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Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:54:31 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:



No


Hahahahaaa!!!

--
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"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
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Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:



That wont work


LOL

That doesn't work either


LOL

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asshole.
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Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:



These ones arent, what the screw screws


What you REALLY need is to get that damaged screw out of your senile head,
senile Rot!

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"Ah, the voice of scum speaks."
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Default Getting a damaged screw out

On 3/29/2019 4:54 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
....

No its not stripped,...


So drill it out and try a screw extractor...or, as somebody else already
said, make the drill as large as the hole it's in and you'll have
essentially nothing left that can't just collapse and pull out...

--
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Default Getting a damaged screw out

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie
wrote:

Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before


I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.

You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and
pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are
inserted like a "push pin"


These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the
screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so
you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw
thru with a drift.

And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing
goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal
of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the
strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw
in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in.

Trust me - I've installed and removed hundreds of them - and the way
they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips recess on the
"screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver.Mabe half a turn at the
end to snug it up. Trying to tighten them too much strips the head
out. Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out but easier to
just drill the head off and drive it through with a pin-punch. With
the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out.

We called them "scrivets"


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Default Getting a damaged screw out

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 19:12:56 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 3/29/2019 4:54 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
...

No its not stripped,...


So drill it out and try a screw extractor...or, as somebody else already
said, make the drill as large as the hole it's in and you'll have
essentially nothing left that can't just collapse and pull out...

You are all overthinking it. Drill the head off, punch the screw
body through, and remove the clip. Insertion does NOT require turning
the screw and with the head drilled off you can poke the screw through
with a small punch or even an awl.
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Default Getting a damaged screw out



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie
wrote:

Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about
wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before


I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.
You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and
pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are
inserted like a "push pin"


These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the
screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so
you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw
thru with a drift.

And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing
goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal
of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the
strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw
in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in.


Trust me -


No thanks.

I've installed and removed hundreds of them


Not in this car in this position in the car you havent.

and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips
recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver.


Not possible in this case because that would bend the
small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into
goes into. And no way to put anything behind that
tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the
plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car.

Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying
to tighten them too much strips the head out.


Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out


There is when the screw head is recessed
and the philips socket is damaged enough
so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little.

but easier to just drill the head off and
drive it through with a pin-punch.


That wont work either, because again, that will just bend
the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into.

With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out.


Yes.

We called them "scrivets"


Yes, but they arent all identical on the question
of whether the screw screws in or is punched in.

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Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:

No


LOL

Not


LOL

Not


LOL

I just wonder how LONG it will still take these senile Yanks on ahr until
they realize what's the matter with you, senile Rot. Don't you wonder too?
LMAO

--
Bill Wright addressing senile Ozzie cretin Rot Speed:
"Well you make up a lot of stuff and it's total ******** most of it."
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Default Getting a damaged screw out

On 3/30/19 2:11 AM, Jac Brown wrote:
There is when the screw head is recessed
and the philips socket is damaged enough
so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little.



It's a security screw.* The manufacturer does not want that screw removed so they have made it impossible.* There are no user serviceable parts inside.* You'll need to take it to a factory authorized service center.

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Default Getting a damaged screw out

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Tekkie" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.


Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw


That wont work, its recessed.

or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.


That doesn't work either, again because its recessed.

Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the
cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long
with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist.


As someone else said, it's not a screw. The whole thing was inserted
into the hole, then the top part pushed down to expand the bottom bits
bigger than the hole they went through.

If you try to turn the 'screw' it will just keep rotating without
allowing the bottom bits to contract.

As it's only plastic, I would try putting a screwdriver into it, then
giving the screwdriver a hearty whack with a hammer to break the head
of the 'screw'.
--
Dave W


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Default Getting a damaged screw out

Dave W wrote:
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?tV

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw


That wont work, its recessed.

or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.


That doesn't work either, again because its recessed.

Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the
cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long
with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist.


As someone else said, it's not a screw.


Then why is it threaded and have a crosshead on it??

Its a fecking screw. You can get fasteners with a smooth sided pin that
you push in to expand the legs but this one clearly has a plastic screw to
wind in to expand them.

Cant you see the threads?


The whole thing was inserted
into the hole, then the top part pushed down to expand the bottom bits
bigger than the hole they went through.


Not this one.

If you try to turn the 'screw' it will just keep rotating without
allowing the bottom bits to contract.


Why would a pin have a crosshead to turn it to no effect?

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls
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Default Getting a damaged screw out

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie
wrote:

Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about
wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before

I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.
You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and
pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are
inserted like a "push pin"

These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the
screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so
you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw
thru with a drift.

And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing
goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal
of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the
strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw
in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in.


Trust me -


No thanks.

I've installed and removed hundreds of them


Not in this car in this position in the car you havent.

and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips
recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver.


Not possible in this case because that would bend the
small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into
goes into. And no way to put anything behind that
tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the
plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car.

Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying
to tighten them too much strips the head out.


Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out


There is when the screw head is recessed
and the philips socket is damaged enough
so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little.

but easier to just drill the head off and
drive it through with a pin-punch.


That wont work either, because again, that will just bend
the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into.

With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out.


Yes.

We called them "scrivets"


Yes, but they arent all identical on the question
of whether the screw screws in or is punched in.

What are your qualifications to question how they work when you have
to ask about using an easy out to remove them????
I am a mechanic with 50years experience,including installing and
removing them in the very position and application you reference -
just not on Mitto****ty cars. On Toyotas and Nissans and Mazdas - yes
On Chevys and Fords too.

