On 6/16/2019 2:17 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:57:35 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/16/2019 10:46 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 07:45:21 -0500, dpb wrote:
...

Yeah, many alternatives are _possible_; just getting the existing to its
new home will be good enough altho that one additional switching
location would potentially be useful. I might see if there's another
route to get that functionality as well altho actually on reflection
there isn't really a great location to mount the other side switch--as
actually the way I described to Micky of being four entrances with only
one not switched is really not quite true -- two aren't switched because
the wide opening into the entry area doesn't have any switches on its
wall because there is essentially no wall--they opened up that wall
almost entirely so the switches at the exterior wall serve the purpose.
We're making that distance longer by expanding the entry way, albeit not
but by another couple feet.

I guess I could cut in a box on the N wall at the east end...have to
think about that if can get in there to pull a feed w/o more demolition
than think its worth in the end...

As long as you understand 3 way and 4 way switching, adding new switch
locations is not that hard if you have a way to add the wire in the
wall. I am looking at one of those myself but the trick will be
getting 4 more wires down the wall.

I understand the wiring, yes...already had added another one for the
second garage when we came back -- Dad had only used the one for their
car but we're using both so I ran the extra feed to the other one a few
years ago.

The wall itself is hollow; it's whether I can get to the top plate to
get through it where would need to be is the question...will only be
able to determine that when we finish the framing of the new addition to
get it closed in enough we can open up that exterior wall to be able to
see what will run into.

Similar issue with the idea of replacing the on-off of the entry way
with 3-way in the same location excepting it has the additional question
of whether there is (and I doubt there is) the needed 3-wires to the
present location/fixture from the main panel--it's in the basement and
it appears the feed went up the wall to the 2nd floor ceiling joists and
then out and in the attic space of the entry. That was doable when did
the major remodel 'cuz had all the exterior walls open to insulate so
had access to everything then...and, I'm just not interested enough to
make a major re-opening of all that just to pull that one wire.

And, of course, the interior wall is also still lath/plaster.

I could show you how to do it with 2 wires but it would be wrong ;-)

(The scheme involves switching the neutral)

OK, got far enough yesterday to be able to uncover the weather wrap over
the interior wall so can see where the cables were run previously...and
what's there.

There are the two 3-wire for the multiply-switched locations and then
two 2-wire for the two lights that are singly-switched (entry and porch
been discussing that are just stuck through the wall sheathing above the
wide door header. There's sufficient length since they ran across the
ceiling down the outside wall by the entry door to reach over the header
to the new closet area through that original wall where can put the
junction box, then continue from there through the new framing to
similar location on the new wall. Will have to cut the exterior
sheathing to get access to run thru studs over the header but can see
enough to see it is feasible.

QUESTION:

SWMBO has decided now she would like ceiling fan/light in this entry in
place of what was just the light. Never had one, never wired one for
anybody else and don't yet have the unit in hand to inspect...

Am thinking would be nice to be able to just have normal on-off switch
just for the light at the exterior door (where original light switch was
in a gang of four box) and then, for convenience, mount the Hunter
switch that lets one control fan/light at the inside wall location so
wouldn't have to walk all the way to the door. (Being a relatively
small space, couldn't find a small unit with remote, the switch was best
found).

I'm trying to figure out if I can parallel that switch w/ a conventional
on for the light alone just as the entrance/egress control when only
need the light...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hunter-All-Fan-3-Speed-Fan-Light-Dual-Slide-Ceiling-Fan-Switch-27182/202033443

If you'd care to think about that while I'm doing demo work...

--

On Sat, 22 Jun 2019 10:56:48 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/16/2019 2:17 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:57:35 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/16/2019 10:46 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 07:45:21 -0500, dpb wrote:
...

Yeah, many alternatives are _possible_; just getting the existing to its
new home will be good enough altho that one additional switching
location would potentially be useful. I might see if there's another
route to get that functionality as well altho actually on reflection
there isn't really a great location to mount the other side switch--as
actually the way I described to Micky of being four entrances with only
one not switched is really not quite true -- two aren't switched because
the wide opening into the entry area doesn't have any switches on its
wall because there is essentially no wall--they opened up that wall
almost entirely so the switches at the exterior wall serve the purpose.
We're making that distance longer by expanding the entry way, albeit not
but by another couple feet.

I guess I could cut in a box on the N wall at the east end...have to
think about that if can get in there to pull a feed w/o more demolition
than think its worth in the end...

As long as you understand 3 way and 4 way switching, adding new switch
locations is not that hard if you have a way to add the wire in the
wall. I am looking at one of those myself but the trick will be
getting 4 more wires down the wall.

I understand the wiring, yes...already had added another one for the
second garage when we came back -- Dad had only used the one for their
car but we're using both so I ran the extra feed to the other one a few
years ago.

The wall itself is hollow; it's whether I can get to the top plate to
get through it where would need to be is the question...will only be
able to determine that when we finish the framing of the new addition to
get it closed in enough we can open up that exterior wall to be able to
see what will run into.

Similar issue with the idea of replacing the on-off of the entry way
with 3-way in the same location excepting it has the additional question
of whether there is (and I doubt there is) the needed 3-wires to the
present location/fixture from the main panel--it's in the basement and
it appears the feed went up the wall to the 2nd floor ceiling joists and
then out and in the attic space of the entry. That was doable when did
the major remodel 'cuz had all the exterior walls open to insulate so
had access to everything then...and, I'm just not interested enough to
make a major re-opening of all that just to pull that one wire.

And, of course, the interior wall is also still lath/plaster.

I could show you how to do it with 2 wires but it would be wrong ;-)

(The scheme involves switching the neutral)

OK, got far enough yesterday to be able to uncover the weather wrap over
the interior wall so can see where the cables were run previously...and
what's there.

