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#1
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Fixing Christmas lights ...
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those
strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? Thanks, Henry |
#2
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"Hybyd2" wrote in message ink.net... For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? I have an electrical tester that I picked at the dollar store. If you hold it next to a plugged in extension cord, it will light up when held next to the hot / live wire, but won't light up when held next to the neutral / ground (even if there is nothing plugged into the extension cord). If you could find this tool, you could use it to trace the line, and find where it breaks, then replace that bulb, and continue till you get a working set. I think the tester is called DEET or something. If you just have a multimeter: set it to continuity test or resistance test. Remove a lightbulb and test the two contacts. If it beeps on continuity, or registers a resistance (near zero), then you know that bulb is good. Plug that bulb in and test the next one. If all the bulbs work, then you might have screwed up sockets or wiring, which is a little harder to test. You remove a bulb, test continuity from both the prongs on the plug to the contacts in the socket, replace the bulb, and continue to the next socket till you find a problem. |
#3
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On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 17:36:31 GMT, "Bill 2" wrote:
"Hybyd2" wrote in message link.net... For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? OK. Make your own. Hook up a single socket to a battery ...... In series, the voltage is divided amonst all the lights on the string so just calculate what you need, ands screw each one in one at a time. Alternatively, find one STRING that works, unscrew one light and then test all your other lights on the working string. Joel I have an electrical tester that I picked at the dollar store. If you hold it next to a plugged in extension cord, it will light up when held next to the hot / live wire, but won't light up when held next to the neutral / ground (even if there is nothing plugged into the extension cord). If you could find this tool, you could use it to trace the line, and find where it breaks, then replace that bulb, and continue till you get a working set. I think the tester is called DEET or something. If you just have a multimeter: set it to continuity test or resistance test. Remove a lightbulb and test the two contacts. If it beeps on continuity, or registers a resistance (near zero), then you know that bulb is good. Plug that bulb in and test the next one. If all the bulbs work, then you might have screwed up sockets or wiring, which is a little harder to test. You remove a bulb, test continuity from both the prongs on the plug to the contacts in the socket, replace the bulb, and continue to the next socket till you find a problem. |
#4
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On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 17:36:31 GMT, "Bill 2" wrote:
"Hybyd2" wrote in message link.net... For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? I have an electrical tester that I picked at the dollar store. If you hold it next to a plugged in extension cord, it will light up when held next to the hot / live wire, but won't light up when held next to the neutral / ground (even if there is nothing plugged into the extension cord). If you could find this tool, you could use it to trace the line, and find where it breaks, then replace that bulb, and continue till you get a working set. I think the tester is called DEET or something. If you just have a multimeter: set it to continuity test or resistance test. Remove a lightbulb and test the two contacts. If it beeps on continuity, or registers a resistance (near zero), then you know that bulb is good. Plug that bulb in and test the next one. If all the bulbs work, then you might have screwed up sockets or wiring, which is a little harder to test. True, of course if your wiring is screwed up your computer is not working so you can't read this either! You remove a bulb, test continuity from both the prongs on the plug to the contacts in the socket, replace the bulb, and continue to the next socket till you find a problem. |
#5
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"Joel M. Eichen" wrote in message ... If all the bulbs work, then you might have screwed up sockets or wiring, which is a little harder to test. True, of course if your wiring is screwed up your computer is not working so you can't read this either! Wiring in the string of lights, not the household wiring. |
#6
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On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 18:22:10 GMT, "Bill 2" wrote:
"Joel M. Eichen" wrote in message .. . If all the bulbs work, then you might have screwed up sockets or wiring, which is a little harder to test. True, of course if your wiring is screwed up your computer is not working so you can't read this either! Wiring in the string of lights, not the household wiring. YUP guess so! |
#7
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"Hybyd2" wrote in message
ink.net... For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). It's actually pretty rare to have a "one bulb blows, the whole strand goes out" anymore. It _is_ still true in most sets though that if "one bulb is not fully seated the whole strand goes out". That being the case you usually only have to go through the set looking for the loose bulb(s) to get the strand to light up. Once the strand lights, the bulbs that are actually burned out are easy to spot. Except for the very deluxe sets I only give them about 20 minutes worth of dicking with them. After that, they hit the trash and I buy another set. There just not worth more effort than that. |
#8
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On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 11:39:58 -0600, "Rick Brandt"
