Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache..

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 5:35:12 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.

Hose partially collapsed?

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.

On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks.. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.

I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here.. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale.. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?

On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 3:28:15 AM UTC-5, Thomas Argo wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account.. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?
No. Different tests. A radiator pressure test:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test
A compression test.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression
A combustion leak test.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYz4Kl1IcSw
I've never had to do these tests so I just know they exist.

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:07:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle.

Especially this kind of failure, which would be the impeller would have to have
fallen apart or be slipping. Leaking is the common failure and like you say, 60K
is unusual even for that.

Another possibility, is he sure it's really overheating, that the temp sending unit isn't
faulty?

On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 7:35:28 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:07:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here.. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale.. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle.
Especially this kind of failure, which would be the impeller would have to have
fallen apart or be slipping. Leaking is the common failure and like you say, 60K
is unusual even for that.

Another possibility, is he sure it's really overheating, that the temp sending unit isn't
faulty?
Definately overheating. Lost most coolant thru overflow, sprayed over engine. Major bucking so shut it down.
Towed to shop. Replaced thermostat and fan clutch. Not good enough. My bad comment...had both pressure test and cumbustion test. Both good. I have 3 nissans with issues and easily forget which had what.

Another possibility, is he sure it's really overheating,
that the temp sending unit isn't faulty?

Definately overheating. Lost most coolant thru overflow, sprayed over engine.
Major bucking so shut it down. Towed to shop. Replaced thermostat and fan clutch.
Not good enough. My bad comment...had both pressure test and cumbustion test.
Both good. I have 3 nissans with issues and easily forget which had what.


I haven't followed this thread from the start -
- sorry if I'm repeating.
Have you scoured the Xterra forums ?
Sometimes these things are endemic and well known -
- to the _Nissan_ people -
... maybe not so much to your local garage guy ...
Good luck.

https://www.clubxterra.org/search/10...ng&o=relevance

John T.

On 5/26/2021 4:16 PM, wrote:


Another possibility, is he sure it's really overheating,
that the temp sending unit isn't faulty?

Definately overheating. Lost most coolant thru overflow, sprayed over engine.
Major bucking so shut it down. Towed to shop. Replaced thermostat and fan clutch.
Not good enough. My bad comment...had both pressure test and cumbustion test.
Both good. I have 3 nissans with issues and easily forget which had what.


I haven't followed this thread from the start -
- sorry if I'm repeating.
Have you scoured the Xterra forums ?
Sometimes these things are endemic and well known -
- to the _Nissan_ people -
.. maybe not so much to your local garage guy ...
Good luck.

https://www.clubxterra.org/search/10...ng&o=relevance

John T.


Sounds a lot like a plugged up radiator to me. If the heater can keep i
running, the pump is probably fine.

On Wed, 26 May 2021 01:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?
Does it overheat at speed on the road with AC off? If not, does it
get hot as soon as you slow down?
If you run it with the cap off, from cold, do you see circulation
through the rad when it starts to warm up?

Does the top hose get warm first? Does the rad get hot before the
heat guage shows over normal? Does it have an electric fan that is
supposed to run when the AC is on?

Get me the answers and I will be able to give you a better diagnosis
but I'm suspecting a blocked / restricted rad - either on the air or
water side - but then again , it IS a NISSAN - - -

On Wed, 26 May 2021 19:16:13 -0400, wrote:



Another possibility, is he sure it's really overheating,
that the temp sending unit isn't faulty?

Definately overheating. Lost most coolant thru overflow, sprayed over engine.
Major bucking so shut it down. Towed to shop. Replaced thermostat and fan clutch.
Not good enough. My bad comment...had both pressure test and cumbustion test.
Both good. I have 3 nissans with issues and easily forget which had what.


I haven't followed this thread from the start -
- sorry if I'm repeating.
Have you scoured the Xterra forums ?
Sometimes these things are endemic and well known -
- to the _Nissan_ people -
.. maybe not so much to your local garage guy ...
Good luck.

https://www.clubxterra.org/search/10...ng&o=relevance

John T.
Gee - THREE Nissans??? Gotta ask - is this your only system of
masochism???

On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:39:21 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 May 2021 19:16:13 -0400, wrote:



Another possibility, is he sure it's really overheating,
that the temp sending unit isn't faulty?