There are the two 3-wire for the multiply-switched locations and then
two 2-wire for the two lights that are singly-switched (entry and porch
been discussing that are just stuck through the wall sheathing above the
wide door header. There's sufficient length since they ran across the
ceiling down the outside wall by the entry door to reach over the header
to the new closet area through that original wall where can put the
junction box, then continue from there through the new framing to
similar location on the new wall. Will have to cut the exterior
sheathing to get access to run thru studs over the header but can see
enough to see it is feasible.

QUESTION:

SWMBO has decided now she would like ceiling fan/light in this entry in
place of what was just the light. Never had one, never wired one for
anybody else and don't yet have the unit in hand to inspect...

Am thinking would be nice to be able to just have normal on-off switch
just for the light at the exterior door (where original light switch was
in a gang of four box) and then, for convenience, mount the Hunter
switch that lets one control fan/light at the inside wall location so
wouldn't have to walk all the way to the door. (Being a relatively
small space, couldn't find a small unit with remote, the switch was best
found).

I'm trying to figure out if I can parallel that switch w/ a conventional
on for the light alone just as the entrance/egress control when only
need the light...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hunter-All-Fan-3-Speed-Fan-Light-Dual-Slide-Ceiling-Fan-Switch-27182/202033443

If you'd care to think about that while I'm doing demo work...

As long as it is just a switch loop, I don't see a problem.
If you have access above or below (attic or basement) you might want
to run a smurf tube into that exterior wall box now that you have it
open so changing things in the future is trivial. Terminate it in a J
box you can get to.

Starting from scratch in a new addition I ran everything that went in
the walls in smurf.
http://gfretwell.com/electrical/addi...murf%20job.jpg
That all terminates in a central spot so swapping things around or
adding new stuff is easy
http://gfretwell.com/electrical/addition/J%20box.jpg

On Saturday, June 22, 2019 at 12:48:32 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Jun 2019 10:56:48 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/16/2019 2:17 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:57:35 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/16/2019 10:46 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 07:45:21 -0500, dpb wrote:
...

Yeah, many alternatives are _possible_; just getting the existing to its
new home will be good enough altho that one additional switching
location would potentially be useful. I might see if there's another
route to get that functionality as well altho actually on reflection
there isn't really a great location to mount the other side switch--as
actually the way I described to Micky of being four entrances with only
one not switched is really not quite true -- two aren't switched because
the wide opening into the entry area doesn't have any switches on its
wall because there is essentially no wall--they opened up that wall
almost entirely so the switches at the exterior wall serve the purpose.
We're making that distance longer by expanding the entry way, albeit not
but by another couple feet.

I guess I could cut in a box on the N wall at the east end...have to
think about that if can get in there to pull a feed w/o more demolition
than think its worth in the end...

As long as you understand 3 way and 4 way switching, adding new switch
locations is not that hard if you have a way to add the wire in the
wall. I am looking at one of those myself but the trick will be
getting 4 more wires down the wall.

I understand the wiring, yes...already had added another one for the
second garage when we came back -- Dad had only used the one for their
car but we're using both so I ran the extra feed to the other one a few
years ago.

The wall itself is hollow; it's whether I can get to the top plate to
get through it where would need to be is the question...will only be
able to determine that when we finish the framing of the new addition to
get it closed in enough we can open up that exterior wall to be able to
see what will run into.

Similar issue with the idea of replacing the on-off of the entry way
with 3-way in the same location excepting it has the additional question
of whether there is (and I doubt there is) the needed 3-wires to the
present location/fixture from the main panel--it's in the basement and
it appears the feed went up the wall to the 2nd floor ceiling joists and
then out and in the attic space of the entry. That was doable when did
the major remodel 'cuz had all the exterior walls open to insulate so
had access to everything then...and, I'm just not interested enough to
make a major re-opening of all that just to pull that one wire.

And, of course, the interior wall is also still lath/plaster.

I could show you how to do it with 2 wires but it would be wrong ;-)

(The scheme involves switching the neutral)

OK, got far enough yesterday to be able to uncover the weather wrap over
the interior wall so can see where the cables were run previously...and
what's there.

There are the two 3-wire for the multiply-switched locations and then
two 2-wire for the two lights that are singly-switched (entry and porch
been discussing that are just stuck through the wall sheathing above the
wide door header. There's sufficient length since they ran across the
ceiling down the outside wall by the entry door to reach over the header
to the new closet area through that original wall where can put the
junction box, then continue from there through the new framing to
similar location on the new wall. Will have to cut the exterior
sheathing to get access to run thru studs over the header but can see
enough to see it is feasible.

QUESTION:

SWMBO has decided now she would like ceiling fan/light in this entry in
place of what was just the light. Never had one, never wired one for
anybody else and don't yet have the unit in hand to inspect...

Am thinking would be nice to be able to just have normal on-off switch
just for the light at the exterior door (where original light switch was
in a gang of four box) and then, for convenience, mount the Hunter
switch that lets one control fan/light at the inside wall location so
wouldn't have to walk all the way to the door. (Being a relatively
small space, couldn't find a small unit with remote, the switch was best
found).

I'm trying to figure out if I can parallel that switch w/ a conventional
on for the light alone just as the entrance/egress control when only
need the light...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hunter-All-Fan-3-Speed-Fan-Light-Dual-Slide-Ceiling-Fan-Switch-27182/202033443

If you'd care to think about that while I'm doing demo work...

As long as it is just a switch loop, I don't see a problem.


As long as you're not expecting to be able to turn it off from either location. If they are just parallel spst, you have to turn it off at the one that is turned on.

