I have a mini-lathe, but even for those with the larger machines I was
looking for opinions on whether or not the "Adjust Tru" feature on
something like the Bison is really worth the money.

Is any gain is speed or possible accuracy really worth the cost that
these go for?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 20:33:12 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7
wrote:

I have a mini-lathe, but even for those with the larger machines I was
looking for opinions on whether or not the "Adjust Tru" feature on
something like the Bison is really worth the money.

Is any gain is speed or possible accuracy really worth the cost that
these go for?

That's up to each to decide for himself.

I have a Buck Adjust-Tru that I got used 20 years ago. The D1-4
backplate I had to buy cost more than the chuck. That investment has
definitely been a good one for me since that chuck is what's on my
lathe 95% of the time. I'm a hobby machinist, production is not an
issue but convenience is at times.

Work can be centered accurately in a 4-jaw but it takes a couple of
minutes of screwing around.

The adjust-tru isn't accurate for all diameters unless adjusted, but
it's more accurate than my other 3-jaws and it's well under a thou for
1" dia stock -- or such other dia as I may find it worth the bother to
tweak. That's close enough for my needs most days. For closer, 4-jaw
is actually more convenient.

Searcher7 writes:

Is any gain is speed or possible accuracy really worth the cost that
these go for?

One problem is that they are longer and thus further out from the
headstock. Thus there is a progressive loss of precision and rigidity
which trades off against the added precision of centering. The smaller the
lathe the worse this trade-off becomes.

On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 20:33:12 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7
wrote:

I have a mini-lathe, but even for those with the larger machines I was
looking for opinions on whether or not the "Adjust Tru" feature on
something like the Bison is really worth the money.

Is any gain is speed or possible accuracy really worth the cost that
these go for?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.


If your lathe is big enough for even a small Adjust Tru...and you need a
3 or 6 jaw chuck that is dead nuts..yes..they are indeed very handy to
have. Ive got {2} 6" ones and a couple 8" ones...and one 10" one..and
they have saved my bacon on more than one occasion .

But most people, for rough turning, really dont need one. They are very
handy for returning Stuff that has been turned before.

Gunner


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

....
If your lathe is big enough for even a small Adjust Tru...and you need a
3 or 6 jaw chuck that is dead nuts..yes..they are indeed very handy to
have. Ive got {2} 6" ones and a couple 8" ones...and one 10" one..and
they have saved my bacon on more than one occasion .

But most people, for rough turning, really dont need one. They are very
handy for returning Stuff that has been turned before.

Gunner

Like Don and Gunner, I too have an adjust true three jaw. I set mine up once
years ago and don't touch it. Really close for most work. It should be
noted, I could have done nearly as well by boring my hard jaws. Scott Logan
of Logan lathes has a great write up on his web site for this task.

But, when I need dead nuts...

Soft jaws are the way to go.

Soft jaw in a lathe is something you have to do a few times. Once you're
past the learning curve, you can quickly bore a shave off your softjaw and
then insert your work and its absolutely dead nuts on. When you need to turn
a part from both ends and have the same diameter meet in the middle, this is
the best way to go.

Karl

On Apr 24, 11:33*pm, Searcher7 wrote:
I have a mini-lathe, but even for those with the larger machines I was
looking for opinions on whether or not the "Adjust Tru" feature on
something like the Bison is really worth the money.

Is any gain is speed or possible accuracy really worth the cost that
these go for?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Depends on what you need, they aren't really essential. I didn't have
a three-jaw so the extra cost wasn't so bad. In practice the more
accurate centering has only been useful for parts that don't fit 5C
collets and need to be removed to test a fit, then replaced and
trimmed slightly. Most of the time a small light-weight chuck on a 5C
mount (i.e. easily removed and replaced) would work as well for that.
The Sherlines are nice, for me the stronger 3" Enco is about the
weight limit for checking the feel of a light press fit.

Of course if I need to test the fit with a hammer I have to remove the
part from the chuck. In that case the Set-Tru is less trouble to
recenter than a 4-jaw, the machined surface may be difficult to
indicate if it's scuffed or threaded.

jsw

On 4/25/2010 00:30, Richard J Kinch wrote:
Searcher7 writes:

Is any gain is speed or possible accuracy really worth the cost that
these go for?

One problem is that they are longer and thus further out from the
headstock.

That is not universally true. My Kalamazoo Chuck's Zero-Set mounting
adapter threads right up to the boss on the spindle. Once the proper
thread form was achieved, it spun on like a bank vault closing.

On Apr 24, 9:33*pm, Searcher7 wrote:
I have a mini-lathe, but even for those with the larger machines I was
looking for opinions on whether or not the "Adjust Tru" feature on
something like the Bison is really worth the money.

Is any gain is speed or possible accuracy really worth the cost that
these go for?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I've really not felt the need. I don't do long production runs of the
same stuff, after a bit of practice, centering up in a 4-jaw doesn't
take that much time and you'd have to go through the same gyrations to
set the adjustments on the fancy 3-jaw, since they aren't going to be
the same for every spot on the jaws' scroll. You've still got to check
run-out with an indicator. I've got a 3-jaw, but it's seldom on the
lathe. I find a 6-jaw to be more useful.

Stan

On Sun, 25 Apr 2010 00:30:20 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Searcher7 writes:

Is any gain is speed or possible accuracy really worth the cost that
these go for?

One problem is that they are longer and thus further out from the
headstock. Thus there is a progressive loss of precision and rigidity
which trades off against the added precision of centering. The smaller the
lathe the worse this trade-off becomes.

My Buck Adjust-tru chuck is no longer than a similar-size Rohm. If
anything it's a bit thinner.

On 2010-04-25, Searcher7 wrote:
I have a mini-lathe, but even for those with the larger machines I was
looking for opinions on whether or not the "Adjust Tru" feature on
something like the Bison is really worth the money.

Is any gain is speed or possible accuracy really worth the cost that
these go for?

Which chuck -- a standard 3-jaw chuck, or a collet chuck?

For the former -- it will only be true at the one size which you
adjusted it for -- and only as long as you use the same key hole
(ideally the one marked '0' or something similar) for tightening it.

The adjust-tru can tune out errors in the chuck, but the scroll
plate can have a sensitivity to where it is in its cycle. So tune it
for true in one position, and it will be fine there, but have varying
degrees of error at other workpiece diameters. (It will be right on for
sizes larger and smaller than where you tuned it which are precisely an
integer number of jaw teeth larger or smaller -- because the scroll
plate will have turned precisely an integer number of turns and it will
be back where it was.

With a good *new* chuck, there should be little error. If it is
used, the scroll plate will have varying amounts of wear in different
rotational positions.

If you are doing a lot of work with the same size stock, and if
your finish diameter is barely smaller than the raw stock, then this
could save you time.

But -- you could also get the chuck with two-piece jaws, and get
some soft jaws which you can bore to a precise fit for that stock
diameter. That will probably cost you less than the adjust-tru feature.

And if you will always be making parts from stock with is not
just barely larger than the desired finish diameter (of the largest
part), you can just chuck up the stock, turn to the desired diameter,
and finish all the other work before you release it from the chuck.
Don't expect to turn the workpiece around in the chuck and finish the
other end to precisely the same surface unless you take the time to use
the adjust-tru to truly center the workpiece on an exposed area which
has already been turned. It is easier to turn workpieces around if you
are turning between centers instead of held in a chuck.

If, instead, you have a collet chuck (which Bison also makes) you
can use the adjust-tru to get the collet running truly on center and
will be able to exchange collets with very little error -- given good
collets.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

--I've got a 5" Buck 6-jaw on my Myford Super 7. Had to make a
backplate as none were available but worth every bit of heartache to get it
done. If Buck makes a chuck small enough to fit your lathe go for it. Nice
thing about the 6-jaw: you can leave one jaw out, if necessary, to
accomodate lumpy castings, etc but the full 6 gives you the ability to grip
relatively small stuff: 3-jaw chucks tend to have fairly blunt gripping ends
but the 6-jaw variety are much pointier, so to speak.

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Come see my stuff
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : at Maker Faire!!
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

On 2010-04-27, steamer wrote:
--I've got a 5" Buck 6-jaw on my Myford Super 7. Had to make a
backplate as none were available but worth every bit of heartache to get it
done. If Buck makes a chuck small enough to fit your lathe go for it. Nice
thing about the 6-jaw: you can leave one jaw out, if necessary, to
accomodate lumpy castings, etc but the full 6 gives you the ability to grip
relatively small stuff: 3-jaw chucks tend to have fairly blunt gripping ends
but the 6-jaw variety are much pointier, so to speak.

Also -- another significant advantage to a 6-jaw is that when
clamping thin-walled tubing the 6-jaw introduces less deflection than
the 3-jaw does.

However -- a benefit for the 3-jaw. With an irregular surface
on the workpiece, a 3-jaw *always* gets full contact with each jaw.
(3-points are self centering). With 6-jaw, it is likely that one or
more of the jaws will not be making proper contact, reducing it in
effect to a 3-jaw with skinnier points.

And for either 3 or 6 jaw -- if the chuck has a separate
backplate, it is possible to make a spacer with some other features to
turn it into an Adjust-Tru (or any of a number of other trademarked
names, depending on the maker of the chuck. :-)

First -- you turn a recess in the center of the mounting plate,
and mount a round piece of steel in that, with several countersunk
bolts. Best if it is a good tight fit in the recess so it can't shift
in there.

Then -- turn up a spacer ring to go between the chuck body and
the backplate. Drill and countersink it for bolts to attach it to the
chuck body which go into the threaded holes which the backplate normally
bolts to.

Drill and tap four radial holes at 90 degree intervals around
the ring for setscrews to press on the original round piece of steel.

Then drill and tap holes in the ring to match the holes in the
backplate, enlarge the backplate holes (and countersinks if present) a
bit to allow motion, and attach the ring to the backplate with these.

In use -- loosen the backplate bolts to finger tight, and use
the radial setscrews to shift the chuck to true (relative to the
backplate) for the workpiece size in use at the moment, and snug the
backplate bolts and re-check the centering. If it is still on center,
snug them down firmly and triple check the centering. You are now ready
to turn.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Apr 26, 11:39*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-04-25, Searcher7 wrote:

I have a mini-lathe, but even for those with the larger machines I was
looking for opinions on whether or not the "Adjust Tru" feature on
something like the Bison is really worth the money.

Is any gain is speed or possible accuracy really worth the cost that
these go for?

* * * * Which chuck -- a standard 3-jaw chuck, or a collet chuck?

I guess both. But I don't know if either is even worth it for a mini
lathe projects, unless I'm doing production stuff.

* * * * For the former -- it will only be true at the one size which you
adjusted it for -- and only as long as you use the same key hole
(ideally the one marked '0' or something similar) for tightening it.

* * * * The adjust-tru can tune out errors in the chuck, but the scroll
plate can have a sensitivity to where it is in its cycle. *So tune it
for true in one position, and it will be fine there, but have varying
degrees of error at other workpiece diameters. *(It will be right on for
sizes larger and smaller than where you tuned it which are precisely an
integer number of jaw teeth larger or smaller -- because the scroll
plate will have turned precisely an integer number of turns and it will
be back where it was.

* * * * With a good *new* chuck, there should be little error. *If it is
used, the scroll plate will have varying amounts of wear in different
rotational positions.

* * * * If you are doing a lot of work with the same size stock, and if
your finish diameter is barely smaller than the raw stock, then this
could save you time.

* * * * But -- you could also get the chuck with two-piece jaws, and get
some soft jaws which you can bore to a precise fit for that stock
diameter. *That will probably cost you less than the adjust-tru feature..

* * * * And if you will always be making parts from stock with is not
just barely larger than the desired finish diameter (of the largest
part), you can just chuck up the stock, turn to the desired diameter,
and finish all the other work before you release it from the chuck.
Don't expect to turn the workpiece around in the chuck and finish the
other end to precisely the same surface unless you take the time to use
the adjust-tru to truly center the workpiece on an exposed area which
has already been turned. *It is easier to turn workpieces around if you
are turning between centers instead of held in a chuck.

I need to turn a variety diameters. But may also be getting into a
project involving "piston and bore" accuracy.

BTW. I wondering if one of these eBay chucks can be adapted to my
lathe: A) 320527041801 B) 350349970482

* * * * If, instead, you have a collet chuck (which Bison also makes) you
can use the adjust-tru to get the collet running truly on center and
will be able to exchange collets with very little error -- given good
collets.

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Speaking of collet chucks. I can't seem to find much info on the one I
have shown at the top of this page: http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I have to figure out how to use it and if I'm missing any parts.(It
came in the same box which was supposed to contain the 5C collect
chuck).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On 2010-05-07, Searcher7 wrote:
On Apr 26, 11:39*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-04-25, Searcher7 wrote:

I have a mini-lathe, but even for those with the larger machines I was
looking for opinions on whether or not the "Adjust Tru" feature on
something like the Bison is really worth the money.

[ ... ]

I need to turn a variety diameters. But may also be getting into a
project involving "piston and bore" accuracy.

BTW. I wondering if one of these eBay chucks can be adapted to my
lathe: A) 320527041801 B) 350349970482

Could you bother saying what the size of the lathe is?
"Mini-Lathe" does not devine it for me.

Anyway -- the first one is 4" diameter, and a 3-jaw chuck
normally should not be much larger than 1/2 the swing of the lathe. At
a guess, your "mini-lathe" could be one of the 7x10" lathes, which would
put a maximum 3-jaw chuck size of 3-1/2". (4-jaw chucks can be, and
often are, larger.) This chuck is for at least an 8" swing lathe.

Anyway -- as supplied, with a #10 B&S taper, it is not likely to
fit anything which qualifies as a "mini" lathe, though replacing the
taper with a different chuck backplate could cure this.

Both auctions are closed, so it does not matter anyway.

Speaking of collet chucks. I can't seem to find much info on the one I
have shown at the top of this page:

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I have to figure out how to use it and if I'm missing any parts.(It
came in the same box which was supposed to contain the 5C collect
chuck).

I think that this is intended to be held in a larger chuck (or a
in a *very* large collet) to do a makeshift adaptation to 5C collets. I
can't see clearly whether the black end has a proper taper for closing a
5C collet or not. The other end certainly does not.

If the black end has the taper for a 5C collet, you thread the
collet into the separate ring (which I presume has threads on the ID to
match a 5C collet) chuck the silver part in the chuck or very large
collet, and use the tommy bar to rotate the black part to close the
collet.

It is sort of like the square and hex collet blocks for use
with a milling machine. To see examples of these, see eBay auction:

400116973584

Anyway -- I don't see what you have illustrated as being any use in a
lathe which qualifies as "mini". :-)

Good luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On May 7, 9:27*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-07, Searcher7 wrote:

On Apr 26, 11:39*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-04-25, Searcher7 wrote:

I have a mini-lathe, but even for those with the larger machines I was
looking for opinions on whether or not the "Adjust Tru" feature on
something like the Bison is really worth the money.

* * * * [ ... ]

I need to turn a variety diameters. But may also be getting into a
project involving "piston and bore" accuracy.

BTW. I wondering if one of these eBay chucks can be adapted to my
lathe: A) 320527041801 B) 350349970482

* * * * Could you bother saying what the size of the lathe is?
"Mini-Lathe" does not devine it for me.

Sorry. I have a red 7" x 14" Microlux. The newer one is exactly the
same, but gray. (That's "grey" in the U.K.). :-)
http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-7X...ATHE,8176.html

* * * * Anyway -- the first one is 4" diameter, and a 3-jaw chuck
normally should not be much larger than 1/2 the swing of the lathe. *At
a guess, your "mini-lathe" could be one of the 7x10" lathes, which would
put a maximum 3-jaw chuck size of 3-1/2". *(4-jaw chucks can be, and
often are, larger.) *This chuck is for at least an 8" swing lathe.

* * * * Anyway -- as supplied, with a #10 B&S taper, it is not likely to
fit anything which qualifies as a "mini" lathe, though replacing the
taper with a different chuck backplate could cure this.

* * * * Both auctions are closed, so it does not matter anyway.

The seller may put them back up, but obviously money is better spent
on something more useful for my machine. Thanks.

Speaking of collet chucks. I can't seem to find much info on the one I
have shown at the top of this page:

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/



I have to figure out how to use it and if I'm missing any parts.(It
came in the same box which was supposed to contain the 5C collect
chuck).

* * * * I think that this is intended to be held in a larger chuck (or a
in a *very* large collet) to do a makeshift adaptation to 5C collets. *I
can't see clearly whether the black end has a proper taper for closing a
5C collet or not. *The other end certainly does not.

* * * * If the black end has the taper for a 5C collet, you thread the
collet into the separate ring (which I presume has threads on the ID to
match a 5C collet) chuck the silver part in the chuck or very large
collet, and use the tommy bar to rotate the black part to close the
collet.

I added three clearer pics of it taken apart:
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I can see some sort of taper inside the opening at the non-threaded
end of the black part that starts at about 1-7/16" in diameter. It
tapers down for about a 1/2" before the I.D. straightens out the rest
of the way at about 1-1/4" diameter).

Also,a s you can see there are eight threaded holes that are about
7/16" deep, on the outside circumference of the black part.

The I.D. of the small ring is threaded. (The two bars don't seem to
serve a purpose).

* * * * It is sort of like the square and hex collet blocks for use
with a milling machine. *To see examples of these, see eBay auction:

* * * * 400116973584

Yes, I have both. The square and hex.

Anyway -- I don't see what you have illustrated as being any use in a
lathe which qualifies as "mini". :-)

I also have a full set of 5C collets at every 1/32nd for when I was
thinking of milling larger diameter stock than 3C would allow. But
since I now have a mini mill/drill project that I plan to fix I
probably won't need all the MT3 stuff. (Like the endmill holders). Now
I'll need R8 tooling.

http://www.harborfreight.com/two-spe...ine-44991.html

* * * * Good luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On May 7, 9:27 pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-07, Searcher7 wrote:

On Apr 26, 11:39 pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-04-25, Searcher7 wrote:

I have a mini-lathe, but even for those with the larger machines I was
looking for opinions on whether or not the "Adjust Tru" feature on
something like the Bison is really worth the money.

[ ... ]

I need to turn a variety diameters. But may also be getting into a
project involving "piston and bore" accuracy.

BTW. I wondering if one of these eBay chucks can be adapted to my
lathe: A) 320527041801 B) 350349970482

Could you bother saying what the size of the lathe is?
"Mini-Lathe" does not devine it for me.

Sorry. I have a red 7" x 14" Microlux. The newer one is exactly the
same, but gray. (That's "grey" in the U.K.). :-)
http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-7X...ATHE,8176.html

Anyway -- the first one is 4" diameter, and a 3-jaw chuck
normally should not be much larger than 1/2 the swing of the lathe. At
a guess, your "mini-lathe" could be one of the 7x10" lathes, which would
put a maximum 3-jaw chuck size of 3-1/2". (4-jaw chucks can be, and
often are, larger.) This chuck is for at least an 8" swing lathe.

Anyway -- as supplied, with a #10 B&S taper, it is not likely to
fit anything which qualifies as a "mini" lathe, though replacing the
taper with a different chuck backplate could cure this.

Both auctions are closed, so it does not matter anyway.

The seller may put them back up, but obviously money is better spent
on something more useful for my machine. Thanks.

Speaking of collet chucks. I can't seem to find much info on the one I
have shown at the top of this page:

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/



I have to figure out how to use it and if I'm missing any parts.(It
came in the same box which was supposed to contain the 5C collect
chuck).

I think that this is intended to be held in a larger chuck (or a
in a *very* large collet) to do a makeshift adaptation to 5C collets. I
can't see clearly whether the black end has a proper taper for closing a
5C collet or not. The other end certainly does not.

If the black end has the taper for a 5C collet, you thread the
collet into the separate ring (which I presume has threads on the ID to
match a 5C collet) chuck the silver part in the chuck or very large
collet, and use the tommy bar to rotate the black part to close the
collet.

I added three clearer pics of it taken apart:
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I can see some sort of taper inside the opening at the non-threaded
end of the black part that starts at about 1-7/16" in diameter. It
tapers down for about a 1/2" before the I.D. straightens out the rest
of the way at about 1-1/4" diameter).

Also,a s you can see there are eight threaded holes that are about
7/16" deep, on the outside circumference of the black part.

The I.D. of the small ring is threaded. (The two bars don't seem to
serve a purpose).

It is sort of like the square and hex collet blocks for use
with a milling machine. To see examples of these, see eBay auction:

400116973584

Yes, I have both. The square and hex.

Anyway -- I don't see what you have illustrated as being any use in a
lathe which qualifies as "mini". :-)

I also have a full set of 5C collets at every 1/32nd for when I was
thinking of milling larger diameter stock than 3C would allow. But
since I now have a mini mill/drill project that I plan to fix I
probably won't need all the MT3 stuff. (Like the endmill holders). Now
I'll need R8 tooling.

http://www.harborfreight.com/two-spe...ine-44991.html

Good luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Thanks again.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On 2010-05-08, Searcher7 wrote:
On May 7, 9:27*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-07, Searcher7 wrote:

[ ... ]

* * * * Could you bother saying what the size of the lathe is?
"Mini-Lathe" does not devine it for me.

Sorry. I have a red 7" x 14" Microlux. The newer one is exactly the
same, but gray. (That's "grey" in the U.K.). :-)
http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-7X...ATHE,8176.html

* * * * Anyway -- the first one is 4" diameter, and a 3-jaw chuck
normally should not be much larger than 1/2 the swing of the lathe. *At
a guess, your "mini-lathe" could be one of the 7x10" lathes, which would
put a maximum 3-jaw chuck size of 3-1/2". *(4-jaw chucks can be, and
often are, larger.) *This chuck is for at least an 8" swing lathe.

[ ... ]

The seller may put them back up, but obviously money is better spent
on something more useful for my machine. Thanks.

Better. You probably *could* make alternate backplates for
those chucks, but you would have to be *very* careful never to back the
jaws out enough so they could hit the bed under power. Better to have
the 3-1/2" chucks and be *sure* that they will be clear.

Speaking of collet chucks. I can't seem to find much info on the one I
have shown at the top of this page:

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/



I have to figure out how to use it and if I'm missing any parts.(It
came in the same box which was supposed to contain the 5C collect
chuck).

* * * * I think that this is intended to be held in a larger chuck (or a
in a *very* large collet) to do a makeshift adaptation to 5C collets. *I
can't see clearly whether the black end has a proper taper for closing a
5C collet or not. *The other end certainly does not.

* * * * If the black end has the taper for a 5C collet, you thread the
collet into the separate ring (which I presume has threads on the ID to
match a 5C collet) chuck the silver part in the chuck or very large
collet, and use the tommy bar to rotate the black part to close the
collet.

I added three clearer pics of it taken apart:
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I can see some sort of taper inside the opening at the non-threaded
end of the black part that starts at about 1-7/16" in diameter. It
tapers down for about a 1/2" before the I.D. straightens out the rest
of the way at about 1-1/4" diameter).

O.K. So it works the way I expected.

Also,a s you can see there are eight threaded holes that are about
7/16" deep, on the outside circumference of the black part.

For threading a bar into to closing the collet by unscrewing the
black part a bit.

The pin in the bore of the silver part is to engage the key in
the collet to prevent it from rotating as you attempt to close or open
the collet with the black ring.

The I.D. of the small ring is threaded. (The two bars don't seem to
serve a purpose).

The small ring should thread onto the back of a collet. You say
that you have a set, so try it.

The larger bar probably threads into the black part to apply
force to it to close or open the collet while it is gripped in the chuck
of a larger lathe.

The smaller bar I suspect is for turning the small threaded ring
to capture or release the collet when you need to change collets.

Pick up the parts, and an example collet and play with them to
see how they go together. This particular design is probably not as
precise in centering (even if tuned on center with a 4-jaw chuck), but
has the advantage that it closes the collet without drawing it back so
the workpiece position does not shaft towards the headstock as it is
closed.

* * * * It is sort of like the square and hex collet blocks for use
with a milling machine. *To see examples of these, see eBay auction:

* * * * 400116973584

Yes, I have both. The square and hex.

So you know how they work.

Anyway -- I don't see what you have illustrated as being any use in a
lathe which qualifies as "mini". :-)

I also have a full set of 5C collets at every 1/32nd for when I was
thinking of milling larger diameter stock than 3C would allow. But
since I now have a mini mill/drill project that I plan to fix I
probably won't need all the MT3 stuff. (Like the endmill holders). Now
I'll need R8 tooling.

But the collet blocks and the collets can be used with the mill
and a vise to cut square or hex ends on workpieces.

http://www.harborfreight.com/two-spe...ine-44991.html

You will need a set of R8 collets, or some R8 shanked end mill
holders however. *Don't* try to hold an end mill in the drill chuck.
It is poorly designed for that task.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On May 8, 12:48*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-08, Searcher7 wrote:

On May 7, 9:27*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-07, Searcher7 wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * Could you bother saying what the size of the lathe is?
"Mini-Lathe" does not devine it for me.

Sorry. I have a red 7" x 14" Microlux. The newer one is exactly the
same, but gray. (That's "grey" in the U.K.). :-)
http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-7X...ATHE,8176.html

* * * * Anyway -- the first one is 4" diameter, and a 3-jaw chuck
normally should not be much larger than 1/2 the swing of the lathe. *At
a guess, your "mini-lathe" could be one of the 7x10" lathes, which would
put a maximum 3-jaw chuck size of 3-1/2". *(4-jaw chucks can be, and
often are, larger.) *This chuck is for at least an 8" swing lathe.

* * * * [ ... ]

The seller may put them back up, but obviously money is better spent
on something more useful for my machine. Thanks.

* * * * Better. *You probably *could* make alternate backplates for
those chucks, but you would have to be *very* careful never to back the
jaws out enough so they could hit the bed under power. *Better to have
the 3-1/2" chucks and be *sure* that they will be clear.

I assume that I'd have to be just as mindful as when and if I get a
regular 5" chuck for this lathe.

Speaking of collet chucks. I can't seem to find much info on the one I
have shown at the top of this page:

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I have to figure out how to use it and if I'm missing any parts.(It
came in the same box which was supposed to contain the 5C collect
chuck).

* * * * I think that this is intended to be held in a larger chuck (or a
in a *very* large collet) to do a makeshift adaptation to 5C collets. *I
can't see clearly whether the black end has a proper taper for closing a
5C collet or not. *The other end certainly does not.

* * * * If the black end has the taper for a 5C collet, you thread the
collet into the separate ring (which I presume has threads on the ID to
match a 5C collet) chuck the silver part in the chuck or very large
collet, and use the tommy bar to rotate the black part to close the
collet.

