Is RustOleum any good for long term rust prevention?
I just got a can of primer and paint of it from HomeDepot but want to hear if anyone had
a bad experience with it.
I am going to use it to paint bare metal parts of my new metal grinder. I live near the
Pacific Ocean so rust is a big problem here.

Thanks

Alex wrote:
Is RustOleum any good for long term rust prevention?
I just got a can of primer and paint of it from HomeDepot but want to
hear if anyone had a bad experience with it.
I am going to use it to paint bare metal parts of my new metal grinder.
I live near the Pacific Ocean so rust is a big problem here.

Thanks
Well, I was in Hawaii about 20 years ago and my coworker was repainting
a car and got sidetracked. The fender he'd sanded to bare metal and put
a coat of rustoleum on started to rust through in about 6 months. He
was driving the car daily and had no covered parking.
Joe

None of the normal primers has any rust preventative effects, the
exception is the two part auto epoxy primer (might explain your friend's
rust problem). Standard Rustoleum is a pretty tough finish but not as
good as a powder coat or epoxy based enamels. I used the Rustoleum on my
trailer hitch, it gets exposed to the road salt spray all winter. After
3 winters it is starting to get some serious rust through but I'd
consider that to be pretty reasonable.

I have been using a "machinery enamel" in a rattle can from my local
farm supply store for all my machinery projects (light grey, battleship
gray, hunter green) and the Rustoleum semi gloss black for things like
Jeep bumpers and trailer hitchs.

Alex wrote:
Is RustOleum any good for long term rust prevention?
I just got a can of primer and paint of it from HomeDepot but want to
hear if anyone had a bad experience with it.
I am going to use it to paint bare metal parts of my new metal grinder.
I live near the Pacific Ocean so rust is a big problem here.

Thanks

It is important to prepare the surface if you expect long life. Wire brush
all surfaces with a cup brush on a angle grinder. Wipe down the surfaces
with a clean rag and paint thinner. Brush on at least two coats following
the instructions on the can. Brushing will always ensure a better bond with
standard enamels because you are stirring the paint onto the surface. When
you spray the paint lands on top of the metal or dirt and you hope it bonds.
The thicker the paint film the better generally so multiple coats are better
than one thick coat. Slow drying oil base paints are better than fast
drying.
On metal parts break all sharp corners with a grinder. A sharp edge does
not hold the paint film so you end up with a very thin layer of paint.
Moisture gets under the paint at the edges and corrosion lifts the paint
film off.
That's is all I can think of. Most people like to blame the paint but any
good paint job is in the preparation. Rustoleum is a good brand but you
will not get as durable finish with a spray can as with a can of Rustoleum
brushed on.
Randy

"Alex" wrote in message
. ..
Is RustOleum any good for long term rust prevention?
I just got a can of primer and paint of it from HomeDepot but want to hear
if anyone had
a bad experience with it.
I am going to use it to paint bare metal parts of my new metal grinder. I
live near the
Pacific Ocean so rust is a big problem here.

Thanks

"Alex" wrote in message
. ..
Is RustOleum any good for long term rust prevention?
I just got a can of primer and paint of it from HomeDepot but want to hear
if anyone had
a bad experience with it.
I am going to use it to paint bare metal parts of my new metal grinder. I
live near the
Pacific Ocean so rust is a big problem here.


It's probably OK if applied properly. The part where it says to clean
and degrease is really important and I admit I usually skimp on that
step. But if you want it to last you have to get it super clean and
grease free. Also, use a primer then then paint your color on top. But
don't just use a primer because they can absorb moisture and allow rust.

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 00:29:42 GMT, "R. Zimmerman"
wrote:

It is important to prepare the surface if you expect long life. Wire brush
all surfaces with a cup brush on a angle grinder. Wipe down the surfaces
with a clean rag and paint thinner. Brush on at least two coats following
the instructions on the can. Brushing will always ensure a better bond with
standard enamels because you are stirring the paint onto the surface. When
you spray the paint lands on top of the metal or dirt and you hope it bonds.
The thicker the paint film the better generally so multiple coats are better
than one thick coat. Slow drying oil base paints are better than fast
drying.
On metal parts break all sharp corners with a grinder. A sharp edge does
not hold the paint film so you end up with a very thin layer of paint.
Moisture gets under the paint at the edges and corrosion lifts the paint
film off.
That's is all I can think of. Most people like to blame the paint but any
good paint job is in the preparation. Rustoleum is a good brand but you
will not get as durable finish with a spray can as with a can of Rustoleum
brushed on.
Randy

Whut Randy said, augmented as follows:

The best prep for steel is sandblast, though wirebrush works pretty
well too.

After that, treat with a phosphoric acid based metal prep like Ditzler
579. You'll find that at a store that sells materials for autobody
work. It's about $10 for a quart. You dilute it 2:1 with water for
use, so a quart can treat a lot of metal.

It makes a huge difference. Slosh it on, wait a bit, hose it off.
Rust-Oleum then wets and flows out beautifully and adheres well.

I don't agree that brush is better than spray on properly prepped
metal, but I do agree that paint from a can intended for use with
brush is far better than paint from a rattlecan. I've had very
satisfactory results with Rust-Oleum sprayed on metal treated as
mentioned above and then shot (suitably thinned) with a spraygun.
Cheap import sprayguns work fine with Rust-Oleum.
Use Rust-Oleum thinner. That also seems to make a big difference.

Additional bonus: you can mix colors to get exactly what you want.

I have steel parts thus painted with Rust-Oleum that have been
outdoors for more than a decade with no rust.

What is their thinner, I've never seen it. I just bought a gallon and it
said to use Acetone, up to 15%. I've also seen recommendations to use
Naphtha (sp). How much do you thin it? What size tip does your gun have?
Mine is 1.5 and is too small.

Alex

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 00:29:42 GMT, "R. Zimmerman"
wrote:

It is important to prepare the surface if you expect long life. Wire
brush
all surfaces with a cup brush on a angle grinder. Wipe down the surfaces
with a clean rag and paint thinner. Brush on at least two coats
following
the instructions on the can. Brushing will always ensure a better bond
with
standard enamels because you are stirring the paint onto the surface.
When
you spray the paint lands on top of the metal or dirt and you hope it
bonds.
The thicker the paint film the better generally so multiple coats are
better
than one thick coat. Slow drying oil base paints are better than fast
drying.
On metal parts break all sharp corners with a grinder. A sharp edge does
not hold the paint film so you end up with a very thin layer of paint.
Moisture gets under the paint at the edges and corrosion lifts the paint
film off.
That's is all I can think of. Most people like to blame the paint but
any
good paint job is in the preparation. Rustoleum is a good brand but you
will not get as durable finish with a spray can as with a can of
Rustoleum
brushed on.
Randy

Whut Randy said, augmented as follows:

The best prep for steel is sandblast, though wirebrush works pretty
well too.

After that, treat with a phosphoric acid based metal prep like Ditzler
579. You'll find that at a store that sells materials for autobody
work. It's about $10 for a quart. You dilute it 2:1 with water for
use, so a quart can treat a lot of metal.

It makes a huge difference. Slosh it on, wait a bit, hose it off.
Rust-Oleum then wets and flows out beautifully and adheres well.

I don't agree that brush is better than spray on properly prepped
metal, but I do agree that paint from a can intended for use with
brush is far better than paint from a rattlecan. I've had very
satisfactory results with Rust-Oleum sprayed on metal treated as
mentioned above and then shot (suitably thinned) with a spraygun.
Cheap import sprayguns work fine with Rust-Oleum.
Use Rust-Oleum thinner. That also seems to make a big difference.

Additional bonus: you can mix colors to get exactly what you want.

I have steel parts thus painted with Rust-Oleum that have been
outdoors for more than a decade with no rust.

All my life I've been reading most technical books I've found and I've *never*
found a good primer on basic spray painting with a gun, much less HVLP. Anyone
know of a good way to learn this other than to blow a bunch of money and time
experimenting or taking an auto painting class?

GWE

AHS wrote:

What is their thinner, I've never seen it. I just bought a gallon and it
said to use Acetone, up to 15%. I've also seen recommendations to use
Naphtha (sp). How much do you thin it? What size tip does your gun have?
Mine is 1.5 and is too small.

Alex

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 00:29:42 GMT, "R. Zimmerman"
wrote:


It is important to prepare the surface if you expect long life. Wire

brush

all surfaces with a cup brush on a angle grinder. Wipe down the surfaces
with a clean rag and paint thinner. Brush on at least two coats

following

the instructions on the can. Brushing will always ensure a better bond

with

standard enamels because you are stirring the paint onto the surface.

When

you spray the paint lands on top of the metal or dirt and you hope it

bonds.

