I believe my 2004 GE refrigerator's defrost timer has failed. A new timer is on the way courtesy of eBay. Is there any problem doing the following manually for a few days?

-- Disconnect and remove completely the defrost timer

-- In the refrigerator where the defrost timer previously was, and at the defrost timer's wires going to the defrost heater and compressor, leave the power to the compressor connected, except for brief periods as described in the next step.

-- Every six hours or so, disconnect the power to the compressor and power the defrost heater for 25 minutes. Be super careful not to run the defrost heater more than this.

It is a 6 hour/25 minute timer. Obviously I will adjust this a bit for convenience. I am defrosting the fridge now to start fresh.

On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 1:17:09 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I believe my 2004 GE refrigerator's defrost timer has failed. A new timer is on the way courtesy of eBay. Is there any problem doing the following manually for a few days?

-- Disconnect and remove completely the defrost timer

-- In the refrigerator where the defrost timer previously was, and at the defrost timer's wires going to the defrost heater and compressor, leave the power to the compressor connected, except for brief periods as described in the next step.

-- Every six hours or so, disconnect the power to the compressor and power the defrost heater for 25 minutes. Be super careful not to run the defrost heater more than this.

It is a 6 hour/25 minute timer. Obviously I will adjust this a bit for convenience. I am defrosting the fridge now to start fresh.


A famous man once said,"Experience is a fool's best teacher." Leave the old timer in place and connected then turn it with a screwdriver to switch it to defrost mode. Unless the internal contacts are burned up, it would be much safer to leave the old timer in place. What usually fails is the clock motor so you should be able to turn the shaft at the front where a flat bladed screwdriver can only turn it one way which is usually clockwise. O_o

[8~{} Uncle Frige Monster

On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 12:50:12 PM UTC-6, Uncle Monster wrote:
A famous man once said,"Experience is a fool's best teacher." Leave the old timer in place and connected then turn it with a screwdriver to switch it to defrost mode. Unless the internal contacts are burned up, it would be much safer to leave the old timer in place. What usually fails is the clock motor so you should be able to turn the shaft at the front where a flat bladed screwdriver can only turn it one way which is usually clockwise. O_o


Uncle Monster, thank you for saying, in so many words, "safety first, for cryin' out loud." I have the timer out and checked for when I have continuity to the compressor and when I have continuity to the heater. It seems reliable enough just turning the dial. I think your plan is going to work.

On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 2:41:34 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 12:50:12 PM UTC-6, Uncle Monster wrote:
A famous man once said,"Experience is a fool's best teacher." Leave the old timer in place and connected then turn it with a screwdriver to switch it to defrost mode. Unless the internal contacts are burned up, it would be much safer to leave the old timer in place. What usually fails is the clock motor so you should be able to turn the shaft at the front where a flat bladed screwdriver can only turn it one way which is usually clockwise. O_o

Uncle Monster, thank you for saying, in so many words, "safety first, for cryin' out loud." I have the timer out and checked for when I have continuity to the compressor and when I have continuity to the heater. It seems reliable enough just turning the dial. I think your plan is going to work.

I repaired a lot of refrigerators when I was able-bodied and working. I did a lot of refrigeration work mostly commercial but I did get quite a few calls to repair consumer refrigerators. Heck, a lot of small restaurants had consumer refrigerators. I've even repaired them for pharmacies. A consumer refrigerator will last for many years if the condenser coils underneath are kept clean. The old fridge with the condenser coil up the back seems to last forever even though you must defrost them manually. Of course, there is always the idiot who pokes a hole in the aluminum evaporator that holds the ice trays with an icepick and all the freon leaks out. The repair cost from a big service company may exceed the cost of a new imported refrigerator. If you have a modern side by side refrigerator that has the condenser underneath with a fan to push air over the coils, you should try to keep the coils clean. You may feel hot air blowing out from under your fridge. You can remove the grill from the bottom and you can buy a special long brush made for cleaning the coils and along with a vacuum cleaner, you can get rid of the accumulated dust and dirt. The professional supply houses sell the brush and Home Depot sells a dryer vent cleaning brush that will work. Like anything, you'll find other uses for it. ^_^

