Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.



I would bother with a screw extractor. Id just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

"Tim+" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

I would bother with a screw extractor. Id just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.

Yeah, thanks for that, thats what I meant about brain farts.

Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

I remove the brass plugs in padlocks (similar dia as pins in locks)with
a small commercially available easyout,but any time I have trouble I
make my own easy out by grinding a square taper on silver steel or file
tang or busted drill shank and hardening and tempering and tapping it
into a hole drilled in the screw and then turning

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

"FMurtz" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

I remove the brass plugs in padlocks (similar dia as pins in locks)with a
small commercially available easyout,but any time I have trouble I make my
own easy out by grinding a square taper on silver steel or file tang or
busted drill shank and hardening and tempering and tapping it into a hole
drilled in the screw and then turning

Yeah, good point.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Yes and then the shank would be a lot easier to extract from that half of
the case.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Tim+" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.



I would bother with a screw extractor. I'd just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On Thu, 28 Mar 2019 16:50:15 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:

Got one of these

Now that you got a firm foot in ahr (after some initial problems), will you
slowly pull out of uk.d-i-y, you ****ed up 85-year-old senile Ozzie troll?
Or will you troll in BOTH now as if there was no tomorrow? LMAO

--
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp addressing Rot Speed:
"You really are a clueless pillock."
MID:

On Thu, 28 Mar 2019 19:28:39 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


I would bother with a screw extractor. I¢d just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.

Yeah, thanks for that, that¢s what I meant about brain farts.

I believe he's talking about getting that damaged screw in your head out,
senile Rot. I, too, would just drill a hole in the middle!

--
Bill Wright to Rot Speed:
"That confirms my opinion that you are a despicable little ****."
MID:

On 28/03/2019 07:17, Tim+ wrote:
Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

I have used this sort of thing with success (this is the first link I
found on Amazon - you can probably get them cheaper)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D349G...i-a=B07D349GZ2

They are a bit different to the standard eazyout in that you don't have
to drill a hole, they just bite into whatever is left of the
phillips/posidrive/crosspoint recess



The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.



I would bother with a screw extractor. Id just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.

Tim



--
Chris B (News)

On Thu, 28 Mar 2019 20:41:10 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:

I remove the brass plugs in padlocks (similar dia as pins in locks)with a
small commercially available easyout,but any time I have trouble I make my
own easy out by grinding a square taper on silver steel or file tang or
busted drill shank and hardening and tempering and tapping it into a hole
drilled in the screw and then turning

Yeah, good point.

So, why don't you two Ozzie assholes spread your "wisdom" in some Ozzie ngs?
Let me guess, they don't like BOTH of you either! BG

--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID:

On 3/28/2019 12:50 AM, Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about
wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Â* It's plastic , it'll melt . Warm up a straight bit screwdriver just
enough to melt into the head , form a slot that way . Chill the driver
blade with an ice cube while in the new slot , turn it out . Or drill
the size of the screw shank and go buy a new clip from your local auto
parts house . It ain't worth a big investment in tools for a 39 cent
plastic clip .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On Thu, 28 Mar 2019 16:50:15 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:

Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.
You are joking, right?????
Just drill the sucker out. Its NYLON cor crying out loud!!!! you could
take it out with a hot coat hanger wire!

On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had excellent
results with standard machine screws. One end creates something like a
countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you reverse the bit and it
grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what drive
type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became a
true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off the
screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an EDM shop
when you break off the hardened extractor and are really screwed so to
speak.

On 03/28/2019 04:31 AM, Chris B wrote:
I have used this sort of thing with success (this is the first link I
found on Amazon - you can probably get them cheaper)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D349G...i-a=B07D349GZ2


They are a bit different to the standard eazyout in that you don't have
to drill a hole, they just bite into whatever is left of the
phillips/posidrive/crosspoint recess

In the states GrabIt extractors are about the same thing. I don't know
which way Australia goes or if they have their own version.

On 3/28/2019 8:48 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had
excellent results with standard machine screws. One end creates
something like a countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you
reverse the bit and it grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what drive
type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became a
true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off the
screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an EDM
shop when you break off the hardened extractor and are really screwed
so to speak.

* I read somewhere that alum will dissolve steel ... yup , just checked
it out , dissolves steel but doesn't affect aluminum .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 8:48 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had excellent
results with standard machine screws. One end creates something like a
countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you reverse the bit and it
grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what drive
type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became a
true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off the
screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an EDM shop
when you break off the hardened extractor and are really screwed so to
speak.

I read somewhere that alum will dissolve steel ... yup , just checked it
out , dissolves steel but doesn't affect aluminum .

Problem is that its head down in the car so not easy to dissolve
the broken extractor, the I spose it is unlikely to break with a
plastic screw. And the part the screw goes into is sheet metal
and just a small tab, not a hole is a metal plate.

Might be safer to just drill the plastic screw out I spose.

On 3/28/2019 9:41 PM, Jac Brown wrote:


"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 8:48 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had
excellent results with standard machine screws. One end creates
something like a countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you
reverse the bit and it grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what
drive type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became
a true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off
the screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an
EDM shop when you break off the hardened extractor and are really
screwed so to speak.

* I read somewhere that alum will dissolve steel ... yup , just
checked it out , dissolves steel but doesn't affect aluminum .

Problem is that its head down in the car so not easy to dissolve
the broken extractor, the I spose it is unlikely to break with a
plastic screw. And the part the screw goes into is sheet metal
and just a small tab, not a hole is a metal plate.

Might be safer to just drill the plastic screw out I spose.

* Or do as I suggested and use a heated screwdriver to form a slot .
That last post of mine was aimed more specifically at rbowman , as steel
screws are often broken off in aluminum parts on motorcycles . Not that
I know anything about motorcycles , I only have 4 right now . But then
Harleys vibrate so much that corrosion doesn't have a chance to form .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 13:41:09 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 8:48 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had excellent
results with standard machine screws. One end creates something like a
countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you reverse the bit and it
grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what drive
type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became a
true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off the
screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an EDM shop
when you break off the hardened extractor and are really screwed so to
speak.

I read somewhere that alum will dissolve steel ... yup , just checked it
out , dissolves steel but doesn't affect aluminum .

Problem is that its head down in the car so not easy to dissolve
the broken extractor, the I spose it is unlikely to break with a
plastic screw. And the part the screw goes into is sheet metal
and just a small tab, not a hole is a metal plate.

Might be safer to just drill the plastic screw out I spose.
Any other solution is "a solution looking for a problem"

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 9:41 PM, Jac Brown wrote:


"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 8:48 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had
excellent results with standard machine screws. One end creates
something like a countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you
reverse the bit and it grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what drive
type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became a
true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off the
screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an EDM shop
when you break off the hardened extractor and are really screwed so to
speak.

I read somewhere that alum will dissolve steel ... yup , just checked
it out , dissolves steel but doesn't affect aluminum .

Problem is that its head down in the car so not easy to dissolve
the broken extractor, the I spose it is unlikely to break with a
plastic screw. And the part the screw goes into is sheet metal
and just a small tab, not a hole is a metal plate.

Might be safer to just drill the plastic screw out I spose.

Or do as I suggested and use a heated screwdriver to form a slot .

Yeah, havent tried that but if it really is nylon as Clare proclaimed,
its unlikely to end up with much of a slot that way. It is pretty hard
plastic. I tried with the sharp end of a small rat tail file to see if I
could poke the metal into the plastic as FMurtz suggested but
I didn’t try heating it. I've paused for the moment waiting for an
extractor to show up and because I need to use the car
tomorrow and I have some beer brews to bottle today.

That last post of mine was aimed more specifically at rbowman , as steel
screws are often broken off in aluminum parts on motorcycles .

OK.

Not that I know anything about motorcycles , I only have 4 right now . But
then Harleys vibrate so much that corrosion doesn't have a chance to form
.

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 13:41:09 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 8:48 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had
excellent
results with standard machine screws. One end creates something like a
countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you reverse the bit and it
grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what drive
type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became a
true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off the
screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an EDM shop
when you break off the hardened extractor and are really screwed so to
speak.

I read somewhere that alum will dissolve steel ... yup , just checked
it
out , dissolves steel but doesn't affect aluminum .

Problem is that its head down in the car so not easy to dissolve
the broken extractor, the I spose it is unlikely to break with a
plastic screw. And the part the screw goes into is sheet metal
and just a small tab, not a hole is a metal plate.

Might be safer to just drill the plastic screw out I spose.

Any other solution is "a solution looking for a problem"

Couldn't put my hand on an electric drill short enough front
to back with a drill bit in it to fit so I gave up for the moment
until the extractor arrives. Don't have a hoist I can use.

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 13:41:09 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


Problem is that its head

The one big problem is your sick senile head, senile ****head!

--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID:

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 15:08:09 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


OK.

???????? Are you sick, or what, senile Rot? LOL

--
Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot:
"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID:

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 15:59:56 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rot Speed,
the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Any other solution is "a solution looking for a problem"

Couldn't put my hand on an electric drill short enough front
to back with a drill bit in it to fit so I gave up for the moment
until the extractor arrives. Don't have a hoist I can use.

The one solution to your problem is to change your nyms time and again, and
to find out which nym was actually killfiled by which poster, you
85-year-old, senile Ozzie pest! LOL

--
FredXX to Rot Speed:
"You are still an idiot and an embarrassment to your country. No wonder
we shippe the likes of you out of the British Isles. Perhaps stupidity
and criminality is inherited after all?"
Message-ID:

On 28/03/2019 07:17, Tim+ wrote:


I would bother with a screw extractor. Id just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.



Or heat up the end of the screwdriver with a blow torch and melt it out.


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 28/03/2019 07:17, Tim+ wrote:


I would bother with a screw extractor. Id just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.



Or heat up the end of the screwdriver with a blow torch and melt it out.

Not convinced that that would work if it really is nylon.

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 19:37:01 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:



Or heat up the end of the screwdriver with a blow torch and melt it out.

Not convinced that that would work if it really is nylon.

Solution: Just imagine someone ELSE would have started your thread and asked
your question ...you would INSTANTLY have ALL the answers!

Give it a try, senile Rot! It WILL work!

--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID:

On 28/03/2019 05:50, Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

Soldering iron if you want to muller the whole thing


--
To ban Christmas, simply give turkeys the vote.

On 29/03/2019 08:37, Jac Brown wrote:


"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 28/03/2019 07:17, Tim+ wrote:


I would bother with a screw extractor. Id just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.



Or heat up the end of the screwdriver with a blow torch and melt it out.

Not convinced that that would work if it really is nylon.

nylon melts easily



--
To ban Christmas, simply give turkeys the vote.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
On 28/03/2019 05:50, Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

Soldering iron if you want to muller the whole thing

Only have the weller and dont want to **** it up and its only a pointed tip
anyway.

Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.

--
Tekkie

On Friday, March 29, 2019 at 2:09:04 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.

--
Tekkie

+1

Or just drill it out, it's just a plastic body fastener, you can use
a drill as large or slightly larger than the screw, you don't care
about the body of the fastener, you get a new one. If he has a
reversible drill, could try it in reverse first, it might unscrew,
but not clear if it's stripped that's the problem.

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 03:42:27 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


Soldering iron if you want to muller the whole thing

Only have the weller and don¢t want to **** it up and its only a pointed tip
anyway.

You couldn't **** it up as you are ****ed up, you trolling senile Ozzie
pest!

--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID:

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 08:03:59 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 28/03/2019 07:17, Tim+ wrote:


I would bother with a screw extractor. I’d just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.



Or heat up the end of the screwdriver with a blow torch and melt it out.
Just grab the offending Scrivet with a nipping pliers and pop it out.
They are installed by PUSHING the pin in - the threads are just to
make it EASIER to remove

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 19:37:01 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 28/03/2019 07:17, Tim+ wrote:


I would bother with a screw extractor. I’d just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.



Or heat up the end of the screwdriver with a blow torch and melt it out.

Not convinced that that would work if it really is nylon.

Nylon melts at 269C or 516F. MOST but not all are nylon. Some are
even "glass filled" nylon

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:

Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.
You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and
pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are
inserted like a "push pin"

"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw

That wont work, its recessed.

or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.

That doesn't work either, again because its recessed.

Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the
cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long
with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist.

"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, March 29, 2019 at 2:09:04 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.

+1

Or just drill it out, it's just a plastic body fastener, you can use
a drill as large or slightly larger than the screw, you don't care
about the body of the fastener, you get a new one. If he has a
reversible drill, could try it in reverse first, it might unscrew,
but not clear if it's stripped that's the problem.

No its not stripped, the philips head hole is ****ed.

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 08:03:59 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 28/03/2019 07:17, Tim+ wrote:


I would bother with a screw extractor. I'd just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.



Or heat up the end of the screwdriver with a blow torch and melt it out.

Just grab the offending Scrivet with a nipping pliers and pop it out.

Not possible, its recessed.

They are installed by PUSHING the pin in

These ones arent. The outer end of what the screw goes into is threaded.

- the threads are just to
make it EASIER to remove

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:

Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before

I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.
You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and
pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are
inserted like a "push pin"

These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the
screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so
you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw
thru with a drift.

And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing
goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal
of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the
strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw
in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in.

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:04:22 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


Not

LOL Your favourite word, eh, senile auto-contradictor?

These ones arent.

Gosh, are you negative! LOL

--
Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot:
"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID: