Have you noticed that extension cords are much harder to use than 30
years ago. It used to be easy to plug something in and pull it out of
the triple end, but now it's hard. How come.

It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?

Also hard to make your own mediumc weight ext. cords. They sell plugs,
but not real small ones like there used to be, but iirc really hard to
get parts are the triple endings. Also no more of the easy-on plugs or
triple endings, where you lift a lever, push the wire in, and push down
the lever? Why?

Also no more of the narrow plugs, where you could get 3 stacked side by
side in less than 2 inches, or the "cube taps" that took plugs like
that. Why?

On 11/12/19 9:31 PM, micky wrote:
Have you noticed that extension cords are much harder to use than 30
years ago. It used to be easy to plug something in and pull it out of
the triple end, but now it's hard. How come.

It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?

Also hard to make your own mediumc weight ext. cords. They sell plugs,
but not real small ones like there used to be, but iirc really hard to
get parts are the triple endings. Also no more of the easy-on plugs or
triple endings, where you lift a lever, push the wire in, and push down
the lever? Why?

Also no more of the narrow plugs, where you could get 3 stacked side by
side in less than 2 inches, or the "cube taps" that took plugs like
that. Why?

Lawyers or the fear of ? Be thankful the NEC or whoever
doesn't require
gfci on all extension cords.

On Tue, 12 Nov 2019 22:06:21 -0600, Dean Hoffman wrote:

Be thankful the NEC or whoever doesn't
require gfci on all extension cords.

Also, both ends should have lots of different coloured LEDs'. At the plug
end, green or red to say if the outlet is okay, and at the socket end green
or red to say if the cord was properly manufactured. You can never be too
careful.

In Mike_Duffy writes:

On Tue, 12 Nov 2019 22:06:21 -0600, Dean Hoffman wrote:

Be thankful the NEC or whoever doesn't
require gfci on all extension cords.

Also, both ends should have lots of different coloured LEDs'. At the plug
end, green or red to say if the outlet is okay, and at the socket end green
or red to say if the cord was properly manufactured. You can never be too
careful.

And, of course, both electrial and thermal fuses.



--
__________________________________________________ ___
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key

[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

On Tue, 12 Nov 2019 22:31:19 -0500, micky
wrote:

Have you noticed that extension cords are much harder to use than 30
years ago. It used to be easy to plug something in and pull it out of
the triple end, but now it's hard. How come.

It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?

Also hard to make your own mediumc weight ext. cords. They sell plugs,
but not real small ones like there used to be, but iirc really hard to
get parts are the triple endings. Also no more of the easy-on plugs or
triple endings, where you lift a lever, push the wire in, and push down
the lever? Why?

Also no more of the narrow plugs, where you could get 3 stacked side by
side in less than 2 inches, or the "cube taps" that took plugs like
that. Why?

You can't really blame NFPA (the NEC) for that one. U/L hates
replacement plugs that they can burn up, that they can pull the wire
out of or plugs with exposed parts and they won't list them. Listed
plugs you buy are going to be dead front with pretty good cord
retention and clamping plate terminal designs. You can't get that in
the same footprint as a molded plug.

I am still not sure why you can't find a good 14 or 12ga cordset with
molded plugs on each end. The fact that most get sold to commercial
users drives the need for junior hard service cord that is water and
oil resistant with a pretty tough jacket. (Damaged cords can get you a
fine from OSHA on a job site). They will be fat cords but 12 and 14
gauge wire is pretty big itself, even in a Romex that is not listed
for hard service.
You might find wimpy cordsets at Harbor Fright but they may not be
listed and you are getting what you pay for.
I would get a cord reel and learn to live with good cords.

On Tue, 12 Nov 2019 22:31:19 -0500, micky
wrote:

Have you noticed that extension cords are much harder to use than 30
years ago. It used to be easy to plug something in and pull it out of
the triple end, but now it's hard. How come.

So they don'y accidently fall out and they don't arc and overheat

It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?

Because long cords have more voltage drop when they are lighter.

Also hard to make your own mediumc weight ext. cords. They sell plugs,
but not real small ones like there used to be, but iirc really hard to
get parts are the triple endings. Also no more of the easy-on plugs or
triple endings, where you lift a lever, push the wire in, and push down
the lever? Why?

Because they are "unsafe"

Also no more of the narrow plugs, where you could get 3 stacked side by
side in less than 2 inches, or the "cube taps" that took plugs like
that. Why?
See above

On 11/12/19 10:31 PM, micky wrote:
It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?


Ever hear of Amazon, Lefty?


16 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/50-Black-Ex.../dp/B06ZZ4JHS9


14 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/Otimo-Outdo.../dp/B06XCV434H

On Wednesday, November 13, 2019 at 6:51:27 AM UTC-5, Jeff B. Ezos wrote:
On 11/12/19 10:31 PM, micky wrote:
It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?


Ever hear of Amazon, Lefty?


