I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

On 8/31/20 6:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

How about something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/GraficBraid-Style-1000-Compression-Mechanical/dp/B07H42YSBF/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=rope+packing&qid=1598 916862&sr=8-5

or https://tinyurl.com/yxduazer It's rope or compression
packing. That might let you repair the valve without messing with
other things.

On 8/31/20 6:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

On second thought, the water leaking around the stem on the
outside might indicate the leak is farther back. Sealing the valve at
the hand wheel would just stop the water there and ice could form
inside the valve.
I think your second reference mentioned the existing valve used a
standard size 0 (not oh) washer. Those are available from Amazon.

On Mon, 31 Aug 2020 17:06:25 -0700, "Colonel Edmund J. Burke" wrote:

If my cock is on the sill, does that make it a sillcock?

No, but it makes it BrennAss bait.

LOL

--
Yours Truly, Sir Gregøry

"I went to the wøøds because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the
essential facts of life, and see if I could nøt learn what it had to teach, and
nøt, when I came to die, discover that I had nøt lived." __Henry David Thøreau

On 8/31/20 6:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

This looks like good advice with pictures. Much better than my
off the cuff ideas.
https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Woodford-Sillcock-Anti-Siphon-Valve-Repair.php

On 2020-08-31 5:06 p.m., Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:
On 8/31/2020 4:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco),
they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to
manufacture, but are now discontinued.Â* You can view some images he
https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the
house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to
replace the whole unit.Â* If I do need a full replacement, the basement
has a finished w/drywall ceiling.Â* Do I need to cut a whole in the
ceiling to get to the connection ?Â* or can the whole unit be changed
from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.



If my cock is on the sill, does that make it a sillcock?

no it makes you just a cock

On 2020-08-31 5:22 p.m., "Sir Hømer Hall, Esq." wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2020 17:06:25 -0700, "Colonel Edmund J. Burke" wrote:

If my cock is on the sill, does that make it a sillcock?

No, but it makes it BrennAss bait.

LOL

gerk answers his own sock about one of his other socks ,
most professionals would call this irrational thinking

On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 6:08:17 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

It haves like the inside valve is working, but the seal around the hand-wheel is leaking. When you shut the water off, no leaks are observed.
The hose has a nozzle that is closed at the end of the hose. When the water is turned on and pressure is at the hand-wheel, we get a leak.

On 8/31/20 8:40 PM, wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 6:08:17 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

It haves like the inside valve is working, but the seal around the hand-wheel is leaking. When you shut the water off, no leaks are observed.
The hose has a nozzle that is closed at the end of the hose. When the water is turned on and pressure is at the hand-wheel, we get a leak.

Then my first off the cuff remark seems right. That rope or
compression packing might be the answer. I think a hardware store
should have it.

On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 31 Aug 2020 18:38:23 -0500, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 8/31/20 6:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

How about something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/GraficBraid-Style-1000-Compression-Mechanical/dp/B07H42YSBF/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=rope+packing&qid=1598 916862&sr=8-5

Yo don't need 8 feet for one faucet, and you may well never need anymore
of it.. My computer is very slow now but look for 'stem packing" at
Home Depot. That will be fine.

Finally came back:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-5-...0074/203193500
$2.84 for 18 inches, which is also a lot more than you need,

BTW, I like Amazon but it has one small dishonest practice of saying
that two things are bought together, when they are pretty much the same
and no one would buy two at the same time. Home Depot does the same
here, claiming people buy at the same time two different kinds of stem
packing.

Follow the directions and/or directions on the web and/or be sure to
wrap it around the stem so the two ends overlap 1/4 of the way.

With Home Depot and probably other stores you can buy on line, get an
email, and someone in a mask will bring it out to your car.

or https://tinyurl.com/yxduazer It's rope or compression
packing. That might let you repair the valve without messing with
other things.

On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 7:08:17 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

You likely have to open the ceiling. They install in two ways, either soldered
or threaded. If it's threaded, you might be able to unscrew it and get another
one in from outside. I've never repaired, only replaced, so can't help you
there.

On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 8:15:30 PM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 8/31/20 6:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

On second thought, the water leaking around the stem on the
outside might indicate the leak is farther back. Sealing the valve at
the hand wheel would just stop the water there and ice could form
inside the valve.