Definately overheating. Lost most coolant thru overflow, sprayed over engine.
Major bucking so shut it down. Towed to shop. Replaced thermostat and fan clutch.
Not good enough. My bad comment...had both pressure test and cumbustion test.
Both good. I have 3 nissans with issues and easily forget which
Gee - THREE Nissans??? Gotta ask - is this your only system of
masochism???
Many more.
The xterra was my choice, then wife came with me for a service call and traded a ford explorer for a new 2012 juke. My daughters 2011 murano had a complete tranny failure so I bought it for 1000. Tranny was 4293 and about 800 for rotors and brakes. I did not know that part. Wanted to sell xterra to pay for the murano but it needed to be towed the same exact day i had the murano towed to aamco for tranny.


I will do the checks you asked for, maybe saturday. Thanks for helping.

On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:37:58 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 May 2021 01:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?
Does it overheat at speed on the road with AC off? If not, does it
get hot as soon as you slow down?
If you run it with the cap off, from cold, do you see circulation
through the rad when it starts to warm up?

Does the top hose get warm first? Does the rad get hot before the
heat guage shows over normal? Does it have an electric fan that is
supposed to run when the AC is on?

Get me the answers and I will be able to give you a better diagnosis
but I'm suspecting a blocked / restricted rad - either on the air or
water side - but then again , it IS a NISSAN - - -
Here is my test.
Time. O4.55 cap off
4.59 no motion
5.02 gauge cool no motion, all belts spinning and fan. I can smell anti but i am burning old spray off i suspect.
5.05 pm. Gauge normal at 1 third up from cold.
This is all parked at about 950 rpm.
Gauge half up and movement without cap.
Top hose hotter than rad. 5.07 cap back on. Fluid was close to top of rad.
Gauge half way.
5.08 turned heat on. Gauge less than half.
5.10. Rampped rpm to 3000, no change.
5.12 turned heat off
5.14 heat off 2500 plus for a bit gauge still below half.
5.20 rad and hose both hot. 2 second grab at best. Gauge less than half.
5.21 ac on. Still normal. Upped rpm to 2500 and gauge going down slightly.
5.25 ac on 950 rpm gauge going up quick
3000 rpm gauge going up quicker to 3 quarter.
Ac off at 3000 getting hotter.
Let off gas still hot.
Temp dropping with ac off and heat on at 950 rpm.
That is where i am at.

On Thu, 27 May 2021 14:52:40 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:37:58 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 May 2021 01:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?
Does it overheat at speed on the road with AC off? If not, does it
get hot as soon as you slow down?
If you run it with the cap off, from cold, do you see circulation
through the rad when it starts to warm up?

Does the top hose get warm first? Does the rad get hot before the
heat guage shows over normal? Does it have an electric fan that is
supposed to run when the AC is on?

Get me the answers and I will be able to give you a better diagnosis
but I'm suspecting a blocked / restricted rad - either on the air or
water side - but then again , it IS a NISSAN - - -
Here is my test.
Time. O4.55 cap off
4.59 no motion
5.02 gauge cool no motion, all belts spinning and fan. I can smell anti but i am burning old spray off i suspect.
5.05 pm. Gauge normal at 1 third up from cold.
This is all parked at about 950 rpm.
Gauge half up and movement without cap.
Top hose hotter than rad. 5.07 cap back on. Fluid was close to top of rad.
Gauge half way.
5.08 turned heat on. Gauge less than half.
5.10. Rampped rpm to 3000, no change.
5.12 turned heat off
5.14 heat off 2500 plus for a bit gauge still below half.
5.20 rad and hose both hot. 2 second grab at best. Gauge less than half.
5.21 ac on. Still normal. Upped rpm to 2500 and gauge going down slightly.
5.25 ac on 950 rpm gauge going up quick
3000 rpm gauge going up quicker to 3 quarter.
Ac off at 3000 getting hotter.
Let off gas still hot.
Temp dropping with ac off and heat on at 950 rpm.
That is where i am at.

How about on the road at 50MPH, ac off and ac on???

On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 11:38:53 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 27 May 2021 14:52:40 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:37:58 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 May 2021 01:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?
Does it overheat at speed on the road with AC off? If not, does it
get hot as soon as you slow down?
If you run it with the cap off, from cold, do you see circulation
through the rad when it starts to warm up?

Does the top hose get warm first? Does the rad get hot before the
heat guage shows over normal? Does it have an electric fan that is
supposed to run when the AC is on?

