For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

"Hybyd2" wrote in message
ink.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light bulbs).

Suggestions?

I have an electrical tester that I picked at the dollar store. If you hold
it next to a plugged in extension cord, it will light up when held next to
the hot / live wire, but won't light up when held next to the neutral /
ground (even if there is nothing plugged into the extension cord). If you
could find this tool, you could use it to trace the line, and find where it
breaks, then replace that bulb, and continue till you get a working set.

I think the tester is called DEET or something.

If you just have a multimeter: set it to continuity test or resistance test.
Remove a lightbulb and test the two contacts. If it beeps on continuity, or
registers a resistance (near zero), then you know that bulb is good. Plug
that bulb in and test the next one.

If all the bulbs work, then you might have screwed up sockets or wiring,
which is a little harder to test. You remove a bulb, test continuity from
both the prongs on the plug to the contacts in the socket, replace the bulb,
and continue to the next socket till you find a problem.

"Hybyd2" wrote in message
ink.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light
bulbs).

It's actually pretty rare to have a "one bulb blows, the whole strand goes out"
anymore. It _is_ still true in most sets though that if "one bulb is not fully
seated the whole strand goes out". That being the case you usually only have to
go through the set looking for the loose bulb(s) to get the strand to light up.
Once the strand lights, the bulbs that are actually burned out are easy to spot.

Except for the very deluxe sets I only give them about 20 minutes worth of
dicking with them. After that, they hit the trash and I buy another set. There
just not worth more effort than that.

Now-a-days, the strings are so cheap. However, I still fix them, to a
point. The big problem with using a multimeter is that the voltage
(ohmmeter) is too low. Years ago, I built a box which we refer to as
the Muppet Box, because it looks like something my kids saw on the
Muppet Show (more on the box later). The lamps each have a shunt inside
the bulb. The shunt doesn't make contact as there is some type of
coating and the voltage across one lamp, in a working string, is only
1.5 to 3 volts. However, when one filament opens the entire 110 volts
is now across the open circuit. The higher voltage breaks down the
shunt coating and starts to conduct. If there are many open filaments
in the string with all the shunts shorted, it will put too high voltage
on the working lamps. I have seen a run away condition where the lamps
start going one at a time and eventually they all die.

The problem usually comes from 2 or more open filaments in the string.
This probably happens from rough handling. There is not enough voltage
to "share" between several shunts, so the string will not light. In the
test box I have a 110 to 220 volt autotransformer. The output feed the
light string through a series diode. There is a switch to switch
between regular 110 volts and 220 volts through the diode. The string
is plugged in at 110 volts and I momentarily throw the switch to the 220
volt side (half wave rectified). The higher peaks will, in many cases,
break down the shunts and the string will light. I then switch back to
the 110 volt side and change out the bulbs that don't work. The higher
voltage will also arc through corrosion in the sockets in some cases.
BTW, I also have other things (series resistors, etc.) in the box to
allow manually probing the lights. There's also a GCFI to keep me alive
in case I get careless.

All this said, there is (was?) a company that builds a high voltage
pulser to break down the shunts. It was called Lightkeeper, however, I
suspect they are out of business as their web page doesn't work. I
suspect people just didn't bother with this product and just throw out
the string.

Hybyd2 wrote:

For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 17:14:28 GMT, "Hybyd2"
wrote:

For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out?

Trip to the dollar store?


I have a multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 17:36:31 GMT, "Bill 2" wrote:


"Hybyd2" wrote in message
link.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light bulbs).

Suggestions?

OK.

Make your own.

Hook up a single socket to a battery ......

In series, the voltage is divided amonst all the lights on the string
so just calculate what you need, ands screw each one in one at a time.

Alternatively, find one STRING that works, unscrew one light and then
test all your other lights on the working string.


Joel



I have an electrical tester that I picked at the dollar store. If you hold
it next to a plugged in extension cord, it will light up when held next to
the hot / live wire, but won't light up when held next to the neutral /
ground (even if there is nothing plugged into the extension cord). If you
could find this tool, you could use it to trace the line, and find where it
breaks, then replace that bulb, and continue till you get a working set.

I think the tester is called DEET or something.

If you just have a multimeter: set it to continuity test or resistance test.
Remove a lightbulb and test the two contacts. If it beeps on continuity, or
registers a resistance (near zero), then you know that bulb is good. Plug
that bulb in and test the next one.

