Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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John Noid
 
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Default Advice needed on steam engine repair

I have a minature steam engine - heated by electricity. It has a 1/4 in OD
brass threaded pipe that has a needle valve on top that feeds steam to the
cylinder and also holds the cylinder, flywheel etc to the boiler. It has
been broken about a 1/4 in fron the end that goes into the boiler.

I would like comments advice criticism etc on my plan to repair. I need to
butt solder this little pipe so I found a number drill bit that would fit
snugly inside the pipe to hold it straight - then if I put a washer over
the drill bit so I could lightly clamp it together - could I then silver
solder it with a butane mini torch with a chance of it holding....I could
shim the pipe so I wouldn't need to have the threads be ok where it broke.

Would I solder the drill bit to the pipe - would coating the drill bit with
grease or something stop that?

Anything else wrong with my plan - I admit that I do most of my metalworking
with a hacksaw.

Thanks for your help.
John
noid at austin dot ibm dot com
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HaroldA102
 
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Default Advice needed on steam engine repair

I can tell you the grease will come out and
contaminate weld.
  #3   Report Post  
Bob May
 
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Default Advice needed on steam engine repair

The best way would be to sleeve the pipe with another piece of pipe and
solder all of that together.
Soldering with the drill inside will tend to also solder the drill inside
and you will have to pull all of it apart again.
In addition, butt soldering the pipe will not have the same strength as the
pipe itself and that will cause another rupture at that point.

--
Bob May
Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less.
Works every time it is tried!


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John Noid
 
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Default Advice needed on steam engine repair

Bob May wrote:

The best way would be to sleeve the pipe with another piece of pipe and
solder all of that together.
Soldering with the drill inside will tend to also solder the drill inside
and you will have to pull all of it apart again.
In addition, butt soldering the pipe will not have the same strength as
the pipe itself and that will cause another rupture at that point.

--
Bob May
Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink
less.
Works every time it is tried!

Thanks I was afraid of that. Does anyone know of a source for pipe that OD
is the same as a number 25 drill bit? I can't sleeve it outside since it
runs thru the cylinder "steam feed" mechanism. I don't think that it needs
a whole lot of strength especially if it doesn't (I suspect) get dropped
again. I have some silver solder that reads - cover part to be solder with
flux - the solder will not stick to the parts that don't get covered. Is
that my salvation? I also figured I could solder the threads together at
the point of breakage since I could shim the piece so that those threads
were not needed.
Thanks
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jtaylor
 
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Default Advice needed on steam engine repair


John Noid wrote in message
...
I have a minature steam engine - heated by electricity. It has a 1/4 in

OD
brass threaded pipe that has a needle valve on top that feeds steam to the
cylinder and also holds the cylinder, flywheel etc to the boiler. It

has
been broken about a 1/4 in fron the end that goes into the boiler.

I would like comments advice criticism etc on my plan to repair. I need

to
butt solder this little pipe so I found a number drill bit that would fit
snugly inside the pipe to hold it straight - then if I put a washer over
the drill bit so I could lightly clamp it together - could I then silver
solder it with a butane mini torch with a chance of it holding....I could
shim the pipe so I wouldn't need to have the threads be ok where it broke.

Would I solder the drill bit to the pipe - would coating the drill bit

with
grease or something stop that?

Anything else wrong with my plan - I admit that I do most of my

metalworking
with a hacksaw.



If you can get both pieces of the pipe off the engine you can probably
silver-solder them together and they'll be strong enough without
re-inforcement. The pipe was only brass to start with, after all; and it
will be annealed after you're done and so is less likely to break again -
it'll bend first.

What i'd do is hold the larger section with a set of large tweezers in a
vise, so that the broken end is vertical; I'd flux the broken end and drop
some teeny-weeny pieces of silver-solder (the real kind) onto that end after
heating it with a propane torch. You have to heat enough that the solder
flows onto that end of the joint-to-be. Then I'd flux the smaller part and
set it carefully on top, just as it would have been originally. I'd heat
the pair carefully - starting about an inch away from the joint, watching
the top part, maybe holding it with tweezers or a bit of wire inside. The
flux should bubble and then get glassy-sticky - at that point if the
sections are aligned correctly you heat closer to the joint until the solder
melts and flows; the top part will settle into place, and you dump it in the
pickle.




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Bob May
 
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Default Advice needed on steam engine repair

Any decent hobby shop will have K&S tubing which is telescoping.
You may have to make the full end of the pipe to really do the job right.

--
Bob May
Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less.
Works every time it is tried!


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