I added three clearer pics of it taken apart:
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I can see some sort of taper inside the opening at the non-threaded
end of the black part that starts at about 1-7/16" in diameter. It
tapers down for about a 1/2" before the I.D. straightens out the rest
of the way at about 1-1/4" diameter).

* * * * O.K. *So it works the way I expected.

Also,a s you can see there are eight threaded holes that are about
7/16" deep, on the outside circumference of the black part.

* * * * For threading a bar into to closing the collet by unscrewing the
black part a bit.

Ok. So the larger bar in the pic is what I'm supposed to thread in
order to use it.

* * * * The pin in the bore of the silver part is to engage the key in
the collet to prevent it from rotating as you attempt to close or open
the collet with the black ring.

The I.D. of the small ring is threaded. (The two bars don't seem to
serve a purpose).

* * * * The small ring should thread onto the back of a collet. *You say
that you have a set, so try it.

Ok, I'll have to dig those out of storage.

* * * * The larger bar probably threads into the black part to apply
force to it to close or open the collet while it is gripped in the chuck
of a larger lathe.

* * * * The smaller bar I suspect is for turning the small threaded ring
to capture or release the collet when you need to change collets.

You lost me there. There is nothing apparent about how the small bar
might work with the other parts.

* * * * Pick up the parts, and an example collet and play with them to
see how they go together. *This particular design is probably not as
precise in centering (even if tuned on center with a 4-jaw chuck), but
has the advantage that it closes the collet without drawing it back so
the workpiece position does not shaft towards the headstock as it is
closed.


* * * * It is sort of like the square and hex collet blocks for use
with a milling machine. *To see examples of these, see eBay auction:

* * * * 400116973584

Yes, I have both. The square and hex.

* * * * So you know how they work.

Anyway -- I don't see what you have illustrated as being any use in a
lathe which qualifies as "mini". :-)

I'll keep it for light duty stuff, since the work would be pretty far
away from the spindle.

I also have a full set of 5C collets at every 1/32nd for when I was
thinking of milling larger diameter stock than 3C would allow. But
since I now have a mini mill/drill project that I plan to fix I
probably won't need all the MT3 stuff. (Like the endmill holders). Now
I'll need R8 tooling.

* * * * But the collet blocks and the collets can be used with the mill
and a vise to cut square or hex ends on workpieces.

That's the plan. I just have to figure out what to do with tolls like
the MT3 endmill holders.

http://www.harborfreight.com/two-spe...ill-drill-mach...

* * * * You will need a set of R8 collets, or some R8 shanked end mill
holders however. **Don't* try to hold an end mill in the drill chuck.
It is poorly designed for that task.

Yes. that JT33 drill chuck came with the mill/drill.(So now I have
two).

* * * * Enjoy,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

As for the "adjust tru". I guess unless I plan to so a high quantity
of the same size it would be more work(and cost) than it's worth.

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On 2010-05-09, Searcher7 wrote:
On May 8, 12:48*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

[ ... ]

The seller may put them back up, but obviously money is better spent
on something more useful for my machine. Thanks.

* * * * Better. *You probably *could* make alternate backplates for
those chucks, but you would have to be *very* careful never to back the
jaws out enough so they could hit the bed under power. *Better to have
the 3-1/2" chucks and be *sure* that they will be clear.

I assume that I'd have to be just as mindful as when and if I get a
regular 5" chuck for this lathe.

Yes. What size chuck comes with the lathe? I would not expect
much larger than 3-1/2". On my 12" swing Clausing, I use a 6-1/4" Bison
3-jaw chuck, but a 10" Burnard Pratt 4-jaw one. (Or sometimes, such as
tonight, a Sherline 3-1/2" or so 4-jaw on a 5C collet spindle. When I
don't need the size, it is a lot lighter to install.

Speaking of collet chucks. I can't seem to find much info on the one I
have shown at the top of this page:

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/


[ ... ]

I added three clearer pics of it taken apart:
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I can see some sort of taper inside the opening at the non-threaded
end of the black part that starts at about 1-7/16" in diameter. It
tapers down for about a 1/2" before the I.D. straightens out the rest
of the way at about 1-1/4" diameter).

* * * * O.K. *So it works the way I expected.

Also,a s you can see there are eight threaded holes that are about
7/16" deep, on the outside circumference of the black part.

* * * * For threading a bar into to closing the collet by unscrewing the
black part a bit.

Ok. So the larger bar in the pic is what I'm supposed to thread in
order to use it.

Yes.

* * * * The pin in the bore of the silver part is to engage the key in
the collet to prevent it from rotating as you attempt to close or open
the collet with the black ring.

The I.D. of the small ring is threaded. (The two bars don't seem to
serve a purpose).

* * * * The small ring should thread onto the back of a collet. *You say
that you have a set, so try it.

Ok, I'll have to dig those out of storage.

* * * * The larger bar probably threads into the black part to apply
force to it to close or open the collet while it is gripped in the chuck
of a larger lathe.

* * * * The smaller bar I suspect is for turning the small threaded ring
to capture or release the collet when you need to change collets.

You lost me there. There is nothing apparent about how the small bar
might work with the other parts.

Look at the small ring. It threads onto the back of the collet
to hold it in the body. There needs to be some way to turn the ring
when threading it onto the back of the collet. Often, the ring will
either have a split screwdriver slot (continues on either side of the
large hole in the center), or a hole or two for a pin spanner wrench.
In this case, my *guess* (since you gave no photos close enough to the
ring and the bars to give any details) is that there is a hole in the
face of the ring.

To assemble the collet, you first screw the black piece fully
into the the white one, slide the collet in through the black, aligning
the key with the pin in the white part. then turn it over and drop the
small ring into the recess on the back, stick the small bar into one
hole to turn the ring around the end of the collet to screw it on and
retain the collet in the chuck. To close or open the collet, you turn
the black part with the bar, and then *carefully* remember to unscrew
the bar before you turn on the spindle motor. :-)

[ ... ]

Anyway -- I don't see what you have illustrated as being any use in a
lathe which qualifies as "mini". :-)

I'll keep it for light duty stuff, since the work would be pretty far
away from the spindle.

I really think that it would not work well in a lathe as small
as yours. Keep it for when you get a larger lathe, or find someone to
sell it to.

[ ... ]

* * * * But the collet blocks and the collets can be used with the mill
and a vise to cut square or hex ends on workpieces.

That's the plan. I just have to figure out what to do with tolls like
the MT3 endmill holders.

Why do you have them, if they do not fit your mill?

http://www.harborfreight.com/two-spe...ill-drill-mach...

* * * * You will need a set of R8 collets, or some R8 shanked end mill
holders however. **Don't* try to hold an end mill in the drill chuck.
It is poorly designed for that task.

Yes. that JT33 drill chuck came with the mill/drill.(So now I have
two).

:-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Mon, 10 May 2010 06:30:07 +0000, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-05-09, Searcher7 wrote:
On May 8, 12:48Â*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
[ ... ]
I assume that I'd have to be just as mindful as when and if I get a
regular 5" chuck for this lathe.

Yes. What size chuck comes with the lathe? I would not expect
much larger than 3-1/2".

Standard and optional items for the Sieg C2-style 7x-- minilathes
usually include 3" 3-jaw chuck, 4" 4-jaw chuck, and 6"+ faceplate.
See eg http://www.7xlathes.com/ and
http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-7X14-MINI-LATHE,8176.html.
However, littlemachineshop.com lists a number of 5" chucks and
adapters for Sieg C2-style minilathes, as at eg
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_focus.php?Focus=Mini+Lathe+Accessories

[ ... ]

Â* Â* Â* Â* But the collet blocks and the collets can be used with the
Â* Â* Â* Â* mill
and a vise to cut square or hex ends on workpieces.

That's the plan. I just have to figure out what to do with tools like
the MT3 endmill holders.

Why do you have them, if they do not fit your mill?

Maybe he planned (before he got the mill) to use them for
milling on his lathe. The 7x14 mini lathe has MT3 spindle
taper and MT2 tailstock taper.

--
jiw

On May 10, 2:30*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-09, Searcher7 wrote:

On May 8, 12:48*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

The seller may put them back up, but obviously money is better spent
on something more useful for my machine. Thanks.

* * * * Better. *You probably *could* make alternate backplates for
those chucks, but you would have to be *very* careful never to back the
jaws out enough so they could hit the bed under power. *Better to have
the 3-1/2" chucks and be *sure* that they will be clear.

I assume that I'd have to be just as mindful as when and if I get a
regular 5" chuck for this lathe.

* * * * Yes. *What size chuck comes with the lathe? *I would not expect
much larger than 3-1/2". *On my 12" swing Clausing, I use a 6-1/4" Bison
3-jaw chuck, but a 10" Burnard Pratt 4-jaw one. *(Or sometimes, such as
tonight, a Sherline 3-1/2" or so 4-jaw on a 5C collet spindle. *When I
don't need the size, it is a lot lighter to install.

3" is the size of the chuck that came with my 7" x 14" lathe.(I wanted
to turn 4-1/2" plates,which is why I settled on getting the 5" four
jaw chuck, which I'd also use with the 6" rotary table I'm about to
get for my mini mill/drill.

