My new bathroom faucet may arrive in the mail today. This will be my
first repair of this nature and I have a question. Thank you for any
comments!

Q: Since applying the supply lines to the faucet seems like the most
difficult part of the job, why wouldn't someone push the supply lines
through the top of the vanity and attach them to the faucet first (with
plumbers tape, of course)? The plastic nuts, which secure the faucet to
the vanity, could be slipped over the supply lines first for instance,
and attached where they belong afterward. I ask this question, because
the process I described doesn't appear to be the normal procedure.

Thank you!
Bill

On 10/19/17 9:07 AM, Bill wrote:
My new bathroom faucet may arrive in the mail today. This will be my
first repair of this nature and I have a question.Â* Thank you for any
comments!

Q: Since applying the supply lines to the faucet seems like the most
difficult part of the job, why wouldn't someone push the supply lines
through the top of the vanity and attach them to the faucet first (with
plumbers tape, of course)?Â* The plastic nuts, which secure the faucet to
the vanity, could be slipped over the supply lines first for instance,
and attached where they belong afterward.Â*Â* I ask this question, because
the process I described doesn't appear to be the normal procedure.

Thank you!
Bill

If you're using screw-on flexible supply hoses from the shut off valves
to the faucet, I'm not sure you're supposed to use tape.

Bobby Axelrod wrote:
On 10/19/17 9:07 AM, Bill wrote:
My new bathroom faucet may arrive in the mail today. This will be my
first repair of this nature and I have a question. Thank you for any
comments!

Q: Since applying the supply lines to the faucet seems like the most
difficult part of the job, why wouldn't someone push the supply lines
through the top of the vanity and attach them to the faucet first
(with plumbers tape, of course)? The plastic nuts, which secure the
faucet to the vanity, could be slipped over the supply lines first
for instance, and attached where they belong afterward. I ask this
question, because the process I described doesn't appear to be the
normal procedure.

Thank you!
Bill

If you're using screw-on flexible supply hoses from the shut off
valves to the faucet, I'm not sure you're supposed to use tape.

We are talking about "teflon-tape", right? I don't see how it could hurt.

On Thursday, October 19, 2017 at 9:39:08 AM UTC-4, Bobby Axelrod wrote:
On 10/19/17 9:07 AM, Bill wrote:
My new bathroom faucet may arrive in the mail today. This will be my
first repair of this nature and I have a question.Â* Thank you for any
comments!

Q: Since applying the supply lines to the faucet seems like the most
difficult part of the job, why wouldn't someone push the supply lines
through the top of the vanity and attach them to the faucet first (with
plumbers tape, of course)?Â* The plastic nuts, which secure the faucet to
the vanity, could be slipped over the supply lines first for instance,
and attached where they belong afterward.Â*Â* I ask this question, because
the process I described doesn't appear to be the normal procedure.

Thank you!
Bill

If you're using screw-on flexible supply hoses from the shut off valves
to the faucet, I'm not sure you're supposed to use tape.

Good point, you're right, you don't use tape on those. As to connecting
the supply line first, then slipping it through, you can do that, as long
as it works with that particular faucet. IDK what they do with bath faucets
today, but kitchen faucets typically have supply hoses already attached that
extend down about a foot. You then hook your supply line from the angle
valve to the hose end from the faucet. If you use flex supply lines, no
reason you can't do it with a bath faucet as long as it will still attach
to the sink, ie if there is a nut, that it will slip over, etc. It would
be easier, which is I presume why the switched to that with the kitchen
faucets. No more need for a basin wrench either, they use a hex head nut
that tightens against a backing plate, you use a socket with extension.

trader_4 wrote:
No more need for a basin wrench either, they use a hex head nut
that tightens against a backing plate, you use a socket with extension.

Yes, I can reach the plastic nuts. And the existing hoses look long
enough to do as I described.

I am doing all this because last time I replaced some rubber parts to
stop a drip, I ended up stripping the set screw. So here I am..

Thanks!
Bill

On Thursday, October 19, 2017 at 10:34:02 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
trader_4 wrote:
No more need for a basin wrench either, they use a hex head nut
that tightens against a backing plate, you use a socket with extension.

Yes, I can reach the plastic nuts. And the existing hoses look long
enough to do as I described.

I am doing all this because last time I replaced some rubber parts to
stop a drip, I ended up stripping the set screw. So here I am..

Thanks!
Bill

If they are flexible hoses, unless they are only a few years old,
I'd replace them. HD, etc has them in various lengths, they don't
cost much.

On Thu, 19 Oct 2017 09:39:05 -0400, Bobby Axelrod
wrote:

On 10/19/17 9:07 AM, Bill wrote:
My new bathroom faucet may arrive in the mail today. This will be my
first repair of this nature and I have a question.* Thank you for any
comments!

Q: Since applying the supply lines to the faucet seems like the most
difficult part of the job, why wouldn't someone push the supply lines
through the top of the vanity and attach them to the faucet first (with
plumbers tape, of course)?* The plastic nuts, which secure the faucet to
the vanity, could be slipped over the supply lines first for instance,
and attached where they belong afterward.** I ask this question, because
the process I described doesn't appear to be the normal procedure.

Thank you!
Bill

If you're using screw-on flexible supply hoses from the shut off valves
to the faucet, I'm not sure you're supposed to use tape.
You are not.

On Thu, 19 Oct 2017 09:46:07 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Bobby Axelrod wrote:
On 10/19/17 9:07 AM, Bill wrote:
My new bathroom faucet may arrive in the mail today. This will be my
first repair of this nature and I have a question. Thank you for any
comments!

Q: Since applying the supply lines to the faucet seems like the most
difficult part of the job, why wouldn't someone push the supply lines
through the top of the vanity and attach them to the faucet first
(with plumbers tape, of course)? The plastic nuts, which secure the
faucet to the vanity, could be slipped over the supply lines first
for instance, and attached where they belong afterward. I ask this
question, because the process I described doesn't appear to be the
normal procedure.

Thank you!
Bill

If you're using screw-on flexible supply hoses from the shut off
valves to the faucet, I'm not sure you're supposed to use tape.

We are talking about "teflon-tape", right? I don't see how it could hurt.

It is not required because the threads do not do the sealing, and tape
COULD interfere with proper seating of the rubber seal. DO NOT use
teflon tape on self-seal supply hoses. If they are standard pipe
thread fittings, use tape.

replying to Bill, Iggy wrote:
A valid question and I've pre-attached the flexible and even straight-shot
rigid supply lines whenever possible. However, they do sometimes get in the
way and make a basin wrench more difficult to use, because you can't see
through the supply lines to know if you're turning what you hope you are.

Where it really becomes a problem is with the cabinet size and style. You
don't get many view angles in a 24" cabinet and same goes for cabinets that
have a center stile between the doors. Wall Hung and Pedestal sinks can be
quite tight and having the supply lines on can interfere with a basin wrench's
use, on the handle end. Remember, Supply Valves are usually in the way too
and, commonly, even the drain pipe from the wall or floor.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...n-1147837-.htm

Iggy wrote:
replying to Bill, Iggy wrote:
A valid question and I've pre-attached the flexible and even
straight-shot
rigid supply lines whenever possible. However, they do sometimes get
in the
way and make a basin wrench more difficult to use, because you can't see
through the supply lines to know if you're turning what you hope you are.

Where it really becomes a problem is with the cabinet size and style. You
don't get many view angles in a 24" cabinet and same goes for cabinets
that
have a center stile between the doors. Wall Hung and Pedestal sinks
can be
quite tight and having the supply lines on can interfere with a basin
wrench's
use, on the handle end. Remember, Supply Valves are usually in the way
too
and, commonly, even the drain pipe from the wall or floor.

Yes, things are tight enough under there that the less time I have to be
there, the better I'll like it!

On Thu, 19 Oct 2017 16:19:05 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Iggy wrote:
replying to Bill, Iggy wrote:
A valid question and I've pre-attached the flexible and even
straight-shot
rigid supply lines whenever possible. However, they do sometimes get
in the
way and make a basin wrench more difficult to use, because you can't see
through the supply lines to know if you're turning what you hope you are.

Where it really becomes a problem is with the cabinet size and style. You
don't get many view angles in a 24" cabinet and same goes for cabinets
that
have a center stile between the doors. Wall Hung and Pedestal sinks
can be
quite tight and having the supply lines on can interfere with a basin
wrench's
use, on the handle end. Remember, Supply Valves are usually in the way
too
and, commonly, even the drain pipe from the wall or floor.

Yes, things are tight enough under there that the less time I have to be
there, the better I'll like it!
All the more reason to use the flex hose connections. They use a
rubber gasket and you can get them for 3/8" compression or 1/2"
threaded connections in any combination. Get the appropriate ones for
your setup and off you go.

wrote:
On Thu, 19 Oct 2017 16:19:05 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Iggy wrote:
replying to Bill, Iggy wrote:
A valid question and I've pre-attached the flexible and even
straight-shot
rigid supply lines whenever possible. However, they do sometimes get
in the
way and make a basin wrench more difficult to use, because you can't see
through the supply lines to know if you're turning what you hope you are.
Where it really becomes a problem is with the cabinet size and style. You
don't get many view angles in a 24" cabinet and same goes for cabinets
that
have a center stile between the doors. Wall Hung and Pedestal sinks
can be
quite tight and having the supply lines on can interfere with a basin
wrench's
use, on the handle end. Remember, Supply Valves are usually in the way
too
and, commonly, even the drain pipe from the wall or floor.

Yes, things are tight enough under there that the less time I have to be
there, the better I'll like it!
All the more reason to use the flex hose connections. They use a
rubber gasket and you can get them for 3/8" compression or 1/2"
threaded connections in any combination. Get the appropriate ones for
your setup and off you go.

Okay, you've talked me into it. Home Depot should give you a
commission. My reason for not replacing them, was that removing the
old ones runs the risk of conceivably damaging the shut-off valves, but
that doesn't seem like a good excuse--unless I somehow damage the
shut-off valves, and in that case I'll be sorry!
Hold the shut off valve with a wrench (or anything?) while removing the
hose?

Bill

On Thu, 19 Oct 2017 16:57:27 -0400, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 19 Oct 2017 16:19:05 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Iggy wrote:
replying to Bill, Iggy wrote:
A valid question and I've pre-attached the flexible and even
straight-shot
rigid supply lines whenever possible. However, they do sometimes get
in the
way and make a basin wrench more difficult to use, because you can't see
through the supply lines to know if you're turning what you hope you are.
Where it really becomes a problem is with the cabinet size and style. You
don't get many view angles in a 24" cabinet and same goes for cabinets
that
have a center stile between the doors. Wall Hung and Pedestal sinks
can be
quite tight and having the supply lines on can interfere with a basin
wrench's
use, on the handle end. Remember, Supply Valves are usually in the way
too
and, commonly, even the drain pipe from the wall or floor.

Yes, things are tight enough under there that the less time I have to be
there, the better I'll like it!
All the more reason to use the flex hose connections. They use a
rubber gasket and you can get them for 3/8" compression or 1/2"
threaded connections in any combination. Get the appropriate ones for
your setup and off you go.

Okay, you've talked me into it. Home Depot should give you a
commission. My reason for not replacing them, was that removing the
old ones runs the risk of conceivably damaging the shut-off valves, but
that doesn't seem like a good excuse--unless I somehow damage the
shut-off valves, and in that case I'll be sorry!
Hold the shut off valve with a wrench (or anything?) while removing the
hose?

Bill

Those hose connections can be finger tight and still work. I usually
get them as tight as I can with my old arthritic fingers then put
another 1/4-1/2 turn with a wrench but that is still not "break the
pipe off" tight.

