Many thanks for the helpful input you all have given me via an earlier
thread. I've gotten a response to some inquiries for a local lathe, and
would very much appreciate your input on this:

----------

I have a large metal lathe with a lot of features and a lot of accessories
that you may be interested in. It is a Cincinatti "Tray-Lathe" circa the
early to mid-50's, 12"x36". I have a 2HP 115/230 single phase and a 3-ph
motor for it, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, faceplate, and other goodies. It has a
quick-change gear head as well as a quick-change threading gearbox. It was
appraised at over $1K back when I was using it but I haven't used it in a
number of years and it is collecting dust in my garage. If you are
interested I would probably sell it for around $500 if you would come get
it.

----------

To me this looks like a good deal, at least on paper, but then I'm still a
rank newbie. What do you think?

When I go to look at it, I will of course make sure that everything works
and that there is no play in the headstock. Any of the gearing that I can
see I will inspect for chipped teeth. What else should I look for / at? In
particular, how do I determine the amount of wear on the ways?

Many thanks for your help!

Andy

Andrew H. Wakefield wrote:

Many thanks for the helpful input you all have given me via an earlier
thread. I've gotten a response to some inquiries for a local lathe, and
would very much appreciate your input on this:

----------



I have a large metal lathe with a lot of features and a lot of accessories
that you may be interested in. It is a Cincinatti "Tray-Lathe" circa the
early to mid-50's, 12"x36". I have a 2HP 115/230 single phase and a 3-ph
motor for it, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, faceplate, and other goodies. It has a
quick-change gear head as well as a quick-change threading gearbox. It was
appraised at over $1K back when I was using it but I haven't used it in a
number of years and it is collecting dust in my garage. If you are
interested I would probably sell it for around $500 if you would come get
it.



----------

To me this looks like a good deal, at least on paper, but then I'm still a
rank newbie. What do you think?

When I go to look at it, I will of course make sure that everything works
and that there is no play in the headstock. Any of the gearing that I can
see I will inspect for chipped teeth. What else should I look for / at? In
particular, how do I determine the amount of wear on the ways?


Wow, if I am right on what this lathe is, it is worth a lot more than he
thinks.
Basically, a heavy-duty 12" geared-head engine lathe.

Anyway, if the carriage sweeps only part of the bed ways, then it will leave
a ridge between the swept and unswept parts. You can feel the ridge with
your fingernail to judge the amount of wear. You can't tolerate much wear,
as it will tilt the carriage and cause the machine to cut barrel-like
shapes.
A few thousandths should be OK for most uses, though. If the carriage
sweeps the entire width of the ways, however, it can be hard to judge the
amount of wear. If there are deep scratches in the ways, that is a warning
sign.

Jon

Jon Elson wrote:


Andrew H. Wakefield wrote:

Many thanks for the helpful input you all have given me via an earlier
thread. I've gotten a response to some inquiries for a local lathe,
and would very much appreciate your input on this:

----------
I have a large metal lathe with a lot of features and a lot of
accessories that you may be interested in. It is a Cincinatti
"Tray-Lathe" circa the early to mid-50's, 12"x36". I have a 2HP
115/230 single phase and a 3-ph motor for it, 3 and 4 jaw chucks,
faceplate, and other goodies. It has a quick-change gear head as
well as a quick-change threading gearbox. It was appraised at over
$1K back when I was using it but I haven't used it in a number of
years and it is collecting dust in my garage. If you are interested
I would probably sell it for around $500 if you would come get it.

----------

To me this looks like a good deal, at least on paper, but then I'm
still a rank newbie. What do you think?

When I go to look at it, I will of course make sure that everything
works and that there is no play in the headstock. Any of the gearing
that I can see I will inspect for chipped teeth. What else should I
look for / at? In particular, how do I determine the amount of wear on
the ways?


Wow, if I am right on what this lathe is, it is worth a lot more than he
thinks.
Basically, a heavy-duty 12" geared-head engine lathe.

