This is a very dangerous job, and many people have been hurt winding up
those springs !! I would call around and get 2 or 3 estimates, and have a
garage door expert do it. Also, I would replace both springs at the same
time.

I cannot recall the expense, sorry. I do know that it is important to get
several estimates.



--James--

Had mine replaced two yrs ago $159.00.

Tom

"James Nipper" wrote in message
...


This is a very dangerous job, and many people have been hurt winding up
those springs !! I would call around and get 2 or 3 estimates, and have a
garage door expert do it. Also, I would replace both springs at the same
time.

I cannot recall the expense, sorry. I do know that it is important to
get
several estimates.



--James--

Ignoramus11573 wrote:
2 car garage. Very heavy door, supported by two torsion springs. One
spring broke today. I could barely lift the garage door, right now it
is fixed in the up position with a C clamp on the rail.

I am relatively handy when it comes to say making fuel tanks, fixing
boats or repairing diesel generators etc, meaning that I can figure
out problems and address them, often with the help of these
newsgroups.

My weakness is lack of hand-eye coordination. So I am afraid that I
could somehow improperly insert some tool into the spring while
winding, and break my arm or teeth.

So, if possible I would like to do this repair myself, this
Sunday. The weather is turning for snow and both keeping the garage
open with cars inside, and closed with cars outside, are bad
solutions.

So...

0. How much could it cost to hire a pro to replace one spring,
vs. DIY.

1. Are all garage springs the same? If not, how can I find out what
kind I need?

2. Are there some modern thingamagiggys for winding springs that are
safe?

3. How unsafe is the process of winding springs

4. Is it a wise idea to replace both springs at the same time?

5. Are these different quality springs, is it the kind of business
where you get what you pay for?

I need some input for making a decision. (pro vs. DIY and 1 vs 2
springs) If I decide to do it myself, I will ask for more help but
will consult google first.

Thanks!


Check out Clopay EZ-Set Spring Systems. Replace them both

no all springs r not the same. if you do it yourself , take 1 w/ you. 1 is a
right hand wound and 1 is left hand wound. there is a gadget you can get that u
attatch to your drill and it supposedly will turn the spring

Don't do it yourself. Very dangerous job. Probably less than $150 for both
springs replaced. Watch out for a large yellow page ad about $29.95 garage
door service. There is a national rip off chain with a low come on price
and then they tell you you need $800 of hinges and ball bearings. FOrget
it. If there is a Wayne Dalton store near you call them. They repair all
brands near me and are reasonable. Also they make really neat doors and
openers.
http://www.wayne-dalton.com/idrive_Torsion.asp



"Ignoramus11573" wrote in message
...
2 car garage. Very heavy door, supported by two torsion springs. One
spring broke today. I could barely lift the garage door, right now it
is fixed in the up position with a C clamp on the rail.

I am relatively handy when it comes to say making fuel tanks, fixing
boats or repairing diesel generators etc, meaning that I can figure
out problems and address them, often with the help of these
newsgroups.

My weakness is lack of hand-eye coordination. So I am afraid that I
could somehow improperly insert some tool into the spring while
winding, and break my arm or teeth.

So, if possible I would like to do this repair myself, this
Sunday. The weather is turning for snow and both keeping the garage
open with cars inside, and closed with cars outside, are bad
solutions.

So...

0. How much could it cost to hire a pro to replace one spring,
vs. DIY.

1. Are all garage springs the same? If not, how can I find out what
kind I need?

2. Are there some modern thingamagiggys for winding springs that are
safe?

3. How unsafe is the process of winding springs

4. Is it a wise idea to replace both springs at the same time?

5. Are these different quality springs, is it the kind of business
where you get what you pay for?

I need some input for making a decision. (pro vs. DIY and 1 vs 2
springs) If I decide to do it myself, I will ask for more help but
will consult google first.

Thanks!

i

You can do it if you choose, easy enough to get a couple of the right sized
rods to wind it. And if you were able to get the door up without having to
use a car jack or ratchet hoist, it's probably not as heavy as my 500+ pound
one.
But in view of the weather, and your inexperience, I suggest you have it
done, and get both of them replaced at the same time.
Call around, but it would be nice if you already knew the weight of the
door. But to do that, you need to release the intact spring, and you'd need
a couple of winding rods to do it. After lowering the door. By that time,
you'd have realized you could do it yourself. But that door likely weighs
just under 300 pounds, and an accident can be merely serious, or lethal.