Speaking of collet chucks. I can't seem to find much info on the one I
have shown at the top of this page:

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

* * * * [ ... ]



I added three clearer pics of it taken apart:
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I can see some sort of taper inside the opening at the non-threaded
end of the black part that starts at about 1-7/16" in diameter. It
tapers down for about a 1/2" before the I.D. straightens out the rest
of the way at about 1-1/4" diameter).

* * * * O.K. *So it works the way I expected.

Also,a s you can see there are eight threaded holes that are about
7/16" deep, on the outside circumference of the black part.

* * * * For threading a bar into to closing the collet by unscrewing the
black part a bit.

Ok. So the larger bar in the pic is what I'm supposed to thread in
order to use it.

* * * * Yes.



* * * * The pin in the bore of the silver part is to engage the key in
the collet to prevent it from rotating as you attempt to close or open
the collet with the black ring.

The I.D. of the small ring is threaded. (The two bars don't seem to
serve a purpose).

* * * * The small ring should thread onto the back of a collet.. *You say
that you have a set, so try it.

Ok, I'll have to dig those out of storage.

* * * * The larger bar probably threads into the black part to apply
force to it to close or open the collet while it is gripped in the chuck
of a larger lathe.

* * * * The smaller bar I suspect is for turning the small threaded ring
to capture or release the collet when you need to change collets.

You lost me there. There is nothing apparent about how the small bar
might work with the other parts.

* * * * Look at the small ring. *It threads onto the back of the collet
to hold it in the body. *There needs to be some way to turn the ring
when threading it onto the back of the collet. *Often, the ring will
either have a split screwdriver slot (continues on either side of the
large hole in the center), or a hole or two for a pin spanner wrench.
In this case, my *guess* (since you gave no photos close enough to the
ring and the bars to give any details) is that there is a hole in the
face of the ring.

The ring only has threads at the I.D. and is knurled on the O.D. There
are no slot, holes, etc. on the ring. It was definitely meant to be
turned by hand.

* * * * To assemble the collet, you first screw the black piece fully
into the the white one, slide the collet in through the black, aligning
the key with the pin in the white part. *then turn it over and drop the
small ring into the recess on the back, stick the small bar into one
hole to turn the ring around the end of the collet to screw it on and
retain the collet in the chuck. *To close or open the collet, you turn
the black part with the bar, and then *carefully* remember to unscrew
the bar before you turn on the spindle motor. :-)

Or, as you would put it, things would get pretty exciting. :-)

* * * * [ ... ]

Anyway -- I don't see what you have illustrated as being any use in a
lathe which qualifies as "mini". :-)

I'll keep it for light duty stuff, since the work would be pretty far
away from the spindle.

* * * * I really think that it would not work well in a lathe as small
as yours. *Keep it for when you get a larger lathe, or find someone to
sell it to.

Ok. :-(

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * But the collet blocks and the collets can be used with the mill
and a vise to cut square or hex ends on workpieces.

That's the plan. I just have to figure out what to do with tolls like
the MT3 endmill holders.

* * * * Why do you have them, if they do not fit your mill?

Before I picked up the mini mill/drill my intend was to get the lathes
milling attachment. (The lathe's spindle is MT3).

http://www.harborfreight.com/two-spe...ill-drill-mach....

* * * * You will need a set of R8 collets, or some R8 shanked end mill
holders however. **Don't* try to hold an end mill in the drill chuck..
It is poorly designed for that task.

Yes. that JT33 drill chuck came with the mill/drill.(So now I have
two).

* * * * :-)

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On May 10, 10:47*am, Searcher7 wrote:
On May 10, 2:30*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:



On 2010-05-09, Searcher7 wrote:

On May 8, 12:48*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

The seller may put them back up, but obviously money is better spent
on something more useful for my machine. Thanks.

* * * * Better. *You probably *could* make alternate backplates for
those chucks, but you would have to be *very* careful never to back the
jaws out enough so they could hit the bed under power. *Better to have
the 3-1/2" chucks and be *sure* that they will be clear.

I assume that I'd have to be just as mindful as when and if I get a
regular 5" chuck for this lathe.

* * * * Yes. *What size chuck comes with the lathe? *I would not expect
much larger than 3-1/2". *On my 12" swing Clausing, I use a 6-1/4" Bison
3-jaw chuck, but a 10" Burnard Pratt 4-jaw one. *(Or sometimes, such as
tonight, a Sherline 3-1/2" or so 4-jaw on a 5C collet spindle. *When I
don't need the size, it is a lot lighter to install.

3" is the size of the chuck that came with my 7" x 14" lathe.(I wanted
to turn 4-1/2" plates,which is why I settled on getting the 5" four
jaw chuck, which I'd also use with the 6" rotary table I'm about to
get for my mini mill/drill.



Speaking of collet chucks. I can't seem to find much info on the one I
have shown at the top of this page:

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

* * * * [ ... ]

I added three clearer pics of it taken apart:
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I can see some sort of taper inside the opening at the non-threaded
end of the black part that starts at about 1-7/16" in diameter. It
tapers down for about a 1/2" before the I.D. straightens out the rest
of the way at about 1-1/4" diameter).

* * * * O.K. *So it works the way I expected.

Also,a s you can see there are eight threaded holes that are about
7/16" deep, on the outside circumference of the black part.

* * * * For threading a bar into to closing the collet by unscrewing the
black part a bit.

Ok. So the larger bar in the pic is what I'm supposed to thread in
order to use it.

* * * * Yes.

* * * * The pin in the bore of the silver part is to engage the key in
the collet to prevent it from rotating as you attempt to close or open
the collet with the black ring.

The I.D. of the small ring is threaded. (The two bars don't seem to
serve a purpose).

* * * * The small ring should thread onto the back of a collet. *You say
that you have a set, so try it.

Ok, I'll have to dig those out of storage.

* * * * The larger bar probably threads into the black part to apply
force to it to close or open the collet while it is gripped in the chuck
of a larger lathe.

* * * * The smaller bar I suspect is for turning the small threaded ring
to capture or release the collet when you need to change collets.

You lost me there. There is nothing apparent about how the small bar
might work with the other parts.

* * * * Look at the small ring. *It threads onto the back of the collet
to hold it in the body. *There needs to be some way to turn the ring
when threading it onto the back of the collet. *Often, the ring will
either have a split screwdriver slot (continues on either side of the
large hole in the center), or a hole or two for a pin spanner wrench.
In this case, my *guess* (since you gave no photos close enough to the
ring and the bars to give any details) is that there is a hole in the
face of the ring.

The ring only has threads at the I.D. and is knurled on the O.D. There
are no slot, holes, etc. on the ring. It was definitely meant to be
turned by hand.

* * * * To assemble the collet, you first screw the black piece fully
into the the white one, slide the collet in through the black, aligning
the key with the pin in the white part. *then turn it over and drop the
small ring into the recess on the back, stick the small bar into one
hole to turn the ring around the end of the collet to screw it on and
retain the collet in the chuck. *To close or open the collet, you turn
the black part with the bar, and then *carefully* remember to unscrew
the bar before you turn on the spindle motor. :-)

Or, as you would put it, things would get pretty exciting. :-)

* * * * [ ... ]

Anyway -- I don't see what you have illustrated as being any use in a
lathe which qualifies as "mini". :-)

I'll keep it for light duty stuff, since the work would be pretty far
away from the spindle.

* * * * I really think that it would not work well in a lathe as small
as yours. *Keep it for when you get a larger lathe, or find someone to
sell it to.

Ok. :-(

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * But the collet blocks and the collets can be used with the mill
and a vise to cut square or hex ends on workpieces.

That's the plan. I just have to figure out what to do with tolls like
the MT3 endmill holders.

* * * * Why do you have them, if they do not fit your mill?

Before I picked up the mini mill/drill my intend was to get the lathes
milling attachment. (The lathe's spindle is MT3).



http://www.harborfreight.com/two-spe...ill-drill-mach...

* * * * You will need a set of R8 collets, or some R8 shanked end mill
holders however. **Don't* try to hold an end mill in the drill chuck.
It is poorly designed for that task.

Yes. that JT33 drill chuck came with the mill/drill.(So now I have
two).

* * * * :-)

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

For informational purposes, here is another option.

http://www.statecollegecentral.com/m...the/MLA21.html

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On May 15, 1:40*pm, Searcher7 wrote:
On May 10, 10:47*am, Searcher7 wrote:



On May 10, 2:30*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2010-05-09, Searcher7 wrote:

On May 8, 12:48*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

The seller may put them back up, but obviously money is better spent
on something more useful for my machine. Thanks.

* * * * Better. *You probably *could* make alternate backplates for
those chucks, but you would have to be *very* careful never to back the
jaws out enough so they could hit the bed under power. *Better to have
the 3-1/2" chucks and be *sure* that they will be clear.

I assume that I'd have to be just as mindful as when and if I get a
regular 5" chuck for this lathe.

