Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Paint Blistering - Bathroom
After being in the house for about 7 years, we decided to repaint. We hired
a professional painter. Everything came out fine. A few months later, the paint in the smallest bathroom started to blister. We had used the best paint available for bathrooms. Prior to repainting, there was no blistering, though the tape on some seams had started to peel a bit. The painter came back out, scraped off everything that was loose, reprimed and repainted. A few months later- same problem. He came out again. This time, we replaced the exahust fan with a stronger fan and vented it to the eave. He scraped, primed, painted. This time we let the primer dry for a month (and no blistering). He then painted, and we let it dry for a week before using the shower in that bathroom. A few months later- same problem. In each case, the blistering occurred in the spring or fall, when the heat pump/ac was least active, so the air was not drying very quickly. Anyway... What is the least expensive way to fix this problem? Wallpaper is fine, if that will work. Our painter doesn't think it will, but I am not so sure of his knowledge now. I don't know if the previous owners had used an oil-based (or other non-latex) paint prior. Oh, one other intersting thing- when he scraped the last time, in some areas the paint came off all the way down to the greeenboard. No mold or mildew, just blistering like crazy. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
"Alan" wrote in message ... After being in the house for about 7 years, we decided to repaint. We hired a professional painter. Everything came out fine. A few months later, the paint in the smallest bathroom started to blister. We had used the best paint available for bathrooms. Prior to repainting, there was no blistering, though the tape on some seams had started to peel a bit. The painter came back out, scraped off everything that was loose, reprimed and repainted. A few months later- same problem. He came out again. This time, we replaced the exahust fan with a stronger fan and vented it to the eave. He scraped, primed, painted. This time we let the primer dry for a month (and no blistering). He then painted, and we let it dry for a week before using the shower in that bathroom. A few months later- same problem. In each case, the blistering occurred in the spring or fall, when the heat pump/ac was least active, so the air was not drying very quickly. Anyway... What is the least expensive way to fix this problem? Wallpaper is fine, if that will work. Our painter doesn't think it will, but I am not so sure of his knowledge now. I don't know if the previous owners had used an oil-based (or other non-latex) paint prior. Oh, one other intersting thing- when he scraped the last time, in some areas the paint came off all the way down to the greeenboard. No mold or mildew, just blistering like crazy. Did he use oil or latex, and which one for primer and finish paint? |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
A more powerful fan should help remove moisture, but the fan needs to
run 20-30 minutes after bathing. A timer switch is good for this. Another thought, you may have a leak inside the wall somewhere. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
If it did not peel for 7 yrs and now it is I can only guess he did
something wrong on his first repaint, not priming, or painting over gloss or not cleaning and cheap paint. With the first repaint failing you have a problem. Is old paint oil gloss? test with alcohol, alcohol softens and removes latex, not oil. Take time to figure it out. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... After being in the house for about 7 years, we decided to repaint. We hired a professional painter. Everything came out fine. A few months later, the paint in the smallest bathroom started to blister. We had used the best paint available for bathrooms. Prior to repainting, there was no blistering, though the tape on some seams had started to peel a bit. The painter came back out, scraped off everything that was loose, reprimed and repainted. A few months later- same problem. He came out again. This time, we replaced the exahust fan with a stronger fan and vented it to the eave. He scraped, primed, painted. This time we let the primer dry for a month (and no blistering). He then painted, and we let it dry for a week before using the shower in that bathroom. A few months later- same problem. In each case, the blistering occurred in the spring or fall, when the heat pump/ac was least active, so the air was not drying very quickly. Anyway... What is the least expensive way to fix this problem? Wallpaper is fine, if that will work. Our painter doesn't think it will, but I am not so sure of his knowledge now. I don't know if the previous owners had used an oil-based (or other non-latex) paint prior. Oh, one other intersting thing- when he scraped the last time, in some areas the paint came off all the way down to the greeenboard. No mold or mildew, just blistering like crazy. Did he use oil or latex, and which one for primer and finish paint? Latex for both. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