Ignoramus11573 wrote in message
...
2 car garage. Very heavy door, supported by two torsion springs. One
spring broke today. I could barely lift the garage door, right now it
is fixed in the up position with a C clamp on the rail.

I am relatively handy when it comes to say making fuel tanks, fixing
boats or repairing diesel generators etc, meaning that I can figure
out problems and address them, often with the help of these
newsgroups.

My weakness is lack of hand-eye coordination. So I am afraid that I
could somehow improperly insert some tool into the spring while
winding, and break my arm or teeth.

So, if possible I would like to do this repair myself, this
Sunday. The weather is turning for snow and both keeping the garage
open with cars inside, and closed with cars outside, are bad
solutions.

So...

0. How much could it cost to hire a pro to replace one spring,
vs. DIY.

1. Are all garage springs the same? If not, how can I find out what
kind I need?

2. Are there some modern thingamagiggys for winding springs that are
safe?

3. How unsafe is the process of winding springs

4. Is it a wise idea to replace both springs at the same time?

5. Are these different quality springs, is it the kind of business
where you get what you pay for?

I need some input for making a decision. (pro vs. DIY and 1 vs 2
springs) If I decide to do it myself, I will ask for more help but
will consult google first.

Thanks!

i

On 26 Dec 2004 02:10:52 GMT,
(Playintennis5274) wrote:

no all springs r not the same. if you do it yourself , take 1 w/ you. 1 is a
right hand wound and 1 is left hand wound. there is a gadget you can get that u
attatch to your drill and it supposedly will turn the spring


Here in the suburbs of Portland, there are a bunch of guys in the
phone book who do this work excusively. I was fortunate to pick an
honest company. All major US cities have garage door spring
replacement guys listed in the phone book.

They charged me $85.00 to replace both springs (parts and labor).
Like others have said in this post, it can be dangerous to do this
yourself. There is a very definite point by point procedure. In
addition the tension has to be set properly. I watched they guy do
this and decided that this job was definitely left to the "experts".

The purpose of the springs is to, in effect, make the weight of a
closed door "lighter" so that a small 1/4 or 1/2 hp. garage door
opener has no problem in lifting the door.

All springs wear out eventually. The bitter cold snap that we are
having right now in some parts of the country makes the springs even
more brittle and this is usually when they break.

Beachcomber

Be carefull you don't contract a fly-by-night outfit out of the phone
book. Sure sign is if they ask for the pagenum when you call -- means that
they have several names that they use as a front.

Look for an outfit that's been around at least 5 years.

AVOID ANY COMPANY WHOSE NAME STARTS WITH A AA OR AAA! AA Garage Company
is sure to be a ripoff outfit that will be gone next year.

With a little common sence you can easily do it yourself, once you have
obtained the proper spring, or springs. All the hype about the safty
issue around this seems very discouraging, but I am a novice and did the
change myself using a couple 18" peices of 1/2" rebar to turn the
springs. Beside the proper wrenches little else is needed unless you
need to grind down some of the torsion bar to get the old spring off or
new one on. Find out how many turns of the circular stripes on the
spring you need, that is probably the same as are already on the
remaining spring.
If you have the extra $50 to $60 bucks for a second spring you could
easily put it on when you do the broken one, but I am frugle and will
wait for the second one to give up before spending that money. It has
been two years and the good spring still is working fine on mine.
No biggie, just be carefull. JMO

For a first timer, it'll take quite a while, because you have to learn
what's there first.
Best way to do it is to go ahead and carefully lower the door. Then
release the remaining spring. See the winding cone? That's the part
at the end of the spring closest to the outer part of the door. There
are two holes in it, and the winding bars MUST be all the way
in before you do anything. Have your ladder positioned so that your
head and body are distanced from the winding cone. The spring is
wound, you hold it in place with the bars as you loosen the two
bolts holding cone to shaft. Then, after you've loosened them and
the tension is on the winding bars, you loosen the pressure a quarter
turn at a time by holding one of the bars in as you take the other one
out and put it into the next hole.
Check the size of the holes, get a 4' bar of the same size, cut it in half,
and use the two as winding bars. Put a wrap of electrical tape at the
point that the bar is fully in, and don't make a move till it's fully in.
Keep your hand protected from initial spring tension as you loosen the bolts
of the winding cone, the amount of tension can surprise you. Takes
maybe 5 minutes to unwind a spring if you're being very slow and methodical,
which is the only way to do it.
Careful lowering the door, use a C-clamp on both rails, or get someone
to help you. That door is damned heavy, and can get away from you
easily. I used a 6-ton ratchet from Harbor Freight on both sides, and slowly
lowered a ratchet space at a time to keep from causing the door
to come down with a twist.