* * * * Yes. *What size chuck comes with the lathe? *I would not expect
much larger than 3-1/2". *On my 12" swing Clausing, I use a 6-1/4" Bison
3-jaw chuck, but a 10" Burnard Pratt 4-jaw one. *(Or sometimes, such as
tonight, a Sherline 3-1/2" or so 4-jaw on a 5C collet spindle. *When I
don't need the size, it is a lot lighter to install.

3" is the size of the chuck that came with my 7" x 14" lathe.(I wanted
to turn 4-1/2" plates,which is why I settled on getting the 5" four
jaw chuck, which I'd also use with the 6" rotary table I'm about to
get for my mini mill/drill.

Speaking of collet chucks. I can't seem to find much info on the one I
have shown at the top of this page:

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

* * * * [ ... ]

I added three clearer pics of it taken apart:
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I can see some sort of taper inside the opening at the non-threaded
end of the black part that starts at about 1-7/16" in diameter. It
tapers down for about a 1/2" before the I.D. straightens out the rest
of the way at about 1-1/4" diameter).

* * * * O.K. *So it works the way I expected.

Also,a s you can see there are eight threaded holes that are about
7/16" deep, on the outside circumference of the black part.

* * * * For threading a bar into to closing the collet by unscrewing the
black part a bit.

Ok. So the larger bar in the pic is what I'm supposed to thread in
order to use it.

* * * * Yes.

* * * * The pin in the bore of the silver part is to engage the key in
the collet to prevent it from rotating as you attempt to close or open
the collet with the black ring.

The I.D. of the small ring is threaded. (The two bars don't seem to
serve a purpose).

* * * * The small ring should thread onto the back of a collet. *You say
that you have a set, so try it.

Ok, I'll have to dig those out of storage.

* * * * The larger bar probably threads into the black part to apply
force to it to close or open the collet while it is gripped in the chuck
of a larger lathe.

* * * * The smaller bar I suspect is for turning the small threaded ring
to capture or release the collet when you need to change collets.

You lost me there. There is nothing apparent about how the small bar
might work with the other parts.

* * * * Look at the small ring. *It threads onto the back of the collet
to hold it in the body. *There needs to be some way to turn the ring
when threading it onto the back of the collet. *Often, the ring will
either have a split screwdriver slot (continues on either side of the
large hole in the center), or a hole or two for a pin spanner wrench.
In this case, my *guess* (since you gave no photos close enough to the
ring and the bars to give any details) is that there is a hole in the
face of the ring.

The ring only has threads at the I.D. and is knurled on the O.D. There
are no slot, holes, etc. on the ring. It was definitely meant to be
turned by hand.

* * * * To assemble the collet, you first screw the black piece fully
into the the white one, slide the collet in through the black, aligning
the key with the pin in the white part. *then turn it over and drop the
small ring into the recess on the back, stick the small bar into one
hole to turn the ring around the end of the collet to screw it on and
retain the collet in the chuck. *To close or open the collet, you turn
the black part with the bar, and then *carefully* remember to unscrew
the bar before you turn on the spindle motor. :-)

Or, as you would put it, things would get pretty exciting. :-)

* * * * [ ... ]

Anyway -- I don't see what you have illustrated as being any use in a
lathe which qualifies as "mini". :-)

I'll keep it for light duty stuff, since the work would be pretty far
away from the spindle.

* * * * I really think that it would not work well in a lathe as small
as yours. *Keep it for when you get a larger lathe, or find someone to
sell it to.

Ok. :-(

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * But the collet blocks and the collets can be used with the mill
and a vise to cut square or hex ends on workpieces.

That's the plan. I just have to figure out what to do with tolls like
the MT3 endmill holders.

* * * * Why do you have them, if they do not fit your mill?

Before I picked up the mini mill/drill my intend was to get the lathes
milling attachment. (The lathe's spindle is MT3).

http://www.harborfreight.com/two-spe...ill-drill-mach...

* * * * You will need a set of R8 collets, or some R8 shanked end mill
holders however. **Don't* try to hold an end mill in the drill chuck.
It is poorly designed for that task.

Yes. that JT33 drill chuck came with the mill/drill.(So now I have
two).

* * * * :-)

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

For informational purposes, here is another option.

http://www.statecollegecentral.com/m...the/MLA21.html

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Now it isn't "Adjust-Tru" but since it is on special I am considering
finally picking this up.

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...ProductID=3047

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On 2010-05-23, Searcher7 wrote:

[ ... ]

Now it isn't "Adjust-Tru" but since it is on special I am considering
finally picking this up.

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...ProductID=3047

Can you get the backplate for it for your lathe?

Or can you make your own backplate?

I forget whether your lathe is a threaded spindle, or has bolts
passing through the spindle nose flange to lock down the chuck
backplate.

For example, the 1"-10 thread adaptor in 5" diameter listed in
the "compatibility" section costs an additional $30.00

Hmm ... the "Micro-Mark" section says '3" flange' (which was
what I was afraid of), and that sends us to an adaptor for a 5" diameter
chuck which costs $28.95.

Call them and make sure that you get the right combination of
chuck, backplate, and possible other things for *your* lathe.

Note that if the concentricity is not correct, you can't easily
fix that unlike with the "Adjust-Tru" feature. It all depends on just
how accurate you want your collets to be -- but usually collets (with
the right adaptor) are the choice for concentricity

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On May 23, 1:16*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-23, Searcher7 wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

Now it isn't "Adjust-Tru" but since it is on special I am considering
finally picking this up.

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...ProductID=3047

* * * * Can you get the backplate for it for your lathe?

Yes. LMS sells them.

* * * * Or can you make your own backplate?

That's something I have to learn.

* * * * I forget whether your lathe is a threaded spindle, or has bolts
passing through the spindle nose flange to lock down the chuck
backplate.

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...ProductID=2027

* * * * For example, the 1"-10 thread adaptor in 5" diameter listed in
the "compatibility" section costs an additional $30.00

* * * * Hmm ... the "Micro-Mark" section says '3" flange' (which was
what I was afraid of), and that sends us to an adaptor for a 5" diameter
chuck which costs $28.95.

The 5C collet chuck uses the same adaptor plate as the 5" 4-jaw chuck
I was going to get.
http://littlemachineshop.com/product...ProductID=2346

I say "was" because I wanted the option of mounting the same chuck on
my rotary table which will no longer be the Phase II they have since
I've now won a Vertex on eBay. (I should probably be thinking of a
slimline chuck for the rotary table anyway if I can make an adaptor
for it).

* * * * Call them and make sure that you get the right combination of
chuck, backplate, and possible other things for *your* lathe.

* * * * Note that if the concentricity is not correct, you can't easily
fix that unlike with the "Adjust-Tru" feature. *It all depends on just
how accurate you want your collets to be -- but usually collets (with
the right adaptor) are the choice for concentricity

Reading between the lines, since I have that 5C collet chuck we
discuss a couple weeks ago,..

(http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...lander/Tools/?
action=view&current=5CColletChuck5.jpg)

....the LMS chuck wouldn't be worth it and I should instead make a
larger jump to one with "adjust-Tru" when the time comes, correct?

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On 2010-05-24, Searcher7 wrote:
On May 23, 1:16*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-23, Searcher7 wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

Now it isn't "Adjust-Tru" but since it is on special I am considering
finally picking this up.

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...ProductID=3047

* * * * Can you get the backplate for it for your lathe?

Yes. LMS sells them.

Good!

* * * * Or can you make your own backplate?

That's something I have to learn.

And for this style, it is a little trickier than for a threaded
spindle nose. Here, you have to make a recess which is a good fit on
the boss on the left-hand end (as shown in your URL below), and then
drill and tap three or four holes, depending on the number of jaws on
the chuck (though with a backplate, I would go for three holes no matter
what). That spindle nose has 6 holes patterned so either a three-hole
pattern at 120 degree intervals, or a 4-hole pattern at 90 degree angles
will work, with one hole serving in both patterns.

You need to make either a three-hole or a four-hole pattern to
match, and without the rotary table and the ability to set the mill
spindle precisely to the right radius, it is easier to use a spare
spindle (such as the above) and use centering punches sized to fit the
holes to mark the holes you need -- then drill and tap them without
letting the holes wander.

* * * * I forget whether your lathe is a threaded spindle, or has bolts
passing through the spindle nose flange to lock down the chuck
backplate.

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...ProductID=2027

[ ... ]

The 5C collet chuck uses the same adaptor plate as the 5" 4-jaw chuck
I was going to get.
http://littlemachineshop.com/product...ProductID=2346

O.K.

I say "was" because I wanted the option of mounting the same chuck on
my rotary table which will no longer be the Phase II they have since
I've now won a Vertex on eBay. (I should probably be thinking of a
slimline chuck for the rotary table anyway if I can make an adaptor
for it).

O.K. Given the rotary table, and the lathe, you can probably
make an adaptor plate which centers on the table, accepts the chuck, and
bolts to the table's T-slots.

* * * * Call them and make sure that you get the right combination of
chuck, backplate, and possible other things for *your* lathe.

* * * * Note that if the concentricity is not correct, you can't easily
fix that unlike with the "Adjust-Tru" feature. *It all depends on just
how accurate you want your collets to be -- but usually collets (with
the right adaptor) are the choice for concentricity

Reading between the lines, since I have that 5C collet chuck we
discuss a couple weeks ago,..