wrote: "Hybyd2" wrote in message link.net... For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). It's actually pretty rare to have a "one bulb blows, the whole strand goes out" anymore. It _is_ still true in most sets though that if "one bulb is not fully seated the whole strand goes out". That being the case you usually only have to go through the set looking for the loose bulb(s) to get the strand to light up. Once the strand lights, the bulbs that are actually burned out are easy to spot. Not in series ,,,,,,,,, its an older, cheezier way of manufacturing Christmas lights ..... Except for the very deluxe sets I only give them about 20 minutes worth of dicking with them. After that, they hit the trash and I buy another set. There just not worth more effort than that. |
#9
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"Joel M. Eichen" wrote in message
... On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 11:39:58 -0600, "Rick Brandt" wrote: "Hybyd2" wrote in message hlink.net... For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). It's actually pretty rare to have a "one bulb blows, the whole strand goes out" anymore. It _is_ still true in most sets though that if "one bulb is not fully seated the whole strand goes out". That being the case you usually only have to go through the set looking for the loose bulb(s) to get the strand to light up. Once the strand lights, the bulbs that are actually burned out are easy to spot. Not in series ,,,,,,,,, its an older, cheezier way of manufacturing Christmas lights ..... Most if not all of the lights today have bulbs with shunts so when they burn out the rest of the string does not go out. -- Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math Except for the very deluxe sets I only give them about 20 minutes worth of dicking with them. After that, they hit the trash and I buy another set. There just not worth more effort than that. |
#10
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It's actually pretty rare to have a "one bulb blows, the whole strand goes out" anymore. It _is_ still true in most sets though that if "one bulb is not fully seated the whole strand goes out". That being the case you usually only have to go through the set looking for the loose bulb(s) to get the strand to light up. Once the strand lights, the bulbs that are actually burned out are easy to spot. Cheap grain-of-wheat xmas lamps are designed for no-more-than 3-volts.. and will (dimly) light with a regular C-cell battery. 50-bulb strings are thus in series. 100-bulb-strands are usually 2 separate 50-bulb series twisted together so that the bulbs alternate. If I were testing the bulbs, I'd use a battery and a chunk of wire. I've seen fault-tolerant light strings, but I don't have any idea how they work. If OP had one, he wouldn't be asking how to test the lights in a string, though. --Goedjn |
#11
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Rick Brandt wrote:
"Hybyd2" wrote in message ink.net... For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). It's actually pretty rare to have a "one bulb blows, the whole strand goes out" anymore. It _is_ still true in most sets though that if "one bulb is not fully seated the whole strand goes out". That being the case you usually only have to go through the set looking for the loose bulb(s) to get the strand to light up. Once the strand lights, the bulbs that are actually burned out are easy to spot. Except for the very deluxe sets I only give them about 20 minutes worth of dicking with them. After that, they hit the trash and I buy another set. There just not worth more effort than that. We gave up trying to fix them, opting instead for LED Chrismas lights. They are cheaper to run and no repairs. OTOH, the OP is low on funds so my preferred method was changing one light bulb at a time. Most mini light sets come with a couple replacement bulbs. With any luck, he can troubleshoot enough to get the strand going. |
#12
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Now-a-days, the strings are so cheap. However, I still fix them, to a
point. The big problem with using a multimeter is that the voltage (ohmmeter) is too low. Years ago, I built a box which we refer to as the Muppet Box, because it looks like something my kids saw on the Muppet Show (more on the box later). The lamps each have a shunt inside the bulb. The shunt doesn't make contact as there is some type of coating and the voltage across one lamp, in a working string, is only 1.5 to 3 volts. However, when one filament opens the entire 110 volts is now across the open circuit. The higher voltage breaks down the shunt coating and starts to conduct. If there are many open filaments in the string with all the shunts shorted, it will put too high voltage on the working lamps. I have seen a run away condition where the lamps start going one at a time and eventually they all die. The problem usually comes from 2 or more open filaments in the string. This probably happens from rough handling. There is not enough voltage to "share" between several shunts, so the string will not light. In the test box I have a 110 to 220 volt autotransformer. The output feed the light string through a series diode. There is a switch to switch between regular 110 volts and 220 volts through the diode. The string is plugged in at 110 volts and I momentarily throw the switch to the 220 volt side (half wave rectified). The higher peaks will, in many cases, break down the shunts and the string will light. I then switch back to the 110 volt side and change out the bulbs that don't work. The higher voltage will also arc through corrosion in the sockets in some cases. BTW, I also have other things (series resistors, etc.) in the box to allow manually probing the lights. There's also a GCFI to keep me alive in case I get careless. All this said, there is (was?) a company that builds a high voltage pulser to break down the shunts. It was called Lightkeeper, however, I suspect they are out of business as their web page doesn't work. I suspect people just didn't bother with this product and just throw out the string. Hybyd2 wrote: For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? Thanks, Henry |
#13
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Art Todesco wrote in message news:Dooqd.157815$HA.23705@attbi_s01...