Ignoramus11573 wrote in message
...
how long did it take you? Thanks!

i

On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 03:17:40 GMT, wtb wrote:
With a little common sence you can easily do it yourself, once you have
obtained the proper spring, or springs. All the hype about the safty
issue around this seems very discouraging, but I am a novice and did the
change myself using a couple 18" peices of 1/2" rebar to turn the
springs. Beside the proper wrenches little else is needed unless you
need to grind down some of the torsion bar to get the old spring off or
new one on. Find out how many turns of the circular stripes on the
spring you need, that is probably the same as are already on the
remaining spring.
If you have the extra $50 to $60 bucks for a second spring you could
easily put it on when you do the broken one, but I am frugle and will
wait for the second one to give up before spending that money. It has
been two years and the good spring still is working fine on mine.
No biggie, just be carefull. JMO


--

when all goes well, its easy to do it yourself... it looks deceptively safe
and easy too. but when it doesnt the penalty may be high.

you decide. im surprised this time around there seems to be more dont do
its than its safe's.

randy

"wtb" wrote in message
news
With a little common sence you can easily do it yourself, once you have
obtained the proper spring, or springs. All the hype about the safty
issue around this seems very discouraging, but I am a novice and did the
change myself using a couple 18" peices of 1/2" rebar to turn the springs.
Beside the proper wrenches little else is needed unless you need to grind
down some of the torsion bar to get the old spring off or new one on.
Find out how many turns of the circular stripes on the spring you need,
that is probably the same as are already on the remaining spring.
If you have the extra $50 to $60 bucks for a second spring you could
easily put it on when you do the broken one, but I am frugle and will wait
for the second one to give up before spending that money. It has been two
years and the good spring still is working fine on mine.
No biggie, just be carefull. JMO

On 25 Dec 2004 23:53:02 GMT "Ignoramus11573"
used 43 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair

If I decide to do it myself, I will ask for more help but


You're only going to save about $40-$70 by doing it yourself. It will take you
all day since this is your first attempt.


1 You'll need to lower the door with only one spring ( a bitch) and safely
unwind it (a bitch if you have never done it)

2 Remove the whole torsion bar.

3 Get the old springs off (a bitch if the bar is rusty or deformed)

4 Find the correct springs for a replacement (a bitch if you don't know WHERE
to buy or WHAT to buy)

5 install new springs on torsion bar (yes, replace them both)

6 Wind ONE spring (two springs are harder) you wind one first, then set the
cables

7 Wind the other spring

8 Test the door, then add or subtract winds if tension is wrong

Besides this being a semi-dangerous job, you'll likely not have the proper tools
(winding bars, cordless impact etc...) Add that to you self admitted lack of
hand-eye coordination and health not up to 100% and your looking at some major
headache and frustration. Trust me, hire out the job.





--
-Graham

Remove the 'snails' from my email

See my page:

http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm

You, sir, are the reason I decided to try doing it myself.
Indeed, it can be dangerous, and your commentary was excellent.
I'm glad you're still around here so that I could thank you.

Now, indeed, this is really crappy weather to be learning how to
do it, and it would probably be more appropriate to have it done
by a pro, but your commentary would also help someone that is
having it done keep from getting screwed.

Richard J Kinch wrote in message
. ..
See my page:

http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm

You guys are backwards. If the door is all the way UP, then the tension is
mostly relieved. Sometimes you can pull the rope to disconnect the opener,
then push the door back far enough to get in the space between door & wall.
Use 2 C-clamps on the rails to hold the door in the up position. Then change
the springs, put about one turn on them and then hook the cables to the door
with the cable wound all the way around the 2 drums. Saves a LOT of
spring-winding

"G. Morgan" wrote in message
...
On 25 Dec 2004 23:53:02 GMT "Ignoramus11573"
used 43 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair

If I decide to do it myself, I will ask for more help but


You're only going to save about $40-$70 by doing it yourself. It will
take you
all day since this is your first attempt.