There is no seal at the hand wheel, the valve is near the far end.


I think your second reference mentioned the existing valve used a
standard size 0 (not oh) washer. Those are available from Amazon.

If it's leaking at the hand wheel, it's not the washer. That would cause
a leak out the spigot. It would be the packing or whatever they used
to seal around the stem that's the problem. Many of these fail from leaving
a hose attached with it filled with water. It freezes and then bad things
happen.

On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.

On 9/1/20 6:52 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 8:15:30 PM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 8/31/20 6:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

On second thought, the water leaking around the stem on the
outside might indicate the leak is farther back. Sealing the valve at
the hand wheel would just stop the water there and ice could form
inside the valve.

There is no seal at the hand wheel, the valve is near the far end.


I think your second reference mentioned the existing valve used a
standard size 0 (not oh) washer. Those are available from Amazon.

If it's leaking at the hand wheel, it's not the washer. That would cause
a leak out the spigot. It would be the packing or whatever they used
to seal around the stem that's the problem. Many of these fail from leaving
a hose attached with it filled with water. It freezes and then bad things
happen.

I was thinking he could remove the hand wheel and the nut. That
would get him to the seal or packing. Then wrap the compression rope
Mickey found around the stem.
https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Woodford-No-11-Anti-Siphon-Faucet-Repair-116-DJFs.jpg
There's a small chance he could get by without removing the hand
wheel depending on the length of the stem.

On Mon, 31 Aug 2020 16:08:11 -0700 (PDT), posted for all of
us to digest...


I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

I have read the other replies and agree that it is probably the stem packing.
You can get two types at your local hardware or big box store. One is the
graphite type as noted in other posts, the other is the Teflon type which is
essentially the same but different materials. Turn the water off to the fixture
& drain. Remove the knob; which may be the hardest part; loosen the stem nut
and remove. Inspect the stem, if it is smooth you are good, if pitted it must
be smoothed or replaced. Wind about 4-5 turns of packing and the stem and
tighten the nut back on and put the knob on test after turning the water back
on. If it still leaks tighten the stem nut more. If it still leaks you could
try more packing or replacing the the stem. Replace knob screw if successful.

You may consider replacing the seat washer while having it apart.

Since you have drywall up the drywall will have to be removed to replace the
whole faucet. If you are replacing it the replacement *may* have to have an
anti-drain back valve (air breaker) on it. Make sure the new faucet pitches so
the water will drain out when closed. I don't know where you live but since you
have drywall up this type of faucet depends on the heat on the interior of the
structure to keep it from freezing. I presume since you have not had previous
problems this is not a factor.

How much will you be using this before the freeze hits? Nice weather to work on
it or decommission it now and wait until the spring? Questions, questions...

Please let us know what you do with this so we can all learn.
--
Tekkie

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 1 Sep 2020 15:02:49 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:


On Mon, 31 Aug 2020 16:08:11 -0700 (PDT), posted for all of
us to digest...


I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

I have read the other replies and agree that it is probably the stem packing.
You can get two types at your local hardware or big box store. One is the
graphite type as noted in other posts, the other is the Teflon type which is
essentially the same but different materials. Turn the water off to the fixture
& drain. Remove the knob; which may be the hardest part; loosen the stem nut

You may not have to remove the knob, maybe just the stemnut. Try that
first.


and remove. Inspect the stem, if it is smooth you are good, if pitted it must
be smoothed or replaced. Wind about 4-5 turns of packing and the stem and
tighten the nut back on and put the knob on test after turning the water back
on. If it still leaks tighten the stem nut more. If it still leaks you could
try more packing or replacing the the stem. Replace knob screw if successful.

You may consider replacing the seat washer while having it apart.

True, and a good idea, but that's to extend its length. Where the story
got started that the washer could be the problem, I don't know, since if
the washer were leaking water would dribble out the of the faucet all
the time, or it would stop only when someone tightened the handle really
hard, more than should be needed. If the faucet is not dribbling, the
washer is not the current problem.

And it's certainly not worth replacing the whole darn valve unless
something not yet mentioned is really wrong. I very much doubt that
when everything points to stem packing. No need to mess with the
ceiling.