All this said, there is (was?) a company that builds a high voltage pulser to break down the shunts. It was called Lightkeeper, however, I suspect they are out of business as their web page doesn't work. I found www.lightkeeper.biz. Neat device. eBay also has 'em, but they look like "older" versions. This discussion has me thinking. Perhaps one could wire a BBQ ignitor, also a piezo device, to the string of lights and that too would send a pulse out to the lights. However, what I don't understand and perhaps somebody can explain, is why (following the Lightkeeper's instructions) they make you remove one bulb from each set of lights prior to plugging the light string into the device. I mean that way there's no continuity to the shunt. Maybe I'm missing something. |
#15
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On 11/29/2004 6:54 AM US(ET), Paul Giroux took fingers to keys, and
typed the following: Art Todesco wrote in message news:Dooqd.157815$HA.23705@attbi_s01... All this said, there is (was?) a company that builds a high voltage pulser to break down the shunts. It was called Lightkeeper, however, I suspect they are out of business as their web page doesn't work. I found www.lightkeeper.biz. Neat device. eBay also has 'em, but they look like "older" versions. This discussion has me thinking. Perhaps one could wire a BBQ ignitor, also a piezo device, to the string of lights and that too would send a pulse out to the lights. However, what I don't understand and perhaps somebody can explain, is why (following the Lightkeeper's instructions) they make you remove one bulb from each set of lights prior to plugging the light string into the device. I mean that way there's no continuity to the shunt. Maybe I'm missing something. You have to have a vacant socket in order to plug the socket into the device. They don't want you to test the string from a good bulb socket, so if you remove a bad bulb before unplugging the whole string from the outlet, you won't have to try to remember which bulb was bad (it's the vacant socket). I don't have one of these devices, but I'm going to look for one. |
#16
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On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 09:14:09 -0500, willshak
wrote: You have to have a vacant socket in order to plug the socket into the device. Yes, but I'm talking about the test procedure if the socket is too big to fit into the device; they make you remove one good bulb from each string until the entire run no longer lights up, then you insert the plug (the 2-prong 110v thing) into the Lightkeeper. That piece is what is confusing me: there's no continuity anywhere, how does the circuit completes so that the shunts "activate"? |
#17
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On 11/29/2004 9:28 AM US(ET), Paul Giroux took fingers to keys, and
typed the following: On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 09:14:09 -0500, willshak wrote: You have to have a vacant socket in order to plug the socket into the device. Yes, but I'm talking about the test procedure if the socket is too big to fit into the device; they make you remove one good bulb from each string until the entire run no longer lights up, then you insert the plug (the 2-prong 110v thing) into the Lightkeeper. That piece is what is confusing me: there's no continuity anywhere, how does the circuit completes so that the shunts "activate"? It is saying to plug the empty bulb socket into the device, not the 110 plug. quote "Plug the light string *bulb socket* fully into the LightKeeper Pro Socket Connector. The metal contacts of the bulb socket should line up with the metal contact of the LightKeeper Pro Socket Connector. When properly inserted, the flat indentations of the Socket Connector will match the parallel the indentation of the bulb socket". /quote |
#18
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As I recall when I saw one in a nearby Ace Hardware store, there is a
female outlet on the unit to use for the high voltage pulse. There is also a continuity tester in the unit .... this is probably where you need to remove bulbs to test. The high voltage pulse must have the whole string present in order for it to work. This probably works better than my 1/2 wave rectified 220 volts (from an autotransformer) because the pulse voltage is higher than the peak of 220, which is only about 310 volts or so. The piezo unit can literally put out 1000s of volts, although I don't know what this unit does. Paul Giroux wrote: On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 09:14:09 -0500, willshak wrote: You have to have a vacant socket in order to plug the socket into the device. Yes, but I'm talking about the test procedure if the socket is too big to fit into the device; they make you remove one good bulb from each string until the entire run no longer lights up, then you insert the plug (the 2-prong 110v thing) into the Lightkeeper. That piece is what is confusing me: there's no continuity anywhere, how does the circuit completes so that the shunts "activate"? |
#19