1 You'll need to lower the door with only one spring ( a bitch) and
safely
unwind it (a bitch if you have never done it)

2 Remove the whole torsion bar.

3 Get the old springs off (a bitch if the bar is rusty or deformed)

4 Find the correct springs for a replacement (a bitch if you don't know
WHERE
to buy or WHAT to buy)

5 install new springs on torsion bar (yes, replace them both)

6 Wind ONE spring (two springs are harder) you wind one first, then set
the
cables

7 Wind the other spring

8 Test the door, then add or subtract winds if tension is wrong

Besides this being a semi-dangerous job, you'll likely not have the proper
tools
(winding bars, cordless impact etc...) Add that to you self admitted lack
of
hand-eye coordination and health not up to 100% and your looking at some
major
headache and frustration. Trust me, hire out the job.





--
-Graham

Remove the 'snails' from my email

assuming you can get to them with the door up..

randy

"Tocapet" wrote in message
...
You guys are backwards. If the door is all the way UP, then the tension
is mostly relieved. Sometimes you can pull the rope to disconnect the
opener, then push the door back far enough to get in the space between
door & wall. Use 2 C-clamps on the rails to hold the door in the up
position. Then change the springs, put about one turn on them and then
hook the cables to the door with the cable wound all the way around the 2
drums. Saves a LOT of spring-winding

"G. Morgan" wrote in message
...
On 25 Dec 2004 23:53:02 GMT "Ignoramus11573"
used 43 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair

If I decide to do it myself, I will ask for more help but


You're only going to save about $40-$70 by doing it yourself. It will
take you
all day since this is your first attempt.


1 You'll need to lower the door with only one spring ( a bitch) and
safely
unwind it (a bitch if you have never done it)

2 Remove the whole torsion bar.

3 Get the old springs off (a bitch if the bar is rusty or deformed)

4 Find the correct springs for a replacement (a bitch if you don't know
WHERE
to buy or WHAT to buy)

5 install new springs on torsion bar (yes, replace them both)

6 Wind ONE spring (two springs are harder) you wind one first, then set
the
cables

7 Wind the other spring

8 Test the door, then add or subtract winds if tension is wrong

Besides this being a semi-dangerous job, you'll likely not have the
proper tools
(winding bars, cordless impact etc...) Add that to you self admitted
lack of
hand-eye coordination and health not up to 100% and your looking at some
major
headache and frustration. Trust me, hire out the job.





--
-Graham

Remove the 'snails' from my email

Yes, generally the door is in the way of doing it.

xrongor wrote in message
...
assuming you can get to them with the door up..

randy

"Tocapet" wrote in message
...
You guys are backwards. If the door is all the way UP, then the tension
is mostly relieved. Sometimes you can pull the rope to disconnect the
opener, then push the door back far enough to get in the space between
door & wall. Use 2 C-clamps on the rails to hold the door in the up
position. Then change the springs, put about one turn on them and then
hook the cables to the door with the cable wound all the way around the
2
drums. Saves a LOT of spring-winding

"G. Morgan" wrote in message
...
On 25 Dec 2004 23:53:02 GMT "Ignoramus11573"
used 43 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair

If I decide to do it myself, I will ask for more help but


You're only going to save about $40-$70 by doing it yourself. It will
take you
all day since this is your first attempt.


1 You'll need to lower the door with only one spring ( a bitch) and
safely
unwind it (a bitch if you have never done it)

2 Remove the whole torsion bar.

3 Get the old springs off (a bitch if the bar is rusty or deformed)

4 Find the correct springs for a replacement (a bitch if you don't
know
WHERE
to buy or WHAT to buy)

5 install new springs on torsion bar (yes, replace them both)

6 Wind ONE spring (two springs are harder) you wind one first, then
set
the
cables

7 Wind the other spring

8 Test the door, then add or subtract winds if tension is wrong

Besides this being a semi-dangerous job, you'll likely not have the
proper tools
(winding bars, cordless impact etc...) Add that to you self admitted
lack of
hand-eye coordination and health not up to 100% and your looking at
some
major
headache and frustration. Trust me, hire out the job.





--
-Graham

Remove the 'snails' from my email

Excellent write up!!

Replacement of a torsion spring isn't that dangerous if you're careful
and know what you're doing.



On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 00:55:17 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

See my page:

http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm

No all springs are not the same & the two on your door may or may not
be the same wire size & length so you have to measure both of them
(unwound)

If you don't know what you are doing it can be very unsafe. Equipped w/
the right tools (mainly proper bars) & knowledge it still can be risky
but manageable, but it's not something I recommend that the average
homeowner attempt to do.

We normally recommend changing both springs at the same time since they
are under the same amount of tension & will usually fatigue at the same
rate. However, if the two springs are of a different wire size one may
last longer then the other, but the average life cycle is 7-8 years.

