On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:37:58 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 May 2021 01:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Thomas Argo
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:10:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:07:56 PM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:54:58 PM UTC-5, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 7:32:46 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:35:12 PM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy ****, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.
On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it
and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing
that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking,
not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible,
but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is
a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.
Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.
How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.
I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the
radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything.
A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/xterra/radiator-problems.php
Did the mechanic do a pressure test on the cooling system?
Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?
Does it overheat at speed on the road with AC off? If not, does it
get hot as soon as you slow down?
If you run it with the cap off, from cold, do you see circulation
through the rad when it starts to warm up?

Does the top hose get warm first? Does the rad get hot before the
heat guage shows over normal? Does it have an electric fan that is
supposed to run when the AC is on?

Get me the answers and I will be able to give you a better diagnosis
but I'm suspecting a blocked / restricted rad - either on the air or
water side - but then again , it IS a NISSAN - - -
Here is my test.
Time. O4.55 cap off
4.59 no motion
5.02 gauge cool no motion, all belts spinning and fan. I can smell anti but i am burning old spray off i suspect.
5.05 pm. Gauge normal at 1 third up from cold.
This is all parked at about 950 rpm.
Gauge half up and movement without cap.
Top hose hotter than rad. 5.07 cap back on. Fluid was close to top of rad.
Gauge half way.
5.08 turned heat on. Gauge less than half.
5.10. Rampped rpm to 3000, no change.
5.12 turned heat off
5.14 heat off 2500 plus for a bit gauge still below half.
5.20 rad and hose both hot. 2 second grab at best. Gauge less than half.
5.21 ac on. Still normal. Upped rpm to 2500 and gauge going down slightly.
5.25 ac on 950 rpm gauge going up quick
3000 rpm gauge going up quicker to 3 quarter.
Ac off at 3000 getting hotter.
Let off gas still hot.
Temp dropping with ac off and heat on at 950 rpm.
That is where i am at.