"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox
called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has a very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a felt lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The other is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface that
allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that clamps aren't
needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for qualifying and certifying
instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and 4", so Stu's are something pretty
special. I've seen them that big, though, in Mitutoyo's qualification lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to set up a
stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable, transferable accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now about 30 or
40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that were used in
production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so on.

--
Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
m...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox
called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has a very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a felt
lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The other is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface that
allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that clamps aren't
needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for qualifying and certifying
instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and 4", so Stu's are something pretty
special. I've seen them that big, though, in Mitutoyo's qualification
lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to set up a
stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable, transferable accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now about 30
or 40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that were used in
production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so on.

--
Ed Huntress

Thanks Ed (and others)
There are some light scratches in the small one, just behind the person it
the photo. I didn't do a very good job cleaning the block as I wasn't sure
what to use. I'm yet to clean the large one, I'll try to get onto it this
evening, but what to use? I'm guessing "kero and a rag" aren't the done
thing.

I believe you are right about the "production manufacturing ", they have a
name plate from a wire company where I am guessing they were used, but they
have no other name on them.

I'm try and get some more info on here tonight.
thanks again

Stu

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
om...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox
called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has a
very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a felt
lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The other is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface that
allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that clamps aren't
needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for qualifying and certifying
instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and 4", so Stu's are something pretty
special. I've seen them that big, though, in Mitutoyo's qualification
lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to set up a
stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable, transferable accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now about 30
or 40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that were used in
production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so on.

--
Ed Huntress

Thanks Ed (and others)
There are some light scratches in the small one, just behind the person it
the photo. I didn't do a very good job cleaning the block as I wasn't sure
what to use. I'm yet to clean the large one, I'll try to get onto it this
evening, but what to use? I'm guessing "kero and a rag" aren't the done
thing.

Kero and a rag isn't bad at all. Don't use anything the least bit abrasive
or corrosive to steel. No Windex. Then lightly oil it with a rag and put it
away. Wipe the oil off before using. If you're going to try wringing gage
blocks against them, clean with a solvent on the working surface, really
well, first. Paint thinner should do it.


I believe you are right about the "production manufacturing ", they have a
name plate from a wire company where I am guessing they were used, but
they have no other name on them.

I'm try and get some more info on here tonight.
thanks again

Stu

You're welcome, Stu. They're interesting tools and they don't take up much
room. With scratches, you probably won't get much for them, so you'd might
as well keep them.

Do you have a set of gage blocks?

--
Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
news:cu3np5la85p48d0vchp58tos9do4fun5me@4ax. com...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox
called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has a
very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a felt
lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The other
is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface that
allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that clamps aren't
needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for qualifying and certifying
instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and 4", so Stu's are something
pretty special. I've seen them that big, though, in Mitutoyo's
qualification lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to set up
a stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable, transferable accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now about 30
or 40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that were used in
production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so on.

--
Ed Huntress

Thanks Ed (and others)
There are some light scratches in the small one, just behind the person
it the photo. I didn't do a very good job cleaning the block as I wasn't
sure what to use. I'm yet to clean the large one, I'll try to get onto it
this evening, but what to use? I'm guessing "kero and a rag" aren't the
done thing.

Kero and a rag isn't bad at all. Don't use anything the least bit abrasive
or corrosive to steel. No Windex. Then lightly oil it with a rag and put
it away. Wipe the oil off before using. If you're going to try wringing
gage blocks against them, clean with a solvent on the working surface,
really well, first. Paint thinner should do it.


I believe you are right about the "production manufacturing ", they have
a name plate from a wire company where I am guessing they were used, but
they have no other name on them.

I'm try and get some more info on here tonight.
thanks again

Stu

You're welcome, Stu. They're interesting tools and they don't take up much
room. With scratches, you probably won't get much for them, so you'd might
as well keep them.

Do you have a set of gage blocks?

--
Ed Huntress
I've uploaded a couple of pictures of the large plate after a quick clean
wipe of kero.
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelarge.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelargeb.jpg
as you can see the isnt as good as the small one. I would think that it is
still plenty good enough for me. It will be nice to have something "flat" in
the shed, even if it is a little over the top.

I dont have gauge blocks yet although I am keeping an eye out for some, I
cant really think of an excuse to buy a new set.

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
u...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
news:cu3np5la85p48d0vchp58tos9do4fun5me@4ax .com...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox
called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has a
very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a felt
lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The other
is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface
that allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that clamps
aren't needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for qualifying and
certifying instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and 4", so Stu's are
something pretty special. I've seen them that big, though, in
Mitutoyo's qualification lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to set up
a stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable, transferable accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now about
30 or 40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that were used
in production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so on.

--
Ed Huntress

Thanks Ed (and others)
There are some light scratches in the small one, just behind the person
it the photo. I didn't do a very good job cleaning the block as I wasn't
sure what to use. I'm yet to clean the large one, I'll try to get onto
it this evening, but what to use? I'm guessing "kero and a rag" aren't
the done thing.

Kero and a rag isn't bad at all. Don't use anything the least bit
abrasive or corrosive to steel. No Windex. Then lightly oil it with a rag
and put it away. Wipe the oil off before using. If you're going to try
wringing gage blocks against them, clean with a solvent on the working
surface, really well, first. Paint thinner should do it.


I believe you are right about the "production manufacturing ", they have
a name plate from a wire company where I am guessing they were used, but
they have no other name on them.

I'm try and get some more info on here tonight.
thanks again

Stu

You're welcome, Stu. They're interesting tools and they don't take up
much room. With scratches, you probably won't get much for them, so you'd
might as well keep them.

Do you have a set of gage blocks?

--
Ed Huntress
I've uploaded a couple of pictures of the large plate after a quick clean
wipe of kero.
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelarge.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelargeb.jpg
as you can see the isnt as good as the small one. I would think that it is
still plenty good enough for me. It will be nice to have something "flat"
in the shed, even if it is a little over the top.

I dont have gauge blocks yet although I am keeping an eye out for some, I
cant really think of an excuse to buy a new set.

You may or may not have a need for them, depending upon the kind of work you
do. I don't think most hobbyists need a full set of gage blocks, but I do
find use for a few very good ones, to check my mikes, calipers, and height
gage.

But those plates you have are not something any of us would really need,
either. They're nice to have. You can get some use out of them, but it's
unlikely you'll be qualifying gages or making production gages. g

--
Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
u...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
news:cu3np5la85p48d0vchp58tos9do4fun5me@4a x.com...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox
called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has a
very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a felt
lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate
is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The other
is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface
that allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that clamps
aren't needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for qualifying and
certifying instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and 4", so Stu's are
something pretty special. I've seen them that big, though, in
Mitutoyo's qualification lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to set
up a stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable, transferable
accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now about
30 or 40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that were used
in production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so on.

--
Ed Huntress

Thanks Ed (and others)
There are some light scratches in the small one, just behind the person
it the photo. I didn't do a very good job cleaning the block as I
wasn't sure what to use. I'm yet to clean the large one, I'll try to
get onto it this evening, but what to use? I'm guessing "kero and a
rag" aren't the done thing.

Kero and a rag isn't bad at all. Don't use anything the least bit
abrasive or corrosive to steel. No Windex. Then lightly oil it with a
rag and put it away. Wipe the oil off before using. If you're going to
try wringing gage blocks against them, clean with a solvent on the
working surface, really well, first. Paint thinner should do it.


I believe you are right about the "production manufacturing ", they
have a name plate from a wire company where I am guessing they were
used, but they have no other name on them.

I'm try and get some more info on here tonight.
thanks again

Stu

You're welcome, Stu. They're interesting tools and they don't take up
much room. With scratches, you probably won't get much for them, so
you'd might as well keep them.

Do you have a set of gage blocks?

--
Ed Huntress
I've uploaded a couple of pictures of the large plate after a quick clean
wipe of kero.
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelarge.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelargeb.jpg
as you can see the isnt as good as the small one. I would think that it
is still plenty good enough for me. It will be nice to have something
"flat" in the shed, even if it is a little over the top.

I dont have gauge blocks yet although I am keeping an eye out for some, I
cant really think of an excuse to buy a new set.

You may or may not have a need for them, depending upon the kind of work
you do. I don't think most hobbyists need a full set of gage blocks, but I
do find use for a few very good ones, to check my mikes, calipers, and
height gage.

But those plates you have are not something any of us would really need,
either. They're nice to have. You can get some use out of them, but it's
unlikely you'll be qualifying gages or making production gages. g

--
Ed Huntress

A flat like this can also be used to set the zero of lapping fixtures like
these: http://southbaytech.com/shop/mlp1.shtml . It can also be used for
things like setting the zero of a flatness gauge used to qualify lapping
plates and surface plates:
http://www.southbaytech.com/appnotes...ring%20Kit.PDF
although the spherical contacts might scratch a metal flat.

"anorton" wrote in message
m...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
u...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
news:cu3np5la85p48d0vchp58tos9do4fun5me@4 ax.com...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox
called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has a
very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a felt
lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate
is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The
other is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface
that allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that clamps
aren't needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for qualifying and
certifying instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and 4", so Stu's are
something pretty special. I've seen them that big, though, in
Mitutoyo's qualification lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to set
up a stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable, transferable
accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now about
30 or 40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that were
used in production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so on.

--
Ed Huntress

Thanks Ed (and others)
There are some light scratches in the small one, just behind the
person it the photo. I didn't do a very good job cleaning the block as
I wasn't sure what to use. I'm yet to clean the large one, I'll try to
get onto it this evening, but what to use? I'm guessing "kero and a
rag" aren't the done thing.

Kero and a rag isn't bad at all. Don't use anything the least bit
abrasive or corrosive to steel. No Windex. Then lightly oil it with a
rag and put it away. Wipe the oil off before using. If you're going to
try wringing gage blocks against them, clean with a solvent on the
working surface, really well, first. Paint thinner should do it.


I believe you are right about the "production manufacturing ", they
have a name plate from a wire company where I am guessing they were
used, but they have no other name on them.

I'm try and get some more info on here tonight.
thanks again

Stu

You're welcome, Stu. They're interesting tools and they don't take up
much room. With scratches, you probably won't get much for them, so
you'd might as well keep them.

Do you have a set of gage blocks?

--
Ed Huntress
I've uploaded a couple of pictures of the large plate after a quick
clean wipe of kero.
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelarge.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelargeb.jpg
as you can see the isnt as good as the small one. I would think that it
is still plenty good enough for me. It will be nice to have something
"flat" in the shed, even if it is a little over the top.

I dont have gauge blocks yet although I am keeping an eye out for some,
I cant really think of an excuse to buy a new set.

You may or may not have a need for them, depending upon the kind of work
you do. I don't think most hobbyists need a full set of gage blocks, but
I do find use for a few very good ones, to check my mikes, calipers, and
height gage.

But those plates you have are not something any of us would really need,
either. They're nice to have. You can get some use out of them, but it's
unlikely you'll be qualifying gages or making production gages. g

--
Ed Huntress

A flat like this can also be used to set the zero of lapping fixtures like
these: http://southbaytech.com/shop/mlp1.shtml . It can also be used for
things like setting the zero of a flatness gauge used to qualify lapping
plates and surface plates:
http://www.southbaytech.com/appnotes...ring%20Kit.PDF
although the spherical contacts might scratch a metal flat.

Interesting stuff. Precision lapping is quite an art. We used to have a
member here who had quite a bit of experience with it, years ago.

--
Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"anorton" wrote in message
m...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
u...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
news:cu3np5la85p48d0vchp58tos9do4fun5me@ 4ax.com...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has
a very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a
felt lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate
is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The
other is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface
that allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that clamps
aren't needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for qualifying and
certifying instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and 4", so Stu's are
something pretty special. I've seen them that big, though, in
Mitutoyo's qualification lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to set
up a stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable, transferable
accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now
about 30 or 40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that
were used in production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so
on.

--
Ed Huntress

Thanks Ed (and others)
There are some light scratches in the small one, just behind the
person it the photo. I didn't do a very good job cleaning the block
as I wasn't sure what to use. I'm yet to clean the large one, I'll
try to get onto it this evening, but what to use? I'm guessing "kero
and a rag" aren't the done thing.

Kero and a rag isn't bad at all. Don't use anything the least bit
abrasive or corrosive to steel. No Windex. Then lightly oil it with a
rag and put it away. Wipe the oil off before using. If you're going to
try wringing gage blocks against them, clean with a solvent on the
working surface, really well, first. Paint thinner should do it.


I believe you are right about the "production manufacturing ", they
have a name plate from a wire company where I am guessing they were
used, but they have no other name on them.

I'm try and get some more info on here tonight.
thanks again

Stu

You're welcome, Stu. They're interesting tools and they don't take up
much room. With scratches, you probably won't get much for them, so
you'd might as well keep them.

Do you have a set of gage blocks?

--
Ed Huntress
I've uploaded a couple of pictures of the large plate after a quick
clean wipe of kero.
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelarge.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelargeb.jpg
as you can see the isnt as good as the small one. I would think that it
is still plenty good enough for me. It will be nice to have something
"flat" in the shed, even if it is a little over the top.

I dont have gauge blocks yet although I am keeping an eye out for some,
I cant really think of an excuse to buy a new set.

You may or may not have a need for them, depending upon the kind of work
you do. I don't think most hobbyists need a full set of gage blocks, but
I do find use for a few very good ones, to check my mikes, calipers, and
height gage.

But those plates you have are not something any of us would really need,
either. They're nice to have. You can get some use out of them, but it's
unlikely you'll be qualifying gages or making production gages. g

--
Ed Huntress

A flat like this can also be used to set the zero of lapping fixtures
like these: http://southbaytech.com/shop/mlp1.shtml . It can also be
used for things like setting the zero of a flatness gauge used to qualify
lapping plates and surface plates:
http://www.southbaytech.com/appnotes...ring%20Kit.PDF
although the spherical contacts might scratch a metal flat.

Interesting stuff. Precision lapping is quite an art. We used to have a
member here who had quite a bit of experience with it, years ago.

--
Ed Huntress

I am hardly an expert, but I do have a Lapmaster-12 machine in my garage.
Optical engineering is my profession and I want to convert it to polish
glass.

"anorton" wrote in message
m...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"anorton" wrote in message
m...

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...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
u...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

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...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
news:cu3np5la85p48d0vchp58tos9do4fun5me @4ax.com...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has
a very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a
felt lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate
is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The
other is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface
that allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that
clamps aren't needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for
qualifying and certifying instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and
4", so Stu's are something pretty special. I've seen them that
big, though, in Mitutoyo's qualification lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to
set up a stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable,
transferable accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now
about 30 or 40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that
were used in production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so
on.

--
Ed Huntress

Thanks Ed (and others)
There are some light scratches in the small one, just behind the
person it the photo. I didn't do a very good job cleaning the block
as I wasn't sure what to use. I'm yet to clean the large one, I'll
try to get onto it this evening, but what to use? I'm guessing "kero
and a rag" aren't the done thing.

Kero and a rag isn't bad at all. Don't use anything the least bit
abrasive or corrosive to steel. No Windex. Then lightly oil it with a
rag and put it away. Wipe the oil off before using. If you're going
to try wringing gage blocks against them, clean with a solvent on the
working surface, really well, first. Paint thinner should do it.


I believe you are right about the "production manufacturing ", they
have a name plate from a wire company where I am guessing they were
used, but they have no other name on them.

I'm try and get some more info on here tonight.
thanks again

Stu

You're welcome, Stu. They're interesting tools and they don't take up
much room. With scratches, you probably won't get much for them, so
you'd might as well keep them.

Do you have a set of gage blocks?

--
Ed Huntress
I've uploaded a couple of pictures of the large plate after a quick
clean wipe of kero.
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelarge.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelargeb.jpg
as you can see the isnt as good as the small one. I would think that
it is still plenty good enough for me. It will be nice to have
something "flat" in the shed, even if it is a little over the top.

I dont have gauge blocks yet although I am keeping an eye out for
some, I cant really think of an excuse to buy a new set.

You may or may not have a need for them, depending upon the kind of
work you do. I don't think most hobbyists need a full set of gage
blocks, but I do find use for a few very good ones, to check my mikes,
calipers, and height gage.

But those plates you have are not something any of us would really
need, either. They're nice to have. You can get some use out of them,
but it's unlikely you'll be qualifying gages or making production
gages. g

--
Ed Huntress

A flat like this can also be used to set the zero of lapping fixtures
like these: http://southbaytech.com/shop/mlp1.shtml . It can also be
used for things like setting the zero of a flatness gauge used to
qualify lapping plates and surface plates:
http://www.southbaytech.com/appnotes...ring%20Kit.PDF
although the spherical contacts might scratch a metal flat.

Interesting stuff. Precision lapping is quite an art. We used to have a
member here who had quite a bit of experience with it, years ago.

--
Ed Huntress

I am hardly an expert, but I do have a Lapmaster-12 machine in my garage.
Optical engineering is my profession and I want to convert it to polish
glass.

Now, there's a machine that you won't find in many hobby shops. g For some
reason, I've always found lapping to be interesting.

I remember reading the account of Johannson sp? making his first set of
gage blocks, and some years later, Dick Moore making his first set on his
kitchen table, lapping them by hand.

--
Ed Huntress

In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"anorton" wrote in message
m...

[snip]

I am hardly an expert, but I do have a Lapmaster-12 machine in my garage.
Optical engineering is my profession and I want to convert it to polish
glass.

Now, there's a machine that you won't find in many hobby shops. g For some
reason, I've always found lapping to be interesting.

I remember reading the account of Johannson sp? making his first set of
gage blocks, and some years later, Dick Moore making his first set on his
kitchen table, lapping them by hand.

These accounts would be interesting. Do you recall where you saw them?

Johannson's patent is from 1907 or so.

For a nice description of how such things were done 100 years ago, see ³Accurate
Tool Work², Goodrich and Stanley, First Edition, Eighth Impression, McGraw-Hill
1912, 217 pages. The last two chapters are on the then recently invented
Johansson Blocks, with microinch precision
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_block.

Joe Gwinn

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
u...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
news:cu3np5la85p48d0vchp58tos9do4fun5me@4a x.com...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox
called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has a
very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a felt
lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate
is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The other
is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface
that allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that clamps
aren't needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for qualifying and
certifying instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and 4", so Stu's are
something pretty special. I've seen them that big, though, in
Mitutoyo's qualification lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to set
up a stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable, transferable
accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now about
30 or 40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that were used
in production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so on.

--
Ed Huntress

Thanks Ed (and others)
There are some light scratches in the small one, just behind the person
it the photo. I didn't do a very good job cleaning the block as I
wasn't sure what to use. I'm yet to clean the large one, I'll try to
get onto it this evening, but what to use? I'm guessing "kero and a
rag" aren't the done thing.

Kero and a rag isn't bad at all. Don't use anything the least bit
abrasive or corrosive to steel. No Windex. Then lightly oil it with a
rag and put it away. Wipe the oil off before using. If you're going to
try wringing gage blocks against them, clean with a solvent on the
working surface, really well, first. Paint thinner should do it.


I believe you are right about the "production manufacturing ", they
have a name plate from a wire company where I am guessing they were
used, but they have no other name on them.

I'm try and get some more info on here tonight.
thanks again

Stu

You're welcome, Stu. They're interesting tools and they don't take up
much room. With scratches, you probably won't get much for them, so
you'd might as well keep them.

Do you have a set of gage blocks?

--
Ed Huntress
I've uploaded a couple of pictures of the large plate after a quick clean
wipe of kero.
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelarge.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelargeb.jpg
as you can see the isnt as good as the small one. I would think that it
is still plenty good enough for me. It will be nice to have something
"flat" in the shed, even if it is a little over the top.

I dont have gauge blocks yet although I am keeping an eye out for some, I
cant really think of an excuse to buy a new set.

You may or may not have a need for them, depending upon the kind of work
you do. I don't think most hobbyists need a full set of gage blocks, but I
do find use for a few very good ones, to check my mikes, calipers, and
height gage.

But those plates you have are not something any of us would really need,
either. They're nice to have. You can get some use out of them, but it's
unlikely you'll be qualifying gages or making production gages. g

--
Ed Huntress

Very interesting info guys. I was thinking about spotting them with bearing
blue to see how close to each other they are. There wouldn't be a problem
with that would there?

As far as needing gauge blocks goes. All of my work so far(very limited and
not in the same league accuracy wise) is what I call "comparison measuring",
so my mic's could be calibrated in westernwigets for all it matters. As long
as they are consistent.

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
u...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
news:cu3np5la85p48d0vchp58tos9do4fun5me@4 ax.com...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox
called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has a
very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a felt
lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate
is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The
other is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface
that allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that clamps
aren't needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for qualifying and
certifying instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and 4", so Stu's are
something pretty special. I've seen them that big, though, in
Mitutoyo's qualification lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to set
up a stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable, transferable
accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now about
30 or 40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that were
used in production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so on.

--
Ed Huntress

Thanks Ed (and others)
There are some light scratches in the small one, just behind the
person it the photo. I didn't do a very good job cleaning the block as
I wasn't sure what to use. I'm yet to clean the large one, I'll try to
get onto it this evening, but what to use? I'm guessing "kero and a
rag" aren't the done thing.

Kero and a rag isn't bad at all. Don't use anything the least bit
abrasive or corrosive to steel. No Windex. Then lightly oil it with a
rag and put it away. Wipe the oil off before using. If you're going to
try wringing gage blocks against them, clean with a solvent on the
working surface, really well, first. Paint thinner should do it.


I believe you are right about the "production manufacturing ", they
have a name plate from a wire company where I am guessing they were
used, but they have no other name on them.

I'm try and get some more info on here tonight.
thanks again

Stu

You're welcome, Stu. They're interesting tools and they don't take up
much room. With scratches, you probably won't get much for them, so
you'd might as well keep them.

Do you have a set of gage blocks?

--
Ed Huntress
I've uploaded a couple of pictures of the large plate after a quick
clean wipe of kero.
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelarge.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelargeb.jpg
as you can see the isnt as good as the small one. I would think that it
is still plenty good enough for me. It will be nice to have something
"flat" in the shed, even if it is a little over the top.

I dont have gauge blocks yet although I am keeping an eye out for some,
I cant really think of an excuse to buy a new set.

You may or may not have a need for them, depending upon the kind of work
you do. I don't think most hobbyists need a full set of gage blocks, but
I do find use for a few very good ones, to check my mikes, calipers, and
height gage.

But those plates you have are not something any of us would really need,
either. They're nice to have. You can get some use out of them, but it's
unlikely you'll be qualifying gages or making production gages. g

--
Ed Huntress

Very interesting info guys. I was thinking about spotting them with
bearing blue to see how close to each other they are. There wouldn't be a
problem with that would there?

As far as needing gauge blocks goes. All of my work so far(very limited
and not in the same league accuracy wise) is what I call "comparison
measuring", so my mic's could be calibrated in westernwigets for all it
matters. As long as they are consistent.


I would not try that. You want to minimize sliding of anything on top of
these to prevent scratches. Besides, it will not tell you much. These plates
should be flat to better than 300 nanometers which is probably a little
thinner than the dye layer. You really need optical methods to test them. If
you are interested, google "making optical flats", some of those pages
outline test methods an amateur can do.