Anyway, if the carriage sweeps only part of the bed ways, then it will
leave
a ridge between the swept and unswept parts. You can feel the ridge with
your fingernail to judge the amount of wear. You can't tolerate much wear,
as it will tilt the carriage and cause the machine to cut barrel-like
shapes.
A few thousandths should be OK for most uses, though. If the carriage
sweeps the entire width of the ways, however, it can be hard to judge the
amount of wear. If there are deep scratches in the ways, that is a warning
sign.

Jon

And if your fingernail will catch on that ridge, that makes it worth...
the asking price, all else being OK. Be sure to read "In Praise of
Klunkers" on the mermac site

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 13:10:52 -0500, "Andrew H. Wakefield"
wrote:

Many thanks for the helpful input you all have given me via an earlier
thread. I've gotten a response to some inquiries for a local lathe, and
would very much appreciate your input on this:

----------

I have a large metal lathe with a lot of features and a lot of accessories
that you may be interested in. It is a Cincinatti "Tray-Lathe" circa the
early to mid-50's, 12"x36". I have a 2HP 115/230 single phase and a 3-ph
motor for it, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, faceplate, and other goodies. It has a
quick-change gear head as well as a quick-change threading gearbox. It was
appraised at over $1K back when I was using it but I haven't used it in a
number of years and it is collecting dust in my garage. If you are
interested I would probably sell it for around $500 if you would come get
it.

----------

To me this looks like a good deal, at least on paper, but then I'm still a
rank newbie. What do you think?

When I go to look at it, I will of course make sure that everything works
and that there is no play in the headstock. Any of the gearing that I can
see I will inspect for chipped teeth. What else should I look for / at? In
particular, how do I determine the amount of wear on the ways?

Many thanks for your help!

Andy

A tray top Cincie for $500? If its in good working order..snag it NOW!
Run! dont walk to the guy with cash in hand.

Its fairly heavy (a good thing) so be prepared for moving it. Parts
are pretty much non existant, but they were a rugged lathe and I still
see them in daily use in machine shops.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 13:10:52 -0500, "Andrew H. Wakefield"
wrote:

Many thanks for the helpful input you all have given me via an earlier
thread. I've gotten a response to some inquiries for a local lathe, and
would very much appreciate your input on this:

----------

I have a large metal lathe with a lot of features and a lot of
accessories
that you may be interested in. It is a Cincinatti "Tray-Lathe" circa
the
early to mid-50's, 12"x36". I have a 2HP 115/230 single phase and a
3-ph
motor for it, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, faceplate, and other goodies. It has
a
quick-change gear head as well as a quick-change threading gearbox. It
was
appraised at over $1K back when I was using it but I haven't used it in
a
number of years and it is collecting dust in my garage. If you are
interested I would probably sell it for around $500 if you would come
get
it.

----------

To me this looks like a good deal, at least on paper, but then I'm still
a
rank newbie. What do you think?

When I go to look at it, I will of course make sure that everything works
and that there is no play in the headstock. Any of the gearing that I can
see I will inspect for chipped teeth. What else should I look for / at?
In
particular, how do I determine the amount of wear on the ways?

Many thanks for your help!

Andy

A tray top Cincie for $500? If its in good working order..snag it NOW!
Run! dont walk to the guy with cash in hand.

Its fairly heavy (a good thing) so be prepared for moving it. Parts
are pretty much non existant, but they were a rugged lathe and I still
see them in daily use in machine shops.

Gunner


Funny------I ran a (new) Traytop when I started in the trade. As I recall,
handles in a circle, color coded, protruding at an angle, which shift the
headstock gearing.

To be perfectly honest, I didn't think much of the machine, but keep in mind
I was comparing it to a new EE Monarch, to which I was assigned after
running the Traytop.

I agree, it would be a nice home shop machine, assuming it's not trashed.

Harold

Thanks, all, for the input. As always, your answers lead me to more
questions!

John, thanks for the tip on checking the ways. Rex, where do I find the
mermac site? I take it that it is possible to restore the ways if they are
worn? Is this a major ordeal?

