After doing a lot of troubleshooting like clearing the condensate trap
(water was getting in the pressure switch line), changed the ifc board
last year, changing the igniter, fixing a faulting ground to the
furnace switch (electrician did not ground it properly) replaced the
thermostat (old one had corroded contacts and a lot of drywall dust,
checking the voltage across the pressure switch (it's working) and now
changing the blower speed leads (The high speed was not working
right-causing the furnace to overheat and shutdown--so I changed it to
med hi--much better so far)and soon I'll be changing some of the tubing
to the condensate trap the questions now a

can I replace just the motor for the blower if that is the cause of the
hi speed not to work or just leave it alone or is there somoething else
I can check to see like the capicitor (and how to check it)

how do you tell if the inducer isn't working properly it does make a
little noisy sound--not quite right

Is there anything else to check on the condensate trap and/or the port
where the tube from the condensate trap goes to on the main unit. What
should inside the port look like when one takes off the tube.

The furnace is 12 years old and for the most part has worked fairly
well until recently, but we have had a lot of remodling going on and I
would like to get at least another year or 2 out of this furnace before
I replace it with a new one.

Thanks

'can I replace just the motor for the blower if that is the cause of the
hi speed not to work or just leave it alone or is there somoething else
I can check to see like the capicitor (and how to check it)'

Yes..you can change out the motor only. You dont have to replace the
blower wheel unless it is out of balance . If the high speed for the
motor works but doesnt come up to speed...there is a good chance that a
new Capacitor would solve it. If high speed doesnt work at all, then its
the high speed winding thats gone., in which case youd have to replace
the motor.

'how do you tell if the inducer isn't working properly it does make a
little noisy sound--not quite right'

That particular Rheem furnace has somewhat noisy Inducers even right
from the factory. If it isnt working right...the amps usually go up on
it / it vibrates excessively / the motor can be hotter than normal /
and it can make high pitched noises indicating (usually) that the
bearings are worn and going out. Make sure the mounting nuts havent
worked loose. Oil it if you can.

'Is there anything else to check on the condensate trap and/or the port
where the tube from the condensate trap goes to on the main unit. What
should inside the port look like when one takes off the tube.'

Pull off all the tubes and make sure theres no debris at each nipple.
Also, blow thru each tube to be sure theres no obstructions. The port
should be wide open when you take the tubes off. BLow thru the
condensate trap to remove any debris that accumulated, then, refill the
trap with water before operating the furnace.

'The furnace is 12 years old and for the most part has worked fairly
well until recently, but we have had a lot of remodling going on and I
would like to get at least another year or 2 out of this furnace before
I replace it with a new one.
Thanks'

There were alot of problems with these RHeem first generation 90 plus
furnaces ; have it checked and cleaned every year. Heat exchangers have
been a big problem in the 1980's-1990's. Have it looked at closely and
have a carbon monoxide detector in your living area --- NightHawk at
Menards gives you a ppm digital readout . Cost is $40

On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 19:06:18 -0600, (Hello
Friend) wrote:

'can I replace just the motor for the blower if that is the cause of the
hi speed not to work or just leave it alone or is there somoething else
I can check to see like the capicitor (and how to check it)'

Yes..you can change out the motor only. You dont have to replace the
blower wheel unless it is out of balance . If the high speed for the
motor works but doesnt come up to speed...there is a good chance that a
new Capacitor would solve it. If high speed doesnt work at all, then its
the high speed winding thats gone., in which case youd have to replace
the motor.

Hello dont know. If the high speed went out only, its not the cap. If
they all went out, then try the cap or replace the motor.

'how do you tell if the inducer isn't working properly it does make a
little noisy sound--not quite right'

That particular Rheem furnace has somewhat noisy Inducers even right
from the factory. If it isnt working right...the amps usually go up on
it / it vibrates excessively / the motor can be hotter than normal /
and it can make high pitched noises indicating (usually) that the
bearings are worn and going out. Make sure the mounting nuts havent
worked loose. Oil it if you can.

Hello dont know. No noiser than any other. Oil and Inducer? Where?

'Is there anything else to check on the condensate trap and/or the port
where the tube from the condensate trap goes to on the main unit. What
should inside the port look like when one takes off the tube.'

Pull off all the tubes and make sure theres no debris at each nipple.
Also, blow thru each tube to be sure theres no obstructions. The port
should be wide open when you take the tubes off. BLow thru the
condensate trap to remove any debris that accumulated, then, refill the
trap with water before operating the furnace.

Hello still dont know. Blow through the condensate tubes? Do you know
what kind of **** grows in there? Most would flush it with hot water
and then put in a bit of bleach or a coil cleaning product or tablets
in the cooling coil pan to inhibit growth. Here, blow on this....

'The furnace is 12 years old and for the most part has worked fairly
well until recently, but we have had a lot of remodling going on and I
would like to get at least another year or 2 out of this furnace before
I replace it with a new one.
Thanks'

There were alot of problems with these RHeem first generation 90 plus
furnaces ; have it checked and cleaned every year. Heat exchangers have
been a big problem in the 1980's-1990's. Have it looked at closely and
have a carbon monoxide detector in your living area --- NightHawk at
Menards gives you a ppm digital readout . Cost is $40

Hello dont have a clue.
Or go to http://www.coexperts.com/ and get a real CO detector. Dont
plan on paying $40 for it though.
Honestly Hello, sometimes I wonder where you get your info?
Bubba

"patliz1" wrote in message
oups.com...
After doing a lot of troubleshooting like clearing the condensate trap
(water was getting in the pressure switch line), changed the ifc board
last year, changing the igniter, fixing a faulting ground to the
furnace switch (electrician did not ground it properly) replaced the
thermostat (old one had corroded contacts and a lot of drywall dust,
checking the voltage across the pressure switch (it's working) and now
changing the blower speed leads (The high speed was not working
right-causing the furnace to overheat and shutdown--so I changed it to
med hi--much better so far)and soon I'll be changing some of the tubing
to the condensate trap the questions now a

can I replace just the motor for the blower if that is the cause of the
hi speed not to work or just leave it alone or is there somoething else
I can check to see like the capicitor (and how to check it)

how do you tell if the inducer isn't working properly it does make a
little noisy sound--not quite right

Is there anything else to check on the condensate trap and/or the port
where the tube from the condensate trap goes to on the main unit. What
should inside the port look like when one takes off the tube.

The furnace is 12 years old and for the most part has worked fairly
well until recently, but we have had a lot of remodling going on and I
would like to get at least another year or 2 out of this furnace before
I replace it with a new one.

Thanks


This is Turtle.

It would be nice to see the full model number and and serial number to look up
the spect sheets for it with and also describe what make you think the fan motor
was bad for it not moving evough of air to not go down on high time.

TURTLE

TURTLE wrote:
"patliz1" wrote in message
oups.com...
After doing a lot of troubleshooting like clearing the condensate
trap
(water was getting in the pressure switch line), changed the ifc
board
last year, changing the igniter, fixing a faulting ground to the
furnace switch (electrician did not ground it properly) replaced
the
thermostat (old one had corroded contacts and a lot of drywall
dust,
checking the voltage across the pressure switch (it's working) and
now
changing the blower speed leads (The high speed was not working
right-causing the furnace to overheat and shutdown--so I changed it
to
med hi--much better so far)and soon I'll be changing some of the
tubing
to the condensate trap the questions now a

can I replace just the motor for the blower if that is the cause of
the
hi speed not to work or just leave it alone or is there somoething
else
I can check to see like the capicitor (and how to check it)

how do you tell if the inducer isn't working properly it does make
a
little noisy sound--not quite right

Is there anything else to check on the condensate trap and/or the
port
where the tube from the condensate trap goes to on the main unit.
What
should inside the port look like when one takes off the tube.

The furnace is 12 years old and for the most part has worked fairly
well until recently, but we have had a lot of remodling going on
and I
would like to get at least another year or 2 out of this furnace
before
I replace it with a new one.

Thanks


This is Turtle.

It would be nice to see the full model number and and serial number
to look up
the spect sheets for it with and also describe what make you think
the fan motor
was bad for it not moving evough of air to not go down on high time.

TURTLE

I believe it is an RGED09ERAJS serial Number BU5D707M0693 (I don't have
my notes with me , but I am looking at something that I down;oaded
yesterday that explains all the codes).

