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#41
Posted to alt.home.repair
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:54:31 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote: No Hahahahaaa!!! -- Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot: "Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)" MID: |
#42
Posted to uk.d-i-y,alt.home.repair
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote: That wont work LOL That doesn't work either LOL -- Sqwertz to Rot Speed: "This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative asshole. MID: |
#43
Posted to alt.home.repair
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote: These ones arent, what the screw screws What you REALLY need is to get that damaged screw out of your senile head, senile Rot! -- Norman Wells addressing senile Rot: "Ah, the voice of scum speaks." MID: |
#44
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
On 3/29/2019 4:54 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
.... No its not stripped,... So drill it out and try a screw extractor...or, as somebody else already said, make the drill as large as the hole it's in and you'll have essentially nothing left that can't just collapse and pull out... -- |
#45
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message .. . On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie wrote: Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56 The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are inserted like a "push pin" These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw thru with a drift. And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in. Trust me - I've installed and removed hundreds of them - and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver.Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying to tighten them too much strips the head out. Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out but easier to just drill the head off and drive it through with a pin-punch. With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out. We called them "scrivets" |
#46
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 19:12:56 -0500, dpb wrote:
On 3/29/2019 4:54 PM, Jac Brown wrote: ... No its not stripped,... So drill it out and try a screw extractor...or, as somebody else already said, make the drill as large as the hole it's in and you'll have essentially nothing left that can't just collapse and pull out... You are all overthinking it. Drill the head off, punch the screw body through, and remove the clip. Insertion does NOT require turning the screw and with the head drilled off you can poke the screw through with a small punch or even an awl. |
#47
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
"Clare Snyder" wrote in message ... On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message . .. On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie wrote: Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56 The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are inserted like a "push pin" These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw thru with a drift. And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in. Trust me - No thanks. I've installed and removed hundreds of them Not in this car in this position in the car you havent. and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver. Not possible in this case because that would bend the small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into goes into. And no way to put anything behind that tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car. Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying to tighten them too much strips the head out. Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out There is when the screw head is recessed and the philips socket is damaged enough so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little. but easier to just drill the head off and drive it through with a pin-punch. That wont work either, because again, that will just bend the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into. With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out. Yes. We called them "scrivets" Yes, but they arent all identical on the question of whether the screw screws in or is punched in. |
#48
Posted to alt.home.repair
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote: No LOL Not LOL Not LOL I just wonder how LONG it will still take these senile Yanks on ahr until they realize what's the matter with you, senile Rot. Don't you wonder too? LMAO -- Bill Wright addressing senile Ozzie cretin Rot Speed: "Well you make up a lot of stuff and it's total ******** most of it." MID: |
#49
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
On 3/30/19 2:11 AM, Jac Brown wrote:
There is when the screw head is recessed and the philips socket is damaged enough so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little. It's a security screw.* The manufacturer does not want that screw removed so they have made it impossible.* There are no user serviceable parts inside.* You'll need to take it to a factory authorized service center. |
#50
Posted to uk.d-i-y,alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote: "Tekkie" wrote in message ... Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56 The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw That wont work, its recessed. or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. That doesn't work either, again because its recessed. Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist. As someone else said, it's not a screw. The whole thing was inserted into the hole, then the top part pushed down to expand the bottom bits bigger than the hole they went through. If you try to turn the 'screw' it will just keep rotating without allowing the bottom bits to contract. As it's only plastic, I would try putting a screwdriver into it, then giving the screwdriver a hearty whack with a hammer to break the head of the 'screw'. -- Dave W |
#51
Posted to uk.d-i-y,alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
Dave W wrote:
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Tekkie®" wrote in message ... Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?tV The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw That wont work, its recessed. or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. That doesn't work either, again because its recessed. Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist. As someone else said, it's not a screw. Then why is it threaded and have a crosshead on it?? Its a fecking screw. You can get fasteners with a smooth sided pin that you push in to expand the legs but this one clearly has a plastic screw to wind in to expand them. Cant you see the threads? The whole thing was inserted into the hole, then the top part pushed down to expand the bottom bits bigger than the hole they went through. Not this one. If you try to turn the 'screw' it will just keep rotating without allowing the bottom bits to contract. Why would a pin have a crosshead to turn it to no effect? Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#52