Gunner, you mentioned the weight -- I was wondering about that. Any idea how
much weight we're talking about? 1000 lbs., or less? Can I carry it in my
little Ranger, and do I need a forklift to get it into or out of the truck?
I've read a recent thread about moving a lathe with interest, but I'm
thinking the engine hoist that was discussed in that thread wouldn't be able
to lift it high enough for the truck -- yes? no?

As far as parts go -- would there be anything broken that a competent
machinist could not fix? (No, I am not a competent machinist yet, by a long
shot, but I have a friend who is

Harold, you mentioned that you didn't like this lathe compared to an EE
Monarch. I'm too new to all this to appreciate the comparison, since I've
never seen either one. Anything in particular that you didn't care for
about the Cincinnati Tray-Lathe? Any particular features that I should be
aware of?

I'll be looking at the lathe this weekend. Pictures and/or update to follow
....

Andy

"Andrew H. Wakefield" wrote in message
...
Many thanks for the helpful input you all have given me via an earlier
thread. I've gotten a response to some inquiries for a local lathe, and
would very much appreciate your input on this:

----------

I have a large metal lathe with a lot of features and a lot of accessories
that you may be interested in. It is a Cincinatti "Tray-Lathe" circa the
early to mid-50's, 12"x36". I have a 2HP 115/230 single phase and a 3-ph
motor for it, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, faceplate, and other goodies. It has a
quick-change gear head as well as a quick-change threading gearbox. It
was appraised at over $1K back when I was using it but I haven't used it
in a number of years and it is collecting dust in my garage. If you are
interested I would probably sell it for around $500 if you would come get
it.

----------

To me this looks like a good deal, at least on paper, but then I'm still a
rank newbie. What do you think?

When I go to look at it, I will of course make sure that everything works
and that there is no play in the headstock. Any of the gearing that I can
see I will inspect for chipped teeth. What else should I look for / at? In
particular, how do I determine the amount of wear on the ways?

Many thanks for your help!

Andy

Andrew H. Wakefield wrote:
Rex, where do I find the
mermac site?

http://www.mermac.com/

I take it that it is possible to restore the ways if they are
worn? Is this a major ordeal?

Yes, and yes.
The "klunkers" article explains how you might be able to live with worn
ways.

"Andrew H. Wakefield" wrote in message
...
snip----

Harold, you mentioned that you didn't like this lathe compared to an EE
Monarch. I'm too new to all this to appreciate the comparison, since I've
never seen either one. Anything in particular that you didn't care for
about the Cincinnati Tray-Lathe? Any particular features that I should be
aware of?


A Monarch EE is likely the finest engine lathe (toolroom lathe) ever made,
so it's not a fair comparison. You might say it's like comparing a Rolls
Royce with a Ford.

The one feature that I didn't like much was the machine seemed to lack a
fine response. I was involved in a lot of close tolerance work---which was
made much easier with the EE. As you develop your machining skills, you
start to notice how machine tools respond to your commands. The TrayTop
lacked the fine feel, nothing more.

Don't take anything I said as a negative. Unless you get involved in work
that would better be run on a precision grinder, the TrayTop should serve
you quite well. In the scheme of things, it's not a heavy duty machine
(think Mori Seiki, or Axelson, for example), but it's very much an
industrially rated machine, a tremendous leap above many other machines.
Cincinnati made some good equipment, particularly their centerless and
cutter grinders.

Assuming the machine is in operating condition and not worn out, it is a
killer good deal for you.

Harold

Andrew,

I have a tray-top and I am very happy with it. The manual calls it a
medium duty tool room lathe. It weighs just under 2000 lbs. I moved
mine by taking it a part. I have the 30 inch bed. 4 people could carry
each part, though it might be worth noting that each person was between
25 and 35. We put a long bar through the head stock so 4 people could
carry it. The hardest part to carry was the base under the headstock
end. It was very hard to get 4 people on it. I think we dragged it
more or less. The trick to removing the QC box was to remove one or two
the screws inside the box that attached it to the bed also.