When the furnace used to turn on I would get a little air coming out at
first than a lot of air, now it just seems that there is onl a little
bit of air coming out. When I replaced the hi speed lead with the med
hi speed--the fan now blows more air out and it is not going into
safety mode, although I haven't been at home during the day--at night
the temperature seems to be holdig constant to where I set it.

How can once test the rpm's of the motor to make sure it is bad at hi
speed and not something else?

"patliz1" wrote in message
ups.com...

TURTLE wrote:
"patliz1" wrote in message
oups.com...
After doing a lot of troubleshooting like clearing the condensate
trap
(water was getting in the pressure switch line), changed the ifc
board
last year, changing the igniter, fixing a faulting ground to the
furnace switch (electrician did not ground it properly) replaced
the
thermostat (old one had corroded contacts and a lot of drywall
dust,
checking the voltage across the pressure switch (it's working) and
now
changing the blower speed leads (The high speed was not working
right-causing the furnace to overheat and shutdown--so I changed it
to
med hi--much better so far)and soon I'll be changing some of the
tubing
to the condensate trap the questions now a

can I replace just the motor for the blower if that is the cause of
the
hi speed not to work or just leave it alone or is there somoething
else
I can check to see like the capicitor (and how to check it)

how do you tell if the inducer isn't working properly it does make
a
little noisy sound--not quite right

Is there anything else to check on the condensate trap and/or the
port
where the tube from the condensate trap goes to on the main unit.
What
should inside the port look like when one takes off the tube.

The furnace is 12 years old and for the most part has worked fairly
well until recently, but we have had a lot of remodling going on
and I
would like to get at least another year or 2 out of this furnace
before
I replace it with a new one.

Thanks


This is Turtle.

It would be nice to see the full model number and and serial number
to look up
the spect sheets for it with and also describe what make you think
the fan motor
was bad for it not moving evough of air to not go down on high time.

TURTLE

I believe it is an RGED09ERAJS serial Number BU5D707M0693 (I don't have
my notes with me , but I am looking at something that I down;oaded
yesterday that explains all the codes).

When the furnace used to turn on I would get a little air coming out at
first than a lot of air, now it just seems that there is onl a little
bit of air coming out. When I replaced the hi speed lead with the med
hi speed--the fan now blows more air out and it is not going into
safety mode, although I haven't been at home during the day--at night
the temperature seems to be holdig constant to where I set it.

How can once test the rpm's of the motor to make sure it is bad at hi
speed and not something else?


This is Turtle.

First you replaced the High Speed with the Med. High speed and it works good but
what did you do with the high speed. Did you tape it off, put it on the low
speed terminal, Put it On the Dead Head rack, or What ?

What I think is you put the medium high on the the first stage modulating spade
and put the second stage modulation spade you put the high speed. The modulator
is not shifting and staying in first stage and the new thermostat you installed
you did not tie in the second stage blow speed to be activated by the thermostat
and depending on the furnace IFC board to shift it for you. I can't find your
type furnace in the shooting guide for the E in the first 4 digits of the model
number does not show it as a Modulation Model as listed as of today. it can be a
obsolete mode and not show up. Now since your going to depend on the furnace to
switch the Modulation of the blower your going to have to figure out the chip
switches to make it switch for you. Now you need to get the installation
instruction with it and figure out to use the IFC board to switch for you.

Now if you truely switched the speed to be configurated correctly and did not
change the thermostat. This still leaves you at a point of deciding that the
high speed is defective or the IFC board is not shifting it correctly. Now I
would say reconfigurate the IFC board for you may have install the new one
during the summer and did not see the heat mess up with it not being
configurated correctly or if no help change the EMC blower motor out.

TURTLE

Sorry the model is rged-09erajs serial bu50707 m149352. I took the
black wire that was on hi speed and put it on the m1 spade and put the
blue wire on the heat spade. the ifc was replaced with the protecg ut
control board 62-25341-81. The thermostat is a new honeywell 7 day
programmable Model CT8602C 2009. I'll have to look at the settings
wheen I get home. I just replaced the wires as to how they were there
before.

TURTLE wrote:
"patliz1" wrote in message
ups.com...

