Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Bushog repair help needed.

I have an old 6 foot or so bushog of my dads I am trying to fix. The
mount for the gearbox was broke. Welded in some new metal and new
bolts. Did a good job. Went to mow with it in just a tall grass field.
I turned it on in my mowed yard and I could see the blades turning.
First went into the tall grass form the yard and it mowed good..... for
about 3 feet, then it is as if the tall grass slowed down the mower.
Brought it back up to the house. I can still turn the stump jumper and
plades even with the pto on. (And of course the tractor off). The nut
holding on the stump jumper I could turn. SOmeone has welded the nut on
the bolt. I could still turn the nut with a wrench.

Any guesses what is wrong. I have never worked on one of these. I guess
my next step is to take the stump jumper off, right?

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Eric R Snow
 
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On 3 Jul 2005 16:56:17 -0700, wrote:

I have an old 6 foot or so bushog of my dads I am trying to fix. The
mount for the gearbox was broke. Welded in some new metal and new
bolts. Did a good job. Went to mow with it in just a tall grass field.
I turned it on in my mowed yard and I could see the blades turning.
First went into the tall grass form the yard and it mowed good..... for
about 3 feet, then it is as if the tall grass slowed down the mower.
Brought it back up to the house. I can still turn the stump jumper and
plades even with the pto on. (And of course the tractor off). The nut
holding on the stump jumper I could turn. SOmeone has welded the nut on
the bolt. I could still turn the nut with a wrench.

Any guesses what is wrong. I have never worked on one of these. I guess
my next step is to take the stump jumper off, right?

I have a bush hog that's seen lots of use and abuse. So much that the
frame broke at the mounts where the gearbox bolts up. I considered
removing everything and fixing it proper until I realized how hard it
would be to remove the big disc that the blades bolt to. Instead I
welded the gearbox to the frame while repairing the frame. Is this
disc what you are calling the stump jumper? If it rotates, and the
bolt running through it rotates with it, then the problem is probably
in the gearbox. Can you get a cover off? If the bolt rotates while
the disc doesn't then it's probably a key that is sheared between the
bolt and disc. I'll bet it's a key or a pin in the drive, maybe where
the driveshaft is coupled to the gearbox, that's sheared. I have
sheared the pin in one of the couplers that is made to shear instead
of breaking gears in either the tractor or bush hog gearbox.
ERS
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Yes the "bowel" that the blades bolt to I am calling the stump jumper.

I have found no shear pin in the shaft that the pto driveshaft hooks
to, I had the cover of the gearbox off. The gear that is on the shaft
that goes down to the blades had some teeth that were a little bit
chipped.

Thing is, the blades spin fine until I get into the grass, then it is
like they dont spin fast enough.

Is there a key or pin underneath ? Where would it be?

The large nut attached to the bolt underneat the bushhog is spot welded
to the bolt? WOnder why?

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gfulton
 
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wrote in message
ups.com...
Yes the "bowel" that the blades bolt to I am calling the stump jumper.

I have found no shear pin in the shaft that the pto driveshaft hooks
to, I had the cover of the gearbox off. The gear that is on the shaft
that goes down to the blades had some teeth that were a little bit
chipped.

Thing is, the blades spin fine until I get into the grass, then it is
like they dont spin fast enough.

Is there a key or pin underneath ? Where would it be?

The large nut attached to the bolt underneat the bushhog is spot welded
to the bolt? WOnder why?


When the blades slow down in tall grass, is the shaft between the pto output
on the tractor and the bushhog gearbox slowing down too? If it is, and
you've got a tractor with live power, (two stage clutch), the pto clutch is
likely slipping. If the pto shaft is not slowing down, I'd think it had a
sheared pin also. If the gears were bad in the bushhog gearbox, it would be
making a hell of a racket.


Garrett Fulton




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I like the idea of just welding the nut to the stump jumper. There is a
gap though between the nut and the stump jumper.

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kk
 
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Usually there is a keeper available that goes over the nut and that weld
to the jumper. The keeper is just a washer with a hex hole instead of
round. I get them from the Woods dealer.
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If I take the stump jumper off, where will the key be?

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Would it be closer to the hog's head or the stump jumper end? If it was
up toward the gearbox, then welding the bolt to the stump jumper would
do no good, would it?



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It does have a nut at the end of the shaft. This holds the stumpjumper
on. I guess I am calling it a bolt because it is threaded. I noticed
the end of the shaft with the large nut has a hole in the center. What
is that for?

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Peter Wiley
 
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I've come to the conclusion that he's either an idiot or a troll.
Either way...... plonk.

PDW

In article , Roy
wrote:

Are you for real or do you make this **** up? Your posts have got to
be classics on not what to do and gee, what is this, or I think I will
be a mechanic, machinist, carpenter or welder today.........

On 4 Jul 2005 19:52:57 -0700, wrote:

===It does have a nut at the end of the shaft. This holds the stumpjumper
===on. I guess I am calling it a bolt because it is threaded. I noticed
===the end of the shaft with the large nut has a hole in the center. What
===is that for?



==============================================
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Yes these are real questions. If you dont like them then go somewhere
else.

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