I am having trouble getting a good look at my weld pool when TIG
welding. I know I am doing something wrong, so here's my technique in
detail. I am sitting at desk height. Using a Speedglas 9002x shade
12/13 with a 2.5 mag lens. I normally wear progressive eye glasses and
this power seems to allow me to see at any angle. I usually start on
the right of a horizontal (ex. butt weld) and move the torch over to
the left as the weld progresses.The problem doing it strictly from
left to right is that the torch moves in front of me and obstructs the
view.
To compensate, I have started to align the torch travel and subsequent
weld along a gradual line from higher right to lower left. This, in
theory should give
me a good look at the entire travel of the torch. Admittedly, I put my
head in close (about 10-12 inches) to see what's happening and soon
after start, the area seems be much too bright and undefined to really
see what's happening. I also occasionally get some reflected light in
the helmet which makes it even more difficult to get a good view.
I am relatively new to TIG and didn't or don't know what to expect, but
I need to find out techniques for a good unobstructed view of things.
Could my head be too close? Torch handling? Angle of torch? Height of
table? Some things to look out for?
Thanks,
Mike, in St. Louis

mclorson wrote:

I am having trouble getting a good look at my weld pool when TIG
welding. I know I am doing something wrong, so here's my technique in
detail. I am sitting at desk height. Using a Speedglas 9002x shade
12/13 with a 2.5 mag lens. I normally wear progressive eye glasses and
this power seems to allow me to see at any angle. I usually start on
the right of a horizontal (ex. butt weld) and move the torch over to
the left as the weld progresses.The problem doing it strictly from
left to right is that the torch moves in front of me and obstructs the
view.
To compensate, I have started to align the torch travel and subsequent
weld along a gradual line from higher right to lower left. This, in
theory should give
me a good look at the entire travel of the torch. Admittedly, I put my
head in close (about 10-12 inches) to see what's happening and soon
after start, the area seems be much too bright and undefined to really
see what's happening. I also occasionally get some reflected light in
the helmet which makes it even more difficult to get a good view.
I am relatively new to TIG and didn't or don't know what to expect, but
I need to find out techniques for a good unobstructed view of things.
Could my head be too close? Torch handling? Angle of torch? Height of
table? Some things to look out for?


Hi, I'm in the St. Louis area, too, and a relative newbie to TIG.

I have an off-brand auto-dark helmet, and I like to run it around 9 (on the
dial, which I have no way of knowing how calibrated that is).
You don't say what material, but I'm guessing aluminum. The problem
with aluminum is that is melts before it gets to even dull red heat. I
know this because I have watched aluminum being poured, and it
looks just like mercury. So, unlike welding steel, the weld pool will
not glow! That bit of knowledge took me a while to acquire!

So, you have to look for a difference in the surface texture of the material
to know where the molten pool is. You say you are using a 12/13 glass
and it is too bright? One trick is to extend the electrode enough so
you can
put the torch handle between your eyes and the electrode tip. The arc
and the glowing electrode tip will still illuminate the work, but you don't
want the tip of the electrode and the arc visible! You can't see the very
center of the arc, but if you hold the torch right, you can see the weld
puddle
pretty well. You may have to lighten up the shade a bit when doing it this
way. If you look at the arc itself, it will wash out everything to the
point
you can't discern the weld pool.

When you get the hang of it, you really don't need to see the puddle that
well, mostly you are looking a little ahead of it, to keep yourself on the
proper track. Also, you will start to move faster and faster as you
develop the
trick of backing up with the torch and dabbing the filler rod into the pool,
and then advancing again. I'm still developing these skills. I've gotten
mild steel down, but still learning stainless (not too bad) and aluminum
(pretty rough, still.)

Jon

"mclorson" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am having trouble getting a good look at my weld pool when TIG
welding. I know I am doing something wrong, so here's my technique in
detail. I am sitting at desk height. Using a Speedglas 9002x shade
12/13 with a 2.5 mag lens. I normally wear progressive eye glasses and
this power seems to allow me to see at any angle. I usually start on
the right of a horizontal (ex. butt weld) and move the torch over to
the left as the weld progresses.The problem doing it strictly from
left to right is that the torch moves in front of me and obstructs the
view.
To compensate, I have started to align the torch travel and subsequent
weld along a gradual line from higher right to lower left. This, in
theory should give
me a good look at the entire travel of the torch. Admittedly, I put my
head in close (about 10-12 inches) to see what's happening and soon
after start, the area seems be much too bright and undefined to really
see what's happening. I also occasionally get some reflected light in
the helmet which makes it even more difficult to get a good view.
I am relatively new to TIG and didn't or don't know what to expect, but
I need to find out techniques for a good unobstructed view of things.
Could my head be too close? Torch handling? Angle of torch? Height of
table? Some things to look out for?
Thanks,
Mike, in St. Louis


I can't give you any magic bullets.

