Hey good people,
this is a rhetorical question, so will probably figure it out meself
(in time).....Inspired by the Silver Tongues of this group, I went and
bought a 9 by 20 Chinese lathe. (And a milling machine).

OK - the courier literally dropped it off the back of his truck, on top
of the box the mill is in. Got it onto one of my TV service trolleys,
(with help from my 10yo grandaughter) took off the wood , dragged it,
cursing and swearing, into the workshop. (A 8ft crowbar helped get it
over a few obstacles). Cleaned it up, turned it on, it works. Its
noisy, but adjusting the gear clearances and lubricating it quietened
it down. Now - the chip tray is not on the bottom, the lathe is still
bolted to the wooden crate it came on. I need to get the thing UP onto
the bench, and bolt it down.

Question - how do I do this, and get the chip tray on, without killing
myself. It weighs 95Kg, and I cant lift it up, slide the tray onto the
mounting bolts, and tighten it up. Tomorrow, I will purchase a sheet of
1 inch MDF as a base, countersink the bottom, and set up the mounting
bolts. (My radio workbenches are NOT designed to hold anything this big
and heavy).

How do I manouvre(sp) it up, onto the bench, line it up with the
mounting bolts, and get it down onto the mounting bolts. Without
killing myself, or needing to take yet another trip to the Chiropractor
to fix my back. (Again).

I dont have an engine lift, and cant borrow one. My friends are mainly
past their prime, so I am reluctant to ask for help - dont want them
killing themselves either. I cant rig a block and tackle - the ceiling
is plasterboard under a tin roof, so would collapse.

Any ideas folks. Its got other things I need to adjust up, but my newly
purchased school textbook on Fitting and Maching will hopefully have
how to do this.

Help......

Andrew VK3BFA.

"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...
Question - how do I do this, and get the chip tray on, without killing
myself. It weighs 95Kg, and I cant lift it up, slide the tray onto the
mounting bolts, and tighten it up. Tomorrow, I will purchase a sheet of
1 inch MDF as a base, countersink the bottom, and set up the mounting
bolts. (My radio workbenches are NOT designed to hold anything this big
and heavy).

How do I manouvre(sp) it up, onto the bench, line it up with the
mounting bolts, and get it down onto the mounting bolts. Without
killing myself, or needing to take yet another trip to the Chiropractor
to fix my back. (Again).

I dont have an engine lift, and cant borrow one. My friends are mainly
Andrew VK3BFA.


..... .. .... .. -.. . .-- .- ....- --.. . --.

It's _only_ 210lb? Even a fairly poorly built ceiling should handle that
with a couple of cross-braces spanning two or more trusses(rafters).

If you _really_can't_ borrow or rent an engine hoist, use a block and
tackle.

That's a really light lathe, and shouldn't be a bad job getting it up.

The MDF isn't a great idea, though. Although MDF has a fairly stable
surface layer, it's not stable dimensionally in changing humidity, and will
rack your equipment out of true and level with every change of climate. If
I had to use wood for the top, I'd choose a more stable wood, like VERY fat
yellow pine. But wood isn't a great choice.

LLoyd

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...


It's _only_ 210lb? Even a fairly poorly built ceiling should handle that
with a couple of cross-braces spanning two or more trusses(rafters).

If you _really_can't_ borrow or rent an engine hoist, use a block and
tackle.

That's a really light lathe, and shouldn't be a bad job getting it up.

The MDF isn't a great idea, though. Although MDF has a fairly stable
surface layer, it's not stable dimensionally in changing humidity, and will
rack your equipment out of true and level with every change of climate. If
I had to use wood for the top, I'd choose a more stable wood, like VERY fat
yellow pine. But wood isn't a great choice.

LLoyd

Lloyd, your correct, except to me, its not light. I spent 20 years as a
lineman and then a TV tech, lifting awkward, heavy weights. My back is
stuffed - if it goes out again, I dont work and dont earn (self
employed - no compo) - and if it goes out badly, I dont want to see a
surgeon - have seen too many people who are STUFFED even with
"successful" surgery. . The roof is tin, with plasterboard holding up
the insulation. MDF - if sealed, its pretty ok - and besides, I dont
think its going to warp a cast iron bed (Could be wrong, please correct
me if I am).

But youve given me food for thought - thank you - if all else fails, I
will hire an engine hoist....

Andrew VK3BFA.

