I've got a Roll-In saw which takes a 9' blade. Not the most
common length, I seldom find them on ebay at the right
length. Quality blades run $35 each and up.

I discovered that I could TIG weld the bimetal blades using
308SS alloy, and made up a nice fixture to do this after
having initial trouble with blades breaking. They usually
broke somewhere other than the weld, with cracks starting at
the bottom of the gullet. Figured out I was pulling too much
tension and have backed off. I get great blade life now, but...

I know many folks silver solder or braze blades, but from my
recollection these are folks running regular band saws. Is
anyone silver soldering/brazing blades on a cut off type
band saw where the blade must endure two 45 degree twists
each pass?

With regards to resistance welders, the last time I looked
them up there is a big price difference between carbon steel
blade welders and bi-metal welders. Anyone know what the
difference is? Higher current needed?

Anyone successfully build a resistant butt welder capable of
welding 3/4 x .032 bi-metal blades?

Last question, I have a Grainger hand held spot welder. It's
rated 5500 amps output at 1.6 volts with 6" long tongs. I'm
wondering if I could build the jaws portion of a blade
welder and connect up the spot welder with heavy welding cables?

Ok, ONE last question. Anyone know of an outfit in central
to southern California or Reno that would weld up blades
from my supplied stock?

Thanks,

Jon

On Sep 19, 6:05*pm, Jon Anderson wrote:

I know many folks silver solder or braze blades, but from my
recollection these are folks running regular band saws. Is
anyone silver soldering/brazing blades on a cut off type
band saw where the blade must endure two 45 degree twists
each pass?


Thanks,

Jon

Silver soldering works okay for cut off band saws. The trick is to
put the ends so one can grind a scarf on both ends at the same time.
And then some sort of jig to hold the blades in alignment while one
silver solders.


Dan

"Jon Anderson" wrote in message
...
I've got a Roll-In saw which takes a 9' blade. Not the most common length,
I seldom find them on ebay at the right length. Quality blades run $35
each and up.

I discovered that I could TIG weld the bimetal blades using 308SS alloy,
and made up a nice fixture to do this after having initial trouble with
blades breaking. They usually broke somewhere other than the weld, with
cracks starting at the bottom of the gullet. Figured out I was pulling too
much tension and have backed off. I get great blade life now, but...

I know many folks silver solder or braze blades, but from my recollection
these are folks running regular band saws. Is anyone silver
soldering/brazing blades on a cut off type band saw where the blade must
endure two 45 degree twists each pass?

With regards to resistance welders, the last time I looked them up there
is a big price difference between carbon steel blade welders and bi-metal
welders. Anyone know what the difference is? Higher current needed?

Anyone successfully build a resistant butt welder capable of welding 3/4 x
.032 bi-metal blades?

Last question, I have a Grainger hand held spot welder. It's rated 5500
amps output at 1.6 volts with 6" long tongs. I'm wondering if I could
build the jaws portion of a blade welder and connect up the spot welder
with heavy welding cables?

Ok, ONE last question. Anyone know of an outfit in central to southern
California or Reno that would weld up blades from my supplied stock?

Thanks,

Jon

Before I had a blade welder, I took a coil to a local supplier
and he welded 20 blades for me for $50.

wrote:

Silver soldering works okay for cut off band saws. The trick is to
put the ends so one can grind a scarf on both ends at the same time.
And then some sort of jig to hold the blades in alignment while one
silver solders.

Ok, think I'll make up a fixture and give it a try.

Thank you,

Jon

"Jon Anderson" wrote in message
...
I've got a Roll-In saw which takes a 9' blade. Not the most common length,
I seldom find them on ebay at the right length. Quality blades run $35
each and up.

I discovered that I could TIG weld the bimetal blades using 308SS alloy,
and made up a nice fixture to do this after having initial trouble with
blades breaking. They usually broke somewhere other than the weld, with
cracks starting at the bottom of the gullet. Figured out I was pulling too
much tension and have backed off. I get great blade life now, but...

I know many folks silver solder or braze blades, but from my recollection
these are folks running regular band saws. Is anyone silver
soldering/brazing blades on a cut off type band saw where the blade must
endure two 45 degree twists each pass?

With regards to resistance welders, the last time I looked them up there
is a big price difference between carbon steel blade welders and bi-metal
welders. Anyone know what the difference is? Higher current needed?

Anyone successfully build a resistant butt welder capable of welding 3/4 x
.032 bi-metal blades?

Last question, I have a Grainger hand held spot welder. It's rated 5500
amps output at 1.6 volts with 6" long tongs. I'm wondering if I could
build the jaws portion of a blade welder and connect up the spot welder
with heavy welding cables?

Ok, ONE last question. Anyone know of an outfit in central to southern
California or Reno that would weld up blades from my supplied stock?

Thanks,

Jon

Hey, that sounds like my saw as well. Is it the 14" throat model? I have to
say, it's one of the best things I ever stole, er.. bought for $75. A couple
hundred later in rebuild parts, and it works great. Never did set up the
hydraulic damping cylinder, probably need a new one. but for my occasional
use, I'm really happy with it.

bill

Tom Gardner wrote:

Before I had a blade welder, I took a coil to a local supplier
and he welded 20 blades for me for $50.

I'd happily pay that if I could find someone nearby, I'd
still be getting blades for less than half retail.
But Sacramento is the nearest region likely to have someone
that can do it, and that's a 120 mile round trip... I do get
down there though, so combined with other business it's easy
to justify. Willing to ship my bulk blade too, if the
overall costs still work out.

But I am going to try silver soldering, if it works for me,
I'm set!

Jon

Bill Martin wrote:

Hey, that sounds like my saw as well. Is it the 14" throat model? I have to
say, it's one of the best things I ever stole, er.. bought for $75. A couple
hundred later in rebuild parts, and it works great. Never did set up the
hydraulic damping cylinder, probably need a new one. but for my occasional
use, I'm really happy with it.

$75???? Yeah, you got yourself a hell of a deal!
I paid about 12x that, though I still consider mine a good
deal. I've only had to replace the rubber tires on mine.
It's a 9" throat. I think it's the best overall compromise
for a small shop. I'd love to have a real bandsaw, and a
good cutoff saw, and a cold saw, but I'd need another couple
hundred square feet of shop....
Bought it from ggmachine on ebay, out of Florida. It was
looking to sell for more than one from Reliable, but the
Florida seller get some killer rates on shipping. Got it
shipped to Northern California for about half what Reliable
wanted to ship theirs 600 miles.

One thing I love is the ability to set up and saw most
anything. I've made a couple jobs -real- profitable by
sawing 90% of the material I used to machine out.

Jon

"Jon Anderson" wrote in message
...
Tom Gardner wrote:

Before I had a blade welder, I took a coil to a local supplier
and he welded 20 blades for me for $50.

I'd happily pay that if I could find someone nearby, I'd still be getting
blades for less than half retail.
But Sacramento is the nearest region likely to have someone that can do
it, and that's a 120 mile round trip... I do get down there though, so
combined with other business it's easy to justify. Willing to ship my bulk
blade too, if the overall costs still work out.

But I am going to try silver soldering, if it works for me, I'm set!

Jon

I've silver soldered them, it's a bit tricky but works.

Jon Anderson wrote:
I've got a Roll-In saw which takes a 9' blade. Not the most common
length, I seldom find them on ebay at the right length. Quality blades
run $35 each and up.

I discovered that I could TIG weld the bimetal blades using 308SS alloy,
and made up a nice fixture to do this after having initial trouble with
blades breaking. They usually broke somewhere other than the weld, with
cracks starting at the bottom of the gullet. Figured out I was pulling
too much tension and have backed off. I get great blade life now, but...

I know many folks silver solder or braze blades, but from my
recollection these are folks running regular band saws. Is anyone silver
soldering/brazing blades on a cut off type band saw where the blade must
endure two 45 degree twists each pass?

With regards to resistance welders, the last time I looked them up there
is a big price difference between carbon steel blade welders and
bi-metal welders. Anyone know what the difference is? Higher current
needed?

Anyone successfully build a resistant butt welder capable of welding 3/4
x .032 bi-metal blades?

Last question, I have a Grainger hand held spot welder. It's rated 5500
amps output at 1.6 volts with 6" long tongs. I'm wondering if I could
build the jaws portion of a blade welder and connect up the spot welder
with heavy welding cables?

Ok, ONE last question. Anyone know of an outfit in central to southern
California or Reno that would weld up blades from my supplied stock?

Thanks,

Jon


I can help you on this one.

I silver solder up my band saw blades.
I do this as follows.
The 1st thing is tocut to length. the 2nd is to scarf the ends, I use
the top wheel of my linisher for this. Scarf about 1/4in.
then I made a jig from 2 4in long 1in by 1in angle with a gap in the
middle.
I clamp the jig in the leg vice and clamp the band saw blade down to
the angle to line it up over the gap.. Essential!!!
Bend the blade do that they spring toward each other.
Put a strip of silver solder foil if you have it or say 1/32nd easy
flo wire between the 2 scarfs. flux all over with easyflo stainless
steel grade flux. Best there is.
then heat till it all flows together .
the springy ness of the 2 blade parts will pull them together.
Heat a little up to 1/2 in either side of the solder to anneal.
dont quench!!

Remove flux and clean up on said linisher or use a hand grinder.

Run a trial in sone scrap ones to start with to perfect your process.
My band saw machine doesnt twist the blade.

Keep us informed how you get on.
Ted
Dorset
UK

Jon Anderson wrote:
I've got a Roll-In saw which takes a 9' blade. Not the most common
length, I seldom find them on ebay at the right length. Quality
blades run $35 each and up.

I discovered that I could TIG weld the bimetal blades using 308SS
alloy, and made up a nice fixture to do this after having initial
trouble with blades breaking. They usually broke somewhere other than
the weld, with cracks starting at the bottom of the gullet. Figured
out I was pulling too much tension and have backed off. I get great
blade life now, but...

I know many folks silver solder or braze blades, but from my
recollection these are folks running regular band saws. Is anyone
silver soldering/brazing blades on a cut off type band saw where the
blade must endure two 45 degree twists each pass?

Yes, and I had very variable results with brazing. Some blades would
last months, others would break at the joing in a couple turns around
the wheels.
With regards to resistance welders, the last time I looked them up
there is a big price difference between carbon steel blade welders
and bi-metal welders. Anyone know what the difference is? Higher
current needed?

Anyone successfully build a resistant butt welder capable of welding
3/4 x .032 bi-metal blades?

I started to build one, wound my own transformer, and was getting
promising results when I got a real DEAL on a German blade welder on
eBay. The problem that held me back was the sliding upset mechanism
that brings the ends together DURING the weld. This welder still isn't
perfect, but I get usable blades most of the time.
Last question, I have a Grainger hand held spot welder. It's rated
5500 amps output at 1.6 volts with 6" long tongs. I'm wondering if I
could build the jaws portion of a blade welder and connect up the
spot welder with heavy welding cables?
This sounds quite promising. You need the right amount of upset (maybe
1/8" or so), the right pressure, VERY accurate movement to keep the
blade ends parallel, and the weld current needs to turn off as soon as
the upset completes.
I think you need to be able to turn down the current quite a bit, maybe
to 1000 - 1500 A or it will just blow the joint to bits.
The blade holders on mine were shop-made, I'm guessing in a
previous-previous life the welder was adapted for something else, and
they are not quite perfect, but workable.

Jon

Jon Elson wrote:

This sounds quite promising. You need the right amount of upset (maybe
1/8" or so), the right pressure, VERY accurate movement to keep the
blade ends parallel, and the weld current needs to turn off as soon as
the upset completes.
I think you need to be able to turn down the current quite a bit, maybe
to 1000 - 1500 A or it will just blow the joint to bits.
The blade holders on mine were shop-made, I'm guessing in a
previous-previous life the welder was adapted for something else, and
they are not quite perfect, but workable.

Well, maybe I will experiment with this then. I have linear
slide assembly that's too rough to do much else with, but
still as or more precise as anything I could make up. Just
need to make SURE one side is insulated from the rest!

There's no way to vary current, except perhaps to use a
couple extra feet of welding cable. Ratings drop
significantly from 6" tongs out to 18" tongs, resistance
losses in the copper tongs I'm guessing?

Timing, I'd just have to wing it I think. I've got good
reflexes still, I think I could do it. And, it would be easy
to anneal, just as with a purpose made welder, bump the weld
button until the blade is the right color.

I think I'll try the silver solder first as it's the
easiest, but for sure I'll try using the spot welder too. If
that works out, I'll do up plans/notes/photos for the drop box.

Jon

On Fri, 19 Sep 2008 17:05:31 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:


I know many folks silver solder or braze blades, but from my
recollection these are folks running regular band saws. Is
anyone silver soldering/brazing blades on a cut off type
band saw where the blade must endure two 45 degree twists
each pass?


I tig weld mine, have very good results, except for Hertel brand
blades, they break repeatedly when welded. Lenox Diemaster 2 works
great, I have a little clamp fixture, weld, and grind flush. Sometimes
I will anneal on the blade welder on my vertical saw. I never could
get a good weld on that welder, most likey 1950's vintage saw.

www.enter.net/~rbraun/fixture1.jpg

never tried brazing.

picture soon, batteries charging.....

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.

On Sep 21, 12:05 am, Jon Anderson wrote:
Jon Elson wrote:
This sounds quite promising. You need the right amount of upset (maybe
1/8" or so), the right pressure, VERY accurate movement to keep the
blade ends parallel, and the weld current needs to turn off as soon as
the upset completes.
I think you need to be able to turn down the current quite a bit, maybe
to 1000 - 1500 A or it will just blow the joint to bits.
The blade holders on mine were shop-made, I'm guessing in a
previous-previous life the welder was adapted for something else, and
they are not quite perfect, but workable.

Well, maybe I will experiment with this then. I have linear
slide assembly that's too rough to do much else with, but
still as or more precise as anything I could make up. Just
need to make SURE one side is insulated from the rest!

There's no way to vary current, except perhaps to use a
couple extra feet of welding cable. Ratings drop
significantly from 6" tongs out to 18" tongs, resistance
losses in the copper tongs I'm guessing?

Timing, I'd just have to wing it I think. I've got good
reflexes still, I think I could do it. And, it would be easy
to anneal, just as with a purpose made welder, bump the weld
button until the blade is the right color.

I think I'll try the silver solder first as it's the
easiest, but for sure I'll try using the spot welder too. If
that works out, I'll do up plans/notes/photos for the drop box.

Jon



I built a band saw blade welder in the early '90's... It was briefly
described in HSM and Projects in Metal #7 IIRC.

The most important parameters are stick-out of the blade ends from the
clamps, upsetting force, shut-off of welding current at the end of the
upset stroke, and post-weld annealing.

The actual welding current is not THAT critical it the current is shut
off automatically at the end of the welding stroke. If the current is
way too high the band saw blade ends will disappear in a shower of
sparks; too little current and the weld is incomplete. Between these
two limits there is considerable latitude.

There are some very good power control circuits published on the 'net
using 40 amp triacs. At 220 VAC that ought to be enough for any band
saw.

After successful welding the annealing process makes or breaks the
joint. Follow the directions on the blade container TO THE LETTER. I
learned this the hard way. For example on my DART blades box it
says: "Anneal in subdued light to faint red." Following this rule I
found every weld a winner.

Wolfgang

Hey Kusti,

Two that look good came up on modeleng-list.

http://wiki.owwm.com/(X(1)S(oqv5z445kadkcmbrhhlmtb45))/Default.aspx?Page=BandsawBladeSoldering&AspxAutoDe tectCookieSupport=1

and

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=303

Take care. Make sure you are NOT part of the meat-saw's diet.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

Have you ever tried the $35 blade? I have only broken one Doall
Imperial 100 blade in 10 years. And they last a LONG time.
Nothing wrong with welding up your own blades. I have done it with
home made jig as another poster said and it works well too. But really,
high quality blades are well worth the price, in my opinion.
I have welded blades at night school. Those blade welders have to
supply power for a long time, say 3 or 4 seconds, whereas a spot welder
is just discharging a capacitor over one spot isn't it? (If so, that
current that you mention is only there for a few milliseconds.)
Then, again, on the blade welder, you have to go through an annealing
process where you reheat the blade till it smokes. This takes a
(relatively)lot of time, too. To do that, you keep "jpgging" the heat
button until the desired heating occurs.
Enco sells a blade welder that puts out 250 amps at about 5 volts
and it can only weld 1/2" blades. For 3/4" or 1" blades, you may need
500 amps at that voltge, again, for several seconds at a time.

***I am pretty sure of my data here, but if anyone sees an error, please
feel free to correct me.

Pete Stanaitis
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Jon Anderson wrote:
I've got a Roll-In saw which takes a 9' blade. Not the most common
length, I seldom find them on ebay at the right length. Quality blades
run $35 each and up.

I discovered that I could TIG weld the bimetal blades using 308SS alloy,
and made up a nice fixture to do this after having initial trouble with
blades breaking. They usually broke somewhere other than the weld, with
cracks starting at the bottom of the gullet. Figured out I was pulling
too much tension and have backed off. I get great blade life now, but...

I know many folks silver solder or braze blades, but from my
recollection these are folks running regular band saws. Is anyone silver
soldering/brazing blades on a cut off type band saw where the blade must
endure two 45 degree twists each pass?

With regards to resistance welders, the last time I looked them up there
is a big price difference between carbon steel blade welders and
bi-metal welders. Anyone know what the difference is? Higher current
needed?

Anyone successfully build a resistant butt welder capable of welding 3/4
x .032 bi-metal blades?

Last question, I have a Grainger hand held spot welder. It's rated 5500
amps output at 1.6 volts with 6" long tongs. I'm wondering if I could
build the jaws portion of a blade welder and connect up the spot welder
with heavy welding cables?

Ok, ONE last question. Anyone know of an outfit in central to southern
California or Reno that would weld up blades from my supplied stock?

Thanks,

Jon

On Sun, 21 Sep 2008 16:24:05 -0800, Jon Anderson wrote:


And, there have been a couple times that I would have
cleared out the center of a part with a saw blade had I been
able to feed a cut blade through a starter hole and weld it.



Just put the whole saw through and nibble away from the inside.

spaco wrote:

Have you ever tried the $35 blade?

I've been buying Lenox blades mostly. They almost always
crack from the gullet, though rarely now, since I figured
out I'd been tensioning the blades too tight. Sometimes I'll
chip out a tooth or two, and it's nice to be able to remove
them and reweld the blade, else teeth just keep getting
stripped off.

Also, I'm a cheap *******. The roll of Starrett blade stock,
even if I paid $5 each for the 11 blades I can get out of
the roll, would come to just over $100, or less than $10 a
blade.

whereas a spot welder is just discharging a capacitor over one spot isn't it?

There are capacitive discharge spot welders, but mine is a
hand held resistance welder. It produces current for as long
as I hold the switch down (or until the breaker pops... G)

And, there have been a couple times that I would have
cleared out the center of a part with a saw blade had I been
able to feed a cut blade through a starter hole and weld it.


Jon

On Sun, 21 Sep 2008 09:08:12 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Sep 21, 12:05 am, Jon Anderson wrote:
Jon Elson wrote:
This sounds quite promising. You need the right amount of upset (maybe
1/8" or so), the right pressure, VERY accurate movement to keep the
blade ends parallel, and the weld current needs to turn off as soon as
the upset completes.
I think you need to be able to turn down the current quite a bit, maybe
to 1000 - 1500 A or it will just blow the joint to bits.
The blade holders on mine were shop-made, I'm guessing in a
previous-previous life the welder was adapted for something else, and
they are not quite perfect, but workable.

Well, maybe I will experiment with this then. I have linear
slide assembly that's too rough to do much else with, but
still as or more precise as anything I could make up. Just
need to make SURE one side is insulated from the rest!

There's no way to vary current, except perhaps to use a
couple extra feet of welding cable. Ratings drop
significantly from 6" tongs out to 18" tongs, resistance
losses in the copper tongs I'm guessing?

Timing, I'd just have to wing it I think. I've got good
reflexes still, I think I could do it. And, it would be easy
to anneal, just as with a purpose made welder, bump the weld
button until the blade is the right color.

I think I'll try the silver solder first as it's the
easiest, but for sure I'll try using the spot welder too. If
that works out, I'll do up plans/notes/photos for the drop box.

Jon



I built a band saw blade welder in the early '90's... It was briefly
described in HSM and Projects in Metal #7 IIRC.

The most important parameters are stick-out of the blade ends from the
clamps, upsetting force, shut-off of welding current at the end of the
upset stroke, and post-weld annealing.

The actual welding current is not THAT critical it the current is shut
off automatically at the end of the welding stroke. If the current is
way too high the band saw blade ends will disappear in a shower of
sparks; too little current and the weld is incomplete. Between these
two limits there is considerable latitude.

There are some very good power control circuits published on the 'net
using 40 amp triacs. At 220 VAC that ought to be enough for any band
saw.

After successful welding the annealing process makes or breaks the
joint. Follow the directions on the blade container TO THE LETTER. I
learned this the hard way. For example on my DART blades box it
says: "Anneal in subdued light to faint red." Following this rule I
found every weld a winner.

Wolfgang


Ive got 3 commercial blade welders, and damned if I can get any of
them to work properly.

Id be tickled to have someone snag all 3, fix em up and give me back
one that works properly and they could keep the rest.

Gunner

"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich

Jon Anderson wrote:

Timing, I'd just have to wing it I think. I've got good reflexes still,
I think I could do it. And, it would be easy to anneal, just as with a
purpose made welder, bump the weld button until the blade is the right
color.

The welders I've used have a kind of "latch" mechanism that applies
upset pressure and turns on the weld current, and when the clamps move
together a certain amount a catch trips and the current is shut off.

Jon

spaco wrote:
I have welded blades at night school. Those blade welders have to
supply power for a long time, say 3 or 4 seconds,
The DoAll welder on the big saw at work does it in about 1/4 second.
One quick bzzt and it is done.
A VERY quick bzzt. My German welder at home takes a bit longer, close
to a full second. But, that seems to get a better weld than if I turn
the current up to the next notch.
whereas a spot welder
is just discharging a capacitor over one spot isn't it? (If so, that
current that you mention is only there for a few milliseconds.)
Most industrial-grade spot welders are just transformers. Instrument
spot welders do use the capacitor discharge principle.

Jon

Jon Elson wrote:

The welders I've used have a kind of "latch" mechanism that applies
upset pressure and turns on the weld current, and when the clamps move
together a certain amount a catch trips and the current is shut off.

Well, maybe I could put a contactor between the spot welder
and the outlet, and switch it off there for the welding cycle.
I don't want to hack the spot welder to the point I can't
use it for that purpose. I'm sure I can wing it enough to
see if it's even going to work, and if it looks promising
I'll add the contactor and a switch to cut it out.

Or, drive down to Gunners and see if I think I can get two
working welders out of three... G


Jon

Gunner Asch wrote:
Ive got 3 commercial blade welders, and damned if I can get any of
them to work properly.

Id be tickled to have someone snag all 3, fix em up and give me back
one that works properly and they could keep the rest.

Gunner
Too bad youre not closer. I'd love to try that. I have very good luck
with the one at school, from 1/4" up to 1" blades.
...lew...

On Sun, 21 Sep 2008 20:05:19 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:


Ive got 3 commercial blade welders, and damned if I can get any of
them to work properly.


Any DoAlls amongst them? If so, look for an adjustment buried in the
center of the insulating bushing that goes thru the power contacts.
It's a hex socket screw that adjusts when the weld current shuts off
as the clamps move together. I don't remember how I found the
adjustment on my saw's welder, but until I did it wouldn't weld worth
a damn. If it shuts off to early the weld does not upset enough, too
late and you get holes blown out of the joint. When it's right the
rest of the adjustments seem to be minor tweaks and not very fussy.

--
Ned Simmons

On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 06:44:46 -0600, Lew Hartswick
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
Ive got 3 commercial blade welders, and damned if I can get any of
them to work properly.

Id be tickled to have someone snag all 3, fix em up and give me back
one that works properly and they could keep the rest.

Gunner
Too bad youre not closer. I'd love to try that. I have very good luck
with the one at school, from 1/4" up to 1" blades.
...lew...


Know anyone coming this way?

Gunner

"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich