"Tips" sounds a little pretentious, like I'm about to tell you guys how
to do things. What this is, is a couple of things that I've tried and
have worked well, so I'll sha

- drill press key. Even though I had a special place for it (a hole
drilled in the top of the belt cover), I was always setting it down
somewhere else and then wondering where-the-hell it was. My solution
was to put it on a leash - a spring-loaded, retracting leash:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpkey.jpg
It's always there, and it always goes back to its place by itself!

- drill press vise. I rarely clamp work to the drill press table and
even more rarely do I clamp the drill press vise to the table. It is
such a nuisance bolting it through the table slots and getting it
adjusted. The easier way that I found was to mount the vise to a plate,
which can be easily clamped and adjusted:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpvise.jpg
The vise is mounted with studs welded to the plate.

- task light. Bench work sometimes requires much brighter light. I've
tried various forms which either didn't reach far enough, or didn't stay
in place, etc. I cobbled together this one from the junk pile:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/light.jpg
The lamp is a 50w mini halogen, the "silver" shaft is a goose neck, and
the mount is a locking ball joint, which works *really* well. Highly
adjustable, long reach, stays put, and swings out of the way when not is
use.

- bench vise. My bench is fairly high (38") and with the vise on top,
the vise jaws were really too high. So I mounted the vise outboard and
lower:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/vise.jpg
It's not obvious from the picture, but the top of the jaws is just below
the bench top, so the whole bench top is unobstructed. And it doesn't
show the angle iron that goes back and attaches it to the wall. I also
took off those damned t-handle swivel-tightening nuts and replaced them
with hex nuts. It's much easier & faster to put a socket on them than
to fiddle with those t-handles.

- wrenches. Commonly used wrenches should be readily available and
readily identifiable. I hang my most-used box and combo wrenches, in
size order. They are hung on 2 panels, one for SAE, the other for
metric. The front panel is hinged like a door:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/wrenches.jpg


Bob

I really like your 'tip' regarding drill press vise! Now I can machine off
the flanges (which are not flat and consequently
hard to clamp, etc) drill and tap into bottom of the vise, and mount a plate
such as you suggest. Shouldn't be too hard to have
the plate edges parallel and square to the vise jaws.

Ace


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
"Tips" sounds a little pretentious, like I'm about to tell you guys how to
do things. What this is, is a couple of things that I've tried and have
worked well, so I'll sha

- drill press key. Even though I had a special place for it (a hole
drilled in the top of the belt cover), I was always setting it down
somewhere else and then wondering where-the-hell it was. My solution was
to put it on a leash - a spring-loaded, retracting leash:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpkey.jpg
It's always there, and it always goes back to its place by itself!

- drill press vise. I rarely clamp work to the drill press table and even
more rarely do I clamp the drill press vise to the table. It is such a
nuisance bolting it through the table slots and getting it adjusted. The
easier way that I found was to mount the vise to a plate, which can be
easily clamped and adjusted:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpvise.jpg
The vise is mounted with studs welded to the plate.

- task light. Bench work sometimes requires much brighter light. I've
tried various forms which either didn't reach far enough, or didn't stay
in place, etc. I cobbled together this one from the junk pile:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/light.jpg
The lamp is a 50w mini halogen, the "silver" shaft is a goose neck, and
the mount is a locking ball joint, which works *really* well. Highly
adjustable, long reach, stays put, and swings out of the way when not is
use.

- bench vise. My bench is fairly high (38") and with the vise on top, the
vise jaws were really too high. So I mounted the vise outboard and lower:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/vise.jpg
It's not obvious from the picture, but the top of the jaws is just below
the bench top, so the whole bench top is unobstructed. And it doesn't
show the angle iron that goes back and attaches it to the wall. I also
took off those damned t-handle swivel-tightening nuts and replaced them
with hex nuts. It's much easier & faster to put a socket on them than to
fiddle with those t-handles.

- wrenches. Commonly used wrenches should be readily available and
readily identifiable. I hang my most-used box and combo wrenches, in size
order. They are hung on 2 panels, one for SAE, the other for metric. The
front panel is hinged like a door:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/wrenches.jpg


Bob

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
"Tips" sounds a little pretentious, like I'm about to tell you guys how
to do things. What this is, is a couple of things that I've tried and
have worked well, so I'll sha

- drill press key. Even though I had a special place for it (a hole
drilled in the top of the belt cover), I was always setting it down
somewhere else and then wondering where-the-hell it was. My solution
was to put it on a leash - a spring-loaded, retracting leash:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpkey.jpg
It's always there, and it always goes back to its place by itself!

snapping fingers NOW I know why I never threw away that belt-clip key
retractor from the 1970s!

- drill press vise. I rarely clamp work to the drill press table and
even more rarely do I clamp the drill press vise to the table. It is
such a nuisance bolting it through the table slots and getting it
adjusted. The easier way that I found was to mount the vise to a plate,
which can be easily clamped and adjusted:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpvise.jpg
The vise is mounted with studs welded to the plate.