Spare parts are "available". Half-nuts are about $1700. the 2 metric
change gears were $6800, but the metric cover plate for the QC box was
$25. The oil sight gages were about $11 each.

Good luck,

Vince


Andrew H. Wakefield wrote:
Thanks, all, for the input. As always, your answers lead me to more
questions!

John, thanks for the tip on checking the ways. Rex, where do I find the
mermac site? I take it that it is possible to restore the ways if they are
worn? Is this a major ordeal?

Gunner, you mentioned the weight -- I was wondering about that. Any idea how
much weight we're talking about? 1000 lbs., or less? Can I carry it in my
little Ranger, and do I need a forklift to get it into or out of the truck?
I've read a recent thread about moving a lathe with interest, but I'm
thinking the engine hoist that was discussed in that thread wouldn't be able
to lift it high enough for the truck -- yes? no?

As far as parts go -- would there be anything broken that a competent
machinist could not fix? (No, I am not a competent machinist yet, by a long
shot, but I have a friend who is

Harold, you mentioned that you didn't like this lathe compared to an EE
Monarch. I'm too new to all this to appreciate the comparison, since I've
never seen either one. Anything in particular that you didn't care for
about the Cincinnati Tray-Lathe? Any particular features that I should be
aware of?

I'll be looking at the lathe this weekend. Pictures and/or update to follow
...

Andy

"Andrew H. Wakefield" wrote in message
...

Many thanks for the helpful input you all have given me via an earlier
thread. I've gotten a response to some inquiries for a local lathe, and
would very much appreciate your input on this:

----------


I have a large metal lathe with a lot of features and a lot of accessories
that you may be interested in. It is a Cincinatti "Tray-Lathe" circa the
early to mid-50's, 12"x36". I have a 2HP 115/230 single phase and a 3-ph
motor for it, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, faceplate, and other goodies. It has a
quick-change gear head as well as a quick-change threading gearbox. It
was appraised at over $1K back when I was using it but I haven't used it
in a number of years and it is collecting dust in my garage. If you are
interested I would probably sell it for around $500 if you would come get
it.

----------

To me this looks like a good deal, at least on paper, but then I'm still a
rank newbie. What do you think?

When I go to look at it, I will of course make sure that everything works
and that there is no play in the headstock. Any of the gearing that I can
see I will inspect for chipped teeth. What else should I look for / at? In
particular, how do I determine the amount of wear on the ways?

Many thanks for your help!

Andy

Well, I'm off to look at the lathe this afternoon. A report will follow

Meanwhile, I checked out the mermac site (thanks Rex -- I guess I should
have tried the obvious before asking!) and found the two articles on lathes
very helpful indeed. I'm going to re-read the article on evaluating a lathe
before I go look at it.

I also talked with the seller to set up the time and get directions, and
also got some more information. He got the lathe from a community college
and used it a little. He said the ways are in excellent condition. When he
moved into his present house, he never had time to set it up, and his wife
wants him to get rid of it. He said that the only thing that was not quite
right on the lathe is that the carriage crank bushing is worn and the crank
is consequently "floppy" -- but it still works. (Sounds like part of
Gunner's recent repair ... thanks for the story, Gunner!) It has a
quick-change tool post, one or two dead centers, 3 & 4 jaw chucks,
faceplate, a steady rest that may need some work. It also has the taper jig.
He had some bits but doesn't know where they are. I asked him if there was
any chance of powering it up -- he didn't rule it out, but there may be an
issue of getting power to the machine.

Does any of this raise any red flags for anyone? The fact that it is still
on skids from moving into his present house sounds a little like one of the
warning signs mentioned by Dave in the article on the mermac site, but the
story makes sense. Obviously the key will be meeting the seller and getting
a sense about him, as well as inspecting the lathe.

Any further words of wisdom before I go to look at the lathe will be most
appreciated!