On 6/22/2019 2:37 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, June 22, 2019 at 12:48:32 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Jun 2019 10:56:48 -0500, dpb wrote:
....

QUESTION:

SWMBO has decided now she would like ceiling fan/light in this entry in
place of what was just the light. Never had one, never wired one for
anybody else and don't yet have the unit in hand to inspect...

Am thinking would be nice to be able to just have normal on-off switch
just for the light at the exterior door (where original light switch was
in a gang of four box) and then, for convenience, mount the Hunter
switch that lets one control fan/light at the inside wall location so
wouldn't have to walk all the way to the door. (Being a relatively
small space, couldn't find a small unit with remote, the switch was best
found).

I'm trying to figure out if I can parallel that switch w/ a conventional
on for the light alone just as the entrance/egress control when only
need the light...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hunter-All-Fan-3-Speed-Fan-Light-Dual-Slide-Ceiling-Fan-Switch-27182/202033443

If you'd care to think about that while I'm doing demo work...

As long as it is just a switch loop, I don't see a problem.


As long as you're not expecting to be able to turn it off from either
location. If they are just parallel spst, you have to turn it off at
the one that is turned on.
AH--yes, hadn't really thought about it that much, just got started
thinking couldn't mount that control switch along with the others in the
ganged box w/o creating custom cover which got me to thinking of the two
instead.

I'll have to think on this a little more...it would certainly be more
convenient to have the 3-way setup. If nothing else, not use the Hunter
wall control but revert to the pull chains to change from the default
speed settings, etc.

--


--

On Saturday, June 22, 2019 at 4:20:20 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/22/2019 2:37 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, June 22, 2019 at 12:48:32 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Jun 2019 10:56:48 -0500, dpb wrote:
...

QUESTION:

SWMBO has decided now she would like ceiling fan/light in this entry in
place of what was just the light. Never had one, never wired one for
anybody else and don't yet have the unit in hand to inspect...

Am thinking would be nice to be able to just have normal on-off switch
just for the light at the exterior door (where original light switch was
in a gang of four box) and then, for convenience, mount the Hunter
switch that lets one control fan/light at the inside wall location so
wouldn't have to walk all the way to the door. (Being a relatively
small space, couldn't find a small unit with remote, the switch was best
found).

I'm trying to figure out if I can parallel that switch w/ a conventional
on for the light alone just as the entrance/egress control when only
need the light...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hunter-All-Fan-3-Speed-Fan-Light-Dual-Slide-Ceiling-Fan-Switch-27182/202033443

If you'd care to think about that while I'm doing demo work...

As long as it is just a switch loop, I don't see a problem.


As long as you're not expecting to be able to turn it off from either
location. If they are just parallel spst, you have to turn it off at
the one that is turned on.
AH--yes, hadn't really thought about it that much, just got started
thinking couldn't mount that control switch along with the others in the
ganged box w/o creating custom cover which got me to thinking of the two
instead.

I'll have to think on this a little more...it would certainly be more
convenient to have the 3-way setup. If nothing else, not use the Hunter
wall control but revert to the pull chains to change from the default
speed settings, etc.


You can mount two separate boxes, one for the fan control, the other for
the light switches, nothing wrong with that. I'd strongly prefer using
a remote, instead of pull switches, but to each his own. They have wall
brackets for the remote. You could put that on the wall near the other
light switches and it would look very normal.

On 6/23/2019 8:17 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, June 22, 2019 at 4:20:20 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/22/2019 2:37 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, June 22, 2019 at 12:48:32 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Jun 2019 10:56:48 -0500, dpb wrote:
...

QUESTION:

SWMBO has decided now she would like ceiling fan/light in this entry in
place of what was just the light. Never had one, never wired one for
anybody else and don't yet have the unit in hand to inspect...

Am thinking would be nice to be able to just have normal on-off switch
just for the light at the exterior door (where original light switch was
in a gang of four box) and then, for convenience, mount the Hunter
switch that lets one control fan/light at the inside wall location so
wouldn't have to walk all the way to the door. (Being a relatively
small space, couldn't find a small unit with remote, the switch was best
found).

I'm trying to figure out if I can parallel that switch w/ a conventional
on for the light alone just as the entrance/egress control when only
need the light...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hunter-All-Fan-3-Speed-Fan-Light-Dual-Slide-Ceiling-Fan-Switch-27182/202033443

If you'd care to think about that while I'm doing demo work...

As long as it is just a switch loop, I don't see a problem.


As long as you're not expecting to be able to turn it off from either
location. If they are just parallel spst, you have to turn it off at
the one that is turned on.
AH--yes, hadn't really thought about it that much, just got started
thinking couldn't mount that control switch along with the others in the
ganged box w/o creating custom cover which got me to thinking of the two
instead.

I'll have to think on this a little more...it would certainly be more
convenient to have the 3-way setup. If nothing else, not use the Hunter
wall control but revert to the pull chains to change from the default
speed settings, etc.


You can mount two separate boxes, one for the fan control, the other for
the light switches, nothing wrong with that. I'd strongly prefer using
a remote, instead of pull switches, but to each his own. They have wall
brackets for the remote. You could put that on the wall near the other
light switches and it would look very normal.

Yeah, as I noted earlier in the long initial posting I looked but didn't
find a remote-enabled model that was small-enough fan diameter and that
SWMBO thought appropriate design (and I admit I didn't much like the
alternative design, either). Seemed as though Hunter figured if it was
smaller fan, remote wasn't likely to be wanted so weren't too many
choices. And, it was decreed it was going to be Hunter so there may
well be an ideal choice from some other vendor not in the hunt!

I was _intending_ to do no more in the new entry than restring the
original wiring back to its new location after rerouting the feeds to
the new junction box...this is now becoming something more so I'll have
to actually figure out how is better arrangement. There were already
four switches at that one location, adding two more begins to be quite a
control panel!

I did just discover there's a double 3-way switch configuration, though,
that I'd not known existed -- never seen one before so that could reduce
the box count/size even if not the actual number of switches if locals
have any...

--

On 6/23/19 9:03 AM, dpb wrote:

Yeah, as I noted earlier in the long initial posting I looked but didn't
find a remote-enabled model that was small-enough fan diameter and that
SWMBO thought appropriate design (and I admit I didn't much like the
alternative design, either).Â* Seemed as though Hunter figured if it was
smaller fan, remote wasn't likely to be wanted so weren't too many
choices.Â* And, it was decreed it was going to be Hunter so there may
well be an ideal choice from some other vendor not in the hunt!

I was _intending_ to do no more in the new entry than restring the
original wiring back to its new location after rerouting the feeds to
the new junction box...this is now becoming something more so I'll have
to actually figure out how is better arrangement.Â* There were already
four switches at that one location, adding two more begins to be quite a
control panel!Â*

I did just discover there's a double 3-way switch configuration, though,
that I'd not known existed -- never seen one before so that could reduce
the box count/size even if not the actual number of switches if locals
have any...

I'd just about bet someone was laying awake nights thinking about
your situation. I'd just about bet that someone has an aftermarket
remote control
for sale on Amazon or Ebay just waiting for you to fork over your hard
earned
dollars for that gizmo.

On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 6/23/19 9:03 AM, dpb wrote:

Yeah, as I noted earlier in the long initial posting I looked but didn't
find a remote-enabled model that was small-enough fan diameter and that
SWMBO thought appropriate design (and I admit I didn't much like the
alternative design, either).Â* Seemed as though Hunter figured if it was
smaller fan, remote wasn't likely to be wanted so weren't too many
choices.Â* And, it was decreed it was going to be Hunter so there may
well be an ideal choice from some other vendor not in the hunt!

I was _intending_ to do no more in the new entry than restring the
original wiring back to its new location after rerouting the feeds to
the new junction box...this is now becoming something more so I'll have
to actually figure out how is better arrangement.Â* There were already
four switches at that one location, adding two more begins to be quite a
control panel!Â*

I did just discover there's a double 3-way switch configuration, though,
that I'd not known existed -- never seen one before so that could reduce
the box count/size even if not the actual number of switches if locals
have any...

I'd just about bet someone was laying awake nights thinking about
your situation. I'd just about bet that someone has an aftermarket
remote control
for sale on Amazon or Ebay just waiting for you to fork over your hard
earned
dollars for that gizmo.

Good idea. I remember seeing one, an electronics module that goes into
the fan base wiring area and a remote.

On 6/23/2019 11:03 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 6/23/19 9:03 AM, dpb wrote:

Yeah, as I noted earlier in the long initial posting I looked but didn't
find a remote-enabled model that was small-enough fan diameter and that
SWMBO thought appropriate design (and I admit I didn't much like the
alternative design, either).Â* Seemed as though Hunter figured if it was
smaller fan, remote wasn't likely to be wanted so weren't too many
choices.Â* And, it was decreed it was going to be Hunter so there may
well be an ideal choice from some other vendor not in the hunt!

I was _intending_ to do no more in the new entry than restring the
original wiring back to its new location after rerouting the feeds to
the new junction box...this is now becoming something more so I'll have
to actually figure out how is better arrangement.Â* There were already
four switches at that one location, adding two more begins to be quite a
control panel!Â*

I did just discover there's a double 3-way switch configuration, though,
that I'd not known existed -- never seen one before so that could reduce
the box count/size even if not the actual number of switches if locals
have any...

I'd just about bet someone was laying awake nights thinking about
your situation. I'd just about bet that someone has an aftermarket
remote control
for sale on Amazon or Ebay just waiting for you to fork over your hard
earned
dollars for that gizmo.

Good idea. I remember seeing one, an electronics module that goes into
the fan base wiring area and a remote.

Actually, I see that Hunter does have one as well as some others by
Leviton, Lutron, etc., ... still trying to did into the specifics
sufficiently to understand just what would need and how would interact
to the mechanicals if they could co-exist peacefully.

In doing this, I discovered that the Hunter mechanical switch I order
apparently really sucks for longevity so if end up that route looks like
will be sending it back in lieu of equivalent from Lutron or somebody
that knows how to build a switch.

The search/saga continues...

Does seem like common-enough of a problem there ought to be a zillion
ready-made solutions and "how-to" links but so far all I have found are
just conventional solutions with a single wired location or a single
remote as being common. Have discovered that there are some Lutron
3-way controls; what I've yet to find is whether there is a dual-control
unit in a single module or you have to have two of them, too, one for
the light; one for the fan. Their specification book is _exceedingly_
difficult to peruse; there are no links to anything, just page up/down
in it and then now links to the product sheets to find out any details
when you think you may have something interesting...

--

On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 12:57:58 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2019 11:03 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 6/23/19 9:03 AM, dpb wrote:

Yeah, as I noted earlier in the long initial posting I looked but didn't
find a remote-enabled model that was small-enough fan diameter and that
SWMBO thought appropriate design (and I admit I didn't much like the
alternative design, either).Â* Seemed as though Hunter figured if it was
smaller fan, remote wasn't likely to be wanted so weren't too many
choices.Â* And, it was decreed it was going to be Hunter so there may
well be an ideal choice from some other vendor not in the hunt!

