I just got a graco drum pump with an oil quart meter. Set the number of
quarts you want. Put it in the fill hole and pull the trigger. You're done.

I want to get a 55 gallon drum of oil for all my engines. the seven
tractors, fork lift, big truck, and lawn mowers can easily use a 10-40 rated
for diesel engine use. Now, my new pickup calls for a very light 5-20 oil.
My son says the V8 engine is still made the same way they've always done it
and a 10-40 will be fine.

Anyone know the story on these very light oil specs? Is this just done for
slightly better fuel mileage? My new pick 'em up truck cost damn near 30K
and I don't want to hurt it.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:

I just got a graco drum pump with an oil quart meter. Set the number of
quarts you want. Put it in the fill hole and pull the trigger. You're done.

I want to get a 55 gallon drum of oil for all my engines. the seven
tractors, fork lift, big truck, and lawn mowers can easily use a 10-40 rated
for diesel engine use. Now, my new pickup calls for a very light 5-20 oil.
My son says the V8 engine is still made the same way they've always done it
and a 10-40 will be fine.

Anyone know the story on these very light oil specs? Is this just done for
slightly better fuel mileage? My new pick 'em up truck cost damn near 30K
and I don't want to hurt it.

Karl

Mobil 1 5-40 diesel should work fine. I use Mobil 1 5-30 in everything
but my little diesel Kubota tractor.

Mobil 1 5-40 diesel should work fine. I use Mobil 1 5-30 in everything
but my little diesel Kubota tractor.

I'm sure that would work, but Mobile 1 costs way too much to put in my
tractors. There might be a good debate on whether synthetic is worth it on
high value engines but not on an old tractor.

Karl

Karl the clearances are much tighter on today's engine. Oil pressure is the
indicator of "potential" flow, but it's all about flow. If the viscosity is
too high, flow will be reduced, because when there is enough pressure to
lift the ball from the seat in the regulator, that will represent an easier
path and pump flow will be directed through the regulator and not the rest
of the engine. Use the viscosity the factory recommended. They built the
engine, not your son.
Steve

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
I just got a graco drum pump with an oil quart meter. Set the number of
quarts you want. Put it in the fill hole and pull the trigger. You're done.

I want to get a 55 gallon drum of oil for all my engines. the seven
tractors, fork lift, big truck, and lawn mowers can easily use a 10-40
rated for diesel engine use. Now, my new pickup calls for a very light
5-20 oil. My son says the V8 engine is still made the same way they've
always done it and a 10-40 will be fine.

Anyone know the story on these very light oil specs? Is this just done for
slightly better fuel mileage? My new pick 'em up truck cost damn near 30K
and I don't want to hurt it.

Karl

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
I just got a graco drum pump with an oil quart meter. Set the number of
quarts you want. Put it in the fill hole and pull the trigger. You're done.

I want to get a 55 gallon drum of oil for all my engines. the seven
tractors, fork lift, big truck, and lawn mowers can easily use a 10-40
rated for diesel engine use. Now, my new pickup calls for a very light
5-20 oil. My son says the V8 engine is still made the same way they've
always done it and a 10-40 will be fine.

Anyone know the story on these very light oil specs? Is this just done for
slightly better fuel mileage? My new pick 'em up truck cost damn near 30K
and I don't want to hurt it.

Karl


Is you son willing to foot the bill when you pickum up truck engine pukes
its guts 500 miles from home?
Very few late model engines can tolerate the 10/40 oils. The clearances are
too tight and 10/40 just doesn't flow enough. Listen to what the mfgr says,
they built it.

Steve Lusardi wrote:
Karl the clearances are much tighter on today's engine. Oil pressure is the
indicator of "potential" flow, but it's all about flow. If the viscosity is
too high, flow will be reduced, because when there is enough pressure to
lift the ball from the seat in the regulator, that will represent an easier
path and pump flow will be directed through the regulator and not the rest
of the engine. Use the viscosity the factory recommended. They built the
engine, not your son.

I agree with Steve. In the short term you'll probably get away with it.
In the longer term you might not. Not worth the risk in my view.

Best wishes,

Chris

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
I just got a graco drum pump with an oil quart meter. Set the number of
quarts you want. Put it in the fill hole and pull the trigger. You're done.

I want to get a 55 gallon drum of oil for all my engines. the seven
tractors, fork lift, big truck, and lawn mowers can easily use a 10-40
rated for diesel engine use. Now, my new pickup calls for a very light
5-20 oil. My son says the V8 engine is still made the same way they've
always done it and a 10-40 will be fine.

Anyone know the story on these very light oil specs? Is this just done for
slightly better fuel mileage? My new pick 'em up truck cost damn near 30K
and I don't want to hurt it.

Karl



I get a bad feeling about this.

"Karl Townsend" wrote: (clip) My new pick 'em up truck cost damn near 30K
and I don't want to hurt it.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
It sounds like you have settled the question for everything but your new
pickup. I agree with what others have said--don't risk a new engine worth
thousands to save a couple of bucks per oil change. It may be possible to
blend a light oil with the stuff from your drum, to produce the 5-20 you
need, but:
1.) How much would you save?
2.) Could you match both the 5 and the 20 operating points?
3.) How much research would this take?

Karl Townsend wrote:
I just got a graco drum pump with an oil quart meter. Set the number of
quarts you want. Put it in the fill hole and pull the trigger. You're done.

I want to get a 55 gallon drum of oil for all my engines. the seven
tractors, fork lift, big truck, and lawn mowers can easily use a 10-40 rated
for diesel engine use. Now, my new pickup calls for a very light 5-20 oil.
My son says the V8 engine is still made the same way they've always done it
and a 10-40 will be fine.

Anyone know the story on these very light oil specs? Is this just done for
slightly better fuel mileage? My new pick 'em up truck cost damn near 30K
and I don't want to hurt it.

Karl




Delo 400 15-40

On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 08:02:43 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:

I just got a graco drum pump with an oil quart meter. Set the number of
quarts you want. Put it in the fill hole and pull the trigger. You're done.

I want to get a 55 gallon drum of oil for all my engines. the seven
tractors, fork lift, big truck, and lawn mowers can easily use a 10-40 rated
for diesel engine use. Now, my new pickup calls for a very light 5-20 oil.
My son says the V8 engine is still made the same way they've always done it
and a 10-40 will be fine.

Anyone know the story on these very light oil specs? Is this just done for
slightly better fuel mileage? My new pick 'em up truck cost damn near 30K
and I don't want to hurt it.

It's for better fuel mileage because with the thinner oil they could
tighten up the clearances and improve efficiency. I'd use what they
say just to avoid the heartache - engines are not cheap.

Might want to go shopping for a second drum pump and dispensing
meter - One on 10W40 conventional for the implements, and one with
5W20 or 5W30 synthetic for the passenger cars and on-road vehicles.

For the passenger car oil you really don't have to run and spend a
lot of money on another pump /right now/ for occasional use - while
you wait to find a deal you can always go get a drum hand truck that
goes horizontal for dispensing ($250 - but you can use for other
things like {GASP!} moving drums), a drum faucet ($15), and one of
those calibrated 1-quart pitchers ($12 - $15) with a spout to go in
the fill port. (McMaster all.)

-- Bruce --

On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 16:06:24 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Karl the clearances are much tighter on today's engine. Oil pressure is the
indicator of "potential" flow, but it's all about flow. If the viscosity is
too high, flow will be reduced, because when there is enough pressure to
lift the ball from the seat in the regulator, that will represent an easier
path and pump flow will be directed through the regulator and not the rest
of the engine. Use the viscosity the factory recommended. They built the
engine, not your son.
Steve


Go check the bearing clearance specs on the new engine and compare to
an older engine of the same manufacture what spec'd the heavier oil.
Will you find a difference in oil clearances?
Betcha won't.

If you do publish them here.
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
tanews.com...
I just got a graco drum pump with an oil quart meter. Set the number of
quarts you want. Put it in the fill hole and pull the trigger. You're done.

I want to get a 55 gallon drum of oil for all my engines. the seven
tractors, fork lift, big truck, and lawn mowers can easily use a 10-40
rated for diesel engine use. Now, my new pickup calls for a very light
5-20 oil. My son says the V8 engine is still made the same way they've
always done it and a 10-40 will be fine.

Anyone know the story on these very light oil specs? Is this just done for
slightly better fuel mileage? My new pick 'em up truck cost damn near 30K
and I don't want to hurt it.

Karl




** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Karl Townsend wrote:

Mobil 1 5-40 diesel should work fine. I use Mobil 1 5-30 in everything
but my little diesel Kubota tractor.

I'm sure that would work, but Mobile 1 costs way too much to put in my
tractors. There might be a good debate on whether synthetic is worth it on
high value engines but not on an old tractor.

Karl

The tractor is critical to your business, is it not? It is indeed a high
value engine if it's failure risks lost crops and/or substantial
emergency replacement expense.

I wasn't paying attention last oil change on my Escort, and
bought 10-40, as that's what I've used for most of my cars.
I've always driven older vehicles, where that was the spec.
Well, didn't take but a couple seconds of running to know
that the Escort engine didn't like it. Had to drain and
refill with 10-30.

Jon

On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 12:17:13 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

I wasn't paying attention last oil change on my Escort, and
bought 10-40, as that's what I've used for most of my cars.
I've always driven older vehicles, where that was the spec.
Well, didn't take but a couple seconds of running to know
that the Escort engine didn't like it. Had to drain and
refill with 10-30.

Jon
And I'm running 10W40 in a 2.5 Mystique, and it loves it. How did the
escort make it's preference known?
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

"Karl Townsend" wrote:

I just got a graco drum pump with an oil quart meter. Set the number of
quarts you want. Put it in the fill hole and pull the trigger. You're done.

I want to get a 55 gallon drum of oil for all my engines. the seven
tractors, fork lift, big truck, and lawn mowers can easily use a 10-40 rated
for diesel engine use. Now, my new pickup calls for a very light 5-20 oil.
My son says the V8 engine is still made the same way they've always done it
and a 10-40 will be fine.

Anyone know the story on these very light oil specs? Is this just done for
slightly better fuel mileage? My new pick 'em up truck cost damn near 30K
and I don't want to hurt it.

Back in the day when I drove v8 beaters, I used heavier oils to keep the pressure up.

With modern manufacturing, epa regs, engines are made a lot tighter. I use what the
sticker says under the hood. In my case, 5w-30. 160K miles so far. No, I'm getting old
noises yet.

I do think it helps mileage a bit but they have also tightened up oil specs also.

I don't think anyone here can tell you with authority that you can use 10-40.

Just use what is spec'd and change it often.

Oh, you can buy oil in gallon jugs for the truck, works out fine for my Saturn, only holds
4 quarts.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 16:06:24 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Karl the clearances are much tighter on today's engine. Oil pressure is the
indicator of "potential" flow, but it's all about flow. If the viscosity is
too high, flow will be reduced, because when there is enough pressure to
lift the ball from the seat in the regulator, that will represent an easier
path and pump flow will be directed through the regulator and not the rest
of the engine. Use the viscosity the factory recommended. They built the
engine, not your son.
Steve


Go check the bearing clearance specs on the new engine and compare to
an older engine of the same manufacture what spec'd the heavier oil.
Will you find a difference in oil clearances?
Betcha won't.

If you do publish them here.

Uh, you would be wrong.

Here are the numbers for the early 3.8 through the latest 3800 engine.

3.8 prior to 89 - .0012 -.0025

3.8 89-96 - .0010 - .0025

3800 96-98 - .0010 - .002

3800 from 98-08 - .0008 - .0018

Those are from GM themselves. Similar changes have occurred on the rest
of the lines.

--
Steve W.


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
I just got a graco drum pump with an oil quart meter. Set the number of
quarts you want. Put it in the fill hole and pull the trigger. You're done.

I want to get a 55 gallon drum of oil for all my engines. the seven
tractors, fork lift, big truck, and lawn mowers can easily use a 10-40
rated for diesel engine use. Now, my new pickup calls for a very light
5-20 oil. My son says the V8 engine is still made the same way they've
always done it and a 10-40 will be fine.

Anyone know the story on these very light oil specs? Is this just done for
slightly better fuel mileage? My new pick 'em up truck cost damn near 30K
and I don't want to hurt it.

Karl

Was just having this conversation with a client who runs an autoshop the
other day. He says that all modern engines that say 5W-something on them
need a 5W-something oil. (I was fixing his alarm and phone systems).

In article .com,
"Pete C." wrote:

The tractor is critical to your business, is it not? It is indeed a high
value engine if it's failure risks lost crops and/or substantial
emergency replacement expense.

If a tractor is critical you need a spare. I would rather have 2 old
tractors than one new one

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Karl the clearances are much tighter on today's engine. Oil pressure is
the
indicator of "potential" flow, but it's all about flow. If the viscosity
is
too high, flow will be reduced, because when there is enough pressure to
lift the ball from the seat in the regulator, that will represent an
easier
path and pump flow will be directed through the regulator and not the
rest
of the engine. Use the viscosity the factory recommended. They built the
engine, not your son.

I agree with Steve. In the short term you'll probably get away with it.
In the longer term you might not. Not worth the risk in my view.

Best wishes,

Chris

Take the risk! Because there really isn't any. Oil these days is pretty darn
good and it's rare indeed for a motor to fail due to a problem with the oil.
In fact, the problem is almost never the oil but the lack of changing it
regularly enough. If you have a good quality oil it'll work fine with most
engines. That said, I would go with Shell Rotella T Synthetic. It's a 5W40
oil and it's designed specifically for diesel engines but it just happens to
be good for just about everything else too. Diesels have higher requirements
than standard gasoline engines so the oils for them are better in general.
The Rotella T Syn is great stuff. I use it for my motorcycle too. I read a
long and complex article all about oils and aside from going with a full
synthetic oil, which is very expensive, the best thing you can buy is
Rotella T Syn. If I was going to buy a drum of oil that's what I'd buy.

Hawke

clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:

And I'm running 10W40 in a 2.5 Mystique, and it loves it. How did the
escort make it's preference known?

Sounded like the lifters had trouble pumping up. Heck of a
clatter.... After switching back to 10-30, I got the same
clatter at startup, but it went away much faster, as I
assume the 10-40 worked it's way out. 2nd startup after oil
change, just a touch of clatter, hasn't done it since.
The Escort engine calls for 10-30, I just let habit take over.

Also, I have a mechanic friend that told me running too
heavy an oil in modern engines can wreck rod bearings fairly
quickly, especially if one drives off immediately after startup.

Jon

Wes wrote:

Back in the day when I drove v8 beaters, I used heavier oils to keep the pressure up.

My old Willys truck had a very very well worn Buick 350
(came that way, I sure didn't do the swap...). I ran
straight 50w and it still clattered, though not as bad as
with 40w.

Jon

clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada writes:

On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 12:17:13 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

I wasn't paying attention last oil change on my Escort, and
bought 10-40, as that's what I've used for most of my cars.
I've always driven older vehicles, where that was the spec.
Well, didn't take but a couple seconds of running to know
that the Escort engine didn't like it. Had to drain and
refill with 10-30.

Jon
And I'm running 10W40 in a 2.5 Mystique, and it loves it. How did the
escort make it's preference known?

I've heard too many scare stories about too much viscosity
stretchers. I run the recommended oil in everything (everything I own
takes 10W30 except the new truck, which wants 5W20. The Turbo wanted
5W30 $ynthetic, but it's now gone).

On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 16:07:37 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:
It sounds like you have settled the question for everything but your new
pickup. I agree with what others have said--don't risk a new engine worth
thousands to save a couple of bucks per oil change. It may be possible to
blend a light oil with the stuff from your drum, to produce the 5-20 you
need, but:
1.) How much would you save?
Nothing
2.) Could you match both the 5 and the 20 operating points?
I am way out of date since I retired 13 years ago, but then, the
multi viscosity was all due to additives, not base oil. Blending a
light oil in with regular oil will stuff it up. The lowest
viscosity my employer made then was 20/40 but we do not have the low
temperatures as in N America, so did not need a 5/* or 10/* at the
time, it may have changed since due to engine technology improvements.
I use 20/50 in my '95 Camry, the same in my '89 Patrol.
3.) How much research would this take?
About 6 months minimum of lab work making different formulations
and field testing.

The tractor is critical to your business, is it not? It is indeed a high
value engine if it's failure risks lost crops and/or substantial
emergency replacement expense.

If a tractor is critical you need a spare. I would rather have 2 old
tractors than one new one

If you run old Fords, like I do, you'd better have four.

Karl

Was just having this conversation with a client who runs an autoshop the
other day. He says that all modern engines that say 5W-something on them
need a 5W-something oil. (I was fixing his alarm and phone systems).


While I have only been paid as a machinist for 15 years, They have been
paying me to be a mechanic since 75 in various jobs from shipyards to
Ferrari dealerships.
Use the grades the factory says in your truck.
Don't use an SM rated oil, (low zinc content) in a vehicle without a
catalytic converter. It protects the cat, but doesn't protect camshafts.
Don't use C rated (diesel) oils in a gas engine that has a cat, it will ruin
it..
Don't use an "energy conserving" oil in a vehicle that has a wet clutch.
I use Delo or Rotella in all of my fleet, but in grades appropriate to the
engine makers specs, season, and mileage.
--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty

On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 21:15:00 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 16:06:24 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Karl the clearances are much tighter on today's engine. Oil pressure is the
indicator of "potential" flow, but it's all about flow. If the viscosity is
too high, flow will be reduced, because when there is enough pressure to
lift the ball from the seat in the regulator, that will represent an easier
path and pump flow will be directed through the regulator and not the rest
of the engine. Use the viscosity the factory recommended. They built the
engine, not your son.
Steve


Go check the bearing clearance specs on the new engine and compare to
an older engine of the same manufacture what spec'd the heavier oil.
Will you find a difference in oil clearances?
Betcha won't.

If you do publish them here.

Uh, you would be wrong.

Here are the numbers for the early 3.8 through the latest 3800 engine.

3.8 prior to 89 - .0012 -.0025

3.8 89-96 - .0010 - .0025

3800 96-98 - .0010 - .002

3800 from 98-08 - .0008 - .0018

Those are from GM themselves. Similar changes have occurred on the rest
of the lines.
So the middle of the spec today was the minimum spec 20 years ago. Do
you understand what this means and why? 20 years ago the metal finish
was not as fine as it is today - so "high points" could cause metal
transfer at larger nominal clearances. Todays bearing and shaft
finishes are much finer and more consistent. You could get a 1989 3.8
with bearing clearances of .0012" and run it on 10W40 or even 20W50
oil. Today, you could also happen to get a 2008 3.8 with bearing
clearances of .0012 - and still be in spec, and now you need
5W20??????
Doesn't make ANY sense Bucko. The low viscosity oil is spec'd for ONE
REASON, and ONE REASON ONLY. CAFE.

In years past the 2.5 thou max spec was ALLOWABLE because generally
thicker oil was used, making it possible to maintain adequate oil
pressure and film thickness with the larger clearances. Running 5W20
in an engine with 2.5 thou bearing clearance WOULD cause problems -
like the oil light on at idle, and bearing noises at idle, and
possibly hammered out bearings at speed under load.

two tenths of a thou difference at the minimum spec is NOT an
appreciable difference in oil clearances, and the minimum spec is the
only place where lower viscosity oil could possibly be critical.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 19:42:25 -0700, "Hawke"
wrote:


"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Karl the clearances are much tighter on today's engine. Oil pressure is
the
indicator of "potential" flow, but it's all about flow. If the viscosity
is
too high, flow will be reduced, because when there is enough pressure to
lift the ball from the seat in the regulator, that will represent an
easier
path and pump flow will be directed through the regulator and not the
rest
of the engine. Use the viscosity the factory recommended. They built the
engine, not your son.

I agree with Steve. In the short term you'll probably get away with it.
In the longer term you might not. Not worth the risk in my view.

Best wishes,

Chris

Take the risk! Because there really isn't any. Oil these days is pretty darn
good and it's rare indeed for a motor to fail due to a problem with the oil.
In fact, the problem is almost never the oil but the lack of changing it
regularly enough. If you have a good quality oil it'll work fine with most
engines. That said, I would go with Shell Rotella T Synthetic. It's a 5W40
oil and it's designed specifically for diesel engines but it just happens to
be good for just about everything else too. Diesels have higher requirements
than standard gasoline engines so the oils for them are better in general.
The Rotella T Syn is great stuff. I use it for my motorcycle too. I read a
long and complex article all about oils and aside from going with a full
synthetic oil, which is very expensive, the best thing you can buy is
Rotella T Syn. If I was going to buy a drum of oil that's what I'd buy.

Hawke

My recommendation would also be Rotella T. Depends where you are and
how cold it gets whether the synth is an advantage (OK, always better,
but not necessarily ENOUGH better to make it adviseable) for you. In
the southern states you could very well get by with 15W40 conventional
all year round on all your engines - but 5W40 will definitely do the
job for all of them.

The ONLY thing to be carefull of with "all fleet" oils is some still
have zinc in them at higher levels than recommended for todays
gasoline engines (which is really only an issue if they are burning
oil) The new api spec only applies to 5 (or 0)base oils (and possibly
10W30), not 15 base and above. Why? becuase 5 base oils are more
likely to be consumed, depositing the zinc in the catalytic converters
which would possibly cause them to fail before 100,000 km.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 18:53:27 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:

And I'm running 10W40 in a 2.5 Mystique, and it loves it. How did the
escort make it's preference known?

Sounded like the lifters had trouble pumping up. Heck of a
clatter.... After switching back to 10-30, I got the same
clatter at startup, but it went away much faster, as I
assume the 10-40 worked it's way out. 2nd startup after oil
change, just a touch of clatter, hasn't done it since.
The Escort engine calls for 10-30, I just let habit take over.

10W30 or 10W40 should both be satisfactoy for that engine - the more
critical thing is the oil filter - does it have an effective
anti-drainback valve? If not, the lifters will clatter on startup just
about every time. With a good filter, they are generally quiet
regardless because they are filled almost immediately.

Also, I have a mechanic friend that told me running too
heavy an oil in modern engines can wreck rod bearings fairly
quickly, especially if one drives off immediately after startup.

Jon

Have never seen it happen. Now 20W50 at zero degrees - yup, quite
possible.

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Oct 12, 11:19*pm, Joe Pfeiffer wrote:
...
I've heard too many scare stories about too much viscosity
stretchers. *I run the recommended oil in everything (everything I own
takes 10W30 except the new truck, which wants 5W20. *The Turbo wanted
5W30 $ynthetic, but it's now gone).

Me, too. This graduated pouring container from Harbor Freight makes it
easy to measure out the right amount of oil from 5 gallon jugs;

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96922

I traced the molded lines and numbers with a laundry marker to make
them visible. You could use water from a kitchen measuring cup to
graduate it more finely than full quarts & liters.

Jim Wilkins

Jon Anderson wrote:


Back in the day when I drove v8 beaters, I used heavier oils to keep the pressure up.

My old Willys truck had a very very well worn Buick 350
(came that way, I sure didn't do the swap...). I ran
straight 50w and it still clattered, though not as bad as
with 40w.


I remember bringing my siblings home on from visiting their dad when I was on the way from
MCAS Beaufort to visit my mom and grandparents in another state. Poor engine was really
sick, oil pressure went to zero at stop signs so I either put it in neutral or blipped the
throttle with my foot firmly on brake (auto tranny). Engine never made noises but seeing
0 on the gage at low rpm sure was disturbing.

Castrol 20W50 got it back to from Michigan to S.C. where I rebuilt the engine the next
week. I'd have put gear lube in it to get back to base.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

In article ,
"Karl Townsend" wrote:

The tractor is critical to your business, is it not? It is indeed a high
value engine if it's failure risks lost crops and/or substantial
emergency replacement expense.

If a tractor is critical you need a spare. I would rather have 2 old
tractors than one new one

If you run old Fords, like I do, you'd better have four.

With a Deere two will do

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