The thicker the paint film the better generally so multiple coats are

better

than one thick coat. Slow drying oil base paints are better than fast
drying.
On metal parts break all sharp corners with a grinder. A sharp edge does
not hold the paint film so you end up with a very thin layer of paint.
Moisture gets under the paint at the edges and corrosion lifts the paint
film off.
That's is all I can think of. Most people like to blame the paint but

any

good paint job is in the preparation. Rustoleum is a good brand but you
will not get as durable finish with a spray can as with a can of

Rustoleum

brushed on.
Randy

Whut Randy said, augmented as follows:

The best prep for steel is sandblast, though wirebrush works pretty
well too.

After that, treat with a phosphoric acid based metal prep like Ditzler
579. You'll find that at a store that sells materials for autobody
work. It's about $10 for a quart. You dilute it 2:1 with water for
use, so a quart can treat a lot of metal.

It makes a huge difference. Slosh it on, wait a bit, hose it off.
Rust-Oleum then wets and flows out beautifully and adheres well.

I don't agree that brush is better than spray on properly prepped
metal, but I do agree that paint from a can intended for use with
brush is far better than paint from a rattlecan. I've had very
satisfactory results with Rust-Oleum sprayed on metal treated as
mentioned above and then shot (suitably thinned) with a spraygun.
Cheap import sprayguns work fine with Rust-Oleum.
Use Rust-Oleum thinner. That also seems to make a big difference.

Additional bonus: you can mix colors to get exactly what you want.

I have steel parts thus painted with Rust-Oleum that have been
outdoors for more than a decade with no rust.

I restored a car recently and did the painting myself. I learned how to
do it by reading the forums at www.autobodystore.com and
www.paintucation.com. They sell some videotapes to help you out, also.
I also read a couple "How to Paint your own Car" books. But in the
end, until I got the spray gun in my hand and started spraying, I didn't
really learn much about actually pulling the trigger. The books are
good to teach you about prep work (cleaning and sanding) but they never
do a good job telling you what to look for when you are painting. It's
kind of hard because it is happening so fast that you just have to have
a feel for it.

If you can do a decent job with a spray can then you can do a decent job
with a paint gun. At first you'll probably make it to dry or too wet.
Too dry and you have texture in your paint. Too wet and you have runs.
But you have to start sometime so either live with the runs and
texture at first or grab some fenders or whatever to practice on.

Most people will get the hang of it almost as soon as they start, at
least good enough for spraying your welder or whatever, so don't worry
too much about it.


Grant Erwin wrote:
All my life I've been reading most technical books I've found and I've
*never* found a good primer on basic spray painting with a gun, much
less HVLP. Anyone know of a good way to learn this other than to blow a
bunch of money and time experimenting or taking an auto painting class?

On Sat, 27 Aug 2005 15:57:24 GMT, "AHS" wrote:

What is their thinner, I've never seen it. I just bought a gallon and it
said to use Acetone, up to 15%.

#7700 thinner -- but if they say acetone now it probably works OK.

I've also seen recommendations to use
Naphtha (sp). How much do you thin it? What size tip does your gun have?
Mine is 1.5 and is too small.

Thin it enough so it sprays well thru your gun. With a little
experience you'll know when it "looks right". I can't give you a
formula.

I've just used cheapo inport guns with Rusoleum. You might need to
turn up your air pressure.

Alex

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 00:29:42 GMT, "R. Zimmerman"
wrote:

It is important to prepare the surface if you expect long life. Wire
brush
all surfaces with a cup brush on a angle grinder. Wipe down the surfaces
with a clean rag and paint thinner. Brush on at least two coats
following
the instructions on the can. Brushing will always ensure a better bond
with
standard enamels because you are stirring the paint onto the surface.
When
you spray the paint lands on top of the metal or dirt and you hope it
bonds.
The thicker the paint film the better generally so multiple coats are
better
than one thick coat. Slow drying oil base paints are better than fast
drying.
On metal parts break all sharp corners with a grinder. A sharp edge does
not hold the paint film so you end up with a very thin layer of paint.
Moisture gets under the paint at the edges and corrosion lifts the paint
film off.
That's is all I can think of. Most people like to blame the paint but
any
good paint job is in the preparation. Rustoleum is a good brand but you
will not get as durable finish with a spray can as with a can of
Rustoleum
brushed on.
Randy

Whut Randy said, augmented as follows:

The best prep for steel is sandblast, though wirebrush works pretty
well too.

After that, treat with a phosphoric acid based metal prep like Ditzler
579. You'll find that at a store that sells materials for autobody
work. It's about $10 for a quart. You dilute it 2:1 with water for
use, so a quart can treat a lot of metal.

It makes a huge difference. Slosh it on, wait a bit, hose it off.
Rust-Oleum then wets and flows out beautifully and adheres well.

I don't agree that brush is better than spray on properly prepped
metal, but I do agree that paint from a can intended for use with
brush is far better than paint from a rattlecan. I've had very
satisfactory results with Rust-Oleum sprayed on metal treated as
mentioned above and then shot (suitably thinned) with a spraygun.
Cheap import sprayguns work fine with Rust-Oleum.
Use Rust-Oleum thinner. That also seems to make a big difference.

Additional bonus: you can mix colors to get exactly what you want.

I have steel parts thus painted with Rust-Oleum that have been
outdoors for more than a decade with no rust.

On Sat, 27 Aug 2005 09:05:16 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

All my life I've been reading most technical books I've found and I've *never*
found a good primer on basic spray painting with a gun, much less HVLP. Anyone
know of a good way to learn this other than to blow a bunch of money and time
experimenting or taking an auto painting class?

A class would probably be the best way,, though I've never taken one.
There are several books on Amazon, most of them inexpensive
paperbacks. Paint & Body Handbook, Don Taylor &Larry Hofer, HP
Books #204 has a couple of chapters on painting that might serve as
a good primer.

Like welding, there's no "magic answer". It does take some practice.

PPG/Ditzler used to have a lot of free literature that I found very
helpful, but I don't know if they still do. Auto paints are much
more expensive than something like Rustoleum, but if you follow the
detailed directions carefully for mixing and applying you can get
excellent results. A basecoat-clearcoat system is most expensive,
easiest to apply, and gives the best results. This would go over a
properly-prepped surface: metal-prep, epoxy primer, high-build
sanding primer, wetsand, perhaps a sealer, then color and then
clearcoat. I use cheap import guns for all but color and clearcoat.
The occasional burp, sputter, drip or sag don't matter much with
primer because you don't need to shoot it "wet" for gloss and you'll
wetsand the sanding primer anyway.

A good gun does help when you're after gloss. A cheap gun
sometimes works OK but a sputter or burp as the pot runs low can
screw up an otherwise good job. Good guns don't do that. They spray
consistently from full to nearly empty. My "good" guns were made
by Sharpe. They're considerably less pricey than Binks and
DeVilbiss, seem to work fine.

Basecoat-clearcoat is easier for a couple of reasons. You shoot the
color basecoat fairly dry. This avoids drips and sags, and it's a
lot easier to get metalflake uniform. The gloss comes from 3 or 4
full wet coats of clearcoat. It'll take some practice to get that
right -- good gloss and "definition of image" with no drips or sags.
It sure is gorgeous when you get it right, though. Seeing what was
an ugly old mutt of a car glow like a new Mercedes is quite a thrill.

I once bought my daughter a Rabbit for $300. It was in excellent
interior and mech condition and only 80K miles, but so ugly a
neighbor of the guy I bought it from thanked me for removing that toad
from their common alley. After I fixed all of the rust, replaced
the broken window and painted it, she had a friend tell her she wished
her daddy would let her paint her BMW like that. I had let her
choose the color at the paint store. She chose a blinding Chevy Geo
yellow. The thing looked like a glazed lemon drop. The paint cost
twice as much as the car. She drove it for several years.

Lacquer is easy to shoot and cheaper, but more work overall because
it must be "rubbed out" to get full gloss. Further, it doesn't wear
as well or resist UV as well. It can get dull in just a year or two
unless it's kept waxed and in a garage most of the time.

For jobs where you're not after a "showroom" finish, like steel
fabrications and machinery, RustOleum works fine. It is neither as
robust nor as glossy as good auto paint, but it's a whole lot cheaper
and it hides and protects OK.

For simple utility, I sometimes just shoot epoxy primer and let it go
at that. It's available in several colors (black, white, gray,
reddish and a sort of baby**** green-gray), dries to sort of a satin
finish. it adheres well and it's quite rugged. It's also pricey.
Use a cheap import gun because if you don't get it absolutely clean
afterwards you'll never get it clean after it cures and dries. Having
said that, I've been using the same $29.95 gun(s) for over 10 years.

For small jobs, a "jamb" gun works well. There are import copies of
the Binks jambgun. I've also used the little HVLP guns from HF (
$50) with good results. Less overspray, paint goes further.

Don't even think about shooting epoxy primer or urethane autopaint
without a good respirator and very good ventilation. If you can
smell it at all, you're not protected.

A phosphoric acid poison that I like to use for removing rust
chemically is naval jelly. It is a pink gel that you apply with an old
paintbrush. Don't take a whiff or you'll nose will not feel good for a
while. Paint the stuff on the rust and then wipe it off with an old
rag. I use it on machine ways and milling machine vises, etc where I
want to remove light rust but mechanical grinding or wire brushing
would destroy the ground and hardened ways. The scratches left by
abrasive removal also have a tendency to trap more dirt and rust in the
future.

Don Foreman wrote:
....
I once bought my daughter a Rabbit for $300. ... The paint cost
twice as much as the car. ...

Whoa - $600 for paint! Boy, I'd be so nervous that I'd never get it right.


For simple utility, I sometimes just shoot epoxy primer and let it go
at that. ...

How expensive is the primer?

Bob

On Sat, 27 Aug 2005 17:39:20 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
...
I once bought my daughter a Rabbit for $300. ... The paint cost
twice as much as the car. ...

Whoa - $600 for paint! Boy, I'd be so nervous that I'd never get it right.


For simple utility, I sometimes just shoot epoxy primer and let it go
at that. ...

How expensive is the primer?

I think it was about $20/quart last time I bought any -- but that was
a while ago. It could be twice that now. You must get two quarts:
a quart of paint and a quart of catalyst. No thinning is necessary.

I seem to remember a nasty and beautiful color - yellow green primer - I think
it was for Al only. That was something. It was Air force and SAC rated AOK.
Chromate ??
Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Grant Erwin wrote:
All my life I've been reading most technical books I've found and I've
*never* found a good primer on basic spray painting with a gun, much
less HVLP. Anyone know of a good way to learn this other than to blow a
bunch of money and time experimenting or taking an auto painting class?

GWE

AHS wrote:

What is their thinner, I've never seen it. I just bought a gallon and it
said to use Acetone, up to 15%. I've also seen recommendations to use
Naphtha (sp). How much do you thin it? What size tip does your gun
have?
Mine is 1.5 and is too small.

Alex

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 00:29:42 GMT, "R. Zimmerman"
wrote:


It is important to prepare the surface if you expect long life. Wire


brush

all surfaces with a cup brush on a angle grinder. Wipe down the
surfaces
with a clean rag and paint thinner. Brush on at least two coats


following

the instructions on the can. Brushing will always ensure a better bond


with

standard enamels because you are stirring the paint onto the surface.


When

you spray the paint lands on top of the metal or dirt and you hope it


bonds.

The thicker the paint film the better generally so multiple coats are


better

than one thick coat. Slow drying oil base paints are better than fast
drying.
On metal parts break all sharp corners with a grinder. A sharp edge
does
not hold the paint film so you end up with a very thin layer of paint.
Moisture gets under the paint at the edges and corrosion lifts the
paint
film off.
That's is all I can think of. Most people like to blame the paint but


any

good paint job is in the preparation. Rustoleum is a good brand but
you
will not get as durable finish with a spray can as with a can of


Rustoleum

brushed on.
Randy


Whut Randy said, augmented as follows:

The best prep for steel is sandblast, though wirebrush works pretty
well too.

After that, treat with a phosphoric acid based metal prep like Ditzler
579. You'll find that at a store that sells materials for autobody
work. It's about $10 for a quart. You dilute it 2:1 with water for
use, so a quart can treat a lot of metal.

It makes a huge difference. Slosh it on, wait a bit, hose it off.
Rust-Oleum then wets and flows out beautifully and adheres well.

I don't agree that brush is better than spray on properly prepped
metal, but I do agree that paint from a can intended for use with
brush is far better than paint from a rattlecan. I've had very
satisfactory results with Rust-Oleum sprayed on metal treated as
mentioned above and then shot (suitably thinned) with a spraygun.
Cheap import sprayguns work fine with Rust-Oleum.
Use Rust-Oleum thinner. That also seems to make a big difference.

Additional bonus: you can mix colors to get exactly what you want.

I have steel parts thus painted with Rust-Oleum that have been
outdoors for more than a decade with no rust.






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"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in
:

I seem to remember a nasty and beautiful color - yellow green primer -
I think it was for Al only. That was something. It was Air force
and SAC rated AOK. Chromate ??


Zinc Chromate


Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot
net NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



SNIP

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I had remembered today on the trip across the country :-)

Naturally with a nominal amount of thought process needed the mind crunches
other things.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Ken Moffett wrote:
"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in
:


I seem to remember a nasty and beautiful color - yellow green primer -
I think it was for Al only. That was something. It was Air force
and SAC rated AOK. Chromate ??



Zinc Chromate



Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot
net NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder




SNIP

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News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the
World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms -
Total Privacy via Encryption =----




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