Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Just tell your supplier you want a .75-11.5NH tap or die.
|
#2
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
desperado writes:
I have never seen taps, dies or even rethreading taps and dies to cut garden hose thread, which I believe is 3/4 11 1/2 size. Anybody have any sources? No. They don't exist. These threads cannot be cut with taps or dies. See: http://groups.google.com/group/rec.c...b1f31fd158cf14 Google ".75-11.5NH tap die" = 1 hit = Link farm pirating me saying they don't exist. |
#3
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Just tell your supplier you want a .75-11.5NH tap or die.
Make sure you ask for a left-hand wrench to turn it, and a can of elbow grease for lubricant. |
#4
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() I have never seen taps, dies or even rethreading taps and dies to cut garden hose thread, which I believe is 3/4 11 1/2 size. Anybody have any sources?-- don paolino |
#5
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
According to desperado :
I have never seen taps, dies or even rethreading taps and dies to cut garden hose thread, which I believe is 3/4 11 1/2 size. Anybody have any sources?-- It is called a lathe. And not all will cut 11.5 TPI, so make sure of that first. Then learn to cut threads on a lathe -- both external and internal. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#6
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Don Foreman wrote:
On Sat, 3 Nov 2007 21:26:17 -0800, "desperado" wrote: I have never seen taps, dies or even rethreading taps and dies to cut garden hose thread, which I believe is 3/4 11 1/2 size. Anybody have any sources?-- don paolino It is 11.5" pitch, but it isn't 3/4" OD on a machined (not rollformed) brass male fitting I have in my hand is 1.049". It's based on 3/4" pipe sizing. |
#7
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Keywords:
In article , Don Foreman wrote: On Sat, 03 Nov 2007 23:53:18 -0500, Richard J Kinch wrote: desperado writes: I have never seen taps, dies or even rethreading taps and dies to cut garden hose thread, which I believe is 3/4 11 1/2 size. Anybody have any sources? No. They don't exist. These threads cannot be cut with taps or dies. See: http://groups.google.com/group/rec.c...b1f31fd158cf14 Google ".75-11.5NH tap die" = 1 hit = Link farm pirating me saying they don't exist. Dr. Kinch, why can't a guy with your capabilities and knowledge be helpful once in a while? The nominal diameter refers to the hose, not the thread. It's in Machinery's Handbook, lookitup under ANSI Standard Hose Coupling Screw Thread, page 1606 in the 23d edition. Nominal OD is 1-1/16", 11-1/2" pitch for 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 hose which is what garden hoses and hose bibs are. I've made many on the lathe, and they're available at Wal-Mart and hardware stores for a coupla bux: buy the fitting, silverbraze to a suitable nipple and Bob's yer uncle. Such threads certainly could be cut with suitable taps and dies, though a bottoming tap might be problematic. I think I've seen taps and dies in the McMaster Carr catalog. Somewhere I have a combination rethreading & seat cleaning gadget. It's probably not hardened to any degree, and I think the rethreading part is designed mostly to remove paint or light dings from faucet threads. The seat cutter is intended to clean up the face of a faucet to improve the washer seat. It works to a degree, but you certainly couldn't cut new threads with it. Doug White |
#8
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 3 Nov 2007 21:26:17 -0800, "desperado"
wrote: I have never seen taps, dies or even rethreading taps and dies to cut garden hose thread, which I believe is 3/4 11 1/2 size. Anybody have any sources?-- don paolino It is 11.5" pitch, but it isn't 3/4" OD on a machined (not rollformed) brass male fitting I have in my hand is 1.049". |
#9
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 03 Nov 2007 23:53:18 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote: desperado writes: I have never seen taps, dies or even rethreading taps and dies to cut garden hose thread, which I believe is 3/4 11 1/2 size. Anybody have any sources? No. They don't exist. These threads cannot be cut with taps or dies. See: http://groups.google.com/group/rec.c...b1f31fd158cf14 Google ".75-11.5NH tap die" = 1 hit = Link farm pirating me saying they don't exist. Dr. Kinch, why can't a guy with your capabilities and knowledge be helpful once in a while? The nominal diameter refers to the hose, not the thread. It's in Machinery's Handbook, lookitup under ANSI Standard Hose Coupling Screw Thread, page 1606 in the 23d edition. Nominal OD is 1-1/16", 11-1/2" pitch for 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 hose which is what garden hoses and hose bibs are. I've made many on the lathe, and they're available at Wal-Mart and hardware stores for a coupla bux: buy the fitting, silverbraze to a suitable nipple and Bob's yer uncle. Such threads certainly could be cut with suitable taps and dies, though a bottoming tap might be problematic. I think I've seen taps and dies in the McMaster Carr catalog. |
#10
