Ok I'm stuck, I want to remove the chuck from my lathe,a Colchester
Master Mk 2, Clausing 80000? this has the American taper L0 secured by
a large threaded collar.

I've read the manual, no help, searched the groups, nope.

I don't want to break anything so I thought I'd ask.

People I've spoken to have said use the large c spanner (got that) and
shock the collar loose, but the spindle & chuck just turn, the collar
doesn't loosen. Tried pieces of wood to chock the chuck, bars in chuck,
you name it.

I don't want to put the lahte in gear and heave 'cos it might break the
gear etc.

Ideas ?

TIA

Lee

had a quick look, nope just a bolt to attach the collet chuck (lever
op)

Hello,

I have a Colchester Master Mk2, I just put it in lowest gear and that
locks the spindle well enough to undo it and/or tighten it. If you are
hitting it hard enought o break a gear then that chuck was not put on by
a human and/or it's been there since the beginning of time and is siezed
somehow.

BTW loweres is the top selectors together in the middle and the selector
on the front of the headstock towards the tail.

TTYL, Jeff

shedfull wrote:
Ok I'm stuck, I want to remove the chuck from my lathe,a Colchester
Master Mk 2, Clausing 80000? this has the American taper L0 secured by
a large threaded collar.

I've read the manual, no help, searched the groups, nope.

I don't want to break anything so I thought I'd ask.

People I've spoken to have said use the large c spanner (got that) and
shock the collar loose, but the spindle & chuck just turn, the collar
doesn't loosen. Tried pieces of wood to chock the chuck, bars in chuck,
you name it.

I don't want to put the lahte in gear and heave 'cos it might break the
gear etc.

Ideas ?

TIA

Lee

"shedfull" wrote in message
oups.com...
Ok I'm stuck, I want to remove the chuck from my lathe,a Colchester
Master Mk 2, Clausing 80000? this has the American taper L0 secured by
a large threaded collar.

I've read the manual, no help, searched the groups, nope.

I don't want to break anything so I thought I'd ask.

People I've spoken to have said use the large c spanner (got that) and
shock the collar loose, but the spindle & chuck just turn, the collar
doesn't loosen. Tried pieces of wood to chock the chuck, bars in chuck,
you name it.

I don't want to put the lahte in gear and heave 'cos it might break the
gear etc.

Ideas ?

TIA

Lee


You should be able to use the lowest gear with no fear, but if you're
concerned, block the chuck with a 2 x 4 end to end, from one of the jaws to
the bed, with the machine in the lowest gear, then knock the spanner with a
*soft* (I recommend a Nupla, they're the best there is) hammer. As I
recall, they're a right hand thread (it's been over 40 years since I last
changed a chuck on an L type mount), so you want to turn the top of the
collar towards the rear of the machine.

Let us know!

Harold

Jeff Williams wrote:
Hello,

I have a Colchester Master Mk2, I just put it in lowest gear and that

locks the spindle well enough to undo it and/or tighten it. If you
are
hitting it hard enought o break a gear then


that chuck was not put on by
a human and/or it's been there since the beginning of time and is
siezed
somehow.


I think it was, it has and it is, so I'll use some penetrating stuff


Lee

On 11 May 2005 16:33:53 -0700, "shedfull" wrote:

Ok I'm stuck, I want to remove the chuck from my lathe,a Colchester
Master Mk 2, Clausing 80000? this has the American taper L0 secured by
a large threaded collar.

I've read the manual, no help, searched the groups, nope.

I don't want to break anything so I thought I'd ask.

People I've spoken to have said use the large c spanner (got that) and
shock the collar loose, but the spindle & chuck just turn, the collar
doesn't loosen. Tried pieces of wood to chock the chuck, bars in chuck,
you name it.

I don't want to put the lahte in gear and heave 'cos it might break the
gear etc.

Ideas ?

TIA

Lee

Place both gear handles (top of the lathe) in the lowest speed
postion. (knobs closest to each other). If your lathe was equpped with
foot brake, stand on it.

Place spanner on collar and rap firmly with shop hammer in a downward
direction. When collar turns, place a small piece of plywood across
the ways to protect them, and then unscrew the collar while holding
the chuck, which will suddenly become very heavy (hence the plywood if
you drop it).

Clean out taper well with air or brush before putting the chuck back
on.

It doesnt need a rap with a hammer on the spanner when reinstalling,
unless you are doing a great deal of interupted cut work,

Gunner, Clausing/Cochester 13x16 (US designation)

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

Thanks to all who replied,

That chuck was, uh m TIGHT

Its off now, got the taper cleaned up and sorted the gap piece out.
I think that chuck hadn't been off for 20 years, (could explain the
unused F/plate, catch plate and little used 4 jaw ?)
The 3 jaw sc chuck was a mile out,
I was thinking of swappng it for the 4 jaw independant I have and
investigating the 3 jaw.

