 200 rpm
for 200 yds, so it is not critical. *Is there a place to buy this slightly
less than nominal diameter material in a cold rolled, so it will be a little
stiffer than the normal rod?

Thanks

Steve

visit my blog athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Get a free electronic book before they run out!

The hardware stores around here have a selection of cold-drawn
shafting, which is what you want. Machines like crap, so the nominal
size had better be what you want. The one hardware store had it
labeled as drill rod, which it wasn't. Has a drawn finish vs. ground
for drill rod. You want a "running fit", such info is in the manuals,
see "Machinery's Handbook". IIRC, it runs around .001" per inch. If
all you're doing is trundling the thing around by hand, basically if
the wheels stay on, you're golden. Wouldn't matter if the clearance
was 20 thous.

Stan

Stan

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 16:06:21 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have an old cement mixer. The shaft size that is on there for the steel
wheels is about .7000+. I have some rubber tires with tubes that have a
hub
axle diameter of .625, or thereabouts. I know that all rods come in
standard fractional sizes. Is there some standard deduction when one is
calculating a shaft versus an opening size so it will just slide on, and
not
be a press fit requiring hydraulics, beating with a large hammer, or
immersion in dry ice or liquid nitrogen? This is going to be max 200 rpm
for 200 yds, so it is not critical. Is there a place to buy this slightly
less than nominal diameter material in a cold rolled, so it will be a
little
stiffer than the normal rod?

Thanks

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Get a free electronic book before they run out!

Why not take a piece of 3/4" rod, and turn the ends down to 5/8" and put
a cotter pin in each end so the wheels dont fall off? If you want to be
fancy..you can thread both ends for .625 and put a lock nut on both
ends?

Gunner

That would require knowledge, expertise, and a lathe, of which I have none.

Steve

On Aug 22, 11:25*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...

Why not take a piece of 3/4" rod, and turn the ends down to 5/8" and put
a cotter pin in each end so the wheels dont fall off? If you want to be
fancy..you can thread both ends for .625 and put a lock nut on both
ends?

Gunner

That would require knowledge, expertise, and a lathe, of which I have none.
Steve

And yet you complain if we employ them.

Can you drill and tap the ends for 5/8" bolts? Their shanks are
somewhat undersized.

jsw

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 21:19:35 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 16:06:21 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have an old cement mixer. The shaft size that is on there for the steel
wheels is about .7000+. I have some rubber tires with tubes that have a hub
axle diameter of .625, or thereabouts. I know that all rods come in
standard fractional sizes. Is there some standard deduction when one is
calculating a shaft versus an opening size so it will just slide on, and not
be a press fit requiring hydraulics, beating with a large hammer, or
immersion in dry ice or liquid nitrogen? This is going to be max 200 rpm
for 200 yds, so it is not critical. Is there a place to buy this slightly
less than nominal diameter material in a cold rolled, so it will be a little
stiffer than the normal rod?

Thanks

Steve
Max clearance would be .001".

Oops. Min clearance would be about .001". Max clearance would be
determined by how much wobble you could tolerate. Rule of thumb: .001
to .005 for nice-running wheels.

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 20:25:02 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 16:06:21 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have an old cement mixer. The shaft size that is on there for the steel
wheels is about .7000+. I have some rubber tires with tubes that have a
hub
axle diameter of .625, or thereabouts. I know that all rods come in
standard fractional sizes. Is there some standard deduction when one is
calculating a shaft versus an opening size so it will just slide on, and
not
be a press fit requiring hydraulics, beating with a large hammer, or
immersion in dry ice or liquid nitrogen? This is going to be max 200 rpm
for 200 yds, so it is not critical. Is there a place to buy this slightly
less than nominal diameter material in a cold rolled, so it will be a
little
stiffer than the normal rod?

Thanks

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Get a free electronic book before they run out!

Why not take a piece of 3/4" rod, and turn the ends down to 5/8" and put
a cotter pin in each end so the wheels dont fall off? If you want to be
fancy..you can thread both ends for .625 and put a lock nut on both
ends?

Gunner

That would require knowledge, expertise, and a lathe, of which I have none.

Steve

As a fellow CABG vet, I bet Gunner would turn down your shaft if you
sent it to him. I certainly would. I'd make it about .622 on each
end, you say how long, leaving enough addendum for cross holes for
cotter keys. Wouldn't take 20 minutes.

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 22:13:14 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
wrote:

On Aug 23, 12:45*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
...
That would require knowledge, expertise, and a lathe, of which I have none.
Steve

Blink blink....really????
Want a lathe? *I can find you one cheap.
Gunner

Need a mill?
http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/1908402842.html

jsw

Lathes, mills, shapers the whole works...80+ machines

http://www.auctionsinternational.com...categories=101

Buffalo New Jork School System auction


Gunner


I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)

As others have said, plain 'ole cold rolled should be fine. I've used
it to re-life wheels from lawn mowers, etc without problems.