Andy


"Andrew H. Wakefield" wrote in message
...
Many thanks for the helpful input you all have given me via an earlier
thread. I've gotten a response to some inquiries for a local lathe, and
would very much appreciate your input on this:

----------

I have a large metal lathe with a lot of features and a lot of accessories
that you may be interested in. It is a Cincinatti "Tray-Lathe" circa the
early to mid-50's, 12"x36". I have a 2HP 115/230 single phase and a 3-ph
motor for it, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, faceplate, and other goodies. It has a
quick-change gear head as well as a quick-change threading gearbox. It
was appraised at over $1K back when I was using it but I haven't used it
in a number of years and it is collecting dust in my garage. If you are
interested I would probably sell it for around $500 if you would come get
it.

----------

To me this looks like a good deal, at least on paper, but then I'm still a
rank newbie. What do you think?

When I go to look at it, I will of course make sure that everything works
and that there is no play in the headstock. Any of the gearing that I can
see I will inspect for chipped teeth. What else should I look for / at? In
particular, how do I determine the amount of wear on the ways?

Many thanks for your help!

Andy

Andrew H. Wakefield wrote:
Well, I'm off to look at the lathe this afternoon. A report will follow

Meanwhile, I checked out the mermac site (thanks Rex -- I guess I should
have tried the obvious before asking!) and found the two articles on lathes
very helpful indeed. I'm going to re-read the article on evaluating a lathe
before I go look at it.

I also talked with the seller to set up the time and get directions, and
also got some more information. He got the lathe from a community college
and used it a little. He said the ways are in excellent condition.

Some designs can look great, but the wear may not be apparent without
accurate measurement. I think someone else pointed out that if the
carriage pressure points do not cover the whole width of the way, it can
wear a ridge to serve as an indicator. If the carriage contacts the
way full-width, then no ridge, although the wear could be there.

moved into his present house, he never had time to set it up, and his wife
wants him to get rid of it. He said that the only thing that was not quite
right on the lathe is that the carriage crank bushing is worn and the crank
is consequently "floppy" -- but it still works. (Sounds like part of
Gunner's recent repair ... thanks for the story, Gunner!) It has a

That would mean it has some high hours on it.

quick-change tool post, one or two dead centers, 3 & 4 jaw chucks,
faceplate, a steady rest that may need some work. It also has the taper jig.
He had some bits but doesn't know where they are. I asked him if there was
any chance of powering it up -- he didn't rule it out, but there may be an
issue of getting power to the machine.

Does any of this raise any red flags for anyone?

Not enough to overcome the low price

I turned down a $500 SB Heavy 10 last month due to the condition of the
ways, despite the fact that the entire lathe had been beautifully
restored.

The fact that it is still
on skids from moving into his present house sounds a little like one of the
warning signs mentioned by Dave in the article on the mermac site, but the
story makes sense. Obviously the key will be meeting the seller and getting
a sense about him, as well as inspecting the lathe.

Always

Any further words of wisdom before I go to look at the lathe will be most
appreciated!

Take cash in small bills, in case there is an opportunity for further
incremental price negotiation.
Also a strong friend, and an appropriate trailer and rigging

On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 10:09:22 -0500, "Andrew H. Wakefield"
wrote:

Does any of this raise any red flags for anyone? The fact that it is still
on skids from moving into his present house sounds a little like one of the
warning signs mentioned by Dave in the article on the mermac site, but the
story makes sense. Obviously the key will be meeting the seller and getting
a sense about him, as well as inspecting the lathe.

Perhaps a red flag..perhaps not. Chuckle..since my shop is dirt
floored..I have a number of machines that are still on their pallets,
under power and running.

Shrug..those two articles..and your gut feeling should help you get
started. Check for play in the compound..grab the tool holder and push
and pull. If it moves say...more than 1/8"..the nuts are worn..the
usual stuff.

The one issue with having the guy go through the effort of putting it
under power..is Ive seen them change their mind and decide to keep
it....lol

I think it was Jim that said...hey..that wasnt so bad afterall...