The quaility of the spring material is pretty much the same but the
galvanized steel springs that some are starting to use is expected to
last longer then the non-galvanized. However the wire size & length of
the spring determines it's life cycle for the proper amount of turns.
Springs are rated by IPPT (inch pounds per turn or lifting force) & the
larger the wire size, the longer the spring will be for the same IPPT,
& hence the longer the spring will last.
Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com

Really, it's not worth your time. As already stated, you will not save that
much money. I had mine done by a reputable local company for $35 more than I
could buy the springs for. When he was done he lubricated the door and spent
almost as much time adjusting the door and the opener as it took him to
install the springs. The door had never worked as well since I owned the
house. Money well spent.

DIY is good, but sometimes it is a fools folly. I just built a 500sqft
addition on my home. I went out and priced the insulation and was not
looking forward to that part of the job. So much so that I thought that I
would check with insulation contractors to see if the extra money would be
worth me not having to itch for a week afterwards. After calling around I
got the entire thing done for $100 LESS than I could have done it for.
Sometime it's smart to have someone else do the job if that's what they do
for a living.
I like being frugal (read cheap), but not stupid.

CR



"Ignoramus11573" wrote in message
...
2 car garage. Very heavy door, supported by two torsion springs. One
spring broke today. I could barely lift the garage door, right now it
is fixed in the up position with a C clamp on the rail.

I am relatively handy when it comes to say making fuel tanks, fixing
boats or repairing diesel generators etc, meaning that I can figure
out problems and address them, often with the help of these
newsgroups.

My weakness is lack of hand-eye coordination. So I am afraid that I
could somehow improperly insert some tool into the spring while
winding, and break my arm or teeth.

So, if possible I would like to do this repair myself, this
Sunday. The weather is turning for snow and both keeping the garage
open with cars inside, and closed with cars outside, are bad
solutions.

So...

0. How much could it cost to hire a pro to replace one spring,
vs. DIY.

1. Are all garage springs the same? If not, how can I find out what
kind I need?

2. Are there some modern thingamagiggys for winding springs that are
safe?

3. How unsafe is the process of winding springs

4. Is it a wise idea to replace both springs at the same time?

5. Are these different quality springs, is it the kind of business
where you get what you pay for?

I need some input for making a decision. (pro vs. DIY and 1 vs 2
springs) If I decide to do it myself, I will ask for more help but
will consult google first.

Thanks!

i

Same thing goes for operating a table saw, driving a car,
installing a window, etc. They're all dangerous, but it really gets
tiresome hearing about how the homeowner should never consider
trying to learn. Instead, they have some knuckle-dragger come out and
install the spring that he has on the truck, instead of the right one

davefr wrote in message
...
Excellent write up!!

Replacement of a torsion spring isn't that dangerous if you're careful
and know what you're doing.


On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 00:55:17 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

See my page:

http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm

Yep, same here, only the item was carpeting. Got the same carpet,
with pad, installed for almost the same price of me getting it, having
it delivered, and installing it myself.

But it is worth the homeowner's time to learn how to do it, so they are more
diligent about watching for hangups in the track, poor lubrication,
etc.
Speaking of lubrication, a lot of folks grease the rails. But that just
causes dirt and other debris that the door collects to be deposited
in the rail. Causing problems.
If a person can get a good deal, it's far better to have it done. Instead of
agonizing over it, and having to learn everything at once.

CR wrote in message
...
Really, it's not worth your time. As already stated, you will not save
that
much money. I had mine done by a reputable local company for $35 more than
I
could buy the springs for. When he was done he lubricated the door and
spent
almost as much time adjusting the door and the opener as it took him to
install the springs. The door had never worked as well since I owned the
house. Money well spent.

DIY is good, but sometimes it is a fools folly. I just built a 500sqft
addition on my home. I went out and priced the insulation and was not
looking forward to that part of the job. So much so that I thought that I
would check with insulation contractors to see if the extra money would be
worth me not having to itch for a week afterwards. After calling around I
got the entire thing done for $100 LESS than I could have done it for.
Sometime it's smart to have someone else do the job if that's what they do
for a living.
I like being frugal (read cheap), but not stupid.

CR



"Ignoramus11573" wrote in message
...
2 car garage. Very heavy door, supported by two torsion springs. One
spring broke today. I could barely lift the garage door, right now it
is fixed in the up position with a C clamp on the rail.