Excellent idea. I've been grappling with the same problem.

- task light. Bench work sometimes requires much brighter light. I've
tried various forms which either didn't reach far enough, or didn't stay
in place, etc. I cobbled together this one from the junk pile:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/light.jpg
The lamp is a 50w mini halogen, the "silver" shaft is a goose neck, and
the mount is a locking ball joint, which works *really* well. Highly
adjustable, long reach, stays put, and swings out of the way when not is
use.

Where did you get the gooseneck that long?
How about the locking balljoint?

- wrenches. Commonly used wrenches should be readily available and
readily identifiable. I hang my most-used box and combo wrenches, in
size order. They are hung on 2 panels, one for SAE, the other for
metric. The front panel is hinged like a door:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/wrenches.jpg

I keep a complete, good set in a rollaround project toolbox.
I have an accumulation of numerous duplicates (various brands) of each
size, which are divided up into several more-or-less complete sets that
hang on pegboard over each bench. I rarely have to rob from the toolbox,
which is reserved for non-bench repairs, such as cars.

Great!

Wayne

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
"Tips" sounds a little pretentious, like I'm about to tell you guys how
to do things. What this is, is a couple of things that I've tried and
have worked well, so I'll sha

- drill press key. Even though I had a special place for it (a hole
drilled in the top of the belt cover), I was always setting it down
somewhere else and then wondering where-the-hell it was. My solution
was to put it on a leash - a spring-loaded, retracting leash:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpkey.jpg
It's always there, and it always goes back to its place by itself!

- drill press vise. I rarely clamp work to the drill press table and
even more rarely do I clamp the drill press vise to the table. It is
such a nuisance bolting it through the table slots and getting it
adjusted. The easier way that I found was to mount the vise to a plate,
which can be easily clamped and adjusted:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpvise.jpg
The vise is mounted with studs welded to the plate.

- task light. Bench work sometimes requires much brighter light. I've
tried various forms which either didn't reach far enough, or didn't stay
in place, etc. I cobbled together this one from the junk pile:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/light.jpg
The lamp is a 50w mini halogen, the "silver" shaft is a goose neck, and
the mount is a locking ball joint, which works *really* well. Highly
adjustable, long reach, stays put, and swings out of the way when not is
use.

- bench vise. My bench is fairly high (38") and with the vise on top,
the vise jaws were really too high. So I mounted the vise outboard and
lower:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/vise.jpg
It's not obvious from the picture, but the top of the jaws is just below
the bench top, so the whole bench top is unobstructed. And it doesn't
show the angle iron that goes back and attaches it to the wall. I also
took off those damned t-handle swivel-tightening nuts and replaced them
with hex nuts. It's much easier & faster to put a socket on them than
to fiddle with those t-handles.

- wrenches. Commonly used wrenches should be readily available and
readily identifiable. I hang my most-used box and combo wrenches, in
size order. They are hung on 2 panels, one for SAE, the other for
metric. The front panel is hinged like a door:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/wrenches.jpg


Bob

Hey Bob,

Great stuff, all good tips!

Someone else has asked where you got the long "goose-neck". I picked
up a couple that look pretty much like that last week at Princess
Auto, made as replacements for a parts washer. I had intended to do
similar with just the goose-neck, but now I see the "ball joint", I'll
do the same as you have done.

Another handy thing along the same lines are those popular living-room
floor lamps, that have a halogen bulb in the top sending light towards
the ceiling, and a mini-spot on a goose-neck at a height set to fetch
light over your shoulder when reading. I picked up two over the last
year or so at garage sales for about 5 bucks each because the base and
centre sections had got loose and wobbled, and would have looked ugly
in the front room the way they were taped up and patched, but perfect
for the shop.

I keep a set of cheapie 3/8" to 3/4" wrenches, and a set of ball-end
Allen wrenches, at each lathe and mill. Handy like a glove! Hang
them individually on the board so they "stand out" if missing.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 11:53:58 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

"Tips" sounds a little pretentious, like I'm about to tell you guys how
to do things. What this is, is a couple of things that I've tried and
have worked well, so I'll sha

- drill press key. Even though I had a special place for it (a hole
drilled in the top of the belt cover), I was always setting it down
somewhere else and then wondering where-the-hell it was. My solution
was to put it on a leash - a spring-loaded, retracting leash:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpkey.jpg
It's always there, and it always goes back to its place by itself!

- drill press vise. I rarely clamp work to the drill press table and
even more rarely do I clamp the drill press vise to the table. It is
such a nuisance bolting it through the table slots and getting it
adjusted. The easier way that I found was to mount the vise to a plate,
which can be easily clamped and adjusted:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpvise.jpg
The vise is mounted with studs welded to the plate.