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On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 09:14:09 -0500, willshak
wrote: On 11/29/2004 6:54 AM US(ET), Paul Giroux took fingers to keys, and typed the following: Art Todesco wrote in message news:Dooqd.157815$HA.23705@attbi_s01... All this said, there is (was?) a company that builds a high voltage pulser to break down the shunts. It was called Lightkeeper, however, I suspect they are out of business as their web page doesn't work. Cool. A $79.95 gadget to repair a two buck string of lights! Americna ingenuity! Joel I found www.lightkeeper.biz. Neat device. eBay also has 'em, but they look like "older" versions. This discussion has me thinking. Perhaps one could wire a BBQ ignitor, also a piezo device, to the string of lights and that too would send a pulse out to the lights. However, what I don't understand and perhaps somebody can explain, is why (following the Lightkeeper's instructions) they make you remove one bulb from each set of lights prior to plugging the light string into the device. I mean that way there's no continuity to the shunt. Maybe I'm missing something. You have to have a vacant socket in order to plug the socket into the device. They don't want you to test the string from a good bulb socket, so if you remove a bad bulb before unplugging the whole string from the outlet, you won't have to try to remember which bulb was bad (it's the vacant socket). I don't have one of these devices, but I'm going to look for one. |
#20
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On 11/29/2004 9:49 AM US(ET), Joel M. Eichen took fingers to keys, and
typed the following: On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 09:14:09 -0500, willshak wrote: On 11/29/2004 6:54 AM US(ET), Paul Giroux took fingers to keys, and typed the following: Art Todesco wrote in message news:Dooqd.157815$HA.23705@attbi_s01... All this said, there is (was?) a company that builds a high voltage pulser to break down the shunts. It was called Lightkeeper, however, I suspect they are out of business as their web page doesn't work. Cool. A $79.95 gadget to repair a two buck string of lights! Americna ingenuity! Joel The Mfg. blurb says $19.95. http://www.hotproductnews.com/detail...ories=Products One other site was selling it at $24.97. http://www.polsteins.com/ultr0liprore.html I found www.lightkeeper.biz. Neat device. eBay also has 'em, but they look like "older" versions. This discussion has me thinking. Perhaps one could wire a BBQ ignitor, also a piezo device, to the string of lights and that too would send a pulse out to the lights. However, what I don't understand and perhaps somebody can explain, is why (following the Lightkeeper's instructions) they make you remove one bulb from each set of lights prior to plugging the light string into the device. I mean that way there's no continuity to the shunt. Maybe I'm missing something. You have to have a vacant socket in order to plug the socket into the device. They don't want you to test the string from a good bulb socket, so if you remove a bad bulb before unplugging the whole string from the outlet, you won't have to try to remember which bulb was bad (it's the vacant socket). I don't have one of these devices, but I'm going to look for one. |
#21
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Actually, they are no where near $79.95. I think I remember they are
about $15. Still, it IS cheaper to buy new lights, however, fixing does keep the landfills less busy. Joel M. Eichen wrote: On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 09:14:09 -0500, willshak wrote: On 11/29/2004 6:54 AM US(ET), Paul Giroux took fingers to keys, and typed the following: Art Todesco wrote in message news:Dooqd.157815$HA.23705@attbi_s01... All this said, there is (was?) a company that builds a high voltage pulser to break down the shunts. It was called Lightkeeper, however, I suspect they are out of business as their web page doesn't work. Cool. A $79.95 gadget to repair a two buck string of lights! Americna ingenuity! Joel |
#22
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All this said, there is (was?) a company that builds a high voltage
pulser to break down the shunts. It was called Lightkeeper, however, I suspect they are out of business as their web page doesn't work. I suspect people just didn't bother with this product and just throw out the string. I think I saw one of these at Home Depot or Lowes a week or so back. Here's the website: http://www.lightkeeper.biz/ Brad |
#23
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On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 17:14:28 GMT, "Hybyd2"
wrote: For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? Trip to the dollar store? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? Thanks, Henry |
#24
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In . net, Hybyd2 wrote:
For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? 1. Do you have any audio equipment with a phono jack or line level jack? Plug a cable in, clip onto the tip of the cable one of those alligator clip jumper wires, and run it along the plugged-in string and see if the hum changes as you pass one bulb. 2. There are now many strings that have means to bypass blown bulbs. However, I fear that when a bulb blows the voltage across the others will increase. Each burnout would make the remaining bulbs age faster. 3. Get LED strings. Fair sources are Target and Boscovs, last year I saw good choices in the Brookstone online catalog. I saw a "basic" model at Walgreens, but this year none at CVS, Rite Aid nor Eckerd. For reviews on some of these, check out: http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/menutop.htm#21 - Don Klipstein ) |
#25
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Don Klipstein ) writes: 3. Get LED strings. Fair sources are Target and Boscovs, last year I saw good choices in the Brookstone online catalog. I saw a "basic" model at Walgreens, but this year none at CVS, Rite Aid nor Eckerd. Do they not make old style Christmas lights where there are sockets to screw in bulbs? You can still get bulbs for them. I wouldn't know, since we're still using Christmas lights from at least forty years ago, though they did replace an older set that had the bulbs in series. It sounds like the issue isn't that the bulbs are in series, that's merely a slow process to find the dead bulb, but that they are no longer socketed. That would make them far more throwaway than the old style Christmas lights. On the other hand, from the flyers I see one can get them pretty cheap, so maybe nowadays people toss out the Christmas tree with the lights still on it. |
#26
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On 11/28/2004 1:51 PM US(ET), Michael Black took fingers to keys, and
typed the following: Don Klipstein ) writes: 3. Get LED strings. Fair sources are Target and Boscovs, last year I saw good choices in the Brookstone online catalog. I saw a "basic" model at Walgreens, but this year none at CVS, Rite Aid nor Eckerd. Do they not make old style Christmas lights where there are sockets to screw in bulbs? You can still get bulbs for them. I wouldn't know, since we're still using Christmas lights from at least forty years ago, though they did replace an older set that had the bulbs in series. It sounds like the issue isn't that the bulbs are in series, that's merely a slow process to find the dead bulb, but that they are no longer socketed. That would make them far more throwaway than the old style Christmas lights. On the other hand, from the flyers I see one can get them pretty cheap, so maybe nowadays people toss out the Christmas tree with the lights still on it. Toss out the Christmas tree? I paid $60 for it a few years ago and it's still going strong. It's a pain to decorate and undecorate it every year, so I'm going to build a cantilevered closet addition in the corner of the LR where it is usually displayed, and when Christmas is done, just slide the decorated tree into the closet, close the door, and it's all ready for next year. I may put wheels on it, or some kind of extension track like on a slide away keyboard tray to make it even easier. :-) |
#27
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willshak wrote:
On 11/28/2004 1:51 PM US(ET), Michael Black took fingers to keys, and typed the following: Don Klipstein ) writes: 3. Get LED strings. Fair sources are Target and Boscovs, last year I saw good choices in the Brookstone online catalog. I saw a "basic" model at Walgreens, but this year none at CVS, Rite Aid nor Eckerd. Do they not make old style Christmas lights where there are sockets to screw in bulbs? You can still get bulbs for them. I wouldn't know, since we're still using Christmas lights from at least forty years ago, though they did replace an older set that had the bulbs in series. It sounds like the issue isn't that the bulbs are in series, that's merely a slow process to find the dead bulb, but that they are no longer socketed. That would make them far more throwaway than the old style Christmas lights. On the other hand, from the flyers I see one can get them pretty cheap, so maybe nowadays people toss out the Christmas tree with the lights still on it. Toss out the Christmas tree? I paid $60 for it a few years ago and it's still going strong. It's a pain to decorate and undecorate it every year, so I'm going to build a cantilevered closet addition in the corner of the LR where it is usually displayed, and when Christmas is done, just slide the decorated tree into the closet, close the door, and it's all ready for next year. I may put wheels on it, or some kind of extension track like on a slide away keyboard tray to make it even easier. :-) Why not just leave it up year round? A woman at work kept a tree up all year, but changed the decorations to match the holidays/seasons. But that would defeat the purpose of your idea, no matter how cute it was. LOL -Jane |
#28