If all the bulbs work, then you might have screwed up sockets or wiring,
which is a little harder to test. You remove a bulb, test continuity from
both the prongs on the plug to the contacts in the socket, replace the bulb,
and continue to the next socket till you find a problem.

On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 17:36:31 GMT, "Bill 2" wrote:


"Hybyd2" wrote in message
link.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light bulbs).

Suggestions?

I have an electrical tester that I picked at the dollar store. If you hold
it next to a plugged in extension cord, it will light up when held next to
the hot / live wire, but won't light up when held next to the neutral /
ground (even if there is nothing plugged into the extension cord). If you
could find this tool, you could use it to trace the line, and find where it
breaks, then replace that bulb, and continue till you get a working set.

I think the tester is called DEET or something.

If you just have a multimeter: set it to continuity test or resistance test.
Remove a lightbulb and test the two contacts. If it beeps on continuity, or
registers a resistance (near zero), then you know that bulb is good. Plug
that bulb in and test the next one.

If all the bulbs work, then you might have screwed up sockets or wiring,
which is a little harder to test.

True, of course if your wiring is screwed up your computer is not
working so you can't read this either!



You remove a bulb, test continuity from
both the prongs on the plug to the contacts in the socket, replace the bulb,
and continue to the next socket till you find a problem.

On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 11:39:58 -0600, "Rick Brandt"
wrote:

"Hybyd2" wrote in message
link.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light
bulbs).

It's actually pretty rare to have a "one bulb blows, the whole strand goes out"
anymore. It _is_ still true in most sets though that if "one bulb is not fully
seated the whole strand goes out". That being the case you usually only have to
go through the set looking for the loose bulb(s) to get the strand to light up.
Once the strand lights, the bulbs that are actually burned out are easy to spot.

Not in series ,,,,,,,,, its an older, cheezier way of manufacturing
Christmas lights .....



Except for the very deluxe sets I only give them about 20 minutes worth of
dicking with them. After that, they hit the trash and I buy another set. There
just not worth more effort than that.

In . net, Hybyd2 wrote:
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty
of spare light bulbs).

Suggestions?

1. Do you have any audio equipment with a phono jack or line level jack?
Plug a cable in, clip onto the tip of the cable one of those alligator
clip jumper wires, and run it along the plugged-in string and see if the
hum changes as you pass one bulb.

2. There are now many strings that have means to bypass blown bulbs.
However, I fear that when a bulb blows the voltage across the others will
increase. Each burnout would make the remaining bulbs age faster.

3. Get LED strings. Fair sources are Target and Boscovs, last year I saw
good choices in the Brookstone online catalog. I saw a "basic" model at
Walgreens, but this year none at CVS, Rite Aid nor Eckerd.

For reviews on some of these, check out:

http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/menutop.htm#21

- Don Klipstein )

If you can remove the bulbs, check them one at a time for continuity
using the multimeter. A bad bulb will be open - infinite resistance.
Replace the bad bulbs with good ones from the other strings and you
should be in business.

If the bulbs are not removable, locate the bad ones by pushing a pin
through the wire insulation before and after the suspect bulb. Now
you can measure the bulb's continuity using your meter. When you
remove the pins the insulation will close back up around the pinhole.

To replace a bad bulb, you'll have to cut out the old one, then splice
the new (good) one to the resulting wire leads.

Note that the light string is UNPLUGGED for all of these tests. Apply
power only after the repair is finished to see if you have more burned
out bulbs.

One more thing - since you have extra bulbs, if you splice in a few
extra bulbs into your series string, all of the bulbs will last
longer. They'll dim slightly, but every 5% that you decrease their
brightness will double their life.



On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 17:14:28 GMT, "Hybyd2"
wrote:

For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

"Joel M. Eichen" wrote in message
...
If all the bulbs work, then you might have screwed up sockets or wiring,
which is a little harder to test.

True, of course if your wiring is screwed up your computer is not
working so you can't read this either!

Wiring in the string of lights, not the household wiring.

On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 18:22:10 GMT, "Bill 2" wrote:


"Joel M. Eichen" wrote in message
.. .
If all the bulbs work, then you might have screwed up sockets or wiring,
which is a little harder to test.

True, of course if your wiring is screwed up your computer is not
working so you can't read this either!

Wiring in the string of lights, not the household wiring.


YUP guess so!

