Where do you source circuit breakers that are NOT in typical box stores?
o Carling AA3-B0-24-635-5D1-C (do you have a decoder for that number?)

PG&E has currently cut the power to us in California where this is the 31st
sustained power outage in three years (of more than a day each, generally),
so my generator has been doing triple duty as the backup source of power.

Over time, this 35 amp ganged circuit breaker partially broke inside.
https://i.postimg.cc/ryNkQQvY/breaker03.jpg

It has "Carling Switch" molded on one side:
https://i.postimg.cc/G37D8Jq6/breaker01.jpg

And this barely readable paper label on the other side:
https://i.postimg.cc/vmTTdpdB/breaker02.jpg

The best I can make out from that data are these specs:
Carling Switch Inc.
AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C
FL AMP 35
MAX VOLTS 227 (? hard to tell)
HERTZ 50/60
DELAY 04 (? hard to tell)
TRIP AMPS 43 (? hard to tell)
Mexico 9513 (probably the 13th week in 1995, likely original)

I called Generac's 24/7 live hotline, but they can't give me any more
information than the owners manual, parts diagram, and references
888-GENERAC (888-436-3722) extension 4, extension 2
1-262-544-4811 extension 1, extension 2, extension 4, extension 2

This is the relevant page out of that Generac Owners Manual they sent me:
https://i.postimg.cc/qq326cBh/Generac-Control-Panel-9067-9-16345-Page-19.jpg
o #5, Generac Part Number #74969, 35 Amp Circuit Breaker

Generac suggests these two outfits, who seem to charge astronomical prices:
o $137.07 https://www.jackssmallengines.com/
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/generac-engine-part/g074969
o $233.45 https://www.ordertree.com/ (877) 500-7499 x1
https://www.ordertree.com/catalog/product/view/id/2072452/s/circt-brk-35-x-2-carling-2/

Hence, the basic question of how you source basic electrical parts.

Where do you source circuit breakers that are NOT in typical box stores?
o Carling AA3-B0-24-635-5D1-C (do you have a decoder for that number?)

--
Purposefully unhelpful posts from the usual trolls will be ignored.
(i.e., if there is no response to your post - that means you're a troll)

On 10/27/19 4:08 PM, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote:
[ usual **** deleted ]

This is why you don't buy Generac equipment.

I used to be a service manage at a sales and service tool
store.

People would bring in a Generac for repair.
They would NOT give us service information or sell us parts.

We put them on the "**** you" list.

I bought a Honda 4500 watt generator 30 years ago. The only
service it's required is the battery, the air filter and the
oil.

As a friend of mine's brother-in-law succinctly put it, "Pay
****, get ****."


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

On 10/27/19 4:08 PM, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote:
Carling AA3-B0-24-635-5D1-C

Captain Video decoder wheel:
https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/Carling-HM-CB-A-Series.pdf

Page 37


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

On 10/27/19 5:08 PM, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote:
Where do you source circuit breakers that are NOT in typical box stores?
o Carling AA3-B0-24-635-5D1-C (do you have a decoder for that number?)

PG&E has currently cut the power to us in California where this is the 31st
sustained power outage in three years (of more than a day each, generally),
so my generator has been doing triple duty as the backup source of power.

Over time, this 35 amp ganged circuit breaker partially broke inside.
https://i.postimg.cc/ryNkQQvY/breaker03.jpg

It has "Carling Switch" molded on one side:
https://i.postimg.cc/G37D8Jq6/breaker01.jpg

And this barely readable paper label on the other side:
https://i.postimg.cc/vmTTdpdB/breaker02.jpg

The best I can make out from that data are these specs:
Carling Switch Inc.
AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C
FL AMP 35
MAX VOLTS 227 (? hard to tell)
HERTZ 50/60
DELAY 04 (? hard to tell)
TRIP AMPS 43 (? hard to tell)
Mexico 9513 (probably the 13th week in 1995, likely original)

I called Generac's 24/7 live hotline, but they can't give me any more
information than the owners manual, parts diagram, and references
888-GENERAC (888-436-3722) extension 4, extension 2
1-262-544-4811 extension 1, extension 2, extension 4, extension 2

This is the relevant page out of that Generac Owners Manual they sent me:
https://i.postimg.cc/qq326cBh/Generac-Control-Panel-9067-9-16345-Page-19.jpg
o #5, Generac Part Number #74969, 35 Amp Circuit Breaker

Generac suggests these two outfits, who seem to charge astronomical prices:
o $137.07 https://www.jackssmallengines.com/
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/generac-engine-part/g074969
o $233.45 https://www.ordertree.com/ (877) 500-7499 x1
https://www.ordertree.com/catalog/product/view/id/2072452/s/circt-brk-35-x-2-carling-2/

Hence, the basic question of how you source basic electrical parts.

Where do you source circuit breakers that are NOT in typical box stores?
o Carling AA3-B0-24-635-5D1-C (do you have a decoder for that number?)


Have you tried any of Carlings distributors in CA ?

https://www.carlingtech.com/findarep?location=243

Part # decoder is on page 5 of
https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/de...B-A-Series.pdf

https://www.onlinecomponents.com/car...-16957461.html
says they have 3 in stock in AZ

In article ,
Arlen _G_ Holder wrote:

The best I can make out from that data are these specs:
Carling Switch Inc.
AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C
FL AMP 35
MAX VOLTS 227 (? hard to tell)
HERTZ 50/60
DELAY 04 (? hard to tell)
TRIP AMPS 43 (? hard to tell)
Mexico 9513 (probably the 13th week in 1995, likely original)

Arlen-

Take the old breaker into an Ace Hardware Store. You want something
that has the same mounting and terminals, rated for 35 Amps and at least
240 Volts.

The 43 "TRIP" Amps would be nice, but is not the most important
parameter. Hopefully you do not normally run the generator close to its
limit.

I would not be surprised if Ace had the exact breaker for around $25.

Fred

Please ... go to HD, get a Square D breaker and rig it up. Duct tape if
you have to G

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...35CP/202495818

In article ,
says...

I used to be a service manage at a sales and service tool
store.

People would bring in a Generac for repair.
They would NOT give us service information or sell us parts.




The government should make it a law the companies have to sell to
individuals the repair parts and service manuals if they have them.

Years ago I was with a friend at a boat warehouse picking up some parts.
A man wanted to buy a simple part,but they would not sell it to him as
he was not a dealer. We bought the part for the man and sold it to him
at our cost when he met us outside the warehouse.
Most places would have doubled the price to him.

What really hirts is if a big company buys lots of items at high dollars
and the manufactor goes out of busniness and they will not give or sell
you a manual on the equipment when you buy it.

On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 21:08:05 -0000 (UTC), Arlen _G_ Holder
wrote:

Carling AA3-B0-24-635-5D1-C
Mouser or Newark - in stock for under $30

On 10/27/2019 6:29 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...
I used to be a service manage at a sales and service tool
store.

People would bring in a Generac for repair.
They would NOT give us service information or sell us parts.



The government should make it a law the companies have to sell to
individuals the repair parts and service manuals if they have them.

Years ago I was with a friend at a boat warehouse picking up some parts.
A man wanted to buy a simple part,but they would not sell it to him as
he was not a dealer. We bought the part for the man and sold it to him
at our cost when he met us outside the warehouse.
Most places would have doubled the price to him.

What really hirts is if a big company buys lots of items at high dollars
and the manufactor goes out of busniness and they will not give or sell
you a manual on the equipment when you buy it.


I think Team Amazon is teaching all those "wholesale only" assholes a painful lesson.

On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 18:52:10 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 21:08:05 -0000 (UTC), Arlen _G_ Holder
wrote:

Carling AA3-B0-24-635-5D1-C
Mouser or Newark - in stock for under $30
Make that Mouser. Newark price is WAY higherr and no longer in stock.
Mouser has 10 in the warehouse

On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 19:09:43 -0400, Bod F wrote:

On 10/27/2019 6:29 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...
I used to be a service manage at a sales and service tool
store.

People would bring in a Generac for repair.
They would NOT give us service information or sell us parts.



The government should make it a law the companies have to sell to
individuals the repair parts and service manuals if they have them.

Years ago I was with a friend at a boat warehouse picking up some parts.
A man wanted to buy a simple part,but they would not sell it to him as
he was not a dealer. We bought the part for the man and sold it to him
at our cost when he met us outside the warehouse.
Most places would have doubled the price to him.

What really hirts is if a big company buys lots of items at high dollars
and the manufactor goes out of busniness and they will not give or sell
you a manual on the equipment when you buy it.


I think Team Amazon is teaching all those "wholesale only" assholes a painful lesson.
If you are in ANY business, technically you can buy wholesale. I can't
buy anything that requires a gas fitter's licence or a refrigeration
licence (actually I can from a few wholesalers) but if I show my
businesscard I can buy pretty much anything else I might need through
my company. Automotive, small engine, electrical, plumbing,
electronics, building supplies - just about anything partly duer to
the structure / nature of my business and the way it is stated on my
card.

On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 17:44:02 -0400, "Retired wrote:

Have you tried any of Carlings distributors in CA ?
https://www.carlingtech.com/findarep?location=243

Thanks for posting with purposefully helpful intent, where, since it's
Sunday, I can call the nearest Carling folks on Monday morning.

I did bring it (and missing fuses) to stores that are open on weekends, but
Ace & Home Depot did not carry it (I didn't check Walmart or Lowes yet but
the Home Depot guys said to give up on the box stores because of the
specific shape of both the fuses and the shape of the circuit breaker):
o Shape of fuses (600V, 2A)
https://i.postimg.cc/MGb704vW/buss-sbs-2-600-V-fast-acting-fuse.jpg
o Shape of circuit breaker (35 Amp, 2 pole)
https://i.postimg.cc/T2FMp20V/breaker05.jpg

Where Generac seems to use "unique dimension" parts, kind of sort of on
purpose if this SBS fuse description is any indication of that observation:
https://www.ferrazfuses.com/cms_admin/fckeditor/editor/filemanager/connectors/php/bin/Midget%20Gen%20Pur%20SBS.pdf
Where half the "highlights" are that they have "unique dimensions!".

I guess "unique dimension" as a "highlight" is a wholesaler's dream!
o Buss SBS-2 (green label) "fast acting ferrule fuses" 600 Volt, 2 Amp
o https://bussfuses.net/ 800.739.9145 or 918.665.6888

These SBS-2 fuses are shown on page 17 of this transfer switch OM:
o #35 (Quantity 4 x two transfer switches = 8), FUSE 2A 600V PN: 73590
https://www.generator-parts.com/manuals/home-standby/078590.pdf

The problem is that neither Ace nor Home Depot carries them:
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BBS-2-600V-Midget-Acting/dp/B00BHWLZO0

Where I admit I had to look up why it's a "ferrule" fuse:
o Ferrule is a word for a simple metal band or cap of great versatility.
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/ferrule

I called them, where it's a big company, Eaton, under Cooper Industries,
where the Bussman Fuses page is here 855-287-7626
http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/bussmann.html

Anyway, the fuses aren't my problem, but they do highlight the fact that
Generac uses parts whose "highlight" are that they have "unique
dimensions", which is why none of the box stores I checked carried them.

Since BUSS fuses are easy, and cheap (about ten bucks each), my issue isn't
the fuses but the circuit breaker, where you were helpful in finding good
information which I appreciate.

Part # decoder is on page 5 of
https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/de...B-A-Series.pdf

Thanks for that reference decoding Carling AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C into
o AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C https://i.postimg.cc/vmTTdpdB/breaker02.jpg
o A = (1) series = A
o A = (2) actuator = Handle, one per pole
o 2 = (3) poles = Two
o B = (4) circuit = Series Trip (Current)
o 0 = (5) Auxiliary/alarm switch = w/o Aux Switch
o 24 = (6) Frequency & Delay = 50/60 Hz, Medium
o 635 = (7) Current Rating (Amperes) = 35.000
o 5 = (8) Terminal = Screw 10-32 (Bus Type)
o D = (9) Actuator = ON-OFF, Actuator Color Black, Legend White
o 1 = (10) Mounting/Barriers = 6-32 x 0.195 inches, no
o C = (11) Agency Approval = UL Recognized & CSA Accepted
o AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C

The rest of the printed specs are assumed (based on page 37):
o 277VAC 50/60 Hz, 80VDC
o 10,000 ON-OFF operations @ 6 per minute

The spec "delay" is "medium" where it's "04" on the package:
o DELAY 04

The only package spec not found in the document was this one:
o TRIP AMPS 43 (? hard to tell)

But where I can still make the following corrections to the OP table:
o Carling Switch Inc. https://i.postimg.cc/vmTTdpdB/breaker02.jpg
o AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C
o FL AMP 35
o MAX VOLTS 277
o HERTZ 50/60
o DELAY 04 (? hard to tell)
o TRIP AMPS 43 (? hard to tell)
o Mexico 9513 (probably the 13th week in 1995, likely original)

Interesting is this note on page 37:
"All A-Series Circuit Breakers will trip on overload, even when
the actuator is forcibly held in the ON position."

https://www.onlinecomponents.com/car...-16957461.html
says they have 3 in stock in AZ

Thanks for finding that part with a price comparison point:
o $ 92.45 onlinecomponents.com
o $137.07 jackssmallengines.com
o $233.45 ordertree.com

Someone brought up we don't necessarily need to replace with the exact
part, which, after all, clearly failed before its 10,000 actuations
lifecycle; if I replace with an alternate part, it's good to know the specs
(but I'll likely buy the OE part for the obvious reasons).

--
As a service to the purposefully helpful posters, trolls will be ignored.

On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 19:13:27 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

Make that Mouser. Newark price is WAY higherr and no longer in stock.
Mouser has 10 in the warehouse

Thanks Clare for that purposefully helpful lookup, where I may have made an
inadvertent typo at some point, as it's AA2 (2 pole), not AA3 (3 pole):
o AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C https://i.postimg.cc/vmTTdpdB/breaker02.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/T2FMp20V/breaker05.jpg

Mouser doesn't stock this part, but they do have a decent datasheet:
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/65/A-Series_Details__26_COS_030314-345780.pdf

I will need to call Mouser during business hours for price & availability:
o (800) 346-6873, (817) 804-3888

Unfortunately, Newark also says "Not Normally Stocked":
https://www.newark.com/carling-technologies/aa2-b0-24-635-5d1-c/a-series-circuit-breaker-rohs/dp/88H2049?ost=AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C

But at least they list a price, where, the going "fair" rate is about $100
o $ 92.45 onlinecomponents.com
o $ 95.53 newark.com
o $137.07 jackssmallengines.com
o $233.45 ordertree.com

The question is mainly HOW do you guys get hard-to-find electrical parts.

BTW, the smoke is everywhere easily smelled, strongly in the air, with that
classic wood burning smell, where the most recent time this happened was
the Paradise Fire, where the smoke traveled hundreds of miles to blanket
the Silicon Valley as this smoke is just now starting to do today with the
picking up of the wind in the past few hours.

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 01:54:16 -0000 (UTC), Arlen _G_ Holder
wrote:

On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 19:13:27 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

Make that Mouser. Newark price is WAY higherr and no longer in stock.
Mouser has 10 in the warehouse

Thanks Clare for that purposefully helpful lookup, where I may have made an
inadvertent typo at some point, as it's AA2 (2 pole), not AA3 (3 pole):
o AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C https://i.postimg.cc/vmTTdpdB/breaker02.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/T2FMp20V/breaker05.jpg

Mouser doesn't stock this part, but they do have a decent datasheet:
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/65/A-Series_Details__26_COS_030314-345780.pdf

I will need to call Mouser during business hours for price & availability:
o (800) 346-6873, (817) 804-3888

Unfortunately, Newark also says "Not Normally Stocked":
https://www.newark.com/carling-technologies/aa2-b0-24-635-5d1-c/a-series-circuit-breaker-rohs/dp/88H2049?ost=AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C

But at least they list a price, where, the going "fair" rate is about $100
o $ 92.45 onlinecomponents.com
o $ 95.53 newark.com
o $137.07 jackssmallengines.com
o $233.45 ordertree.com

The question is mainly HOW do you guys get hard-to-find electrical parts.

BTW, the smoke is everywhere easily smelled, strongly in the air, with that
classic wood burning smell, where the most recent time this happened was
the Paradise Fire, where the smoke traveled hundreds of miles to blanket
the Silicon Valley as this smoke is just now starting to do today with the
picking up of the wind in the past few hours.
What "I" would do, in all likelihood, is CONVERT it to a standard
more easily available part. Like a QOB. Just have to work out a
mounting method.

On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 19:17:54 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd wrote:

if you have a part number, eBay or Amazon. SquareD QOB235 runs about $30

Thanks for that purposefully helpful advice on considering this breaker:
o Square D QOB235 2 Pole Circuit Breaker
https://www.superbreakers.net/2-pole-circuit-breakers/square-d-qob235-35-amp

It would be nice if the circuit breaker fits reasonably well in the front:
https://i.postimg.cc/63Z0x60t/generac-circuit-breaker-panel.jpg

Where, in the rear, it's less important how things bolt together:
https://i.postimg.cc/ryNkQQvY/breaker03.jpg
Where the Carling uses four 10-32 terminal bolts (lug type).

I thank you for not trolling, since it takes zero energy for the trolls to
troll while you went to the trouble to find a decent fit, where what I'll
do is trace out a paper cutout on the generator and take it with me to Home
Depot or Ace to see if the $30 "Square D QOB235 2 Pole Circuit Breaker" can
be retrofitted into that front panel hole.

Thanks for spending energy to bring items of value to the Usenet potluck.

--
For Jeff Liebermann and anyone interested, the smell of fire is all over
Silicon Valley tonight, which the winds brougth suddenly, where a pall
hangs over the valley, with a very strong odor of burning wood.

On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 22:37:59 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 01:54:16 -0000 (UTC), Arlen _G_ Holder
wrote:

On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 19:13:27 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

Make that Mouser. Newark price is WAY higherr and no longer in stock.
Mouser has 10 in the warehouse

Thanks Clare for that purposefully helpful lookup, where I may have made an
inadvertent typo at some point, as it's AA2 (2 pole), not AA3 (3 pole):
o AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C https://i.postimg.cc/vmTTdpdB/breaker02.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/T2FMp20V/breaker05.jpg

Mouser doesn't stock this part, but they do have a decent datasheet:
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/65/A-Series_Details__26_COS_030314-345780.pdf

I will need to call Mouser during business hours for price & availability:
o (800) 346-6873, (817) 804-3888

Unfortunately, Newark also says "Not Normally Stocked":
https://www.newark.com/carling-technologies/aa2-b0-24-635-5d1-c/a-series-circuit-breaker-rohs/dp/88H2049?ost=AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C

But at least they list a price, where, the going "fair" rate is about $100
o $ 92.45 onlinecomponents.com
o $ 95.53 newark.com
o $137.07 jackssmallengines.com
o $233.45 ordertree.com

The question is mainly HOW do you guys get hard-to-find electrical parts.

BTW, the smoke is everywhere easily smelled, strongly in the air, with that
classic wood burning smell, where the most recent time this happened was
the Paradise Fire, where the smoke traveled hundreds of miles to blanket
the Silicon Valley as this smoke is just now starting to do today with the
picking up of the wind in the past few hours.
What "I" would do, in all likelihood, is CONVERT it to a standard
more easily available part. Like a QOB. Just have to work out a
mounting method.

That is a very normal form factor for industrial equipment.

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 08:53:54 -0400, wrote:

What "I" would do, in all likelihood, is CONVERT it to a standard
more easily available part. Like a QOB. Just have to work out a
mounting method.

That is a very normal form factor for industrial equipment.

This thread is about how to source hard-to-find electrical parts.

Given results below, the summary is things "can" be sourced.
o But there must be a better way to source hard-to-find parts.
For those times you want the part in your hand today.

While converting to a different part, particularly from a part that clearly
failed prior to its 10,000 cycle rating, often works, and, I've often Rube
Goldberg'd myself, given this is an electrical component attached to the
mains, and given it has to be "to code", and given that it can kick in when
I'm not home, my FIRST CHOICE (for the minor price difference of $30 for a
different part & $100 for the right part anyway), is to try to source the
correct part that has bolt holes in it, rather than an alternative that
doesn't fit the weathertight outdoor generator enclosure attached to a huge
source of propane:
https://i.postimg.cc/63Z0x60t/generac-circuit-breaker-panel.jpg

Anyway, this thread is really not about the part per se, but how to SOURCE
hard-to-find electrical parts, which is more of a TECHNIQUE than anything
else.