Rent an engine hoist or go to your favorite bar and buy a few rounds to
recruit some young bucks. A couple of them can do it in a trice, or
maybe a thrice.
Bugs

In article .com,
"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote:

But youve given me food for thought - thank you - if all else fails, I
will hire an engine hoist....

Don't wait for all else to fail - while failing, it can cause other
expensive and/or painful results/effects. Either buy a cheap one, or
rent/hire one for the day if that's going to be the best way to get this
done without damaging yourself.

As for the MDF, you'd be surprised how much cast iron can move, when you
care about small movements. In order for a lathe to cut true, it needs
to be shimmed so the bed is straight. The easiest way to achieve that is
for the bed to be level, to a very precise degree. You can do bulk metal
removal on a lathe with a twisted bed, and lots of people do, but it
inherently limits the precision of the result you can achieve. Ideally,
you want a base for the lathe that will not move, so that when you level
the lathe, it says put. (exceptions for fancy Hardinge lathes that have
special mountings allowing the base to sit any which way, that are about
as far from Chinese 9x20's as you can get...)

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

I'd just call around to the local high school or trade school, ask the
receptionist for someone who could reccommend a couple of sturdy
characters to come over and help you. At a trade school, the students
might think it is fun to help and to see what the old codgers are doing.

I know students at the local college, it's easy to get volenteers to put
up sheetrock (!!!) during school breaks. They are so happy to do
something other than hit the books.

Andrew VK3BFA wrote:
Hey good people,
this is a rhetorical question, so will probably figure it out meself
(in time).....Inspired by the Silver Tongues of this group, I went and
bought a 9 by 20 Chinese lathe. (And a milling machine).

OK - the courier literally dropped it off the back of his truck, on top
of the box the mill is in. Got it onto one of my TV service trolleys,
(with help from my 10yo grandaughter) took off the wood , dragged it,
cursing and swearing, into the workshop. (A 8ft crowbar helped get it
over a few obstacles). Cleaned it up, turned it on, it works. Its
noisy, but adjusting the gear clearances and lubricating it quietened
it down. Now - the chip tray is not on the bottom, the lathe is still
bolted to the wooden crate it came on. I need to get the thing UP onto
the bench, and bolt it down.

Question - how do I do this, and get the chip tray on, without killing
myself. It weighs 95Kg, and I cant lift it up, slide the tray onto the
mounting bolts, and tighten it up. Tomorrow, I will purchase a sheet of
1 inch MDF as a base, countersink the bottom, and set up the mounting
bolts. (My radio workbenches are NOT designed to hold anything this big
and heavy).

How do I manouvre(sp) it up, onto the bench, line it up with the
mounting bolts, and get it down onto the mounting bolts. Without
killing myself, or needing to take yet another trip to the Chiropractor
to fix my back. (Again).

I dont have an engine lift, and cant borrow one. My friends are mainly
past their prime, so I am reluctant to ask for help - dont want them
killing themselves either. I cant rig a block and tackle - the ceiling
is plasterboard under a tin roof, so would collapse.

Any ideas folks. Its got other things I need to adjust up, but my newly
purchased school textbook on Fitting and Maching will hopefully have
how to do this.

Help......

Andrew VK3BFA.

"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...
MDF - if sealed, its pretty ok - and besides, I dont
think its going to warp a cast iron bed (Could be wrong, please correct
me if I am).

MDF _will_ warp your lathe out of true. It might not move enough to break
anything (perhaps not even to cause serious wear), but it will screw up your
work.

One really _weird_ solution I seen used in a home shop was to cast a
honey-combed concrete table top that sits on a wood stand. Yeah...
concrete.

The table top must've weighed as much as the lathe... but I can see how
well-reinforced, well-cured concrete would be a damned stable top!

OTOH, a sheet metal 'base' cabinet is really the way to go. They're cheap
to buy, cheap to fabricate on your own, and perfectly stable dimensionally,
if designed well. They're also a nice place to heap up all your
accessories, so long as you occlude chips and coolant from falling into the
base.

That won't work, either, unless you're placing the lathe on a stable (say,
concrete) floor. A wooden floor on wooden joists is as bad as a poor table.

LLoyd

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
One really _weird_ solution I seen used in a home shop was to cast a
honey-combed concrete table top that sits on a wood stand. Yeah...
concrete.

The table top must've weighed as much as the lathe... but I can see how
well-reinforced, well-cured concrete would be a damned stable top!

