On May 10, 10:47*am, Searcher7 wrote:
On May 10, 2:30*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:



On 2010-05-09, Searcher7 wrote:

On May 8, 12:48*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

The seller may put them back up, but obviously money is better spent
on something more useful for my machine. Thanks.

* * * * Better. *You probably *could* make alternate backplates for
those chucks, but you would have to be *very* careful never to back the
jaws out enough so they could hit the bed under power. *Better to have
the 3-1/2" chucks and be *sure* that they will be clear.

I assume that I'd have to be just as mindful as when and if I get a
regular 5" chuck for this lathe.

* * * * Yes. *What size chuck comes with the lathe? *I would not expect
much larger than 3-1/2". *On my 12" swing Clausing, I use a 6-1/4" Bison
3-jaw chuck, but a 10" Burnard Pratt 4-jaw one. *(Or sometimes, such as
tonight, a Sherline 3-1/2" or so 4-jaw on a 5C collet spindle. *When I
don't need the size, it is a lot lighter to install.

3" is the size of the chuck that came with my 7" x 14" lathe.(I wanted
to turn 4-1/2" plates,which is why I settled on getting the 5" four
jaw chuck, which I'd also use with the 6" rotary table I'm about to
get for my mini mill/drill.



Speaking of collet chucks. I can't seem to find much info on the one I
have shown at the top of this page:

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

* * * * [ ... ]

I added three clearer pics of it taken apart:
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I can see some sort of taper inside the opening at the non-threaded
end of the black part that starts at about 1-7/16" in diameter. It
tapers down for about a 1/2" before the I.D. straightens out the rest
of the way at about 1-1/4" diameter).

* * * * O.K. *So it works the way I expected.

Also,a s you can see there are eight threaded holes that are about
7/16" deep, on the outside circumference of the black part.

* * * * For threading a bar into to closing the collet by unscrewing the
black part a bit.

Ok. So the larger bar in the pic is what I'm supposed to thread in
order to use it.

* * * * Yes.

* * * * The pin in the bore of the silver part is to engage the key in
the collet to prevent it from rotating as you attempt to close or open
the collet with the black ring.

The I.D. of the small ring is threaded. (The two bars don't seem to
serve a purpose).

* * * * The small ring should thread onto the back of a collet. *You say
that you have a set, so try it.

Ok, I'll have to dig those out of storage.

* * * * The larger bar probably threads into the black part to apply
force to it to close or open the collet while it is gripped in the chuck
of a larger lathe.

* * * * The smaller bar I suspect is for turning the small threaded ring
to capture or release the collet when you need to change collets.

You lost me there. There is nothing apparent about how the small bar
might work with the other parts.

* * * * Look at the small ring. *It threads onto the back of the collet
to hold it in the body. *There needs to be some way to turn the ring
when threading it onto the back of the collet. *Often, the ring will
either have a split screwdriver slot (continues on either side of the
large hole in the center), or a hole or two for a pin spanner wrench.
In this case, my *guess* (since you gave no photos close enough to the
ring and the bars to give any details) is that there is a hole in the
face of the ring.

The ring only has threads at the I.D. and is knurled on the O.D. There
are no slot, holes, etc. on the ring. It was definitely meant to be
turned by hand.

* * * * To assemble the collet, you first screw the black piece fully
into the the white one, slide the collet in through the black, aligning
the key with the pin in the white part. *then turn it over and drop the
small ring into the recess on the back, stick the small bar into one
hole to turn the ring around the end of the collet to screw it on and
retain the collet in the chuck. *To close or open the collet, you turn
the black part with the bar, and then *carefully* remember to unscrew
the bar before you turn on the spindle motor. :-)

Or, as you would put it, things would get pretty exciting. :-)

* * * * [ ... ]

Anyway -- I don't see what you have illustrated as being any use in a
lathe which qualifies as "mini". :-)

I'll keep it for light duty stuff, since the work would be pretty far
away from the spindle.

* * * * I really think that it would not work well in a lathe as small
as yours. *Keep it for when you get a larger lathe, or find someone to
sell it to.

Ok. :-(

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * But the collet blocks and the collets can be used with the mill
and a vise to cut square or hex ends on workpieces.

That's the plan. I just have to figure out what to do with tolls like
the MT3 endmill holders.

* * * * Why do you have them, if they do not fit your mill?

Before I picked up the mini mill/drill my intend was to get the lathes
milling attachment. (The lathe's spindle is MT3).



http://www.harborfreight.com/two-spe...ill-drill-mach...

* * * * You will need a set of R8 collets, or some R8 shanked end mill
holders however. **Don't* try to hold an end mill in the drill chuck.
It is poorly designed for that task.

Yes. that JT33 drill chuck came with the mill/drill.(So now I have
two).

* * * * :-)

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

For informational purposes, here is another option.

http://www.statecollegecentral.com/m...the/MLA21.html

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.