The "nut" prtion is not solid. It has "fingers" that spread when you
force the threaded pin in.. Knock the head off and punch it through.
You have nothing to loose by trying. The metal tab is a lot stronger
than the threads on the screw portion of your "scrivet" - even on a
Mitso****ty. If the tab bends a little, just straighten it out with
your fingers afterwards.

Look at https://www.comdir.co.uk/scrivets-flush-head-type.html
Or
https://www.jetpress.com/Products.as...FlushHeadType/
Als see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKcKJ50Xdw
and the installer tool designed to push in the "screw"
https://www.assytool.com/sp-scrivet.php
also see step 3 in :
https://www.carid.com/images/trailfx...structions.pdf
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUECZAc1B-I

Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw
Or watch this guy fight with one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw


Or you can go nuts like this guy -
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20100005640.pdf
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Default Getting a damaged screw out

On 3/30/2019 12:49 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 19:12:56 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 3/29/2019 4:54 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
...

No its not stripped,...

So drill it out and try a screw extractor...or, as somebody else already
said, make the drill as large as the hole it's in and you'll have
essentially nothing left that can't just collapse and pull out...

You are all overthinking it. Drill the head off, punch the screw
body through, and remove the clip. Insertion does NOT require turning
the screw and with the head drilled off you can poke the screw through
with a small punch or even an awl.


* Have you not yet figured out he doesn't really want a solution ? He's
shot down at least half a dozen ideas that would work , he just wants to
troll the group . Did you catch the post where he posted as Rod Speed ,
one of his other nyms ?

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

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Default Getting a damaged screw out

On 30 Mar 2019 17:35:19 GMT, Tim+ wrote:

Dave W wrote:
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Tekkie" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?tV

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw

That wont work, its recessed.

or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.

That doesn't work either, again because its recessed.

Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the
cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long
with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist.


As someone else said, it's not a screw.


Then why is it threaded and have a crosshead on it??

Its a fecking screw. You can get fasteners with a smooth sided pin that
you push in to expand the legs but this one clearly has a plastic screw to
wind in to expand them.

Cant you see the threads?


The whole thing was inserted
into the hole, then the top part pushed down to expand the bottom bits
bigger than the hole they went through.


Not this one.

If you try to turn the 'screw' it will just keep rotating without
allowing the bottom bits to contract.


Why would a pin have a crosshead to turn it to no effect?

Tim

Take it from a mechanic who has installed and removed HUNDREDS of
them. It is a "scrivet". Not a screw. The threads (and "screw head")
are there to, theoretically, anyways, make it easier to remove them.
They are NOT screwed in - they are PUSHED in. If someone tried to
tightrn one with a screwdriver the threads are LIKELY damaged and no
amount of counterclockwize turning will remove them. You need to
either PULL the "screw" portion out or get the head off and push it
through. They are considered to be "consumeables" - ior "single use
fasteners". Yes - you CAN re-use them - they will just be more
aggravating to get out the second time.Sometimes you get lucky and
they will actually unthread - but consider THAT a BONUS.

The "down and dirty" method of removal is to drive a sharp drywall
screw into the head and yank the "pin" or "screw" or whatever you want
to call it out with a pliers (or if you have thick skin on your
fingers, by hand)
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Default Getting a damaged screw out

M. Possabull wrote
Jac Brown wrote


There is when the screw head is recessed
and the philips socket is damaged enough
so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little.


It's a security screw. The manufacturer does not want that screw removed
so they have made it impossible.


No its not, its brother along the same edge came out
fine because the philips head hole wasnt damaged.
Thats the one in the photo.

There are no user serviceable parts inside.


Yes there are, the windscreen washer bottle and pump for starters.

You'll need to take it to a factory authorized service center.


Wrong, as always.



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Default Getting a damaged screw out



"Dave W" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Tekkie" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw


That wont work, its recessed.

or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.


That doesn't work either, again because its recessed.

Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the
cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long
with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist.


As someone else said, it's not a screw.


Yes it is you can see the thread if you zoom in.

The whole thing was inserted into the hole, then
the top part pushed down to expand the bottom
bits bigger than the hole they went through.


It works like that when you SCREW the screw in.

If you try to turn the 'screw' it will just keep rotating
without allowing the bottom bits to contract.


Its brother close to it unscrewed fine, that's the one in the photo.

As it's only plastic, I would try putting a screwdriver
into it, then giving the screwdriver a hearty whack
with a hammer to break the head of the 'screw'.


That will just bend the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into.

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Default Getting a damaged screw out

On Saturday, March 30, 2019 at 3:16:29 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:


https://www.google.com/search?q=scri...TF-8#kpvalbx=1

Or just search for scrivet removal video.
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Default Getting a damaged screw out



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
m...
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie
wrote:

Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of
here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about
wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw
driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't
really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I
don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before

I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.
You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and
pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are
inserted like a "push pin"

These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the
screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so
you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw
thru with a drift.

And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing
goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal
of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the
strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw
in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in.


Trust me -


No thanks.

I've installed and removed hundreds of them


Not in this car in this position in the car you havent.

and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips
recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver.


Not possible in this case because that would bend the
small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into
goes into. And no way to put anything behind that
tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the
plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car.

Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying
to tighten them too much strips the head out.


Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out


There is when the screw head is recessed
and the philips socket is damaged enough
so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little.

but easier to just drill the head off and
drive it through with a pin-punch.


