Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default resistance welding

All the connections in my little toaster oven are resistance welded. Does
anyone have an experience replacing one of these elements?

I thought about a momentary zap using a 6 or 12 volt battery. Any thoughts.


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Hank wrote:
All the connections in my little toaster oven are resistance welded. Does
anyone have an experience replacing one of these elements?

I thought about a momentary zap using a 6 or 12 volt battery. Any thoughts.


Buy a new toaster, they're cheap enough. Not worth the effort to replace
them.

Jim
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Default resistance welding


"Jim Chandler" wrote: Buy a new toaster, they're cheap enough. Not worth
the effort to replace
them.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
He's not being cheap. He hates to throw away a perfectly good oven when
there might be some way to make it last a little longer.

Twisted connections might work if there is an end to twist onto. Likewise
crimp connectors. Or silver solder. Or pop-rivets. Or self-tapping
screws.


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Hank,

On my last toaster fix, I got lucky and the flat chrome-like ribbon
connectors that were supposed to be resistance welded (failed) had enough
width that I was able to bolt them together with a # 8 bolt, nut and
washers.

Ivan Vegvary
"Hank" wrote in message
...
All the connections in my little toaster oven are resistance welded. Does
anyone have an experience replacing one of these elements?

I thought about a momentary zap using a 6 or 12 volt battery. Any
thoughts.



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Default resistance welding

On Fri, 08 Aug 2008 00:47:28 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:


"Jim Chandler" wrote: Buy a new toaster, they're cheap enough. Not worth
the effort to replace
them.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
He's not being cheap. He hates to throw away a perfectly good oven when
there might be some way to make it last a little longer.

Twisted connections might work if there is an end to twist onto. Likewise
crimp connectors. Or silver solder. Or pop-rivets. Or self-tapping
screws.


Crimp connectors can work. I've repaired our toaster a couple times
when the resistance wire (ribbon actually) failed where it was
terminated under a machine screw. The ribbon was too short to make a
new connection, but a ring terminal added enough length to reach the
screw.

I wouldn't have bothered, but the toaster is one my mother-in-law
bought at the GE company store when she was working there after WW2.
Maybe the OP has a sentimental attachment to his toaster oven (or
maybe he's just cheapg).

--
Ned Simmons


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Default resistance welding


"Hank" wrote in message
...
All the connections in my little toaster oven are resistance welded. Does
anyone have an experience replacing one of these elements?

I thought about a momentary zap using a 6 or 12 volt battery. Any
thoughts.



Try using the ink tube out of a ball point pen if you can find one that
still has a metal tube. Cut a short length, clean it out well,put the ends
of the ribbon into it and crimp with a pair of pliers or vise grip.


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Leo Lichtman wrote:
"Jim Chandler" wrote: Buy a new toaster, they're cheap enough. Not worth
the effort to replace

them.


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
He's not being cheap. He hates to throw away a perfectly good oven when
there might be some way to make it last a little longer.

Twisted connections might work if there is an end to twist onto. Likewise
crimp connectors. Or silver solder. Or pop-rivets. Or self-tapping
screws.



I didn't mean to imply that he was being cheap. I probably should have
said that the toasters were inexpensive enough. There does come a point
where the effort involved to repair something that is inexpensive to
start with is counterproductive. I'm kind of the same way but when I
reach the point of diminishing returns I go get a new one.

Jim
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