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

"Andrew H. Wakefield" wrote in message
...
snip-------
Any further words of wisdom before I go to look at the lathe will be most
appreciated!

Andy



" He said that the only thing that was not quite
right on the lathe is that the carriage crank bushing is worn and the crank
is consequently "floppy" -- but it still works."

That, to me, would be a sign of a machine that has been ridden hard and put
away wet. Check the ways for wear, and the cross slide as well. Look
for any gouges, where chips may have ruined the surfaces, and inconsistent
form of the ways. Keep in mind that if the ways are not good, the
machine, at best, won't be very reliable for anything but rough work.

Harold

On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 12:03:37 -0800, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Andrew H. Wakefield" wrote in message
.. .
snip-------
Any further words of wisdom before I go to look at the lathe will be most
appreciated!

Andy



" He said that the only thing that was not quite
right on the lathe is that the carriage crank bushing is worn and the crank
is consequently "floppy" -- but it still works."

That, to me, would be a sign of a machine that has been ridden hard and put
away wet. Check the ways for wear, and the cross slide as well. Look
for any gouges, where chips may have ruined the surfaces, and inconsistent
form of the ways. Keep in mind that if the ways are not good, the
machine, at best, won't be very reliable for anything but rough work.

Harold

I should mention Harold..that My 15x52 clausing had worn crank
bushings, yet the machine is tight, has NO wear on the ways and will
hold very good tolerences. Personally I think the way they built it
lead to premature wear.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 12:03:37 -0800, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Andrew H. Wakefield" wrote in message
.. .
snip-------
Any further words of wisdom before I go to look at the lathe will be
most
appreciated!

Andy



" He said that the only thing that was not quite
right on the lathe is that the carriage crank bushing is worn and the
crank
is consequently "floppy" -- but it still works."

That, to me, would be a sign of a machine that has been ridden hard and
put
away wet. Check the ways for wear, and the cross slide as well. Look
for any gouges, where chips may have ruined the surfaces, and
inconsistent
form of the ways. Keep in mind that if the ways are not good, the
machine, at best, won't be very reliable for anything but rough work.

Harold

I should mention Harold..that My 15x52 clausing had worn crank
bushings, yet the machine is tight, has NO wear on the ways and will
hold very good tolerences. Personally I think the way they built it
lead to premature wear.

Gunner

Certainly a possibility. The crank handles on my Graziano have worn
terribly, but I attribute that to soft steel on soft steel, and no
lubrication. I, long ago, made a new one for the carriage and the cross
slide is overdue. The lathe is in good condition aside from a couple tenths
runout in the spindle.

Frankly, it's hard to judge the condition of a machine without running it.

Harold

On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 20:54:56 -0800, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 12:03:37 -0800, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Andrew H. Wakefield" wrote in message
.. .
snip-------
Any further words of wisdom before I go to look at the lathe will be
most
appreciated!

Andy



" He said that the only thing that was not quite
right on the lathe is that the carriage crank bushing is worn and the
crank
is consequently "floppy" -- but it still works."

That, to me, would be a sign of a machine that has been ridden hard and
put
away wet. Check the ways for wear, and the cross slide as well. Look
for any gouges, where chips may have ruined the surfaces, and
inconsistent
form of the ways. Keep in mind that if the ways are not good, the
machine, at best, won't be very reliable for anything but rough work.

Harold

I should mention Harold..that My 15x52 clausing had worn crank
bushings, yet the machine is tight, has NO wear on the ways and will
hold very good tolerences. Personally I think the way they built it
lead to premature wear.

Gunner

Certainly a possibility. The crank handles on my Graziano have worn
terribly, but I attribute that to soft steel on soft steel, and no
lubrication. I, long ago, made a new one for the carriage and the cross
slide is overdue. The lathe is in good condition aside from a couple tenths
runout in the spindle.

Frankly, it's hard to judge the condition of a machine without running it.

Harold

Indeed.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 12:03:37 -0800, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Andrew H. Wakefield" wrote in message
. ..
snip-------
Any further words of wisdom before I go to look at the lathe will be
most
appreciated!

