I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

Iggy,
This depends on the investment you want to make. If it's a quick and dirty, go to Brownells and get a small bottle of gun black.
Of course it looks like it is, a patch job. If you want to do it right, you must repolish to white metal and reblue in a salt bath
at 295 F. The blueing salt can also be purchased from Brownells. If you do not return to white metal, you will get blotching. If
you want to do the latter, read a book, it can be tricky, but not difficult. I used to do it a lot, but I no longer maintain a
salt bath. the key is clean, clean and very, very clean. Not even skin oil. So we are talking about white cotton gloves.
Steve

"Ignoramus9556" wrote in message ...
I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

On 2010-05-08, Steve Lusardi wrote:
Iggy,

This depends on the investment you want to make. If it's a quick and
dirty, go to Brownells and get a small bottle of gun black. Of
course it looks like it is, a patch job. If you want to do it right,
you must repolish to white metal and reblue in a salt bath at 295
F. The blueing salt can also be purchased from Brownells. If you do
not return to white metal, you will get blotching. If you want to do
the latter, read a book, it can be tricky, but not difficult. I used
to do it a lot, but I no longer maintain a salt bath. the key is
clean, clean and very, very clean. Not even skin oil. So we are
talking about white cotton gloves. Steve

Steve, thanks, this is a cheap little kids shotgun. Not worth the
hassle of a salt bath.

i

"Ignoramus9556" wrote in message ...
I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

"Ignoramus9556" wrote in message
...
On 2010-05-08, Steve Lusardi wrote:
Iggy,

This depends on the investment you want to make. If it's a quick and
dirty, go to Brownells and get a small bottle of gun black. Of
course it looks like it is, a patch job. If you want to do it right,
you must repolish to white metal and reblue in a salt bath at 295
F. The blueing salt can also be purchased from Brownells. If you do
not return to white metal, you will get blotching. If you want to do
the latter, read a book, it can be tricky, but not difficult. I used
to do it a lot, but I no longer maintain a salt bath. the key is
clean, clean and very, very clean. Not even skin oil. So we are
talking about white cotton gloves. Steve

Steve, thanks, this is a cheap little kids shotgun. Not worth the
hassle of a salt bath.

i

Iggy, FWIW, and to expand on what Steve says about hot-tank bluing, if
someone recommends a cold-rust blue to you, which doesn't require the tanks,
even that will be very blotchy if you don't get rid of ALL of the rust and
get back down to white metal. Cold-rust bluing (or browning or blacking --
you can get several different colors with different solutions) does not work
right where there's existing rust.

I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new barrel,
and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than
hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the quick
blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing makeup.
d8-)

--
Ed Huntress



"Ignoramus9556" wrote in message
...
I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

On Sat, 8 May 2010 13:51:57 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new barrel,
and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than
hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the quick
blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing makeup.
d8-)

Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_

--
Ned Simmons

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 May 2010 13:51:57 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new barrel,
and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than
hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the quick
blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing
makeup.
d8-)

Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_

--
Ned Simmons

It sounds good. Someone else recommended it here, years ago, but I haven't
tried it. I think Iggy is looking for black though, no?

--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 8 May 2010 14:46:36 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 8 May 2010 13:51:57 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new barrel,
and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than
hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the quick
blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing
makeup.
d8-)

Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_

--
Ned Simmons

It sounds good. Someone else recommended it here, years ago, but I haven't
tried it. I think Iggy is looking for black though, no?

Oxpho Blue is an unfortunate name. The solution is a pretty blue
color. The end result on cold rolled mild steel, which is what I've
used in on, is an opaque black.

--
Ned Simmons

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 May 2010 14:46:36 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 8 May 2010 13:51:57 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new
barrel,
and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than
hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the quick
blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing
makeup.
d8-)

Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_

--
Ned Simmons

It sounds good. Someone else recommended it here, years ago, but I haven't
tried it. I think Iggy is looking for black though, no?

Oxpho Blue is an unfortunate name. The solution is a pretty blue
color. The end result on cold rolled mild steel, which is what I've
used in on, is an opaque black.

--
Ned Simmons

Aha. That could be useful on tools. Maybe it's what Iggy needs, after all.

--
Ed Huntress

Ned Simmons wrote:

Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_


I'll second that. I used it to redo a friends beater shotgun many years ago.