Get me the answers and I will be able to give you a better diagnosis
but I'm suspecting a blocked / restricted rad - either on the air or
water side - but then again , it IS a NISSAN - - -
Here is my test.
Time. O4.55 cap off
4.59 no motion
5.02 gauge cool no motion, all belts spinning and fan. I can smell anti but i am burning old spray off i suspect.
5.05 pm. Gauge normal at 1 third up from cold.
This is all parked at about 950 rpm.
Gauge half up and movement without cap.
Top hose hotter than rad. 5.07 cap back on. Fluid was close to top of rad.
Gauge half way.
5.08 turned heat on. Gauge less than half.
5.10. Rampped rpm to 3000, no change.
5.12 turned heat off
5.14 heat off 2500 plus for a bit gauge still below half.
5.20 rad and hose both hot. 2 second grab at best. Gauge less than half.
5.21 ac on. Still normal. Upped rpm to 2500 and gauge going down slightly.
5.25 ac on 950 rpm gauge going up quick
3000 rpm gauge going up quicker to 3 quarter.
Ac off at 3000 getting hotter.
Let off gas still hot.
Temp dropping with ac off and heat on at 950 rpm.
That is where i am at.

How about on the road at 50MPH, ac off and ac on???
Raining like we need it, 50 test in am, rain or not. Thanks for sticking with me.

On Friday, May 28, 2021 at 5:38:13 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 11:38:53 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 27 May 2021 14:52:40 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:37:58 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 May 2021 01:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad.. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?
Does it overheat at speed on the road with AC off? If not, does it
get hot as soon as you slow down?
If you run it with the cap off, from cold, do you see circulation
through the rad when it starts to warm up?

Does the top hose get warm first? Does the rad get hot before the
heat guage shows over normal? Does it have an electric fan that is
supposed to run when the AC is on?

Get me the answers and I will be able to give you a better diagnosis
but I'm suspecting a blocked / restricted rad - either on the air or
water side - but then again , it IS a NISSAN - - -
Here is my test.
Time. O4.55 cap off
4.59 no motion
5.02 gauge cool no motion, all belts spinning and fan. I can smell anti but i am burning old spray off i suspect.
5.05 pm. Gauge normal at 1 third up from cold.
This is all parked at about 950 rpm.
Gauge half up and movement without cap.
Top hose hotter than rad. 5.07 cap back on. Fluid was close to top of rad.
Gauge half way.
5.08 turned heat on. Gauge less than half.
5.10. Rampped rpm to 3000, no change.
5.12 turned heat off
5.14 heat off 2500 plus for a bit gauge still below half.
5.20 rad and hose both hot. 2 second grab at best. Gauge less than half.
5.21 ac on. Still normal. Upped rpm to 2500 and gauge going down slightly.
5.25 ac on 950 rpm gauge going up quick
3000 rpm gauge going up quicker to 3 quarter.
Ac off at 3000 getting hotter.
Let off gas still hot.
Temp dropping with ac off and heat on at 950 rpm.
That is where i am at.

How about on the road at 50MPH, ac off and ac on???
Raining like we need it, 50 test in am, rain or not. Thanks for sticking with me.
3 nissans lol. Putting new mass air flow sensor in murano in am 110,000. Just arrived from partsgeeks.
Cataclean in 2012 juke. Hoping for some relief. 60,500 miles same as 2004 xterra.

Going broke quick. For sale. Any one. Insurance passed mortgage per month.

On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 5:52:44 PM UTC-4, Thomas Argo wrote:
On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:37:58 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 May 2021 01:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?
Does it overheat at speed on the road with AC off? If not, does it
get hot as soon as you slow down?
If you run it with the cap off, from cold, do you see circulation
through the rad when it starts to warm up?

Does the top hose get warm first? Does the rad get hot before the
heat guage shows over normal? Does it have an electric fan that is
supposed to run when the AC is on?

