Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Tom Gardner
 
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Default Welded cylinder mounting

I would like to use this cylinder:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...name=hydraulic
for an operation similar to an "H" frame arbor press. I bought a Northern
Equip. 20 to press for the basic. The top has a 5/8" thick plate welded to
a 1/8" x 6" x 2-1/2" "C" channel. I want to mount the nose of the cylinder
into the plate so the body of the cylinder is above the press with the rod
pointing down. One thought I had was to hole saw the plate/channel, weld a
steel donut onto the cylinder and insert the cylinder into the sawn hole and
make a split clamppy kind of thing clamped above the channel on the
cylinder. Can I safely weld something to the cylinder if I promise to
stitch it and cool it in stages? The cylinder will need to only put-out
1,000 lbs or less. Maybe I could get away with split collars on both sides?
How much pressure would they take before the cylinder pushed out? Thanks
for your synapses!


  #2   Report Post  
Ned Simmons
 
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In article %J1Ud.36810$by5.13574
@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com, "Tom Gardner" tom(nospam)
@ohiobrush.com says...
I would like to use this cylinder:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...name=hydraulic
for an operation similar to an "H" frame arbor press. I bought a Northern
Equip. 20 to press for the basic. The top has a 5/8" thick plate welded to
a 1/8" x 6" x 2-1/2" "C" channel. I want to mount the nose of the cylinder
into the plate so the body of the cylinder is above the press with the rod
pointing down. One thought I had was to hole saw the plate/channel, weld a
steel donut onto the cylinder and insert the cylinder into the sawn hole and
make a split clamppy kind of thing clamped above the channel on the
cylinder. Can I safely weld something to the cylinder if I promise to
stitch it and cool it in stages? The cylinder will need to only put-out
1,000 lbs or less. Maybe I could get away with split collars on both sides?
How much pressure would they take before the cylinder pushed out? Thanks
for your synapses!




I like the split clamp idea. Buy a split shaft collar from
McMaster ($12 for a 2-1/4", for example) and drill a few
holes in it to fasten it to the top plate of the press.
Ruland says it'll slip at an axial load of 8000# on a soft
shaft if you torque the clamp screw to 325 in-lbs.

Avoid clamping on the tube anyplace the piston passes.

Welding near the nose would probably be OK if you
disassemble the cylinder first.

Ned Simmons
  #3   Report Post  
Tom Gardner
 
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"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
In article %J1Ud.36810$by5.13574
@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com, "Tom Gardner" tom(nospam)
@ohiobrush.com says...
I would like to use this cylinder:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...name=hydraulic
for an operation similar to an "H" frame arbor press. I bought a
Northern
Equip. 20 to press for the basic. The top has a 5/8" thick plate welded
to
a 1/8" x 6" x 2-1/2" "C" channel. I want to mount the nose of the
cylinder
into the plate so the body of the cylinder is above the press with the
rod
pointing down. One thought I had was to hole saw the plate/channel, weld
a
steel donut onto the cylinder and insert the cylinder into the sawn hole
and
make a split clamppy kind of thing clamped above the channel on the
cylinder. Can I safely weld something to the cylinder if I promise to
stitch it and cool it in stages? The cylinder will need to only put-out
1,000 lbs or less. Maybe I could get away with split collars on both
sides?
How much pressure would they take before the cylinder pushed out? Thanks
for your synapses!




I like the split clamp idea. Buy a split shaft collar from
McMaster ($12 for a 2-1/4", for example) and drill a few
holes in it to fasten it to the top plate of the press.
Ruland says it'll slip at an axial load of 8000# on a soft
shaft if you torque the clamp screw to 325 in-lbs.

Avoid clamping on the tube anyplace the piston passes.

Welding near the nose would probably be OK if you
disassemble the cylinder first.

Ned Simmons


That's just it, the cylinder is welded shut so it can't come apart, but you
point out that a collar will take 8,000 lbs. That's GREAT, no weld needed!


  #4   Report Post  
Wayne Cook
 
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Default

On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 17:15:52 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:


That's just it, the cylinder is welded shut so it can't come apart, but you
point out that a collar will take 8,000 lbs. That's GREAT, no weld needed!


I've never seen a cylinder welded shut. They all come apart on the
rod end in one fashion or another. Based on the rather lousy pic I'd
say this one has a screw end gland on the rod end.