I am relatively handy when it comes to say making fuel tanks, fixing
boats or repairing diesel generators etc, meaning that I can figure
out problems and address them, often with the help of these
newsgroups.

My weakness is lack of hand-eye coordination. So I am afraid that I
could somehow improperly insert some tool into the spring while
winding, and break my arm or teeth.

So, if possible I would like to do this repair myself, this
Sunday. The weather is turning for snow and both keeping the garage
open with cars inside, and closed with cars outside, are bad
solutions.

So...

0. How much could it cost to hire a pro to replace one spring,
vs. DIY.

1. Are all garage springs the same? If not, how can I find out what
kind I need?

2. Are there some modern thingamagiggys for winding springs that are
safe?

3. How unsafe is the process of winding springs

4. Is it a wise idea to replace both springs at the same time?

5. Are these different quality springs, is it the kind of business
where you get what you pay for?

I need some input for making a decision. (pro vs. DIY and 1 vs 2
springs) If I decide to do it myself, I will ask for more help but
will consult google first.

Thanks!

i

As others have said, it may be best to have it hired out.

On a side,
I replaced two panels of a 14' X 14' commercial door myself a few years ago.
I consider myself a tad more than handy with tools so it did not seem like a
big deal. In the end it was not a problem, but the cautions of the job being
a bit dangerous are true. Standing on an extension ladder,12 feet in the
air, unwinding the springs was an adventure!
For me, the funny part was when I was looking for the replacement panels, a
garage door company told me that I could not do it myself! Comments like
that just make me more determined!
I ended up finding two used panels from someone that drove a truck through
their overhead door.
Greg

Be careful of one with the word "Precision" in the name, at least in my
experience. Had a full page ad and wanted to refurbish the door for $800.
I thru them out.


"TCS" wrote in message
...
Be carefull you don't contract a fly-by-night outfit out of the phone
book. Sure sign is if they ask for the pagenum when you call -- means
that
they have several names that they use as a front.

Look for an outfit that's been around at least 5 years.

AVOID ANY COMPANY WHOSE NAME STARTS WITH A AA OR AAA! AA Garage Company
is sure to be a ripoff outfit that will be gone next year.

I would add that I almost lost my head doing it myself. No joking.


"Ignoramus23411" wrote in message
...
Thanks, all good points.

i

On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 00:08:49 -0600, G Morgan
wrote:
On 25 Dec 2004 23:53:02 GMT "Ignoramus11573"
used 43 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair

If I decide to do it myself, I will ask for more help but


You're only going to save about $40-$70 by doing it yourself. It will
take you
all day since this is your first attempt.


1 You'll need to lower the door with only one spring ( a bitch) and
safely
unwind it (a bitch if you have never done it)

2 Remove the whole torsion bar.

3 Get the old springs off (a bitch if the bar is rusty or deformed)

4 Find the correct springs for a replacement (a bitch if you don't know
WHERE
to buy or WHAT to buy)

5 install new springs on torsion bar (yes, replace them both)

6 Wind ONE spring (two springs are harder) you wind one first, then set
the
cables

7 Wind the other spring

8 Test the door, then add or subtract winds if tension is wrong

Besides this being a semi-dangerous job, you'll likely not have the
proper tools
(winding bars, cordless impact etc...) Add that to you self admitted
lack of
hand-eye coordination and health not up to 100% and your looking at some
major
headache and frustration. Trust me, hire out the job.







--

Good choice.
Knowing how to change oil doesn't mean that you have to be
the one to do it.

Ignoramus23411 wrote in message
...
Besides al the good points that you made, this is not the kind of job
that I would even enjoy. Boring as hell, inconvenient, cold, dark, no
thanks.

i

On 25 Dec 2004 23:53:02 GMT, Ignoramus11573
wrote:

snip

0. How much could it cost to hire a pro to replace one spring,
vs. DIY.

A garage-door mechanic will replace BOTH springs (as it should be
done) for about $200.


1. Are all garage springs the same? If not, how can I find out what
kind I need?

No. The garage door mechanic will have the correct spring.

2. Are there some modern thingamagiggys for winding springs that are
safe?

The garage door mechanic uses two round metal bars, perhaps 24" long.

3. How unsafe is the process of winding springs

Safe for a garage door mechanic. Not safe for the typical home owner.

4. Is it a wise idea to replace both springs at the same time?

Yes.

5. Are these different quality springs, is it the kind of business
where you get what you pay for?

Supposedly most of these are made at the same place.


