The other night I needed to whip out a bunch of 1" rollers to fix a
chip conveyor.

Well, I got them made but it did remind me that I really don't have a
good grounding in the proper use of a parting tool.

The tool was 3/32 hhs, and was ground to an angle so that the right
side entered the part first.

I didn't think that was right and likely the machinist on days may
have ground it that way for other purposes but it got the job done.

So, how about some tips on proper use/setup/feeds/ect?

Thanks in advance,

Wes


--
Reply to:
Whiskey Echo Sierra Sierra AT Alpha Charlie Echo Golf Romeo Oscar Paul dot Charlie Charlie
Lycos address is a spam trap.

wrote in message
...
The other night I needed to whip out a bunch of 1" rollers to fix a
chip conveyor.

Well, I got them made but it did remind me that I really don't have a
good grounding in the proper use of a parting tool.

The tool was 3/32 hhs, and was ground to an angle so that the right
side entered the part first.

I didn't think that was right and likely the machinist on days may
have ground it that way for other purposes but it got the job done.

So, how about some tips on proper use/setup/feeds/ect?

Thanks in advance,

Wes



If I am reading you correctly you are using a high speed "T" type parting
blade. The only place for these blades is in a museum. The insert type
(iscar or others) are so vastly superior it's hard to believe. I remember
the old days of parting with those old blades, and squinting and tensing up,
just waiting for the inivitable moment that the blade would grab and either
break or tear the workpiece out of the machine. Years ago my brother worked
third shift (alone) parting 3" bar on a lathe with the new insert style
tools. Just for fun he kept increasing the infeed one step at a time,just to
see the limit of the tools ability. He was very surprised how fast he could
plow through before the tool broke.He insisted on me changing to the insert
system and I feel it was one of the best upgrades I have ever seen.

Dixon

On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 09:25:13 -0500, wrote:

The other night I needed to whip out a bunch of 1" rollers to fix a
chip conveyor.

Well, I got them made but it did remind me that I really don't have a
good grounding in the proper use of a parting tool.

The tool was 3/32 hhs, and was ground to an angle so that the right
side entered the part first.

I didn't think that was right and likely the machinist on days may
have ground it that way for other purposes but it got the job done.

So, how about some tips on proper use/setup/feeds/ect?

Thanks in advance,

Wes

The reason the tip is angled is so that the finished part cuts to
center leaving no "tit". Sometimes it really works.
Randy
--
Randy Replogle

http://www.chem.purdue.edu/machine

Hmmmm........I wonder how they ever parted items then before the
advent of insert tooling? I have never used a T shape parting tool
but use the typical sort of V shaped parting tool in HSS as well as
insert type all the itme......I sure would not like my HSS parting
tools to get put in a museum, as I use em too much.

If the high end of the angle wa to the right, the finished part that
was dropped should be relatively free of a nib.
Sometimes it helps to grind the sides (both sides) of parting tool
blade so they have a long taper, not much but some so as the parting
tool is entering the work the sides are free adn clear from the
cutting edge back. A small nick or V ground in the very end of the
cutting tools working edge will also help to some degree to curl up
the material as its removed. Lots of lube certainly helps, for keeping
it cool and friction free. I find power feed to be a much better
method than trying to free hand it which a lot of folks do since they
are a bit nerveous on powerfeed parting. Usually on a lot of stock you
may even have to change feeds and speeds 2 or three times until its
parted off. Its also importasnt that the parting tool is 90 deg to
stock being parted.





On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 10:51:56 -0500, "Dixon"
wrote:

===
wrote in message
...
=== The other night I needed to whip out a bunch of 1" rollers to fix a
=== chip conveyor.
===
=== Well, I got them made but it did remind me that I really don't have a
=== good grounding in the proper use of a parting tool.
===
=== The tool was 3/32 hhs, and was ground to an angle so that the right
=== side entered the part first.
===
=== I didn't think that was right and likely the machinist on days may
=== have ground it that way for other purposes but it got the job done.
===
=== So, how about some tips on proper use/setup/feeds/ect?
===
=== Thanks in advance,
===
=== Wes
===
===
===
===If I am reading you correctly you are using a high speed "T" type parting
===blade. The only place for these blades is in a museum. The insert type
===(iscar or others) are so vastly superior it's hard to believe. I remember
===the old days of parting with those old blades, and squinting and tensing up,
===just waiting for the inivitable moment that the blade would grab and either
===break or tear the workpiece out of the machine. Years ago my brother worked
===third shift (alone) parting 3" bar on a lathe with the new insert style
===tools. Just for fun he kept increasing the infeed one step at a time,just to
===see the limit of the tools ability. He was very surprised how fast he could
===plow through before the tool broke.He insisted on me changing to the insert
===system and I feel it was one of the best upgrades I have ever seen.
===
===Dixon
===


