Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Proctologically Violated©®
 
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Default Roll-in vs. DoAll 16" ML band saws

Awl--

Some of you responded to earlier queries about the 16" DoAll.
Two are available now, asking $1250, both look in good shape, one newer than
the other--one is 45xxxx, the other 46xxxx serial number.
Most of the bells/whistles--hanging weight/feed, multiple table guides,
blade welder, little oiler on the blade guide (!), blower, variable speed,
etc.
The slightly older one has a transformer, the newer one does not. Iny ideas
on the purpose of this transformer? I don't think it's for the blade
welder, which has its own built in xformer.

The Roll-in is a pretty neat item, also asking $1250.
For those not familiar with it, picture your $199 4x6 jobby in the vertical
position, make the table about 20x24"--iow, a vertical band saw w/ a twisted
blade, so you can cut any length mat'l.
Now imagine the blade being able to move back and forth in/out of the table.
You can then *fix* material to the table, and the blade rolls into the work.
It's like having your 4x6 jobby upright, on wheels, sliding back and forth
into work held on a separate table.
Of course, you can use it as a regular vertical band saw

And, the whole saw is on wheels, as well. Really an interesting saw, has
about the same capacity as the DoAll--not as tall (table is considerably
lower than the DoAll),or nearly as heavy, but it has a bigger footprint than
the DoAll.
4 speed, roller guides, which are grooved to accept the kerf and a variety
of blades, 1/2" and 3/4" for sure. I'm not sure if the table tilts.Also
single phase, DoAll is 3 ph.

The DoAll, however, has some available attachments, really wild, that some
of you may not know about.
1. You can twist the blade 45 OR 90 degrees!! Which makes it now sort of
like the Roll-in, and with extra pulleys, probably could get the weight to
do feed in the material at these angles also.
2. Blade *sanding* AND *filing* attachment. Saw a file blade, but not in
action--a blade w/ *dozens* of sections of 3" length files attached!! .

The Roll-in, in a small shop, seems over-all more manageable, but the DoAll
has more bells/whistles, variable speed, etc. But, the Roll-in is *much*
simpler, lighter, albeit w/ a bigger foot-print.

Also, keep in mind I have a big-assed Kalamazoo automatic hydraulic cut-off
saw (and the 4x6 jobby), so the feed capability of either band saw is not
critical.

What would you all do, and why?
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll


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Karl Townsend
 
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Default Roll-in vs. DoAll 16" ML band saws

I have both a 12" DoAll like you describe and a roll-in unit. The roll-in is
EXTERMELY handy. You won't know how you lived without it. Especially sence
you already have a heavy duty saw. The only downside of the roll-in is that
it cuts much slower than a horizontal saw. Normally not an issue for me, as
I find something else to do while the saw works.

These saws don't come with coolant. I added a small perestallic pump to
squirt coolant - no drip pan. Makes the blades last much longer.

Karl




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Default Roll-in vs. DoAll 16" ML band saws



"Karl Townsend" remove .NOT wrote in
message news.com...
I have both a 12" DoAll like you describe and a roll-in unit. The roll-in
is EXTERMELY handy. You won't know how you lived without it. Especially
sence you already have a heavy duty saw. The only downside of the roll-in
is that it cuts much slower than a horizontal saw. Normally not an issue
for me, as I find something else to do while the saw works.


Well, since I already have the Kalamazoo, I wouldn't care that the Roll-in
cuts slower.
I'd be more interested in your impressions on the Rollin vs. the Doall as
vertical band saws.
Do you find yourself switching from 3/4 to 1/2 blades at all, say, for
curvy-er work?

How do the prices sound?


These saws don't come with coolant. I added a small perestallic pump to
squirt coolant - no drip pan. Makes the blades last much longer.


Why a peristaltic pump instead of a mini-giant centrifugal?

And, I always wondered about coolant on a band saw blade, since they don't
seem to get at all hot to begin with, even right at the cut--except for
mebbe SS. With my little Shaviv deburring tool, I can see whiffs of smoke
when deburring stainless!!
But, the Kalamazoo goes through some lengths to get plenty of coolant to the
blade (1" x 130.5"), so it must be important. Would like to kluge up a
coolant ditty/sump on my 4x6, as well.
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll


Karl






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Karl Townsend
 
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Default Roll-in vs. DoAll 16" ML band saws


I'd be more interested in your impressions on the Rollin vs. the Doall as
vertical band saws.

My DoAll is horizontal only. 1" blade - total bitch to change. But its a
REAL FAST saw. Great for repetitive cuts in large stock.

Do you find yourself switching from 3/4 to 1/2 blades at all, say, for
curvy-er work?


I change blades constantly on the roll-in. Only takes a second. 1/4,1/2, and
3/4. Plus fine tooth 3/4 for thin stock. One of its big advantages.

How do the prices sound?

I dunno. I stole mine at auction - $400

Why a peristaltic pump instead of a mini-giant centrifugal?


That would work, but you'll need a drip pan and have coolant all over you
whenever you cut a piece by hand. Close to half my cuts are in this
category. I set my pump to just barely give a constant stream like if you'd
squeeze a squirt bottle. Coolant certainly helps, but you don't need to
flood the heck out of it, not that much heat.

Karl


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