- task light. Bench work sometimes requires much brighter light. I've
tried various forms which either didn't reach far enough, or didn't stay
in place, etc. I cobbled together this one from the junk pile:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/light.jpg
The lamp is a 50w mini halogen, the "silver" shaft is a goose neck, and
the mount is a locking ball joint, which works *really* well. Highly
adjustable, long reach, stays put, and swings out of the way when not is
use.

- bench vise. My bench is fairly high (38") and with the vise on top,
the vise jaws were really too high. So I mounted the vise outboard and
lower:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/vise.jpg
It's not obvious from the picture, but the top of the jaws is just below
the bench top, so the whole bench top is unobstructed. And it doesn't
show the angle iron that goes back and attaches it to the wall. I also
took off those damned t-handle swivel-tightening nuts and replaced them
with hex nuts. It's much easier & faster to put a socket on them than
to fiddle with those t-handles.

- wrenches. Commonly used wrenches should be readily available and
readily identifiable. I hang my most-used box and combo wrenches, in
size order. They are hung on 2 panels, one for SAE, the other for
metric. The front panel is hinged like a door:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/wrenches.jpg


Bob

Good tips. You can also get the goosenecks at Radio Shack - microphone
mounts.

Where do you get and how much is the ball joint?

k.
"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
"Tips" sounds a little pretentious, like I'm about to tell you guys how to
do things. What this is, is a couple of things that I've tried and have
worked well, so I'll sha

- drill press key. Even though I had a special place for it (a hole
drilled in the top of the belt cover), I was always setting it down
somewhere else and then wondering where-the-hell it was. My solution was
to put it on a leash - a spring-loaded, retracting leash:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpkey.jpg
It's always there, and it always goes back to its place by itself!

- drill press vise. I rarely clamp work to the drill press table and even
more rarely do I clamp the drill press vise to the table. It is such a
nuisance bolting it through the table slots and getting it adjusted. The
easier way that I found was to mount the vise to a plate, which can be
easily clamped and adjusted:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpvise.jpg
The vise is mounted with studs welded to the plate.

- task light. Bench work sometimes requires much brighter light. I've
tried various forms which either didn't reach far enough, or didn't stay
in place, etc. I cobbled together this one from the junk pile:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/light.jpg
The lamp is a 50w mini halogen, the "silver" shaft is a goose neck, and
the mount is a locking ball joint, which works *really* well. Highly
adjustable, long reach, stays put, and swings out of the way when not is
use.

- bench vise. My bench is fairly high (38") and with the vise on top, the
vise jaws were really too high. So I mounted the vise outboard and lower:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/vise.jpg
It's not obvious from the picture, but the top of the jaws is just below
the bench top, so the whole bench top is unobstructed. And it doesn't
show the angle iron that goes back and attaches it to the wall. I also
took off those damned t-handle swivel-tightening nuts and replaced them
with hex nuts. It's much easier & faster to put a socket on them than to
fiddle with those t-handles.

- wrenches. Commonly used wrenches should be readily available and
readily identifiable. I hang my most-used box and combo wrenches, in size
order. They are hung on 2 panels, one for SAE, the other for metric. The
front panel is hinged like a door:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/wrenches.jpg


Bob

About the gooseneck and ball joint for the task light: I had both of
them laying around. I got them at the dump, one of those
I-might-be-able-to-use-that things that later come in handy. The
gooseneck was from a mini halogen floor lamp, IIRC. I have no idea what
the ball joint was originally used for. Bob

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
SNIP! .. I have no idea what
the ball joint was originally used for. Bob

It was used for a small hobby-type vise. I have one.

GWE

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 13:04:59 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Rex
B quickly quoth:

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
was to put it on a leash - a spring-loaded, retracting leash:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/dpkey.jpg
It's always there, and it always goes back to its place by itself!

snapping fingers NOW I know why I never threw away that belt-clip key
retractor from the 1970s!

I had an extra rare earth magnet which went on the face of the DP.
Now the key stands out in front of my eyes when I walk up to the
thing, so it's really handy.


--
Action is eloquence. --William Shakespeare (1564-1616)

Larry Jaques wrote:
I had an extra rare earth magnet which went on the face of the DP.
Now the key stands out in front of my eyes when I walk up to the
thing, so it's really handy.

I have several of those that I use for chuck keys on the lathes.
The DP has a plastic clip for the chuck key, so it's generally found its
way back there so far. But I like the retractable part better,
especially since the key is spring-loaded so it cannot be left in the chuck.

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 13:22:49 -0600, Rex B
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:
I had an extra rare earth magnet which went on the face of the DP.
Now the key stands out in front of my eyes when I walk up to the
thing, so it's really handy.

