I have a die filer made by the All American Tool & Mfg. company. Does
anyone have any manuals, parts list, or other information on these
machines?

Thanks

George

I don't have the manual but I do have a very complete one if pics will help
or will try to answer any questions.
Respectfully,
Ron Moore

"George Woodzell" wrote in message
...
I have a die filer made by the All American Tool & Mfg. company. Does
anyone have any manuals, parts list, or other information on these
machines?

Thanks

George

Thanks for the offer, Ron. I believe my machine is complete, too. My
machine has two knobs projecing from the top and bottom of what I'd
call the "drive box" (a rectangular housing on the right-hand side of
the base of the machine.) Can yoiu tell me the purpose of these knobs?

I feel strong resistance when I turn either of the knobs, and the drive
motor noticeably loads down, but I'm reluctant to turn the knobs far
enough to produce any observable effect. I'm guessing the kobs control
the shape of the file's stroke - is that correct?

Thanks for your help.

George

In article r8dvf.37403$Ou3.22937@dukeread09, Ron Moore
wrote:

I don't have the manual but I do have a very complete one if pics will help
or will try to answer any questions.
Respectfully,
Ron Moore

"George Woodzell" wrote in message
...
I have a die filer made by the All American Tool & Mfg. company. Does
anyone have any manuals, parts list, or other information on these
machines?

Thanks

George

To George and Ron: I likewise own an All-American Tool and Mfg. Co. Inc
die filer. Mine is serial number 81-209, and I believe the "81" represents
the date of manufacture. The two smaller knobs on front of the drive box
are adjustments for the amount of clearance in the reciprocating drive
mechanism. If they are correctly adjusted, I believe they do not require
any further attention during operation. Yes, I have an operator's manual and
parts book, and if needed, send me your mailing address and I will xerox a
set for you.

This machine works fine for me, but I do have a problem getting the short
files that it was originally designed for, since they must cut on the
downstroke. I have made my own work-around by breaking a conventional file
(6 or 8 inches length) about in the middle and making a new 1/4 x 1 inch
diameter brass end to fit in the machine's chuck. Drill a 3/16 inch hole in
the brass rod and insert part of the new file, grinding it off to fit if
needed. Then silver-solder it in the socket quickly before the heat
travells up the file and anneals the heat treatment on the working teeth.
Only takes a few seconds. Remember that conventional files cut on the
forward stroke, and this machine cuts on the down stroke.

I use mine for making steel hands for 18th century clocks. For what
purpose will you use your's? Regards, Dave Anderson


"George Woodzell" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the offer, Ron. I believe my machine is complete, too. My
machine has two knobs projecing from the top and bottom of what I'd
call the "drive box" (a rectangular housing on the right-hand side of
the base of the machine.) Can yoiu tell me the purpose of these knobs?

I feel strong resistance when I turn either of the knobs, and the drive
motor noticeably loads down, but I'm reluctant to turn the knobs far
enough to produce any observable effect. I'm guessing the kobs control
the shape of the file's stroke - is that correct?

Thanks for your help.

George

In article r8dvf.37403$Ou3.22937@dukeread09, Ron Moore
wrote:

I don't have the manual but I do have a very complete one if pics will
help
or will try to answer any questions.
Respectfully,
Ron Moore

"George Woodzell" wrote in message
...
I have a die filer made by the All American Tool & Mfg. company. Does
anyone have any manuals, parts list, or other information on these
machines?

Thanks

George

On Fri, 06 Jan 2006 16:34:22 GMT, "David Anderson"
wrote:

To George and Ron: I likewise own an All-American Tool and Mfg. Co. Inc
die filer. Mine is serial number 81-209, and I believe the "81" represents
the date of manufacture. The two smaller knobs on front of the drive box
are adjustments for the amount of clearance in the reciprocating drive
mechanism. If they are correctly adjusted, I believe they do not require
any further attention during operation. Yes, I have an operator's manual and
parts book, and if needed, send me your mailing address and I will xerox a
set for you.

This machine works fine for me, but I do have a problem getting the short
files that it was originally designed for, since they must cut on the
downstroke. I have made my own work-around by breaking a conventional file
(6 or 8 inches length) about in the middle and making a new 1/4 x 1 inch
diameter brass end to fit in the machine's chuck. Drill a 3/16 inch hole in
the brass rod and insert part of the new file, grinding it off to fit if
needed. Then silver-solder it in the socket quickly before the heat
travells up the file and anneals the heat treatment on the working teeth.
Only takes a few seconds. Remember that conventional files cut on the
forward stroke, and this machine cuts on the down stroke.