On technique, I learned a lot about phone calls in the past few hours...

a. Part: Carling AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C 35-amp circuit breaker
b. Carling: https://www.carlingtech.com/findarep?location=243
c. Carling suggests the long list of distributors (alphabetically)
d. Bridge: 408-335-6700 (you need to pick a person & leave a msg)
e. Avnet: 408-435-3500 (4-5 weeks lead time, $86.42)
f. Bates: 408-400-9586 (the number has been disconnected)
g. Digikey: 800-344-4539 (global sales only, min quantity is 20 parts)
h. Master: 408-970-8090 (not in stock locally, two weeks, $92.45)
i. Mouser: 817-804-3888 (not in stock, can send quote)
j. Newark: 800-463-9275 (not in stock, minimum order is 2)
k. Sager: 408-544-9500 (not in stock locally, can be ordered, $71.48)
l. TTI: 510-668-0830 (not in stock, can only order in bulk)
That's for the (mostly) local Carling so-called "distributors".

Now we get to local electrical parts suppliers...
m. AlexanderElec: 831-457-3911 (left message)
n. BayPower: 408-998-2980 (they don't stock, and can't order)
o. CupertinoElec: 408-808-8000 (don't deal with individuals)
p. Eckerman: 831-252-0987 (doesn't have any resource I don't have)
q. EdgesElec: 408-293-5818 (don't stock, don't order)
r. NicoElec: 408-446-4141 (left message)
s. Pfeiffer: 408-436-8523 (they don't do residential)
t. SprigElec: 408-298-3134 (transferred to sales, left message)

Where we already knew, from Generac, of these online sites:
u. onlinecomponents.com $ 92.45 (stock situation unknown)
v. jackssmallengines.com $137.07 (stock situation unknown)
w. ordertree.com $233.45 (stock situation unknown)

And, of course, there is always the Internet:
x. Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Carling-Technologies-AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00FV1ZJ7M
y. FusesUnlimited https://www.fusesunlimited.com/circuit-protection-detail/carling/aa2-b0-24-635-5d1-c
z. Walmart https://www.walmart.com/ip/Carling-Technologies-AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C-Circuit-Breaker/213199082

Given those results, the summary is things "can" be sourced.
o But there must be a better way to source hard-to-find parts.
For those times you want the part in your hand today.

--
BTW, PG&E says there will be "another" outage on Tuesday 10/29, which, is
odd, because we're still in the first outage from Saturday... and, get
this, at least where I live, the winds have been almost nothing all this
time. (Although I know what matters are wider area weather patterns.)

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 18:38:17 -0000 (UTC), Arlen _G_ Holder
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 08:53:54 -0400, wrote:

What "I" would do, in all likelihood, is CONVERT it to a standard
more easily available part. Like a QOB. Just have to work out a
mounting method.

That is a very normal form factor for industrial equipment.

This thread is about how to source hard-to-find electrical parts.

Given results below, the summary is things "can" be sourced.
o But there must be a better way to source hard-to-find parts.
For those times you want the part in your hand today.

While converting to a different part, particularly from a part that clearly
failed prior to its 10,000 cycle rating, often works, and, I've often Rube
Goldberg'd myself, given this is an electrical component attached to the
mains, and given it has to be "to code", and given that it can kick in when
I'm not home, my FIRST CHOICE (for the minor price difference of $30 for a
different part & $100 for the right part anyway), is to try to source the
correct part that has bolt holes in it, rather than an alternative that
doesn't fit the weathertight outdoor generator enclosure attached to a huge
source of propane:
https://i.postimg.cc/63Z0x60t/generac-circuit-breaker-panel.jpg

Anyway, this thread is really not about the part per se, but how to SOURCE
hard-to-find electrical parts, which is more of a TECHNIQUE than anything
else.

On technique, I learned a lot about phone calls in the past few hours...

a. Part: Carling AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C 35-amp circuit breaker
b. Carling: https://www.carlingtech.com/findarep?location=243
c. Carling suggests the long list of distributors (alphabetically)
d. Bridge: 408-335-6700 (you need to pick a person & leave a msg)
e. Avnet: 408-435-3500 (4-5 weeks lead time, $86.42)
f. Bates: 408-400-9586 (the number has been disconnected)
g. Digikey: 800-344-4539 (global sales only, min quantity is 20 parts)
h. Master: 408-970-8090 (not in stock locally, two weeks, $92.45)
i. Mouser: 817-804-3888 (not in stock, can send quote)
j. Newark: 800-463-9275 (not in stock, minimum order is 2)
k. Sager: 408-544-9500 (not in stock locally, can be ordered, $71.48)
l. TTI: 510-668-0830 (not in stock, can only order in bulk)
That's for the (mostly) local Carling so-called "distributors".

Now we get to local electrical parts suppliers...
m. AlexanderElec: 831-457-3911 (left message)
n. BayPower: 408-998-2980 (they don't stock, and can't order)
o. CupertinoElec: 408-808-8000 (don't deal with individuals)
p. Eckerman: 831-252-0987 (doesn't have any resource I don't have)
q. EdgesElec: 408-293-5818 (don't stock, don't order)
r. NicoElec: 408-446-4141 (left message)
s. Pfeiffer: 408-436-8523 (they don't do residential)
t. SprigElec: 408-298-3134 (transferred to sales, left message)

Where we already knew, from Generac, of these online sites:
u. onlinecomponents.com $ 92.45 (stock situation unknown)
v. jackssmallengines.com $137.07 (stock situation unknown)
w. ordertree.com $233.45 (stock situation unknown)

And, of course, there is always the Internet:
x. Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Carling-Technologies-AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00FV1ZJ7M
y. FusesUnlimited https://www.fusesunlimited.com/circuit-protection-detail/carling/aa2-b0-24-635-5d1-c
z. Walmart https://www.walmart.com/ip/Carling-Technologies-AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C-Circuit-Breaker/213199082

Given those results, the summary is things "can" be sourced.
o But there must be a better way to source hard-to-find parts.
For those times you want the part in your hand today.

If you can live with a 30 or a 40, Grainger has them for $32. They
might be able to order the 35 but you are out a few weeks I imagine.
What do you have in the transfer equipment at the panel? If you have a
35 protecting it at the panel for overloads, a 40 will adequately
protect the feeder for short circuit.

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 18:38:17 -0000 (UTC), Arlen _G_ Holder
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 08:53:54 -0400, wrote:

What "I" would do, in all likelihood, is CONVERT it to a standard
more easily available part. Like a QOB. Just have to work out a
mounting method.

That is a very normal form factor for industrial equipment.

This thread is about how to source hard-to-find electrical parts.

Given results below, the summary is things "can" be sourced.
o But there must be a better way to source hard-to-find parts.
For those times you want the part in your hand today.

While converting to a different part, particularly from a part that clearly
failed prior to its 10,000 cycle rating, often works, and, I've often Rube
Goldberg'd myself, given this is an electrical component attached to the
mains, and given it has to be "to code", and given that it can kick in when
I'm not home, my FIRST CHOICE (for the minor price difference of $30 for a
different part & $100 for the right part anyway), is to try to source the
correct part that has bolt holes in it, rather than an alternative that
doesn't fit the weathertight outdoor generator enclosure attached to a huge
source of propane:
https://i.postimg.cc/63Z0x60t/generac-circuit-breaker-panel.jpg

Anyway, this thread is really not about the part per se, but how to SOURCE
hard-to-find electrical parts, which is more of a TECHNIQUE than anything
else.