I have several of those that I use for chuck keys on the lathes.
The DP has a plastic clip for the chuck key, so it's generally found its
way back there so far. But I like the retractable part better,
especially since the key is spring-loaded so it cannot be left in the chuck.
Mine hangs down behind the column on a very light chain ( spring
loaded also )
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Oh! I forgot my best tip: drill bit storage. I have a 29 piece drill
bit set that came in a box with 3 pop-up holders. I kept it on a shelf,
so it wasn't at the drill press, and it was very frustrating trying to
read the drill sizes in the 2nd & 3rd holders. So I cut the holders out
of the box, sanded the tops of the size numbers to make them stand out,
and mounted the holders *above* my drill press:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/drills.jpg

VERY handy. Bob

In article ,
Bob Engelhardt wrote:

Oh! I forgot my best tip: drill bit storage. I have a 29 piece drill
bit set that came in a box with 3 pop-up holders. I kept it on a shelf,
so it wasn't at the drill press, and it was very frustrating trying to
read the drill sizes in the 2nd & 3rd holders. So I cut the holders out
of the box, sanded the tops of the size numbers to make them stand out,
and mounted the holders *above* my drill press:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/drills.jpg

VERY handy. Bob

My own contribution: Those little pairs of wrenches that come with
die grinders, sanders, etc. I got one of those separable key ring
thingies, and put one wrench on one ring, another wrench on the other
ring. Die grinder wrenches are both blue, cutoff tool wrenches are both
red, and so on. All the larger sizes on one ring, all the smaller on
the other. When I need to use them, separate it in the middle, use the
right color, do whatever, put it back together, and store. I'll have to
repaint the wrenches soon, though. Spray paint on oily metal doesn't
stick well. (:
Also, I work in a shop with two different QC couplers all over the
place. 1/2" automotive, and 3/8" automotive. (the 1/2 inch fittings
are for the big tire guns that pretty much never get used these days) I
got a double check valve, plugged one of each plug into the inlets, and
screwed the outlet to my air hose. Now I just flip it around to
whatever fitting I need without digging around for an adapter. It's a
big lump, but it's at the wall, so no biggie.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net

--Put a piece of peel-and-stick measuring tape on top of one of
the jaws on your bench vise. Very handy when having to hacksaw a bolt
by a specific amount.

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Nihil curo de ista tua
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : stulta superstitione...
http://www.nmpproducts.com/intro.htm
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

On 27 Dec 2005 17:26:14 GMT, steamer wrote:

--Put a piece of peel-and-stick measuring tape on top of one of
the jaws on your bench vise. Very handy when having to hacksaw a bolt
by a specific amount.

Peel and stick measuring tape? Ive never even heard of it. Sounds
right handy.

Got a link?

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 22:31:59 GMT, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On 27 Dec 2005 17:26:14 GMT, steamer wrote:

--Put a piece of peel-and-stick measuring tape on top of one of
the jaws on your bench vise. Very handy when having to hacksaw a bolt
by a specific amount.

Peel and stick measuring tape? Ive never even heard of it. Sounds
right handy.

Got a link?

Gunner

The only place I've ever seen it (or used it) is in sporting goods
stores for measuring fish. Skinny stuff for your rod, wider for your
gunwale. Nowadays, I just throw 'em down on the aluminum yardstick.

Pete Keillor

You take one lousy week off to join Thorax at the Elvis concert, and this
is what happens: Pete Keillor writes on Tue, 27
Dec 2005 19:37:19 -0500 in rec.crafts.metalworking :
On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 22:31:59 GMT, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On 27 Dec 2005 17:26:14 GMT, steamer wrote:

--Put a piece of peel-and-stick measuring tape on top of one of
the jaws on your bench vise. Very handy when having to hacksaw a bolt
by a specific amount.

Peel and stick measuring tape? Ive never even heard of it. Sounds
right handy.

Got a link?

Gunner

The only place I've ever seen it (or used it) is in sporting goods
stores for measuring fish. Skinny stuff for your rod, wider for your
gunwale. Nowadays, I just throw 'em down on the aluminum yardstick.

Any "good" hardware store will have them. I know Starrett make's em.
"Measuring tape - Adhesive" in the Enco catalog.

Other option would be to pick up the cheap/freebie paper tapes
sometimes given away in furniture or fabric stores. Not as durable ... but
cheaper.

Pete Keillor

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

pyotr filipivich wrote:
You take one lousy week off to join Thorax at the Elvis concert, and this
is what happens: Pete Keillor writes on Tue, 27
Dec 2005 19:37:19 -0500 in rec.crafts.metalworking :

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 22:31:59 GMT, Gunner Asch
wrote:


On 27 Dec 2005 17:26:14 GMT, steamer wrote:


--Put a piece of peel-and-stick measuring tape on top of one of
the jaws on your bench vise. Very handy when having to hacksaw a bolt
by a specific amount.

Peel and stick measuring tape? Ive never even heard of it. Sounds
right handy.

Got a link?

Gunner


The only place I've ever seen it (or used it) is in sporting goods
stores for measuring fish. Skinny stuff for your rod, wider for your
gunwale. Nowadays, I just throw 'em down on the aluminum yardstick.


Any "good" hardware store will have them. I know Starrett make's em.
"Measuring tape - Adhesive" in the Enco catalog.

Yes but beware that they are delicate and do not take well to any sort of
wear or abrasion. --Winston

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 22:31:59 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner
Asch quickly quoth:

On 27 Dec 2005 17:26:14 GMT, steamer wrote:

--Put a piece of peel-and-stick measuring tape on top of one of
the jaws on your bench vise. Very handy when having to hacksaw a bolt
by a specific amount.

Peel and stick measuring tape? Ive never even heard of it. Sounds
right handy.

Got a link?

www.harborfreight.com $0.99 #93279 (plastic, fewer graduations)
www.leevalley.com 48" $7.50 25U02.02, 72" $8.95
steel bench tape with fine Imperial and metric markings.

HELP!

I have an xmas check burning a hole in my pocket
AND
HF just put the TIG on sale for $199 again.
AND
HFUSA just sent a 20% Off Coupon which can be used in addition to the
sale price!
=
Medford Trek Tomorrow!

What do youse guys suggest for use (stocking up on tungsten electrodes
and accessories) for this beastie?


------------------------------------------------------
I survived the D.C. Blizzard of 2000...from California.
----------------------------
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
--------------------------------------------------

If you are in town after 4 stop by the house and I will happily set you up
with an assortment of tungstens etc. Or call my cell and I can meet ya at
the house.
Glenn
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 22:31:59 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner
Asch quickly quoth:

On 27 Dec 2005 17:26:14 GMT, steamer wrote:

--Put a piece of peel-and-stick measuring tape on top of one of
the jaws on your bench vise. Very handy when having to hacksaw a bolt
by a specific amount.

Peel and stick measuring tape? Ive never even heard of it. Sounds
right handy.

Got a link?

www.harborfreight.com $0.99 #93279 (plastic, fewer graduations)
www.leevalley.com 48" $7.50 25U02.02, 72" $8.95
steel bench tape with fine Imperial and metric markings.

HELP!

I have an xmas check burning a hole in my pocket
AND
HF just put the TIG on sale for $199 again.
AND
HFUSA just sent a 20% Off Coupon which can be used in addition to the
sale price!
=
Medford Trek Tomorrow!

What do youse guys suggest for use (stocking up on tungsten electrodes
and accessories) for this beastie?


------------------------------------------------------
I survived the D.C. Blizzard of 2000...from California.
----------------------------
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
--------------------------------------------------

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 20:53:02 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 22:31:59 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner
Asch quickly quoth:

On 27 Dec 2005 17:26:14 GMT, steamer wrote:

--Put a piece of peel-and-stick measuring tape on top of one of
the jaws on your bench vise. Very handy when having to hacksaw a bolt
by a specific amount.

Peel and stick measuring tape? Ive never even heard of it. Sounds
right handy.

Got a link?

www.harborfreight.com $0.99 #93279 (plastic, fewer graduations)
www.leevalley.com 48" $7.50 25U02.02, 72" $8.95
steel bench tape with fine Imperial and metric markings.

Thanks!


HELP!

I have an xmas check burning a hole in my pocket
AND
HF just put the TIG on sale for $199 again.
AND
HFUSA just sent a 20% Off Coupon which can be used in addition to the
sale price!
=
Medford Trek Tomorrow!

What do youse guys suggest for use (stocking up on tungsten electrodes
and accessories) for this beastie?

1/16" and 3/32". Red (thoriated). Assuming it has the proper collets.

Gunner



------------------------------------------------------
I survived the D.C. Blizzard of 2000...from California.
----------------------------
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"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

Gunner Asch wrote:
On 27 Dec 2005 17:26:14 GMT, steamer wrote:

--Put a piece of peel-and-stick measuring tape on top of one of
the jaws on your bench vise. Very handy when having to hacksaw a bolt
by a specific amount.

Peel and stick measuring tape? Ive never even heard of it. Sounds
right handy.

Got a link?

Gunner

Almost any woodworking supply place will have them.
...lew...

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 21:37:26 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Glenn" quickly quoth:

If you are in town after 4 stop by the house and I will happily set you up
with an assortment of tungstens etc. Or call my cell and I can meet ya at
the house.

Many thanks, Glenn. I sent email to that effect.

I recall that you used the regulator/bottle off your MIG.
And someone else here had a problem with the HF regulator
if my recollector recollects correctly. Tips, please?


--
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Larry Jaques wrote:

HELP!

I have an xmas check burning a hole in my pocket
AND
HF just put the TIG on sale for $199 again.
AND
HFUSA just sent a 20% Off Coupon which can be used in addition to the
sale price!
=
Medford Trek Tomorrow!