I use mine for making steel hands for 18th century clocks. For what
purpose will you use your's? Regards, Dave Anderson

Greetings Dave,
I have a die filer I made from castings and plans supplied by Metal
Lathe Accessories. And like you I make my own files. But use different
solder. I made a little fixture that holds the brass or steel shank
and the file so that everything is straight. Magnets provide the
holding power. For brass shanks I use a magnet to hold a steel piece
against the brass. Either epoxy or soft solder work well. I have found
that soft solder is really the best because it is the fastest. I
thought about silver solder but everything gets too hot and takes too
long to cool down. The solder I use is a silver bearing soft solder.
It's 6% silver. I have also had good luck with TIX solder. This stuff
melts at a very low temperature and is advertised as the "hardest"
soft solder. That may be true but it does not have near the tensile
strength of 94/6 tin silver solder. And it's expensive. But it's
really fast because it melts at such a low temperature. Sometimes I
tin the file before putting it into the shank. But no matter how the
files are held with any of the soft solders or epoxy none have failed
or become loose. If you think about it you will realize that since you
don't apply very much pressure to the file the solder doesn't need to
be all that strong. Even filing 304 SS, which requires lots of
pressure compared to brass or even mild steel, the files have never
moved or come loose. Though there's nothing wrong with silver solder
you may want to try soft solder and see if maybe you can save yourself
some time and effort.
Cheers,
Eric R Snow,
E T Precision Machine

"George Woodzell" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the offer, Ron. I believe my machine is complete, too. My
machine has two knobs projecing from the top and bottom of what I'd
call the "drive box" (a rectangular housing on the right-hand side of
the base of the machine.) Can yoiu tell me the purpose of these knobs?

I feel strong resistance when I turn either of the knobs, and the drive
motor noticeably loads down, but I'm reluctant to turn the knobs far
enough to produce any observable effect. I'm guessing the kobs control
the shape of the file's stroke - is that correct?

Thanks for your help.

George

In article r8dvf.37403$Ou3.22937@dukeread09, Ron Moore
wrote:

I don't have the manual but I do have a very complete one if pics will
help
or will try to answer any questions.
Respectfully,
Ron Moore

"George Woodzell" wrote in message
...
I have a die filer made by the All American Tool & Mfg. company. Does
anyone have any manuals, parts list, or other information on these
machines?

Thanks

George

"David Anderson" wrote in message
om...
To George and Ron: I likewise own an All-American Tool and Mfg. Co. Inc
die filer. Mine is serial number 81-209, and I believe the "81"
represents the date of manufacture. The two smaller knobs on front of the
drive box are adjustments for the amount of clearance in the reciprocating
drive mechanism. If they are correctly adjusted, I believe they do not
require any further attention during operation. Yes, I have an operator's
manual and parts book, and if needed, send me your mailing address and I
will xerox a set for you.

This machine works fine for me, but I do have a problem getting the short
files that it was originally designed for, since they must cut on the
downstroke. I have made my own work-around by breaking a conventional
file (6 or 8 inches length) about in the middle and making a new 1/4 x 1
inch diameter brass end to fit in the machine's chuck. Drill a 3/16 inch
hole in the brass rod and insert part of the new file, grinding it off to
fit if needed. Then silver-solder it in the socket quickly before the
heat travells up the file and anneals the heat treatment on the working
teeth. Only takes a few seconds. Remember that conventional files cut on
the forward stroke, and this machine cuts on the down stroke.


Does it take the 3-1/4-inch long die files with 1/8" round shanks? I have 7
of those in various profiles that look new and that I wouldn't mind selling.
Email me if interested.

I have a Milwaukee (made by Manley) die filer that takes approximately 8"
long files and the short ones don't stick up enough to clear the table.

Mike

snip

" To George and Ron: I likewise own an All-American Tool and Mfg. Co.
Inc
die filer. Mine is serial number 81-209, and I believe the "81"
represents
the date of manufacture. The two smaller knobs on front of the drive
box
are adjustments for the amount of clearance in the reciprocating drive

mechanism. If they are correctly adjusted, I believe they do not
require
any further attention during operation. Yes, I have an operator's
manual and
parts book, and if needed, send me your mailing address and I will
xerox a
set for you. "


Dave,

Any chance we could get you to put them in the metalworking dropbox?

Thanks

TMT