"Jon Anderson" wrote in message
...
I've got a Roll-In saw which takes a 9' blade. Not the most common length,
I seldom find them on ebay at the right length. Quality blades run $35
each and up.

I discovered that I could TIG weld the bimetal blades using 308SS alloy,
and made up a nice fixture to do this after having initial trouble with
blades breaking. They usually broke somewhere other than the weld, with
cracks starting at the bottom of the gullet. Figured out I was pulling too
much tension and have backed off. I get great blade life now, but...

I know many folks silver solder or braze blades, but from my recollection
these are folks running regular band saws. Is anyone silver
soldering/brazing blades on a cut off type band saw where the blade must
endure two 45 degree twists each pass?

With regards to resistance welders, the last time I looked them up there
is a big price difference between carbon steel blade welders and bi-metal
welders. Anyone know what the difference is? Higher current needed?

Anyone successfully build a resistant butt welder capable of welding 3/4 x
.032 bi-metal blades?

Last question, I have a Grainger hand held spot welder. It's rated 5500
amps output at 1.6 volts with 6" long tongs. I'm wondering if I could
build the jaws portion of a blade welder and connect up the spot welder
with heavy welding cables?

Ok, ONE last question. Anyone know of an outfit in central to southern
California or Reno that would weld up blades from my supplied stock?

Thanks,

Jon

Hey, that sounds like my saw as well. Is it the 14" throat model? I have to
say, it's one of the best things I ever stole, er.. bought for $75. A couple
hundred later in rebuild parts, and it works great. Never did set up the
hydraulic damping cylinder, probably need a new one. but for my occasional
use, I'm really happy with it.

bill