On technique, I learned a lot about phone calls in the past few hours...

a. Part: Carling AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C 35-amp circuit breaker
b. Carling: https://www.carlingtech.com/findarep?location=243
c. Carling suggests the long list of distributors (alphabetically)
d. Bridge: 408-335-6700 (you need to pick a person & leave a msg)
e. Avnet: 408-435-3500 (4-5 weeks lead time, $86.42)
f. Bates: 408-400-9586 (the number has been disconnected)
g. Digikey: 800-344-4539 (global sales only, min quantity is 20 parts)
h. Master: 408-970-8090 (not in stock locally, two weeks, $92.45)
i. Mouser: 817-804-3888 (not in stock, can send quote)
j. Newark: 800-463-9275 (not in stock, minimum order is 2)
k. Sager: 408-544-9500 (not in stock locally, can be ordered, $71.48)
l. TTI: 510-668-0830 (not in stock, can only order in bulk)
That's for the (mostly) local Carling so-called "distributors".

Now we get to local electrical parts suppliers...
m. AlexanderElec: 831-457-3911 (left message)
n. BayPower: 408-998-2980 (they don't stock, and can't order)
o. CupertinoElec: 408-808-8000 (don't deal with individuals)
p. Eckerman: 831-252-0987 (doesn't have any resource I don't have)
q. EdgesElec: 408-293-5818 (don't stock, don't order)
r. NicoElec: 408-446-4141 (left message)
s. Pfeiffer: 408-436-8523 (they don't do residential)
t. SprigElec: 408-298-3134 (transferred to sales, left message)

Where we already knew, from Generac, of these online sites:
u. onlinecomponents.com $ 92.45 (stock situation unknown)
v. jackssmallengines.com $137.07 (stock situation unknown)
w. ordertree.com $233.45 (stock situation unknown)

And, of course, there is always the Internet:
x. Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Carling-Technologies-AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00FV1ZJ7M
y. FusesUnlimited https://www.fusesunlimited.com/circuit-protection-detail/carling/aa2-b0-24-635-5d1-c
z. Walmart https://www.walmart.com/ip/Carling-Technologies-AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C-Circuit-Breaker/213199082

Given those results, the summary is things "can" be sourced.
o But there must be a better way to source hard-to-find parts.
For those times you want the part in your hand today.

Look at "Panel, 6-32 mounting type"


https://www.grainger.com/category/electrical/power-management-circuit-protection-and-distribution/distribution-circuit-breakers-and-temporary-power-solutions/circuit-breakers/panel-mount-circuit-breakers

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 18:38:17 -0000 (UTC), Arlen _G_ Holder
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 08:53:54 -0400, wrote:

What "I" would do, in all likelihood, is CONVERT it to a standard
more easily available part. Like a QOB. Just have to work out a
mounting method.

That is a very normal form factor for industrial equipment.

This thread is about how to source hard-to-find electrical parts.

Given results below, the summary is things "can" be sourced.
o But there must be a better way to source hard-to-find parts.
For those times you want the part in your hand today.

While converting to a different part, particularly from a part that clearly
failed prior to its 10,000 cycle rating, often works, and, I've often Rube
Goldberg'd myself, given this is an electrical component attached to the
mains, and given it has to be "to code", and given that it can kick in when
I'm not home, my FIRST CHOICE (for the minor price difference of $30 for a
different part & $100 for the right part anyway), is to try to source the
correct part that has bolt holes in it, rather than an alternative that
doesn't fit the weathertight outdoor generator enclosure attached to a huge
source of propane:
https://i.postimg.cc/63Z0x60t/generac-circuit-breaker-panel.jpg

Anyway, this thread is really not about the part per se, but how to SOURCE
hard-to-find electrical parts, which is more of a TECHNIQUE than anything
else.

On technique, I learned a lot about phone calls in the past few hours...

a. Part: Carling AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C 35-amp circuit breaker
b. Carling: https://www.carlingtech.com/findarep?location=243
c. Carling suggests the long list of distributors (alphabetically)
d. Bridge: 408-335-6700 (you need to pick a person & leave a msg)
e. Avnet: 408-435-3500 (4-5 weeks lead time, $86.42)
f. Bates: 408-400-9586 (the number has been disconnected)
g. Digikey: 800-344-4539 (global sales only, min quantity is 20 parts)
h. Master: 408-970-8090 (not in stock locally, two weeks, $92.45)
i. Mouser: 817-804-3888 (not in stock, can send quote)
j. Newark: 800-463-9275 (not in stock, minimum order is 2)
k. Sager: 408-544-9500 (not in stock locally, can be ordered, $71.48)
l. TTI: 510-668-0830 (not in stock, can only order in bulk)
That's for the (mostly) local Carling so-called "distributors".

Now we get to local electrical parts suppliers...
m. AlexanderElec: 831-457-3911 (left message)
n. BayPower: 408-998-2980 (they don't stock, and can't order)
o. CupertinoElec: 408-808-8000 (don't deal with individuals)
p. Eckerman: 831-252-0987 (doesn't have any resource I don't have)
q. EdgesElec: 408-293-5818 (don't stock, don't order)
r. NicoElec: 408-446-4141 (left message)
s. Pfeiffer: 408-436-8523 (they don't do residential)
t. SprigElec: 408-298-3134 (transferred to sales, left message)

Where we already knew, from Generac, of these online sites:
u. onlinecomponents.com $ 92.45 (stock situation unknown)
v. jackssmallengines.com $137.07 (stock situation unknown)
w. ordertree.com $233.45 (stock situation unknown)

And, of course, there is always the Internet:
x. Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Carling-Technologies-AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00FV1ZJ7M
y. FusesUnlimited https://www.fusesunlimited.com/circuit-protection-detail/carling/aa2-b0-24-635-5d1-c
z. Walmart https://www.walmart.com/ip/Carling-Technologies-AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C-Circuit-Breaker/213199082

Given those results, the summary is things "can" be sourced.
o But there must be a better way to source hard-to-find parts.
For those times you want the part in your hand today.
If you want an uncommon part in your hand today, Rots of Ruck my
friend.
The only way around it is to "rube" a common part to fit or pay the
exhorbitant prices charged by those who MAY have the part in stock
because they "service" that particular device that needs the part.

The FACT that it is a "common industrial part" does not help the
common man source one in an emergency.

That brings up another point though - were you not aware MONTHS ago
that the genset was not functioning properly? I seem to remember you
making a half-assed attempt at getting information about it WAYYYY
back. The time to find out it needed that breaker , and sourcing it at
leisure was THEN.

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 14:56:14 -0400, wrote:

If you can live with a 30 or a 40, Grainger has them for $32. They
might be able to order the 35 but you are out a few weeks I imagine.
What do you have in the transfer equipment at the panel? If you have a
35 protecting it at the panel for overloads, a 40 will adequately
protect the feeder for short circuit.

The generator has been running for 3 days now, where it quit sans warning
earlier today, where a check of the 12VDC car battery showed it was down to
6 volts, so, obviously, the charging circuit wasn't working (there's a lot
of corrosion on the battery terminals, but it starts up the generator just
fine when it's at 12VDC).