Yep, I've also considered that. Weld a rectangle of 3" angle iron, set
some bolts on end in the pattern or your lathe mounting holes, add
rebar/mesh, pour concrete. May do that.

OTOH, a sheet metal 'base' cabinet is really the way to go. They're cheap
to buy, cheap to fabricate on your own, and perfectly stable dimensionally,
if designed well. They're also a nice place to heap up all your
accessories, so long as you occlude chips and coolant from falling into the
base.

I found a dandy workbench at HD last month that is just perfect for this
size lathe. Black sheet-metal stand with two drawers and two big shelf
compartments, topped by a 1.5" hardwood top 60" x 20", on big casters.
It was $117, $79 on sale. Wish I'd bought two of them. My Logan 9x17
will find it's way onto this one.

Rex B

w VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...


It's _only_ 210lb? Even a fairly poorly built ceiling should handle that
with a couple of cross-braces spanning two or more trusses(rafters).

If you _really_can't_ borrow or rent an engine hoist, use a block and
tackle.

That's a really light lathe, and shouldn't be a bad job getting it up.

The MDF isn't a great idea, though. Although MDF has a fairly stable
surface layer, it's not stable dimensionally in changing humidity, and
will
rack your equipment out of true and level with every change of climate.
If
I had to use wood for the top, I'd choose a more stable wood, like VERY
fat
yellow pine. But wood isn't a great choice.

LLoyd

Lloyd, your correct, except to me, its not light. I spent 20 years as a
lineman and then a TV tech, lifting awkward, heavy weights. My back is
stuffed - if it goes out again, I dont work and dont earn (self
employed - no compo) - and if it goes out badly, I dont want to see a
surgeon - have seen too many people who are STUFFED even with
"successful" surgery. . The roof is tin, with plasterboard holding up
the insulation. MDF - if sealed, its pretty ok - and besides, I dont
think its going to warp a cast iron bed (Could be wrong, please correct
me if I am).

But youve given me food for thought - thank you - if all else fails, I
will hire an engine hoist....

Andrew VK3BFA.


Down here in Texas we just go to the local corner where the wetbacks gather
looking for work and hire a couple.

Clif

On 16 Jan 2006 04:07:28 -0800, "Andrew VK3BFA"
wrote:


Question - how do I do this, and get the chip tray on, without killing
myself. It weighs 95Kg, and I cant lift it up, slide the tray onto the
mounting bolts, and tighten it up. Tomorrow, I will purchase a sheet of
1 inch MDF as a base, countersink the bottom, and set up the mounting
bolts. (My radio workbenches are NOT designed to hold anything this big
and heavy).


Andrew VK3BFA.


Maybe some friends from church or work? Do you have a neighborhood kid
who has a friend? Flag down a policeman with a dozen Krispy Kremes?
Randy
--
Randy Replogle

http://www.chem.purdue.edu/machine

Andrew VK3BFA wrote:

It's _only_ 210lb?


Plan B might be to make an A-frame out of lumber (pieces you can lift),
and use the local equivalent of the HF $20 come-along to lift the lathe.
You will, of course, be lifting 2x4s bolted under the lathe bed to
insure the top heavy lathe does not flip as you are tying to lift it.
Equip the A-frame with wheels or skids to facilitate dragging the lathe
over the intended bench. Disassemble the A-frame and store it in the
corner until next time.

Kevin Gallimore




----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Andrew VK3BFA wrote:
Hey good people,
this is a rhetorical question, so will probably figure it out meself
(in time)....

Andrew VK3BFA.

It really depends on what you have on hand or can get. I have used
blocks of wood and a jack to get things up high enough to get pipe
rollers under them. I have also made a tripod to use to lift things.
Having a come-a-long helps. You can get one of those for about $10 in
the States. Wedges, inclined planes all work for some occasions. Just
be careful and think ahead. I tend to move one end, and then the other
to slowly move things.


Dan

Andrew VK3BFA asked:

How do I manouvre(sp) it up, onto the bench, line it up with the
mounting bolts, and get it down onto the mounting bolts. Without
killing myself, or needing to take yet another trip to the Chiropractor

to fix my back. (Again).

Where do you live Andrew? Anywhere around here and I've "got you
covered". What are neighbors for right?

On the MDF issue I'd agree with everyone else. It's coefficient of
expansion is suprisingly high (at least to me). Something else more
stable might be a sheet of thick phenolic. I'm not sure if linen or
paper base might be best.

dennis
in nca

I made an (sort of) A-frame crane out of 2x4s. My lathe was about $300.
I would recommend a better lifting mechanism than the block and tackle
in the pic however. Later on I added a cheap Harbor Freight winch. See
pic he

http://home.pacbell.net/shermfam/crane3.JPG

On 16 Jan 2006 04:07:28 -0800, "Andrew VK3BFA"
wrote:


I dont have an engine lift, and cant borrow one. My friends are mainly
past their prime, so I am reluctant to ask for help - dont want them
killing themselves either. I cant rig a block and tackle - the ceiling
is plasterboard under a tin roof, so would collapse.

Cultivate younger friends and neighbors. 95 kg is nothing for a
couple of younger guys. 100 lb (45.4 kg) was the standard 1-man
carry in the U. S. Army Corps of Engineers -- and that meant all
day for a long day of bridgebuilding or whatever.

My neighbor periodically shows up with some bits of metal in his hand,
says, "Hey, Don, I know how you hate to weld but......."

Those jobs get first priority because I know I can count on Con
(and friends) when I need a little help with some heavy lifting.

I have a unit heater about 10 feet above the floor that needs to be
replaced soon. I know exactly how I am going to get it down and the
new one up. (Hey, Con........)

Great excuse to get a welder. You're going to want to weld up
benches, tables and rawstock racks anyway. An inexpensive used
buzzbox stick welder works great for that sort of thing. You can
make a lot of useful stuff out of 1/8" to 1/4" angle iron, pipe,
channel and rectangular tube -- including an A-frame or other sort of
lifting arrangement.

I rented an engine hoist to put my mill-drill (about 300 kg) on the
stand I'd welded up while waiting for the mill-drill to arrive. When
I sold the mill-drill, the stand went with it.

I hired a professional rigger to transport and place my 15 x 50 lathe.
That was a bit pricey, but I think it was worth it. He knew exactly
what he was doing, does that sort of work every day, and he had the
right equipment for the job. That lathe is still exactly where he
set it up 15 years ago, gets used nearly every day. I don't know
what that sucker weighs, but it's a buncha metal.

On Mon, 16 Jan 2006 14:06:12 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
wrote:

One really _weird_ solution I seen used in a home shop was to cast a
honey-combed concrete table top that sits on a wood stand. Yeah...
concrete.

The table top must've weighed as much as the lathe... but I can see how
well-reinforced, well-cured concrete would be a damned stable top!

In another life, I had to design a new laboratory and one
requirement was to weigh samples to 0.001 gram accuracy. I had a
separate room with 2 concrete pillars, each 9" wide x 2'6" deep x 2'
high with 3 anti-vibration mounts on top of each pillar supporting a
cast concrete slab 3' deep x 5'6 wide x 9" thick, needless to say, it
was extremely stable, despite having about 6 x 20hp pumps running a
few metres away.

I moved my 12 x 36 lathe off my trailer, over my workshop doorstep
using wooden rollers, then moved it on to the chip pan while at ground
level, finally raising it high enough to slide the stand under, using
wooden blocks and hydraulic jacks. I did not raise it more than
25mm out of level at each end to keep it stable. Took about 3
hours from go to whoa.

I did have a smaller lathe but my youngest son " borrowed " it. He
came with 3 of his mates and carried it off. 6 months later I bought
this much better lathe and it is too heavy to carry off !

Andrew, if you were a VK6, I could help you set up your lathe.

Alan
in beautiful Golden Bay, Western Oz, South 32.25.42, East 115.45.44 GMT+8
VK6 YAB ICQ 6581610 to reply, change oz to au in address

Bugs wrote:

Rent an engine hoist or go to your favorite bar and buy a few rounds to
recruit some young bucks. A couple of them can do it in a trice, or
maybe a thrice.

Just make sure the reward beer is their first. I made the mistake of
buying my first lathe on a friday, and trying to get it out of the car
with the aid of a friend who'd had a few on his way home from work.
Oh, and lock the carriage too, as when you tip the lathe to go up the
stair and the carriage takes off cranking itself downhill towards your
inebriated friend's end, the results might not be predicatable. (In
this case, not predictable means he actually didn't drop it after all)

These days, calling the local high school and asking them to send
some strong boys around is liable to get you in trouble.