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On page 2357 in thier 2007 catalog, under dies, McMaster-Carr says:
" Other die sizes up to 6" OD. Please ask for 26005A999 and specify die OD, die size, right- or left-hand, and threads per inch." |
#11
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Don Foreman writes:
Such threads certainly could be cut with suitable taps and dies, though a bottoming tap might be problematic. Read and understand the standard, instead of just referencing it, and you'll see why no proper tap or die exists. Or read my old post: http://groups.google.com/group/rec.c...b1f31fd158cf14 Dr. Kinch, why can't a guy with your capabilities and knowledge be helpful once in a while? Define "helpful". I've supplied the facts and analysis, which lead to a negative conclusion in answer to a straightforward technical question. It's not "helpful" to be positive about something when the truth is negative. At least in metalworking. I think I've seen taps and dies in the McMaster Carr catalog. Great, why don't you think us up a part number or URL, and I'll eat my hat! |
#12
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 22:38:16 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote: Don Foreman writes: Such threads certainly could be cut with suitable taps and dies, though a bottoming tap might be problematic. Read and understand the standard, instead of just referencing it, and you'll see why no proper tap or die exists. Or read my old post: http://groups.google.com/group/rec.c...b1f31fd158cf14 I did read both the standard and your old post. Saints preserve us, I think I might understand both. Your old post is wrong. The thread is a straightforward thread. I've made such fittings on my lathe. They worked just fine, no different than any other thread. Dr. Kinch, why can't a guy with your capabilities and knowledge be helpful once in a while? Define "helpful". I've supplied the facts and analysis, which lead to a negative conclusion in answer to a straightforward technical question. It's not "helpful" to be positive about something when the truth is negative. At least in metalworking. It is never helpful to be positive when the truth is negative. It is also not helpful to be affirmatively negative when positive exists that the affirmer doesn't know about. Metalworking isn't academia. It's about what fits and works. I think I've seen taps and dies in the McMaster Carr catalog. Great, why don't you think us up a part number or URL, and I'll eat my hat! I said I thought I'd seen. I could have been wrong and/or they may no longer be available. Your hat and ego are both safe. |
#13
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Nov 3, 10:26 pm, "desperado" wrote:
I have never seen taps, dies or even rethreading taps and dies to cut garden hose thread, which I believe is 3/4 11 1/2 size. Anybody have any sources?-- don paolino This looks to me like a forest-and-trees scenario, based on the replies and discussion. There are two different types of this thread; one type is the thread on the end of your hose bibb coming out of the side of your house. This thread is clearly a more-or-less standard V-thread form, and this is the male thread onto which you screw your hose. The second type is the male thread on the end of a length of hose, which is typically a roll-formed thread, unless you have paid for a "high-end" hose like those used in plant nurseries (3/4" id, rubber, "industrial" rating). The fitting on the OTHER end of the hose, the female end, is usually a standard V-thread form, although I have seen some hoses that had a roll-formed insert for the thread (bad, bad idea). The major point is that you can take these fittings and join them at the fittings interchangeably, so the functional fit can be specified as whatever the V-thread form specs actually are. There are indeed hose thread specs in Machinery's Handbook, under ANSI Standard Hose Coupling Screw Threads. I'm sure that there are taps and dies made to produce the V-thread forms, although they probably aren't at your local Ace Hardware. As a secondary point, I highly recommend paying more for a high quality hose that doesn't have those silly roll-formed threads. |
#14
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Don Foreman writes:
Your old post is wrong. The thread is a straightforward thread. I stand by my old post, which lists a few part features in the standard that can't be tapped or die-cut. Let us know when you locate that McMaster item that "may no longer be available". It would be in an old catalog, near the section on perpetual motion parts. |
#15
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Richard J Kinch" wrote in message . .. Don Foreman writes: Your old post is wrong. The thread is a straightforward thread. I stand by my old post, which lists a few part features in the standard that can't be tapped or die-cut. Let us know when you locate that McMaster item that "may no longer be available". It would be in an old catalog, near the section on perpetual motion parts. Are you taking this from the ANSI/ASME B1.20.7-1991 (R2003) spec, Richard? I don't have access to that stuff these days, unfortunately, but is it something in there that leads you to say it can't be tapped or die-cut? -- Ed Huntress |