Many thanks again.

Before you scrap that 3-jaw, take it apart and clean it meticulously
and then check the scroll's bore for looseness. I recently read an article
that claimed that scrolls wear in their central bore, and that the wear is
usually uniform, and that this wear can be taken up by one shim wrapped
around the ID of the scroll's bore. Clean it, blow it out, check the scroll
play as I described, and *then* measure the eccentricity. I had a 10" 3-jaw
that went from .020" to .004" by cleaning and shimming.

GWE

shedfull wrote:

Thanks to all who replied,

That chuck was, uh m TIGHT

Its off now, got the taper cleaned up and sorted the gap piece out.
I think that chuck hadn't been off for 20 years, (could explain the
unused F/plate, catch plate and little used 4 jaw ?)
The 3 jaw sc chuck was a mile out,
I was thinking of swappng it for the 4 jaw independant I have and
investigating the 3 jaw.

Many thanks again.

Grant Erwin wrote:

Before you scrap that 3-jaw, take it apart and clean it meticulously
and then check the scroll's bore for looseness. I recently read an article
that claimed that scrolls wear in their central bore, and that the wear is
usually uniform, and that this wear can be taken up by one shim wrapped
around the ID of the scroll's bore. Clean it, blow it out, check the scroll
play as I described, and *then* measure the eccentricity. I had a 10" 3-jaw
that went from .020" to .004" by cleaning and shimming.

GWE

shedfull wrote:

Thanks to all who replied,

That chuck was, uh m TIGHT

Its off now, got the taper cleaned up and sorted the gap piece out.
I think that chuck hadn't been off for 20 years, (could explain the
unused F/plate, catch plate and little used 4 jaw ?)
The 3 jaw sc chuck was a mile out,
I was thinking of swappng it for the 4 jaw independant I have and
investigating the 3 jaw.

Many thanks again.

Like Grant said, clean. I got my lathe from Dad and after his last move, I don't
think he was thinking. The chuck was full of metal and as he tipped it over
to thread it on, swarf fell into the threads.

When I got it - it didn't look right and didn't run right. Closer looking
the chuck didn't match the centering and back plate.

I took it off and cleaned out a lot of material and some of it compressed.
Once clean, it threaded on easily by hand, fit the centering ring and fit
flat on the backplate.

It might be as little as that or a little rust in one thread...

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

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In article .com,
shedfull wrote:

Jeff Williams wrote:
Hello,

I have a Colchester Master Mk2, I just put it in lowest gear and that

locks the spindle well enough to undo it and/or tighten it. If you
are
hitting it hard enought o break a gear then


that chuck was not put on by
a human and/or it's been there since the beginning of time and is
siezed
somehow.


I think it was, it has and it is, so I'll use some penetrating stuff

Which way are you moving the wrench? It helps to realize that
the male thread is on the chuck backplate, and the female collar thread
is free to rotate around the spindle, but is captive on the spindle.

So -- the handle of the hook or pin spanner wrench, if pointing
up from the collar, should be move towards the back of the lathe to
loosen, the direction which would *tighten* a chuck on a threaded
spindle. (At least, based on my L-00 on a Clausing spindle.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 12 May 2005 13:05:45 -0700, "shedfull" wrote:

Thanks to all who replied,

That chuck was, uh m TIGHT

Its off now, got the taper cleaned up and sorted the gap piece out.
I think that chuck hadn't been off for 20 years, (could explain the
unused F/plate, catch plate and little used 4 jaw ?)
The 3 jaw sc chuck was a mile out,
I was thinking of swappng it for the 4 jaw independant I have and
investigating the 3 jaw.

Many thanks again.


What did you do?

Gunner

"Veterans, and anyone sensible, take cover when there's incoming.
A cloud of testosterone makes a **** poor flack shield."
Offbreed

Ok, to get that chuck off I used bottom gear and chocked the chuck,
tight, to the bed,

I also used some plus gas penetrating stuff,
I'll aslo admit to using a 2'6" tube over the c spanner (over half of
this was on the spanner)

The problem was rust,just on the last thread of the locking ring. The
taper and key are fine so I'll strip and service the 3 jaw and try it
again.

While the chuck was off I sorted the gap piece out as well.

not yet done the 3 jaw as I'm busy with work and I've still to build
the rotary phase converter to run this lathe and my Elliot 10" shaper.

Lee