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TURTLE
 
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"patliz1" wrote in message
ups.com...

TURTLE wrote:
"patliz1" wrote in message
oups.com...
After doing a lot of troubleshooting like clearing the condensate

trap
(water was getting in the pressure switch line), changed the ifc

board
last year, changing the igniter, fixing a faulting ground to the
furnace switch (electrician did not ground it properly) replaced

the
thermostat (old one had corroded contacts and a lot of drywall

dust,
checking the voltage across the pressure switch (it's working) and

now
changing the blower speed leads (The high speed was not working
right-causing the furnace to overheat and shutdown--so I changed it

to
med hi--much better so far)and soon I'll be changing some of the

tubing
to the condensate trap the questions now a

can I replace just the motor for the blower if that is the cause of

the
hi speed not to work or just leave it alone or is there somoething

else
I can check to see like the capicitor (and how to check it)

how do you tell if the inducer isn't working properly it does make

a
little noisy sound--not quite right

Is there anything else to check on the condensate trap and/or the

port
where the tube from the condensate trap goes to on the main unit.

What
should inside the port look like when one takes off the tube.

The furnace is 12 years old and for the most part has worked fairly
well until recently, but we have had a lot of remodling going on

and I
would like to get at least another year or 2 out of this furnace

before
I replace it with a new one.

Thanks


This is Turtle.

It would be nice to see the full model number and and serial number

to look up
the spect sheets for it with and also describe what make you think

the fan motor
was bad for it not moving evough of air to not go down on high time.

TURTLE


I believe it is an RGED09ERAJS serial Number BU5D707M0693 (I don't have
my notes with me , but I am looking at something that I down;oaded
yesterday that explains all the codes).

When the furnace used to turn on I would get a little air coming out at
first than a lot of air, now it just seems that there is onl a little
bit of air coming out. When I replaced the hi speed lead with the med
hi speed--the fan now blows more air out and it is not going into
safety mode, although I haven't been at home during the day--at night
the temperature seems to be holdig constant to where I set it.

How can once test the rpm's of the motor to make sure it is bad at hi
speed and not something else?


This is Turtle.

First you replaced the High Speed with the Med. High speed and it works good but
what did you do with the high speed. Did you tape it off, put it on the low
speed terminal, Put it On the Dead Head rack, or What ?

What I think is you put the medium high on the the first stage modulating spade
and put the second stage modulation spade you put the high speed. The modulator
is not shifting and staying in first stage and the new thermostat you installed
you did not tie in the second stage blow speed to be activated by the thermostat
and depending on the furnace IFC board to shift it for you. I can't find your
type furnace in the shooting guide for the E in the first 4 digits of the model
number does not show it as a Modulation Model as listed as of today. it can be a
obsolete mode and not show up. Now since your going to depend on the furnace to
switch the Modulation of the blower your going to have to figure out the chip
switches to make it switch for you. Now you need to get the installation
instruction with it and figure out to use the IFC board to switch for you.

Now if you truely switched the speed to be configurated correctly and did not
change the thermostat. This still leaves you at a point of deciding that the
high speed is defective or the IFC board is not shifting it correctly. Now I
would say reconfigurate the IFC board for you may have install the new one
during the summer and did not see the heat mess up with it not being
configurated correctly or if no help change the EMC blower motor out.

TURTLE