Aw, Larry, why did you hafta go and post that. sigh.

Rex
....with that 20% off coupon in my wallet, and $275 from the sale of my
little MIG welder.

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
"Tips" sounds a little pretentious, like I'm about to tell you guys how
to do things. What this is, is a couple of things that I've tried and
have worked well, so I'll sha
[...]

I will offer my humble idea, which is just a divided box that can
absorb the twenty or thirty old incomplete socket sets you have laying
around...

http://home.att.net/~galt_57/sockets.jpg

On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 08:56:25 GMT, Gunner Asch
wrote:


What do youse guys suggest for use (stocking up on tungsten electrodes
and accessories) for this beastie?

1/16" and 3/32". Red (thoriated). Assuming it has the proper collets.

That'll work. If your torch will accept them, gas lenses can be
useful for welding inside corners. They permit more stickout on the
tungsten. They're only a few bux each.

I was just researching tungstens last night. I read that 1.5%
lanthanated is supplanting thorium (red) because people worry about
the mild radioactivity -- particularly the dust from grinding. I
don't worry about that because I don't weld for a living, but I found
it interesting that a couple of reports indicate that 1.5% La always
worked as well as 2% Th and in many cases worked better.

I wondered: why 1.5% rather than more? The answer seems to be that
it runs most like 2% Th so folks don't have to change or adjust their
automated processes.

The purpose of the rare earth oxides (Th, La, Ce, or Zr) is to
enable easier arcstarts, steadier arcs and cooler running on the
tungsten. Therefore, I muse, 2% La might be even better for we who
just "do what works" each time in a highly un-automated fashion.

I ordered some 2% La in .040", 1/16" and 3/32" last night. I'll
report on my findings if anyone is interested. The beneficial effect
I expect will be most noticed at low currents (below 80 amps) on
small stuff.

I didn't get any 1/8" because I very seldom TIG at much over 150 amps
with DCSP, and the Zirconiated tungstens I have work really well on
AC for aluminum which is where (if anywhere) I ever push the pedal
to the metal.

Dave wrote:

I will offer my humble idea, which is just a divided box that can
absorb the twenty or thirty old incomplete socket sets you have laying
around...

http://home.att.net/~galt_57/sockets.jpg

Dave
i have that problem, in spades.
thanks for the suggestion

Rex

On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 09:11:40 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Rex
B quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:

HELP!

I have an xmas check burning a hole in my pocket
AND
HF just put the TIG on sale for $199 again.
AND
HFUSA just sent a 20% Off Coupon which can be used in addition to the
sale price!
=
Medford Trek Tomorrow!

Aw, Larry, why did you hafta go and post that. sigh.

tee hee I got mine. How about you? bseg
Was $299, on sale for $199, less $40 for the coupon. Love it!


Rex
...with that 20% off coupon in my wallet, and $275 from the sale of my
little MIG welder.

There ya go. I didn't have time to drop by the welding supply place
for a tank of argon so I haven't tried my new toy yet. I also have to
get another 220v twist-lock plug and a length of 1/4" tubing (for
argon) and barb for it. With the regulator/flow gauge and a 2'
extension air blow gun ($2.99), it came to $195 and change. What does
a rental/purchase tank of argon cost?


--
REMEMBER: First you pillage, then you burn.
---
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On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 11:24:52 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Don
Foreman quickly quoth:

On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 08:56:25 GMT, Gunner Asch
wrote:


What do youse guys suggest for use (stocking up on tungsten electrodes
and accessories) for this beastie?

1/16" and 3/32". Red (thoriated). Assuming it has the proper collets.

That'll work. If your torch will accept them, gas lenses can be
useful for welding inside corners. They permit more stickout on the
tungsten. They're only a few bux each.

I got a flexible head torch from Glenn (Thanks again, sir) which
came with a gas lens. Can't wait to start practicing with the new
little beastie. While the welder looked new, the torch tip was a
used one and all the boxes had been opened and taped with magic
mending tape, though there was no REFURB sticker anywhere. Hmmm,
maybe I should have bought that $35 warranty after all...


I was just researching tungstens last night. I read that 1.5%
lanthanated is supplanting thorium (red) because people worry about
the mild radioactivity -- particularly the dust from grinding. I
don't worry about that because I don't weld for a living, but I found
it interesting that a couple of reports indicate that 1.5% La always
worked as well as 2% Th and in many cases worked better.

I wondered: why 1.5% rather than more? The answer seems to be that
it runs most like 2% Th so folks don't have to change or adjust their
automated processes.

Good tip!


The purpose of the rare earth oxides (Th, La, Ce, or Zr) is to
enable easier arcstarts, steadier arcs and cooler running on the
tungsten. Therefore, I muse, 2% La might be even better for we who
just "do what works" each time in a highly un-automated fashion.