16 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/50-Black-Ex.../dp/B06ZZ4JHS9


14 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/Otimo-Outdo.../dp/B06XCV434H

That's what I was thinking. He must be looking for ext cords at the
supermarket or something. 14 gauge only 12 ft? WTF?

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Nov 2019 06:51:22 -0500, "Jeff B. Ezos"
wrote:

On 11/12/19 10:31 PM, micky wrote:
It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?


Ever hear of Amazon, Lefty?

Please, if yo're going to be sarcastic, you should read my posts better.
Your second choice is heavy duty and I said I want medium weight.

And your first choice is 3 wire, round cable. Still heavy weight in my
opinion. I want medium weight. Lamp cord or even lamp cord with
slightly thicker insulation which is what the last 16' foot extension
cord I got had. And that I got on Amazon.

16 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/50-Black-Ex.../dp/B06ZZ4JHS9


14 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/Otimo-Outdo.../dp/B06XCV434H

But thank you anyhow for the suggestions.

On Wed, 13 Nov 2019 04:40:02 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, November 13, 2019 at 6:51:27 AM UTC-5, Jeff B. Ezos wrote:
On 11/12/19 10:31 PM, micky wrote:
It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?


Ever hear of Amazon, Lefty?


16 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/50-Black-Ex.../dp/B06ZZ4JHS9


14 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/Otimo-Outdo.../dp/B06XCV434H

That's what I was thinking. He must be looking for ext cords at the
supermarket or something. 14 gauge only 12 ft? WTF?

That sounds like the "air conditioner" cords, basically big zip cords
and usually not "wet" rated. You can certainly find contractor grade
cords up to 100' at Home Depot, Lowes or Ace.
They use SJOT (or similar) cord stock with molded caps.
I also see them in the ubiquitous Harbor Fright fliers cheaper but my
guess this is an unlisted piece of Asian crap with god knows what kind
of cord or caps.

On Wednesday, November 13, 2019 at 1:29:14 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Nov 2019 06:51:22 -0500, "Jeff B. Ezos"
wrote:

On 11/12/19 10:31 PM, micky wrote:
It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?


Ever hear of Amazon, Lefty?

Please, if yo're going to be sarcastic, you should read my posts better.
Your second choice is heavy duty and I said I want medium weight.

And your first choice is 3 wire, round cable. Still heavy weight in my
opinion. I want medium weight. Lamp cord or even lamp cord with
slightly thicker insulation which is what the last 16' foot extension
cord I got had. And that I got on Amazon.

16 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/50-Black-Ex.../dp/B06ZZ4JHS9


14 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/Otimo-Outdo.../dp/B06XCV434H

But thank you anyhow for the suggestions.

16 gauge, 100 ft? WTF I guess it's OK for some Xmas lights, but the
typical Democrat would try to run an air compressor on it. And I sure
wouldn't call that medium weight.

On Wed, 13 Nov 2019 13:29:05 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Nov 2019 06:51:22 -0500, "Jeff B. Ezos"
wrote:

On 11/12/19 10:31 PM, micky wrote:
It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?


Ever hear of Amazon, Lefty?

Please, if yo're going to be sarcastic, you should read my posts better.
Your second choice is heavy duty and I said I want medium weight.

And your first choice is 3 wire, round cable. Still heavy weight in my
opinion. I want medium weight. Lamp cord or even lamp cord with
slightly thicker insulation which is what the last 16' foot extension
cord I got had. And that I got on Amazon.

16 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/50-Black-Ex.../dp/B06ZZ4JHS9


14 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/Otimo-Outdo.../dp/B06XCV434H

But thank you anyhow for the suggestions.
What do you want to connect to this 2 wire "speaker cable" cord????
Hopefully nothing that draws more than about 60 - 100 watts of power
and definitely nothing that should be grounded - - - -

In Clare Snyder writes:

But thank you anyhow for the suggestions.
What do you want to connect to this 2 wire "speaker cable" cord????
Hopefully nothing that draws more than about 60 - 100 watts of power
and definitely nothing that should be grounded - - - -

I've actually got a real use for even an... 18 gauge 100 foot
cord. Namely a Battery Tender brand name Battery Tender
to reach my car outside the home.

(I'm actually using a series of 14 gauge)

It pumps out 3 amps at 12V, takes in about 80 watts...

(The newer ones are a bit more efficient 'cuz California)



--
__________________________________________________ ___
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key

[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

On Wed, 13 Nov 2019 13:38:57 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 13 Nov 2019 04:40:02 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, November 13, 2019 at 6:51:27 AM UTC-5, Jeff B. Ezos wrote:
On 11/12/19 10:31 PM, micky wrote:
It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?


Ever hear of Amazon, Lefty?


16 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/50-Black-Ex.../dp/B06ZZ4JHS9


14 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/Otimo-Outdo.../dp/B06XCV434H

That's what I was thinking. He must be looking for ext cords at the
supermarket or something. 14 gauge only 12 ft? WTF?