I need some input for making a decision. (pro vs. DIY and 1 vs 2
springs) If I decide to do it myself, I will ask for more help but
will consult google first.


Call a pro. I know someone who got his thumb torn off messing with a
garage-door spring. He is lucky to be alive.


Thanks!

i

CR writes:

Really, it's not worth your time. As already stated, you will not save
that much money.

It depends. Doing it on one door, one time is not worth learning unless
you just like to learn things. That's the learning curve, but that has
changed to favor DIY with the innovation of ready information on the
Internet.

If you have a lot of doors, or expect to have them over some multiple of
their spring lifetimes (about 7 years), then you'll save plenty. With a
three-door garage over a lifetime of home-ownership, I expect to save
$1000s.

I can now repair my garage door springs faster than I can shop for a
service call and nurse that task along. And I know it is done right.

And you may just save plenty learning simply knowing how its done. I've
gotten plenty of stories from those who have paid as much as $800 for a
job that should cost $100 or $150.

I had mine done by a reputable local company for $35 more than I
could buy the springs for.

Eh? Either the spring were overpriced, or the service was underpriced,
likely the former.

If you priced uninstalled springs from a door dealer, you got either "we
don't sell springs", or a ridiculously high price. They're not really
in that retail business, and they want you to believe that you can have
a service call and installation for only $35.

The door had never worked as well since I owned the house.

Well, then it didn't work right before the spring broke, and if you knew
how to evaluate and adjust them, you could have had it working well all
along. Another benefit learning this yourself.

You'll also have the skills to replace the entire door, if that should
ever become necessary. That's also going to save me a bundle on my
aging, 25-year-old doors.

Phisherman writes:

A garage-door mechanic will replace BOTH springs (as it should be
done) for about $200.

Should be less than that.

The garage door mechanic will have the correct spring.

Not necessarily.

2. Are there some modern thingamagiggys for winding springs that are
safe?

The garage door mechanic uses two round metal bars, perhaps 24" long.

The standard winding bar for residential doors is 1/2" mild steel, 18"
long.

3. How unsafe is the process of winding springs

Safe for a garage door mechanic. Not safe for the typical home owner.

Over 1000 correspondents happily tell me they did it themselves.

Call a pro. I know someone who got his thumb torn off messing with a
garage-door spring. He is lucky to be alive.

No, he got hurt by ignorance of proper technique.

I have spent years trying to sort through the friend-of-a-friend horror
tales to get to the truth of injuries from torsion springs. I have
collected a few reliable first-hand accounts of injuries. The cause
seems to be simply not having the simplest of tools and techniques.

Typically, someone is hurt because he loosens the cone setscrews without
knowing to engage a winding bar first.

5. Are these different quality springs, is it the kind of business
where you get what you pay for?

Supposedly most of these are made at the same place.

There is a wide variation in service life. Price has little to do with
it. See my page:

http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm

I have done both torsion and extension spring replacements on garage doors.
The last time one broke I called around to get a price on the torsion
springs and if memory serves me they were $55 a piece. I have seen them on
the internet for maybe $45. I was busy and didn't really have time to do it
so I called the guys who do it for a living and the whole job was done for
$135 plus tax. Over priced springs, maybe. Under priced service, maybe but
the company has been in business for 35 yrs. They must do something right.
Yes, they make money on the springs. They buy them by the truck load for
cheap. Having the job done by someone else even if it cost you $50 more
would take a long time to save $1000's.
It really is not that difficult a job but a slight botch may result in
injury.

Hell, I'm not saying don't DIY. But what is your time worth?
CR

"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
. ..
CR writes:

Really, it's not worth your time. As already stated, you will not save
that much money.

It depends. Doing it on one door, one time is not worth learning unless
you just like to learn things. That's the learning curve, but that has
changed to favor DIY with the innovation of ready information on the
Internet.

If you have a lot of doors, or expect to have them over some multiple of
their spring lifetimes (about 7 years), then you'll save plenty. With a
three-door garage over a lifetime of home-ownership, I expect to save
$1000s.

I can now repair my garage door springs faster than I can shop for a
service call and nurse that task along. And I know it is done right.

And you may just save plenty learning simply knowing how its done. I've
gotten plenty of stories from those who have paid as much as $800 for a
job that should cost $100 or $150.

I had mine done by a reputable local company for $35 more than I
could buy the springs for.

Eh? Either the spring were overpriced, or the service was underpriced,
likely the former.