Get me the answers and I will be able to give you a better diagnosis
but I'm suspecting a blocked / restricted rad - either on the air or
water side - but then again , it IS a NISSAN - - -
Here is my test.
Time. O4.55 cap off
4.59 no motion
5.02 gauge cool no motion, all belts spinning and fan. I can smell anti but i am burning old spray off i suspect.
5.05 pm. Gauge normal at 1 third up from cold.
This is all parked at about 950 rpm.
Gauge half up and movement without cap.
Top hose hotter than rad. 5.07 cap back on. Fluid was close to top of rad..
Gauge half way.
5.08 turned heat on. Gauge less than half.
5.10. Rampped rpm to 3000, no change.
5.12 turned heat off
5.14 heat off 2500 plus for a bit gauge still below half.
5.20 rad and hose both hot. 2 second grab at best. Gauge less than half.
5.21 ac on. Still normal. Upped rpm to 2500 and gauge going down slightly..
5.25 ac on 950 rpm gauge going up quick
3000 rpm gauge going up quicker to 3 quarter.
Ac off at 3000 getting hotter.
Let off gas still hot.
Temp dropping with ac off and heat on at 950 rpm.
That is where i am at.

Auxiliary fan? Is it coming on when the temp goes above mid-point?

On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 8:43:50 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 5:52:44 PM UTC-4, Thomas Argo wrote:
On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:37:58 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 May 2021 01:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down.. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump.. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?
Does it overheat at speed on the road with AC off? If not, does it
get hot as soon as you slow down?
If you run it with the cap off, from cold, do you see circulation
through the rad when it starts to warm up?

Does the top hose get warm first? Does the rad get hot before the
heat guage shows over normal? Does it have an electric fan that is
supposed to run when the AC is on?

Get me the answers and I will be able to give you a better diagnosis
but I'm suspecting a blocked / restricted rad - either on the air or
water side - but then again , it IS a NISSAN - - -
Here is my test.
Time. O4.55 cap off
4.59 no motion
5.02 gauge cool no motion, all belts spinning and fan. I can smell anti but i am burning old spray off i suspect.
5.05 pm. Gauge normal at 1 third up from cold.
This is all parked at about 950 rpm.
Gauge half up and movement without cap.
Top hose hotter than rad. 5.07 cap back on. Fluid was close to top of rad.
Gauge half way.
5.08 turned heat on. Gauge less than half.
5.10. Rampped rpm to 3000, no change.
5.12 turned heat off
5.14 heat off 2500 plus for a bit gauge still below half.
5.20 rad and hose both hot. 2 second grab at best. Gauge less than half..
5.21 ac on. Still normal. Upped rpm to 2500 and gauge going down slightly.
5.25 ac on 950 rpm gauge going up quick
3000 rpm gauge going up quicker to 3 quarter.
Ac off at 3000 getting hotter.
Let off gas still hot.
Temp dropping with ac off and heat on at 950 rpm.
That is where i am at.
Auxiliary fan? Is it coming on when the temp goes above mid-point?
Auxailary fan? I think i have one fan. Should i look? Where would it be? Next to or behind big fan?
Going to look now...

Clare, did the drive it like I stole it. I could not get needle above half, ac, heat or all off.
My for sale sign blew off and the check ingine light came on. No overheating. Did that drive and park for 30 minutes or better. Outside temp is 50 if it could play a part. Overheating in the past took place at 90.
Unrelated, Did mass flow air sensor on murano and cataclean on juke earlier. Drove the juke like i stole it and had drivers passing me off. I was at 100. In the rain. Scary drivers here in Pa.

Going to start the x and let it run where it sits. It is 2.12 my time. Will report back in an hour. I have about 5 gal gas in it.

On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 2:15:00 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Clare, did the drive it like I stole it. I could not get needle above half, ac, heat or all off.
My for sale sign blew off and the check ingine light came on. No overheating. Did that drive and park for 30 minutes or better. Outside temp is 50 if it could play a part. Overheating in the past took place at 90.
Unrelated, Did mass flow air sensor on murano and cataclean on juke earlier. Drove the juke like i stole it and had drivers passing me off. I was at 100. In the rain. Scary drivers here in Pa.

Going to start the x and let it run where it sits. It is 2.12 my time. Will report back in an hour. I have about 5 gal gas in it.
Did a sit and see. 20 minutes looking good. Ok until i ramped it up to 4500 rpm for 2 min. Gauge went to danger mark quick. Took it back to 900 rpm but it fell slowly but never safe. Did 4500 again and it went from below that danger line to the top in 5 seconds. Let it rest at 900 for a minute but it did not lower. Shut it down af 3.10 my time. 51f in my yard. Flashlight did not see any steam. Nothing to see nor smell. Fan spinning where i could not see blades fast.

On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 3:19:38 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 2:15:00 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Clare, did the drive it like I stole it. I could not get needle above half, ac, heat or all off.
My for sale sign blew off and the check ingine light came on. No overheating. Did that drive and park for 30 minutes or better. Outside temp is 50 if it could play a part. Overheating in the past took place at 90.
Unrelated, Did mass flow air sensor on murano and cataclean on juke earlier. Drove the juke like i stole it and had drivers passing me off. I was at 100. In the rain. Scary drivers here in Pa.

Going to start the x and let it run where it sits. It is 2.12 my time. Will report back in an hour. I have about 5 gal gas in it.
Did a sit and see. 20 minutes looking good. Ok until i ramped it up to 4500 rpm for 2 min. Gauge went to danger mark quick. Took it back to 900 rpm but it fell slowly but never safe. Did 4500 again and it went from below that danger line to the top in 5 seconds. Let it rest at 900 for a minute but it did not lower. Shut it down af 3.10 my time. 51f in my yard. Flashlight did not see any steam. Nothing to see nor smell. Fan spinning where i could not see blades fast.
Just a bump in case

When it starts to over heat, have the heat on full and feel the temp of air. If it cools off as the motor is overheating you have no coolant flow. I will bet if that is the case you have a bad head gasket.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...s-3121322-.htm

On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 2:02:26 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 8:43:50 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 5:52:44 PM UTC-4, Thomas Argo wrote:
On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:37:58 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 May 2021 01:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems..php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?
Does it overheat at speed on the road with AC off? If not, does it
get hot as soon as you slow down?
If you run it with the cap off, from cold, do you see circulation
through the rad when it starts to warm up?

Does the top hose get warm first? Does the rad get hot before the
heat guage shows over normal? Does it have an electric fan that is
supposed to run when the AC is on?

Get me the answers and I will be able to give you a better diagnosis
but I'm suspecting a blocked / restricted rad - either on the air or
water side - but then again , it IS a NISSAN - - -
Here is my test.
Time. O4.55 cap off
4.59 no motion
5.02 gauge cool no motion, all belts spinning and fan. I can smell anti but i am burning old spray off i suspect.
5.05 pm. Gauge normal at 1 third up from cold.
This is all parked at about 950 rpm.
Gauge half up and movement without cap.
Top hose hotter than rad. 5.07 cap back on. Fluid was close to top of rad.
Gauge half way.
5.08 turned heat on. Gauge less than half.
5.10. Rampped rpm to 3000, no change.
5.12 turned heat off
5.14 heat off 2500 plus for a bit gauge still below half.
5.20 rad and hose both hot. 2 second grab at best. Gauge less than half.
5.21 ac on. Still normal. Upped rpm to 2500 and gauge going down slightly.
5.25 ac on 950 rpm gauge going up quick
3000 rpm gauge going up quicker to 3 quarter.
Ac off at 3000 getting hotter.
Let off gas still hot.
Temp dropping with ac off and heat on at 950 rpm.
That is where i am at.
Auxiliary fan? Is it coming on when the temp goes above mid-point?
Auxailary fan? I think i have one fan. Should i look? Where would it be? Next to or behind big fan?
Going to look now...

It's like a window fan, sits in front of the radiator, typically, though I guess it could be behind
it. It comes on when the coolant temp rises above a certain point because the mechanical
fan alone can't provide enough cooling. Some cars, eg BMW use a variable speed fan
which complicates things. These fans may not need to come on when it's 70F and
the car is just idling. But if you've driven it hard, have the AC on, it's 85F ambient,
and you stop driving and let it idle, it should be coming on. Also, I believe you said you
put in a new fan clutch too. Is it working?
Simple, crude test is to use a rolled up newspaper to gently try to stop the fan
from spinning. When it's cold the clutch should be mostly free, so that the newspaper
easily slows the fan down and stops it. When it's hot, it's much harder to slow down with
the newspaper. That translates into the fan spinning slower when it's cold, faster when it's
hot. If it's not working right, you could have low airflow when it's hot.

On Friday, June 4, 2021 at 9:01:39 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 2:02:26 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 8:43:50 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 5:52:44 PM UTC-4, Thomas Argo wrote:
On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:37:58 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 May 2021 01:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?
Does it overheat at speed on the road with AC off? If not, does it
get hot as soon as you slow down?
If you run it with the cap off, from cold, do you see circulation
through the rad when it starts to warm up?

Does the top hose get warm first? Does the rad get hot before the
heat guage shows over normal? Does it have an electric fan that is
supposed to run when the AC is on?

Get me the answers and I will be able to give you a better diagnosis
but I'm suspecting a blocked / restricted rad - either on the air or
water side - but then again , it IS a NISSAN - - -
Here is my test.
Time. O4.55 cap off
4.59 no motion
5.02 gauge cool no motion, all belts spinning and fan. I can smell anti but i am burning old spray off i suspect.
5.05 pm. Gauge normal at 1 third up from cold.
This is all parked at about 950 rpm.
Gauge half up and movement without cap.
Top hose hotter than rad. 5.07 cap back on. Fluid was close to top of rad.
Gauge half way.
5.08 turned heat on. Gauge less than half.
5.10. Rampped rpm to 3000, no change.
5.12 turned heat off
5.14 heat off 2500 plus for a bit gauge still below half.
5.20 rad and hose both hot. 2 second grab at best. Gauge less than half.
5.21 ac on. Still normal. Upped rpm to 2500 and gauge going down slightly.
5.25 ac on 950 rpm gauge going up quick
3000 rpm gauge going up quicker to 3 quarter.
Ac off at 3000 getting hotter.
Let off gas still hot.
Temp dropping with ac off and heat on at 950 rpm.
That is where i am at.
Auxiliary fan? Is it coming on when the temp goes above mid-point?
Auxailary fan? I think i have one fan. Should i look? Where would it be? Next to or behind big fan?
Going to look now...
It's like a window fan, sits in front of the radiator, typically, though I guess it could be behind
it. It comes on when the coolant temp rises above a certain point because the mechanical
fan alone can't provide enough cooling. Some cars, eg BMW use a variable speed fan
which complicates things. These fans may not need to come on when it's 70F and
the car is just idling. But if you've driven it hard, have the AC on, it's 85F ambient,
and you stop driving and let it idle, it should be coming on. Also, I believe you said you
put in a new fan clutch too. Is it working?
Simple, crude test is to use a rolled up newspaper to gently try to stop the fan
from spinning. When it's cold the clutch should be mostly free, so that the newspaper
easily slows the fan down and stops it. When it's hot, it's much harder to slow down with
the newspaper. That translates into the fan spinning slower when it's cold, faster when it's
hot. If it's not working right, you could have low airflow when it's hot.
Did the Taste Of Home magazine test. Could not stop it cold nor hot. Shredded my magazine.
30 min in driveway, no overheating.

On Saturday, June 5, 2021 at 8:07:43 AM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Friday, June 4, 2021 at 9:01:39 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 2:02:26 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 8:43:50 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 5:52:44 PM UTC-4, Thomas Argo wrote:
On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:37:58 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 May 2021 01:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?
Does it overheat at speed on the road with AC off? If not, does it
get hot as soon as you slow down?
If you run it with the cap off, from cold, do you see circulation
through the rad when it starts to warm up?

Does the top hose get warm first? Does the rad get hot before the
heat guage shows over normal? Does it have an electric fan that is
supposed to run when the AC is on?

Get me the answers and I will be able to give you a better diagnosis
but I'm suspecting a blocked / restricted rad - either on the air or
water side - but then again , it IS a NISSAN - - -
Here is my test.
Time. O4.55 cap off
4.59 no motion
5.02 gauge cool no motion, all belts spinning and fan. I can smell anti but i am burning old spray off i suspect.
5.05 pm. Gauge normal at 1 third up from cold.
This is all parked at about 950 rpm.
Gauge half up and movement without cap.
Top hose hotter than rad. 5.07 cap back on. Fluid was close to top of rad.
Gauge half way.
5.08 turned heat on. Gauge less than half.
5.10. Rampped rpm to 3000, no change.
5.12 turned heat off
5.14 heat off 2500 plus for a bit gauge still below half.
5.20 rad and hose both hot. 2 second grab at best. Gauge less than half.
5.21 ac on. Still normal. Upped rpm to 2500 and gauge going down slightly.
5.25 ac on 950 rpm gauge going up quick
3000 rpm gauge going up quicker to 3 quarter.
Ac off at 3000 getting hotter.
Let off gas still hot.
Temp dropping with ac off and heat on at 950 rpm.
That is where i am at.
Auxiliary fan? Is it coming on when the temp goes above mid-point?
Auxailary fan? I think i have one fan. Should i look? Where would it be? Next to or behind big fan?
Going to look now...
It's like a window fan, sits in front of the radiator, typically, though I guess it could be behind
it. It comes on when the coolant temp rises above a certain point because the mechanical
fan alone can't provide enough cooling. Some cars, eg BMW use a variable speed fan
which complicates things. These fans may not need to come on when it's 70F and
the car is just idling. But if you've driven it hard, have the AC on, it's 85F ambient,
and you stop driving and let it idle, it should be coming on. Also, I believe you said you
put in a new fan clutch too. Is it working?
Simple, crude test is to use a rolled up newspaper to gently try to stop the fan
from spinning. When it's cold the clutch should be mostly free, so that the newspaper
easily slows the fan down and stops it. When it's hot, it's much harder to slow down with
the newspaper. That translates into the fan spinning slower when it's cold, faster when it's
hot. If it's not working right, you could have low airflow when it's hot.

For sale. 60175 miles, interior sparkling. No rips tears or burns.
I am sick if being nickeled and dimed. I had it posted for 7900. Will take 5800.



In Canada, it's valued at $ 3200. good / $ 5000. excellent
condition ; in _Canadian_ dollars ..

http://www.vmrcanada.com/used-car/va...an-xterra.html

Could it be the auto transmission failing - ant the transmission
heat-up causing the coolant overheating after a time .. ?
You mentioned "bucking" ..
not sure if this vehicle has any aux. tranny cooling ?
or is it just inside the main radiator ?
John T.

On Sat, 5 Jun 2021 05:07:40 -0700 (PDT), Thomas
wrote:

On Friday, June 4, 2021 at 9:01:39 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

Simple, crude test is to use a rolled up newspaper to gently try to stop the fan
from spinning. When it's cold the clutch should be mostly free, so that the newspaper
easily slows the fan down and stops it. When it's hot, it's much harder to slow down with
the newspaper. That translates into the fan spinning slower when it's cold, faster when it's
hot. If it's not working right, you could have low airflow when it's hot.

Did the Taste Of Home magazine test. Could not stop it cold nor hot. Shredded my magazine.
30 min in driveway, no overheating.

When I was a kid, my friend and I each stopped a spinning fan by hand.
Being boys, we always wanted to find ways to prove how tough we were.

On 6/5/21 7:12 PM, Jim Joyce wrote:
On Sat, 5 Jun 2021 05:07:40 -0700 (PDT), Thomas
wrote:

On Friday, June 4, 2021 at 9:01:39 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
Simple, crude test is to use a rolled up newspaper to gently try to stop the fan
from spinning. When it's cold the clutch should be mostly free, so that the newspaper
easily slows the fan down and stops it. When it's hot, it's much harder to slow down with
the newspaper. That translates into the fan spinning slower when it's cold, faster when it's
hot. If it's not working right, you could have low airflow when it's hot.
Did the Taste Of Home magazine test. Could not stop it cold nor hot. Shredded my magazine.
30 min in driveway, no overheating.
When I was a kid, my friend and I each stopped a spinning fan by hand.
Being boys, we always wanted to find ways to prove how tough we were.

From the intake or discharge side?

On Sun, 6 Jun 2021 05:54:46 -0400, "B. Les White"
wrote:

On 6/5/21 7:12 PM, Jim Joyce wrote:
On Sat, 5 Jun 2021 05:07:40 -0700 (PDT), Thomas
wrote:

On Friday, June 4, 2021 at 9:01:39 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
Simple, crude test is to use a rolled up newspaper to gently try to stop the fan
from spinning. When it's cold the clutch should be mostly free, so that the newspaper
easily slows the fan down and stops it. When it's hot, it's much harder to slow down with
the newspaper. That translates into the fan spinning slower when it's cold, faster when it's
hot. If it's not working right, you could have low airflow when it's hot.
Did the Taste Of Home magazine test. Could not stop it cold nor hot. Shredded my magazine.
30 min in driveway, no overheating.
When I was a kid, my friend and I each stopped a spinning fan by hand.
Being boys, we always wanted to find ways to prove how tough we were.

From the intake or discharge side?

Discharge (engine) side. Gee, we weren't savages. Besides, the intake side,
where the spinning blades are relatively sharp, is up against the radiator,
tucked inside the shroud.