That feels -far- too familiar. g


I ordered some 2% La in .040", 1/16" and 3/32" last night. I'll
report on my findings if anyone is interested. The beneficial effect
I expect will be most noticed at low currents (below 80 amps) on
small stuff.

Please do, Don.


I didn't get any 1/8" because I very seldom TIG at much over 150 amps
with DCSP, and the Zirconiated tungstens I have work really well on
AC for aluminum which is where (if anywhere) I ever push the pedal
to the metal.

The little HF TIG is rated best at 1/16" tungstens, 130A max.


--
REMEMBER: First you pillage, then you burn.
---
http://diversify.com NoteSHADES(tm) laptop privacy/glare guards

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 20:53:02 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 22:31:59 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner
Asch quickly quoth:

On 27 Dec 2005 17:26:14 GMT, steamer wrote:


I have an xmas check burning a hole in my pocket AND
HF just put the TIG on sale for $199 again.
AND HFUSA just sent a 20% Off Coupon which can be used in addition to the
sale price!
=
Medford Trek Tomorrow!

Is the HF TIG unit a decent one??how does it compare to a similar Miller or
Esab or Lincoln??

On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 23:45:25 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bradford Chaucer quickly quoth:

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 20:53:02 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 22:31:59 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner
Asch quickly quoth:

On 27 Dec 2005 17:26:14 GMT, steamer wrote:


I have an xmas check burning a hole in my pocket AND
HF just put the TIG on sale for $199 again.
AND HFUSA just sent a 20% Off Coupon which can be used in addition to the
sale price!
=
Medford Trek Tomorrow!

Is the HF TIG unit a decent one??how does it compare to a similar Miller or
Esab or Lincoln??

Yes, it's a decent box, BUT...

HF vs. Miller, et al.
---------------------
scratch-start vs. HiFreq-start,
dc vs. ac/dc,
130A vs. 180Amps,
$299 (regular or $199 on sale) vs. $1,299.

There really are no similar Millers or Esabs that I've seen. All the
rest are 5x the price and have a lot more features. But the little HF
TIG is a nice, basic inverter unit and is well worth the price to a
newbie like me. I prefer the bacony hiss to the bacon frying of a MIG,
and the output with a skilled hand (which isn't hard to master) is
great.

I give the HF TIG "2 Thumbs Up" (after 15 minutes on one at Glenn's;
mine'll be running by this weekend at the latest.)


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On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 15:01:03 GMT, Ignoramus6309
wrote:


If the only arc starting method is scratch start, I am not sure just
how one could tig weld at all. I am sure that I am missing something,
but my experience scratch starting tig welds was that the electrode
would stick and also become contaminated.

i
The trick in the scratch, like starting 7018 which WILL stick until
you master the technique. Using a copper scratch block might help.

It's a very light quick skritch, barely touching or grazing the
metal. With steel, you might get a very slight contamination of the
tungsten but it'll burn off very quickly without screwing up the
point much. If the electrode sticks you're not doing it right -- and
you must regrind the tungsten before trying again.

Even 80 volts OCV will spark a small enough gap, particularly with a
sharply-pointed electrode and particularly with one doped with rare
earth oxide that has a lower work function than pure tungsten.
It's all in the skritch.

Larry Jaques wrote:
Rex
...with that 20% off coupon in my wallet, and $275 from the sale of my
little MIG welder.


There ya go. I didn't have time to drop by the welding supply place
for a tank of argon so I haven't tried my new toy yet. I also have to
get another 220v twist-lock plug and a length of 1/4" tubing (for
argon) and barb for it. With the regulator/flow gauge and a 2'
extension air blow gun ($2.99), it came to $195 and change. What does
a rental/purchase tank of argon cost?

I still have the argon tank from the MIG, and it's full.
So what else do I need - besides the welder? Does it come with a gas
regulator & hose?

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 13:53:24 -0600, Rex B
wrote:



Larry Jaques wrote:
Rex
...with that 20% off coupon in my wallet, and $275 from the sale of my
little MIG welder.


There ya go. I didn't have time to drop by the welding supply place
for a tank of argon so I haven't tried my new toy yet. I also have to
get another 220v twist-lock plug and a length of 1/4" tubing (for
argon) and barb for it. With the regulator/flow gauge and a 2'
extension air blow gun ($2.99), it came to $195 and change. What does
a rental/purchase tank of argon cost?

I still have the argon tank from the MIG, and it's full.
So what else do I need - besides the welder? Does it come with a gas
regulator & hose?

Only Pure argon. C25 mig mix eats up your tungstens rapidly.

Been there, done that.

Gunner, who now has 6 tanks of various mixes


"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 15:01:03 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus6309 quickly quoth:

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 06:53:57 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

I give the HF TIG "2 Thumbs Up" (after 15 minutes on one at Glenn's;
mine'll be running by this weekend at the latest.)

Larry, what HF item number are you talking about?