#16
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Ed Huntress writes:
Are you taking this from the ANSI/ASME B1.20.7-1991 (R2003) spec, Richard? Yes, via MH. I don't have access to that stuff these days, unfortunately, but is it something in there that leads you to say it can't be tapped or die-cut? Yes, as my earlier post stated, the features of the *nipple* (male component) and the *coupling* (female coupling) include not just the thread, but also a pilot, a relief, and a different lead-in thread angle. That's not to say you can't tap or die-cut the .75-11.5 thread itself, but that thread is only one feature of these couplings. The other features require (as standard states) cutting, rolling, or thin-wall forming, not tapping or die-cutting. So a tap or die alone will not do it. |
#17
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Richard J Kinch" wrote in message . .. Ed Huntress writes: Are you taking this from the ANSI/ASME B1.20.7-1991 (R2003) spec, Richard? Yes, via MH. I don't have access to that stuff these days, unfortunately, but is it something in there that leads you to say it can't be tapped or die-cut? Yes, as my earlier post stated, the features of the *nipple* (male component) and the *coupling* (female coupling) include not just the thread, but also a pilot, a relief, and a different lead-in thread angle. That's not to say you can't tap or die-cut the .75-11.5 thread itself, but that thread is only one feature of these couplings. The other features require (as standard states) cutting, rolling, or thin-wall forming, not tapping or die-cutting. So a tap or die alone will not do it. OK, without having the standard here to look at, I can't comment on the necessity of those other features. But I've watched hose bibbs being cut on a dial-index machine and it was just a rough-turn, die-cutting, and facing operation, as I recall. If the hose ends have extra features, do they really matter for someone who wants to make a male fitting to connect to a coupling? -- Ed Huntress |
#18
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Pardon me -
Must my cast bronze solid 1:3 manifold needs rolling ? I've had and have sharp turned (edges are sharp) and have not been rolled. Sheet is rolled and formed. If the thread is rolled like a screw machine. Cutting means either tap and die or automated (or manual ) machine cut threads. I served for many years on several Standards groups. I/O spec, devices, and modules. Then protocol and systems. A spec often is so inclusive that it has a label as the spec. Have you seen the curving trident spear ? Oh - USB plug / socket. Specs might be so complex it takes mechanical, electrical, electronic, and others to write a single spec. Not every use of that spec needs to use part of all of it, but it is the basis for need. Parts of specs are most useful. USB in bulkheads was one thing, the most confused part was the square and rectangular plugs/sockets. Not all agreed on how they are used even though they are defined. [ ANSI/JEDEC & IEEE ] Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Richard J Kinch wrote: Ed Huntress writes: Are you taking this from the ANSI/ASME B1.20.7-1991 (R2003) spec, Richard? Yes, via MH. I don't have access to that stuff these days, unfortunately, but is it something in there that leads you to say it can't be tapped or die-cut? Yes, as my earlier post stated, the features of the *nipple* (male component) and the *coupling* (female coupling) include not just the thread, but also a pilot, a relief, and a different lead-in thread angle. That's not to say you can't tap or die-cut the .75-11.5 thread itself, but that thread is only one feature of these couplings. The other features require (as standard states) cutting, rolling, or thin-wall forming, not tapping or die-cutting. So a tap or die alone will not do it. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#19
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 19:58:59 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote: Ed Huntress writes: Are you taking this from the ANSI/ASME B1.20.7-1991 (R2003) spec, Richard? Yes, via MH. I don't have access to that stuff these days, unfortunately, but is it something in there that leads you to say it can't be tapped or die-cut? Yes, as my earlier post stated, the features of the *nipple* (male component) and the *coupling* (female coupling) include not just the thread, but also a pilot, a relief, and a different lead-in thread angle. That's not to say you can't tap or die-cut the .75-11.5 thread itself, but that thread is only one feature of these couplings. The other features require (as standard states) cutting, rolling, or thin-wall forming, not tapping or die-cutting. So a tap or die alone will not do it. That's true. Your earlier post was not wrong, sorry 'bout that. The tap and die I saw were the right thread, but they don't make those other features. Those features, if they're really necessary for the application, would have to be made on the lathe that also makes the male "blank" of 1.0455 to 1.0625 OD, ditto for the appropriate blank for the coupling. |
#20
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 08:08:16 -0800, matt
wrote: On Nov 3, 10:26 pm, "desperado" wrote: I have never seen taps, dies or even rethreading taps and dies to cut garden hose thread, which I believe is 3/4 11 1/2 size. Anybody have any sources?-- don paolino This looks to me like a forest-and-trees scenario, based on the replies and discussion. There are two different types of this thread; one type is the thread on the end of your hose bibb coming out of the side of your house. This thread is clearly a more-or-less standard V-thread form, and this is the male thread onto which you screw your hose. The second type is the male thread on the end of a length of hose, which is typically a roll-formed thread, unless you have paid for a "high-end" hose like those used in plant nurseries (3/4" id, rubber, "industrial" rating). The fitting on the OTHER end of the hose, the female end, is usually a standard V-thread form, although I have seen some hoses that had a roll-formed insert for the thread (bad, bad idea). The major point is that you can take these fittings and join them at the fittings interchangeably, so the functional fit can be specified as whatever the V-thread form specs actually are. There are indeed hose thread specs in Machinery's Handbook, under ANSI Standard Hose Coupling Screw Threads. I'm sure that there are taps and dies made to produce the V-thread forms, although they probably aren't at your local Ace Hardware. Richard Kinch says they're probably near the catalog section for perpetual motion parts. Unfortunately, that section seems to be missing from my catalog. As a secondary point, I highly recommend paying more for a high quality hose that doesn't have those silly roll-formed threads. I've bought machine-cut brass couplings at Wal-Mart and at the local good hardware store. They also have octagon wrench flats behind them. There's enough brass there to easily silver-braze to something else if desired. One example is Orbit SunMate Pro model 58113 for 5/8" hose. Example: http://tinyurl.com/2ywfwn These are cut threads, not rolled. They're a lot cheaper at Wally's when they have 'em. |
#21
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Ed Huntress writes:
OK, without having the standard here to look at, I can't comment on the necessity of those other features. But I've watched hose bibbs being cut on a dial-index machine and it was just a rough-turn, die-cutting, and facing operation, as I recall. If the hose ends have extra features, do they really matter for someone who wants to make a male fitting to connect to a coupling? It looks to me like you can omit the pilot and the thread-start lead-in angle, and just cut the straight threads, as long as at least 9/16" of threads are fully cut and/or relieved. This will be harder to assemble and prone to cross-threading, compared to the standard part, but it will work. Indeed, looking in my drawer of garden-hose parts, I see that lots of adapters, repair couplings, quick-connects, etc. are quite non- standard this way. The female coupling does need relief, however, because the untapped minor diameter is not going to let a nipple bottom out against the gasket. If somebody wants to make a male fitting with a .75-11.5NH die, you'll still need a way to produce the major diameter of 1.0455 to 1.0625. Schedule 40 3/4" pipe happens to have such an OD, but the ID is too big for the standard nipple ID, so you've weakened the pipe by about halving the wall thickness (unlike a tapered thread). But yeah, you can simply tap and face 3/4" pipe this way, and it will sort of work, although it isn't standard. |
#22
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 22:33:48 -0600, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote: Pardon me - Must my cast bronze solid 1:3 manifold needs rolling ? I've had and have sharp turned (edges are sharp) and have not been rolled. Sheet is rolled and formed. If the thread is rolled like a screw machine. Cutting means either tap and die or automated (or manual ) machine cut threads. I served for many years on several Standards groups. I/O spec, devices, and modules. Then protocol and systems. A spec often is so inclusive that it has a label as the spec. Have you seen the curving trident spear ? Oh - USB plug / socket. Specs might be so complex it takes mechanical, electrical, electronic, and others to write a single spec. Not every use of that spec needs to use part of all of it, but it is the basis for need. Parts of specs are most useful. USB in bulkheads was one thing, the most confused part was the square and rectangular plugs/sockets. Not all agreed on how they are used even though they are defined. [ ANSI/JEDEC & IEEE ] I hope the ANSI cops don't come to inspect my garden hose fittings. If they do, I'll refer them to Her Gentleness, since its her garden. Then I'd just enjoy the show... G |
#23
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
ANSI cops won't - just don't sell the house bud :-)
No it isn't like making a working 50 cal rifle in the shop. But a buyer might get you in a mass market :-) Martin (out of them meeting after meeting groups). Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Don Foreman wrote: On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 22:33:48 -0600, "Martin H. Eastburn" wrote: Pardon me - Must my cast bronze solid 1:3 manifold needs rolling ? I've had and have sharp turned (edges are sharp) and have not been rolled. Sheet is rolled and formed. If the thread is rolled like a screw machine. Cutting means either tap and die or automated (or manual ) machine cut threads. I served for many years on several Standards groups. I/O spec, devices, and modules. Then protocol and systems. A spec often is so inclusive that it has a label as the spec. Have you seen the curving trident spear ? Oh - USB plug / socket. Specs might be so complex it takes mechanical, electrical, electronic, and others to write a single spec. Not every use of that spec needs to use part of all of it, but it is the basis for need. Parts of specs are most useful. USB in bulkheads was one thing, the most confused part was the square and rectangular plugs/sockets. Not all agreed on how they are used even though they are defined. [ ANSI/JEDEC & IEEE ] I hope the ANSI cops don't come to inspect my garden hose fittings. If they do, I'll refer them to Her Gentleness, since its her garden. Then I'd just enjoy the show... G ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#24
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Nov 5, 8:58 pm, Richard J Kinch wrote:
Ed Huntress writes: Are you taking this from the ANSI/ASME B1.20.7-1991 (R2003) spec, Richard? Yes, via MH. I don't have access to that stuff these days, unfortunately, but is it something in there that leads you to say it can't be tapped or die-cut? Yes, as my earlier post stated, the features of the *nipple* (male component) and the *coupling* (female coupling) include not just the thread, but also a pilot, a relief, and a different lead-in thread angle. That's not to say you can't tap or die-cut the .75-11.5 thread itself, but that thread is only one feature of these couplings. The other features require (as standard states) cutting, rolling, or thin-wall forming, not tapping or die-cutting. So a tap or die alone will not do it. If something can be threaded onto anything then a die can be made which will cut that thread. Just because a die is not readily available does not mean that one could not be used. You are wrong! A tap or die alone WILL suffice to make a usable thread. |
#25
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Don: It appears that posing a question on this news group can sometimes be
somewhat like going to a fire hydrant to get a drink of water. "desperado" wrote in message .. . I have never seen taps, dies or even rethreading taps and dies to cut garden hose thread, which I believe is 3/4 11 1/2 size. Anybody have any sources?-- don paolino |
#26
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 7 Nov 2007 00:08:50 -0800, sparky wrote:
On Nov 5, 8:58 pm, Richard J Kinch wrote: Ed Huntress writes: Are you taking this from the ANSI/ASME B1.20.7-1991 (R2003) spec, Richard? Yes, via MH. I don't have access to that stuff these days, unfortunately, but is it something in there that leads you to say it can't be tapped or die-cut? Yes, as my earlier post stated, the features of the *nipple* (male component) and the *coupling* (female coupling) include not just the thread, but also a pilot, a relief, and a different lead-in thread angle. That's not to say you can't tap or die-cut the .75-11.5 thread itself, but that thread is only one feature of these couplings. The other features require (as standard states) cutting, rolling, or thin-wall forming, not tapping or die-cutting. So a tap or die alone will not do it. If something can be threaded onto anything then a die can be made which will cut that thread. Just because a die is not readily available does not mean that one could not be used. You are wrong! A tap or die alone WILL suffice to make a usable thread. It will indeed. The ANSI spec that Richard refers to includes some features of hose couplings beyond the threads, as in the blanks that one might thread with a tap or die. In general terms, these features provide a place for the washer to go in the female coupling, and some lead in chamfer to make them easy to assemble. The original question was indeed about cutting threads! |
#27
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 7 Nov 2007 08:53:17 -0800, "Stuart & Kathryn Fields"
wrote: Don: It appears that posing a question on this news group can sometimes be somewhat like going to a fire hydrant to get a drink of water. Yup. Like asking what time it is and getting the history of horology. You might even find out what time it is (or was) if yer lucky. Makes it interesting! |
#28
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Don Foreman writes:
The original question was indeed about cutting threads! "Threads" is an ambiguous term. There is a basic thread form, and then there is an application of that abstract form to a part, with pilot, lead- in, thread starts, relief, etc., that are also elements of a usable "thread". Beware the definitional retreat. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Taps - the thread cutting kind | UK diy | |||
Custom taps and dies | Metalworking | |||
Where Sales 27mm x 1mm, left hand thread taps? | Metalworking | |||
Small taps and dies | Metalworking | |||
taps: dies and rethreading dies | Metalworking |