Glenn - contact white post restorations, they offer a brake cylinder
sleeving service to the old car restoration hobby - I've used them for
work on my 51 dodge - you mail them the stuff, they sleeve it and send
it back -

there are other services that specialize in sleeving Corvette calipers
especially - quite a few of them can be found in Hemmings motor news -
I have not personally used any of those.

you are having rust problems because brake fluid is hydroscopic and
absorbs water. to avoid this, change your brake fluid every year, or
every other year. If you do this, you will have no corrosion and your
brake hydraulic stuff will last almost forever. Alternatively, if you
are careful, you can use DOT 5 fluid, which is hydrophobic, but you
have to be careful to not entrap air bubbles as you pour it into the
master cylinder. I have used DOT 5 in several cars, in some it leaked
out (because it does't cause seals to swell like the glycol fluid), in
others it was OK. your vette will probably be OK.

extensive tests have been done with DOT 5
Bill

www.wbnoble.com

to contact me, do not reply to this message,
instead correct this address and use it

will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***

William B Noble (don't reply to this address) wrote in
article ...


you are having rust problems because brake fluid is hydroscopic


"Hydroscopic" refers to a hydroscope - an optical device used for viewing
objects below the water's surface.

Correct term is hyGroscopic.....absorbing or attracting moisture from the
air.

Common error...........


Alternatively, if you
are careful, you can use DOT 5 fluid, which is hydrophobic,

Meaning it does NOT absorb moisture. Having litrtle or no affinity for
water.

Therefore, any moisture in the system is NOT suspended in the fluid. It
goes, instead, to the lowest point usually the calipers and wheel
cylinders.

ALL braking systems have moisture in them.......

And, water is heavier than any brake fluid......



but you
have to be careful to not entrap air bubbles as you pour it into the
master cylinder.

I've seen anal-types pour DOT 5 ever so slowly into the M.C., then pump the
schidt out of it to bleed the brakes........

AND, you NEVER want to use DOT 5 with ABS........EVER!!!! ......for the
very same aeration reasons.


extensive tests have been done with DOT 5

......which concur with what I stated above.



REAL race cars are now using DOT 5.1 - drivers, crew chiefs, and teams
being fed up with spongy pedals and losing brakes when tiny pockets of
water in the calipers turn to compressable steam from brake heat.

Thanks Bill,
There are many well known sources for sleeved cylinders. I want to do it
myself
I did find out that I can get the dual Master cylinder at normal supply
houses. A 67 Camaro Drum/Drum power brake cylinder is a direct replacement
with the proper valves for drum brakes. Disk master cylinders have no
valves to hold the fluid from going back into the resivoir.

Glenn
"William B Noble (don't reply to this address)" wrote
in message ...
Glenn - contact white post restorations, they offer a brake cylinder
sleeving service to the old car restoration hobby - I've used them for
work on my 51 dodge - you mail them the stuff, they sleeve it and send
it back -

there are other services that specialize in sleeving Corvette calipers
especially - quite a few of them can be found in Hemmings motor news -
I have not personally used any of those.

you are having rust problems because brake fluid is hydroscopic and
absorbs water. to avoid this, change your brake fluid every year, or
every other year. If you do this, you will have no corrosion and your
brake hydraulic stuff will last almost forever. Alternatively, if you
are careful, you can use DOT 5 fluid, which is hydrophobic, but you
have to be careful to not entrap air bubbles as you pour it into the
master cylinder. I have used DOT 5 in several cars, in some it leaked
out (because it does't cause seals to swell like the glycol fluid), in
others it was OK. your vette will probably be OK.

extensive tests have been done with DOT 5
Bill

www.wbnoble.com

to contact me, do not reply to this message,
instead correct this address and use it

will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***

A couple of tips:

Sleeving should be done with stainless steel. If it is being done
with brass, find another shop.

The best sleeving I've seen entails putting a thread inside the
cylinder, with a matching thread on the outside of the sleeve. The
sleeve is then screwed into the cylinder (with appropriate goop).
Such a sleeve will not move, and will not leak. Takes a machinist who
care to do it, though.

I recommend Autosport Seattle, 2121 Westlake Ave., Seattle 98121
(206.621.1940), http://www.autosportseattle.com/. Their sleeving is
fantastic.