On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 10:21:50 -0800, Lou Schneider wrote:

If you can remove the bulbs, check them one at a time for continuity
using the multimeter. A bad bulb will be open - infinite resistance.
Replace the bad bulbs with good ones from the other strings and you
should be in business.

If the bulbs are not removable, locate the bad ones by pushing a pin
through the wire insulation before and after the suspect bulb.

Ye-O-W-W-W-w-w-w-w-w-w-w-w-w!

100 volts!


Now
you can measure the bulb's continuity using your meter. When you
remove the pins the insulation will close back up around the pinhole.

To replace a bad bulb, you'll have to cut out the old one, then splice
the new (good) one to the resulting wire leads.

Note that the light string is UNPLUGGED for all of these tests. Apply
power only after the repair is finished to see if you have more burned
out bulbs.

One more thing - since you have extra bulbs, if you splice in a few
extra bulbs into your series string, all of the bulbs will last
longer. They'll dim slightly, but every 5% that you decrease their
brightness will double their life.



On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 17:14:28 GMT, "Hybyd2"
wrote:

For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

"Hybyd2" wrote in message
ink.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty
of spare light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

Divide string in half by removing center bulb - check for continuity to one
end of the cord. Repeat as necessary by dividing and checking each bad half
of the remaining strings. 5 tests + confirmation of the bad bulb checks a
string of 100. Dave

On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 18:42:42 GMT, "JustDave"
wrote:


"Hybyd2" wrote in message
link.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty
of spare light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

Divide string in half by removing center bulb - check for continuity to one
end of the cord. Repeat as necessary by dividing and checking each bad half
of the remaining strings. 5 tests + confirmation of the bad bulb checks a
string of 100. Dave

Eight, nine hours you should have it all checked.

Don Klipstein ) writes:

3. Get LED strings. Fair sources are Target and Boscovs, last year I saw
good choices in the Brookstone online catalog. I saw a "basic" model at
Walgreens, but this year none at CVS, Rite Aid nor Eckerd.

Do they not make old style Christmas lights where there are sockets
to screw in bulbs? You can still get bulbs for them.

I wouldn't know, since we're still using Christmas lights from
at least forty years ago, though they did replace an older set
that had the bulbs in series.

It sounds like the issue isn't that the bulbs are in series, that's merely
a slow process to find the dead bulb, but that they are no longer socketed.

That would make them far more throwaway than the old style Christmas
lights. On the other hand, from the flyers I see one can get them pretty
cheap, so maybe nowadays people toss out the Christmas tree with the lights
still on it.

On 11/28/2004 1:51 PM US(ET), Michael Black took fingers to keys, and
typed the following:

Don Klipstein ) writes:


3. Get LED strings. Fair sources are Target and Boscovs, last year I saw
good choices in the Brookstone online catalog. I saw a "basic" model at
Walgreens, but this year none at CVS, Rite Aid nor Eckerd.



Do they not make old style Christmas lights where there are sockets
to screw in bulbs? You can still get bulbs for them.

I wouldn't know, since we're still using Christmas lights from
at least forty years ago, though they did replace an older set
that had the bulbs in series.

It sounds like the issue isn't that the bulbs are in series, that's merely
a slow process to find the dead bulb, but that they are no longer socketed.

That would make them far more throwaway than the old style Christmas
lights. On the other hand, from the flyers I see one can get them pretty
cheap, so maybe nowadays people toss out the Christmas tree with the lights
still on it.

Toss out the Christmas tree? I paid $60 for it a few years ago and it's
still going strong.
It's a pain to decorate and undecorate it every year, so I'm going to
build a cantilevered closet addition in the corner of the LR where it is
usually displayed, and when Christmas is done, just slide the decorated
tree into the closet, close the door, and it's all ready for next year.
I may put wheels on it, or some kind of extension track like on a slide
away keyboard tray to make it even easier. :-)

Subject: Fixing Christmas lights ...
Reply-To: (Michael Black)
References: . net
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet

Joel M. Eichen ) writes:
On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 18:42:42 GMT, "JustDave"
wrote:


"Hybyd2" wrote in message
hlink.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty
of spare light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

Divide string in half by removing center bulb - check for continuity to one
end of the cord. Repeat as necessary by dividing and checking each bad half
of the remaining strings. 5 tests + confirmation of the bad bulb checks a
string of 100. Dave

Eight, nine hours you should have it all checked.


No, he's described a minimal search technique, though at the moment I can't
recall what it's called.