What I can tell you from 32 years of welding is to find your own comfortable
position. When you weld, one of the most important variables is comfort.
Whether or not you are reaching. Trying to hold on with one hand. Welding
towards yourself so that when you get a ways into the weld, you run into
your chest. All sorts of things will affect a weld. Welding is like
drawing. If you got something in your hand or pressing on your hand other
than the pencil, the drawing isn't as easy.

Before you strike an arc, see if you can make it to the end of the weld
unobstructed. Make sure you aren't pulling or pushing or holding onto
something that will make you tired and start to get shaky before the end of
the weld.

This goes for all types of welding, not just TIG. Make an imaginary pass,
and visualize what you will be doing. Allow for that long TIG filler rod
sticking out and bend or shorten if necessary.

You might even try doing it without electricity to see what is getting in
your way. Do it with the flip visor up if you have one, or without a
helmet.

Do that, and you will probably answer most of your own questions.

HTH

Steve

Great comments. If it helps, I can't see the entire TIG pool, only the
front/leading portion. The cup is hiding the rest. It makes a big
difference in how far the tungsten is protruding. When I started, I
let the electrode protrude quite a bit to see what I was doing.
Recently, I've been able to reduce it without causing myself trouble.
Your comment about brightness is curious. I am at my desk right now,
but I don't recall anything being particularly bright when I am TIG
welding. I keep my head in pretty close (6-12") and don't have a
problem. Unhelpful, I am sure, but maybe something to compare against.
I do have a problem with focus, though. My focal range is fairly
narrow and I have to carefully move my head along as the puddle moves
to keep everything focused. Good luck.

In article 1123097631.382637.317070
@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com, knucklehead1002002
@yahoo.com says...

Using a Speedglas 9002x shade
12/13 with a 2.5 mag lens.

the area seems be much too bright and undefined to really
see what's happening. I also occasionally get some reflected light in
the helmet which makes it even more difficult to get a good view.

Have you tried a lighter shade? I wonder if what you're
interpreting as too bright is instead your eye focussing on
the arc, which you can see, as opposed to the puddle, which
is too dark. I find as my eyes age I tend to use a lighter
shade than what's recommended. I typically use a 9 or 10
shade for run of the mill stuff, from perhaps 75 to 150A,
and will switch to an 11 or 12 when welding aluminum over
200A. I've got a 7 for fine low current work, 35A. Any
shade will protect your eyes, so use what's most
comfortable.

I started TIG welding in my twenties, doing mostly
ornamental SS work for yachts, then didn't do much for 15
years or so, by which time my eyes were on the downhill
slide. I thought I had lost my touch til I adapted by using
a lighter shade and the magnifying lenses.

Ned Simmons

Your lens 12/13 is to dark plus any time you mag. an object you need to
ad more light.I have a speedglass
also and its to dark for tig welding . Cut back to a 10 shade or less .

"mclorson" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am having trouble getting a good look at my weld pool when TIG
welding. I know I am doing something wrong, so here's my technique in
detail. I am sitting at desk height. Using a Speedglas 9002x shade
12/13 with a 2.5 mag lens. I normally wear progressive eye glasses and
this power seems to allow me to see at any angle. I usually start on
the right of a horizontal (ex. butt weld) and move the torch over to
the left as the weld progresses.The problem doing it strictly from
left to right is that the torch moves in front of me and obstructs the
view.
To compensate, I have started to align the torch travel and subsequent
weld along a gradual line from higher right to lower left. This, in
theory should give
me a good look at the entire travel of the torch. Admittedly, I put my
head in close (about 10-12 inches) to see what's happening and soon
after start, the area seems be much too bright and undefined to really
see what's happening. I also occasionally get some reflected light in
the helmet which makes it even more difficult to get a good view.
I am relatively new to TIG and didn't or don't know what to expect, but
I need to find out techniques for a good unobstructed view of things.
Could my head be too close? Torch handling? Angle of torch? Height of
table? Some things to look out for?
Thanks,
Mike, in St. Louis



This reminds me. I haven't seen Ernie around here for a while. He give up on
newsgroups?