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message ... On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie wrote: Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56 The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are inserted like a "push pin" These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw thru with a drift. And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in. Trust me - No thanks. I've installed and removed hundreds of them Not in this car in this position in the car you havent. and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver. Not possible in this case because that would bend the small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into goes into. And no way to put anything behind that tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car. Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying to tighten them too much strips the head out. Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out There is when the screw head is recessed and the philips socket is damaged enough so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little. but easier to just drill the head off and drive it through with a pin-punch. That wont work either, because again, that will just bend the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into. With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out. Yes. We called them "scrivets" Yes, but they arent all identical on the question of whether the screw screws in or is punched in. What are your qualifications to question how they work when you have to ask about using an easy out to remove them???? I am a mechanic with 50years experience,including installing and removing them in the very position and application you reference - just not on Mitto****ty cars. On Toyotas and Nissans and Mazdas - yes On Chevys and Fords too. The "nut" prtion is not solid. It has "fingers" that spread when you force the threaded pin in.. Knock the head off and punch it through. You have nothing to loose by trying. The metal tab is a lot stronger than the threads on the screw portion of your "scrivet" - even on a Mitso****ty. If the tab bends a little, just straighten it out with your fingers afterwards. Look at https://www.comdir.co.uk/scrivets-flush-head-type.html Or https://www.jetpress.com/Products.as...FlushHeadType/ Als see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKcKJ50Xdw and the installer tool designed to push in the "screw" https://www.assytool.com/sp-scrivet.php also see step 3 in : https://www.carid.com/images/trailfx...structions.pdf and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUECZAc1B-I Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw Or watch this guy fight with one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw Or you can go nuts like this guy - http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20100005640.pdf |
#53
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
On 3/30/2019 12:49 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 19:12:56 -0500, dpb wrote: On 3/29/2019 4:54 PM, Jac Brown wrote: ... No its not stripped,... So drill it out and try a screw extractor...or, as somebody else already said, make the drill as large as the hole it's in and you'll have essentially nothing left that can't just collapse and pull out... You are all overthinking it. Drill the head off, punch the screw body through, and remove the clip. Insertion does NOT require turning the screw and with the head drilled off you can poke the screw through with a small punch or even an awl. * Have you not yet figured out he doesn't really want a solution ? He's shot down at least half a dozen ideas that would work , he just wants to troll the group . Did you catch the post where he posted as Rod Speed , one of his other nyms ? -- Snag Yes , I'm old and crochety - and armed . Get outta my woods ! |
#54
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
On 30 Mar 2019 17:35:19 GMT, Tim+ wrote:
Dave W wrote: On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Tekkie" wrote in message ... Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?tV The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw That wont work, its recessed. or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. That doesn't work either, again because its recessed. Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist. As someone else said, it's not a screw. Then why is it threaded and have a crosshead on it?? Its a fecking screw. You can get fasteners with a smooth sided pin that you push in to expand the legs but this one clearly has a plastic screw to wind in to expand them. Cant you see the threads? The whole thing was inserted into the hole, then the top part pushed down to expand the bottom bits bigger than the hole they went through. Not this one. If you try to turn the 'screw' it will just keep rotating without allowing the bottom bits to contract. Why would a pin have a crosshead to turn it to no effect? Tim Take it from a mechanic who has installed and removed HUNDREDS of them. It is a "scrivet". Not a screw. The threads (and "screw head") are there to, theoretically, anyways, make it easier to remove them. They are NOT screwed in - they are PUSHED in. If someone tried to tightrn one with a screwdriver the threads are LIKELY damaged and no amount of counterclockwize turning will remove them. You need to either PULL the "screw" portion out or get the head off and push it through. They are considered to be "consumeables" - ior "single use fasteners". Yes - you CAN re-use them - they will just be more aggravating to get out the second time.Sometimes you get lucky and they will actually unthread - but consider THAT a BONUS. The "down and dirty" method of removal is to drive a sharp drywall screw into the head and yank the "pin" or "screw" or whatever you want to call it out with a pliers (or if you have thick skin on your fingers, by hand) |
#55
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
M. Possabull wrote
Jac Brown wrote There is when the screw head is recessed and the philips socket is damaged enough so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little. It's a security screw. The manufacturer does not want that screw removed so they have made it impossible. No its not, its brother along the same edge came out fine because the philips head hole wasnt damaged. Thats the one in the photo. There are no user serviceable parts inside. Yes there are, the windscreen washer bottle and pump for starters. You'll need to take it to a factory authorized service center. Wrong, as always. |
#56
Posted to uk.d-i-y,alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
"Dave W" wrote in message news On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Tekkie" wrote in message ... Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56 The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw That wont work, its recessed. or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. That doesn't work either, again because its recessed. Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist. As someone else said, it's not a screw. Yes it is you can see the thread if you zoom in. The whole thing was inserted into the hole, then the top part pushed down to expand the bottom bits bigger than the hole they went through. It works like that when you SCREW the screw in. If you try to turn the 'screw' it will just keep rotating without allowing the bottom bits to contract. Its brother close to it unscrewed fine, that's the one in the photo. As it's only plastic, I would try putting a screwdriver into it, then giving the screwdriver a hearty whack with a hammer to break the head of the 'screw'. That will just bend the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into. |
#57