I know the battery was fully charged as PG&E had given us a day's notice,
so I had charged it for that day until the power went out 3 days ago.

The 8KWH generator has been burning propane at about 50 gallons a day (near
as I can tell from the gauge on the propane tank, which isn't all that easy
to read accurately), and where I used a jumper cable from a nearby vehicle
to debug that it was the battery and then, once debugged, I swapped in a
second car battery to keep the electricity going today (and put the dead
battery on a charger):
https://i.postimg.cc/c1Q5NF6n/generac-battery-charge.jpg

Looking inside each of the two transfer panels, one for each half of the
house, they seem to be listed as 100 Amp service each based on this wording
on the outside of the Generac part number
https://i.postimg.cc/MKnVYxgH/transfer13.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/V6L4ZxZw/transfer07.jpg

Where there are 4 fuses in each of those two panels, all of which are
supposed to be the "uniquely sized" 600 Volt 2 Amp Buss SBS-2 fast acting
fuses, where it currently has 4 and 5 amp Buss BBS-4 and Buss BBS-5 600
Volt fast acting fuses (which came with the transfer panel when I bought
it) but where the 2AMP SBS-2 fuses have a similar (but not as bad) sourcing
problem as does the circuit breaker.
https://i.postimg.cc/TYq0GY8x/transfer03.jpg

This is, I think, OEM but based only on Ebay listings, which may be wrong:
o https://i.postimg.cc/MGb704vW/buss-sbs-2-600-V-fast-acting-fuse.jpg
This is original that the electrician originally put in the transfer panel:
o https://i.postimg.cc/bNPYzVgc/bussmanfuses01.jpg

The house is 200 Amp service, where my understanding is that each half of
the setup handles 100 Amps, but where I'm not sure why the original
electrician put in 4amp and 5amp fuses when online, I see pictures of all
sorts of sizes, but some of them are 2Amp fuses, so it's hard to tell
what's the correct fuse amperage.
https://i.postimg.cc/N0wQX4Jm/transfer02.jpg

I don't see anything else inside the transfer panel that is fused.
https://i.postimg.cc/Hx4VqSLt/Generac-Transfer-Switch-Exploded-Diagram-9067-9-16345-Page-18.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/1XFTVs7N/Generac-Transfer-Switch-Wiring-Diagram-9067-9-16345-Page-15.jpg

Although the generator has the 35-amp circuit breaker & a fuse:
https://i.postimg.cc/wMg9DggX/Generac-Generator-Wiriing-Diagram-9067-9-16345-Page-14.jpg
Which is a typical 15-amp fuse shown in item #10 below:
https://i.postimg.cc/qq326cBh/Generac-Control-Panel-9067-9-16345-Page-19.jpg

--
Usenet is a great resource for homeowners with electrical problems to fix!

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 15:42:59 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

That brings up another point though - were you not aware MONTHS ago
that the genset was not functioning properly? I seem to remember you
making a half-assed attempt at getting information about it WAYYYY
back. The time to find out it needed that breaker , and sourcing it at
leisure was THEN.

Hi Clare,

You have a good memory, but, not quite good enough (I say that in good
humor, as you do have a good memory, as do I on such things.)

Fact is, it's not that simple, where the problem is always in DEBUGGING.
https://i.postimg.cc/V6L4ZxZw/transfer07.jpg

Last time, I thought the problem was the relays, which, you'll see in this
picture, were each labeled and then swapped (since the two 100Amp transfer
panels are duplicates), and yet, they failed the same both ways.
https://i.postimg.cc/kgm2pFDw/generac-transfer-panel-solenoid.jpg

We also didn't know if the problem was in the actual transfer solenoid,
which, I must add, for one, I had to manually flip it, even this time, but
with some things broken, I'm not sure if that's a first order or second
order effect.

Thirdly, there were two fuses missing, where I replaced those two fuses in
the interim.

And, fourthly, while I'm sure there is a testing sequence, you never really
get to test these things under real world circumstances until power goes
out.

Luckily, out here, in California, we don't have to wait long for THAT to
happen, now do we?

In short, it wasn't until I did all that and the power went out, that I
realized it was something else, which is when I finally took the breaker
out and realized it was half broken (it doesn't LOOK bad from the outside,
but it's bad in the inside).

Who knew?
Not me.
Until recently.

And, I only found out today, after three days running on propane,
that the battery was at 6volts, where who knows WHY the battery isn't
charging when the generator is running...
https://i.postimg.cc/c1Q5NF6n/generac-battery-charge.jpg

Luckily, Rube Goldberg borrowed a car, to jump the generator, and then
another battery to use to run the generator, and then with the power in the
house, I'm charging the original battery that has been on the generator for
the past 3 days due to the PG&E mismanagement outage.

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 14:59:29 -0400, wrote:

Look at "Panel, 6-32 mounting type"

You sir, are a veritable genius!
Thank you for the purposefully helpful advice which you could only have
found by extensive searches since nobody else knew of that but you!

More to come!

On Wed, 30 Oct 2019 04:47:15 -0000 (UTC), Arlen _G_ Holder wrote:

Look at "Panel, 6-32 mounting type"

You sir, are a veritable genius!
Thank you for the purposefully helpful advice which you could only have
found by extensive searches since nobody else knew of that but you!

More to come!

UPDATE:
o SUGGESTION: SAVE THIS POST (IT CONTAINS VALUABLE SOURCES!)

This thread contains a TESTED WORKING PROCESS for hard-to-find parts
o At the best price & stock possible, in quantities of 1, for homeowners

Being a good Usenet citizen, not only do I put energy into providing tons
of detail within the thread, but I always try to summarize the solution, so
that others coming here, in the foreseeable future, benefit from our
efforts), where this summary will reside in the permanent web-searchable
archives:

This summary will reside in these permanent web-searchable archives:
o http://tinyurl.com/alt-home-repair
o http://tinyurl.com/sci-electronics-repair
o http://tinyurl.com/alt-engineering-electrical

And in these permanent web searchable Usenet archives:
o http://alt.home.repair.narkive.com
o http://sci.electronics.repair.narkive.com
o http://alt.engineering.electrical.narkive.com

The goal was to source "things like" the following part:
https://i.postimg.cc/ryNkQQvY/breaker03.jpg
o #5, Generac Part Number #74969, 35 Amp Circuit Breaker
https://i.postimg.cc/qq326cBh/Generac-Control-Panel-9067-9-16345-Page-19.jpg

Home box stores were an instant fail, where those of you in the know would
have known that before I even attempted Lowes, Ace, Home Depot, etc.

Also, the local electrical supply shops (roughly about dozen I called in
the Silicon Valley), were (rather shockingly) completely clueless how to
obtain the part in stock (that was, perhaps, my biggest shock).
o AlexanderElec: 831-457-3911 (left message)
o BayPower: 408-998-2980 (they don't stock, and can't order)
o CupertinoElec: 408-808-8000 (don't deal with individuals)
o Eckerman: 831-252-0987 (doesn't have any resource I don't have)
o EdgesElec: 408-293-5818 (don't stock, don't order)
o NicoElec: 408-446-4141 (left message)
o Pfeiffer: 408-436-8523 (they don't do residential)
o SprigElec: 408-298-3134 (transferred to sales, left message)

Generac doesn't normally recommend suppliers, but after three calls, I
found one second-level tech who privately suggested these suppliers:
o http://onlinecomponents.com $ 92.45 (stock situation unknown)
o http://jackssmallengines.com $137.07 (stock situation unknown)
o http://ordertree.com $233.45 (stock situation unknown)

Searching on the net by Generac part number isn't as useful as searching by
the original part number, which, luckily, was still (barely) visible:
https://i.postimg.cc/vmTTdpdB/breaker02.jpg

AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C
1. A - Series A, 277VAC, 80VDC, 10,000 cycles
2. A - one handle per pole
3. 2 - two poles
4. B - series trip current
5. 0 - w/o aux
6. 24 - medium delay (04), 50/60Hz
7. 635 - 35 amp, trip at 43 amp
8. 5 - bolt-on rear connections 10-32 bolts (very important)
9. D - labeling is ON/OFF in white, everything else black
10. 1 - 6-32 x 0.195 inches
11. C - UL approved, CSA certified

o Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Carling-Technologies-AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00FV1ZJ7M
o FusesUnlimited
https://www.fusesunlimited.com/circuit-protection-detail/carling/aa2-b0-24-635-5d1-c
o Walmart
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Carling-Technologies-AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C-Circuit-Breaker/213199082

Carling, themselves part of a huge conglomerate, had a lost of a score or
so of local "recommended distributors", again, only a very few of which had
the part in stock who would sell in quantities of 1, but at a high price -
but it turns out there's a better way (see trick later in this post) to
bypass that score of parts distributor phone calls.

Carling AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C 35-amp circuit breaker
o Carling: https://www.carlingtech.com/findarep?location=243
o Bridge: 408-335-6700 (you need to pick a person & leave a msg)
o Avnet: 408-435-3500 (4-5 weeks lead time, $86.42)
o Bates: 408-400-9586 (the number has been disconnected)
o Digikey: 800-344-4539 (global sales only, min quantity is 20 parts)
o Master: 408-970-8090 (not in stock locally, two weeks, $92.45)
o Mouser: 817-804-3888 (not in stock, can send quote)
o Newark: 800-463-9275 (not in stock, minimum order is 2)
o Sager: 408-544-9500 (not in stock locally, can be ordered, $71.48)
o TTI: 510-668-0830 (not in stock, can only order in bulk)

Thanks to the purposefully helpful suggestion by gfretwell, I called
Grainger who put me in touch with technical support who told me that they
definitely do not carry and cannot purchase the "right" circuit breaker,
but that the 40-amp circuit breaker might work in a pinch.

The critical items, of course, are the type of rear connection, which is
what's different in the two Grainger alternatives, but which isn't obvious
in the Grainger photos because the photos don't show the all important rear
of the circuit breaker (spade type tend to vibrate off in generator
applications, I'm told, and anyway, it's an unnecessary retrofit).

The 40-amp Carling breaker that Grainger does carry, as gfretwell astutely
noted though, is pretty damn close (far better than the SquareD Q0B235,
which was also a purposefully helpful suggestion that was posed prior).

https://www.grainger.com/category/electrical/power-management-circuit-protection-and-distribution/distribution-circuit-breakers-and-temporary-power-solutions/circuit-breakers/panel-mount-circuit-breakers

Circuit Breaker, Magnetic Circuit Breaker Type, Toggle Switch Type, Number of Poles: 2
Grainger # 10C608 Mfr. Model # BA2-B0-34-640-521-C Catalog Page # 201 UNSPSC # 39121601
https://www.grainger.com/product/CARLING-TECHNOLOGIES-Circuit-Breaker-10C608

Circuit Breaker, Magnetic Circuit Breaker Type, Toggle Switch Type, Number of Poles: 2
Grainger # 3XC74 Mfr. Model # CA2-BO-34-640-111-C Catalog Page # 201 UNSPSC # 39121602
https://www.grainger.com/product/CARLING-TECHNOLOGIES-Circuit-Breaker-3XC74

I had never called Grainger before (always assuming they're the most
expensive), but, at $40 anyway, they are actually the cheapest, by far, but
they too didn't have the right part.

In the end, the BEST solution (if we don't go with the alternatives),
is this URL which was kindly supplied to be by one of the Carling
distributors (who said it's what _he uses_ to source _his_ parts!):
http://eciaauthorized.com

*That's a neat trick!*
o *My advice is to _SAVE THAT URL_*!

(That one URL is better than almost everything attempted to date to obtain
the part in stock at the best price possible today.)

BTW, Bob Engelhardt, who purposefully helpfully and very kindly suggested
the SquareD Q0B235 was on to something when he noted that the original part
clearly failed its 10,000 cycle promise, as that breaker couldn't possibly
have had more than a few score cycles in its short lifetime, given that
it's not a part you generally touch unless you're working on the generator
and want to disconnect it from the house (where you're more likely to just
pull the 15-amp generator fuse on the front panel to prevent a start):
https://i.postimg.cc/63Z0x60t/generac-circuit-breaker-panel.jpg

That 15-amp fuse is item #10 in this Generac exploded diagram):
https://i.postimg.cc/qq326cBh/Generac-Control-Panel-9067-9-16345-Page-19.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/Zqf00Y5K/Generac-Generator-Wiriing-Diagram-9067-9-16345-Page-14.jpg

The part is on order, thanks to purposefully helpful folks on this
repair-related group.

--
Usenet is a great resource for homeowners with electrical problems to fix!

The adult audience will appreciate that I never responded to the incessant
childish trolling by the likes of Snit (aka Fox's Mercantile) and Peter
Wieck (aka ) both of whom (and common trolls like them)
are on the permanent record (for their grandchildren, perhaps to read) as
only posting to satisfy their own childish amusement needs, sadly.

On 11/1/19 10:40 PM, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote:
o SUGGESTION: SAVE THIS POST (IT CONTAINS VALUABLE SOURCES!)

No, it contains your usual useless going on and on and on
about something most people don't give a **** about.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

Based upon what Fox's Mercantile said...

On 11/1/19 10:40 PM, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote:
o SUGGESTION: SAVE THIS POST (IT CONTAINS VALUABLE SOURCES!)

No, it contains your usual useless going on and on and on
about something most people don't give a **** about.

Why don't you shut the **** up!

On 11/2/19 7:56 PM, Tilbury wrote:

Why don't you shut the **** up!

Oh that's just precious.
Is that the best you can come up with?
Did you have to masturbate after sending it?


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

On Sun, 3 Nov 2019 07:09:19 -0600, Fox's Mercantile responded :

On 11/2/19 7:56 PM, Tilbury wrote:

Why don't you shut the **** up!

Oh that's just precious.
Is that the best you can come up with?
Did you have to masturbate after sending it?

asshole

On 11/3/19 4:37 PM, Alojzy Bednarz wrote:
On Sun, 3 Nov 2019 07:09:19 -0600, Fox's Mercantile responded :

On 11/2/19 7:56 PM, Tilbury wrote:

Why don't you shut the **** up!

Oh that's just precious.
Is that the best you can come up with?
Did you have to masturbate after sending it?

asshole


Well, yes. And damned proud of it.
I have no use for people like, you, Tilbury or Arlen.

Next!


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

Arlen _G_ Holder writes:


And, I only found out today, after three days running on propane,
that the battery was at 6volts, where who knows WHY the battery isn't
charging when the generator is running...
https://i.postimg.cc/c1Q5NF6n/generac-battery-charge.jpg

So plug a battery charger into the generator and hook it across
the battery..

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

On 12/16/19 11:30 AM, David Lesher wrote:
Arlen _G_ Holder writes:


And, I only found out today, after three days running on propane,
that the battery was at 6volts, where who knows WHY the battery isn't
charging when the generator is running...
https://i.postimg.cc/c1Q5NF6n/generac-battery-charge.jpg
So plug a battery charger into the generator and hook it across
the battery..

If only there was a detailed guide available on the net.

David Lesher wrote in
:

Arlen _G_ Holder writes:


And, I only found out today, after three days running on propane,
that the battery was at 6volts, where who knows WHY the battery
isn't charging when the generator is running...
https://i.postimg.cc/c1Q5NF6n/generac-battery-charge.jpg

So plug a battery charger into the generator and hook it across
the battery..


Could be a bad, overcharged battery with greyed out cells, which
are failed cells.

One way to get better longevity and lower maintenance is to replace
that lead pig with a LiFePo. Quite expensive, but you get what you
pay for.

Like LED light bulbs, the cost is amortized over the savings in
longevity, in personal time and reduced lead exposure to yourself and
the environment (for the battery).

It is like OLED TVs. Better costs more. LiFePo batteries are not
more expensive to manufacture, they are like Donald J. Trump, and his
psychological manipulations. They saw a lightweight product that
does the same as this nasty, old, acid filled ****box, and they knew
that a jacked up price point would be met by demand. He played on
the stupid half of America and fooled them all, and even some of the
smart side doesn't see his bull****.

They will always be overpriced and their makers will enjoy a higher
ROI as a result.

BUT that is what you 'want' or 'need' to be able to relax. Unlike
America and Trump. We need never put a joker like that in power
again. But I digress... again.

Also, the charging of said battery is a low current affair, so the
device keeping it topped off is less of a tax on your generator
system.

On 12/17/19 9:39 AM, wrote:
It is like OLED TVs. Better costs more. LiFePo batteries are not
more expensive to manufacture, they are like Donald J. Trump, and his
psychological manipulations. They saw a lightweight product that
does the same as this nasty, old, acid filled ****box, and they knew
that a jacked up price point would be met by demand. He played on
the stupid half of America and fooled them all, and even some of the
smart side doesn't see his bull****.

They will always be overpriced and their makers will enjoy a higher
ROI as a result.

BUT that is what you 'want' or 'need' to be able to relax. Unlike
America and Trump. We need never put a joker like that in power
again. But I digress... again.

Since you brought politics into this discussion...


In another 5 years, maybe Ilhan Omar and Ocasio-Kotex will be through puberty and will be old enough to run for President.


If you are a taxpayer, Ilhan Omar wants you to buy a house for lazy welfare democrats

https://omar.house.gov/media/press-r...housing-vision

and Ocasio-Kotex wants you to pay for her Green New Deal.

In the interim, Pocahontas wants to take the Medicare I've been funding for 40 years and give that to lazy welfare people as well.

To add insult to injury, I can't even claim the democrats as dependants on my federal income tax.

The democrat's mantra is to take from working people and give to lazy people.

On 12/17/19 10:21 AM, devnull wrote:

The democrat's mantra is to take from working people and give to lazy
people.

Where to you buy your Koolaid from?


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

devnull wrote in
:

Pocahontas wants to take the Medicare I've been funding for 40
years and give that to lazy welfare people as well.

The "40 years" you "funded Medicare" did not even pay for you, idiot.

So that money is long gone. Nothing for a retarded putz like you to
claim is getting spent elsewhere.

So I guess that makes you "Lamah****US". Because you seem to think
that ANY of what you paid in is even still there.

Yep... Yer a DEVice, with a NUL difference. Ya got that one right.

devnull wrote in
:

To add insult to injury, I can't even claim the democrats as
dependants on my federal income tax.

Another retarded, lame **** sub 100 IQ crack.

That way you talk, I funded you for the 45 years I worked and paid
in, you stupid putz.

The democrat's mantra is to take from working people and give to
lazy people.

No, that is the RETARD tea party or misled southern white retard
republican horse**** they feed into each other down at the sports
bar.

Don't see any democrats out spreading this kind of retarded
divisive horse****. Sadly half the country are sub 100 IQ idiots
like you. The nation used to get along before you retarded twits
going to his rallies got the hate drilled into you.

You dumb****s have place the entire globe into the Twilight Zone.

Fox's Mercantile wrote in
:

On 12/17/19 10:21 AM, devnull wrote:

The democrat's mantra is to take from working people and give to
lazy people.

Where to you buy your Koolaid from?



Goddamned shame it wasn't Jim Jones.

On Wed, 18 Dec 2019 05:35:47 +0000 (UTC),
wrote:

devnull wrote in
:

Pocahontas wants to take the Medicare I've been funding for 40
years and give that to lazy welfare people as well.

The "40 years" you "funded Medicare" did not even pay for you, idiot.

So that money is long gone. Nothing for a retarded putz like you to
claim is getting spent elsewhere.

So I guess that makes you "Lamah****US". Because you seem to think
that ANY of what you paid in is even still there.

Yep... Yer a DEVice, with a NUL difference. Ya got that one right.


I bet if I called it a Ponzi scheme you would have an insult for me.

On 12/17/19 11:41 PM, wrote:
Fox's Mercantile wrote in
:

On 12/17/19 10:21 AM, devnull wrote:

The democrat's mantra is to take from working people and give to
lazy people.

Where to you buy your Koolaid from?



Goddamned shame it wasn't Jim Jones.


Although, technically, that was Flavoraid.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

Fox's Mercantile wrote in news:qfKdndUxT-
:

On 12/17/19 11:41 PM,
wrote:
Fox's Mercantile wrote in
:

On 12/17/19 10:21 AM, devnull wrote:

The democrat's mantra is to take from working people and give to
lazy people.

Where to you buy your Koolaid from?



Goddamned shame it wasn't Jim Jones.


Although, technically, that was Flavoraid.



Yeah, except the way you used it was the "Drinking the Kool-Aid"
expression, even, as its roots have always been the stuff Jones
handed out, despite the misnomer it got for decades. As if he drank
it and survived, with degraded nueral effects. That didn't happen
when he became a republican. I know many whom are OK. It happened
when the idiot embraced the NYC criminal Doanld J. Trump. THAT was
his tainted Kool-Aid. Him and 63 million other idiots. NONE of them
did their due dilligence on the stupid *******.

And the last nit would be that it is "Kool-Aid", unless, I suppose
you were referencing the above mentioned expression, then phonetic is
good enough.