If you priced uninstalled springs from a door dealer, you got either "we
don't sell springs", or a ridiculously high price. They're not really
in that retail business, and they want you to believe that you can have
a service call and installation for only $35.

The door had never worked as well since I owned the house.

Well, then it didn't work right before the spring broke, and if you knew
how to evaluate and adjust them, you could have had it working well all
along. Another benefit learning this yourself.

You'll also have the skills to replace the entire door, if that should
ever become necessary. That's also going to save me a bundle on my
aging, 25-year-old doors.

CR writes:

The last time one broke I called around to get a price on the torsion
springs and if memory serves me they were $55 a piece.

It's just a coil of ASTM A229 steel wire. The market price per pound is
about that of steel rebar. What does 5 or 10 pounds of that cost at a
retailer? About 1/10 of what you're paying.

"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
. ..
CR writes:

The last time one broke I called around to get a price on the torsion
springs and if memory serves me they were $55 a piece.

It's just a coil of ASTM A229 steel wire. The market price per pound is
about that of steel rebar. What does 5 or 10 pounds of that cost at a
retailer? About 1/10 of what you're paying.

Doha! I should have thought of that. Just go out and buy10 lbs of A229 oil
tempered wire and bring it home. Then I just cinch a pipe down in my vise
and wind my own torsion springs around it and install them on my garage
door. Think of the savings.
Maybe I should just get rebar because it is a lot easier to bend and would
be less trouble. ......Wait a minute, what about a bungee cord, yea that's
the ticket.

CR

CR writes:

The last time one broke I called around to get a price on the torsion
springs and if memory serves me they were $55 a piece.

Just go out and buy10 lbs of A229 oil tempered wire and bring it home.

It may be news to you, but products fabricated "simply" (cut, bent,
twisted, etc) from standard steel shapes and alloys tend to cost a small
proportion over the steel itself, in a good market. If Home Depot sold
torsion springs like they sold rebar (they won't), they would sell for
about the same $/lb.

So the DIY problem reduces to finding ready retail sources that approach
this market efficiency. Otherwise you pay $55 to a snickering dealer who
bought it for $5.

Richard says: "It may be news to you, but products fabricated "simply" (cut,
bent,
twisted, etc) from standard steel shapes and alloys tend to cost a small
proportion over the steel itself, in a good market."

Richard, It may be news to you, but springs are not simply fabricated. They
cost is not in proportion to the materials price but the machinery to wind
the coils, the labor to run the machinery, the cost of heat treating the
finished coils, the overhead for the building to house the machinery and
store the product. Throw in shipping costs, then the markup to the
distributors and then the markup to me because I'm too stupid to buy a
length of bulk wire and do the above myself. It's not an easy thing to make
a small spring from say, .010 wire. Let alone trying to make a torsion
spring from .250 or bigger wire, can you say "don't try this at home". The
next time you run into those $5 springs, pickme up a couple and I'll give
you $10 plus shipping.

CR


"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
.. .
CR writes:

The last time one broke I called around to get a price on the
torsion
springs and if memory serves me they were $55 a piece.

Just go out and buy10 lbs of A229 oil tempered wire and bring it home.

It may be news to you, but products fabricated "simply" (cut, bent,
twisted, etc) from standard steel shapes and alloys tend to cost a small
proportion over the steel itself, in a good market. If Home Depot sold
torsion springs like they sold rebar (they won't), they would sell for
about the same $/lb.

So the DIY problem reduces to finding ready retail sources that approach
this market efficiency. Otherwise you pay $55 to a snickering dealer who
bought it for $5.

CR writes:

Richard, It may be news to you, but springs are not simply fabricated.
They cost is not in proportion to the materials price but the
machinery to wind the coils, the labor to run the machinery, the cost
of heat treating the finished coils, the overhead for the building to
house the machinery and store the product. Throw in shipping costs,
then the markup to the distributors and then the markup to me because
I'm too stupid to buy a length of bulk wire and do the above myself.
It's not an easy thing to make a small spring from say, .010 wire. Let
alone trying to make a torsion spring from .250 or bigger wire, can
you say "don't try this at home". The next time you run into those $5
springs, pickme up a couple and I'll give you $10 plus shipping.

Torsion springs are wholesaled by weight, and the price tracks the steel
market, just like structural steel. I agree, I'm not gonna smelt ore and
forge I-beams in my workshop, any more than torsion springs. But anybody
paying $55 for a few pounds of curled-up ASTM A229 wire is paying
convenience-store prices. I'll continue to get mine drop-shipped from the
mill.