On Thu, 19 Oct 2017 16:27:44 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 19 Oct 2017 16:19:05 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Iggy wrote:
replying to Bill, Iggy wrote:
A valid question and I've pre-attached the flexible and even
straight-shot
rigid supply lines whenever possible. However, they do sometimes get
in the
way and make a basin wrench more difficult to use, because you can't see
through the supply lines to know if you're turning what you hope you are.

Where it really becomes a problem is with the cabinet size and style. You
don't get many view angles in a 24" cabinet and same goes for cabinets
that
have a center stile between the doors. Wall Hung and Pedestal sinks
can be
quite tight and having the supply lines on can interfere with a basin
wrench's
use, on the handle end. Remember, Supply Valves are usually in the way
too
and, commonly, even the drain pipe from the wall or floor.

Yes, things are tight enough under there that the less time I have to be
there, the better I'll like it!
All the more reason to use the flex hose connections. They use a
rubber gasket and you can get them for 3/8" compression or 1/2"
threaded connections in any combination. Get the appropriate ones for
your setup and off you go.
But if you have 1/2" threaded connections you can't pull the mounting
nuts on after the hose - for sure. With some other solutions it MIGHT
be possible.

****. If you can save a step with no ill effects do it.

On Thu, 19 Oct 2017 16:57:27 -0400, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 19 Oct 2017 16:19:05 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Iggy wrote:
replying to Bill, Iggy wrote:
A valid question and I've pre-attached the flexible and even
straight-shot
rigid supply lines whenever possible. However, they do sometimes get
in the
way and make a basin wrench more difficult to use, because you can't see
through the supply lines to know if you're turning what you hope you are.
Where it really becomes a problem is with the cabinet size and style. You
don't get many view angles in a 24" cabinet and same goes for cabinets
that
have a center stile between the doors. Wall Hung and Pedestal sinks
can be
quite tight and having the supply lines on can interfere with a basin
wrench's
use, on the handle end. Remember, Supply Valves are usually in the way
too
and, commonly, even the drain pipe from the wall or floor.

Yes, things are tight enough under there that the less time I have to be
there, the better I'll like it!
All the more reason to use the flex hose connections. They use a
rubber gasket and you can get them for 3/8" compression or 1/2"
threaded connections in any combination. Get the appropriate ones for
your setup and off you go.

Okay, you've talked me into it. Home Depot should give you a
commission. My reason for not replacing them, was that removing the
old ones runs the risk of conceivably damaging the shut-off valves, but
that doesn't seem like a good excuse--unless I somehow damage the
shut-off valves, and in that case I'll be sorry!
Hold the shut off valve with a wrench (or anything?) while removing the
hose?

Bill
Yes.

"Bill" wrote in message
news
wrote:

Hold the shut off valve with a wrench (or anything?) while removing the
hose?

Yes, if needed to prevent the stop from wracking

wrote:
But if you have 1/2" threaded connections you can't pull the mounting
nuts on after the hose - for sure. With some other solutions it MIGHT
be possible.

With my (Moen) configuration, it would have been possible--the 2
fastener bolts and the 2 places where you attach hoses are separate and
distinct. I could have attached the hoses before I dropped the unit
through the top, and doing so would have saved time. With plumbers putty
already under the template, my mind wasn't thinking that far ahead.

Highlights:

-I dropped the first of the two new faucet fastener nuts (not the
plastic kind) and it fell below the floor of the vanity, into the abyss.
This 15-cent nut turned the repair into a two day affair. I knew better
than to work on Sunday evening...

-Putting teflon tape on the threads above your head lying on your back
with both elbows inside the vanity, is sort of challenging. The static
electricity, didn't help. The circumstances make you appreciate
whatever peace and quiet you can get. I mean, the dog was worried about
me and having my arm licked didn't really help.