He's dividing everyting in half, so each bulb does not have to be checked
individually..

The first check defines which half of the string the problem bulb is in.
The second defines which quarter of the string the problem bulb is in.
And so on.

If the string has 100 bulbs, the first check immediately rules out fifty
bulbs. The second check rules out 75 bulbs, the third check rules out
about 87, the fourth check rules out 94.

Michael

I've found that by watching the sales, I can usually get 100 count strands
of lights for around $2.50. I buy 2-4 boxes almost every year and don't
bother messing more than a few minutes if a strand won't light. It's just
not worth the hassle.

Melissa


"Hybyd2" wrote in message
ink.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

Rick Brandt wrote:

"Hybyd2" wrote in message
ink.net...

For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light
bulbs).


It's actually pretty rare to have a "one bulb blows, the whole strand goes out"
anymore. It _is_ still true in most sets though that if "one bulb is not fully
seated the whole strand goes out". That being the case you usually only have to
go through the set looking for the loose bulb(s) to get the strand to light up.
Once the strand lights, the bulbs that are actually burned out are easy to spot.

Except for the very deluxe sets I only give them about 20 minutes worth of
dicking with them. After that, they hit the trash and I buy another set. There
just not worth more effort than that.



We gave up trying to fix them, opting instead for LED Chrismas lights.
They are cheaper to run and no repairs. OTOH, the OP is low on funds so
my preferred method was changing one light bulb at a time. Most mini
light sets come with a couple replacement bulbs. With any luck, he can
troubleshoot enough to get the strand going.

Don Klipstein wrote:

In . net, Hybyd2 wrote:

For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty
of spare light bulbs).

Suggestions?


1. Do you have any audio equipment with a phono jack or line level jack?
Plug a cable in, clip onto the tip of the cable one of those alligator
clip jumper wires, and run it along the plugged-in string and see if the
hum changes as you pass one bulb.

2. There are now many strings that have means to bypass blown bulbs.
However, I fear that when a bulb blows the voltage across the others will
increase. Each burnout would make the remaining bulbs age faster.

3. Get LED strings. Fair sources are Target and Boscovs, last year I saw
good choices in the Brookstone online catalog. I saw a "basic" model at
Walgreens, but this year none at CVS, Rite Aid nor Eckerd.

I love the LED Christmas lights. They are a lot cheaper to operate too!
We replace a few strands last year and will replace more this year.
We will be using LED lights outside too. If we can get the look we want
using less electricity, why not! Two of our strands are programmable
for different flashes. We don't put lights on our tree as it is fiber
optic and uses one halogen bulb.

For reviews on some of these, check out:

http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/menutop.htm#21

- Don Klipstein )

In article , (Michael Black) writes:

| Do they not make old style Christmas lights where there are sockets
| to screw in bulbs?

Sure. Both classic sizes (C7 & C9) are readily available. They also
have miniature bulbs with covers to make them look like C7, so you have
to be a little careful.

| It sounds like the issue isn't that the bulbs are in series, that's merely
| a slow process to find the dead bulb, but that they are no longer socketed.

All the miniature lamps I've seen are still socketed; however, the sockets
and the connection wires to the bulbs are not exactly robust. Even if you
use a binary search as proposed by another poster to minimize the number of
bulbs that you have to remove and re-install, it isn't entirely unlikely that
you will break or at least deform the contacts on a good bulb in the process
of searching for a bad one. That gives you a moving (and growing) target...

| That would make them far more throwaway than the old style Christmas
| lights. On the other hand, from the flyers I see one can get them pretty
| cheap, so maybe nowadays people toss out the Christmas tree with the lights
| still on it.

They are pretty cheap to begin with, and it is fairly easy to hit the 75% off
sale point after Christmas so you can stock up for the next year. A couple of
years ago I found a 90% off sale, though there wasn't a huge variety left. At
those prices there just isn't a huge incentive to repair dead strings, though
I don't discard good ones.

Dan Lanciani
ddl@danlan.*com

willshak wrote:
On 11/28/2004 1:51 PM US(ET), Michael Black took fingers to keys, and
typed the following:

Don Klipstein ) writes:


3. Get LED strings. Fair sources are Target and Boscovs, last year
I saw good choices in the Brookstone online catalog. I saw a "basic"
model at Walgreens, but this year none at CVS, Rite Aid nor Eckerd.



Do they not make old style Christmas lights where there are sockets
to screw in bulbs? You can still get bulbs for them.