==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder"
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o

How deep a cut can an insert make into material? I am using a "T" type for
cutting wood dowels in a metal lathe that are some times 1.5" in diameter
and I thought you could only cut about a .5" with an insert.
Dick

--
Richard H. Neighbors
Building and repairing fine billiard cues for real pool players at
affordable prices.
Over 35 years exp. Located in Cincinnati OH
ph.# 513 233-7499
e-mail
web site http://www.dickiecues.com
"Dixon" wrote in message
. ..

wrote in message
...
The other night I needed to whip out a bunch of 1" rollers to fix a
chip conveyor.

Well, I got them made but it did remind me that I really don't have a
good grounding in the proper use of a parting tool.

The tool was 3/32 hhs, and was ground to an angle so that the right
side entered the part first.

I didn't think that was right and likely the machinist on days may
have ground it that way for other purposes but it got the job done.

So, how about some tips on proper use/setup/feeds/ect?

Thanks in advance,

Wes



If I am reading you correctly you are using a high speed "T" type parting
blade. The only place for these blades is in a museum. The insert type
(iscar or others) are so vastly superior it's hard to believe. I remember
the old days of parting with those old blades, and squinting and tensing
up, just waiting for the inivitable moment that the blade would grab and
either break or tear the workpiece out of the machine. Years ago my
brother worked third shift (alone) parting 3" bar on a lathe with the new
insert style tools. Just for fun he kept increasing the infeed one step at
a time,just to see the limit of the tools ability. He was very surprised
how fast he could plow through before the tool broke.He insisted on me
changing to the insert system and I feel it was one of the best upgrades I
have ever seen.

Dixon

"~Roy" wrote in message
...
Hmmmm........I wonder how they ever parted items then before the
advent of insert tooling? I have never used a T shape parting tool
but use the typical sort of V shaped parting tool in HSS as well as
insert type all the itme......I sure would not like my HSS parting
tools to get put in a museum, as I use em too much.

I didn't say the hs blades didn't work, just that I have never seen such an
improvment in any other tooling system, probably due to the unusual geometry
of the top face of the carbide parting insert type. I also wondered how they
used to move heavy objects before the wheel was invented!

Dixon




If the high end of the angle wa to the right, the finished part that
was dropped should be relatively free of a nib.
Sometimes it helps to grind the sides (both sides) of parting tool
blade so they have a long taper, not much but some so as the parting
tool is entering the work the sides are free adn clear from the
cutting edge back. A small nick or V ground in the very end of the
cutting tools working edge will also help to some degree to curl up
the material as its removed. Lots of lube certainly helps, for keeping
it cool and friction free. I find power feed to be a much better
method than trying to free hand it which a lot of folks do since they
are a bit nerveous on powerfeed parting. Usually on a lot of stock you
may even have to change feeds and speeds 2 or three times until its
parted off. Its also importasnt that the parting tool is 90 deg to
stock being parted.





On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 10:51:56 -0500, "Dixon"
wrote:

===
wrote in message
.. .
=== The other night I needed to whip out a bunch of 1" rollers to fix a
=== chip conveyor.
===
=== Well, I got them made but it did remind me that I really don't have
a
=== good grounding in the proper use of a parting tool.
===
=== The tool was 3/32 hhs, and was ground to an angle so that the right
=== side entered the part first.
===
=== I didn't think that was right and likely the machinist on days may
=== have ground it that way for other purposes but it got the job done.
===
=== So, how about some tips on proper use/setup/feeds/ect?
===
=== Thanks in advance,
===
=== Wes
===
===
===
===If I am reading you correctly you are using a high speed "T" type
parting
===blade. The only place for these blades is in a museum. The insert
type
===(iscar or others) are so vastly superior it's hard to believe. I
remember
===the old days of parting with those old blades, and squinting and
tensing up,
===just waiting for the inivitable moment that the blade would grab and
either
===break or tear the workpiece out of the machine. Years ago my brother
worked
===third shift (alone) parting 3" bar on a lathe with the new insert
style
===tools. Just for fun he kept increasing the infeed one step at a
time,just to
===see the limit of the tools ability. He was very surprised how fast he
could
===plow through before the tool broke.He insisted on me changing to the
insert
===system and I feel it was one of the best upgrades I have ever seen.
===
===Dixon
===


==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder"
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o

On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 09:25:13 -0500, wrote:
The other night I needed to whip out a bunch of 1" rollers to fix a
chip conveyor.
Well, I got them made but it did remind me that I really don't have a
good grounding in the proper use of a parting tool.
The tool was 3/32 hhs, and was ground to an angle so that the right
side entered the part first.
I didn't think that was right and likely the machinist on days may
have ground it that way for other purposes but it got the job done.
So, how about some tips on proper use/setup/feeds/ect?
Thanks in advance,
Wes
=======================================
Cutting off [or parting off for our GB readers] is one of the
more arcane and black-art aspects of lathe machining.

First about the angle grind. This was ground at an angle so the
the cut-off pip or tit would be to the left. While this may be
a "good thing" for high volume production I find that it causes
problems for for two reasons: (1) it is difficult to get the c/o
tool set exactly on center and (2) it generates a chip that is
wider than the width of the groove, which can be a major source
of problems.

Plain c/o tool blanks are a major PITA [at least for me] and I
have had much better results with the "T" style cutoff with a
radius in the top of the "T" as this tend to produce a chip that
curls in on itself thus is slightly less in width than the slot
allowing easier exit.

I suggest grinding the tool straight across with about a 5 degree
[effective] front clearance angle. The side clearance angles are
set by the shape of the tool blank. Because of the "dish" at the
top of the "T" there is a few degrees of effective side rake or
hook which seems to help a great deal.

A suitable holder will make a huge difference in performance. I
suggest a holder with 3 to 5 degrees of back rake. This will
require that you increase the measured front clearence by this
amount to get the suggested 5 degrees clearance.

As I indicated before the tool must be set to be exactly on
center and exactly at right angles to the axis of ther part. I
find it is wothwhile to keep a new "dead center" with a sharp
point just for use as a reference for setting the tool height.

A critical area which most people do not consider is the increase
in width of the c/o tool with heat. In normal turning this does
not cause a problem, but because of the c/o tool is cutting in a
deep slot and bounded on both sides, any appreciable increase in
heat and thus tool width will cause problems. A continuous
stream of lubricant/coolant is a necessity, both to keep the tool
cool and to flush out the chips. I find that for home use a
"windex" type spray bottle that can be adjusted to shoot a stream
is very handy. While you can use regular black sulphur [or other
heavy duty] cutting oil [try cutting with paint (not lacquer)
thinner [aka varsol] if too this is too thick], I find that water
soluable seems to work better in this application, most likely
because of its better cooling action. If you want to avoid
buying a 55 gallon drum you can get "water pump lubricant" at
most car parts stores/counters which is the same thing. This
will leave an oily protective film when the water evaporates.
One tip -- if you have hard water in your area use distilled.
This will help avoid the scum/deposit that hard water causes with
water soluable coolant.

One of the best things I have found to improve cutting off (in
addition to using the 'T" style cutter) is to fabricate an
"upside-down" tool holder which mounts at the rear of the cross
slide which incorporates 3 to 5 degrees of back-rake. The chips
clear the groove much better and the rigidity of the operation,
which is always important, seems much better.

You can see pictures of this at
http://www.mcduffee-associates.us/ma...g/rearcoth.htm
With this tool holder and a T-15 blade we have "parted off" 1.5
inch diameter pre-hardened [stress-proof] shafting with no
difficulty [but a large amount of "pucker"]. If it would be
helpful I will send you a dwg [autocad] file of this tool holder
sized to fit an Emco compact 10. The location of the slot for
the c/o blade must be adjusted for the center height of your
lathe and the desired amount of backrake. In our case a maximum
blade extension of 1_1/8 inches was used, allowing up to a 1 inch
depth of cut or a 2 inch solid bar.

You also need to remember that cutting off involves a thin tool
with a large amount of overhang which causes problems by itself.

Feeds and speeds are another thread. The heavier the feed the
thicker the chip and the more heat that is generated. The faster
the speed the more heat that is generated. With the upside down
holder and T-15 blades I have found that the highside RPM that
you would use for regular HS machining for the material and
diameter seems to provide a good starting point. Note that for
a given rpm the effective sfm will be the highest at the start of
the cut and decrease to zero at the exact center. The Emco
Compact 10 has only manual cross slide feed, but the general rule
seems to be to not let the tool rub as this cause heat, but to
keep the feed to the low side to produce thin chips and low heat.
[Stainless that workhardens is another topic] You should back off
the tool frequently to make sure the chips are clearing and to
allow the tool to cool down. Unless you are in a production
environment, the few minutes you save by maximizing the c/o
process are not worth the aggrivation.

While we used T-15 cutoff tools, this was because we received
several of these in some donated tooling from a screw machine
shop. Regular M2 seems to work as well for low volume usage and
has the benefit that it is easier to grind, is less brittle that
cobalt or carbide and thus less prone to corner chipping and
breakage. OBTW -- watch for corner wear and chipping/breakage
when parting off and sharpen the tool as soon as you notice this
or you notice that the machine seems to sound different or seems
to be working harder. It is *MUCH* quicker/cheaper to touch-up
the end of the tool and reset it than it is to correct a "crash"
which may involve a new tool and a scrapped part. Corner damage
is prone to occur at the start of the cut both because of
eccentric part location -- the tool digs in and because of
surface contamination -- rust. If you are using salvage
materials be careful of case hardened shafting.

I hope this helps.

According to :
The other night I needed to whip out a bunch of 1" rollers to fix a
chip conveyor.

Well, I got them made but it did remind me that I really don't have a
good grounding in the proper use of a parting tool.

The tool was 3/32 hhs, and was ground to an angle so that the right
side entered the part first.

I didn't think that was right and likely the machinist on days may
have ground it that way for other purposes but it got the job done.

The purpose for that is so it parts the workpiece off from the
stock with a minimum "tit" left. Then, the remaining part of the
parting tool finishes facing the stock still in the spindle.

The disadvantage of this angle is that if there is a lot of
extension of tool (e.e. for a deep parting), the HSS tool can bend a
bit, resulting in an end which is concave on the workpiece, and convex
on the stock. But this can depend on what material you are machining.

Enjoy,
DoN.


--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Dixon wrote:

The insert type
(iscar or others) are so vastly superior it's hard to believe.

Sounds interesting!
How do they look like? Kind of a blade, with a sloped groove into what
you insert the insert with a special tool?

Nick
--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO - YADRO - Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige

"Dixon" wrote:

If I am reading you correctly you are using a high speed "T" type parting
blade. The only place for these blades is in a museum. The insert type
(iscar or others) are so vastly superior it's hard to believe.

Thats the kind. Our cnc's use inserted parting tools but for the
engine lathe in the maintenace / tool room all we have is HSS.

Wes
--
Reply to:
Whiskey Echo Sierra Sierra AT Alpha Charlie Echo Golf Romeo Oscar Paul dot Charlie Charlie
Lycos address is a spam trap.

F. George McDuffee wrote:


=======================================
Cutting off [or parting off for our GB readers] is one of the
more arcane and black-art aspects of lathe machining.

First about the angle grind. This was ground at an angle so the
the cut-off pip or tit would be to the left. While this may be
a "good thing" for high volume production I find that it causes
problems for for two reasons: (1) it is difficult to get the c/o
tool set exactly on center and (2) it generates a chip that is
wider than the width of the groove, which can be a major source
of problems.

I get the wide chip part. The tool had a very steep angle by my
thingking likely 30 degrees or more.

Plain c/o tool blanks are a major PITA [at least for me] and I
have had much better results with the "T" style cutoff with a
radius in the top of the "T" as this tend to produce a chip that
curls in on itself thus is slightly less in width than the slot
allowing easier exit.

I want to make sure I understand plain vs T. The HSS blank is wider
at top for about an 1/8's or so of an inch and the rest of the blank
is narrower. Is the plain a rectangular profile?

I suggest grinding the tool straight across with about a 5 degree
[effective] front clearance angle. The side clearance angles are
set by the shape of the tool blank. Because of the "dish" at the
top of the "T" there is a few degrees of effective side rake or
hook which seems to help a great deal.

I didn't notice the dish but I will look tomorrow when I get to work.

A suitable holder will make a huge difference in performance. I
suggest a holder with 3 to 5 degrees of back rake. This will
require that you increase the measured front clearence by this
amount to get the suggested 5 degrees clearance.

As I indicated before the tool must be set to be exactly on
center and exactly at right angles to the axis of ther part. I
find it is wothwhile to keep a new "dead center" with a sharp
point just for use as a reference for setting the tool height.

Thanks for that tip.

A critical area which most people do not consider is the increase
in width of the c/o tool with heat. In normal turning this does
not cause a problem, but because of the c/o tool is cutting in a
deep slot and bounded on both sides, any appreciable increase in
heat and thus tool width will cause problems. A continuous
stream of lubricant/coolant is a necessity, both to keep the tool
cool and to flush out the chips. I find that for home use a
"windex" type spray bottle that can be adjusted to shoot a stream
is very handy. While you can use regular black sulphur [or other
heavy duty] cutting oil [try cutting with paint (not lacquer)
thinner [aka varsol] if too this is too thick], I find that water
soluable seems to work better in this application, most likely
because of its better cooling action. If you want to avoid
buying a 55 gallon drum you can get "water pump lubricant" at
most car parts stores/counters which is the same thing. This
will leave an oily protective film when the water evaporates.
One tip -- if you have hard water in your area use distilled.
This will help avoid the scum/deposit that hard water causes with
water soluable coolant.

Our cnc's use water soluable. I was using sulfur oil with a brush.

One of the best things I have found to improve cutting off (in
addition to using the 'T" style cutter) is to fabricate an
"upside-down" tool holder which mounts at the rear of the cross
slide which incorporates 3 to 5 degrees of back-rake. The chips
clear the groove much better and the rigidity of the operation,
which is always important, seems much better.

You can see pictures of this at
http://www.mcduffee-associates.us/ma...g/rearcoth.htm
With this tool holder and a T-15 blade we have "parted off" 1.5
inch diameter pre-hardened [stress-proof] shafting with no
difficulty [but a large amount of "pucker"]. If it would be
helpful I will send you a dwg [autocad] file of this tool holder
sized to fit an Emco compact 10. The location of the slot for
the c/o blade must be adjusted for the center height of your
lathe and the desired amount of backrake. In our case a maximum
blade extension of 1_1/8 inches was used, allowing up to a 1 inch
depth of cut or a 2 inch solid bar.

Please send file. My anti spam address is at bottom. My other
address also works but I don't check that one also.

I saw the pictures on your site. The gent milling should have had
safety glasses on.

You also need to remember that cutting off involves a thin tool
with a large amount of overhang which causes problems by itself.

Feeds and speeds are another thread. The heavier the feed the
thicker the chip and the more heat that is generated. The faster
the speed the more heat that is generated. With the upside down
holder and T-15 blades I have found that the highside RPM that
you would use for regular HS machining for the material and
diameter seems to provide a good starting point. Note that for
a given rpm the effective sfm will be the highest at the start of
the cut and decrease to zero at the exact center. The Emco
Compact 10 has only manual cross slide feed, but the general rule
seems to be to not let the tool rub as this cause heat, but to
keep the feed to the low side to produce thin chips and low heat.
[Stainless that workhardens is another topic] You should back off
the tool frequently to make sure the chips are clearing and to
allow the tool to cool down. Unless you are in a production
environment, the few minutes you save by maximizing the c/o
process are not worth the aggrivation.


Thanks,

Wes
--
Reply to:
Whiskey Echo Sierra Sierra AT Alpha Charlie Echo Golf Romeo Oscar Paul dot Charlie Charlie
Lycos address is a spam trap.

On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 18:23:21 -0500, wrote:
snip
I saw the pictures on your site. The gent milling should have had
safety glasses on.
==========
You are correct, however in that picture Chris was not machining
but using a magnetic sine bar and a test indicator to get vise
adjusted to exactly 4 degrees for the back rake. This was
another instance where the set-up took longer than making the
cut. Students got a good review in [and in some cases
introduction to] trig to get everything laid out and the vise set
for 4 degrees.

My ISP is having problems with outgoing emails at the moment, but
as soon as they get the problems fixed I will send the drawing in
acad200f dwg format to you. As indicated in the cover email I
can save in most any acad dwg/dxf/dwf format if the 2004 dwg
format is a problem.

Uncle George

F. George McDuffee wrote:


My ISP is having problems with outgoing emails at the moment, but
as soon as they get the problems fixed I will send the drawing in
acad200f dwg format to you. As indicated in the cover email I
can save in most any acad dwg/dxf/dwf format if the 2004 dwg
format is a problem.

Well, Acad14 would be better.

Wes
--
Reply to:
Whiskey Echo Sierra Sierra AT Alpha Charlie Echo Golf Romeo Oscar Paul dot Charlie Charlie
Lycos address is a spam trap.

And you would really be surprised at how efficient and wll HSS parting
tools can actually part if they are properly ground and made to mimic
the geometry of an insert......I do agree inserts are a vast
improvement as it eliminates a lot of had profiling and time, and one
of the greatest things to ever come along, but I sure do not discount
HSS parting tools one little bit.

On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 12:10:29 -0500, "Dixon"
wrote:

===
==="~Roy" wrote in message
et...
=== Hmmmm........I wonder how they ever parted items then before the
=== advent of insert tooling? I have never used a T shape parting tool
=== but use the typical sort of V shaped parting tool in HSS as well as
=== insert type all the itme......I sure would not like my HSS parting
=== tools to get put in a museum, as I use em too much.
===
===I didn't say the hs blades didn't work, just that I have never seen such an
===improvment in any other tooling system, probably due to the unusual geometry
===of the top face of the carbide parting insert type. I also wondered how they
===used to move heavy objects before the wheel was invented!
===
===Dixon
===
===
===
===
=== If the high end of the angle wa to the right, the finished part that
=== was dropped should be relatively free of a nib.
=== Sometimes it helps to grind the sides (both sides) of parting tool
=== blade so they have a long taper, not much but some so as the parting
=== tool is entering the work the sides are free adn clear from the
=== cutting edge back. A small nick or V ground in the very end of the
=== cutting tools working edge will also help to some degree to curl up
=== the material as its removed. Lots of lube certainly helps, for keeping
=== it cool and friction free. I find power feed to be a much better
=== method than trying to free hand it which a lot of folks do since they
=== are a bit nerveous on powerfeed parting. Usually on a lot of stock you
=== may even have to change feeds and speeds 2 or three times until its
=== parted off. Its also importasnt that the parting tool is 90 deg to
=== stock being parted.
===
===
===
===
===
=== On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 10:51:56 -0500, "Dixon"
=== wrote:
===
======
wrote in message
om...
====== The other night I needed to whip out a bunch of 1" rollers to fix a
====== chip conveyor.
======
====== Well, I got them made but it did remind me that I really don't have
===a
====== good grounding in the proper use of a parting tool.
======
====== The tool was 3/32 hhs, and was ground to an angle so that the right
====== side entered the part first.
======
====== I didn't think that was right and likely the machinist on days may
====== have ground it that way for other purposes but it got the job done.
======
====== So, how about some tips on proper use/setup/feeds/ect?
======
====== Thanks in advance,
======
====== Wes
======
======
======
======If I am reading you correctly you are using a high speed "T" type
===parting
======blade. The only place for these blades is in a museum. The insert
===type
======(iscar or others) are so vastly superior it's hard to believe. I
===remember
======the old days of parting with those old blades, and squinting and
===tensing up,
======just waiting for the inivitable moment that the blade would grab and
===either
======break or tear the workpiece out of the machine. Years ago my brother
===worked
======third shift (alone) parting 3" bar on a lathe with the new insert
===style
======tools. Just for fun he kept increasing the infeed one step at a
===time,just to
======see the limit of the tools ability. He was very surprised how fast he
===could
======plow through before the tool broke.He insisted on me changing to the
===insert
======system and I feel it was one of the best upgrades I have ever seen.
======
======Dixon
======
===
===
=== ==============================================
=== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
=== "The original frugal ponder"
=== ~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o
===


==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder"
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o

The diameter of the stock you can part is governed by the length of
the blade the insert is held in and how ridgid it is. PArting 2" is
certainly possible and parting more is doable.....if there is
sufficient redgidty in the blade holder and blade itself....
On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 16:29:04 GMT, "Dick" wrote:

===How deep a cut can an insert make into material? I am using a "T" type for
===cutting wood dowels in a metal lathe that are some times 1.5" in diameter
===and I thought you could only cut about a .5" with an insert.
=== Dick


==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder"
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o