Since you have drywall up the drywall will have to be removed to replace the
whole faucet. If you are replacing it the replacement *may* have to have an
anti-drain back valve (air breaker) on it. Make sure the new faucet pitches so
the water will drain out when closed. I don't know where you live but since you
have drywall up this type of faucet depends on the heat on the interior of the
structure to keep it from freezing. I presume since you have not had previous
problems this is not a factor.

How much will you be using this before the freeze hits? Nice weather to work on
it or decommission it now and wait until the spring? Questions, questions...

Please let us know what you do with this so we can all learn.

On Tuesday, September 1, 2020 at 8:23:33 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/1/20 6:52 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 8:15:30 PM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 8/31/20 6:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb..co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

On second thought, the water leaking around the stem on the
outside might indicate the leak is farther back. Sealing the valve at
the hand wheel would just stop the water there and ice could form
inside the valve.

There is no seal at the hand wheel, the valve is near the far end.


I think your second reference mentioned the existing valve used a
standard size 0 (not oh) washer. Those are available from Amazon.

If it's leaking at the hand wheel, it's not the washer. That would cause
a leak out the spigot. It would be the packing or whatever they used
to seal around the stem that's the problem. Many of these fail from leaving
a hose attached with it filled with water. It freezes and then bad things
happen.

I was thinking he could remove the hand wheel and the nut.

AFAIK, the only thing at the hand wheel is the hand wheel and the hand wheel
nut on the end of an 18" stem. I'm not sure how they come apart.


That
would get him to the seal or packing. Then wrap the compression rope
Mickey found around the stem.
https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Woodford-No-11-Anti-Siphon-Faucet-Repair-116-DJFs.jpg
There's a small chance he could get by without removing the hand
wheel depending on the length of the stem.

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 31 Aug 2020 16:08:11 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

I presume you saw my post where I'm sure it's just the stempacking, no
need to mess with the inside of the house.

But for the record, they make screw-in frost proof valves, that, if that
was used to begin with, could conceivalby could be replaced without
going inside the house except to turn the main water valve off.

https://www.amazon.com/Prier-P-164D1...9103634&sr=8-5

On second thought, I don't think you could loosen it without a wrench on
the other part of the pipe, or tighten it enough to not leak without
that wrench. But if you don't like to put holes in sheetrock, it would
be worth trying, if somehow you knew the original valve screwed on.

There are also sharkbite frostfree valves, again if you knew it had
sharkbite already and there is a way to undo sharkbite from the outside
of the house.

Not likely you're in either situation so it's good you don't have to do
this anyhow.

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 31 Aug 2020 16:08:11 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

What's that yellow brick to the left of your faucet?

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

No parts are available from nibco becaue there are no non-standard parts
except the stem, . Washer and stempacking are standard.

I didn't know they made these in 1970. I wish my house had them. I've
stopped using the one in the back of hte house because I rarely used it
yet had to turn it off, drain it, and turn it on every year.

I wonder who invented this thing and why he doesn't get credit. It's
so obvious after someone else thinks of it.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 02 Sep 2020 01:14:26 -0400, micky
wrote:



I have read the other replies and agree that it is probably the stem packing.
You can get two types at your local hardware or big box store. One is the
graphite type as noted in other posts, the other is the Teflon type which is
essentially the same but different materials. Turn the water off to the fixture
& drain. Remove the knob; which may be the hardest part; loosen the stem nut

You may not have to remove the knob, maybe just the stemnut. Try that
first.

I said this before I saw what a tulip handle looked like. It charmingly
covers the stemnut.

And I see they made such things since 1960. Even now I think most
regular homes don't get them, at least around Baltmore. If you're
building a home, even a tract house that doens't have its plumbing yet.
I'd insist on this. Worth the money if you live anywhere it freezes.

On 9/2/2020 5:48 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, September 1, 2020 at 8:23:33 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/1/20 6:52 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 8:15:30 PM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 8/31/20 6:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

On second thought, the water leaking around the stem on the
outside might indicate the leak is farther back. Sealing the valve at
the hand wheel would just stop the water there and ice could form
inside the valve.

There is no seal at the hand wheel, the valve is near the far end.


I think your second reference mentioned the existing valve used a
standard size 0 (not oh) washer. Those are available from Amazon.