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
u...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
news:cu3np5la85p48d0vchp58tos9do4fun5me@4 ax.com...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox
called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has a
very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a felt
lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate
is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The
other is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface
that allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that clamps
aren't needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for qualifying and
certifying instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and 4", so Stu's are
something pretty special. I've seen them that big, though, in
Mitutoyo's qualification lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to set
up a stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable, transferable
accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now about
30 or 40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that were
used in production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so on.

--
Ed Huntress

Thanks Ed (and others)
There are some light scratches in the small one, just behind the
person it the photo. I didn't do a very good job cleaning the block as
I wasn't sure what to use. I'm yet to clean the large one, I'll try to
get onto it this evening, but what to use? I'm guessing "kero and a
rag" aren't the done thing.

Kero and a rag isn't bad at all. Don't use anything the least bit
abrasive or corrosive to steel. No Windex. Then lightly oil it with a
rag and put it away. Wipe the oil off before using. If you're going to
try wringing gage blocks against them, clean with a solvent on the
working surface, really well, first. Paint thinner should do it.


I believe you are right about the "production manufacturing ", they
have a name plate from a wire company where I am guessing they were
used, but they have no other name on them.

I'm try and get some more info on here tonight.
thanks again

Stu

You're welcome, Stu. They're interesting tools and they don't take up
much room. With scratches, you probably won't get much for them, so
you'd might as well keep them.

Do you have a set of gage blocks?

--
Ed Huntress
I've uploaded a couple of pictures of the large plate after a quick
clean wipe of kero.
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelarge.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelargeb.jpg
as you can see the isnt as good as the small one. I would think that it
is still plenty good enough for me. It will be nice to have something
"flat" in the shed, even if it is a little over the top.

I dont have gauge blocks yet although I am keeping an eye out for some,
I cant really think of an excuse to buy a new set.

You may or may not have a need for them, depending upon the kind of work
you do. I don't think most hobbyists need a full set of gage blocks, but
I do find use for a few very good ones, to check my mikes, calipers, and
height gage.

But those plates you have are not something any of us would really need,
either. They're nice to have. You can get some use out of them, but it's
unlikely you'll be qualifying gages or making production gages. g

--
Ed Huntress

Very interesting info guys. I was thinking about spotting them with
bearing blue to see how close to each other they are. There wouldn't be a
problem with that would there?

Try it. If you can't get a good read, use jeweler's rouge. That's what's
used for checking iron surface plates that have been scraped; it may or may
not work better than blue on lapped surfaces.

It's difficult to spread an even coating of rouge. If you have some in a
stick, for use with a buffing wheel, take a rag, wet it with paint thinner,
and rub it good on the rouge. Then, while the rag is still wet, try wiping
an even but thin coating on one of the plates.

This is easier said than done, but it works well with finely-scraped
surfaces.


As far as needing gauge blocks goes. All of my work so far(very limited
and not in the same league accuracy wise) is what I call "comparison
measuring", so my mic's could be calibrated in westernwigets for all it
matters. As long as they are consistent.

That's the way it is with most hobby work. For lathe work, I just use spring
calipers most of the time.

--
Ed Huntress

"anorton" wrote in message
m...

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...

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...

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u...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"stu" no where just yet wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message news:...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:55:03 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:


wrote in message
news:cu3np5la85p48d0vchp58tos9do4fun5me@ 4ax.com...
On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:55:17 +1100, "stu" no where just yet
wrote:

I've just posted a picture in
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox called
"stusplate"(is it the done thing to put a direct link here?)
As you can see from the reflection of newpaper, the surface has
a very
fine
finish like no surface plate I have ever seen. It comes in a
felt lined
lockable box. Does anyone have any idea what this sort of plate
is?

Could be an optical flat. Your jpg doesn't show the size.
Inspection grade optical flats are typically 5 or 6" dia and
polished flat to within a fraction of the wavelength of green
light.

Jim
So that would be pretty flat then lol
I have two, one is 170mm(7inches) x 35mm(1.5inches) thick. The
other is
220mm(9inches) x 35mm(1.5inches)they are labeled "precison plate"
I thought about optical flats but I thought they were made from
glass?(although I'm not even sure I've ever seen an optical flat)

Most optical flats are glass or quartz. I have a 6"dia x 1/2"
glass flat. Although your flats are opaque, bearing in mind the
polish, the thickness and the careful packaging, I still think
they are likely to be flat to optical precision standard

Jim.

Stu has a couple of toolmaker's flats. They're made with a surface
that allows a gage block to be wrung to the surface, so that clamps
aren't needed. It's frequently used in gage labs for qualifying and
certifying instruments. Standard sizes are 2" and 4", so Stu's are
something pretty special. I've seen them that big, though, in
Mitutoyo's qualification lab.

If you keep that surface scratch-free, there's no better way to set
up a stack of gage blocks to extreme, certifiable, transferable
accuracy.

--
Ed Huntress

BTW, I should mention that their original purpose, which is now
about 30 or 40 years out of date, was to qualify custom gages that
were used in production manufacturing -- go/no-go snap gages and so
on.

--
Ed Huntress

Thanks Ed (and others)
There are some light scratches in the small one, just behind the
person it the photo. I didn't do a very good job cleaning the block
as I wasn't sure what to use. I'm yet to clean the large one, I'll
try to get onto it this evening, but what to use? I'm guessing "kero
and a rag" aren't the done thing.

Kero and a rag isn't bad at all. Don't use anything the least bit
abrasive or corrosive to steel. No Windex. Then lightly oil it with a
rag and put it away. Wipe the oil off before using. If you're going to
try wringing gage blocks against them, clean with a solvent on the
working surface, really well, first. Paint thinner should do it.


I believe you are right about the "production manufacturing ", they
have a name plate from a wire company where I am guessing they were
used, but they have no other name on them.

I'm try and get some more info on here tonight.
thanks again

Stu

You're welcome, Stu. They're interesting tools and they don't take up
much room. With scratches, you probably won't get much for them, so
you'd might as well keep them.

Do you have a set of gage blocks?

--
Ed Huntress
I've uploaded a couple of pictures of the large plate after a quick
clean wipe of kero.
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelarge.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/stusplatelargeb.jpg
as you can see the isnt as good as the small one. I would think that it
is still plenty good enough for me. It will be nice to have something
"flat" in the shed, even if it is a little over the top.

I dont have gauge blocks yet although I am keeping an eye out for some,
I cant really think of an excuse to buy a new set.

You may or may not have a need for them, depending upon the kind of work
you do. I don't think most hobbyists need a full set of gage blocks, but
I do find use for a few very good ones, to check my mikes, calipers, and
height gage.

But those plates you have are not something any of us would really need,
either. They're nice to have. You can get some use out of them, but it's
unlikely you'll be qualifying gages or making production gages. g

--
Ed Huntress

Very interesting info guys. I was thinking about spotting them with
bearing blue to see how close to each other they are. There wouldn't be a
problem with that would there?

As far as needing gauge blocks goes. All of my work so far(very limited
and not in the same league accuracy wise) is what I call "comparison
measuring", so my mic's could be calibrated in westernwigets for all it
matters. As long as they are consistent.


I would not try that. You want to minimize sliding of anything on top of
these to prevent scratches. Besides, it will not tell you much. These
plates should be flat to better than 300 nanometers which is probably a
little thinner than the dye layer. You really need optical methods to test
them. If you are interested, google "making optical flats", some of those
pages outline test methods an amateur can do.

That's true. My suggestion of using rouge is probably of no use on such flat
surfaces.

--
Ed Huntress

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"anorton" wrote in message
m...

[snip]

I am hardly an expert, but I do have a Lapmaster-12 machine in my
garage.
Optical engineering is my profession and I want to convert it to polish
glass.

Now, there's a machine that you won't find in many hobby shops. g For
some
reason, I've always found lapping to be interesting.

I remember reading the account of Johannson sp? making his first set of
gage blocks, and some years later, Dick Moore making his first set on his
kitchen table, lapping them by hand.

These accounts would be interesting. Do you recall where you saw them?

The account of Johannson was in a book I borrowed from Mitutoyo's
collection. It was a rare book -- I don't recall the title.

About Dick Moore, we had all of his books at _American Machinist_, so I
don't recall that one, either. I think it was either one of his first, about
jig borers, or the late one by his son Wayne, titled _The Foundations of
Mechanical Accuracy_.


Johannson's patent is from 1907 or so.

For a nice description of how such things were done 100 years ago, see
³Accurate
Tool Work², Goodrich and Stanley, First Edition, Eighth Impression,
McGraw-Hill
1912, 217 pages. The last two chapters are on the then recently invented
Johansson Blocks, with microinch precision
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_block.

Joe Gwinn

In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"anorton" wrote in message
m...

[snip]

I am hardly an expert, but I do have a Lapmaster-12 machine in my
garage.
Optical engineering is my profession and I want to convert it to polish
glass.

Now, there's a machine that you won't find in many hobby shops. g For
some
reason, I've always found lapping to be interesting.

I remember reading the account of Johannson sp? making his first set of
gage blocks, and some years later, Dick Moore making his first set on his
kitchen table, lapping them by hand.

These accounts would be interesting. Do you recall where you saw them?

The account of Johannson was in a book I borrowed from Mitutoyo's
collection. It was a rare book -- I don't recall the title.

Look at the bibliography of the Wiki entry mentioned below: does it ring any
bells?


About Dick Moore, we had all of his books at _American Machinist_, so I
don't recall that one, either. I think it was either one of his first, about
jig borers, or the late one by his son Wayne, titled _The Foundations of
Mechanical Accuracy_.

I think I have read this one. A coworker lent me a copy. It's still in print,
sold by Moore, but at an astonishing price.


Joe Gwinn


Johannson's patent is from 1907 or so.

For a nice description of how such things were done 100 years ago, see ³Accurate
Tool Work², Goodrich and Stanley, First Edition, Eighth Impression, McGraw-Hill
1912, 217 pages. The last two chapters are on the then recently invented
Johansson Blocks, with microinch precision
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_block.

Joe Gwinn

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"anorton" wrote in message
m...

[snip]

I am hardly an expert, but I do have a Lapmaster-12 machine in my
garage.
Optical engineering is my profession and I want to convert it to
polish
glass.

Now, there's a machine that you won't find in many hobby shops. g
For
some
reason, I've always found lapping to be interesting.

I remember reading the account of Johannson sp? making his first set
of
gage blocks, and some years later, Dick Moore making his first set on
his
kitchen table, lapping them by hand.

These accounts would be interesting. Do you recall where you saw them?

The account of Johannson was in a book I borrowed from Mitutoyo's
collection. It was a rare book -- I don't recall the title.

Look at the bibliography of the Wiki entry mentioned below: does it ring
any
bells?


About Dick Moore, we had all of his books at _American Machinist_, so I
don't recall that one, either. I think it was either one of his first,
about
jig borers, or the late one by his son Wayne, titled _The Foundations of
Mechanical Accuracy_.

I think I have read this one. A coworker lent me a copy. It's still in
print,
sold by Moore, but at an astonishing price.


Joe Gwinn


Johannson's patent is from 1907 or so.

For a nice description of how such things were done 100 years ago, see
³Accurate
Tool Work², Goodrich and Stanley, First Edition, Eighth Impression,
McGraw-Hill
1912, 217 pages. The last two chapters are on the then recently
invented
Johansson Blocks, with microinch precision
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_block.

Joe Gwinn

That book sounds familiar; I think I read it around 30 years ago. However,
that's not the book that had the Johannson story I'm talking about. That
book had a title that said something about the history of metrology. Sorry,
it's not coming back to me.

You're reminding me that I have to call McGraw-Hill in New York and find out
what happened to all of the old metalworking books they had in their
library. M-H sold _American Machinist_ to Penton Publishing sometime in the
'80s, but the books that had been accumulated in the corporate library via
AM may still be there. Probably not, though, because M-H no longer owns any
metalworking magazines.

I'll call and check.

--
Ed Huntress

In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"anorton" wrote in message
m...

[snip]

I am hardly an expert, but I do have a Lapmaster-12 machine in my
garage.
Optical engineering is my profession and I want to convert it to
polish
glass.

Now, there's a machine that you won't find in many hobby shops. g
For
some
reason, I've always found lapping to be interesting.

I remember reading the account of Johannson sp? making his first set
of
gage blocks, and some years later, Dick Moore making his first set on
his
kitchen table, lapping them by hand.

These accounts would be interesting. Do you recall where you saw them?

The account of Johannson was in a book I borrowed from Mitutoyo's
collection. It was a rare book -- I don't recall the title.

Look at the bibliography of the Wiki entry mentioned below: does it ring
any
bells?


About Dick Moore, we had all of his books at _American Machinist_, so I
don't recall that one, either. I think it was either one of his first,
about
jig borers, or the late one by his son Wayne, titled _The Foundations of
Mechanical Accuracy_.

I think I have read this one. A coworker lent me a copy. It's still in
print,
sold by Moore, but at an astonishing price.


Joe Gwinn


Johannson's patent is from 1907 or so.

For a nice description of how such things were done 100 years ago, see
³Accurate
Tool Work², Goodrich and Stanley, First Edition, Eighth Impression,
McGraw-Hill
1912, 217 pages. The last two chapters are on the then recently
invented
Johansson Blocks, with microinch precision
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_block.

Joe Gwinn

That book sounds familiar; I think I read it around 30 years ago. However,
that's not the book that had the Johannson story I'm talking about. That
book had a title that said something about the history of metrology. Sorry,
it's not coming back to me.

You're reminding me that I have to call McGraw-Hill in New York and find out
what happened to all of the old metalworking books they had in their
library. M-H sold _American Machinist_ to Penton Publishing sometime in the
'80s, but the books that had been accumulated in the corporate library via
AM may still be there. Probably not, though, because M-H no longer owns any
metalworking magazines.

I'll call and check.

Thanks,

Joe Gwinn