"m Ransley" wrote in message ... If it did not peel for 7 yrs and now it is I can only guess he did something wrong on his first repaint, not priming, or painting over gloss or not cleaning and cheap paint. With the first repaint failing you have a problem. Is old paint oil gloss? test with alcohol, alcohol softens and removes latex, not oil. Take time to figure it out. The original paint was a base with a color sponged on. Either one may have been a gloss, I'm not sure. I have a hunch the sponged on was gloss. How can I test the original now that it's been covered so many times? And if it was oil, can I fix this mess by scraping off as much of the new latex as possible and then painting with oil? |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
"Phisherman" wrote in message ... A more powerful fan should help remove moisture, but the fan needs to run 20-30 minutes after bathing. A timer switch is good for this. Another thought, you may have a leak inside the wall somewhere. It's blistering everywhere- the closer to the shower, the more it blisters, so I doubt it's a leak. When the heat pump is off, we keep the blower on to keep the air moving. Just leaving the door open clears it out in 10-20 minutes. I was hoping the exhaust fan would suck out the moisture as it is generated. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
"Alan" wrote in message ... "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... After being in the house for about 7 years, we decided to repaint. We hired a professional painter. Everything came out fine. A few months later, the paint in the smallest bathroom started to blister. We had used the best paint available for bathrooms. Prior to repainting, there was no blistering, though the tape on some seams had started to peel a bit. The painter came back out, scraped off everything that was loose, reprimed and repainted. A few months later- same problem. He came out again. This time, we replaced the exahust fan with a stronger fan and vented it to the eave. He scraped, primed, painted. This time we let the primer dry for a month (and no blistering). He then painted, and we let it dry for a week before using the shower in that bathroom. A few months later- same problem. In each case, the blistering occurred in the spring or fall, when the heat pump/ac was least active, so the air was not drying very quickly. Anyway... What is the least expensive way to fix this problem? Wallpaper is fine, if that will work. Our painter doesn't think it will, but I am not so sure of his knowledge now. I don't know if the previous owners had used an oil-based (or other non-latex) paint prior. Oh, one other intersting thing- when he scraped the last time, in some areas the paint came off all the way down to the greeenboard. No mold or mildew, just blistering like crazy. Did he use oil or latex, and which one for primer and finish paint? Latex for both. Hmm. Someone will disagree with me here based on their own luck using latex, but personally, I would never use latex paint in a damp environment. You could still have problems with oil paint if the prep work wasn't done right, but barring that, oil will always hold up better. Do whatever you can to assure perfect conditions such as temperature, even if it means you have to wait till spring so you can open the windows & prevent damaging your brain cells from the fumes. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
"Alan" wrote in message ... "Phisherman" wrote in message ... A more powerful fan should help remove moisture, but the fan needs to run 20-30 minutes after bathing. A timer switch is good for this. Another thought, you may have a leak inside the wall somewhere. It's blistering everywhere- the closer to the shower, the more it blisters, so I doubt it's a leak. When the heat pump is off, we keep the blower on to keep the air moving. Just leaving the door open clears it out in 10-20 minutes. I was hoping the exhaust fan would suck out the moisture as it is generated. Mine does, but it's a small bathroom, and the previous owner said he installed a fan rated for a room twice the size. Considering the way it performs, and the fact that it rattles the glassware in the kitchen, I think he did the right thing. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
When my paint does this, I find that a little blistex does the trick
very nicely. One important thing though - DO NOT pop the blisters. They could become infected. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
"Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... "Phisherman" wrote in message ... A more powerful fan should help remove moisture, but the fan needs to run 20-30 minutes after bathing. A timer switch is good for this. Another thought, you may have a leak inside the wall somewhere. It's blistering everywhere- the closer to the shower, the more it blisters, so I doubt it's a leak. When the heat pump is off, we keep the blower on to keep the air moving. Just leaving the door open clears it out in 10-20 minutes. I was hoping the exhaust fan would suck out the moisture as it is generated. Mine does, but it's a small bathroom, and the previous owner said he installed a fan rated for a room twice the size. Considering the way it performs, and the fact that it rattles the glassware in the kitchen, I think he did the right thing. I would have loved to put in an even bigger fan, but this bathroom is off the bedroom, and the fan is noisy enough as it is. They get pretty pricey if you want a quiet, powerful fan. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
"Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... After being in the house for about 7 years, we decided to repaint. We hired a professional painter. Everything came out fine. A few months later, the paint in the smallest bathroom started to blister. We had used the best paint available for bathrooms. Prior to repainting, there was no blistering, though the tape on some seams had started to peel a bit. The painter came back out, scraped off everything that was loose, reprimed and repainted. A few months later- same problem. He came out again. This time, we replaced the exahust fan with a stronger fan and vented it to the eave. He scraped, primed, painted. This time we let the primer dry for a month (and no blistering). He then painted, and we let it dry for a week before using the shower in that bathroom. A few months later- same problem. In each case, the blistering occurred in the spring or fall, when the heat pump/ac was least active, so the air was not drying very quickly. Anyway... What is the least expensive way to fix this problem? Wallpaper is fine, if that will work. Our painter doesn't think it will, but I am not so sure of his knowledge now. I don't know if the previous owners had used an oil-based (or other non-latex) paint prior. Oh, one other intersting thing- when he scraped the last time, in some areas the paint came off all the way down to the greeenboard. No mold or mildew, just blistering like crazy. Did he use oil or latex, and which one for primer and finish paint? Latex for both. Hmm. Someone will disagree with me here based on their own luck using latex, but personally, I would never use latex paint in a damp environment. You could still have problems with oil paint if the prep work wasn't done right, but barring that, oil will always hold up better. Do whatever you can to assure perfect conditions such as temperature, even if it means you have to wait till spring so you can open the windows & prevent damaging your brain cells from the fumes. What kills me is that I asked this guy about that, and he said that latex is no problem- he uses it all the time. He would probably come back out again if I asked him to, but he's already convinced me that he has no clue- so why bother.... Well, onward... What is involved with the prep for oil? Scraping down to bare geenboard is probably not realistic. Just scrape off whatever I can? I will defintely wait till spring. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
"Alan" wrote in message ... "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... After being in the house for about 7 years, we decided to repaint. We hired a professional painter. Everything came out fine. A few months later, the paint in the smallest bathroom started to blister. We had used the best paint available for bathrooms. Prior to repainting, there was no blistering, though the tape on some seams had started to peel a bit. The painter came back out, scraped off everything that was loose, reprimed and repainted. A few months later- same problem. He came out again. This time, we replaced the exahust fan with a stronger fan and vented it to the eave. He scraped, primed, painted. This time we let the primer dry for a month (and no blistering). He then painted, and we let it dry for a week before using the shower in that bathroom. A few months later- same problem. In each case, the blistering occurred in the spring or fall, when the heat pump/ac was least active, so the air was not drying very quickly. Anyway... What is the least expensive way to fix this problem? Wallpaper is fine, if that will work. Our painter doesn't think it will, but I am not so sure of his knowledge now. I don't know if the previous owners had used an oil-based (or other non-latex) paint prior. Oh, one other intersting thing- when he scraped the last time, in some areas the paint came off all the way down to the greeenboard. No mold or mildew, just blistering like crazy. Did he use oil or latex, and which one for primer and finish paint? Latex for both. Hmm. Someone will disagree with me here based on their own luck using latex, but personally, I would never use latex paint in a damp environment. You could still have problems with oil paint if the prep work wasn't done right, but barring that, oil will always hold up better. Do whatever you can to assure perfect conditions such as temperature, even if it means you have to wait till spring so you can open the windows & prevent damaging your brain cells from the fumes. What kills me is that I asked this guy about that, and he said that latex is no problem- he uses it all the time. He would probably come back out again if I asked him to, but he's already convinced me that he has no clue- so why bother.... Well, onward... What is involved with the prep for oil? Scraping down to bare geenboard is probably not realistic. Just scrape off whatever I can? I will defintely wait till spring. I honestly don't recall what how to prep latex before covering with oil. 20 years ago, I lived a block from a local hardware store whose owners knew every damned thing about painting. After my wife raped three rooms with cheap paint from Sears, we switched to Devoe, sold at the hardware store. The result was that we hardly ever needed to paint, so we forgot some of the tricks in between major projects. Get out your yellow pages and find yourself a real paint store. Not a Home Depot or Lowe's. Find a place that sells Martin-Senour, Devoe or Pratt & Lambert paints. Get advice from the people at the store. If you speak to anyone with pimples and they pause for more than 1 second when you ask a question, ask to speak to someone else. I suspect you'll be able to put a good quality primer over the gloss latex. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