That sounds like the "air conditioner" cords, basically big zip cords
and usually not "wet" rated. You can certainly find contractor grade
cords up to 100' at Home Depot, Lowes or Ace.
They use SJOT (or similar) cord stock with molded caps.
I also see them in the ubiquitous Harbor Fright fliers cheaper but my
guess this is an unlisted piece of Asian crap with god knows what kind
of cord or caps.
Actually some of the BEST extension cords I have seen - and at very
reasonable prices, were at Princess Auto here in Canada - our
"equivalent" to "Harbour Fright". They have CSA approval good thick
and durable insulation that remains reasonablyflexible in the cold
(important up here where it's been down to -17 already this year) and
with connectors that stay connected and don't heat up under rated
load.
An example is a 30 meter (100 ft) 14/3 single end contractor grade
cord flexible to -40 for $40 Canadian. Pretty hard to beat the price.

Also a 15 meter 12/3 with triple outlet - same spec, also for $40.00
Canadian.

They also have 50 ft 30 amp generatoe cords for $130 - Regular price
is $180 - that's 240 volt (4 wire) with twist-lock.

What Mikey seems to be looking for is a "lampcord" - and why he would
ever need anything more than 12 feet is a bit of a mystery.

On Wed, 13 Nov 2019 22:24:40 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein
wrote:

In Clare Snyder writes:

But thank you anyhow for the suggestions.
What do you want to connect to this 2 wire "speaker cable" cord????
Hopefully nothing that draws more than about 60 - 100 watts of power
and definitely nothing that should be grounded - - - -

I've actually got a real use for even an... 18 gauge 100 foot
cord. Namely a Battery Tender brand name Battery Tender
to reach my car outside the home.

(I'm actually using a series of 14 gauge)

It pumps out 3 amps at 12V, takes in about 80 watts...

(The newer ones are a bit more efficient 'cuz California)



Car outdoors? Put a solar tender on it -around here the chippies would
finish off the cord

In Clare Snyder writes:

I've actually got a real use for even an... 18 gauge 100 foot
cord. Namely a Battery Tender brand name Battery Tender
to reach my car outside the home.

(I'm actually using a series of 14 gauge)

It pumps out 3 amps at 12V, takes in about 80 watts...

Car outdoors? Put a solar tender on it -around here the chippies would
finish off the cord

nah, not a "leave it for weeks" deal. Just an overnight or so
recharge it after, well, umm, someone... someone... left the
overhead lights on...


--
__________________________________________________ ___
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key

[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:34:06 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein
wrote:

In Clare Snyder writes:

I've actually got a real use for even an... 18 gauge 100 foot
cord. Namely a Battery Tender brand name Battery Tender
to reach my car outside the home.

(I'm actually using a series of 14 gauge)

It pumps out 3 amps at 12V, takes in about 80 watts...

Car outdoors? Put a solar tender on it -around here the chippies would
finish off the cord

nah, not a "leave it for weeks" deal. Just an overnight or so
recharge it after, well, umm, someone... someone... left the
overhead lights on...

Yup you are right, you need a real charger. I doubt you will find an
18 gauge cord tho unless you set the way back machine to some time
before the 80s when U/L stopped listing 18 gauge cordsets with
receptacles on them. The smallest listed extension cord you can get
is 16 gauge.

On Wed, 13 Nov 2019 10:51:33 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, November 13, 2019 at 1:29:14 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Nov 2019 06:51:22 -0500, "Jeff B. Ezos"
wrote:

On 11/12/19 10:31 PM, micky wrote:
It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?


Ever hear of Amazon, Lefty?

Please, if yo're going to be sarcastic, you should read my posts better.
Your second choice is heavy duty and I said I want medium weight.

And your first choice is 3 wire, round cable. Still heavy weight in my
opinion. I want medium weight. Lamp cord or even lamp cord with
slightly thicker insulation which is what the last 16' foot extension
cord I got had. And that I got on Amazon.

16 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/50-Black-Ex.../dp/B06ZZ4JHS9


14 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/Otimo-Outdo.../dp/B06XCV434H

But thank you anyhow for the suggestions.

16 gauge, 100 ft? WTF I guess it's OK for some Xmas lights, but the
typical Democrat would try to run an air compressor on it. And I sure
wouldn't call that medium weight.


Those 16 gauge work OK for lawn equipment with "universal" (brush)
motors in them. It just runs a little slower but it won't burn up like
an induction motor running on low voltage. I have a few around here
but any cord I am serious about is at least 14 ga, I have some 12ga
and one that is real long is 10ga. I don't screw with it unless I am
trying to run a lot of big stuff at 150'.

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Nov 2019 20:25:42 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Wed, 13 Nov 2019 22:24:40 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein
wrote:

In Clare Snyder writes:

But thank you anyhow for the suggestions.
What do you want to connect to this 2 wire "speaker cable" cord????
Hopefully nothing that draws more than about 60 - 100 watts of power
and definitely nothing that should be grounded - - - -

I've actually got a real use for even an... 18 gauge 100 foot
cord. Namely a Battery Tender brand name Battery Tender
to reach my car outside the home.

(I'm actually using a series of 14 gauge)

It pumps out 3 amps at 12V, takes in about 80 watts...

(The newer ones are a bit more efficient 'cuz California)



Car outdoors? Put a solar tender on it -around here the chippies would
finish off the cord

Solar can work very well. I must have had a slow leak somewhere 20
years ago but once I put a solar cell on the dash, plugged into cig.
lighter, no more problems.

Back in 1967-68 it was a cold chicago winter. Used a 1-amp battery
charger all winter, and the car always started I kept the charger
inside the hood with only the cord coming out the grill, to make it easy
to plug in. Car was 6 volts but I had the charger set on 12 volts, and
it had a circuit breaker in it that looked like a clear little Xmas tree
light. It would trip after about 15 seconds and reset after 5, so that
was 3x a minute, 180 times an hour, 4500 times a day, 100 days = 450,000
times. Later I had to replace the selenium rectifier, but it still
works fine 50 years later.

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Nov 2019 21:30:58 -0500,
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:34:06 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein
wrote:

In Clare Snyder writes:

I've actually got a real use for even an... 18 gauge 100 foot
cord. Namely a Battery Tender brand name Battery Tender
to reach my car outside the home.

(I'm actually using a series of 14 gauge)

It pumps out 3 amps at 12V, takes in about 80 watts...

Car outdoors? Put a solar tender on it -around here the chippies would
finish off the cord

nah, not a "leave it for weeks" deal. Just an overnight or so
recharge it after, well, umm, someone... someone... left the
overhead lights on...

Yup you are right, you need a real charger. I doubt you will find an
18 gauge cord tho unless you set the way back machine to some time
before the 80s when U/L stopped listing 18 gauge cordsets with
receptacles on them. The smallest listed extension cord you can get
is 16 gauge.


BTW, I was never looking for a 100' lamp cord extension cord, just more
than 16'. Outside I use iirc 14 gauge. BTW, I leave it lying in the
grass all year, in the rain and snow, and though the GFI works, it's
only tripped once or twice in 20 years.

On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 14:27:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Nov 2019 21:30:58 -0500,
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:34:06 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein
wrote:

In Clare Snyder writes:

I've actually got a real use for even an... 18 gauge 100 foot
cord. Namely a Battery Tender brand name Battery Tender
to reach my car outside the home.

(I'm actually using a series of 14 gauge)

It pumps out 3 amps at 12V, takes in about 80 watts...

Car outdoors? Put a solar tender on it -around here the chippies would
finish off the cord

nah, not a "leave it for weeks" deal. Just an overnight or so
recharge it after, well, umm, someone... someone... left the
overhead lights on...

Yup you are right, you need a real charger. I doubt you will find an
18 gauge cord tho unless you set the way back machine to some time
before the 80s when U/L stopped listing 18 gauge cordsets with
receptacles on them. The smallest listed extension cord you can get
is 16 gauge.


BTW, I was never looking for a 100' lamp cord extension cord, just more
than 16'. Outside I use iirc 14 gauge. BTW, I leave it lying in the
grass all year, in the rain and snow, and though the GFI works, it's
only tripped once or twice in 20 years.

I have seen 25' 2 wire (zip lead) 16ga cords with the triplex
receptacle. I have some in my Christmas light stuff. You can always
buy the plug cap, receptacle and cord to make up anything you want.

trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, November 13, 2019 at 1:29:14 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Nov 2019 06:51:22 -0500, "Jeff B. Ezos"
wrote:

On 11/12/19 10:31 PM, micky wrote:
It's also hard to get medium weight, 14 gauge, extension cords more than
12 feet long. More than 16' impossible. Have to buy heavy duty. Why?


Ever hear of Amazon, Lefty?

Please, if yo're going to be sarcastic, you should read my posts better.
Your second choice is heavy duty and I said I want medium weight.

And your first choice is 3 wire, round cable. Still heavy weight in my
opinion. I want medium weight. Lamp cord or even lamp cord with
slightly thicker insulation which is what the last 16' foot extension
cord I got had. And that I got on Amazon.

16 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/50-Black-Ex.../dp/B06ZZ4JHS9


14 gauge 100'

https://smile.amazon.com/Otimo-Outdo.../dp/B06XCV434H

But thank you anyhow for the suggestions.

16 gauge, 100 ft? WTF I guess it's OK for some Xmas lights, but the
typical Democrat would try to run an air compressor on it. And I sure
wouldn't call that medium weight.

I have almost 300 feet of extension to a Xmas tree light on property. 3
extensions mostly 16 gauge. I bought a nice 100 foot 12 gauge extension at
my hardware store for $25, but I suspect it was marked wrong LOL.

Greg

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 14 Nov 2019 17:44:29 -0500,
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 14:27:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Nov 2019 21:30:58 -0500,
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:34:06 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein
wrote:

In Clare Snyder writes:

I've actually got a real use for even an... 18 gauge 100 foot
cord. Namely a Battery Tender brand name Battery Tender
to reach my car outside the home.

(I'm actually using a series of 14 gauge)

It pumps out 3 amps at 12V, takes in about 80 watts...

Car outdoors? Put a solar tender on it -around here the chippies would
finish off the cord

nah, not a "leave it for weeks" deal. Just an overnight or so
recharge it after, well, umm, someone... someone... left the
overhead lights on...

Yup you are right, you need a real charger. I doubt you will find an
18 gauge cord tho unless you set the way back machine to some time
before the 80s when U/L stopped listing 18 gauge cordsets with
receptacles on them. The smallest listed extension cord you can get
is 16 gauge.


BTW, I was never looking for a 100' lamp cord extension cord, just more
than 16'. Outside I use iirc 14 gauge. BTW, I leave it lying in the
grass all year, in the rain and snow, and though the GFI works, it's
only tripped once or twice in 20 years.

I have seen 25' 2 wire (zip lead) 16ga cords with the triplex
receptacle. I have some in my Christmas light stuff. You can always
buy the plug cap, receptacle and cord to make up anything you want.

I looked for the receptacle at HDepot and I had a choice of one outlet
or a very big one for 3. At least in the store. Once I was going to
mail order, I did get 16' from Amazon, but they didn't have anything
longer than that.

On 11/15/19 8:12 AM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 14 Nov 2019 17:44:29 -0500,
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 14:27:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Nov 2019 21:30:58 -0500,
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:34:06 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein
wrote:

In Clare Snyder writes:

I've actually got a real use for even an... 18 gauge 100 foot
cord. Namely a Battery Tender brand name Battery Tender
to reach my car outside the home.

(I'm actually using a series of 14 gauge)

It pumps out 3 amps at 12V, takes in about 80 watts...

Car outdoors? Put a solar tender on it -around here the chippies would
finish off the cord

nah, not a "leave it for weeks" deal. Just an overnight or so
recharge it after, well, umm, someone... someone... left the
overhead lights on...

Yup you are right, you need a real charger. I doubt you will find an
18 gauge cord tho unless you set the way back machine to some time
before the 80s when U/L stopped listing 18 gauge cordsets with
receptacles on them. The smallest listed extension cord you can get
is 16 gauge.


BTW, I was never looking for a 100' lamp cord extension cord, just more
than 16'. Outside I use iirc 14 gauge. BTW, I leave it lying in the
grass all year, in the rain and snow, and though the GFI works, it's
only tripped once or twice in 20 years.

I have seen 25' 2 wire (zip lead) 16ga cords with the triplex
receptacle. I have some in my Christmas light stuff. You can always
buy the plug cap, receptacle and cord to make up anything you want.

I looked for the receptacle at HDepot and I had a choice of one outlet
or a very big one for 3. At least in the store. Once I was going to
mail order, I did get 16' from Amazon, but they didn't have anything
longer than that.

Something like this maybe?
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lighting-and-electrical/extension-cords-and-power-strips/extension-cords/31837

On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 17:10:20 -0600, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 11/15/19 8:12 AM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 14 Nov 2019 17:44:29 -0500,
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 14:27:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Nov 2019 21:30:58 -0500,
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:34:06 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein
wrote:

In Clare Snyder writes:

I've actually got a real use for even an... 18 gauge 100 foot
cord. Namely a Battery Tender brand name Battery Tender
to reach my car outside the home.

(I'm actually using a series of 14 gauge)

It pumps out 3 amps at 12V, takes in about 80 watts...

Car outdoors? Put a solar tender on it -around here the chippies would
finish off the cord

nah, not a "leave it for weeks" deal. Just an overnight or so
recharge it after, well, umm, someone... someone... left the
overhead lights on...

Yup you are right, you need a real charger. I doubt you will find an
18 gauge cord tho unless you set the way back machine to some time
before the 80s when U/L stopped listing 18 gauge cordsets with
receptacles on them. The smallest listed extension cord you can get
is 16 gauge.


BTW, I was never looking for a 100' lamp cord extension cord, just more
than 16'. Outside I use iirc 14 gauge. BTW, I leave it lying in the
grass all year, in the rain and snow, and though the GFI works, it's
only tripped once or twice in 20 years.

I have seen 25' 2 wire (zip lead) 16ga cords with the triplex
receptacle. I have some in my Christmas light stuff. You can always
buy the plug cap, receptacle and cord to make up anything you want.

I looked for the receptacle at HDepot and I had a choice of one outlet
or a very big one for 3. At least in the store. Once I was going to
mail order, I did get 16' from Amazon, but they didn't have anything
longer than that.

Something like this maybe?
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lighting-and-electrical/extension-cords-and-power-strips/extension-cords/31837

He wants something more like this

https://www.amazon.com/Extension-3-O.../dp/B07BRBXJGQ

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 15 Nov 2019 19:57:29 -0500,
wrote:

On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 17:10:20 -0600, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 11/15/19 8:12 AM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 14 Nov 2019 17:44:29 -0500,
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 14:27:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Nov 2019 21:30:58 -0500,
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:34:06 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein
wrote:

In Clare Snyder writes:

I've actually got a real use for even an... 18 gauge 100 foot
cord. Namely a Battery Tender brand name Battery Tender
to reach my car outside the home.

(I'm actually using a series of 14 gauge)

It pumps out 3 amps at 12V, takes in about 80 watts...

Car outdoors? Put a solar tender on it -around here the chippies would
finish off the cord

nah, not a "leave it for weeks" deal. Just an overnight or so
recharge it after, well, umm, someone... someone... left the
overhead lights on...

Yup you are right, you need a real charger. I doubt you will find an
18 gauge cord tho unless you set the way back machine to some time
before the 80s when U/L stopped listing 18 gauge cordsets with
receptacles on them. The smallest listed extension cord you can get
is 16 gauge.


BTW, I was never looking for a 100' lamp cord extension cord, just more
than 16'. Outside I use iirc 14 gauge. BTW, I leave it lying in the
grass all year, in the rain and snow, and though the GFI works, it's
only tripped once or twice in 20 years.

I have seen 25' 2 wire (zip lead) 16ga cords with the triplex
receptacle. I have some in my Christmas light stuff. You can always
buy the plug cap, receptacle and cord to make up anything you want.

I looked for the receptacle at HDepot and I had a choice of one outlet
or a very big one for 3. At least in the store. Once I was going to
mail order, I did get 16' from Amazon, but they didn't have anything
longer than that.

Something like this maybe?
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lighting-and-electrical/extension-cords-and-power-strips/extension-cords/31837

Nope.

He wants something more like this

https://www.amazon.com/Extension-3-O.../dp/B07BRBXJGQ

That's good. I don't remember how I missed it. Maybe because it is
3-conductor which I don't need, but much better than nothing. I found
it in black too. I'm going to get one.

On 11/14/2019 1:23 PM, micky wrote:
Solar can work very well. I must have had a slow leak somewhere 20
years ago but once I put a solar cell on the dash, plugged into cig.
lighter, no more problems.

Could you elaborate on that solar cell setup? Where can I buy one? I'm
having a slow leak problem that no mechanic can seem to diagnose. After
about a year, the battery won't crank after sitting up overnight. I
installed a battery cutoff switch to disconnect the battery overnight so
that my car can always start the next day. But I like your solar
solution better if it can keep my battery charged. Thanks.

battery cutoff switch
https://i.imgur.com/jwlYdA2.jpg

On Tuesday, November 19, 2019 at 4:54:33 AM UTC-5, M. L. wrote:
On 11/14/2019 1:23 PM, micky wrote:
Solar can work very well. I must have had a slow leak somewhere 20
years ago but once I put a solar cell on the dash, plugged into cig.
lighter, no more problems.

Could you elaborate on that solar cell setup? Where can I buy one? I'm
having a slow leak problem that no mechanic can seem to diagnose. After
about a year, the battery won't crank after sitting up overnight. I
installed a battery cutoff switch to disconnect the battery overnight so
that my car can always start the next day. But I like your solar
solution better if it can keep my battery charged. Thanks.

battery cutoff switch
https://i.imgur.com/jwlYdA2.jpg

Have you tried googling for solar car charger?

To fix the actual problem, have you used an ammeter on each fuse circuit to
find out which one is drawing? I'd hook the meter up so that you can read
it with the car closed, locked, etc. Then leave it for half an hour and
see what it reads. Modern cars have alarms and such, so you could see
maybe 50ma or so draw as normal. Something is drawing a lot more than that
to run the battery down overnight. A competent mechanic should be able to
find the problem circuit, then you have to see what all is on it and take
things off it, to the extent possible to further isolate.

On 11/19/2019 02:54 AM, M. L. wrote:
On 11/14/2019 1:23 PM, micky wrote:
Solar can work very well. I must have had a slow leak somewhere 20
years ago but once I put a solar cell on the dash, plugged into cig.
lighter, no more problems.

Could you elaborate on that solar cell setup? Where can I buy one? I'm
having a slow leak problem that no mechanic can seem to diagnose. After
about a year, the battery won't crank after sitting up overnight. I
installed a battery cutoff switch to disconnect the battery overnight so
that my car can always start the next day. But I like your solar
solution better if it can keep my battery charged. Thanks.

battery cutoff switch
https://i.imgur.com/jwlYdA2.jpg


The sun doesn't shine at night. I'm not trying to be a smart ass. The
solar trickle chargers usually put out 5 to 10 watts. Assuming you have
reliable sunlight they are useful if your car sits for days. Many new
cars have onboard electronics that pull a few mills all the time and the
solar charger offsets those.

If your battery is draining down overnight you have a problem a solar
charger won't fix.

On 2019-11-19, M. L. wrote:
Could you elaborate on that solar cell setup? Where can I buy one?

This one will keep a charged battery topped up, but does not put out
enough to charge a flat battery:

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-wat...ger-62449.html

I use one on a car that sits a lot where there is no power outlet to
run a conventional battery tender and it works well.