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pr...ap5631860.html

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ettore-D...8400/204267902

[8~{} Uncle Fridge Monster

On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 9:14:00 PM UTC-6, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 2:41:34 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 12:50:12 PM UTC-6, Uncle Monster wrote:
A famous man once said,"Experience is a fool's best teacher." Leave the old timer in place and connected then turn it with a screwdriver to switch it to defrost mode. Unless the internal contacts are burned up, it would be much safer to leave the old timer in place. What usually fails is the clock motor so you should be able to turn the shaft at the front where a flat bladed screwdriver can only turn it one way which is usually clockwise. O_o

Uncle Monster, thank you for saying, in so many words, "safety first, for cryin' out loud." I have the timer out and checked for when I have continuity to the compressor and when I have continuity to the heater. It seems reliable enough just turning the dial. I think your plan is going to work.

I repaired a lot of refrigerators when I was able-bodied and working. I did a lot of refrigeration work mostly commercial but I did get quite a few calls to repair consumer refrigerators. Heck, a lot of small restaurants had consumer refrigerators. I've even repaired them for pharmacies. A consumer refrigerator will last for many years if the condenser coils underneath are kept clean. The old fridge with the condenser coil up the back seems to last forever even though you must defrost them manually. Of course, there is always the idiot who pokes a hole in the aluminum evaporator that holds the ice trays with an icepick and all the freon leaks out. The repair cost from a big service company may exceed the cost of a new imported refrigerator. If you have a modern side by side refrigerator that has the condenser underneath with a fan to push air over the coils, you should try to keep the coils clean. You may feel hot air blowing out from under your fridge. You can remove the grill from the bottom and you can buy a special long brush made for cleaning the coils and along with a vacuum cleaner, you can get rid of the accumulated dust and dirt. The professional supply houses sell the brush and Home Depot sells a dryer vent cleaning brush that will work. Like anything, you'll find other uses for it. ^_^

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pr...ap5631860.html

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ettore-D...8400/204267902

[8~{} Uncle Fridge Mo

Thank you for the elaboration, Uncle Monster. This is a conventional refrigerator, with the freezer on the top and the fresh veggies yada compartment on the bottom. I found the wiring schematic in the harness box inside the refrigerator. The schematic is invaluable.

I checked the resistance on the defrost heater, and it is in spec at about 35 ohms. I noticed that the heater glass is broken right in the middle. Still, it seems to be working, per what I describe below.

After defrosting the freezer and letting it run for six hours, I rotated the defrost timer knob to get the click. Then I checked that I was getting heat. I could feel warm air coming out of the vents in the freezer compartment. But I think the defrost thermostat turned off the heater after only 15 minutes or so. For now, I will assume that this is correct operation, maybe especially since I completely defrosted the unit earlier today.

Arriving in a few days is a new defrost timer, new defrost heater element, and new defrost thermostat.

I would love to have a good reason to buy a new refrigerator, but I saw other commentary on the net like yours: As long as the parts are still available, repair and do not replace.

I blow all the dust out from the condenser coils at the bottom about once every two months, using my shop vacuum. I plan to buy one of those special coil brushes. I appreciate the links.

On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 10:45:28 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 9:14:00 PM UTC-6, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 2:41:34 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 12:50:12 PM UTC-6, Uncle Monster wrote:
A famous man once said,"Experience is a fool's best teacher." Leave the old timer in place and connected then turn it with a screwdriver to switch it to defrost mode. Unless the internal contacts are burned up, it would be much safer to leave the old timer in place. What usually fails is the clock motor so you should be able to turn the shaft at the front where a flat bladed screwdriver can only turn it one way which is usually clockwise. O_o

Uncle Monster, thank you for saying, in so many words, "safety first, for cryin' out loud." I have the timer out and checked for when I have continuity to the compressor and when I have continuity to the heater. It seems reliable enough just turning the dial. I think your plan is going to work..

I repaired a lot of refrigerators when I was able-bodied and working. I did a lot of refrigeration work mostly commercial but I did get quite a few calls to repair consumer refrigerators. Heck, a lot of small restaurants had consumer refrigerators. I've even repaired them for pharmacies. A consumer refrigerator will last for many years if the condenser coils underneath are kept clean. The old fridge with the condenser coil up the back seems to last forever even though you must defrost them manually. Of course, there is always the idiot who pokes a hole in the aluminum evaporator that holds the ice trays with an icepick and all the freon leaks out. The repair cost from a big service company may exceed the cost of a new imported refrigerator. If you have a modern side by side refrigerator that has the condenser underneath with a fan to push air over the coils, you should try to keep the coils clean. You may feel hot air blowing out from under your fridge. You can remove the grill from the bottom and you can buy a special long brush made for cleaning the coils and along with a vacuum cleaner, you can get rid of the accumulated dust and dirt. The professional supply houses sell the brush and Home Depot sells a dryer vent cleaning brush that will work. Like anything, you'll find other uses for it. ^_^

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pr...ap5631860.html

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ettore-D...8400/204267902

[8~{} Uncle Fridge Mo

Thank you for the elaboration, Uncle Monster. This is a conventional refrigerator, with the freezer on the top and the fresh veggies yada compartment on the bottom. I found the wiring schematic in the harness box inside the refrigerator. The schematic is invaluable.

I checked the resistance on the defrost heater, and it is in spec at about 35 ohms. I noticed that the heater glass is broken right in the middle. Still, it seems to be working, per what I describe below.

After defrosting the freezer and letting it run for six hours, I rotated the defrost timer knob to get the click. Then I checked that I was getting heat. I could feel warm air coming out of the vents in the freezer compartment. But I think the defrost thermostat turned off the heater after only 15 minutes or so. For now, I will assume that this is correct operation, maybe especially since I completely defrosted the unit earlier today.

Arriving in a few days is a new defrost timer, new defrost heater element, and new defrost thermostat.

I would love to have a good reason to buy a new refrigerator, but I saw other commentary on the net like yours: As long as the parts are still available, repair and do not replace.

I blow all the dust out from the condenser coils at the bottom about once every two months, using my shop vacuum. I plan to buy one of those special coil brushes. I appreciate the links.

No problem, I don't mind sharing what little knowledge I have. I'm just so frustrated to be stuck in this dang wheelchair. I can't find anyone who will repair me. Two orthopedic surgeons have written me off and said they wouldn't attempt knee and shoulder replacement surgery on me. It really sucks to be unable to get up and go. In the next few days, I'll be ordering some business phones for Stinky to replace some damaged ones at a restaurant that's an old customer. I can't get out and climb ladders or crawl under things anymore but I can do tech support and order equipment. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Frustrated Monster

Sorry to read this, Uncle Monster. Tech support from another is everything. The frig continues fine with my manual operation of the defrost timer. I feel the warm air coming out for a while in the freezer. No signs of frost. Parts arriving Saturday. Thank you again.

On Thursday, June 7, 2018 at 1:20:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Sorry to read this, Uncle Monster. Tech support from another is everything. The frig continues fine with my manual operation of the defrost timer. I feel the warm air coming out for a while in the freezer. No signs of frost.. Parts arriving Saturday. Thank you again.

Hey, no problem. It keeps my mind active. I'd decline without the stimulation from interactions on Usenet. Stinky came by a while ago and I got the phones ordered for him. It still gripes me that I can't get up and go. Grrr. O_o

[8~{} Uncle Frustrated Monster