Personally in your situation I'd make a split clamp for the bottom
but not expect it to hold all the push. Then just run two pieces of
strap up each side of the cylinder. Weld the straps to the top plate
of the press and pin them in the end of the cylinder. That way the
spit clamp just has to hold the cylinder steady. The problem I see
with clamping is that it could crush the tube enough to cause problems
depending on how the end gland is constructed.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook
  #5   Report Post  
Wayne Cook
 
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On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 13:56:26 -0500, "Shawn" shawn_75ATcomcastDOTnet
wrote:


"Wayne Cook" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 17:15:52 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:


That's just it, the cylinder is welded shut so it can't come apart, but

you
point out that a collar will take 8,000 lbs. That's GREAT, no weld

needed!


I've never seen a cylinder welded shut. They all come apart on the
rod end in one fashion or another. Based on the rather lousy pic I'd
say this one has a screw end gland on the rod end.


John Deere uses unservicable welded hydraulic cylinders on its' compact
tractor line of attachments. Our front mount broom and the belly mount
mower both use them.


Hmm. I'll have to look at the ones I've got. Ok I went and looked.
They are welded on both ends. But those are definitely a rarity in
hydraulic cylinders.


However I've seen a lot of cylinders that looked like they couldn't
come apart but actually did if you know the trick. I rebuild cylinders
fairly regularly and I've seen a number of unusual schemes used to
hold the rod end gland in place.
Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook


  #6   Report Post  
Shawn
 
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Default


"Wayne Cook" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 17:15:52 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:


That's just it, the cylinder is welded shut so it can't come apart, but

you
point out that a collar will take 8,000 lbs. That's GREAT, no weld

needed!


I've never seen a cylinder welded shut. They all come apart on the
rod end in one fashion or another. Based on the rather lousy pic I'd
say this one has a screw end gland on the rod end.


John Deere uses unservicable welded hydraulic cylinders on its' compact
tractor line of attachments. Our front mount broom and the belly mount
mower both use them.

Shawn


  #7   Report Post  
Tom Gardner
 
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Default

I've cut them open on a lathe, installed new guts and welded them up again.
They're not as uncommon as you think, they're usually cheap...my realm!


"Wayne Cook" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 13:56:26 -0500, "Shawn" shawn_75ATcomcastDOTnet
wrote:


"Wayne Cook" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 17:15:52 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:


That's just it, the cylinder is welded shut so it can't come apart, but

you
point out that a collar will take 8,000 lbs. That's GREAT, no weld

needed!


I've never seen a cylinder welded shut. They all come apart on the
rod end in one fashion or another. Based on the rather lousy pic I'd
say this one has a screw end gland on the rod end.


John Deere uses unservicable welded hydraulic cylinders on its' compact
tractor line of attachments. Our front mount broom and the belly mount
mower both use them.


Hmm. I'll have to look at the ones I've got. Ok I went and looked.
They are welded on both ends. But those are definitely a rarity in
hydraulic cylinders.


However I've seen a lot of cylinders that looked like they couldn't
come apart but actually did if you know the trick. I rebuild cylinders
fairly regularly and I've seen a number of unusual schemes used to
hold the rod end gland in place.
Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook



  #8   Report Post  
Wayne Cook
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 23:34:09 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

I've cut them open on a lathe, installed new guts and welded them up again.
They're not as uncommon as you think, they're usually cheap...my realm!


Ok. I've just not run across them much.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook
  #9   Report Post  
Tom Gardner
 
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Default

Thanks for your thoughts! Amazing amount of think power in RCM, all you
guys and girls have pulled my bacon from the flames more than a few times.
I have a tendency to need some anchor in reality with some of my ideas.
Sometimes my mojo actually works! This is a very interesting project, it
will duplicate the processes of a $250,000 German machine for making wire
wheel brushes. It will only do 1/4 of the production but will only cost
$2,500 cash and about 100 man-hours. And that's using all new store-bought
stuff! I'm just starting to build the first finished machine but have
already built the test-bed machine to test the theories and
physics...everything works!


"Wayne Cook" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 23:34:09 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

I've cut them open on a lathe, installed new guts and welded them up
again.
They're not as uncommon as you think, they're usually cheap...my realm!


Ok. I've just not run across them much.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook



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