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Toss out the Christmas tree? I paid $60 for it a few years ago and it's still going strong. It's a pain to decorate and undecorate it every year, so I'm going to build a cantilevered closet addition in the corner of the LR where it is usually displayed, and when Christmas is done, just slide the decorated tree into the closet, close the door, and it's all ready for next year. I may put wheels on it, or some kind of extension track like on a slide away keyboard tray to make it even easier. :-) I bought a "waterless" tree about eight years ago. For the money, it's probably one of the best Christmas decorations on the market now. Bill |
#29
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Toss out the Christmas tree? I paid $60 for it a few years ago and it's
still going strong. It's a pain to decorate and undecorate it every year, so I'm going to build a cantilevered closet addition in the corner of the LR where it is usually displayed, and when Christmas is done, just slide the decorated tree into the closet, close the door, and it's all ready for next year. I may put wheels on it, or some kind of extension track like on a slide away keyboard tray to make it even easier. :-) Our christmas tree is a pain to decorate and un-decorate, too, but that's because it's gotten taller than our extension ladder. |
#30
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On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 16:02:27 -0500, "
wrote: Toss out the Christmas tree? I paid $60 for it a few years ago and it's still going strong. It's a pain to decorate and undecorate it every year, so I'm going to build a cantilevered closet addition in the corner of the LR where it is usually displayed, and when Christmas is done, just slide the decorated tree into the closet, close the door, and it's all ready for next year. I may put wheels on it, or some kind of extension track like on a slide away keyboard tray to make it even easier. :-) Our christmas tree is a pain to decorate and un-decorate, too, but that's because it's gotten taller than our extension ladder. Put it on a dolly, roll it into the garage, and then roll it back into the house next winter. Joel |
#31
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#32
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Don Klipstein wrote:
In . net, Hybyd2 wrote: For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? 1. Do you have any audio equipment with a phono jack or line level jack? Plug a cable in, clip onto the tip of the cable one of those alligator clip jumper wires, and run it along the plugged-in string and see if the hum changes as you pass one bulb. 2. There are now many strings that have means to bypass blown bulbs. However, I fear that when a bulb blows the voltage across the others will increase. Each burnout would make the remaining bulbs age faster. 3. Get LED strings. Fair sources are Target and Boscovs, last year I saw good choices in the Brookstone online catalog. I saw a "basic" model at Walgreens, but this year none at CVS, Rite Aid nor Eckerd. I love the LED Christmas lights. They are a lot cheaper to operate too! We replace a few strands last year and will replace more this year. We will be using LED lights outside too. If we can get the look we want using less electricity, why not! Two of our strands are programmable for different flashes. We don't put lights on our tree as it is fiber optic and uses one halogen bulb. For reviews on some of these, check out: http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/menutop.htm#21 - Don Klipstein ) |
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If you can remove the bulbs, check them one at a time for continuity
using the multimeter. A bad bulb will be open - infinite resistance. Replace the bad bulbs with good ones from the other strings and you should be in business. If the bulbs are not removable, locate the bad ones by pushing a pin through the wire insulation before and after the suspect bulb. Now you can measure the bulb's continuity using your meter. When you remove the pins the insulation will close back up around the pinhole. To replace a bad bulb, you'll have to cut out the old one, then splice the new (good) one to the resulting wire leads. Note that the light string is UNPLUGGED for all of these tests. Apply power only after the repair is finished to see if you have more burned out bulbs. One more thing - since you have extra bulbs, if you splice in a few extra bulbs into your series string, all of the bulbs will last longer. They'll dim slightly, but every 5% that you decrease their brightness will double their life. On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 17:14:28 GMT, "Hybyd2" wrote: For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? Thanks, Henry |
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On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 10:21:50 -0800, Lou Schneider wrote:
If you can remove the bulbs, check them one at a time for continuity using the multimeter. A bad bulb will be open - infinite resistance. Replace the bad bulbs with good ones from the other strings and you should be in business. If the bulbs are not removable, locate the bad ones by pushing a pin through the wire insulation before and after the suspect bulb. Ye-O-W-W-W-w-w-w-w-w-w-w-w-w! 100 volts! Now you can measure the bulb's continuity using your meter. When you remove the pins the insulation will close back up around the pinhole. To replace a bad bulb, you'll have to cut out the old one, then splice the new (good) one to the resulting wire leads. Note that the light string is UNPLUGGED for all of these tests. Apply power only after the repair is finished to see if you have more burned out bulbs. One more thing - since you have extra bulbs, if you splice in a few extra bulbs into your series string, all of the bulbs will last longer. They'll dim slightly, but every 5% that you decrease their brightness will double their life. On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 17:14:28 GMT, "Hybyd2" wrote: For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? Thanks, Henry |
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"Hybyd2" wrote in message ink.net... For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? Thanks, Henry Divide string in half by removing center bulb - check for continuity to one end of the cord. Repeat as necessary by dividing and checking each bad half of the remaining strings. 5 tests + confirmation of the bad bulb checks a string of 100. Dave |
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On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 18:42:42 GMT, "JustDave"
wrote: "Hybyd2" wrote in message link.net... For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? Thanks, Henry Divide string in half by removing center bulb - check for continuity to one end of the cord. Repeat as necessary by dividing and checking each bad half of the remaining strings. 5 tests + confirmation of the bad bulb checks a string of 100. Dave Eight, nine hours you should have it all checked. |
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From: "JustDave"
"Hybyd2" wrote in message link.net... For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? Thanks, Henry Divide string in half by removing center bulb - check for continuity to one end of the cord. Repeat as necessary by dividing and checking each bad half of the remaining strings. 5 tests + confirmation of the bad bulb checks a string of 100. Dave There's no such thing as a string of 100. (bulbs in series, that is) Those strings would be 2-strings of 50, or 5 strings of 20. But your method is sound. Here's another for strings of 50 or 100 with 2.4 volt bulbs: Cut off a 1- piece length of 10 sockets/ lamps from a set you're disposing of anyway. Also remove 2 additional lamps and bases from that set, and take those 2 lamps out of their bases. Strip the wire at each end of the 10 string and divide in two so it forks slightly, and thread both ends of the 10-socket length through a lamp base, same way you'd change a bad bulb. From a working string, remove the 1st, 2nd, 9th and 10th lamp and replace the 1st and 10th lamp with your test string. If it lights along with the rest of the 50 lamps, the test string is good. On a non working string of 50, or the half non working string of 100, remove the 1st, and 10th lamp. Plug one side of the test string into the 1st and the other into the 10th. If the set doesn't light, remove the test from the 1st, replace the lamp and swing it over to the 20th. Continue until you've got the set lit and isolated the section with only 9 suspect lamps, then, switch the test lamps with the suspect lamps until you've found the little *******. Noma and GE are both marketing "Sta-Lit" sets. Even if you yank a bulb, the set remains lit. (Shunts located in lamps AND the sockets) LED light sets do not contain either blue or white (clear) lamps. |
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"Michael Black" wrote in message ... Subject: Fixing Christmas lights ... Reply-To: (Michael Black) References: . net Organization: The National Capital FreeNet Joel M. Eichen ) writes: On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 18:42:42 GMT, "JustDave" wrote: "Hybyd2" wrote in message thlink.net... For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? Thanks, Henry Divide string in half by removing center bulb - check for continuity to one end of the cord. Repeat as necessary by dividing and checking each bad half of the remaining strings. 5 tests + confirmation of the bad bulb checks a string of 100. Dave Eight, nine hours you should have it all checked. No, he's described a minimal search technique, though at the moment I can't recall what it's called. if it were a computer program, you would call it a binary search i believe. randy |
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I've found that by watching the sales, I can usually get 100 count strands
of lights for around $2.50. I buy 2-4 boxes almost every year and don't bother messing more than a few minutes if a strand won't light. It's just not worth the hassle. Melissa "Hybyd2" wrote in message ink.net... For one who has the time but is low on funds ... how does one fix those strings of Christmas tree / colored lights that have the bulbs in series - presumably, if one bulb blows they all get knocked out? I have a multimeter and several non-working strings (so hopefully there are plenty of spare light bulbs). Suggestions? Thanks, Henry |
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