(http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...lander/Tools/?
action=view&current=5CColletChuck5.jpg)

...the LMS chuck wouldn't be worth it and I should instead make a
larger jump to one with "adjust-Tru" when the time comes, correct?

Yes. Of course, none of these would be necessary if you had a
large enough lathe to accept the 5C collets directly in the spindle
nosepiece, or in an adaptor which fits the spindle's internal taper.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Apr 27, 8:44*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-04-27, steamer wrote:

* *--I've got a 5" Buck6-jawon my Myford Super 7. Had to make a
backplate as none were available but worth every bit of heartache to get it
done. If Buck makes achucksmall enough to fit your lathe go for it. Nice
thing about the6-jaw: you can leave one jaw out, if necessary, to
accomodate lumpy castings, etc but the full 6 gives you the ability to grip
relatively small stuff: 3-jaw chucks tend to have fairly blunt gripping ends
but the6-jawvariety are much pointier, so to speak.

* * * * Also -- another significant advantage to a6-jawis that when
clamping thin-walled tubing the6-jawintroduces less deflection than
the 3-jaw does.

* * * * However -- a benefit for the 3-jaw. *With an irregular surface
on the workpiece, a 3-jaw *always* gets full contact with each jaw.
(3-points are self centering). *With6-jaw, it is likely that one or
more of the jaws will not be making proper contact, reducing it in
effect to a 3-jaw with skinnier points.

* * * * And for either 3 or6 jaw-- if thechuckhas a separate
backplate, it is possible to make a spacer with some other features to
turn it into an Adjust-Tru (or any of a number of other trademarked
names, depending on the maker of thechuck. :-)

* * * * First -- you turn a recess in the center of the mounting plate,
and mount a round piece of steel in that, with several countersunk
bolts. *Best if it is a good tight fit in the recess so it can't shift
in there.

* * * * Then -- turn up a spacer ring to go between thechuckbody and
the backplate. *Drill and countersink it for bolts to attach it to thechuckbody which go into the threaded holes which the backplate normally
bolts to.

* * * * Drill and tap four radial holes at 90 degree intervals around
the ring for setscrews to press on the original round piece of steel.

* * * * Then drill and tap holes in the ring to match the holes in the
backplate, enlarge the backplate holes (and countersinks if present) a
bit to allow motion, and attach the ring to the backplate with these.

* * * * In use -- loosen the backplate bolts to finger tight, and use
the radial setscrews to shift thechuckto true (relative to the
backplate) for the workpiece size in use at the moment, and snug the
backplate bolts and re-check the centering. *If it is still on center,
snug them down firmly and triple check the centering. *You are now ready
to turn.

* * * * Enjoy,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

All this talk of a 6-jaw has me thinking.

I have an opportunity to pick up a 4-1/2" "self-centering", plain back
6-jaw chuck, as opposed to the independent 5" plain back 4-jaw chuck I
was considering.

I'm not sure of the maximum gripping size of the 6-jaw, but it's
through bore is 32mm, which is 2mm larger than the 5" chuck, which can
grip up to 4.92".

So I'm wondering if I could make adapter plates so I can use it with
my lathe and my rotary table if needed.

I have read that one can remove three jaws if needed and also that it
was possible to turn squares with the 6-jaw if chucked properly. I
don't know how true any of this is, but I'm really interested in what
you said about making a spacer with some other features to turn it
into an "Adjust-Tru". :-)

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Sat, 29 May 2010 13:26:26 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7
wrote:


All this talk of a 6-jaw has me thinking.

I have an opportunity to pick up a 4-1/2" "self-centering", plain back
6-jaw chuck, as opposed to the independent 5" plain back 4-jaw chuck I
was considering.

If the question is, "Is a 6-jaw as versatile as a 4-jaw?" the answer
is an emphatic "no."

--
Ned Simmons

On Sat, 29 May 2010 16:50:07 -0400, Ned Simmons wrote:

On Sat, 29 May 2010 13:26:26 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7
wrote:


All this talk of a 6-jaw has me thinking.

I have an opportunity to pick up a 4-1/2" "self-centering", plain back
6-jaw chuck, as opposed to the independent 5" plain back 4-jaw chuck I
was considering.

If the question is, "Is a 6-jaw as versatile as a 4-jaw?" the answer
is an emphatic "no."


A 6 jaw is generally the same type of chuck as the 3 jaw. But it has
double the number of jaws, for when you need to chuck up thinner
stuff..it tends to "dent" the work less and hold better. But its not a
do all life saver. But its damned nice to have.

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Searcher7 writes:

I have read that one can remove three jaws if needed ...

Right.

... and also that it
was possible to turn squares with the 6-jaw if chucked properly.

You can hold rectangular things with 3 or 4 jaws of the 6. Using 4 will
center one side, which is one more side than a 4-jaw chuck automatically
centers.

Ned Simmons writes:

If the question is, "Is a 6-jaw as versatile as a 4-jaw?" the answer
is an emphatic "no."

Only if self-centering is not an element of versatility.

On 2010-05-29, Searcher7 wrote:
On Apr 27, 8:44*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-04-27, steamer wrote:

[ ... ]

* * * * Also -- another significant advantage to a 6-jaw is that when
clamping thin-walled tubing the 6-jaw introduces less deflection than
the 3-jaw does.

[ ... ]

* * * * And for either 3 or 6 jaw-- if the chuck has a separate
backplate, it is possible to make a spacer with some other features to
turn it into an Adjust-Tru (or any of a number of other trademarked
names, depending on the maker of thechuck. :-)

* * * * First -- you turn a recess in the center of the mounting plate,
and mount a round piece of steel in that, with several countersunk
bolts. *Best if it is a good tight fit in the recess so it can't shift
in there.

* * * * Then -- turn up a spacer ring to go between thechuckbody and the
backplate. *Drill and countersink it for bolts to attach it to
thechuckbody which go into the threaded holes which the backplate
normally bolts to.

* * * * Drill and tap four radial holes at 90 degree intervals around
the ring for setscrews to press on the original round piece of steel.

* * * * Then drill and tap holes in the ring to match the holes in the
backplate, enlarge the backplate holes (and countersinks if present) a
bit to allow motion, and attach the ring to the backplate with these.

* * * * In use -- loosen the backplate bolts to finger tight, and use
the radial setscrews to shift thechuckto true (relative to the
backplate) for the workpiece size in use at the moment, and snug the
backplate bolts and re-check the centering. *If it is still on center,
snug them down firmly and triple check the centering. *You are now ready
to turn.

[ ... ]

All this talk of a 6-jaw has me thinking.

I have an opportunity to pick up a 4-1/2" "self-centering", plain back
6-jaw chuck, as opposed to the independent 5" plain back 4-jaw chuck I
was considering.

I'm not sure of the maximum gripping size of the 6-jaw, but it's
through bore is 32mm, which is 2mm larger than the 5" chuck, which can
grip up to 4.92".

As for maximum gripping size -- does it come with a set of
reverse jaws? The one which I have does not have the reverse jaws, so
I am somewhat limited there. (Also, if it comes with two-piece jaws,
you can reverse the top jaws and get the same effect.)

As for the through bore -- that doesn't make much difference
unless your spindle has as large a hole all the way through it. Without
that, you simply can handle things only with a little greater extension
into the body of the chuck.

So I'm wondering if I could make adapter plates so I can use it with
my lathe and my rotary table if needed.

Sure -- as long as it is enough smaller than the rotary table
itself.

I have read that one can remove three jaws if needed and also that it
was possible to turn squares with the 6-jaw if chucked properly.

Probably so -- but tricky to set up. And for handling things
like irregular shaped objects, or turning an eccentric (such as the
bearings on a crankshaft for a model engine) -- a 4-jaw is really hard
to beat. Worry about getting a 6-jaw later, when you need to turn
thin-walled cylinders.

I
don't know how true any of this is, but I'm really interested in what
you said about making a spacer with some other features to turn it
into an "Adjust-Tru". :-)

The same can be done with a 3-jaw of course -- and it could be
done with a 4-jaw, but there is no point to that, unless you have a
"universal" (scroll-plate operated) 4-jaw, and those are rare.

And the first trick (before trying to make a 6-jaw chuck into an
adjust-tru type) is to try making a back plate for your spindle, since
it is different from the threaded ones which are easier to make. If you
can make one which centers accurately every time you install it, then
the rest of the project is within reach.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 31 May 2010 04:19:00 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

As for maximum gripping size -- does it come with a set of
reverse jaws? The one which I have does not have the reverse jaws, so
I am somewhat limited there. (Also, if it comes with two-piece jaws,
you can reverse the top jaws and get the same effect.)


Ive got a number of 6 jaw sets, both ID and OD. What is your chuck?

Ive got probably (15) 3 and more jaw sets, that dont fit any of my
chucks. Most of them are new, or new new.

If anyone needs any....


Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

On May 31, 12:19*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-29, Searcher7 wrote:

On Apr 27, 8:44*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-04-27, steamer wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * Also -- another significant advantage to a 6-jaw is that when
clamping thin-walled tubing the 6-jaw introduces less deflection than
the 3-jaw does.

* * * * [ ... ]



* * * * And for either 3 or 6 jaw-- if the chuck has a separate
backplate, it is possible to make a spacer with some other features to
turn it into an Adjust-Tru (or any of a number of other trademarked
names, depending on the maker of thechuck. :-)

* * * * First -- you turn a recess in the center of the mounting plate,
and mount a round piece of steel in that, with several countersunk
bolts. *Best if it is a good tight fit in the recess so it can't shift
in there.
* * * * Then -- turn up a spacer ring to go between thechuckbody and the
backplate. *Drill and countersink it for bolts to attach it to
thechuckbody which go into the threaded holes which the backplate
normally bolts to.
* * * * Drill and tap four radial holes at 90 degree intervals around
the ring for setscrews to press on the original round piece of steel.

* * * * Then drill and tap holes in the ring to match the holes in the
backplate, enlarge the backplate holes (and countersinks if present) a
bit to allow motion, and attach the ring to the backplate with these.

* * * * In use -- loosen the backplate bolts to finger tight, and use
the radial setscrews to shift thechuckto true (relative to the
backplate) for the workpiece size in use at the moment, and snug the
backplate bolts and re-check the centering. *If it is still on center,
snug them down firmly and triple check the centering. *You are now ready
to turn.

* * * * [ ... ]

All this talk of a 6-jaw has me thinking.

I have an opportunity to pick up a 4-1/2" "self-centering", plain back
6-jaw chuck, as opposed to the independent 5" plain back 4-jaw chuck I
was considering.

I'm not sure of the maximum gripping size of the 6-jaw, but it's
through bore is 32mm, which is 2mm larger than the 5" chuck, which can
grip up to 4.92".

* * * * As for maximum gripping size -- does it come with a set of
reverse jaws? *The one which I have does not have the reverse jaws, so
I am somewhat limited there. *(Also, if it comes with two-piece jaws,
you can reverse the top jaws and get the same effect.)

I don't think it comes with reverse jaws. Here it is on eBay:
350358162918

* * * * As for the through bore -- that doesn't make much difference
unless your spindle has as large a hole all the way through it. *Without
that, you simply can handle things only with a little greater extension
into the body of the chuck.

Well my 7" x 14" lathe only has a .787 dia spindle bore.
http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-7X...ATHE,8176.html

The spindle taper is MT3 so are MT3 collets the next best thing as far
as repeatability compared to something with adjust-tru?(Or am I not
understanding things correctly?).

My biggest issue is turning stock to diameter and then flipping it
around and turning the other end without too much trouble with the
issue of Concentricity.

So I'm wondering if I could make adapter plates so I can use it with
my lathe and my rotary table if needed.

* * * * Sure -- as long as it is enough smaller than the rotary table
itself.

Well, it's a 6" rotary table, so that shouldn't be a problem.

I have read that one can remove three jaws if needed and also that it
was possible to turn squares with the 6-jaw if chucked properly.

* * * * Probably so -- but tricky to set up. *And for handling things
like irregular shaped objects, or turning an eccentric (such as the
bearings on a crankshaft for a model engine) -- a 4-jaw is really hard
to beat. *Worry about getting a 6-jaw later, when you need to turn
thin-walled cylinders.

Ok, I guess it's back tot he independent 4-jaw. (I do have a lot of
Delrin and nylon to turn).

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *I
don't know how true any of this is, but I'm really interested in what
you said about making a spacer with some other features to turn it
into an "Adjust-Tru". :-)

* * * * The same can be done with a 3-jaw of course -- and it could be
done with a 4-jaw, but there is no point to that, unless you have a
"universal" (scroll-plate operated) 4-jaw, and those are rare.

* * * * And the first trick (before trying to make a 6-jaw chuck into an
adjust-tru type) is to try making a back plate for your spindle, since
it is different from the threaded ones which are easier to make. *If you
can make one which centers accurately every time you install it, then
the rest of the project is within reach.

Thanks. I was actually just reading about a back plate project.
http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCColletChuck.htm

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On 2010-05-31, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 31 May 2010 04:19:00 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

As for maximum gripping size -- does it come with a set of
reverse jaws? The one which I have does not have the reverse jaws, so
I am somewhat limited there. (Also, if it comes with two-piece jaws,
you can reverse the top jaws and get the same effect.)


Ive got a number of 6 jaw sets, both ID and OD. What is your chuck?

Great! I wonder what the odds are?

Bernard Pratt:

BP69/40883 (I suspect that after the slash is a serial
number)

OD: 6.318" 160.40 mm

Jaw dimensions:

Jaw set Number: 3684

OAL: 2.471" (the outside jaws may measure
somewhat different)

Width: 0.743"

Width in grooves: 0.449"

Groove width: 0.309"

From bottom of groove
to end of teeth: 0.278"

TPI: 0.250"

Ive got probably (15) 3 and more jaw sets, that dont fit any of my
chucks. Most of them are new, or new new.

My e-mail above is valid, but I've got a lot of IP addresses
blocked, so if the first bounces or gets no answer, try from another of
your e-mail accounts. Or, there is always the phone in my .sig below.

If anyone needs any....

Certainly -- if we can find a match.

I had trouble finding a match in the Bernard Pratt jaws catalog,
so I don't even know what they would charge for a set. :-)

BTW I met Howard Taylor (writes/draws _Schlock Mercenary_) last
Saturday. He was at the Baltimore Science Fiction Convention
and I picked up three of his dead-tree editions of the comic.

I know that you enjoy that one from something posted a few years
back -- which I think is what steered me to that comic.

It is amazing how fast he can do the sketches in the back page.
Two for me, one for my wife. Doc Bunninga, Elf (version w/small
legs), and Schlock himself.

And he is a great guy.

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2010-05-31, Searcher7 wrote:
On May 31, 12:19*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-05-29, Searcher7 wrote:

[ ... ]

* * * * As for maximum gripping size -- does it come with a set of
reverse jaws? *The one which I have does not have the reverse jaws, so
I am somewhat limited there. *(Also, if it comes with two-piece jaws,
you can reverse the top jaws and get the same effect.)

I don't think it comes with reverse jaws. Here it is on eBay:
350358162918

That one not only does not have the reverse jaws, it has an
unusual set of jaws -- a lot deeper than normal. They would be good for
holding a long thin-walled cylinder, but not for much else.

The web page you point out below shows a set of normal jaws on a
6-jaw chuck part way through the project.

* * * * As for the through bore -- that doesn't make much difference
unless your spindle has as large a hole all the way through it. *Without
that, you simply can handle things only with a little greater extension
into the body of the chuck.

Well my 7" x 14" lathe only has a .787 dia spindle bore.
http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-7X...ATHE,8176.html

So -- the best that you can do is the larger parts up to the
depth of the chuck body. (Not the distance to the backplate, because if
you make an adjust-tru style back for it, the backplate will be on the
other side of the spacer ring, but the projection inside will take up
most of that extra space.

The spindle taper is MT3 so are MT3 collets the next best thing as far
as repeatability compared to something with adjust-tru?(Or am I not
understanding things correctly?).

The collets should be better than the adjust-tru -- and
certainly don't need to be re-centered every time you change workpiece
diameter.

My biggest issue is turning stock to diameter and then flipping it
around and turning the other end without too much trouble with the
issue of Concentricity.

You need to learn to turn between centers. *That* is the best
way to deal with that. Do you have headstock center and tailstock live
center? Do you have a lathe dog and a dog driving faceplate? If so,
then you have all you need to handle long workpieces which need to be
reversed -- assuming that you can live with a center hole drilled in
each end.

So I'm wondering if I could make adapter plates so I can use it with
my lathe and my rotary table if needed.

* * * * Sure -- as long as it is enough smaller than the rotary table
itself.

Well, it's a 6" rotary table, so that shouldn't be a problem.

Right.

[ ... ]

Ok, I guess it's back tot he independent 4-jaw. (I do have a lot of
Delrin and nylon to turn).

Also -- a 4-jaw independent can help you to bore a hole quite a
ways off center at need.

[ ... ]

* * * * And the first trick (before trying to make a 6-jaw chuck into an
adjust-tru type) is to try making a back plate for your spindle, since
it is different from the threaded ones which are easier to make. *If you
can make one which centers accurately every time you install it, then
the rest of the project is within reach.

Thanks. I was actually just reading about a back plate project.
http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCColletChuck.htm

O.K. He did some things in ways that I would not -- including
turning the quick-change toolpost at 45 degrees when turning the taper.
This presented the edge of the insert tool at an angle which might not
have had enough relief.

Also -- I would have started by boring the center hole, then
marking the desired locations for the camlock bolts (perhaps with
transfer bolts and a plug which is a sliding fit on both bores), and
then face and turn the centering spud for the chuck.

And I would have made three threaded holes in the backplate for
using screws to jack it out from his shrink fit.

But -- everyone does things the way which makes sense to them.

And how much is his spindle like yours? I think not enough.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---