"Alan" wrote in message ... "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... "Phisherman" wrote in message ... A more powerful fan should help remove moisture, but the fan needs to run 20-30 minutes after bathing. A timer switch is good for this. Another thought, you may have a leak inside the wall somewhere. It's blistering everywhere- the closer to the shower, the more it blisters, so I doubt it's a leak. When the heat pump is off, we keep the blower on to keep the air moving. Just leaving the door open clears it out in 10-20 minutes. I was hoping the exhaust fan would suck out the moisture as it is generated. Mine does, but it's a small bathroom, and the previous owner said he installed a fan rated for a room twice the size. Considering the way it performs, and the fact that it rattles the glassware in the kitchen, I think he did the right thing. I would have loved to put in an even bigger fan, but this bathroom is off the bedroom, and the fan is noisy enough as it is. They get pretty pricey if you want a quiet, powerful fan. So? You're about to blow $100.00 on paint & brushes. :-) |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Alan wrote:
After being in the house for about 7 years, we decided to repaint. We hired a professional painter. Everything came out fine. A few months later, the paint in the smallest bathroom started to blister. We had used the best paint available for bathrooms. Prior to repainting, there was no blistering, though the tape on some seams had started to peel a bit. The painter came back out, scraped off everything that was loose, reprimed and repainted. A few months later- same problem. He came out again. This time, we replaced the exahust fan with a stronger fan and vented it to the eave. He scraped, primed, painted. This time we let the primer dry for a month (and no blistering). He then painted, and we let it dry for a week before using the shower in that bathroom. A few months later- same problem. In each case, the blistering occurred in the spring or fall, when the heat pump/ac was least active, so the air was not drying very quickly. It sounds like the blisters are all the way down to the substrate (wall)... is that right? If so, they are forming because of moisture entering from behind the wall surface. Strip the paint down to the wall surface and prime with a vapor retarding primer such as Kelly Moore's Vapor Shield: http://www.kellymoore.com/admin/file.../95-500TDS.pdf |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
"Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... "Phisherman" wrote in message ... A more powerful fan should help remove moisture, but the fan needs to run 20-30 minutes after bathing. A timer switch is good for this. Another thought, you may have a leak inside the wall somewhere. It's blistering everywhere- the closer to the shower, the more it blisters, so I doubt it's a leak. When the heat pump is off, we keep the blower on to keep the air moving. Just leaving the door open clears it out in 10-20 minutes. I was hoping the exhaust fan would suck out the moisture as it is generated. Mine does, but it's a small bathroom, and the previous owner said he installed a fan rated for a room twice the size. Considering the way it performs, and the fact that it rattles the glassware in the kitchen, I think he did the right thing. I would have loved to put in an even bigger fan, but this bathroom is off the bedroom, and the fan is noisy enough as it is. They get pretty pricey if you want a quiet, powerful fan. So? You're about to blow $100.00 on paint & brushes. :-) Well, it's like I always say- Hindsight is 20/20, but foresight is only 50/50. The new fan was well over $100, and the "right" fan was probably around $300 or so. Anyway, the real problem in all of this, is, I suspect, the painter. |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
"Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... After being in the house for about 7 years, we decided to repaint. We hired a professional painter. Everything came out fine. A few months later, the paint in the smallest bathroom started to blister. We had used the best paint available for bathrooms. Prior to repainting, there was no blistering, though the tape on some seams had started to peel a bit. The painter came back out, scraped off everything that was loose, reprimed and repainted. A few months later- same problem. He came out again. This time, we replaced the exahust fan with a stronger fan and vented it to the eave. He scraped, primed, painted. This time we let the primer dry for a month (and no blistering). He then painted, and we let it dry for a week before using the shower in that bathroom. A few months later- same problem. In each case, the blistering occurred in the spring or fall, when the heat pump/ac was least active, so the air was not drying very quickly. Anyway... What is the least expensive way to fix this problem? Wallpaper is fine, if that will work. Our painter doesn't think it will, but I am not so sure of his knowledge now. I don't know if the previous owners had used an oil-based (or other non-latex) paint prior. Oh, one other intersting thing- when he scraped the last time, in some areas the paint came off all the way down to the greeenboard. No mold or mildew, just blistering like crazy. Did he use oil or latex, and which one for primer and finish paint? Latex for both. Hmm. Someone will disagree with me here based on their own luck using latex, but personally, I would never use latex paint in a damp environment. You could still have problems with oil paint if the prep work wasn't done right, but barring that, oil will always hold up better. Do whatever you can to assure perfect conditions such as temperature, even if it means you have to wait till spring so you can open the windows & prevent damaging your brain cells from the fumes. What kills me is that I asked this guy about that, and he said that latex is no problem- he uses it all the time. He would probably come back out again if I asked him to, but he's already convinced me that he has no clue- so why bother.... Well, onward... What is involved with the prep for oil? Scraping down to bare geenboard is probably not realistic. Just scrape off whatever I can? I will defintely wait till spring. I honestly don't recall what how to prep latex before covering with oil. 20 years ago, I lived a block from a local hardware store whose owners knew every damned thing about painting. After my wife raped three rooms with cheap paint from Sears, we switched to Devoe, sold at the hardware store. The result was that we hardly ever needed to paint, so we forgot some of t he tricks in between major projects. Get out your yellow pages and find yourself a real paint store. Not a Home Depot or Lowe's. Find a place that sells Martin-Senour, Devoe or Pratt & Lambert paints. Get advice from the people at the store. If you speak to anyone with pimples and they pause for more than 1 second when you ask a question, ask to speak to someone else. I suspect you'll be able to put a good quality primer over the gloss latex. I also suspect that a good (oil based) primer will work. The trick is finding someone who really knows what he's talking about. I'll give it a shot, though. Thanks. |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
On 1/18/2005 12:36 PM US(ET), Alan took fingers to keys, and typed the
following: "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... After being in the house for about 7 years, we decided to repaint. We hired a professional painter. Everything came out fine. A few months later, the paint in the smallest bathroom started to blister. We had used the best paint available for bathrooms. Prior to repainting, there was no blistering, though the tape on some seams had started to peel a bit. The painter came back out, scraped off everything that was loose, reprimed and repainted. A few months later- same problem. He came out again. This time, we replaced the exahust fan with a stronger fan and vented it to the eave. He scraped, primed, painted. This time we let the primer dry for a month (and no blistering). He then painted, and we let it dry for a week before using the shower in that bathroom. A few months later- same problem. In each case, the blistering occurred in the spring or fall, when the heat pump/ac was least active, so the air was not drying very quickly. Anyway... What is the least expensive way to fix this problem? Wallpaper is fine, if that will work. Our painter doesn't think it will, but I am not so sure of his knowledge now. I don't know if the previous owners had used an oil-based (or other non-latex) paint prior. Oh, one other intersting thing- when he scraped the last time, in some areas the paint came off all the way down to the greeenboard. No mold or mildew, just blistering like crazy. Did he use oil or latex, and which one for primer and finish paint? Latex for both. Hmm. Someone will disagree with me here based on their own luck using latex, but personally, I would never use latex paint in a damp environment. You could still have problems with oil paint if the prep work wasn't done right, but barring that, oil will always hold up better. Do whatever you can to assure perfect conditions such as temperature, even if it means you have to wait till spring so you can open the windows & prevent damaging your brain cells from the fumes. What kills me is that I asked this guy about that, and he said that latex is no problem- he uses it all the time. He would probably come back out again if I asked him to, but he's already convinced me that he has no clue- so why bother.... Well, onward... What is involved with the prep for oil? Scraping down to bare geenboard is probably not realistic. Just scrape off whatever I can? I will defintely wait till spring. My 20 year old bathrooms (with showers) were all originally painted with latex and have been repainted with latex a couple of times since. I have never had a problem with bubbling of the paint. -- Bill |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Just leaving the door open clears it out in 10-20 minutes. I was hoping the exhaust fan would suck out the moisture as it is generated. You have to leave the door open while the fan is on or it won't do much good. Needs to be able to draw dry air into the bathroom. |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