That wont work either, because again, that will just bend
the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into.

With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out.


Yes.

We called them "scrivets"


Yes, but they arent all identical on the question
of whether the screw screws in or is punched in.


What are your qualifications to question how they work


Don't need any qualifications for something as basic as that.

when you have to ask about using an easy out to remove them????


I didn't have to, I chose to, in case someone could
come up with an easier way of getting it out.

I am a mechanic with 50years experience,including installing
and removing them in the very position and application you
reference - just not on Mitto****ty cars. On Toyotas and
Nissans and Mazdas - yes On Chevys and Fords too.


But who didn't even notice that the screw is threaded and has
a philips head on it. There is no point in either if its just driven
in instead of screwed in. And you clearly have no idea about
the metal tab that it goes into which would just bend if it was
driven in instead of screwed in. And you don't realise that
there is no way to get a jaw around it to force it in that way
because the inner jaw can't get past the cover that I am
removing to get to the windscreen washer bottle.

And it isnt a Mitto****ty car either. No warranty claims what
so ever in the 5 year warranty and this is the only potential
failure in the 13 years I have had it since new either.

The "nut" prtion is not solid. It has "fingers" that
spread when you force the threaded pin in..


Yes.

Knock the head off


Not possible, its recessed.

and punch it through.


That's going to bend the metal tab the whole thing goes into.
and wont see the SCREW driven thru. It needs to come out the
way it went in, which is why an extractor likely will work.

You have nothing to loose by trying. The metal tab is a lot
stronger than the threads on the screw portion of your "scrivet"


Not in bending it isnt.

- even on a Mitso****ty. If the tab bends a little,
just straighten it out with your fingers afterwards.


It wont just bend a little.

Look at https://www.comdir.co.uk/scrivets-flush-head-type.html


That is different to this one.

Or
https://www.jetpress.com/Products.as...FlushHeadType/


Doesn't work.

Server Error in '/' Application.
Runtime Error
Description: An exception occurred while processing your request.
Additionally, another exception occurred while executing the custom
error page for the first exception. The request has been terminated.

Als see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKcKJ50Xdw



and the installer tool designed to push in the "screw"
https://www.assytool.com/sp-scrivet.php


Mine doesn't pull out as easily as that one and I can
see that by trying to push out the screw on the one that
I have remove because its philips head isnt wrecked.

also see step 3 in :
https://www.carid.com/images/trailfx...structions.pdf
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUECZAc1B-I


That doesn't work with mine because you cant get the
screw unscrewed enough to get the pliers under the head.

Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw


That one clearly shows that it is a screw and if its undamaged
will screw out fine like my other one did, the one in the photo.
And that one goes into a hole in the metal, mine doesn't. And mine
doesn't push in on the one I removed like this one does even if you
put it in a hole in a metal plate, it needs to be screwed in because
it's a much tighter fit into the 'nut' than that one in the video.

And with mine you can chisel the head off either because
the whole thing is recessed into the plastic cover that it
retains, it isnt proud like it is in that youtube.

Or watch this guy fight with one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw


That's the same video.

Or you can go nuts like this guy -
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20100005640.pdf


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Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!

On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 06:16:38 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


It's a security screw. The manufacturer does not want that screw removed
so they have made it impossible.


No its not


LOL Did you just climax again, senile Rot?

--
Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot:
"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID:
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Default Getting a damaged screw out



"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/30/2019 12:49 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 19:12:56 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 3/29/2019 4:54 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
...

No its not stripped,...
So drill it out and try a screw extractor...or, as somebody else already
said, make the drill as large as the hole it's in and you'll have
essentially nothing left that can't just collapse and pull out...

You are all overthinking it. Drill the head off, punch the screw
body through, and remove the clip. Insertion does NOT require turning
the screw and with the head drilled off you can poke the screw through
with a small punch or even an awl.


Have you not yet figured out he doesn't really want a solution ? He's shot
down at least half a dozen ideas that would work ,


No they wouldnt and I have said that two of them will work,
using an extractor and drilling the entire screw out.

he just wants to troll the group .


There you go, face down in the mud, as always.

When I get around to it I will post a photo with it out.
Like I said in the original, it isnt urgent, its just the
windscreen washer bottle behind that panel that
needs some attention.



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Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!

On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 07:04:13 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


What are your qualifications to question how they work


Don't need any qualifications for something as basic as that.


Those Yanks on ahr still don't know who they are dealing with, eh, senile Mr
Know-it-all? Teach them a senile lesson, senile Rot! LOL

FLUSH the rest of your usual idiotic drivel unread

--
Sqwertz to Rot Speed:
"This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative
asshole.
MID:
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Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!

On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 06:21:10 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


It works like that when you SCREW the screw in.


I'd love to SCREW a screw deep into your senile head, Rot!

--
Richard addressing Rot Speed:
"**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll."
MID:
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Default Getting a damaged screw out

Jac Brown wrote:


"Dave W" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw

That wont work, its recessed.

or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.

That doesn't work either, again because its recessed.

Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the
cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long
with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist.


As someone else said, it's not a screw.


Yes it is you can see the thread if you zoom in.

The whole thing was inserted into the hole, then
the top part pushed down to expand the bottom
bits bigger than the hole they went through.


It works like that when you SCREW the screw in.

If you try to turn the 'screw' it will just keep rotating
without allowing the bottom bits to contract.


Its brother close to it unscrewed fine, that's the one in the photo.