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Blake (Posts from Google Groups killfiled due to excess spam.)

NSA sedition and treason -- http://www.DeathToNSAthugs.com
Don't talk to cops! -- http://www.DontTalkToCops.com
Badges don't grant extra rights -- http://www.CopBlock.org
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Tuesday, November 19, 2019 at 9:44:49 AM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 11/19/2019 02:54 AM, M. L. wrote:
On 11/14/2019 1:23 PM, micky wrote:
Solar can work very well. I must have had a slow leak somewhere 20
years ago but once I put a solar cell on the dash, plugged into cig.
lighter, no more problems.

Could you elaborate on that solar cell setup? Where can I buy one? I'm
having a slow leak problem that no mechanic can seem to diagnose. After
about a year, the battery won't crank after sitting up overnight. I
installed a battery cutoff switch to disconnect the battery overnight so
that my car can always start the next day. But I like your solar
solution better if it can keep my battery charged. Thanks.

battery cutoff switch
https://i.imgur.com/jwlYdA2.jpg


The sun doesn't shine at night. I'm not trying to be a smart ass. The
solar trickle chargers usually put out 5 to 10 watts. Assuming you have
reliable sunlight they are useful if your car sits for days. Many new
cars have onboard electronics that pull a few mills all the time and the
solar charger offsets those.

If your battery is draining down overnight you have a problem a solar
charger won't fix.


Good point. I totally missed that.

In Roger Blake writes:

On 2019-11-19, M. L. wrote:
Could you elaborate on that solar cell setup? Where can I buy one?

This one will keep a charged battery topped up, but does not put out
enough to charge a flat battery:

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-wat...ger-62449.html

While yes, it will certainly work for "topping up", just a general
note that you should take any of the solar panel output labels
with a great deal of skepticism.

(Not just Harbor Freight).

also, of course, keep in mind that the (what used to be called)
cigarette lighter might, or might not, be cut out when the
car is turned off...


--
__________________________________________________ ___
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key

[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

In article , says...

also, of course, keep in mind that the (what used to be called)
cigarette lighter might, or might not, be cut out when the
car is turned off...





My Toyota Camry and Tacoma both cut off the socket when the car is
turned off. Others may do so also, or not, I don't know.

Any car that drains the battery over night should be relative easy for a
mechanic to find the problem. However, most now are just part replacers
, especially if it is anything electrical.

As mentioned there is no sun at night to use the solar chargers with.

In t Ralph Mowery writes:

My Toyota Camry and Tacoma both cut off the socket when the car is
turned off. Others may do so also, or not, I don't know.

Any car that drains the battery over night should be relative easy for a
mechanic to find the problem. However, most now are just part replacers
, especially if it is anything electrical.

As mentioned there is no sun at night to use the solar chargers with.

True enough, but...

But chances are the battery is just slowly draining out
for 23 hours/day (assuming one hour of driving) and it's
probably taken a week or more (numbers for illustrtion)
for the cumulative effect to deaden it.

So... an extra six hours of daytime charging at a low
trickle rate might very well be enough to keep it in
the safe zone.

(we all do know that diodes and other simple-and-quick
"one way" valves for direct current do allow a bit of
backflow, right? so yes, that solar panel, at night, might
actually be doing some draining...)


--
__________________________________________________ ___
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key

[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

Could you elaborate on that solar cell setup? Where can I buy one?

This one will keep a charged battery topped up, but does not put out
enough to charge a flat battery:

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-wat...ger-62449.html

Thank you for your prompt response. While I'm excited about the prospect
of using a solar panel to maintain a trickle charge, the solar solutions
I've come across so far have problems for my usage:

1.) My cigarette lighter outlet doesn't stay on after the ignition is
turned off, so my only recourse is to permanently connect the solar
panel to the battery posts.

2.) The alligator clips for the battery posts are too obtrusive and
would interfere with my current battery post connectors. There needs to
be a solar trickle charger with better integrated battery connectors.

3.) The instructions to these devices state that in order to prevent
damage to the trickle charger, it's supposed to be disconnected before
starting the car and while driving. So how am I supposed to disconnect
it from the battery before starting the car? Others have said that it
works fine while starting the car.

I use one on a car that sits a lot where there is no power outlet to
run a conventional battery tender and it works well.

In article , says...
e all do know that diodes and other simple-and-quick
"one way" valves for direct current do allow a bit of
backflow, right? so yes, that solar panel, at night, might
actually be doing some draining...)




Any diode worth using will have so little 'backflow' it would take
years to drain a car battery. The battery would self-discharge at a
rate so much larger than the diode would allow that it would be un
noticiable. About like the weight of a fly landing on the car making it
weigh more. Sure it does, but no practicl way of telling the added
weight.

I have a small solar panel I hook to my riding lawn mower in the winter
when it is not used for seveal months. The panel is not even in direct
sum most of the day. The first start of the year , the mower engine
turns over very fast.

On 2019-11-19, M. L. wrote:
1.) My cigarette lighter outlet doesn't stay on after the ignition is
turned off, so my only recourse is to permanently connect the solar
panel to the battery posts.

Likewise, the car I use it on has the cig ligher off when the car is
off. What I do is to connect the alligator clips directly to the
battery terminals. The cord is long enough in my case that I can put the
solar panel inside the windshield.

2.) The alligator clips for the battery posts are too obtrusive and
would interfere with my current battery post connectors. There needs to
be a solar trickle charger with better integrated battery connectors.

You'd probably need to fab something up to fit your requirements.

3.) The instructions to these devices state that in order to prevent
damage to the trickle charger, it's supposed to be disconnected before
starting the car and while driving. So how am I supposed to disconnect
it from the battery before starting the car? Others have said that it
works fine while starting the car.

I just pop the hood and disconnect it.

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Blake (Posts from Google Groups killfiled due to excess spam.)

NSA sedition and treason -- http://www.DeathToNSAthugs.com
Don't talk to cops! -- http://www.DontTalkToCops.com
Badges don't grant extra rights -- http://www.CopBlock.org
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

On 2019-11-19, danny burstein wrote:
While yes, it will certainly work for "topping up", just a general
note that you should take any of the solar panel output labels
with a great deal of skepticism.

It's just to keep a trickle charge on the battery to "float" the charge.
In my case at least it works. The battery used to regularly go flat
before I started using the solar charger, now it's always ready to go.

also, of course, keep in mind that the (what used to be called)
cigarette lighter might, or might not, be cut out when the
car is turned off...

In such cases, including my own, it's a little less convenient since
you need to connect directly to the battery with the supplied alligator
clips.

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Blake (Posts from Google Groups killfiled due to excess spam.)

NSA sedition and treason -- http://www.DeathToNSAthugs.com
Don't talk to cops! -- http://www.DontTalkToCops.com
Badges don't grant extra rights -- http://www.CopBlock.org
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Tuesday, November 19, 2019 at 12:08:13 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...
e all do know that diodes and other simple-and-quick
"one way" valves for direct current do allow a bit of
backflow, right? so yes, that solar panel, at night, might
actually be doing some draining...)




Any diode worth using will have so little 'backflow' it would take
years to drain a car battery.

+1

The solar thing for all practical purposes can only add, not drain.



The battery would self-discharge at a
rate so much larger than the diode would allow that it would be un
noticiable. About like the weight of a fly landing on the car making it
weigh more. Sure it does, but no practicl way of telling the added
weight.

I have a small solar panel I hook to my riding lawn mower in the winter
when it is not used for seveal months. The panel is not even in direct
sum most of the day. The first start of the year , the mower engine
turns over very fast.

The other thing Danny thinks the battery is draining over many days,
while the OP clearly said it happens overnight. I had that happen
with the BMW X5. I spent a lot of time screwing around to find it,
when I should have known where to start. I knew the stupid variable
speed electric fan in front of the radiator didn't work, but the X5
works well enough without it. The other thing, I thought I had heard
a mysterious little noise from the dash when the car was off a couple
times. I should have started with those, instead I pursued the general
case. Turns out the bad variable speed fan has power applied to it
all the time and the failed electronics in it was drawing current
even though the fan wasn't moving. The other problem was a transistor
drive module that controls the HVAC blower speed. That worked, but
it was also flowing current to the blower when it was off. The little
noise must have been the rare occasion when there was enough current
to move the motor just a bit.

It should be possible to find the source of the problem with the OP's
car. You're right, today many alleged mechanics are incompetent.
I have a friend who had a Honda CRV. The AC didn't work, he had
taken it to shop that specializes in AC. They spent hours, told him
they couldn't find the problem, they thought it was an electrical
computer thing, so they took it to another shop that specializes
in that. They also couldn't fix it. I said bring it over here,
let me look at it. I had him put on the AC and I took a look at
the clutch. It wasn't spinning, so I probed it with just a test light.
Voltage at the clutch. I got a hammer, tapped the clutch a few times,
had him try it again. Voila, AC working.

That one is so basic, it boggles the minds how any shop that does AC
work couldn't identify and fix it. He kept the car for another couple
years after that, no more problems with the AC. I did instruct him to
run the AC once a month on moderate days, just to keep things moving.

In trader_4 writes:

Any diode worth using will have so little 'backflow' it would take
years to drain a car battery.

+1

I guess things have improved since my days working the
lab with George Steinmetz...

The other thing Danny thinks the battery is draining over many days,
while the OP clearly said it happens overnight.

My impression was more that it started off (for illustraion)
on Sunday with 100 pct charge. Not driven at all. So Sun eve
it's at 95 pct, Mon morning at 90.

(Using "20 percent" as the cutoff needed for starting)

Driven a bit Monday, so Mon eve 92 pct, Tues morn 85.

Drops down a couple more percent each day.

Finally, the next week.. Mon morning 21 pct, mon eve 23,
Tuesday morning... 18 percent. So... nada...




--
__________________________________________________ ___
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key

[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]