I wouldn't know, since we're still using Christmas lights from
at least forty years ago, though they did replace an older set
that had the bulbs in series.

It sounds like the issue isn't that the bulbs are in series, that's
merely
a slow process to find the dead bulb, but that they are no longer
socketed.

That would make them far more throwaway than the old style Christmas
lights. On the other hand, from the flyers I see one can get them pretty
cheap, so maybe nowadays people toss out the Christmas tree with the
lights
still on it.

Toss out the Christmas tree? I paid $60 for it a few years ago and it's
still going strong.
It's a pain to decorate and undecorate it every year, so I'm going to
build a cantilevered closet addition in the corner of the LR where it is
usually displayed, and when Christmas is done, just slide the decorated
tree into the closet, close the door, and it's all ready for next year.
I may put wheels on it, or some kind of extension track like on a slide
away keyboard tray to make it even easier. :-)

Why not just leave it up year round? A woman at work kept a tree up all
year, but changed the decorations to match the holidays/seasons. But
that would defeat the purpose of your idea, no matter how cute it was.

LOL

-Jane

Melissa wrote:

I've found that by watching the sales, I can usually get 100 count strands
of lights for around $2.50. I buy 2-4 boxes almost every year and don't
bother messing more than a few minutes if a strand won't light. It's just
not worth the hassle.

Melissa


"Hybyd2" wrote in message
ink.net...

For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a

multimeter

and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

I buy mine after Christmas when they go on sale for 75% off. I've never
paid more than $0.75 for a box of lights.

--Jane

From: "JustDave"


"Hybyd2" wrote in message
link.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty
of spare light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

Divide string in half by removing center bulb - check for continuity to one
end of the cord. Repeat as necessary by dividing and checking each bad half
of the remaining strings. 5 tests + confirmation of the bad bulb checks a
string of 100. Dave


There's no such thing as a string of 100. (bulbs in series, that is) Those
strings would be 2-strings of 50, or 5 strings of 20. But your method is sound.
Here's another for strings of 50 or 100 with 2.4 volt bulbs:

Cut off a 1- piece length of 10 sockets/ lamps from a set you're disposing of
anyway. Also remove 2 additional lamps and bases from that set, and take those
2 lamps out of their bases.

Strip the wire at each end of the 10 string and divide in two so it forks
slightly, and thread both ends of the 10-socket length through a lamp base,
same way you'd change a bad bulb.

From a working string, remove the 1st, 2nd, 9th and 10th lamp and replace the
1st and 10th lamp with your test string. If it lights along with the rest of
the 50 lamps, the test string is good.

On a non working string of 50, or the half non working string of 100, remove
the 1st, and 10th lamp. Plug one side of the test string into the 1st and the
other into the 10th. If the set doesn't light, remove the test from the 1st,
replace the lamp and swing it over to the 20th. Continue until you've got the
set lit and isolated the section with only 9 suspect lamps, then, switch the
test lamps with the suspect lamps until you've found the little *******.

Noma and GE are both marketing "Sta-Lit" sets. Even if you yank a bulb, the set
remains lit. (Shunts located in lamps AND the sockets)

LED light sets do not contain either blue or white (clear) lamps.

"Michael Black" wrote in message
...

Subject: Fixing Christmas lights ...
Reply-To: (Michael Black)
References: . net


Organization: The National Capital FreeNet

Joel M. Eichen ) writes:
On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 18:42:42 GMT, "JustDave"
wrote:


"Hybyd2" wrote in message
thlink.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in
series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are
plenty
of spare light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

Divide string in half by removing center bulb - check for continuity to
one
end of the cord. Repeat as necessary by dividing and checking each bad
half
of the remaining strings. 5 tests + confirmation of the bad bulb checks a
string of 100. Dave

Eight, nine hours you should have it all checked.


No, he's described a minimal search technique, though at the moment I
can't
recall what it's called.

if it were a computer program, you would call it a binary search i believe.

randy

1) inspect the string for broken or cracked bulbs. Usually caused by
careless handling when putting them away. Replace as needed
2) check the fuses (located in the plug end) with a multi meter. Replace as
needed.
3) Locate the first unlit bulb in the bad section and replace it with a
known good bulb
4) if still unlit. take the bulb you just pulled out (bulb1) and put it in
the second unlit bulb slot.
5) if still unlit, take the bulb you just pulled out (bulb2) and put it in
the third unlit bulb slot.
6) repeat. working your way down the line. When the string lights, throw the
bulb in your hand away.