I would have loved to put in an even bigger fan, but this bathroom is off the bedroom, and the fan is noisy enough as it is. They get pretty pricey if you want a quiet, powerful fan. There are really good quiet fans now, such as Panasonic, for $100-150. Also timer switches. Both well worth the money. Be sure the timer switch is for inductive loads or it will ruin the fan. Don't ask how I know! |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
"Alan" wrote in message
... I also suspect that a good (oil based) primer will work. The trick is finding someone who really knows what he's talking about. I'll give it a shot, though. Thanks. Just get the latex surface screaming clean. |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
AS I said , He probably went Latex over dirty gloss oil. Your
screwed, it will always peel, Remove the BS latex with alcohol, |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
AS I said , He probably went Latex over dirty gloss oil. Your screwed, it will always peel, Remove the BS latex with alcohol, Sand ceiling with a power sander, and re-paint with a 2-part epoxy. It might come off again, but if it does, it's taking the sheetrock with it. --Goedjn |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
Alan wrote: "m Ransley" wrote in message ... If it did not peel for 7 yrs and now it is I can only guess he did something wrong on his first repaint, not priming, or painting over gloss or not cleaning and cheap paint. With the first repaint failing you have a problem. Is old paint oil gloss? test with alcohol, alcohol softens and removes latex, not oil. Take time to figure it out. The original paint was a base with a color sponged on. Either one may have been a gloss, I'm not sure. I have a hunch the sponged on was gloss. How can I test the original now that it's been covered so many times? And if it was oil, can I fix this mess by scraping off as much of the new latex as possible and then painting with oil? Is it peeling only in one area? Same place after repaint? If so, I would be looking for moisture intrusion from behind the wall. It should not be that localized if it is faulty paint job, unless the wall wasn't cleaned properly - soap scum, mildew, greasy hands will cause poor adhesion but shouldn't make the paint blister. |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
"Travis Jordan" wrote in message ... Alan wrote: After being in the house for about 7 years, we decided to repaint. We hired a professional painter. Everything came out fine. A few months later, the paint in the smallest bathroom started to blister. We had used the best paint available for bathrooms. Prior to repainting, there was no blistering, though the tape on some seams had started to peel a bit. The painter came back out, scraped off everything that was loose, reprimed and repainted. A few months later- same problem. He came out again. This time, we replaced the exahust fan with a stronger fan and vented it to the eave. He scraped, primed, painted. This time we let the primer dry for a month (and no blistering). He then painted, and we let it dry for a week before using the shower in that bathroom. A few months later- same problem. In each case, the blistering occurred in the spring or fall, when the heat pump/ac was least active, so the air was not drying very quickly. It sounds like the blisters are all the way down to the substrate (wall)... is that right? If so, they are forming because of moisture entering from behind the wall surface. Strip the paint down to the wall surface and prime with a vapor retarding primer such as Kelly Moore's Vapor Shield: http://www.kellymoore.com/admin/file.../95-500TDS.pdf Thanks for the link. I doubt that it's coming from behind, as all of the wall surfaces (and ceiling) are affected. Still, I like the idea of sealing the wallboard with this primer just in case. How does one go about stripping paint down to the wallboard? Also, can I just cover the mess with vinyl wallpaper (assuming I scrape off all the loose paint)? |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
"Alan" wrote in message ... Well, it's like I always say- Hindsight is 20/20, but foresight is only 50/50. The new fan was well over $100, and the "right" fan was probably around $300 or so. Anyway, the real problem in all of this, is, I suspect, the painter. If it is the painter's fault, how do you explain the tape peeling before the painter touched it? Paint is not water proofing, so when you get moisture under the paint you are going to have a problem. You either have a plumbing leak, a wall or roof leak or your fan is not sucking enough steam out of the bathroom. -- Roger Shoaf About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then they come up with this striped stuff. |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
"Roger Shoaf" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... Well, it's like I always say- Hindsight is 20/20, but foresight is only 50/50. The new fan was well over $100, and the "right" fan was probably around $300 or so. Anyway, the real problem in all of this, is, I suspect, the painter. If it is the painter's fault, how do you explain the tape peeling before the painter touched it? Paint is not water proofing, so when you get moisture under the paint you are going to have a problem. You either have a plumbing leak, a wall or roof leak or your fan is not sucking enough steam out of the bathroom. There is a moisture problem for sure, but the paint never blistered before. It didn't start blistering until he painted over what was there. I am still wondering if I can use wallpaper. Any idea? |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
"Alan" wrote in message ... "Roger Shoaf" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... Well, it's like I always say- Hindsight is 20/20, but foresight is only 50/50. The new fan was well over $100, and the "right" fan was probably around $300 or so. Anyway, the real problem in all of this, is, I suspect, the painter. If it is the painter's fault, how do you explain the tape peeling before the painter touched it? Paint is not water proofing, so when you get moisture under the paint you are going to have a problem. You either have a plumbing leak, a wall or roof leak or your fan is not sucking enough steam out of the bathroom. There is a moisture problem for sure, but the paint never blistered before. It didn't start blistering until he painted over what was there. I am still wondering if I can use wallpaper. Any idea? I wouldn't, until you know what's going on with the blistering. Do you want wallpaper because it might look good, or because you're sick of dealing with the paint issue? |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
"Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... "Roger Shoaf" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... Well, it's like I always say- Hindsight is 20/20, but foresight is only 50/50. The new fan was well over $100, and the "right" fan was probably around $300 or so. Anyway, the real problem in all of this, is, I suspect, the painter. If it is the painter's fault, how do you explain the tape peeling before the painter touched it? Paint is not water proofing, so when you get moisture under the paint you are going to have a problem. You either have a plumbing leak, a wall or roof leak or your fan is not sucking enough steam out of the bathroom. There is a moisture problem for sure, but the paint never blistered before. It didn't start blistering until he painted over what was there. I am still wondering if I can use wallpaper. Any idea? I wouldn't, until you know what's going on with the blistering. Do you want wallpaper because it might look good, or because you're sick of dealing with the paint issue? More because of the paint issue, but it would also look better. |
#30
|
|||
|
|||
"Alan" wrote in message ... "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... "Roger Shoaf" wrote in message ... "Alan" wrote in message ... Well, it's like I always say- Hindsight is 20/20, but foresight is only 50/50. The new fan was well over $100, and the "right" fan was probably around $300 or so. Anyway, the real problem in all of this, is, I suspect, the painter. If it is the painter's fault, how do you explain the tape peeling before the painter touched it? Paint is not water proofing, so when you get moisture under the paint you are going to have a problem. You either have a plumbing leak, a wall or roof leak or your fan is not sucking enough steam out of the bathroom. There is a moisture problem for sure, but the paint never blistered before. It didn't start blistering until he painted over what was there. I am still wondering if I can use wallpaper. Any idea? I wouldn't, until you know what's going on with the blistering. Do you want wallpaper because it might look good, or because you're sick of dealing with the paint issue? More because of the paint issue, but it would also look better. Well....take lots of time to interview people who can show you how to do the wallpaper the right way. The wallpaper in my bathroom was also installed in the shower area, above the tile which ends at about 6 feet. The previous owners installed it two years ago and the edges are beginning to peel. At this point, it's just enough to get a fingernail under, which seems like NOT enough to get a tool under to "inject" more adhesive. The issue is not ventilation. During a shower, with the bathroom door closed, the fan keeps the room very dry, even downright chilly. But, a fan can't do anything about water droplets that are splashed around in the shower itself. I'm beginning to think wallpaper within the shower stall is about as smart as putting it on the outside of a boat's hull. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Bathroom Ceiling paint keeps peeling? Very pitted | Home Repair | |||
Wallpaper or Paint in bathroom | Home Repair | |||
Bathroom paint repair | Home Repair | |||
Bathroom Paint - Required? | UK diy | |||
Benjamin Moore paint types | Home Ownership |