If it's leaking at the hand wheel, it's not the washer. That would cause
a leak out the spigot. It would be the packing or whatever they used
to seal around the stem that's the problem. Many of these fail from leaving
a hose attached with it filled with water. It freezes and then bad things
happen.

I was thinking he could remove the hand wheel and the nut.

AFAIK, the only thing at the hand wheel is the hand wheel and the hand wheel
nut on the end of an 18" stem. I'm not sure how they come apart.


That
would get him to the seal or packing. Then wrap the compression rope
Mickey found around the stem.
https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Woodford-No-11-Anti-Siphon-Faucet-Repair-116-DJFs.jpg
There's a small chance he could get by without removing the hand
wheel depending on the length of the stem.

If there is no seal there, it will leak when turned on. There is water
pressure from the valve to the end of the faucet seal.

On 8/31/2020 6:48 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 8/31/20 8:40 PM, wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 6:08:17 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco),
they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to
manufacture, but are now discontinued.Â* You can view some images
he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the
house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to
replace the whole unit.Â* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.Â* Do I need to cut a whole
in the ceiling to get to the connection ?Â* or can the whole unit be
changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

It haves like the inside valve is working, but the seal around the
hand-wheel is leaking.Â* When you shut the water off, no leaks are
observed.
The hose has a nozzle that is closed at the end of the hose. When the
water is turned on and pressure is at the hand-wheel, we get a leak.

Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Then my first off the cuff remark seems right.Â* That rope or
compression packing might be the answer.Â* I think a hardware store
should have it.

I have not taken apart any of those faucets, but they could have an
o-ring or other such seal there.

On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.

On 9/3/2020 11:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture
(Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they
use to manufacture, but are now discontinued.Â* You can view some
images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in
the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to
replace the whole unit.Â* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.Â* Do I need to cut a whole
in the ceiling to get to the connection ?Â* or can the whole unit be
changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.


http://www.quarter-ball.com/download/FP_Sillcock.pdf

Growing up in Wisconsin, we had to remember to drain all outside spigots every fall.

Of course we all had basements, that makes a difference.

Every outside spigot I've seen up north had a faucet outside, and a valve about a foot or so inside the foundation wall. The inside valve had a little drip port to open. I think maybe the faucet sloped back towards the interior valve, because we would close the valve and drain the pipe every fall and water would dribble out inside.

I haven't seen one like this in the south.

On 9/4/2020 2:37 AM, Hawk wrote:
On 9/3/2020 11:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture
(Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that
they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued.Â* You can view
some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in
the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to
replace the whole unit.Â* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.Â* Do I need to cut a
whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ?Â* or can the whole
unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.


http://www.quarter-ball.com/download/FP_Sillcock.pdf



That has 2 seals, a rubber packing #6 and an o-ring #25.

So why replace it if you can easily fix it.

On 9/4/2020 12:01 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/4/2020 2:37 AM, Hawk wrote:
On 9/3/2020 11:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture
(Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that
they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued.Â* You can view
some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in
the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need
to replace the whole unit.Â* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.Â* Do I need to cut a
whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ?Â* or can the whole
unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.


http://www.quarter-ball.com/download/FP_Sillcock.pdf



That has 2 seals, a rubber packing #6 and an o-ring #25.

So why replace it if you can easily fix it.

If he can easily fix it, he wouldn't be in here asking what to do. Ball
valve sillcocks have less internal parts that will deteriorate. They are
superior to the gate valve.

On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 23:22:10 -0400, Hawk wrote:

On 9/4/2020 12:01 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/4/2020 2:37 AM, Hawk wrote:
On 9/3/2020 11:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture
(Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that
they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued.* You can view
some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in
the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need
to replace the whole unit.* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.* Do I need to cut a
whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ?* or can the whole
unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.


http://www.quarter-ball.com/download/FP_Sillcock.pdf



That has 2 seals, a rubber packing #6 and an o-ring #25.

So why replace it if you can easily fix it.

If he can easily fix it, he wouldn't be in here asking what to do. Ball
valve sillcocks have less internal parts that will deteriorate. They are
superior to the gate valve.
But they are USELESS as a "frost free hydrant" - which is what the
OP has. They also MUST have the hose removed before freeze-up in order
to be "Freeze Proof" (don't ask how I found out - - - ) Ball valves
also have the problem that they are NOT repairable when (not if) they
eventually fail.

On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 23:22:10 -0400, Hawk wrote:

On 9/4/2020 12:01 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/4/2020 2:37 AM, Hawk wrote:
On 9/3/2020 11:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture
(Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that
they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued.* You can view
some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in
the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need
to replace the whole unit.* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.* Do I need to cut a
whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ?* or can the whole
unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.


http://www.quarter-ball.com/download/FP_Sillcock.pdf



That has 2 seals, a rubber packing #6 and an o-ring #25.

So why replace it if you can easily fix it.

If he can easily fix it, he wouldn't be in here asking what to do. Ball
valve sillcocks have less internal parts that will deteriorate. They are
superior to the gate valve.
Just because he doesn't know how to easily fix it doesn't mean he
can't - and he is smart enough to know that much -

On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 23:22:10 -0400, Hawk wrote:

On 9/4/2020 12:01 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/4/2020 2:37 AM, Hawk wrote:
On 9/3/2020 11:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture
(Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that
they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued.* You can view
some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in
the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need
to replace the whole unit.* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.* Do I need to cut a
whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ?* or can the whole
unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.


http://www.quarter-ball.com/download/FP_Sillcock.pdf



That has 2 seals, a rubber packing #6 and an o-ring #25.

So why replace it if you can easily fix it.

If he can easily fix it, he wouldn't be in here asking what to do. Ball
valve sillcocks have less internal parts that will deteriorate. They are
superior to the gate valve.
Looked at the link - yes , might be a good solution BUT he needs to
break trhough the finished basement ceiling to install it. IF he can
fix what is therer he doesn't need to fo that.

On 9/4/2020 11:41 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 23:22:10 -0400, Hawk wrote:

On 9/4/2020 12:01 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/4/2020 2:37 AM, Hawk wrote:
On 9/3/2020 11:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture
(Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that
they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued.Â* You can view
some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in
the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need
to replace the whole unit.Â* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.Â* Do I need to cut a
whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ?Â* or can the whole
unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.


http://www.quarter-ball.com/download/FP_Sillcock.pdf



That has 2 seals, a rubber packing #6 and an o-ring #25.

So why replace it if you can easily fix it.

If he can easily fix it, he wouldn't be in here asking what to do. Ball
valve sillcocks have less internal parts that will deteriorate. They are
superior to the gate valve.
But they are USELESS as a "frost free hydrant" - which is what the
OP has. They also MUST have the hose removed before freeze-up in order
to be "Freeze Proof" (don't ask how I found out - - - ) Ball valves
also have the problem that they are NOT repairable when (not if) they
eventually fail.

I've never seen a BV fail if used frequently since the only thing to
cause such is usually lack of use and rust buildup.

On 9/4/2020 11:43 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 23:22:10 -0400, Hawk wrote:

On 9/4/2020 12:01 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/4/2020 2:37 AM, Hawk wrote:
On 9/3/2020 11:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture
(Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that
they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued.Â* You can view
some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in
the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need
to replace the whole unit.Â* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.Â* Do I need to cut a
whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ?Â* or can the whole
unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.


http://www.quarter-ball.com/download/FP_Sillcock.pdf



That has 2 seals, a rubber packing #6 and an o-ring #25.

So why replace it if you can easily fix it.

If he can easily fix it, he wouldn't be in here asking what to do. Ball
valve sillcocks have less internal parts that will deteriorate. They are
superior to the gate valve.
Just because he doesn't know how to easily fix it doesn't mean he
can't - and he is smart enough to know that much -


Possibly.

On 9/4/2020 11:46 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 23:22:10 -0400, Hawk wrote:

On 9/4/2020 12:01 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/4/2020 2:37 AM, Hawk wrote:
On 9/3/2020 11:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture
(Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that
they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued.Â* You can view
some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in
the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need
to replace the whole unit.Â* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.Â* Do I need to cut a
whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ?Â* or can the whole
unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.


http://www.quarter-ball.com/download/FP_Sillcock.pdf



That has 2 seals, a rubber packing #6 and an o-ring #25.

So why replace it if you can easily fix it.

If he can easily fix it, he wouldn't be in here asking what to do. Ball
valve sillcocks have less internal parts that will deteriorate. They are
superior to the gate valve.
Looked at the link - yes , might be a good solution BUT he needs to
break trhough the finished basement ceiling to install it. IF he can
fix what is therer he doesn't need to fo that.

