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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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resistance welding
All the connections in my little toaster oven are resistance welded. Does
anyone have an experience replacing one of these elements? I thought about a momentary zap using a 6 or 12 volt battery. Any thoughts. |
#2
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resistance welding
Hank wrote:
All the connections in my little toaster oven are resistance welded. Does anyone have an experience replacing one of these elements? I thought about a momentary zap using a 6 or 12 volt battery. Any thoughts. Buy a new toaster, they're cheap enough. Not worth the effort to replace them. Jim |
#3
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resistance welding
"Jim Chandler" wrote: Buy a new toaster, they're cheap enough. Not worth the effort to replace them. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ He's not being cheap. He hates to throw away a perfectly good oven when there might be some way to make it last a little longer. Twisted connections might work if there is an end to twist onto. Likewise crimp connectors. Or silver solder. Or pop-rivets. Or self-tapping screws. |
#4
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resistance welding
Hank,
On my last toaster fix, I got lucky and the flat chrome-like ribbon connectors that were supposed to be resistance welded (failed) had enough width that I was able to bolt them together with a # 8 bolt, nut and washers. Ivan Vegvary "Hank" wrote in message ... All the connections in my little toaster oven are resistance welded. Does anyone have an experience replacing one of these elements? I thought about a momentary zap using a 6 or 12 volt battery. Any thoughts. |
#5
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resistance welding
On Fri, 08 Aug 2008 00:47:28 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote: "Jim Chandler" wrote: Buy a new toaster, they're cheap enough. Not worth the effort to replace them. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ He's not being cheap. He hates to throw away a perfectly good oven when there might be some way to make it last a little longer. Twisted connections might work if there is an end to twist onto. Likewise crimp connectors. Or silver solder. Or pop-rivets. Or self-tapping screws. Crimp connectors can work. I've repaired our toaster a couple times when the resistance wire (ribbon actually) failed where it was terminated under a machine screw. The ribbon was too short to make a new connection, but a ring terminal added enough length to reach the screw. I wouldn't have bothered, but the toaster is one my mother-in-law bought at the GE company store when she was working there after WW2. Maybe the OP has a sentimental attachment to his toaster oven (or maybe he's just cheapg). -- Ned Simmons |
#6
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resistance welding
"Hank" wrote in message ... All the connections in my little toaster oven are resistance welded. Does anyone have an experience replacing one of these elements? I thought about a momentary zap using a 6 or 12 volt battery. Any thoughts. Try using the ink tube out of a ball point pen if you can find one that still has a metal tube. Cut a short length, clean it out well,put the ends of the ribbon into it and crimp with a pair of pliers or vise grip. |
#7
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resistance welding
Leo Lichtman wrote:
"Jim Chandler" wrote: Buy a new toaster, they're cheap enough. Not worth the effort to replace them. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ He's not being cheap. He hates to throw away a perfectly good oven when there might be some way to make it last a little longer. Twisted connections might work if there is an end to twist onto. Likewise crimp connectors. Or silver solder. Or pop-rivets. Or self-tapping screws. I didn't mean to imply that he was being cheap. I probably should have said that the toasters were inexpensive enough. There does come a point where the effort involved to repair something that is inexpensive to start with is counterproductive. I'm kind of the same way but when I reach the point of diminishing returns I go get a new one. Jim |
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