This will only work if there is only one failed bulb. All bets are off if
there are two or more failures
My experience is that most bad lights are caused from rough handling
(dropping on to the floor) and are usually restricted to broken bulbs. A
truely bad bulb will usually be restricted to one per chain. THere are
actually two filaments in each bulb. The light producing filament and a
shunt filament. If the light producing filament burns out, the shunt
filament will allow enough current to flow to light the other lights to
light but at reduced voltage. it is only when both filaments burnout that
the string dies.

IF still a no go, go to local home center and buy a bad bulb detector for
$3. get the type where you insert the bulb into a hole. It seems to work
better than the type where you just touch the bulb. I suggest this as a last
resort because they don't work too well but they have their place.
http://www.howstuffworks.com/question270.htm

Just remember, the lights were working when you took them down (in April?).
THey don't go bad sitting in storage. THey failed because of rough handling
in the taking down phase. Treat them gently and you will have fewer problems
next Christmas.

"Hybyd2" wrote in message
ink.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty
of spare light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

Toss out the Christmas tree? I paid $60 for it a few years ago and it's
still going strong.
It's a pain to decorate and undecorate it every year, so I'm going to
build a cantilevered closet addition in the corner of the LR where it is
usually displayed, and when Christmas is done, just slide the decorated
tree into the closet, close the door, and it's all ready for next year. I
may put wheels on it, or some kind of extension track like on a slide away
keyboard tray to make it even easier. :-)

I bought a "waterless" tree about eight years ago. For the money, it's
probably one of the best Christmas decorations on the market now.


Bill

"Joel M. Eichen" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 11:39:58 -0600, "Rick Brandt"
wrote:

"Hybyd2" wrote in message
hlink.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in
series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light
bulbs).

It's actually pretty rare to have a "one bulb blows, the whole strand goes
out"
anymore. It _is_ still true in most sets though that if "one bulb is not
fully
seated the whole strand goes out". That being the case you usually only
have to
go through the set looking for the loose bulb(s) to get the strand to
light up.
Once the strand lights, the bulbs that are actually burned out are easy to
spot.

Not in series ,,,,,,,,, its an older, cheezier way of manufacturing
Christmas lights .....


Most if not all of the lights today have bulbs with shunts so when they
burn out the rest of the string does not go out.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math





Except for the very deluxe sets I only give them about 20 minutes worth of
dicking with them. After that, they hit the trash and I buy another set.
There
just not worth more effort than that.

The lights are in a series. Sometimes two series to a string.

Lamps today have a shunt in them so they may go out and the rest of the
lamps stay on. That works only if the light burns out, as often as not they
don't burn out but they come loose and that will kill the rest of the
series.

Note, often they include one clear lamp, usually near the plug. It acts
as a fuse and it will cause the rest of them to go out if it burns out.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math


"Hybyd2" wrote in message
ink.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a
multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty
of spare light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

Watch National Lampoon's Christmas. Learn from Chevy Chase. Staple gun is
your friend.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Hybyd2" wrote in message
ink.net...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 23:44:02 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

The lights are in a series. Sometimes two series to a string.

Lamps today have a shunt in them so they may go out and the rest of the
lamps stay on. That works only if the light burns out, as often as not they
don't burn out but they come loose and that will kill the rest of the
series.

WoW! Shunt. Do you know how they do that?

Must be a fuse of sorts or what?

Joel



Note, often they include one clear lamp, usually near the plug. It acts
as a fuse and it will cause the rest of them to go out if it burns out.

"Joel M. Eichen" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 23:44:02 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

The lights are in a series. Sometimes two series to a string.

Lamps today have a shunt in them so they may go out and the rest of the
lamps stay on. That works only if the light burns out, as often as not they
don't burn out but they come loose and that will kill the rest of the
series.

WoW! Shunt. Do you know how they do that?

Must be a fuse of sorts or what?

What. Its just a resistor of about the same resistance as the
filament, which doesnt light up with the normal current thru it.

Note, often they include one clear lamp, usually near the plug. It acts
as a fuse and it will cause the rest of them to go out if it burns out.

On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 13:40:28 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:


"Joel M. Eichen" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 23:44:02 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

The lights are in a series. Sometimes two series to a string.

Lamps today have a shunt in them so they may go out and the rest of the
lamps stay on. That works only if the light burns out, as often as not they
don't burn out but they come loose and that will kill the rest of the
series.

WoW! Shunt. Do you know how they do that?

Must be a fuse of sorts or what?

What. Its just a resistor of about the same resistance as the
filament, which doesnt light up with the normal current thru it.

OK resistor and bulb in parallel and each unit in series with every
other unit.

I think the Christmas bulb sets in parallel are cheaper.

I think the Dollar Store has them.

Joel



Note, often they include one clear lamp, usually near the plug. It acts
as a fuse and it will cause the rest of them to go out if it burns out.

wrote


I got so tired of messing with those series wired lights that I bought
all the old style lights with the 5 watt bulbs (or are they 7w, I
forget). They are the same bulbs used in night lights except colored.

I don't want no COLORED bulbs around here!

All this said, there is (was?) a company that builds a high voltage
pulser to break down the shunts. It was called Lightkeeper, however, I
suspect they are out of business as their web page doesn't work. I
suspect people just didn't bother with this product and just throw out
the string.

I think I saw one of these at Home Depot or Lowes a week or so back. Here's
the website:
http://www.lightkeeper.biz/

Brad

Art Todesco wrote in message news:Dooqd.157815$HA.23705@attbi_s01...

All this said, there is (was?) a company that builds a high voltage
pulser to break down the shunts. It was called Lightkeeper, however, I
suspect they are out of business as their web page doesn't work.

I found www.lightkeeper.biz. Neat device. eBay also has 'em, but they
look like "older" versions.

This discussion has me thinking. Perhaps one could wire a BBQ ignitor,
also a piezo device, to the string of lights and that too would send a
pulse out to the lights. However, what I don't understand and perhaps
somebody can explain, is why (following the Lightkeeper's
instructions) they make you remove one bulb from each set of lights
prior to plugging the light string into the device. I mean that way
there's no continuity to the shunt. Maybe I'm missing something.

On 29 Nov 2004 03:54:19 -0800, (Paul Giroux)
wrote:

Art Todesco wrote in message news:Dooqd.157815$HA.23705@attbi_s01...

All this said, there is (was?) a company that builds a high voltage
pulser to break down the shunts. It was called Lightkeeper, however, I
suspect they are out of business as their web page doesn't work.

I found www.lightkeeper.biz. Neat device. eBay also has 'em, but they
look like "older" versions.

This discussion has me thinking. Perhaps one could wire a BBQ ignitor,
also a piezo device, to the string of lights and that too would send a
pulse out to the lights.

This is true. You could cook your turkey and get the Christmas tree
all decorated all in one shot.


UNLESS you deep-fry the turkey instead of BBQ it .....


Or like that TURDunkin' stuff.



However, what I don't understand and perhaps
somebody can explain, is why (following the Lightkeeper's
instructions) they make you remove one bulb from each set of lights
prior to plugging the light string into the device. I mean that way
there's no continuity to the shunt. Maybe I'm missing something.

I can't see fixing Christmas lights. I am currently unemployed and
not rich, but I bought a 100-light string of color GE lights yesterday
for $1.37 plus tax.

On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 17:14:28 GMT, "Hybyd2"
wrote:

For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series -
presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter
and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare
light bulbs).

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Henry

On 11/29/2004 6:54 AM US(ET), Paul Giroux took fingers to keys, and
typed the following:

Art Todesco wrote in message news:Dooqd.157815$HA.23705@attbi_s01...



All this said, there is (was?) a company that builds a high voltage
pulser to break down the shunts. It was called Lightkeeper, however, I
suspect they are out of business as their web page doesn't work.



I found www.lightkeeper.biz. Neat device. eBay also has 'em, but they
look like "older" versions.

This discussion has me thinking. Perhaps one could wire a BBQ ignitor,
also a piezo device, to the string of lights and that too would send a
pulse out to the lights. However, what I don't understand and perhaps
somebody can explain, is why (following the Lightkeeper's
instructions) they make you remove one bulb from each set of lights
prior to plugging the light string into the device. I mean that way
there's no continuity to the shunt. Maybe I'm missing something.


You have to have a vacant socket in order to plug the socket into the
device. They don't want you to test the string from a good bulb socket,
so if you remove a bad bulb before unplugging the whole string from the
outlet, you won't have to try to remember which bulb was bad (it's the
vacant socket).
I don't have one of these devices, but I'm going to look for one.