Andy



" He said that the only thing that was not quite
right on the lathe is that the carriage crank bushing is worn and the
crank
is consequently "floppy" -- but it still works."

That, to me, would be a sign of a machine that has been ridden hard and
put
away wet. Check the ways for wear, and the cross slide as well. Look
for any gouges, where chips may have ruined the surfaces, and inconsistent
form of the ways. Keep in mind that if the ways are not good, the
machine, at best, won't be very reliable for anything but rough work.

Harold

I should mention Harold..that My 15x52 clausing had worn crank
bushings, yet the machine is tight, has NO wear on the ways and will
hold very good tolerences. Personally I think the way they built it
lead to premature wear.

Your Clausing probably has flame hardened ways - does the Cinncinnati?

Mike

"Mike Henry" wrote in message
...

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 12:03:37 -0800, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Andrew H. Wakefield" wrote in message
...
snip-------
Any further words of wisdom before I go to look at the lathe will be
most
appreciated!

Andy



" He said that the only thing that was not quite
right on the lathe is that the carriage crank bushing is worn and the
crank
is consequently "floppy" -- but it still works."

That, to me, would be a sign of a machine that has been ridden hard and
put
away wet. Check the ways for wear, and the cross slide as well. Look
for any gouges, where chips may have ruined the surfaces, and
inconsistent
form of the ways. Keep in mind that if the ways are not good, the
machine, at best, won't be very reliable for anything but rough work.

Harold

I should mention Harold..that My 15x52 clausing had worn crank
bushings, yet the machine is tight, has NO wear on the ways and will
hold very good tolerences. Personally I think the way they built it
lead to premature wear.

Your Clausing probably has flame hardened ways - does the Cinncinnati?

Yes, it does.


Mike

On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 10:15:16 -0600, "Mike Henry"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 12:03:37 -0800, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Andrew H. Wakefield" wrote in message
...
snip-------
Any further words of wisdom before I go to look at the lathe will be
most
appreciated!

Andy



" He said that the only thing that was not quite
right on the lathe is that the carriage crank bushing is worn and the
crank
is consequently "floppy" -- but it still works."

That, to me, would be a sign of a machine that has been ridden hard and
put
away wet. Check the ways for wear, and the cross slide as well. Look
for any gouges, where chips may have ruined the surfaces, and inconsistent
form of the ways. Keep in mind that if the ways are not good, the
machine, at best, won't be very reliable for anything but rough work.

Harold

I should mention Harold..that My 15x52 clausing had worn crank
bushings, yet the machine is tight, has NO wear on the ways and will
hold very good tolerences. Personally I think the way they built it
lead to premature wear.

Your Clausing probably has flame hardened ways - does the Cinncinnati?

Mike


No idea. The OP was going to look at it yesterday, so I guess we will
all have to wait with bated breath for his report.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 10:15:16 -0600, "Mike Henry"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 12:03:37 -0800, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Andrew H. Wakefield" wrote in message
T...
snip-------
Any further words of wisdom before I go to look at the lathe will be
most
appreciated!

Andy



" He said that the only thing that was not quite
right on the lathe is that the carriage crank bushing is worn and the
crank
is consequently "floppy" -- but it still works."

That, to me, would be a sign of a machine that has been ridden hard and
put
away wet. Check the ways for wear, and the cross slide as well.
Look
for any gouges, where chips may have ruined the surfaces, and
inconsistent
form of the ways. Keep in mind that if the ways are not good, the
machine, at best, won't be very reliable for anything but rough work.

Harold

I should mention Harold..that My 15x52 clausing had worn crank
bushings, yet the machine is tight, has NO wear on the ways and will
hold very good tolerences. Personally I think the way they built it
lead to premature wear.

Your Clausing probably has flame hardened ways - does the Cinncinnati?

Mike


No idea. The OP was going to look at it yesterday, so I guess we will
all have to wait with bated breath for his report.


Yes, it does -- I forgot to include that in my report