If you're going to pay someone to do it in the first place, then
hire a local moving company, which will probably do it for their
one-hour minimum charge. If they drop it and break something,
they're bonded.

RoyJ wrote:
I'd just call around to the local high school or trade school, ask the
receptionist for someone who could reccommend a couple of sturdy
characters to come over and help you. At a trade school, the students
might think it is fun to help and to see what the old codgers are doing.

Andrew

I see by your call sign that you live in Victoria.
If you live anywhere near Hampton, shoot me an
email and I'll give you a hand getting it into
place when you're ready.

Tom Miller
"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote
in message
oups.com...
Hey good people,
this is a rhetorical question, so will probably
figure it out meself
(in time).....Inspired by the Silver Tongues of
this group, I went and
bought a 9 by 20 Chinese lathe. (And a milling
machine).

OK - the courier literally dropped it off the
back of his truck, on top
of the box the mill is in. Got it onto one of my
TV service trolleys,
(with help from my 10yo grandaughter) took off
the wood , dragged it,
cursing and swearing, into the workshop. (A 8ft
crowbar helped get it
over a few obstacles). Cleaned it up, turned it
on, it works. Its
noisy, but adjusting the gear clearances and
lubricating it quietened
it down. Now - the chip tray is not on the
bottom, the lathe is still
bolted to the wooden crate it came on. I need to
get the thing UP onto
the bench, and bolt it down.

Question - how do I do this, and get the chip
tray on, without killing
myself. It weighs 95Kg, and I cant lift it up,
slide the tray onto the
mounting bolts, and tighten it up. Tomorrow, I
will purchase a sheet of
1 inch MDF as a base, countersink the bottom,
and set up the mounting
bolts. (My radio workbenches are NOT designed to
hold anything this big
and heavy).

How do I manouvre(sp) it up, onto the bench,
line it up with the
mounting bolts, and get it down onto the
mounting bolts. Without
killing myself, or needing to take yet another
trip to the Chiropractor
to fix my back. (Again).

I dont have an engine lift, and cant borrow one.
My friends are mainly
past their prime, so I am reluctant to ask for
help - dont want them
killing themselves either. I cant rig a block
and tackle - the ceiling
is plasterboard under a tin roof, so would
collapse.

Any ideas folks. Its got other things I need to
adjust up, but my newly
purchased school textbook on Fitting and Maching
will hopefully have
how to do this.

Help......

Andrew VK3BFA.

Mike Berger wrote:
These days, calling the local high school and asking them to send
some strong boys around is liable to get you in trouble.

If you're going to pay someone to do it in the first place, then
hire a local moving company, which will probably do it for their
one-hour minimum charge. If they drop it and break something,
they're bonded.


Call the local fire station. Off-duty firemen will do it for a
reasonable price

Tom Miller wrote:
Andrew

I see by your call sign that you live in Victoria.
If you live anywhere near Hampton, shoot me an
email and I'll give you a hand getting it into
place when you're ready.

Tom Miller

Hi Tom,
in Glen Waverley - and thanks for the offer. The MDF mount is a BAD
IDEA - have thoughts on that, will make up a 3 by 2 hardwood frame,
cover it with plywood, and then make up a sub frame of 1 inch sq.
tubing for stability (have heaps in the rack, left over from the tower
project) - this way, I can add legs to it for portability if needed. I
work in a VERY small space, most of it taken up with radio and test
gear - one day, move to the country....sigh..... big shed(s) - more
storage, more tools, more.......

Whats a valid email for you - had 2 goes, but your anti-spam works real
well. Mine is bull**** - its the old ISP, and funny, since I moved
ISP's and dont give out the "real" address, no spam problems. At all.

Andrew VK3BFA.

"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...


It's _only_ 210lb? Even a fairly poorly built ceiling should handle that
with a couple of cross-braces spanning two or more trusses(rafters).

If you _really_can't_ borrow or rent an engine hoist, use a block and
tackle.

That's a really light lathe, and shouldn't be a bad job getting it up.

The MDF isn't a great idea, though. Although MDF has a fairly stable
surface layer, it's not stable dimensionally in changing humidity, and
will
rack your equipment out of true and level with every change of climate.
If
I had to use wood for the top, I'd choose a more stable wood, like VERY
fat
yellow pine. But wood isn't a great choice.