Bob

"Jim Wilkins" wrote

And yet you complain if we employ them.


huh?

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 20:25:02 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 16:06:21 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have an old cement mixer. The shaft size that is on there for the
steel
wheels is about .7000+. I have some rubber tires with tubes that have a
hub
axle diameter of .625, or thereabouts. I know that all rods come in
standard fractional sizes. Is there some standard deduction when one is
calculating a shaft versus an opening size so it will just slide on, and
not
be a press fit requiring hydraulics, beating with a large hammer, or
immersion in dry ice or liquid nitrogen? This is going to be max 200
rpm
for 200 yds, so it is not critical. Is there a place to buy this
slightly
less than nominal diameter material in a cold rolled, so it will be a
little
stiffer than the normal rod?

Thanks

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Get a free electronic book before they run out!

Why not take a piece of 3/4" rod, and turn the ends down to 5/8" and put
a cotter pin in each end so the wheels dont fall off? If you want to be
fancy..you can thread both ends for .625 and put a lock nut on both
ends?

Gunner

That would require knowledge, expertise, and a lathe, of which I have
none.

Steve

As a fellow CABG vet, I bet Gunner would turn down your shaft if you
sent it to him. I certainly would. I'd make it about .622 on each
end, you say how long, leaving enough addendum for cross holes for
cotter keys. Wouldn't take 20 minutes.

The hubs come out of these wheel assemblies. I'm going to take one of them
to the store today, and look for some bolts that will work. I can weld on
the bolts, but I think I need to add a diagonal support cage/frame that will
run from the frame to the outside of the bolt's threads because the axle is
getting fairly wide, and with the machine and 180# of mud, it might bend.
Not the bolt, but the angle iron frame. I could make it bolt on for quick
change tire repair. Have to get a tube repair kit, too. These things are a
PITA, but it's almost done, and I'm ready to pour some footers for another
metal shade cover, and some retaining wall for walkways, plus some brick
work. This mixer looks like the perfect size, just have to get it so it
moves around good. Right now, the original steel wheels don't roll very
well in our sandy soil.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Get your free book! We only have 999 trillion left on electronic storage!

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 20:25:02 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 16:06:21 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have an old cement mixer. The shaft size that is on there for the
steel
wheels is about .7000+. I have some rubber tires with tubes that have a
hub
axle diameter of .625, or thereabouts. I know that all rods come in
standard fractional sizes. Is there some standard deduction when one is
calculating a shaft versus an opening size so it will just slide on, and
not
be a press fit requiring hydraulics, beating with a large hammer, or
immersion in dry ice or liquid nitrogen? This is going to be max 200
rpm
for 200 yds, so it is not critical. Is there a place to buy this
slightly
less than nominal diameter material in a cold rolled, so it will be a
little
stiffer than the normal rod?

Thanks

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Get a free electronic book before they run out!

Why not take a piece of 3/4" rod, and turn the ends down to 5/8" and put
a cotter pin in each end so the wheels dont fall off? If you want to be
fancy..you can thread both ends for .625 and put a lock nut on both
ends?

Gunner

That would require knowledge, expertise, and a lathe, of which I have
none.

Steve

Blink blink....really????

Want a lathe? I can find you one cheap.

Gunner

Hell, yes, I want one. Now, do I have the time to learn to use it? No.
But there rarely passes a day when I think, Man, if I only had a lathe.

I keep saying that I'm going to get the book out this week, but it actually
looks like this week may be it. It is done as far as the proofreading and
collating. Now, just to put it on the website, and promote it. I'm going
to send it to Oprah, and see if I can get on there. Limbaugh, Hannity, and
Levin, too. My SIL has been on twice, so that might help. We are talking
to St. Jude's Children's Hospital and McDonalds Ronald McDonald House, and
some other big dogs. I didn't hit the $80 million PowerBall Saturday, but I
have plenty of tickets. If I was to get a windfall, believe me, a lathe
would be one of the top ten items. Concrete floor insulated metal framing
electrified sandproof shop would be #1. In the meantime, life is good with
what I got. I got more than a lot of people in this time and age. I'm
thankful.

I went out yesterday, and in 100 degree weather, made a tongue and hitch for
the mixer, and finished off some small things. Actually felt good, even
with the temperature. Pulling together things at the containers, having
boxes and boxes of stuff to sort through, and hangers to make and stuff to
organize. It's like going shopping, you find new stuff all the time. There
are actually instances starting to happen when I need something, and I can
find it! Go figger.

My friend is bringing me six more huge parking lot lights, too. Hooboy.
Will post a pic. They are sweet weatherproof metal halide lights with
aluminum heads that are at least one cubic foot each. Transformer from 110
to 220v. The price was right, too. Free.

The wirefeed seemed to work fine, guess I had the tensioning nuts too tight.
The big wing nut on the hub seems to tighten up on its own, so will figure
out something to stop that. Maybe a double nut if I can find some thin
nuts.

Life is good.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
Get your free book. We only have 999 billion left electronically, and they
are going fast!