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Getting a damaged screw out
On Saturday, March 30, 2019 at 3:16:29 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
https://www.google.com/search?q=scri...TF-8#kpvalbx=1 Or just search for scrivet removal video. |
#58
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Getting a damaged screw out
"Clare Snyder" wrote in message ... On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message . .. On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message m... On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie wrote: Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56 The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are inserted like a "push pin" These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw thru with a drift. And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in. Trust me - No thanks. I've installed and removed hundreds of them Not in this car in this position in the car you havent. and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver. Not possible in this case because that would bend the small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into goes into. And no way to put anything behind that tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car. Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying to tighten them too much strips the head out. Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out There is when the screw head is recessed and the philips socket is damaged enough so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little. but easier to just drill the head off and drive it through with a pin-punch. That wont work either, because again, that will just bend the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into. With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out. Yes. We called them "scrivets" Yes, but they arent all identical on the question of whether the screw screws in or is punched in. What are your qualifications to question how they work Don't need any qualifications for something as basic as that. when you have to ask about using an easy out to remove them???? I didn't have to, I chose to, in case someone could come up with an easier way of getting it out. I am a mechanic with 50years experience,including installing and removing them in the very position and application you reference - just not on Mitto****ty cars. On Toyotas and Nissans and Mazdas - yes On Chevys and Fords too. But who didn't even notice that the screw is threaded and has a philips head on it. There is no point in either if its just driven in instead of screwed in. And you clearly have no idea about the metal tab that it goes into which would just bend if it was driven in instead of screwed in. And you don't realise that there is no way to get a jaw around it to force it in that way because the inner jaw can't get past the cover that I am removing to get to the windscreen washer bottle. And it isnt a Mitto****ty car either. No warranty claims what so ever in the 5 year warranty and this is the only potential failure in the 13 years I have had it since new either. The "nut" prtion is not solid. It has "fingers" that spread when you force the threaded pin in.. Yes. Knock the head off Not possible, its recessed. and punch it through. That's going to bend the metal tab the whole thing goes into. and wont see the SCREW driven thru. It needs to come out the way it went in, which is why an extractor likely will work. You have nothing to loose by trying. The metal tab is a lot stronger than the threads on the screw portion of your "scrivet" Not in bending it isnt. - even on a Mitso****ty. If the tab bends a little, just straighten it out with your fingers afterwards. It wont just bend a little. Look at https://www.comdir.co.uk/scrivets-flush-head-type.html That is different to this one. Or https://www.jetpress.com/Products.as...FlushHeadType/ Doesn't work. Server Error in '/' Application. Runtime Error Description: An exception occurred while processing your request. Additionally, another exception occurred while executing the custom error page for the first exception. The request has been terminated. Als see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKcKJ50Xdw and the installer tool designed to push in the "screw" https://www.assytool.com/sp-scrivet.php Mine doesn't pull out as easily as that one and I can see that by trying to push out the screw on the one that I have remove because its philips head isnt wrecked. also see step 3 in : https://www.carid.com/images/trailfx...structions.pdf and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUECZAc1B-I That doesn't work with mine because you cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get the pliers under the head. Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw That one clearly shows that it is a screw and if its undamaged will screw out fine like my other one did, the one in the photo. And that one goes into a hole in the metal, mine doesn't. And mine doesn't push in on the one I removed like this one does even if you put it in a hole in a metal plate, it needs to be screwed in because it's a much tighter fit into the 'nut' than that one in the video. And with mine you can chisel the head off either because the whole thing is recessed into the plastic cover that it retains, it isnt proud like it is in that youtube. Or watch this guy fight with one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw That's the same video. Or you can go nuts like this guy - http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20100005640.pdf |
#59
Posted to alt.home.repair
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 06:16:38 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote: It's a security screw. The manufacturer does not want that screw removed so they have made it impossible. No its not LOL Did you just climax again, senile Rot? -- Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot: "Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)" MID: |
#60
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message ... On 3/30/2019 12:49 AM, Clare Snyder wrote: On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 19:12:56 -0500, dpb wrote: On 3/29/2019 4:54 PM, Jac Brown wrote: ... No its not stripped,... So drill it out and try a screw extractor...or, as somebody else already said, make the drill as large as the hole it's in and you'll have essentially nothing left that can't just collapse and pull out... You are all overthinking it. Drill the head off, punch the screw body through, and remove the clip. Insertion does NOT require turning the screw and with the head drilled off you can poke the screw through with a small punch or even an awl. Have you not yet figured out he doesn't really want a solution ? He's shot down at least half a dozen ideas that would work , No they wouldnt and I have said that two of them will work, using an extractor and drilling the entire screw out. he just wants to troll the group . There you go, face down in the mud, as always. When I get around to it I will post a photo with it out. Like I said in the original, it isnt urgent, its just the windscreen washer bottle behind that panel that needs some attention. |
#61
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 07:04:13 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote: What are your qualifications to question how they work Don't need any qualifications for something as basic as that. Those Yanks on ahr still don't know who they are dealing with, eh, senile Mr Know-it-all? Teach them a senile lesson, senile Rot! LOL FLUSH the rest of your usual idiotic drivel unread -- Sqwertz to Rot Speed: "This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative asshole. MID: |
#62
Posted to uk.d-i-y,alt.home.repair
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 06:21:10 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote: It works like that when you SCREW the screw in. I'd love to SCREW a screw deep into your senile head, Rot! -- Richard addressing Rot Speed: "**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll." MID: |
#63
Posted to uk.d-i-y,alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
Jac Brown wrote:
"Dave W" wrote in message news On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Tekkie®" wrote in message ... Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56 The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw That wont work, its recessed. or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. That doesn't work either, again because its recessed. Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist. As someone else said, it's not a screw. Yes it is you can see the thread if you zoom in. The whole thing was inserted into the hole, then the top part pushed down to expand the bottom bits bigger than the hole they went through. It works like that when you SCREW the screw in. If you try to turn the 'screw' it will just keep rotating without allowing the bottom bits to contract. Its brother close to it unscrewed fine, that's the one in the photo. As it's only plastic, I would try putting a screwdriver into it, then giving the screwdriver a hearty whack with a hammer to break the head of the 'screw'. That will just bend the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into. Heat a screwdriver up over a flame and melt it into the screw. Wait a short while for it to cool enough then unscrew. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#64
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 07:08:46 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote: Have you not yet figured out he doesn't really want a solution ? He's shot down at least half a dozen ideas that would work , No they wouldnt You are a ****ed up stupid troll, and that's it, senile Rot! FLUSH another load of your sick troll**** -- Richard addressing Rot Speed: "**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll." MID: |
#65
Posted to uk.d-i-y,alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
On 03/30/2019 11:35 AM, Tim+ wrote:
Its a fecking screw. You can get fasteners with a smooth sided pin that you push in to expand the legs but this one clearly has a plastic screw to wind in to expand them. With many of those you push the pin in further to release them. They are reusable after you reset the pin. |
#66
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 14:11:53 -0500, Terry Coombs
wrote: On 3/30/2019 12:49 AM, Clare Snyder wrote: On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 19:12:56 -0500, dpb wrote: On 3/29/2019 4:54 PM, Jac Brown wrote: ... No its not stripped,... So drill it out and try a screw extractor...or, as somebody else already said, make the drill as large as the hole it's in and you'll have essentially nothing left that can't just collapse and pull out... You are all overthinking it. Drill the head off, punch the screw body through, and remove the clip. Insertion does NOT require turning the screw and with the head drilled off you can poke the screw through with a small punch or even an awl. * Have you not yet figured out he doesn't really want a solution ? He's shot down at least half a dozen ideas that would work , he just wants to troll the group . Did you catch the post where he posted as Rod Speed , one of his other nyms ? No I didn't catch that But I was beginning to think he was a stubborn dumb cuss. |
#67
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 07:04:13 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message ... On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message om... On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie wrote: Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56 The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are inserted like a "push pin" These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw thru with a drift. And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in. Trust me - No thanks. I've installed and removed hundreds of them Not in this car in this position in the car you havent. and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver. Not possible in this case because that would bend the small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into goes into. And no way to put anything behind that tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car. Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying to tighten them too much strips the head out. Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out There is when the screw head is recessed and the philips socket is damaged enough so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little. but easier to just drill the head off and drive it through with a pin-punch. That wont work either, because again, that will just bend the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into. With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out. Yes. We called them "scrivets" Yes, but they arent all identical on the question of whether the screw screws in or is punched in. What are your qualifications to question how they work Don't need any qualifications for something as basic as that. It takes a brain - for one - and it needs to be open. You asked a question. You got answers - some no better than your own - and you got the answer from someonewho knows and has worked with the darn things for over 30 years (about as long as they have benn in commonuse) when you have to ask about using an easy out to remove them???? I didn't have to, I chose to, in case someone could come up with an easier way of getting it out. Which I've given you = an easy out would be one of the more difficult ways to get it out. I am a mechanic with 50years experience,including installing and removing them in the very position and application you reference - just not on Mitto****ty cars. On Toyotas and Nissans and Mazdas - yes On Chevys and Fords too. But who didn't even notice that the screw is threaded and has a philips head on it Damned right I did! There is no point in either if its just driven in instead of screwed in. And you clearly have no idea about the metal tab that it goes into which would just bend if it was driven in instead of screwed in. Yes I do. I've worked on hundreds of them. And you don't realise that there is no way to get a jaw around it to force it in that way because the inner jaw can't get past the cover that I am removing to get to the windscreen washer bottle. You are a CLUELESS idiot And it isnt a Mitto****ty car either. No warranty claims what so ever in the 5 year warranty and this is the only potential failure in the 13 years I have had it since new either. Every Mitsubishi is by definitiona Mitso****ty. The "nut" prtion is not solid. It has "fingers" that spread when you force the threaded pin in.. Yes. Knock the head off Not possible, its recessed. Dril it off then and punch it through. That's going to bend the metal tab the whole thing goes into. and wont see the SCREW driven thru. It needs to come out the way it went in, which is why an extractor likely will work. No - it wikk come out the way it went in - straight out the other side - and it doesn'r take a hammer either. You have nothing to loose by trying. The metal tab is a lot stronger than the threads on the screw portion of your "scrivet" Not in bending it isnt. - even on a Mitso****ty. If the tab bends a little, just straighten it out with your fingers afterwards. It wont just bend a little. Look at https://www.comdir.co.uk/scrivets-flush-head-type.html That is different to this one. Or https://www.jetpress.com/Products.as...FlushHeadType/ Doesn't work. Server Error in '/' Application. Runtime Error Description: An exception occurred while processing your request. Additionally, another exception occurred while executing the custom error page for the first exception. The request has been terminated. Als see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKcKJ50Xdw and the installer tool designed to push in the "screw" https://www.assytool.com/sp-scrivet.php Mine doesn't pull out as easily as that one and I can see that by trying to push out the screw on the one that I have remove because its philips head isnt wrecked. also see step 3 in : https://www.carid.com/images/trailfx...structions.pdf and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUECZAc1B-I That doesn't work with mine because you cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get the pliers under the head. Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw That one clearly shows that it is a screw and if its undamaged will screw out fine like my other one did, the one in the photo. And that one goes into a hole in the metal, mine doesn't. And mine doesn't push in on the one I removed like this one does even if you put it in a hole in a metal plate, it needs to be screwed in because it's a much tighter fit into the 'nut' than that one in the video. And with mine you can chisel the head off either because the whole thing is recessed into the plastic cover that it retains, it isnt proud like it is in that youtube. Or watch this guy fight with one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw That's the same video. Or you can go nuts like this guy - http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20100005640.pdf Go nuts. I'm done. |
#68
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
"Jac Brown" wrote in message ... "Clare Snyder" wrote in message ... On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message ... On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message om... On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie wrote: Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56 The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are inserted like a "push pin" These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw thru with a drift. And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in. Trust me - No thanks. I've installed and removed hundreds of them Not in this car in this position in the car you havent. and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver. Not possible in this case because that would bend the small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into goes into. And no way to put anything behind that tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car. Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying to tighten them too much strips the head out. Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out There is when the screw head is recessed and the philips socket is damaged enough so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little. but easier to just drill the head off and drive it through with a pin-punch. That wont work either, because again, that will just bend the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into. With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out. Yes. We called them "scrivets" Yes, but they arent all identical on the question of whether the screw screws in or is punched in. What are your qualifications to question how they work Don't need any qualifications for something as basic as that. when you have to ask about using an easy out to remove them???? I didn't have to, I chose to, in case someone could come up with an easier way of getting it out. I am a mechanic with 50years experience,including installing and removing them in the very position and application you reference - just not on Mitto****ty cars. On Toyotas and Nissans and Mazdas - yes On Chevys and Fords too. But who didn't even notice that the screw is threaded and has a philips head on it. There is no point in either if its just driven in instead of screwed in. And you clearly have no idea about the metal tab that it goes into which would just bend if it was driven in instead of screwed in. And you don't realise that there is no way to get a jaw around it to force it in that way because the inner jaw can't get past the cover that I am removing to get to the windscreen washer bottle. And it isnt a Mitto****ty car either. No warranty claims what so ever in the 5 year warranty and this is the only potential failure in the 13 years I have had it since new either. The "nut" prtion is not solid. It has "fingers" that spread when you force the threaded pin in.. Yes. Knock the head off Not possible, its recessed. and punch it through. That's going to bend the metal tab the whole thing goes into. and wont see the SCREW driven thru. It needs to come out the way it went in, which is why an extractor likely will work. You have nothing to loose by trying. The metal tab is a lot stronger than the threads on the screw portion of your "scrivet" Not in bending it isnt. - even on a Mitso****ty. If the tab bends a little, just straighten it out with your fingers afterwards. It wont just bend a little. Look at https://www.comdir.co.uk/scrivets-flush-head-type.html That is different to this one. Or https://www.jetpress.com/Products.as...FlushHeadType/ Doesn't work. Server Error in '/' Application. Runtime Error Description: An exception occurred while processing your request. Additionally, another exception occurred while executing the custom error page for the first exception. The request has been terminated. Als see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKcKJ50Xdw and the installer tool designed to push in the "screw" https://www.assytool.com/sp-scrivet.php Mine doesn't pull out as easily as that one and I can see that by trying to push out the screw on the one that I have remove because its philips head isnt wrecked. After playing with the undamaged one that screwed out fine, it turns out that it does in fact push in fine until the head stops it going in any further. And with that one lose it does in fact push out fine when you push on the inner end of the screw. And with it half unscrewed, you can in fact pull it out with your fingers. But with the damaged one it isnt that easy to get it out a little bit so you can grip the head with a pair of pliers and pull it out that way but it likely will be possible to leaver the head up enough with a flat screwdriver to be able to grip the head with a pair of pliers. Yes, drilling the head off and pushing the body of the screw thru would work but harder to do to drill the head off because of the limited distance from the head to the ground even with the car on the jack stands. A hot flat screwdriver should work to get a grip on the head to unscrew it. I don't have any drywall screws handy. I havent actually tried getting it out yet, still botting the 9 brew beer brewing run and doing other stuff. Likely will try it on Tuesday. Thanks for these links, it did get me fiddling with the loose good one. also see step 3 in : https://www.carid.com/images/trailfx...structions.pdf and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUECZAc1B-I That doesn't work with mine because you cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get the pliers under the head. Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw That one clearly shows that it is a screw and if its undamaged will screw out fine like my other one did, the one in the photo. And that one goes into a hole in the metal, mine doesn't. And mine doesn't push in on the one I removed like this one does even if you put it in a hole in a metal plate, it needs to be screwed in because it's a much tighter fit into the 'nut' than that one in the video. And with mine you can chisel the head off either because the whole thing is recessed into the plastic cover that it retains, it isnt proud like it is in that youtube. Or watch this guy fight with one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw That's the same video. Or you can go nuts like this guy - http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20100005640.pdf obscene gesture in Coombs' general direction |
#69
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
"Clare Snyder" wrote in message ... On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 07:04:13 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message . .. On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message m... On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message news:k82t9etsf11o36j2p4ujj2qqam22socch8@4ax. com... On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie wrote: Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56 The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are inserted like a "push pin" These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw thru with a drift. And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in. Trust me - No thanks. I've installed and removed hundreds of them Not in this car in this position in the car you havent. and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver. Not possible in this case because that would bend the small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into goes into. And no way to put anything behind that tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car. Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying to tighten them too much strips the head out. Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out There is when the screw head is recessed and the philips socket is damaged enough so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little. but easier to just drill the head off and drive it through with a pin-punch. That wont work either, because again, that will just bend the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into. With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out. Yes. We called them "scrivets" Yes, but they arent all identical on the question of whether the screw screws in or is punched in. What are your qualifications to question how they work Don't need any qualifications for something as basic as that. It takes a brain - for one - and it needs to be open. You asked a question. You got answers - some no better than your own - and you got the answer from someonewho knows and has worked with the darn things for over 30 years (about as long as they have benn in commonuse) when you have to ask about using an easy out to remove them???? I didn't have to, I chose to, in case someone could come up with an easier way of getting it out. Which I've given you = an easy out would be one of the more difficult ways to get it out. I am a mechanic with 50years experience,including installing and removing them in the very position and application you reference - just not on Mitto****ty cars. On Toyotas and Nissans and Mazdas - yes On Chevys and Fords too. But who didn't even notice that the screw is threaded and has a philips head on it Damned right I did! There is no point in either if its just driven in instead of screwed in. And you clearly have no idea about the metal tab that it goes into which would just bend if it was driven in instead of screwed in. Yes I do. I've worked on hundreds of them. And you don't realise that there is no way to get a jaw around it to force it in that way because the inner jaw can't get past the cover that I am removing to get to the windscreen washer bottle. You are a CLUELESS idiot And it isnt a Mitto****ty car either. No warranty claims what so ever in the 5 year warranty and this is the only potential failure in the 13 years I have had it since new either. Every Mitsubishi is by definitiona Mitso****ty. It isnt a Mitsubishi, its an Hyundai. The "nut" prtion is not solid. It has "fingers" that spread when you force the threaded pin in.. Yes. Knock the head off Not possible, its recessed. Dril it off then Easier to leaver it up or use a hot screwdriver to unscrew it. and punch it through. That's going to bend the metal tab the whole thing goes into. and wont see the SCREW driven thru. It needs to come out the way it went in, which is why an extractor likely will work. No - it wikk come out the way it went in - straight out the other side - and it doesn'r take a hammer either. But you said previously to drive it out. You should have said press it out, You have nothing to loose by trying. The metal tab is a lot stronger than the threads on the screw portion of your "scrivet" Not in bending it isnt. - even on a Mitso****ty. If the tab bends a little, just straighten it out with your fingers afterwards. It wont just bend a little. Look at https://www.comdir.co.uk/scrivets-flush-head-type.html That is different to this one. Or https://www.jetpress.com/Products.as...FlushHeadType/ Doesn't work. Server Error in '/' Application. Runtime Error Description: An exception occurred while processing your request. Additionally, another exception occurred while executing the custom error page for the first exception. The request has been terminated. Als see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKcKJ50Xdw and the installer tool designed to push in the "screw" https://www.assytool.com/sp-scrivet.php Mine doesn't pull out as easily as that one and I can see that by trying to push out the screw on the one that I have remove because its philips head isnt wrecked. also see step 3 in : https://www.carid.com/images/trailfx...structions.pdf and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUECZAc1B-I That doesn't work with mine because you cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get the pliers under the head. Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw That one clearly shows that it is a screw and if its undamaged will screw out fine like my other one did, the one in the photo. And that one goes into a hole in the metal, mine doesn't. And mine doesn't push in on the one I removed like this one does even if you put it in a hole in a metal plate, it needs to be screwed in because it's a much tighter fit into the 'nut' than that one in the video. And with mine you can chisel the head off either because the whole thing is recessed into the plastic cover that it retains, it isnt proud like it is in that youtube. Or watch this guy fight with one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw That's the same video. Or you can go nuts like this guy - http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20100005640.pdf Go nuts. I'm done. |
#70
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
"Clare Snyder" wrote in message ... On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 07:04:13 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message . .. On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message m... On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message news:k82t9etsf11o36j2p4ujj2qqam22socch8@4ax. com... On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie wrote: Jac Brown posted for all of us... Got one of these https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0 with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here. https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56 The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it. I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head, No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver. Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both. My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole drilled into where the philips slots used to be. The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue. Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ? I guess superglue and metal rod might work. Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before I order the smallest screw extractor ? Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives. Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke. You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are inserted like a "push pin" These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw thru with a drift. And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in. Trust me - No thanks. I've installed and removed hundreds of them Not in this car in this position in the car you havent. and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver. Not possible in this case because that would bend the small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into goes into. And no way to put anything behind that tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car. Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying to tighten them too much strips the head out. Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out There is when the screw head is recessed and the philips socket is damaged enough so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little. but easier to just drill the head off and drive it through with a pin-punch. That wont work either, because again, that will just bend the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into. With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out. Yes. We called them "scrivets" Yes, but they arent all identical on the question of whether the screw screws in or is punched in. What are your qualifications to question how they work Don't need any qualifications for something as basic as that. It takes a brain - for one - and it needs to be open. You asked a question. You got answers - some no better than your own - and you got the answer from someonewho knows and has worked with the darn things for over 30 years (about as long as they have benn in commonuse) when you have to ask about using an easy out to remove them???? I didn't have to, I chose to, in case someone could come up with an easier way of getting it out. Which I've given you = an easy out would be one of the more difficult ways to get it out. I am a mechanic with 50years experience,including installing and removing them in the very position and application you reference - just not on Mitto****ty cars. On Toyotas and Nissans and Mazdas - yes On Chevys and Fords too. But who didn't even notice that the screw is threaded and has a philips head on it Damned right I did! There is no point in either if its just driven in instead of screwed in. And you clearly have no idea about the metal tab that it goes into which would just bend if it was driven in instead of screwed in. Yes I do. I've worked on hundreds of them. And you don't realise that there is no way to get a jaw around it to force it in that way because the inner jaw can't get past the cover that I am removing to get to the windscreen washer bottle. You are a CLUELESS idiot And it isnt a Mitto****ty car either. No warranty claims what so ever in the 5 year warranty and this is the only potential failure in the 13 years I have had it since new either. Every Mitsubishi is by definitiona Mitso****ty. It isnt a Mitsubishi, its an Hyundai. The "nut" prtion is not solid. It has "fingers" that spread when you force the threaded pin in.. Yes. Knock the head off Not possible, its recessed. Dril it off then Easier to leaver it up or use a hot screwdriver to unscrew it. and punch it through. That's going to bend the metal tab the whole thing goes into. and wont see the SCREW driven thru. It needs to come out the way it went in, which is why an extractor likely will work. No - it wikk come out the way it went in - straight out the other side - and it doesn'r take a hammer either. But you said previously to drive it out. You should have said press it out, You have nothing to loose by trying. The metal tab is a lot stronger than the threads on the screw portion of your "scrivet" Not in bending it isnt. - even on a Mitso****ty. If the tab bends a little, just straighten it out with your fingers afterwards. It wont just bend a little. Look at https://www.comdir.co.uk/scrivets-flush-head-type.html That is different to this one. Or https://www.jetpress.com/Products.as...FlushHeadType/ Doesn't work. Server Error in '/' Application. Runtime Error Description: An exception occurred while processing your request. Additionally, another exception occurred while executing the custom error page for the first exception. The request has been terminated. Als see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKcKJ50Xdw and the installer tool designed to push in the "screw" https://www.assytool.com/sp-scrivet.php Mine doesn't pull out as easily as that one and I can see that by trying to push out the screw on the one that I have remove because its philips head isnt wrecked. also see step 3 in : https://www.carid.com/images/trailfx...structions.pdf and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUECZAc1B-I That doesn't work with mine because you cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get the pliers under the head. Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw That one clearly shows that it is a screw and if its undamaged will screw out fine like my other one did, the one in the photo. And that one goes into a hole in the metal, mine doesn't. And mine doesn't push in on the one I removed like this one does even if you put it in a hole in a metal plate, it needs to be screwed in because it's a much tighter fit into the 'nut' than that one in the video. And with mine you can chisel the head off either because the whole thing is recessed into the plastic cover that it retains, it isnt proud like it is in that youtube. Or watch this guy fight with one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw That's the same video. Or you can go nuts like this guy - http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20100005640.pdf Go nuts. I'm done. |
#71
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL
On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 17:24:33 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rot Speed,
the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: FLUSH 273 lines!!! of the usual useless senile bull**** unread -- Richard addressing Rot Speed: "**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll." MID: |
#72
Posted to alt.home.repair
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 17:34:12 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote: FLUSH again 274 lines of the usual senile bull**** ....and nothing's left again! -- Sqwertz to Rot Speed: "This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative asshole. MID: |
#73
Posted to alt.home.repair
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 17:20:43 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote: FLUSH the senile asshole's latest senile troll**** ....and much better air in here! -- Bill Wright to Rot Speed: "That confirms my opinion that you are a despicable little ****." MID: |
#74
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
On 3/31/2019 1:20 AM, Jac Brown wrote:
obscene gesture in Coombs' general direction * Hey look guys , he's showing us his IQ ! You're just ****ed because I called you out on your screwy troll . I may not be a professional mechanic like Clare , but I have maintained my own machinery (cars , trucks , motorcycles , electrical equipment , etc) for over 50 years - including motor and transmission rebuilds . Yesterday on the way home from an eye appointment in a city 50 miles away the alternator in our SUV died . I didn't post here asking for help , I bought a new unit and pulled out the repair manual for basic instructions . Then I pulled the old one and installed the new - all without help from the internet . And the only reason it took a whole hour of my time is because I spent 15 minutes fabricating and installing a new ground strap to replace a broken one . You're an idiot and a troll and I'm finished with you . Well , at least until you pop up under another fake nym with another stupid troll . -- Snag Yes , I'm old and crochety - and armed . Get outta my woods ! |
#75
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Getting a damaged screw out
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message ... On 3/31/2019 1:20 AM, Jac Brown wrote: obscene gesture in Coombs' general direction Hey look guys , he's showing us his IQ ! You never could bull**** your way out of a wet paper bag. You're just ****ed because I called you out on your screwy troll . Nope, its hilarious watching you go face down in the mud, as always. I may not be a professional mechanic like Clare , but I have maintained my own machinery (cars , trucks , motorcycles , electrical equipment , etc) for over 50 years - including motor and transmission rebuilds . Me too, for rather longer than that. And designed and built my own very substantial passive solar house on a bare block of land too. Yesterday on the way home from an eye appointment in a city 50 miles away the alternator in our SUV died . So did mine, on a much longer trip, in the previous Golf, more than 30 years ago. I didn't post here asking for help , Neither did I, because there was no internet then. I bought a new unit and pulled out the repair manual for basic instructions . Then I pulled the old one and installed the new - all without help from the internet . So did I. And there was no internet when I designed and built the house, I used the library and bought some of the more important design docs for the passive solar side of it. And it turned out that asking on here about the scrivnut was a useful thing to do, particular with one of the links that Clare had posted that got me fiddling with the good one and discovered that you can just lever the screw out easily. You're an idiot and a troll You're the idiot that is too stupid to even notice that I was in fact asking if anyone had a better approach than using an extractor and I did in fact get told about a better approach. Thats not trolling, ****wit child. and I'm finished with you . You have always been, and always will be, completely and utterly irrelevant. obscene gesture in Coombs' general direction |
#76
Posted to alt.home.repair
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
On Mon, 1 Apr 2019 06:33:53 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote: Hey look guys , he's showing us his IQ ! You never could bull**** your way out of a wet paper bag. You certainly KEEP bull****ting your way FAST into your grave, you abnormal 85-year-old senile pest! -- Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot: "Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?" MID: |
#77
Posted to alt.home.repair
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
I can't believe there are 76 posts about how to remove a plastic screw that you don't need to reuse.
Drill the sucker out. It's plastic, for goodness sake, you don't even need power tools. A hand drill would work, or even just a drill bit held in your fingers. I keep a coffee grinder style hand drill and a brace and bit style handy just for places where I don't need high power and or don't want to go find an extension cord. Or get a propane torch and melt the head off. Everyone here (except the OP) could do this job faster than it takes to type one post. |
#78
Posted to alt.home.repair
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
On Mon, 1 Apr 2019 12:56:04 -0700 (PDT), TimR wrote:
I can't believe there are 76 posts about how to remove a plastic screw LOL Indeed! |
#79
Posted to alt.home.repair
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
On 4/1/2019 2:56 PM, TimR wrote:
I can't believe there are 76 posts about how to remove a plastic screw that you don't need to reuse. Drill the sucker out. It's plastic, for goodness sake, you don't even need power tools. A hand drill would work, or even just a drill bit held in your fingers. I keep a coffee grinder style hand drill and a brace and bit style handy just for places where I don't need high power and or don't want to go find an extension cord. Or get a propane torch and melt the head off. Everyone here (except the OP) could do this job faster than it takes to type one post. * Which is why I called him a trollin' mutha****a . You will notice that when I called him on it he quit posting ... -- Snag Yes , I'm old and crochety - and armed . Get outta my woods ! |
#80
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message ... On 4/1/2019 2:56 PM, TimR wrote: I can't believe there are 76 posts about how to remove a plastic screw that you don't need to reuse. Drill the sucker out. It's plastic, for goodness sake, you don't even need power tools. A hand drill would work, or even just a drill bit held in your fingers. I keep a coffee grinder style hand drill and a brace and bit style handy just for places where I don't need high power and or don't want to go find an extension cord. Makes more sense to leaver the head up enough so the head can be grabbed with a pair of pliers. Much less work. Or get a propane torch and melt the head off. That will burn the plastic cover that its holding on. Everyone here (except the OP) could do this job faster than it takes to type one post. But I got told about a better way that way, butcher. Which is why I called him a trollin' mutha****a . You will notice that when I called him on it he quit posting ... More of your lies. I posted 5 times to Clare after you made such a spectacular fool of yourself. |
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