Eelloin



On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 22:37:02 -0700, "William B Noble (don't reply to
this address)" wrote:

Glenn - contact white post restorations, they offer a brake cylinder
sleeving service to the old car restoration hobby - I've used them for
work on my 51 dodge - you mail them the stuff, they sleeve it and send
it back -

there are other services that specialize in sleeving Corvette calipers
especially - quite a few of them can be found in Hemmings motor news -
I have not personally used any of those.

you are having rust problems because brake fluid is hydroscopic and
absorbs water. to avoid this, change your brake fluid every year, or
every other year. If you do this, you will have no corrosion and your
brake hydraulic stuff will last almost forever. Alternatively, if you
are careful, you can use DOT 5 fluid, which is hydrophobic, but you
have to be careful to not entrap air bubbles as you pour it into the
master cylinder. I have used DOT 5 in several cars, in some it leaked
out (because it does't cause seals to swell like the glycol fluid), in
others it was OK. your vette will probably be OK.

extensive tests have been done with DOT 5
Bill

www.wbnoble.com

to contact me, do not reply to this message,
instead correct this address and use it

will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***

There has been quite a discussion on SS versus brass for sleeving. If
you want to pursue this, suggest you contact White Post directly. I
am very happy with the brass sleeved cylinders. Perhaps the
difference is racing (e.g. the autosport site) versus classic car
restoration - I have no opinion to offer RE racing applications, nor
sadly do I recall the gist of the pro/con arguements - suffice it to
say that at the time (a decade ago?) I was convinced that for my
purposes brass was the proper solution.


On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 06:55:36 -0700, Eel Loin
wrote:


A couple of tips:

Sleeving should be done with stainless steel. If it is being done
with brass, find another shop.

The best sleeving I've seen entails putting a thread inside the
cylinder, with a matching thread on the outside of the sleeve. The
sleeve is then screwed into the cylinder (with appropriate goop).
Such a sleeve will not move, and will not leak. Takes a machinist who
care to do it, though.

I recommend Autosport Seattle, 2121 Westlake Ave., Seattle 98121
(206.621.1940), http://www.autosportseattle.com/. Their sleeving is
fantastic.

Eelloin



On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 22:37:02 -0700, "William B Noble (don't reply to
this address)" wrote:

Glenn - contact white post restorations, they offer a brake cylinder
sleeving service to the old car restoration hobby - I've used them for
work on my 51 dodge - you mail them the stuff, they sleeve it and send
it back -

there are other services that specialize in sleeving Corvette calipers
especially - quite a few of them can be found in Hemmings motor news -
I have not personally used any of those.

you are having rust problems because brake fluid is hydroscopic and
absorbs water. to avoid this, change your brake fluid every year, or
every other year. If you do this, you will have no corrosion and your
brake hydraulic stuff will last almost forever. Alternatively, if you
are careful, you can use DOT 5 fluid, which is hydrophobic, but you
have to be careful to not entrap air bubbles as you pour it into the
master cylinder. I have used DOT 5 in several cars, in some it leaked
out (because it does't cause seals to swell like the glycol fluid), in
others it was OK. your vette will probably be OK.

extensive tests have been done with DOT 5
Bill

www.wbnoble.com

to contact me, do not reply to this message,
instead correct this address and use it

will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
Bill

www.wbnoble.com

to contact me, do not reply to this message,
instead correct this address and use it

will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***

On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 17:51:15 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

I had some like problems with old Volvos. Water would get in somehow,
over time. My solution was to periodically flush the entire brake
system with brand new fluid, thus getting rid of all water and dirt that
had somehow gotten in.

Moisture comes in primarily through the flexible hoses and the vent on
the top of the master cylinder. The best solution is not DOT 5
Silicone which just masks the problem, allowing water droplet pooling
in the calipers, compressibility and ultimately causing more problems
that it claims to solve. The best solution is that adopted on some
modern vehicles especially from those manufacturers not obsessed with
zero maintenance for 100,000 miles and all the other crap - moisture
testing in the master cylinder reservoir at every service and/or
regular fluid changes.

Changing the fluid every year and using DOT 4 will suffice for the
majority of applications. Carried out with a pressure bleeder it
takes half an hour at most, I know some people that have spent many
more hours than that on attempting to solve the problems created by
the use of the "superior" silicone fluid.


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