Lane

Just Me wrote:


This reminds me. I haven't seen Ernie around here for a while. He give up on
newsgroups?
He had an absolutely HORRIBLE accident with a press brake, and lost
several fingers. For a guy who works with his hands as much as he does,
that is a real nightmare. It may be hard for him to type as well as he
used to. He was on, sporadically, after the accident. He was very
helpful on TIG topics. He posted to sci.,engr.joining.welding on
Jul 22, so he is still around. Probably just cut back his net time.

Jon

You'd really struggle to see anything with a 12/13 filter in your
visor for sheet metal TIG welding. If memory serves me right, a 9
filter would be what I use when welding 0.9mm (about 35thou of inch)
stainless with less than 30A.

If your visor filter shade is too light, your get the message gently
because you can't see right when welding or when you take the visor
off - but that is due to slightly too bright light and not highly
dangerous UV, which is stopped by the glass of the filter, regardless
of how dark / light it is.

But yes, if you are doing sheet metal with any normal TIG, you will
want a 9 or 10 AWS filter. Your current choice is way out.

With TIG you have the advantage that with being a very clean process
you can keep your visor cover slips and the filter itself spotlessly
clean. You should actually have a lovely relaxed full view of the
welding area - you should be able to sit back and enjoy the
experience.


Some additional points as you learn to fly TIG:

I remember as an absolute newbie getting all crossed up including in
trying to see what's going on. Was especially getting tangled up
trying to fillet weld. Fillet is easiest for most processes (MIG,
stick) but more difficult with TIG. With TIG in fillet, you are
trying to get the torch into the corner, the shroud is blocking the
view, you have to get the tungsten in close, you have two surfaces to
crash it into, you have to get the filler rod under the tungsten
without crashing the filler into the tungsten, if you overfill and the
metal flows fast in a big front it can wash up and touch the tungsten.
It can get very exasperating. But it will come together with
practice. And all with cricking your neck trying to see what's going
on under the shroud.


With TIG, it's so clean you can sit relaxed at a table, so easy to put
in practice.

The advice "with TIG you weld at the lowest current at which the weld
can be run" will serve you well. The experienced folk may be able to
control with a bit more power on for fast run speed, but for you,
probably take pride in really neat small cool welds run quite quickly
with a small heat input (in kJ per mm of weld). The other advice I
would offer myself, something which worked for me was "let the machine
look after you; control the amps on the machine so you floor the foot
pedal and just control the starts and stops". When you know what a
good weld looks like, then you can give yourself "headroom" with the
current setting on the machine and control on the pedal. As I said -
that worked for me. Was controlling on smaller and smaller currents
as I improved my technique, taking of an amp or two at a time and
getting able to control delightfully small neat welds.

At the time I was learning TIG, I kept a running diary
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/richard...g/welding.html
My exasperation at times and my elation at passing standards are the
point I am making.

Richard Smith

mclorson wrote:
I am having trouble getting a good look at my weld pool when TIG
welding. I know I am doing something wrong, so here's my technique in
detail. I am sitting at desk height. Using a Speedglas 9002x shade
12/13 with a 2.5 mag lens. I normally wear progressive eye glasses and
this power seems to allow me to see at any angle. I usually start on
the right of a horizontal (ex. butt weld) and move the torch over to
the left as the weld progresses.The problem doing it strictly from
left to right is that the torch moves in front of me and obstructs the
view.
To compensate, I have started to align the torch travel and subsequent
weld along a gradual line from higher right to lower left. This, in
theory should give
me a good look at the entire travel of the torch. Admittedly, I put my
head in close (about 10-12 inches) to see what's happening and soon
after start, the area seems be much too bright and undefined to really
see what's happening. I also occasionally get some reflected light in
the helmet which makes it even more difficult to get a good view.
I am relatively new to TIG and didn't or don't know what to expect, but
I need to find out techniques for a good unobstructed view of things.
Could my head be too close? Torch handling? Angle of torch? Height of
table? Some things to look out for?
Thanks,
Mike, in St. Louis


I don't mean to be facetious, but is the lens darkening properly? It
sure sounds like it's not turned on or something..

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
ervers.com...
Just Me wrote:


This reminds me. I haven't seen Ernie around here for a while. He give up
on newsgroups?
He had an absolutely HORRIBLE accident with a press brake, and lost
several fingers. For a guy who works with his hands as much as he does,
that is a real nightmare. It may be hard for him to type as well as he
used to. He was on, sporadically, after the accident. He was very
helpful on TIG topics. He posted to sci.,engr.joining.welding on
Jul 22, so he is still around. Probably just cut back his net time.

Jon


Yes I remember his accident, and that he posted a few times after that. Just
hasn't been as frequent as he used to be.

Ernie, if you're reading this. Give us an update on the hand.

Lane