If the only arc starting method is scratch start, I am not sure just
how one could tig weld at all. I am sure that I am missing something,
but my experience scratch starting tig welds was that the electrode
would stick and also become contaminated.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91811

It has a solenoid inside for the gas and possibly the arc circuit.
I found this out when I pulled the case this afternoon when the gas
didn't come out when I turned on the valve. blush

Well, the 120cf tank cost $203, a hose and barb fittings ran it up
another $5, and the unit with regulator ran $193, so for just an RCH
over $400, I have a nice little TIG unit.

I managed to catch a piece of plywood on fire (Hmm, what's that
wood smell?) while testing it today but I joined the 1/8" steel
plate to a 1/16" steel plate alright. Time to hacksaw & TIG together
a rolling welding station for the little machine.


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On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 13:53:24 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Rex
B quickly quoth:



Larry Jaques wrote:
Rex
...with that 20% off coupon in my wallet, and $275 from the sale of my
little MIG welder.


There ya go. I didn't have time to drop by the welding supply place
for a tank of argon so I haven't tried my new toy yet. I also have to
get another 220v twist-lock plug and a length of 1/4" tubing (for
argon) and barb for it. With the regulator/flow gauge and a 2'
extension air blow gun ($2.99), it came to $195 and change. What does
a rental/purchase tank of argon cost?

I still have the argon tank from the MIG, and it's full.
So what else do I need - besides the welder? Does it come with a gas
regulator & hose?

No, both are additional. It needed a reg @ $32.95, one 1/4" barbed
1/4" male pipefitting, a hose to connect the reg to the machine,
and a 220v plug for the end of the power cable. I use NEMA L6-20
twist-locks.

The price in town for argon tanks was $267 (155cf @ Industrial Source)
vs. $203 (120cf @ Airgas), or $9.75/mo plus $48.34 to fill. Rental
agreements are limited to current accounts, and signing up for an
account would take a few days, so I wouldn't get the tank until
sometime next year. I ended up buying one as the cost differential was
only about a year, plus I had the bucks in pocket now and my instant
gratification factor was high.

Next up, -practice- and finding neighbors who want welding done so
I can recoup my costs while having fun.


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On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 17:08:18 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

$48.34 to fill


**** me running. I get em filled for $18

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

Ignoramus6309 wrote:
On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 16:55:58 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 15:01:03 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus6309 quickly quoth:


On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 06:53:57 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

I give the HF TIG "2 Thumbs Up" (after 15 minutes on one at Glenn's;
mine'll be running by this weekend at the latest.)

Larry, what HF item number are you talking about?

If the only arc starting method is scratch start, I am not sure just
how one could tig weld at all. I am sure that I am missing something,
but my experience scratch starting tig welds was that the electrode
would stick and also become contaminated.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91811

It has a solenoid inside for the gas and possibly the arc circuit.
I found this out when I pulled the case this afternoon when the gas
didn't come out when I turned on the valve. blush

Well, the 120cf tank cost $203, a hose and barb fittings ran it up
another $5, and the unit with regulator ran $193, so for just an RCH
over $400, I have a nice little TIG unit.


Very nice! I ended spending about as much, by the way, on all the
stick welding cables (80 ft 1 gauge), hoses, foot pedal, blah blah.


I managed to catch a piece of plywood on fire (Hmm, what's that
wood smell?) while testing it today but I joined the 1/8" steel
plate to a 1/16" steel plate alright. Time to hacksaw & TIG together
a rolling welding station for the little machine.

Lighting the ply on fire tells me you might want to make the cart Second
and a welding TABLE first?



Outstanding. I am very happy for you. Show us some weld pictures...

i

On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 05:53:20 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus6309 quickly quoth:

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 16:55:58 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
Well, the 120cf tank cost $203, a hose and barb fittings ran it up
another $5, and the unit with regulator ran $193, so for just an RCH
over $400, I have a nice little TIG unit.

Very nice! I ended spending about as much, by the way, on all the
stick welding cables (80 ft 1 gauge), hoses, foot pedal, blah blah.

You don't like portable boxes, eh? g


I managed to catch a piece of plywood on fire (Hmm, what's that
wood smell?) while testing it today but I joined the 1/8" steel
plate to a 1/16" steel plate alright. Time to hacksaw & TIG together
a rolling welding station for the little machine.

Outstanding. I am very happy for you. Show us some weld pictures...

Soon. Soon. (Gimme zum time to practice, OK?)


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On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 02:52:39 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner
Asch quickly quoth:

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 17:08:18 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

$48.34 to fill

**** me running. I get em filled for $18

Industrial Source fills them for $35, and I'll check the
Medford sources for cheaper fills, but as yet, I have no
idea how often I'll need a fill. I'll also check with the
local community college on better pricing. There's a
comprehensive welding course taught there for several grand.

I like your argon price, though.


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