I was _intending_ to do no more in the new entry than restring the
original wiring back to its new location after rerouting the feeds to
the new junction box...this is now becoming something more so I'll have
to actually figure out how is better arrangement.Â* There were already
four switches at that one location, adding two more begins to be quite a
control panel!Â*

I did just discover there's a double 3-way switch configuration, though,
that I'd not known existed -- never seen one before so that could reduce
the box count/size even if not the actual number of switches if locals
have any...

I'd just about bet someone was laying awake nights thinking about
your situation. I'd just about bet that someone has an aftermarket
remote control
for sale on Amazon or Ebay just waiting for you to fork over your hard
earned
dollars for that gizmo.

Good idea. I remember seeing one, an electronics module that goes into
the fan base wiring area and a remote.

Actually, I see that Hunter does have one as well as some others by
Leviton, Lutron, etc., ... still trying to did into the specifics
sufficiently to understand just what would need and how would interact
to the mechanicals if they could co-exist peacefully.

In doing this, I discovered that the Hunter mechanical switch I order
apparently really sucks for longevity so if end up that route looks like
will be sending it back in lieu of equivalent from Lutron or somebody
that knows how to build a switch.

The search/saga continues...

Does seem like common-enough of a problem there ought to be a zillion
ready-made solutions and "how-to" links but so far all I have found are
just conventional solutions with a single wired location or a single
remote as being common. Have discovered that there are some Lutron
3-way controls; what I've yet to find is whether there is a dual-control
unit in a single module or you have to have two of them, too, one for
the light; one for the fan. Their specification book is _exceedingly_
difficult to peruse; there are no links to anything, just page up/down
in it and then now links to the product sheets to find out any details
when you think you may have something interesting...

--

This would seem to meet the design requirements:


https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQ.../dp/B0017O6YOE

On 6/23/2019 12:06 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 12:57:58 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2019 11:03 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 6/23/19 9:03 AM, dpb wrote:

Yeah, as I noted earlier in the long initial posting I looked but didn't
find a remote-enabled model that was small-enough fan diameter and that
SWMBO thought appropriate design (and I admit I didn't much like the
alternative design, either).Â* Seemed as though Hunter figured if it was
smaller fan, remote wasn't likely to be wanted so weren't too many
choices.Â* And, it was decreed it was going to be Hunter so there may
well be an ideal choice from some other vendor not in the hunt!

I was _intending_ to do no more in the new entry than restring the
original wiring back to its new location after rerouting the feeds to
the new junction box...this is now becoming something more so I'll have
to actually figure out how is better arrangement.Â* There were already
four switches at that one location, adding two more begins to be quite a
control panel!Â*

I did just discover there's a double 3-way switch configuration, though,
that I'd not known existed -- never seen one before so that could reduce
the box count/size even if not the actual number of switches if locals
have any...

I'd just about bet someone was laying awake nights thinking about
your situation. I'd just about bet that someone has an aftermarket
remote control
for sale on Amazon or Ebay just waiting for you to fork over your hard
earned
dollars for that gizmo.

Good idea. I remember seeing one, an electronics module that goes into
the fan base wiring area and a remote.

Actually, I see that Hunter does have one as well as some others by
Leviton, Lutron, etc., ... still trying to did into the specifics
sufficiently to understand just what would need and how would interact
to the mechanicals if they could co-exist peacefully.

In doing this, I discovered that the Hunter mechanical switch I order
apparently really sucks for longevity so if end up that route looks like
will be sending it back in lieu of equivalent from Lutron or somebody
that knows how to build a switch.

The search/saga continues...

Does seem like common-enough of a problem there ought to be a zillion
ready-made solutions and "how-to" links but so far all I have found are
just conventional solutions with a single wired location or a single
remote as being common. Have discovered that there are some Lutron
3-way controls; what I've yet to find is whether there is a dual-control
unit in a single module or you have to have two of them, too, one for
the light; one for the fan. Their specification book is _exceedingly_
difficult to peruse; there are no links to anything, just page up/down
in it and then now links to the product sheets to find out any details
when you think you may have something interesting...

--

This would seem to meet the design requirements:


https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQ.../dp/B0017O6YOE

Man, thought you had found gold for a minute!!!

But, from the (very) fine print product description:

"... For use with Incandescent or Halogen Lighting only. Not for use
with Flourescent, CFL, LED, or other lighting options."

and I have already ordered the LED lighting kit version which seems like
something one wouldn't want to regress from this day and age.

--

On 6/23/2019 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2019 12:06 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 12:57:58 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2019 11:03 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 6/23/19 9:03 AM, dpb wrote:

Yeah, as I noted earlier in the long initial posting I looked but
didn't
find a remote-enabled model that was small-enough fan diameter and
that
SWMBO thought appropriate design (and I admit I didn't much like the
alternative design, either).Â* Seemed as though Hunter figured if
it was
smaller fan, remote wasn't likely to be wanted so weren't too many
choices.Â* And, it was decreed it was going to be Hunter so there may
well be an ideal choice from some other vendor not in the hunt!

I was _intending_ to do no more in the new entry than restring the
original wiring back to its new location after rerouting the feeds to
the new junction box...this is now becoming something more so I'll
have
to actually figure out how is better arrangement.Â* There were already
four switches at that one location, adding two more begins to be
quite a
control panel!Â*

I did just discover there's a double 3-way switch configuration,
though,
that I'd not known existed -- never seen one before so that could
reduce
the box count/size even if not the actual number of switches if
locals
have any...

Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* I'd just about bet someone was laying awake nights
thinking about
your situation.Â* I'd just about bet that someone has an aftermarket
remote control
for sale on Amazon or Ebay just waiting for you to fork over your hard
earned
dollars for that gizmo.

Good idea.Â* I remember seeing one, an electronics module that goes into
the fan base wiring area and a remote.

Actually, I see that Hunter does have one as well as some others by
Leviton, Lutron, etc., ... still trying to did into the specifics
sufficiently to understand just what would need and how would interact
to the mechanicals if they could co-exist peacefully.

In doing this, I discovered that the Hunter mechanical switch I order
apparently really sucks for longevity so if end up that route looks like
will be sending it back in lieu of equivalent from Lutron or somebody
that knows how to build a switch.

The search/saga continues...

Does seem like common-enough of a problem there ought to be a zillion
ready-made solutions and "how-to" links but so far all I have found are
just conventional solutions with a single wired location or a single
remote as being common.Â* Have discovered that there are some Lutron
3-way controls; what I've yet to find is whether there is a dual-control
unit in a single module or you have to have two of them, too, one for
the light; one for the fan.Â* Their specification book is _exceedingly_
difficult to peruse; there are no links to anything, just page up/down
in it and then now links to the product sheets to find out any details
when you think you may have something interesting...

--

This would seem to meet the design requirements:


https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQ.../dp/B0017O6YOE


Man, thought you had found gold for a minute!!!Â*

But, from the (very) fine print product description:

"... For use with Incandescent or Halogen Lighting only. Not for use
with Flourescent, CFL, LED, or other lighting options."

and I have already ordered the LED lighting kit version which seems like
something one wouldn't want to regress from this day and age.

PS. Right now I was just trying to figure out something that could make
work that I could use to figure out how many wires I need to pull
where...at this point I'm not yet even sure enough about that to finish
rough in.

I've got to go do what else I can get done; spent all morning and got
nothing actually accomplished towards objective...

--

On 6/23/2019 11:03 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
....

I'd just about bet someone was laying awake nights thinking about
your situation. I'd just about bet that someone has an aftermarket
remote control
for sale on Amazon or Ebay just waiting for you to fork over your hard
earned
dollars for that gizmo.

Good idea. I remember seeing one, an electronics module that goes into
the fan base wiring area and a remote.


https://s7d5.scene7.com/is/content/HunterFan/M0126pdf

What I've been unable to convince myself is whether I could put this on
the wall in the dining room independently of the two conventionally
wired 3-way switches to control the light/fan on-off to be able just
turn everything off on leaving the house/the light on coming back in
while controlling the fan speed, etc., from the other location. With
that, I'd be happy.

--

On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 1:18:33 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2019 12:06 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 12:57:58 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2019 11:03 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 6/23/19 9:03 AM, dpb wrote:

Yeah, as I noted earlier in the long initial posting I looked but didn't
find a remote-enabled model that was small-enough fan diameter and that
SWMBO thought appropriate design (and I admit I didn't much like the
alternative design, either).Â* Seemed as though Hunter figured if it was
smaller fan, remote wasn't likely to be wanted so weren't too many
choices.Â* And, it was decreed it was going to be Hunter so there may
well be an ideal choice from some other vendor not in the hunt!

I was _intending_ to do no more in the new entry than restring the
original wiring back to its new location after rerouting the feeds to
the new junction box...this is now becoming something more so I'll have
to actually figure out how is better arrangement.Â* There were already
four switches at that one location, adding two more begins to be quite a
control panel!Â*

I did just discover there's a double 3-way switch configuration, though,
that I'd not known existed -- never seen one before so that could reduce
the box count/size even if not the actual number of switches if locals
have any...

I'd just about bet someone was laying awake nights thinking about
your situation. I'd just about bet that someone has an aftermarket
remote control
for sale on Amazon or Ebay just waiting for you to fork over your hard
earned
dollars for that gizmo.

Good idea. I remember seeing one, an electronics module that goes into
the fan base wiring area and a remote.

Actually, I see that Hunter does have one as well as some others by
Leviton, Lutron, etc., ... still trying to did into the specifics
sufficiently to understand just what would need and how would interact
to the mechanicals if they could co-exist peacefully.

In doing this, I discovered that the Hunter mechanical switch I order
apparently really sucks for longevity so if end up that route looks like
will be sending it back in lieu of equivalent from Lutron or somebody
that knows how to build a switch.

The search/saga continues...

Does seem like common-enough of a problem there ought to be a zillion
ready-made solutions and "how-to" links but so far all I have found are
just conventional solutions with a single wired location or a single
remote as being common. Have discovered that there are some Lutron
3-way controls; what I've yet to find is whether there is a dual-control
unit in a single module or you have to have two of them, too, one for
the light; one for the fan. Their specification book is _exceedingly_
difficult to peruse; there are no links to anything, just page up/down
in it and then now links to the product sheets to find out any details
when you think you may have something interesting...

--

This would seem to meet the design requirements:


https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQ.../dp/B0017O6YOE

Man, thought you had found gold for a minute!!!

But, from the (very) fine print product description:

"... For use with Incandescent or Halogen Lighting only. Not for use
with Flourescent, CFL, LED, or other lighting options."

and I have already ordered the LED lighting kit version which seems like
something one wouldn't want to regress from this day and age.

--

I would search and/or contact Lutron. You'd think they'd have a product
for LED too. I know they have products that are even targeted for
dimming magnetic vs switching power supply type loads. The LEDs would
be switching power supply type. That Maestro stuff is nice and cool,
I've used it. You can do dimming from as many separate locations as
you want or even with a wireless remote. They communicate on a single
wire between switches. Some of them have a button that you can press,
which starts off a series of tiny increasing LEDs on the switch that show
how many seconds before it turns off the lights. The idea is you can
set a delay so you can exit the area. Then the lights slowly dim and
go out.

On 6/23/2019 12:32 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 1:18:33 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2019 12:06 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 12:57:58 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2019 11:03 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 6/23/19 9:03 AM, dpb wrote:

Yeah, as I noted earlier in the long initial posting I looked but didn't
find a remote-enabled model that was small-enough fan diameter and that
SWMBO thought appropriate design (and I admit I didn't much like the
alternative design, either).Â* Seemed as though Hunter figured if it was
smaller fan, remote wasn't likely to be wanted so weren't too many
choices.Â* And, it was decreed it was going to be Hunter so there may
well be an ideal choice from some other vendor not in the hunt!

I was _intending_ to do no more in the new entry than restring the
original wiring back to its new location after rerouting the feeds to
the new junction box...this is now becoming something more so I'll have
to actually figure out how is better arrangement.Â* There were already
four switches at that one location, adding two more begins to be quite a
control panel!Â*

I did just discover there's a double 3-way switch configuration, though,
that I'd not known existed -- never seen one before so that could reduce
the box count/size even if not the actual number of switches if locals
have any...

I'd just about bet someone was laying awake nights thinking about
your situation. I'd just about bet that someone has an aftermarket
remote control
for sale on Amazon or Ebay just waiting for you to fork over your hard
earned
dollars for that gizmo.

Good idea. I remember seeing one, an electronics module that goes into
the fan base wiring area and a remote.

Actually, I see that Hunter does have one as well as some others by
Leviton, Lutron, etc., ... still trying to did into the specifics
sufficiently to understand just what would need and how would interact
to the mechanicals if they could co-exist peacefully.

In doing this, I discovered that the Hunter mechanical switch I order
apparently really sucks for longevity so if end up that route looks like
will be sending it back in lieu of equivalent from Lutron or somebody
that knows how to build a switch.

The search/saga continues...

Does seem like common-enough of a problem there ought to be a zillion
ready-made solutions and "how-to" links but so far all I have found are
just conventional solutions with a single wired location or a single
remote as being common. Have discovered that there are some Lutron
3-way controls; what I've yet to find is whether there is a dual-control
unit in a single module or you have to have two of them, too, one for
the light; one for the fan. Their specification book is _exceedingly_
difficult to peruse; there are no links to anything, just page up/down
in it and then now links to the product sheets to find out any details
when you think you may have something interesting...

--

This would seem to meet the design requirements:


https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQ.../dp/B0017O6YOE

Man, thought you had found gold for a minute!!!

But, from the (very) fine print product description:

"... For use with Incandescent or Halogen Lighting only. Not for use
with Flourescent, CFL, LED, or other lighting options."

and I have already ordered the LED lighting kit version which seems like
something one wouldn't want to regress from this day and age.

--

I would search and/or contact Lutron. You'd think they'd have a product
for LED too. I know they have products that are even targeted for
dimming magnetic vs switching power supply type loads. The LEDs would
be switching power supply type. That Maestro stuff is nice and cool,
I've used it. You can do dimming from as many separate locations as
you want or even with a wireless remote. They communicate on a single
wire between switches. Some of them have a button that you can press,
which starts off a series of tiny increasing LEDs on the switch that show
how many seconds before it turns off the lights. The idea is you can
set a delay so you can exit the area. Then the lights slowly dim and
go out.

Yeah, that's where I was with the previous lament regarding the product
specification online document being so hard to use...they do identify a
couple of possible product lines but I've not been able to get to the
detail spec sheets through the maze of the web site.

I was just in process of registering on the user support forum to pose a
question -- found several similar requests but not quite the same -- one
gal doing almost what we're doing except didn't have the light kit to
solve the LED issue.

Seems to be fairly responsive but if nothing I'll contact directly Monday.

--

On Sun, 23 Jun 2019 12:21:42 -0500, dpb wrote:

PS. Right now I was just trying to figure out something that could make
work that I could use to figure out how many wires I need to pull
where...at this point I'm not yet even sure enough about that to finish
rough in.
Smurf tube is your friend here, even if you just let it dangle inside
the wall.

On Sun, 23 Jun 2019 10:32:44 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 1:18:33 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2019 12:06 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 12:57:58 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2019 11:03 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 6/23/19 9:03 AM, dpb wrote:

Yeah, as I noted earlier in the long initial posting I looked but didn't
find a remote-enabled model that was small-enough fan diameter and that
SWMBO thought appropriate design (and I admit I didn't much like the
alternative design, either).Â* Seemed as though Hunter figured if it was
smaller fan, remote wasn't likely to be wanted so weren't too many
choices.Â* And, it was decreed it was going to be Hunter so there may
well be an ideal choice from some other vendor not in the hunt!

I was _intending_ to do no more in the new entry than restring the
original wiring back to its new location after rerouting the feeds to
the new junction box...this is now becoming something more so I'll have
to actually figure out how is better arrangement.Â* There were already
four switches at that one location, adding two more begins to be quite a
control panel!Â*

I did just discover there's a double 3-way switch configuration, though,
that I'd not known existed -- never seen one before so that could reduce
the box count/size even if not the actual number of switches if locals
have any...

I'd just about bet someone was laying awake nights thinking about
your situation. I'd just about bet that someone has an aftermarket
remote control
for sale on Amazon or Ebay just waiting for you to fork over your hard
earned
dollars for that gizmo.

Good idea. I remember seeing one, an electronics module that goes into
the fan base wiring area and a remote.

Actually, I see that Hunter does have one as well as some others by
Leviton, Lutron, etc., ... still trying to did into the specifics
sufficiently to understand just what would need and how would interact
to the mechanicals if they could co-exist peacefully.

In doing this, I discovered that the Hunter mechanical switch I order
apparently really sucks for longevity so if end up that route looks like
will be sending it back in lieu of equivalent from Lutron or somebody
that knows how to build a switch.

The search/saga continues...

Does seem like common-enough of a problem there ought to be a zillion
ready-made solutions and "how-to" links but so far all I have found are
just conventional solutions with a single wired location or a single
remote as being common. Have discovered that there are some Lutron
3-way controls; what I've yet to find is whether there is a dual-control
unit in a single module or you have to have two of them, too, one for
the light; one for the fan. Their specification book is _exceedingly_
difficult to peruse; there are no links to anything, just page up/down
in it and then now links to the product sheets to find out any details
when you think you may have something interesting...

--

This would seem to meet the design requirements:


https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQ.../dp/B0017O6YOE

Man, thought you had found gold for a minute!!!

But, from the (very) fine print product description:

"... For use with Incandescent or Halogen Lighting only. Not for use
with Flourescent, CFL, LED, or other lighting options."

and I have already ordered the LED lighting kit version which seems like
something one wouldn't want to regress from this day and age.

--

I would search and/or contact Lutron. You'd think they'd have a product
for LED too. I know they have products that are even targeted for
dimming magnetic vs switching power supply type loads. The LEDs would
be switching power supply type. That Maestro stuff is nice and cool,
I've used it. You can do dimming from as many separate locations as
you want or even with a wireless remote. They communicate on a single
wire between switches. Some of them have a button that you can press,
which starts off a series of tiny increasing LEDs on the switch that show
how many seconds before it turns off the lights. The idea is you can
set a delay so you can exit the area. Then the lights slowly dim and
go out.

They have a pretty good catalog online and once you get the model
number(s) that work for you it is easy to find someone happy to sell
you some.

On Sun, 23 Jun 2019 12:38:20 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/23/2019 12:32 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 1:18:33 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2019 12:06 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 12:57:58 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2019 11:03 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 6/23/19 9:03 AM, dpb wrote:

Yeah, as I noted earlier in the long initial posting I looked but didn't
find a remote-enabled model that was small-enough fan diameter and that
SWMBO thought appropriate design (and I admit I didn't much like the
alternative design, either).Â* Seemed as though Hunter figured if it was
smaller fan, remote wasn't likely to be wanted so weren't too many
choices.Â* And, it was decreed it was going to be Hunter so there may
well be an ideal choice from some other vendor not in the hunt!

I was _intending_ to do no more in the new entry than restring the
original wiring back to its new location after rerouting the feeds to
the new junction box...this is now becoming something more so I'll have
to actually figure out how is better arrangement.Â* There were already
four switches at that one location, adding two more begins to be quite a
control panel!Â*

I did just discover there's a double 3-way switch configuration, though,
that I'd not known existed -- never seen one before so that could reduce
the box count/size even if not the actual number of switches if locals
have any...

I'd just about bet someone was laying awake nights thinking about
your situation. I'd just about bet that someone has an aftermarket
remote control
for sale on Amazon or Ebay just waiting for you to fork over your hard
earned
dollars for that gizmo.

Good idea. I remember seeing one, an electronics module that goes into
the fan base wiring area and a remote.

Actually, I see that Hunter does have one as well as some others by
Leviton, Lutron, etc., ... still trying to did into the specifics
sufficiently to understand just what would need and how would interact
to the mechanicals if they could co-exist peacefully.

In doing this, I discovered that the Hunter mechanical switch I order
apparently really sucks for longevity so if end up that route looks like
will be sending it back in lieu of equivalent from Lutron or somebody
that knows how to build a switch.

The search/saga continues...

Does seem like common-enough of a problem there ought to be a zillion
ready-made solutions and "how-to" links but so far all I have found are
just conventional solutions with a single wired location or a single
remote as being common. Have discovered that there are some Lutron
3-way controls; what I've yet to find is whether there is a dual-control
unit in a single module or you have to have two of them, too, one for
the light; one for the fan. Their specification book is _exceedingly_
difficult to peruse; there are no links to anything, just page up/down
in it and then now links to the product sheets to find out any details
when you think you may have something interesting...

--

This would seem to meet the design requirements:


https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQ.../dp/B0017O6YOE

Man, thought you had found gold for a minute!!!

But, from the (very) fine print product description:

"... For use with Incandescent or Halogen Lighting only. Not for use
with Flourescent, CFL, LED, or other lighting options."

and I have already ordered the LED lighting kit version which seems like
something one wouldn't want to regress from this day and age.

--

I would search and/or contact Lutron. You'd think they'd have a product
for LED too. I know they have products that are even targeted for
dimming magnetic vs switching power supply type loads. The LEDs would
be switching power supply type. That Maestro stuff is nice and cool,
I've used it. You can do dimming from as many separate locations as
you want or even with a wireless remote. They communicate on a single
wire between switches. Some of them have a button that you can press,
which starts off a series of tiny increasing LEDs on the switch that show
how many seconds before it turns off the lights. The idea is you can
set a delay so you can exit the area. Then the lights slowly dim and
go out.

Yeah, that's where I was with the previous lament regarding the product
specification online document being so hard to use...they do identify a
couple of possible product lines but I've not been able to get to the
detail spec sheets through the maze of the web site.

I was just in process of registering on the user support forum to pose a
question -- found several similar requests but not quite the same -- one
gal doing almost what we're doing except didn't have the light kit to
solve the LED issue.

Seems to be fairly responsive but if nothing I'll contact directly Monday.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-dimmable-Incandescent-Single-Pole-MACL-LFQ-WH/dp/B077XDB8FV/ref=pd_cp_60_1?pd_rd_w=XrzwL&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=10V6V4EJCW8269E9T2BD&pd_rd_r= e423e679-95e8-11e9-a0f4-67c6be24e7f6&pd_rd_wg=Gg1jv&pd_rd_i=B077XDB8FV&psc =1&refRID=10V6V4EJCW8269E9T2BD