LLoyd

Lloyd, your correct, except to me, its not light. I spent 20 years as a
lineman and then a TV tech, lifting awkward, heavy weights. My back is
stuffed - if it goes out again, I dont work and dont earn (self
employed - no compo) - and if it goes out badly, I dont want to see a
surgeon - have seen too many people who are STUFFED even with
"successful" surgery. . The roof is tin, with plasterboard holding up
the insulation. MDF - if sealed, its pretty ok - and besides, I dont
think its going to warp a cast iron bed (Could be wrong, please correct
me if I am).

But youve given me food for thought - thank you - if all else fails, I
will hire an engine hoist....

The local tool rental place was happy to rent me an engine hoist for $20 for
a day or two - for $30, I think he was willing to deliver and pick it up.

I did that once and then grabbed my own fold-up style hoist from Pep Boys on
their next sale for $110. For $100 or less you could also get the Harbor
Freight 400/800 lb electric hoist and for $20 or $30 an import come-along.
$20 might also persuade a couple of local teenagers to do the job for you.

Mike

According to rigger :
Andrew VK3BFA asked:

How do I manouvre(sp) it up, onto the bench, line it up with the
mounting bolts, and get it down onto the mounting bolts. Without
killing myself, or needing to take yet another trip to the Chiropractor

to fix my back. (Again).

Where do you live Andrew? Anywhere around here and I've "got you
covered". What are neighbors for right?

His e-mail address tells me that he is in Oz (Australia).

On the MDF issue I'd agree with everyone else. It's coefficient of
expansion is suprisingly high (at least to me). Something else more
stable might be a sheet of thick phenolic. I'm not sure if linen or
paper base might be best.

Agreed -- it is amazing how much a much larger lathe can shift
with just the pressure from a single finger -- when you have a Starrett
"Master Precision" level on the bed to measure it. And a 9x20 is not as
stiff as the lathe on which I experienced this (a 12x24" Clausing with a
metal stand. *Don't* use anything which can change with the humidity.
And don't even consider something like a slab of 1" thick aluminum. The
differing temperature coefficient of expansion will warp the bed as the
two parts expand --just like the actuator arm in a thermocouple.


Steel and Cast iron are not that different, so that would be
what you really want.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...

| Lloyd, your correct, except to me, its not light. I spent 20 years as a
| lineman and then a TV tech, lifting awkward, heavy weights.

I have an idea. Visit an outfit that does fences. They all have a
scrap bin full of free wood. Haul all the stubs of 4x4's out of there and
whip up some cribbing. You can get them in all sorts of lengths, and if you
ask nicely of someone working there, they might provide you with longer
pieces. They usually keep a pile of two or three foot pieces around for
whatnot, and they will let you have some from the pile. Be prepared to
stuff a five dollar bill in his pocket for his effort.

According to Mike Henry :

"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...

[ ... ]

But youve given me food for thought - thank you - if all else fails, I
will hire an engine hoist....

The local tool rental place was happy to rent me an engine hoist for $20 for
a day or two - for $30, I think he was willing to deliver and pick it up.

His prices may differ -- especially since he is paying in
Australian dollars, and I don't know what the tool rental situation is
down there.

I did that once and then grabbed my own fold-up style hoist from Pep Boys on
their next sale for $110. For $100 or less you could also get the Harbor
Freight 400/800 lb electric hoist and for $20 or $30 an import come-along.
$20 might also persuade a couple of local teenagers to do the job for you.

Again -- Harbor Freight and Pep Boys are not in Australia, so I
can't predict what he will find.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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I did that once and then grabbed my own fold-up
style hoist from Pep Boys on
their next sale for $110. For $100 or less you
could also get the Harbor Freight 400/800 lb
electric hoist and for $20 or $30 an import
come-along. $20 might also persuade a couple of
local teenagers to do the job for you.

Mike


I think the freight charges might make that a bit
uneconomic as andrew lives here in Australi

Tom Miller

Plan B seems reasonable - but in general - lift by under the Ways. The pan
on most machines can't hold the weight.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



axolotl wrote:
Andrew VK3BFA wrote:

It's _only_ 210lb?



Plan B might be to make an A-frame out of lumber (pieces you can lift),
and use the local equivalent of the HF $20 come-along to lift the lathe.
You will, of course, be lifting 2x4s bolted under the lathe bed to
insure the top heavy lathe does not flip as you are tying to lift it.
Equip the A-frame with wheels or skids to facilitate dragging the lathe
over the intended bench. Disassemble the A-frame and store it in the
corner until next time.

Kevin Gallimore




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