Wes

On Sat, 08 May 2010 15:16:03 -0400, Wes
wrote:

Ned Simmons wrote:

Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_


I'll second that. I used it to redo a friends beater shotgun many years ago.

Wes

Brownell's offers several cold-blueing solutions. Oxpho blue is
probably the easiest to use because it is most tolerant of residual
oil and even rust.

On Sat, 08 May 2010 11:04:27 -0500, Ignoramus9556
wrote:

I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

Take a nice new brass bore brush, about 35 caliber for a rifle..and
simply brush away the rust with a bit of WD40. If you want to make it
"pretty"..get a bottle of G96 instant Blue and with a clean bore
pad..wipe it on. Follow directions of course.

Any of the Instant blues are ok..some are better than others

"VAN'S INSTANT GUN BLUE " is one of the best.

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

On 2010-05-08, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 May 2010 13:51:57 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new barrel,
and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than
hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the quick
blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing
makeup.
d8-)

Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_


It sounds good. Someone else recommended it here, years ago, but I haven't
tried it. I think Iggy is looking for black though, no?


I am definitely looking for black color.

i

On 2010-05-08, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 May 2010 14:46:36 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 May 2010 13:51:57 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new
barrel,
and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than
hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the quick
blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing
makeup.
d8-)

Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_


It sounds good. Someone else recommended it here, years ago, but I haven't
tried it. I think Iggy is looking for black though, no?

Oxpho Blue is an unfortunate name. The solution is a pretty blue
color. The end result on cold rolled mild steel, which is what I've
used in on, is an opaque black.


Aha. That could be useful on tools. Maybe it's what Iggy needs, after all.


I do not know,the web page talks about "bluing"?

i

"Ignoramus9556" wrote in message
...
On 2010-05-08, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 May 2010 14:46:36 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
m...
On Sat, 8 May 2010 13:51:57 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new
barrel,
and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than
hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the
quick
blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing
makeup.
d8-)

Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_


It sounds good. Someone else recommended it here, years ago, but I
haven't
tried it. I think Iggy is looking for black though, no?

Oxpho Blue is an unfortunate name. The solution is a pretty blue
color. The end result on cold rolled mild steel, which is what I've
used in on, is an opaque black.


Aha. That could be useful on tools. Maybe it's what Iggy needs, after
all.


I do not know,the web page talks about "bluing"?

i

I think you'd have to talk to the people who have used it. Some "blues" are
pretty weird on some alloys. Try Brownell's Plum Brown cold rust solution
some time. I've used it on tools and I've gotten all kinds of colors, from
dead-flat brown to something that's almost purple.

--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 08 May 2010 15:37:56 -0500, Ignoramus9556
wrote:



I do not know,the web page talks about "bluing"?

I can assure you the finish it puts on cold rolled 1018 is as black as
can be. How much it'll differ on other steels I can't say.

See this under Feature #6 on Brownell's page:
"...rub the bright areas briskly and they are as black as before, but
tougher."

--
Ned Simmons

On Sat, 08 May 2010 13:29:40 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 11:04:27 -0500, Ignoramus9556
wrote:

I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

Take a nice new brass bore brush, about 35 caliber for a rifle..and
simply brush away the rust with a bit of WD40. If you want to make it
"pretty"..get a bottle of G96 instant Blue and with a clean bore
pad..wipe it on. Follow directions of course.

Any of the Instant blues are ok..some are better than others

"VAN'S INSTANT GUN BLUE " is one of the best.

Gunner

Oh..if you want Black...cold black oxide is fairly cheap and works well.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

$19.95 for a 4oz gel kit.

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

On Sat, 8 May 2010 18:17:13 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Iggy,
This depends on the investment you want to make. If it's a quick and dirty, go to Brownells and get a small bottle of gun black.
Of course it looks like it is, a patch job. If you want to do it right, you must repolish to white metal and reblue in a salt bath
at 295 F. The blueing salt can also be purchased from Brownells. If you do not return to white metal, you will get blotching. If
you want to do the latter, read a book, it can be tricky, but not difficult. I used to do it a lot, but I no longer maintain a
salt bath. the key is clean, clean and very, very clean. Not even skin oil. So we are talking about white cotton gloves.
Steve

"Ignoramus9556" wrote in message ...
I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

Salt baths (sodium hydroxide, nitrite, nitrate IIRC) are also
corrosive as all hell and very nasty. I used to do this stuff, but
decided it's just too much trouble. Adding water to the salt solution
at 295 F has to be done very carefully. The temperature is maintained
by the concentration, so water must be added back as it boils out. If
you decide to do this, wear plenty of protective gear and keep your
kids well away. Brownell's has lots of info on it if you want to read
up.

Pete Keillor

"Ignoramus9556" wrote in message
...
On 2010-05-08, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 May 2010 13:51:57 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new
barrel,
and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than
hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the quick
blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing
makeup.
d8-)

Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_


It sounds good. Someone else recommended it here, years ago, but I
haven't
tried it. I think Iggy is looking for black though, no?


I am definitely looking for black color.


I use Birchwood-Casey:

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/...yID=1&subcat=5

I like the paste for large surfaces as it is less blotchy.
It is definitely more black than blue. Something like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7605638700703/

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On Sat, 08 May 2010 15:36:30 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 13:29:40 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 11:04:27 -0500, Ignoramus9556
wrote:

I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

Take a nice new brass bore brush, about 35 caliber for a rifle..and
simply brush away the rust with a bit of WD40. If you want to make it
"pretty"..get a bottle of G96 instant Blue and with a clean bore
pad..wipe it on. Follow directions of course.

Any of the Instant blues are ok..some are better than others

"VAN'S INSTANT GUN BLUE " is one of the best.

Gunner

Oh..if you want Black...cold black oxide is fairly cheap and works well.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

$19.95 for a 4oz gel kit.

Gunner

I didn't know Caswell had come out with that 4 oz gel. I've used their
cold black oxide on a number of projects and have always been pleased
with the results. I've had more consistent results with that than
with any of the Birchwood-Casey or Brownell's products. Photo of one
example at
http://members.goldengate.net/dforeman/rifle_bolt/

On May 8, 10:04*am, Ignoramus9556
wrote:
I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

Use ultra-fine steel wool and light oil to remove the rust(WD40 works)
and will not remove the remaining blue. DON'T SAND. Degrease
thoroughly, chlorinated brake cleaner on a clean rag works.
Brownell's Oxpho Blue can be used on a strip of rag and shoeshined on
the area. Repeated applications will deepen the color. You get a
blue-black color when done. Pour out what you think you'll need out
of the bottle into a separate container, returning used swabs,
solution or rags to the bottle will contaminate it. Degreased untra-
fine steel wool or bronze wool(better) can be used to improve the
appearance.

I have also used the .44/40 blue, it's a fast way to get a black, but
not as durable. Dicropan T-4 gives about the same finish as the Oxpho
Blue but is a little more finicky to get larger areas to blend.

Any of this stuff needs a Hazmat charge to order, haunt the local gun
shops to see what you can turn up. Some Wal-Marts have the Birchwood
Casey line, if it's what you can get, apply it as above. Just may not
wear as long. Most of the cold blues rely on chemically depositing a
layer of copper on the cleaned steel, then blackening that. Has
selenium in it, don't lick your fingers after!

Stan

On Sat, 8 May 2010 21:26:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On May 8, 10:04*am, Ignoramus9556
wrote:
I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

Use ultra-fine steel wool and light oil to remove the rust(WD40 works)
and will not remove the remaining blue. DON'T SAND. Degrease
thoroughly, chlorinated brake cleaner on a clean rag works.
Brownell's Oxpho Blue can be used on a strip of rag and shoeshined on
the area. Repeated applications will deepen the color. You get a
blue-black color when done. Pour out what you think you'll need out
of the bottle into a separate container, returning used swabs,
solution or rags to the bottle will contaminate it. Degreased untra-
fine steel wool or bronze wool(better) can be used to improve the
appearance.

I have also used the .44/40 blue, it's a fast way to get a black, but
not as durable. Dicropan T-4 gives about the same finish as the Oxpho
Blue but is a little more finicky to get larger areas to blend.

Any of this stuff needs a Hazmat charge to order, haunt the local gun
shops to see what you can turn up. Some Wal-Marts have the Birchwood
Casey line, if it's what you can get, apply it as above. Just may not
wear as long. Most of the cold blues rely on chemically depositing a
layer of copper on the cleaned steel, then blackening that. Has
selenium in it, don't lick your fingers after!

Stan

The stuff from Caswell does not incur a hazmat surcharge. Small
quantities from Brownell's don't either; it's just ORM-D which must go
ground rather than air.

Don Foreman wrote:

The stuff from Caswell does not incur a hazmat surcharge. Small
quantities from Brownell's don't either; it's just ORM-D which must go
ground rather than air.


I just ordered 16 oz of Oxpho after reading no hazmat charge. Years back, I remember
buying some and getting slammed with a hazmat charge which made my eyes water.

Every RGG gatling gun I've seen has been in the white. Not mine


Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Ed Huntress wrote:
"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 May 2010 13:51:57 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:

I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new barrel,
and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than
hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the quick
blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing
makeup.
d8-)
Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_

--
Ned Simmons

It sounds good. Someone else recommended it here, years ago, but I haven't
tried it. I think Iggy is looking for black though, no?

I've used Oxpho Blue for touch ups and to do whole guns. You get
deeper color with repeated applications, starting with a light blue
and you can get to real black. Best to get down to bare metal first,
but it claims it will also penetrate and remove light rust. OK for a
fairly durable finish and good appearance, but not like a professional
reblue.

Not OK for anything with collector value.

David

Ignoramus9556 wrote:
On 2010-05-08, Ed Huntress wrote:
"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 May 2010 13:51:57 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:

I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new barrel,
and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than
hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the quick
blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing
makeup.
d8-)
Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_

It sounds good. Someone else recommended it here, years ago, but I haven't
tried it. I think Iggy is looking for black though, no?


I am definitely looking for black color.

i

Oxpho blue can do that with repeated applications.

"Bluing" is the name of a process, not the result of that process.

David

On Sat, 08 May 2010 22:52:42 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote the following:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 15:36:30 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 13:29:40 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 11:04:27 -0500, Ignoramus9556
wrote:

I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

Take a nice new brass bore brush, about 35 caliber for a rifle..and
simply brush away the rust with a bit of WD40. If you want to make it
"pretty"..get a bottle of G96 instant Blue and with a clean bore
pad..wipe it on. Follow directions of course.

Any of the Instant blues are ok..some are better than others

"VAN'S INSTANT GUN BLUE " is one of the best.

Gunner

Oh..if you want Black...cold black oxide is fairly cheap and works well.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

$19.95 for a 4oz gel kit.

Gunner

I didn't know Caswell had come out with that 4 oz gel. I've used their
cold black oxide on a number of projects and have always been pleased
with the results. I've had more consistent results with that than
with any of the Birchwood-Casey or Brownell's products. Photo of one
example at
http://members.goldengate.net/dforeman/rifle_bolt/

That's "black", Don?!? Also, most commercial black oxide I've seen
(on screws and bolts) is matte, often with oil added.

I used Birchwood-Casey's Perma Blue on my ancient Winchester .22, but
it seemed to almost wipe right off. It didn't last on the sear but a
minute. The Winchester is "browned", my favorite shade of gunmetal.

Later I ordered some Manganese Phosphate Parkerizing Solution from
Midway, but I haven't gotten around to trying it yet.

--
The doctor of the future will give no medicine, but will interest her
or his patients in the care of the human frame, in a proper diet, and
in the cause and prevention of disease.
-- Thomas A. Edison

On Sat, 08 May 2010 22:52:42 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 15:36:30 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 13:29:40 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 11:04:27 -0500, Ignoramus9556
wrote:

I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

Take a nice new brass bore brush, about 35 caliber for a rifle..and
simply brush away the rust with a bit of WD40. If you want to make it
"pretty"..get a bottle of G96 instant Blue and with a clean bore
pad..wipe it on. Follow directions of course.

Any of the Instant blues are ok..some are better than others

"VAN'S INSTANT GUN BLUE " is one of the best.

Gunner

Oh..if you want Black...cold black oxide is fairly cheap and works well.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

$19.95 for a 4oz gel kit.

Gunner

I didn't know Caswell had come out with that 4 oz gel. I've used their
cold black oxide on a number of projects and have always been pleased
with the results. I've had more consistent results with that than
with any of the Birchwood-Casey or Brownell's products. Photo of one
example at
http://members.goldengate.net/dforeman/rifle_bolt/

Ayup. They have had em for a few years.

Ive got hummm...about a gallon or two of black oxide liquid that came
out of a shop I shut down a year or so ago, so Ive not done much
"bluing" lately...G

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

On Sun, 09 May 2010 06:42:33 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 22:52:42 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote the following:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 15:36:30 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 13:29:40 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 08 May 2010 11:04:27 -0500, Ignoramus9556
wrote:

I have a little 20 gauge shotgun that has some rust on the barrel. It
is functional despite that, but I would like to clean it up a bit. I
would like to know what is the proper procedure. I guess I can remove
rust and even polish it a bit, but then I would somehow blacken the
barrel again. Is there anything that you would recommend for this sort
of thing. Thanks

i

Take a nice new brass bore brush, about 35 caliber for a rifle..and
simply brush away the rust with a bit of WD40. If you want to make it
"pretty"..get a bottle of G96 instant Blue and with a clean bore
pad..wipe it on. Follow directions of course.

Any of the Instant blues are ok..some are better than others

"VAN'S INSTANT GUN BLUE " is one of the best.

Gunner

Oh..if you want Black...cold black oxide is fairly cheap and works well.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

$19.95 for a 4oz gel kit.

Gunner

I didn't know Caswell had come out with that 4 oz gel. I've used their
cold black oxide on a number of projects and have always been pleased
with the results. I've had more consistent results with that than
with any of the Birchwood-Casey or Brownell's products. Photo of one
example at
http://members.goldengate.net/dforeman/rifle_bolt/

That's "black", Don?!? Also, most commercial black oxide I've seen
(on screws and bolts) is matte, often with oil added.

I used Birchwood-Casey's Perma Blue on my ancient Winchester .22, but
it seemed to almost wipe right off. It didn't last on the sear but a
minute. The Winchester is "browned", my favorite shade of gunmetal.

Later I ordered some Manganese Phosphate Parkerizing Solution from
Midway, but I haven't gotten around to trying it yet.


The sear is case hardened. Its not surprising it didnt take bluing.

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Don Foreman wrote:

Oh..if you want Black...cold black oxide is fairly cheap and works well.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

$19.95 for a 4oz gel kit.

Gunner

I didn't know Caswell had come out with that 4 oz gel. I've used their
cold black oxide on a number of projects and have always been pleased
with the results. I've had more consistent results with that than
with any of the Birchwood-Casey or Brownell's products. Photo of one
example at
http://members.goldengate.net/dforeman/rifle_bolt/

The black oxide I see on many machine details is very black.

Iggy used blackening in his subject line but most of us think of firearms and bluing. Why
we call it bluing if it tends to be black escapes me.

Most firearms I've seen tend to be mostly black but some have had hints of blue.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...olt-python.jpg

There is an example of a Colt Python that often has positive comments on its finish as it
tends to have a strong blue cast.

I know that nickel steel receivers on 1894 Winchesters tend to come out purple.

Is the color a function of the steel alloy?

Wes






--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

"Ignoramus9556" wrote in message
...
On 2010-05-08, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 May 2010 13:51:57 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new
barrel,
and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than
hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the quick
blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing
makeup.
d8-)

Oxpho blue works well.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...XPHO_BLUE_reg_


It sounds good. Someone else recommended it here, years ago, but I
haven't
tried it. I think Iggy is looking for black though, no?


I am definitely looking for black color.


I have already responded but do not see my post. Here is a copy:


I use Birchwood-Casey:

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/...yID=1&subcat=5

I like the paste for large surfaces as it is less blotchy.
It is definitely more black than blue. Something like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7605638700703/

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On Sun, 09 May 2010 18:36:32 -0400, Wes
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:

Oh..if you want Black...cold black oxide is fairly cheap and works well.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

$19.95 for a 4oz gel kit.

Gunner

I didn't know Caswell had come out with that 4 oz gel. I've used their
cold black oxide on a number of projects and have always been pleased
with the results. I've had more consistent results with that than
with any of the Birchwood-Casey or Brownell's products. Photo of one
example at
http://members.goldengate.net/dforeman/rifle_bolt/

The black oxide I see on many machine details is very black.

Iggy used blackening in his subject line but most of us think of firearms and bluing. Why
we call it bluing if it tends to be black escapes me.

Most firearms I've seen tend to be mostly black but some have had hints of blue.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...olt-python.jpg

There is an example of a Colt Python that often has positive comments on its finish as it
tends to have a strong blue cast.

I know that nickel steel receivers on 1894 Winchesters tend to come out purple.

Is the color a function of the steel alloy?

Wes

An old form of blueing predating salt baths (rust blueing) supposedly
gave a blue tint. Salt blueing yields black. Unless you let the temp
get 5-10 deg above 295 F, then you get a purple cast.

Pete Keillor