As it's only plastic, I would try putting a screwdriver
into it, then giving the screwdriver a hearty whack
with a hammer to break the head of the 'screw'.


That will just bend the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into.


Heat a screwdriver up over a flame and melt it into the screw. Wait a
short while for it to cool enough then unscrew.

Tim



--
Please don't feed the trolls
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Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!

On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 07:08:46 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


Have you not yet figured out he doesn't really want a solution ? He's shot
down at least half a dozen ideas that would work ,


No they wouldnt


You are a ****ed up stupid troll, and that's it, senile Rot!

FLUSH another load of your sick troll****

--
Richard addressing Rot Speed:
"**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll."
MID:
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Default Getting a damaged screw out

On 03/30/2019 11:35 AM, Tim+ wrote:
Its a fecking screw. You can get fasteners with a smooth sided pin that
you push in to expand the legs but this one clearly has a plastic screw to
wind in to expand them.


With many of those you push the pin in further to release them. They are
reusable after you reset the pin.



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Default Getting a damaged screw out

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 14:11:53 -0500, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/30/2019 12:49 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 19:12:56 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 3/29/2019 4:54 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
...

No its not stripped,...
So drill it out and try a screw extractor...or, as somebody else already
said, make the drill as large as the hole it's in and you'll have
essentially nothing left that can't just collapse and pull out...

You are all overthinking it. Drill the head off, punch the screw
body through, and remove the clip. Insertion does NOT require turning
the screw and with the head drilled off you can poke the screw through
with a small punch or even an awl.


* Have you not yet figured out he doesn't really want a solution ? He's
shot down at least half a dozen ideas that would work , he just wants to
troll the group . Did you catch the post where he posted as Rod Speed ,
one of his other nyms ?

No I didn't catch that But I was beginning to think he was a stubborn
dumb cuss.
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Default Getting a damaged screw out

On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 07:04:13 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
om...
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie
wrote:

Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of
here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about
wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw
driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't
really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I
don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before

I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.
You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and
pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are
inserted like a "push pin"

These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the
screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so
you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw
thru with a drift.

And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing
goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal
of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the
strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw
in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in.

Trust me -

No thanks.

I've installed and removed hundreds of them

Not in this car in this position in the car you havent.

and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips
recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver.

Not possible in this case because that would bend the
small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into
goes into. And no way to put anything behind that
tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the
plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car.

Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying
to tighten them too much strips the head out.

Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out

There is when the screw head is recessed
and the philips socket is damaged enough
so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little.

but easier to just drill the head off and
drive it through with a pin-punch.

That wont work either, because again, that will just bend
the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into.

With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out.

Yes.

We called them "scrivets"

Yes, but they arent all identical on the question
of whether the screw screws in or is punched in.


What are your qualifications to question how they work


Don't need any qualifications for something as basic as that.

It takes a brain - for one - and it needs to be open. You asked a
question. You got answers - some no better than your own - and you got
the answer from someonewho knows and has worked with the darn things
for over 30 years (about as long as they have benn in commonuse)

when you have to ask about using an easy out to remove them????


I didn't have to, I chose to, in case someone could
come up with an easier way of getting it out.


Which I've given you = an easy out would be one of the more difficult
ways to get it out.

I am a mechanic with 50years experience,including installing
and removing them in the very position and application you
reference - just not on Mitto****ty cars. On Toyotas and
Nissans and Mazdas - yes On Chevys and Fords too.


But who didn't even notice that the screw is threaded and has
a philips head on it


Damned right I did!

There is no point in either if its just driven
in instead of screwed in. And you clearly have no idea about
the metal tab that it goes into which would just bend if it was
driven in instead of screwed in.


Yes I do. I've worked on hundreds of them.
And you don't realise that
there is no way to get a jaw around it to force it in that way
because the inner jaw can't get past the cover that I am
removing to get to the windscreen washer bottle.


You are a CLUELESS idiot

And it isnt a Mitto****ty car either. No warranty claims what
so ever in the 5 year warranty and this is the only potential
failure in the 13 years I have had it since new either.


Every Mitsubishi is by definitiona Mitso****ty.

The "nut" prtion is not solid. It has "fingers" that
spread when you force the threaded pin in..


Yes.

Knock the head off


Not possible, its recessed.


Dril it off then

and punch it through.


That's going to bend the metal tab the whole thing goes into.
and wont see the SCREW driven thru. It needs to come out the
way it went in, which is why an extractor likely will work.


No - it wikk come out the way it went in - straight out the other
side - and it doesn'r take a hammer either.

You have nothing to loose by trying. The metal tab is a lot
stronger than the threads on the screw portion of your "scrivet"


Not in bending it isnt.

- even on a Mitso****ty. If the tab bends a little,
just straighten it out with your fingers afterwards.


It wont just bend a little.

Look at https://www.comdir.co.uk/scrivets-flush-head-type.html


That is different to this one.

Or
https://www.jetpress.com/Products.as...FlushHeadType/


Doesn't work.

Server Error in '/' Application.
Runtime Error
Description: An exception occurred while processing your request.
Additionally, another exception occurred while executing the custom
error page for the first exception. The request has been terminated.

Als see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKcKJ50Xdw



and the installer tool designed to push in the "screw"
https://www.assytool.com/sp-scrivet.php


Mine doesn't pull out as easily as that one and I can
see that by trying to push out the screw on the one that
I have remove because its philips head isnt wrecked.

also see step 3 in :
https://www.carid.com/images/trailfx...structions.pdf
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUECZAc1B-I


That doesn't work with mine because you cant get the
screw unscrewed enough to get the pliers under the head.

Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw


That one clearly shows that it is a screw and if its undamaged
will screw out fine like my other one did, the one in the photo.
And that one goes into a hole in the metal, mine doesn't. And mine
doesn't push in on the one I removed like this one does even if you
put it in a hole in a metal plate, it needs to be screwed in because
it's a much tighter fit into the 'nut' than that one in the video.

And with mine you can chisel the head off either because
the whole thing is recessed into the plastic cover that it
retains, it isnt proud like it is in that youtube.

Or watch this guy fight with one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw


That's the same video.

Or you can go nuts like this guy -
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20100005640.pdf



Go nuts. I'm done.
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Default Getting a damaged screw out



"Jac Brown" wrote in message
...


"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
om...
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie
wrote:

Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of
here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about
wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw
driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I
have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't
really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The
smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I
don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and
glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before

I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning
the
screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.
You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and
pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are
inserted like a "push pin"

These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the
screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so
you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw
thru with a drift.

And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing
goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal
of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the
strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw
in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in.

Trust me -

No thanks.

I've installed and removed hundreds of them

Not in this car in this position in the car you havent.

and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips
recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver.

Not possible in this case because that would bend the
small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into
goes into. And no way to put anything behind that
tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the
plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car.

Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying
to tighten them too much strips the head out.

Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out

There is when the screw head is recessed
and the philips socket is damaged enough
so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little.

but easier to just drill the head off and
drive it through with a pin-punch.

That wont work either, because again, that will just bend
the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into.

With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out.

Yes.

We called them "scrivets"

Yes, but they arent all identical on the question
of whether the screw screws in or is punched in.


What are your qualifications to question how they work


Don't need any qualifications for something as basic as that.

when you have to ask about using an easy out to remove them????


I didn't have to, I chose to, in case someone could
come up with an easier way of getting it out.

I am a mechanic with 50years experience,including installing
and removing them in the very position and application you
reference - just not on Mitto****ty cars. On Toyotas and
Nissans and Mazdas - yes On Chevys and Fords too.


But who didn't even notice that the screw is threaded and has
a philips head on it. There is no point in either if its just driven
in instead of screwed in. And you clearly have no idea about
the metal tab that it goes into which would just bend if it was
driven in instead of screwed in. And you don't realise that
there is no way to get a jaw around it to force it in that way
because the inner jaw can't get past the cover that I am
removing to get to the windscreen washer bottle.

And it isnt a Mitto****ty car either. No warranty claims what
so ever in the 5 year warranty and this is the only potential
failure in the 13 years I have had it since new either.

The "nut" prtion is not solid. It has "fingers" that
spread when you force the threaded pin in..


Yes.

Knock the head off


Not possible, its recessed.

and punch it through.


That's going to bend the metal tab the whole thing goes into.
and wont see the SCREW driven thru. It needs to come out the
way it went in, which is why an extractor likely will work.

You have nothing to loose by trying. The metal tab is a lot
stronger than the threads on the screw portion of your "scrivet"


Not in bending it isnt.

- even on a Mitso****ty. If the tab bends a little,
just straighten it out with your fingers afterwards.


It wont just bend a little.

Look at https://www.comdir.co.uk/scrivets-flush-head-type.html


That is different to this one.

Or
https://www.jetpress.com/Products.as...FlushHeadType/


Doesn't work.

Server Error in '/' Application.
Runtime Error
Description: An exception occurred while processing your request.
Additionally, another exception occurred while executing the custom
error page for the first exception. The request has been terminated.

Als see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKcKJ50Xdw



and the installer tool designed to push in the "screw"
https://www.assytool.com/sp-scrivet.php


Mine doesn't pull out as easily as that one and I can
see that by trying to push out the screw on the one that
I have remove because its philips head isnt wrecked.


After playing with the undamaged one that screwed out
fine, it turns out that it does in fact push in fine until the
head stops it going in any further. And with that one
lose it does in fact push out fine when you push on the
inner end of the screw. And with it half unscrewed, you
can in fact pull it out with your fingers.

But with the damaged one it isnt that easy to get
it out a little bit so you can grip the head with a
pair of pliers and pull it out that way but it likely
will be possible to leaver the head up enough
with a flat screwdriver to be able to grip the
head with a pair of pliers.

Yes, drilling the head off and pushing the body
of the screw thru would work but harder to do
to drill the head off because of the limited
distance from the head to the ground even
with the car on the jack stands.

A hot flat screwdriver should work to get a grip
on the head to unscrew it.

I don't have any drywall screws handy.

I havent actually tried getting it out yet, still botting
the 9 brew beer brewing run and doing other stuff.
Likely will try it on Tuesday.

Thanks for these links, it did get me fiddling with the
loose good one.

also see step 3 in :
https://www.carid.com/images/trailfx...structions.pdf
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUECZAc1B-I


That doesn't work with mine because you cant get the
screw unscrewed enough to get the pliers under the head.

Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw


That one clearly shows that it is a screw and if its undamaged
will screw out fine like my other one did, the one in the photo.
And that one goes into a hole in the metal, mine doesn't. And mine
doesn't push in on the one I removed like this one does even if you
put it in a hole in a metal plate, it needs to be screwed in because
it's a much tighter fit into the 'nut' than that one in the video.

And with mine you can chisel the head off either because
the whole thing is recessed into the plastic cover that it
retains, it isnt proud like it is in that youtube.

Or watch this guy fight with one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw


That's the same video.

Or you can go nuts like this guy -
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20100005640.pdf



obscene gesture in Coombs' general direction

  #69   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 40,893
Default Getting a damaged screw out



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 07:04:13 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
m...
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
news:k82t9etsf11o36j2p4ujj2qqam22socch8@4ax. com...
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie
wrote:

Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of
here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about
wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace
it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw
driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I
have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't
really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The
smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I
don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and
glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before

I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning
the
screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.
You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and
pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are
inserted like a "push pin"

These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the
screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so
you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw
thru with a drift.

And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing
goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal
of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the
strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw
in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in.

Trust me -

No thanks.

I've installed and removed hundreds of them

Not in this car in this position in the car you havent.

and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips
recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver.

Not possible in this case because that would bend the
small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into
goes into. And no way to put anything behind that
tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the
plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car.

Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying
to tighten them too much strips the head out.

Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out

There is when the screw head is recessed
and the philips socket is damaged enough
so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little.

but easier to just drill the head off and
drive it through with a pin-punch.

That wont work either, because again, that will just bend
the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into.

With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out.

Yes.

We called them "scrivets"

Yes, but they arent all identical on the question
of whether the screw screws in or is punched in.


What are your qualifications to question how they work


Don't need any qualifications for something as basic as that.

It takes a brain - for one - and it needs to be open. You asked a
question. You got answers - some no better than your own - and you got
the answer from someonewho knows and has worked with the darn things
for over 30 years (about as long as they have benn in commonuse)

when you have to ask about using an easy out to remove them????


I didn't have to, I chose to, in case someone could
come up with an easier way of getting it out.


Which I've given you = an easy out would be one of the more difficult
ways to get it out.

I am a mechanic with 50years experience,including installing
and removing them in the very position and application you
reference - just not on Mitto****ty cars. On Toyotas and
Nissans and Mazdas - yes On Chevys and Fords too.


But who didn't even notice that the screw is threaded and has
a philips head on it


Damned right I did!

There is no point in either if its just driven
in instead of screwed in. And you clearly have no idea about
the metal tab that it goes into which would just bend if it was
driven in instead of screwed in.


Yes I do. I've worked on hundreds of them.
And you don't realise that
there is no way to get a jaw around it to force it in that way
because the inner jaw can't get past the cover that I am
removing to get to the windscreen washer bottle.


You are a CLUELESS idiot

And it isnt a Mitto****ty car either. No warranty claims what
so ever in the 5 year warranty and this is the only potential
failure in the 13 years I have had it since new either.


Every Mitsubishi is by definitiona Mitso****ty.


It isnt a Mitsubishi, its an Hyundai.

The "nut" prtion is not solid. It has "fingers" that
spread when you force the threaded pin in..


Yes.

Knock the head off


Not possible, its recessed.


Dril it off then


Easier to leaver it up or use a hot screwdriver to unscrew it.

and punch it through.


That's going to bend the metal tab the whole thing goes into.
and wont see the SCREW driven thru. It needs to come out the
way it went in, which is why an extractor likely will work.


No - it wikk come out the way it went in - straight out the other
side - and it doesn'r take a hammer either.


But you said previously to drive it out. You should have said press it out,

You have nothing to loose by trying. The metal tab is a lot
stronger than the threads on the screw portion of your "scrivet"


Not in bending it isnt.

- even on a Mitso****ty. If the tab bends a little,
just straighten it out with your fingers afterwards.


It wont just bend a little.

Look at https://www.comdir.co.uk/scrivets-flush-head-type.html


That is different to this one.

Or
https://www.jetpress.com/Products.as...FlushHeadType/


Doesn't work.

Server Error in '/' Application.
Runtime Error
Description: An exception occurred while processing your request.
Additionally, another exception occurred while executing the custom
error page for the first exception. The request has been terminated.

Als see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKcKJ50Xdw



and the installer tool designed to push in the "screw"
https://www.assytool.com/sp-scrivet.php


Mine doesn't pull out as easily as that one and I can
see that by trying to push out the screw on the one that
I have remove because its philips head isnt wrecked.

also see step 3 in :
https://www.carid.com/images/trailfx...structions.pdf
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUECZAc1B-I


That doesn't work with mine because you cant get the
screw unscrewed enough to get the pliers under the head.

Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw


That one clearly shows that it is a screw and if its undamaged
will screw out fine like my other one did, the one in the photo.
And that one goes into a hole in the metal, mine doesn't. And mine
doesn't push in on the one I removed like this one does even if you
put it in a hole in a metal plate, it needs to be screwed in because
it's a much tighter fit into the 'nut' than that one in the video.

And with mine you can chisel the head off either because
the whole thing is recessed into the plastic cover that it
retains, it isnt proud like it is in that youtube.

Or watch this guy fight with one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw


That's the same video.

Or you can go nuts like this guy -
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20100005640.pdf



Go nuts. I'm done.


  #70   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 160
Default Getting a damaged screw out



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 07:04:13 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:11:19 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
m...
On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 09:12:18 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
news:k82t9etsf11o36j2p4ujj2qqam22socch8@4ax. com...
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:09:05 -0400, Tekkie
wrote:

Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of
here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about
wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace
it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw
driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I
have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't
really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The
smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I
don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and
glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before

I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning
the
screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.
You do not NEED to thread it out. Just get a pick under the head and
pry it out. They are not threaded in at the factory - they are
inserted like a "push pin"

These ones arent, what the screw screws into is threaded at the
screw head end and head of the screw is recessed into that so
you cant just cut the head off and drive the body of the screw
thru with a drift.

And the screw wasn't driven in either, the whole thing
goes thru an 8mm hole in a small tab in the body metal
of the front quarter guard and that doesn't have the
strength to retain the outer while you drive the screw
in when the car was made. Its clearly screwed in.

Trust me -

No thanks.

I've installed and removed hundreds of them

Not in this car in this position in the car you havent.

and the way they go in is put the screwdriver tip into the philips
recess on the "screw" and swat the end of the screwdriver.

Not possible in this case because that would bend the
small metal tab that the thing the screw screws into
goes into. And no way to put anything behind that
tab to stop it being bent because that is behind the
plastic cover panel that the device hold onto the car.

Mabe half a turn at the end to snug it up. Trying
to tighten them too much strips the head out.

Doesn't take much to pull the threaded portion out

There is when the screw head is recessed
and the philips socket is damaged enough
so it isnt possible to screw it out even a little.

but easier to just drill the head off and
drive it through with a pin-punch.

That wont work either, because again, that will just bend
the small metal tab that the whole thing goes into.

With the "screw" out of it, it pulls right out.

Yes.

We called them "scrivets"

Yes, but they arent all identical on the question
of whether the screw screws in or is punched in.


What are your qualifications to question how they work


Don't need any qualifications for something as basic as that.

It takes a brain - for one - and it needs to be open. You asked a
question. You got answers - some no better than your own - and you got
the answer from someonewho knows and has worked with the darn things
for over 30 years (about as long as they have benn in commonuse)

when you have to ask about using an easy out to remove them????


I didn't have to, I chose to, in case someone could
come up with an easier way of getting it out.


Which I've given you = an easy out would be one of the more difficult
ways to get it out.

I am a mechanic with 50years experience,including installing
and removing them in the very position and application you
reference - just not on Mitto****ty cars. On Toyotas and
Nissans and Mazdas - yes On Chevys and Fords too.


But who didn't even notice that the screw is threaded and has
a philips head on it


Damned right I did!

There is no point in either if its just driven
in instead of screwed in. And you clearly have no idea about
the metal tab that it goes into which would just bend if it was
driven in instead of screwed in.


Yes I do. I've worked on hundreds of them.
And you don't realise that
there is no way to get a jaw around it to force it in that way
because the inner jaw can't get past the cover that I am
removing to get to the windscreen washer bottle.


You are a CLUELESS idiot

And it isnt a Mitto****ty car either. No warranty claims what
so ever in the 5 year warranty and this is the only potential
failure in the 13 years I have had it since new either.


Every Mitsubishi is by definitiona Mitso****ty.


It isnt a Mitsubishi, its an Hyundai.

The "nut" prtion is not solid. It has "fingers" that
spread when you force the threaded pin in..


Yes.

Knock the head off


Not possible, its recessed.


Dril it off then


Easier to leaver it up or use a hot screwdriver to unscrew it.

and punch it through.


That's going to bend the metal tab the whole thing goes into.
and wont see the SCREW driven thru. It needs to come out the
way it went in, which is why an extractor likely will work.


No - it wikk come out the way it went in - straight out the other
side - and it doesn'r take a hammer either.


But you said previously to drive it out. You should have said press it out,

You have nothing to loose by trying. The metal tab is a lot
stronger than the threads on the screw portion of your "scrivet"


Not in bending it isnt.

- even on a Mitso****ty. If the tab bends a little,
just straighten it out with your fingers afterwards.


It wont just bend a little.

Look at https://www.comdir.co.uk/scrivets-flush-head-type.html


That is different to this one.

Or
https://www.jetpress.com/Products.as...FlushHeadType/


Doesn't work.

Server Error in '/' Application.
Runtime Error
Description: An exception occurred while processing your request.
Additionally, another exception occurred while executing the custom
error page for the first exception. The request has been terminated.

Als see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKcKJ50Xdw



and the installer tool designed to push in the "screw"
https://www.assytool.com/sp-scrivet.php


Mine doesn't pull out as easily as that one and I can
see that by trying to push out the screw on the one that
I have remove because its philips head isnt wrecked.

also see step 3 in :
https://www.carid.com/images/trailfx...structions.pdf
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUECZAc1B-I


That doesn't work with mine because you cant get the
screw unscrewed enough to get the pliers under the head.

Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw


That one clearly shows that it is a screw and if its undamaged
will screw out fine like my other one did, the one in the photo.
And that one goes into a hole in the metal, mine doesn't. And mine
doesn't push in on the one I removed like this one does even if you
put it in a hole in a metal plate, it needs to be screwed in because
it's a much tighter fit into the 'nut' than that one in the video.

And with mine you can chisel the head off either because
the whole thing is recessed into the plastic cover that it
retains, it isnt proud like it is in that youtube.

Or watch this guy fight with one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1PZzACBiXw


That's the same video.

Or you can go nuts like this guy -
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20100005640.pdf



Go nuts. I'm done.





  #71   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,153
Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL

On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 17:24:33 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rot Speed,
the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH 273 lines!!! of the usual useless senile bull**** unread

--
Richard addressing Rot Speed:
"**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll."
MID:
  #72   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 3,153
Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!

On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 17:34:12 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:

FLUSH again 274 lines of the usual senile bull****

....and nothing's left again!

--
Sqwertz to Rot Speed:
"This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative
asshole.
MID:
  #73   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,153
Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!

On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 17:20:43 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:

FLUSH the senile asshole's latest senile troll****

....and much better air in here!

--
Bill Wright to Rot Speed:
"That confirms my opinion that you are a despicable little ****."
MID:
  #74   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 3,115
Default Getting a damaged screw out

On 3/31/2019 1:20 AM, Jac Brown wrote:



obscene gesture in Coombs' general direction


* Hey look guys , he's showing us his IQ ! You're just ****ed because I
called you out on your screwy troll . I may not be a professional
mechanic like Clare , but I have maintained my own machinery (cars ,
trucks , motorcycles , electrical equipment , etc) for over 50 years -
including motor and transmission rebuilds . Yesterday on the way home
from an eye appointment in a city 50 miles away the alternator in our
SUV died . I didn't post here asking for help , I bought a new unit and
pulled out the repair manual for basic instructions . Then I pulled the
old one and installed the new - all without help from the internet . And
the only reason it took a whole hour of my time is because I spent 15
minutes fabricating and installing a new ground strap to replace a
broken one . You're an idiot and a troll and I'm finished with you .
Well , at least until you pop up under another fake nym with another
stupid troll .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

  #75   Report Post  
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Posts: 160
Default Getting a damaged screw out



"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/31/2019 1:20 AM, Jac Brown wrote:


obscene gesture in Coombs' general direction


Hey look guys , he's showing us his IQ !


You never could bull**** your way out of a wet paper bag.

You're just ****ed because I called you out on your screwy troll .


Nope, its hilarious watching you go face down in the mud, as always.

I may not be a professional mechanic like Clare , but I have maintained my
own machinery (cars , trucks , motorcycles , electrical equipment , etc)
for over 50 years - including motor and transmission rebuilds .


Me too, for rather longer than that. And designed and built my own
very substantial passive solar house on a bare block of land too.

Yesterday on the way home from an eye appointment in a city 50 miles away
the alternator in our SUV died .


So did mine, on a much longer trip, in the previous Golf,
more than 30 years ago.

I didn't post here asking for help ,


Neither did I, because there was no internet then.

I bought a new unit and pulled out the repair manual for basic
instructions . Then I pulled the old one and installed the new - all
without help from the internet .


So did I. And there was no internet when I designed and
built the house, I used the library and bought some of the
more important design docs for the passive solar side of it.

And it turned out that asking on here about the scrivnut was
a useful thing to do, particular with one of the links that Clare
had posted that got me fiddling with the good one and
discovered that you can just lever the screw out easily.

You're an idiot and a troll


You're the idiot that is too stupid to even notice that I was
in fact asking if anyone had a better approach than using an
extractor and I did in fact get told about a better approach.

Thats not trolling, ****wit child.

and I'm finished with you .


You have always been, and always will be, completely and utterly irrelevant.

obscene gesture in Coombs' general direction



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Default More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rot Speed!

On Mon, 1 Apr 2019 06:33:53 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:

Hey look guys , he's showing us his IQ !


You never could bull**** your way out of a wet paper bag.


You certainly KEEP bull****ting your way FAST into your grave, you abnormal
85-year-old senile pest!

--
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"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
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I can't believe there are 76 posts about how to remove a plastic screw that you don't need to reuse.

Drill the sucker out. It's plastic, for goodness sake, you don't even need power tools. A hand drill would work, or even just a drill bit held in your fingers. I keep a coffee grinder style hand drill and a brace and bit style handy just for places where I don't need high power and or don't want to go find an extension cord.

Or get a propane torch and melt the head off. Everyone here (except the OP) could do this job faster than it takes to type one post.
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On Mon, 1 Apr 2019 12:56:04 -0700 (PDT), TimR wrote:

I can't believe there are 76 posts about how to remove a plastic screw


LOL Indeed!
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On 4/1/2019 2:56 PM, TimR wrote:
I can't believe there are 76 posts about how to remove a plastic screw that you don't need to reuse.

Drill the sucker out. It's plastic, for goodness sake, you don't even need power tools. A hand drill would work, or even just a drill bit held in your fingers. I keep a coffee grinder style hand drill and a brace and bit style handy just for places where I don't need high power and or don't want to go find an extension cord.

Or get a propane torch and melt the head off. Everyone here (except the OP) could do this job faster than it takes to type one post.


* Which is why I called him a trollin' mutha****a . You will notice
that when I called him on it he quit posting ...

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Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

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"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 4/1/2019 2:56 PM, TimR wrote:
I can't believe there are 76 posts about how to remove a plastic screw
that you don't need to reuse.

Drill the sucker out. It's plastic, for goodness sake, you don't even
need power tools. A hand drill would work, or even just a drill bit held
in your fingers. I keep a coffee grinder style hand drill and a brace
and bit style handy just for places where I don't need high power and or
don't want to go find an extension cord.


Makes more sense to leaver the head up enough so the
head can be grabbed with a pair of pliers. Much less work.

Or get a propane torch and melt the head off.


That will burn the plastic cover that its holding on.

Everyone here (except the OP) could do this job faster than it takes to
type one post.


But I got told about a better way that way, butcher.

Which is why I called him a trollin' mutha****a . You will notice that
when I called him on it he quit posting ...


More of your lies. I posted 5 times to Clare after you made such a
spectacular fool of yourself.

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