TURTLE wrote:
"patliz1" wrote in message
oups.com...
After doing a lot of troubleshooting like clearing the
condensate
trap
(water was getting in the pressure switch line), changed the ifc
board
last year, changing the igniter, fixing a faulting ground to the
furnace switch (electrician did not ground it properly) replaced
the
thermostat (old one had corroded contacts and a lot of drywall
dust,
checking the voltage across the pressure switch (it's working)
and
now
changing the blower speed leads (The high speed was not working
right-causing the furnace to overheat and shutdown--so I changed
it
to
med hi--much better so far)and soon I'll be changing some of the
tubing
to the condensate trap the questions now a

can I replace just the motor for the blower if that is the cause
of
the
hi speed not to work or just leave it alone or is there
somoething
else
I can check to see like the capicitor (and how to check it)

how do you tell if the inducer isn't working properly it does
make
a
little noisy sound--not quite right

Is there anything else to check on the condensate trap and/or
the
port
where the tube from the condensate trap goes to on the main
unit.
What
should inside the port look like when one takes off the tube.

The furnace is 12 years old and for the most part has worked
fairly
well until recently, but we have had a lot of remodling going on
and I
would like to get at least another year or 2 out of this furnace
before
I replace it with a new one.

Thanks


This is Turtle.

It would be nice to see the full model number and and serial
number
to look up
the spect sheets for it with and also describe what make you think
the fan motor
was bad for it not moving evough of air to not go down on high
time.

TURTLE

I believe it is an RGED09ERAJS serial Number BU5D707M0693 (I don't
have
my notes with me , but I am looking at something that I down;oaded
yesterday that explains all the codes).

When the furnace used to turn on I would get a little air coming
out at
first than a lot of air, now it just seems that there is onl a
little
bit of air coming out. When I replaced the hi speed lead with the
med
hi speed--the fan now blows more air out and it is not going into
safety mode, although I haven't been at home during the day--at
night
the temperature seems to be holdig constant to where I set it.

How can once test the rpm's of the motor to make sure it is bad at
hi
speed and not something else?


This is Turtle.

First you replaced the High Speed with the Med. High speed and it
works good but
what did you do with the high speed. Did you tape it off, put it on
the low
speed terminal, Put it On the Dead Head rack, or What ?

What I think is you put the medium high on the the first stage
modulating spade
and put the second stage modulation spade you put the high speed. The
modulator
is not shifting and staying in first stage and the new thermostat you
installed
you did not tie in the second stage blow speed to be activated by the
thermostat
and depending on the furnace IFC board to shift it for you. I can't
find your
type furnace in the shooting guide for the E in the first 4 digits of
the model
number does not show it as a Modulation Model as listed as of today.
it can be a
obsolete mode and not show up. Now since your going to depend on the
furnace to
switch the Modulation of the blower your going to have to figure out
the chip
switches to make it switch for you. Now you need to get the
installation
instruction with it and figure out to use the IFC board to switch for
you.

Now if you truely switched the speed to be configurated correctly and
did not
change the thermostat. This still leaves you at a point of deciding
that the
high speed is defective or the IFC board is not shifting it
correctly. Now I
would say reconfigurate the IFC board for you may have install the
new one
during the summer and did not see the heat mess up with it not being
configurated correctly or if no help change the EMC blower motor out.

TURTLE

"patliz1" wrote in message
ups.com...
Sorry the model is rged-09erajs serial bu50707 m149352. I took the
black wire that was on hi speed and put it on the m1 spade and put the
blue wire on the heat spade. the ifc was replaced with the protecg ut
control board 62-25341-81. The thermostat is a new honeywell 7 day
programmable Model CT8602C 2009. I'll have to look at the settings
wheen I get home. I just replaced the wires as to how they were there
before.


This is Turtle.

If you done as above and only that as of above. Then the furnace runs on low
speed for sometime and then shifts to a almost the higher speed as it use to run
at. You have a high speed going out in the motor it'self. You have with a 4
speed motor multi-motors in side one shell to run one and the others being burnt
up. You can have one or more speeds work fine and the others being burnt up.

Yes the motor can be changed just like the IFC card was but just a little more
work.

It's hard to trouble shoot over the internet.

TURTLE