-I've got new hoses now too (as was suggested here). I am using 20"
hoses to span 6" to avoid stressing the hose. It was either 12" or 20"
(at Home Depot), and adding a loop to the 12" one sort of stressed it.
I don't wish to start a discussion about it, but Home Depot doesn't sell
stainless connector hose--they sell BrassCraft (silver) braided-polymer
hose. I went back to the store, after realizing I hadn't actually bought
stainless hoses, and the salesman told me they were stainless, but I
assured him otherwise. He encouraged me towards the 20" hoses, so we
both taught each other something.

In summary, I have no more hot water drip, and the new 1-handle faucet
is nice and smooth. It works much better than if I had paid someone else
to install it, and I am much more savvy about what is under the sink!
Thanks for your help (all)!

Cheers,
Bill

On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 11:38:33 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
wrote:
But if you have 1/2" threaded connections you can't pull the mounting
nuts on after the hose - for sure. With some other solutions it MIGHT
be possible.

With my (Moen) configuration, it would have been possible--the 2
fastener bolts and the 2 places where you attach hoses are separate and
distinct. I could have attached the hoses before I dropped the unit
through the top, and doing so would have saved time. With plumbers putty
already under the template, my mind wasn't thinking that far ahead.

Highlights:

-I dropped the first of the two new faucet fastener nuts (not the
plastic kind) and it fell below the floor of the vanity, into the abyss.
This 15-cent nut turned the repair into a two day affair. I knew better
than to work on Sunday evening...

-Putting teflon tape on the threads above your head lying on your back
with both elbows inside the vanity, is sort of challenging. The static
electricity, didn't help. The circumstances make you appreciate
whatever peace and quiet you can get. I mean, the dog was worried about
me and having my arm licked didn't really help.

Teflon tape normally isn't required on the hose ends where they connect
to the faucet, unless it's some unusual hose/faucet. The seal does not
rely on the threads being sealed. What did the instructions say?

trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 11:38:33 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
wrote:
But if you have 1/2" threaded connections you can't pull the mounting
nuts on after the hose - for sure. With some other solutions it MIGHT
be possible.
With my (Moen) configuration, it would have been possible--the 2
fastener bolts and the 2 places where you attach hoses are separate and
distinct. I could have attached the hoses before I dropped the unit
through the top, and doing so would have saved time. With plumbers putty
already under the template, my mind wasn't thinking that far ahead.

Highlights:

-I dropped the first of the two new faucet fastener nuts (not the
plastic kind) and it fell below the floor of the vanity, into the abyss.
This 15-cent nut turned the repair into a two day affair. I knew better
than to work on Sunday evening...

-Putting teflon tape on the threads above your head lying on your back
with both elbows inside the vanity, is sort of challenging. The static
electricity, didn't help. The circumstances make you appreciate
whatever peace and quiet you can get. I mean, the dog was worried about
me and having my arm licked didn't really help.
Teflon tape normally isn't required on the hose ends where they connect
to the faucet, unless it's some unusual hose/faucet. The seal does not
rely on the threads being sealed. What did the instructions say?

The instructions for the faucet suggested teflon tape (might be handy
for the installation), without going into any detail. I consider that
the directions that came with the faucet were deficient. For instance,
towards the end you are asked to "remove the aerator", but the
directions don't direct you as to how. I tried for 10 minutes before I
used the Internet to learn that it wasn't a "with your bare hands" sort
of sub-task.

I didn't see the downside to putting tape on the (top) threaded
connection (1/2" PID). I did not use any, at the compression
connection. What does "PID" stand for (even wikipedia doesn't know)?

Bill

Bill wrote:
In summary, I have no more hot water drip, and the new 1-handle faucet
is nice and smooth. It works much better than if I had paid someone
else to install it, and I am much more savvy about what is under the
sink! Thanks for your help (all)!


Strange, I look back now as I exit the room, and, without "the drip",
the faucet almost seems broken! I find myself watching for it to drip!
Strange phenomenon.

Certainly more tasks await. Too many more (ha!)