Agree, if he can purchase the correct replacement parts for his current
sillcock.

On Thursday, September 3, 2020 at 8:18:06 PM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
On 9/2/2020 5:48 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, September 1, 2020 at 8:23:33 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/1/20 6:52 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 8:15:30 PM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 8/31/20 6:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

On second thought, the water leaking around the stem on the
outside might indicate the leak is farther back. Sealing the valve at
the hand wheel would just stop the water there and ice could form
inside the valve.

There is no seal at the hand wheel, the valve is near the far end.


I think your second reference mentioned the existing valve used a
standard size 0 (not oh) washer. Those are available from Amazon.

If it's leaking at the hand wheel, it's not the washer. That would cause
a leak out the spigot. It would be the packing or whatever they used
to seal around the stem that's the problem. Many of these fail from leaving
a hose attached with it filled with water. It freezes and then bad things
happen.

I was thinking he could remove the hand wheel and the nut.

AFAIK, the only thing at the hand wheel is the hand wheel and the hand wheel
nut on the end of an 18" stem. I'm not sure how they come apart.


That
would get him to the seal or packing. Then wrap the compression rope
Mickey found around the stem.
https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Woodford-No-11-Anti-Siphon-Faucet-Repair-116-DJFs.jpg
There's a small chance he could get by without removing the hand
wheel depending on the length of the stem.

If there is no seal there, it will leak when turned on. There is water
pressure from the valve to the end of the faucet seal.

Again, the faucet seal is not at the end where the handle is. It's near
the far end, ~16" away, inside, which is why it is freeze proof.

On Friday, September 4, 2020 at 11:41:57 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 23:22:10 -0400, Hawk wrote:

On 9/4/2020 12:01 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/4/2020 2:37 AM, Hawk wrote:
On 9/3/2020 11:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture
(Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that
they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued.Â* You can view
some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in
the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need
to replace the whole unit.Â* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.Â* Do I need to cut a
whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ?Â* or can the whole
unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.


http://www.quarter-ball.com/download/FP_Sillcock.pdf



That has 2 seals, a rubber packing #6 and an o-ring #25.

So why replace it if you can easily fix it.

If he can easily fix it, he wouldn't be in here asking what to do. Ball
valve sillcocks have less internal parts that will deteriorate. They are
superior to the gate valve.
But they are USELESS as a "frost free hydrant" - which is what the
OP has. They also MUST have the hose removed before freeze-up in order
to be "Freeze Proof" (don't ask how I found out - - - ) Ball valves
also have the problem that they are NOT repairable when (not if) they
eventually fail.

While he just said ball valve sillcock, what he meant was freeze proof ball
valve sillcock and he later provided a link to one. I didn't know they existed.

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 4 Sep 2020 05:36:21 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

Growing up in Wisconsin, we had to remember to drain all outside spigots every fall.

Of course we all had basements, that makes a difference.

Every outside spigot I've seen up north had a faucet outside, and a valve about a foot or so inside the foundation wall. The inside valve had a little drip port to open. I think maybe the faucet sloped back towards the interior valve, because we would close the valve and drain the pipe every fall and water would dribble out inside.

That's what I've got.

I have stuff up to a foot below the valve, so I put a little plastic pan
underneath the dribble port, and I've taken to just leaving it there all
year. By next fall, the water evaporates.

I ruined, rounded off, the cap for the little drip port, but they sell a
set of 2 of them at Home Depot. In stock. Only one fits my house, but
c'est la vie.


I haven't seen one like this in the south.

On 9/5/2020 4:47 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, September 3, 2020 at 8:18:06 PM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
On 9/2/2020 5:48 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, September 1, 2020 at 8:23:33 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/1/20 6:52 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 8:15:30 PM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 8/31/20 6:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture (Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued. You can view some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need to replace the whole unit. If I do need a full replacement, the basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling. Do I need to cut a whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ? or can the whole unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.

On second thought, the water leaking around the stem on the
outside might indicate the leak is farther back. Sealing the valve at
the hand wheel would just stop the water there and ice could form
inside the valve.

There is no seal at the hand wheel, the valve is near the far end.


I think your second reference mentioned the existing valve used a
standard size 0 (not oh) washer. Those are available from Amazon.

If it's leaking at the hand wheel, it's not the washer. That would cause
a leak out the spigot. It would be the packing or whatever they used
to seal around the stem that's the problem. Many of these fail from leaving
a hose attached with it filled with water. It freezes and then bad things
happen.

I was thinking he could remove the hand wheel and the nut.

AFAIK, the only thing at the hand wheel is the hand wheel and the hand wheel
nut on the end of an 18" stem. I'm not sure how they come apart.


That
would get him to the seal or packing. Then wrap the compression rope
Mickey found around the stem.
https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Woodford-No-11-Anti-Siphon-Faucet-Repair-116-DJFs.jpg
There's a small chance he could get by without removing the hand
wheel depending on the length of the stem.

If there is no seal there, it will leak when turned on. There is water
pressure from the valve to the end of the faucet seal.

Again, the faucet seal is not at the end where the handle is. It's near
the far end, ~16" away, inside, which is why it is freeze proof.


And the handle seal is at the end of the shaft near the handle. With a
bad seal there, water leaks around the shaft if the faucet is turned on.
The water going to the faucet outlet surrounds the shaft between the
handle and the valve.

On 9/5/2020 4:29 AM, Hawk wrote:
On 9/4/2020 11:41 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 23:22:10 -0400, Hawk wrote:

On 9/4/2020 12:01 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/4/2020 2:37 AM, Hawk wrote:
On 9/3/2020 11:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture
(Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that
they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued.Â* You can view
some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in
the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need
to replace the whole unit.Â* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.Â* Do I need to cut a
whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ?Â* or can the whole
unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.


http://www.quarter-ball.com/download/FP_Sillcock.pdf



That has 2 seals, a rubber packing #6 and an o-ring #25.

So why replace it if you can easily fix it.

If he can easily fix it, he wouldn't be in here asking what to do. Ball
valve sillcocks have less internal parts that will deteriorate. They are
superior to the gate valve.
Â*Â* But they are USELESS as a "frost free hydrant" - which is what the
OP has. They also MUST have the hose removed before freeze-up in order
to be "Freeze Proof"Â* (don't ask how I found out - - - ) Ball valves
also have the problem that they are NOT repairable when (not if) they
eventually fail.

I've never seen a BV fail if used frequently since the only thing to
cause such is usually lack of use and rust buildup.

I have had a few simple ball valves leak, but don't have frost free ball
valves. Ball valves may be better than 30 yo washer valves, but it might
take a couple decades to be sure.

On 9/4/2020 8:46 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 23:22:10 -0400, Hawk wrote:

On 9/4/2020 12:01 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/4/2020 2:37 AM, Hawk wrote:
On 9/3/2020 11:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 9/1/2020 4:53 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 11:10:13 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
On 8/31/2020 7:08 PM, wrote:
I have a sillcock that is leaking. looked up the manufacture
(Nibco), they provided a listing of all outdated sillcocks that
they use to manufacture, but are now discontinued.Â* You can view
some images he https://ibb.co/PwL8LCN

Its a frost proof version that has the working valve ~12" back in
the house, but it looks like it leaking around the hand-wheel.

Can find a repair kit and just replace some gaskets or do I need
to replace the whole unit.Â* If I do need a full replacement, the
basement has a finished w/drywall ceiling.Â* Do I need to cut a
whole in the ceiling to get to the connection ?Â* or can the whole
unit be changed from the outside ?

You can see the historical document he
http://www.nibco.com/WorkArea/Downlo...t.aspx?id=7414

Scroll down the version w/Tulip handle.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.


I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.


Exactly my thought.


http://www.quarter-ball.com/download/FP_Sillcock.pdf



That has 2 seals, a rubber packing #6 and an o-ring #25.

So why replace it if you can easily fix it.

If he can easily fix it, he wouldn't be in here asking what to do. Ball
valve sillcocks have less internal parts that will deteriorate. They are
superior to the gate valve.
Looked at the link - yes , might be a good solution BUT he needs to
break trhough the finished basement ceiling to install it. IF he can
fix what is therer he doesn't need to fo that.


It is possible he could just unscrew the current valve from the interior
piping and replace it without cutting drywall, but that depends on the
piping it screws into being very solid.